My first legit aeg was a p90, I did not expect you to pull one out and shove that motor in there. I was happy, nostalgic, and overall just happy my fave aeg got some love
Things i have learned from watching resourceful, good techs is that: - R-Hop almost never works - Expensive hop up units and barrels almost always are snake oil and the stock ones perform better
Always wondered why anyone considers using a random piece of rubber they found somewhere and glueing it to their barrel would perform any better than a real hop rubber designed and engineered to produce consistent friction properties across a range of temperatures and velocities
Yo negative airsoft I genuinely watch your videos for entertainment when I’m not looking for tech videos. Like when I’m eating cereal you already know I’m watching negative
Damn; the G28 has some really bad internals. But the motor is something else. Like you said; an exelent option if you want to upgrade the performance by swapping only one part. Great video... and a happy, productive and fun new year!
Two part comment, mostly my own personal rants but this vid gives me an outlet for it. I agree on how insane the prices for externals versus what you get on the inside are for most of our "vaunted" brands in the community. Take LCT for example. I have a RPK by them, and it has been a lemon since I got it years ago. Stripped Allen screws holding the barrel by default, Allen screws all over the gearbox shell (most which have stripped over the times I've had it apart). The nozzle does nothing for airseal, yet LCT got it in their minds to make it longer than aftermarket ak short nozzles but also shorter than the long nozzles. Few folks say "you just gotta shave the tappet plate with a short one or grind down the nozzle" but that should not be the case for such an expensive replica. One should be able to use aftermarket parts without fear of proprietary issues for models that take your standard v2 or v3. Meanwhile my decade old dboys gearbox shells and bodies, my newer Cyma 40d ak105 all take everything just fine. Onto the p90 and motor testing bit. Have to say, as someone who wasted far too much money rebuilding a tm p90's gearbox from the grave, giving it a mtrigger with a gate nanohard mosfet, my usual 12 or 13:1 gears and zci 22 tpa high torque motor combo, etc., that motor you put in alone made that chicom p90 sound better with the trigger than all my effort combined. Does not help that my work was in vain because for some god forsaken reason I cannot get the trigger to function properly no matter what I do. I have gotten to the point where I just do not care for new releases or to even buy another replica. I am so sick of internals not being passable or rectifiable by my hands alone. If a company out there started selling full external ak model kits without any allen screws, without any proprietary bullshit, and without costing a kidney, I would be their happiest customer.
Lmao, yo this guy is funny AF! I Love how brutally honest he is. And that "la la la la" miniclip for the motor testing had me rolling! 😂 His choice of music is perfect for this type of shit too 🤙🏼
Having never seen one if your videos, I don't know whether to laugh or cry. I don't think I've ever heard someone sound so angry in the first 5 minutes of a video
Have you tried a heavier piston? I have a very reputable friend who has a weighted piston in his DMRs and it boosts power with heavier BBs. I am not bullshitting you, the heavier piston reduces the power spike so less of it gets sprayed out of the hop unit. Also, is there a chance that the cylinder had a larger ID or some shit???
fantastic. and i cannot believe i am saying this, but i need to get hold of an L1A1, wit, its not for airsoft, its for historical reenactment. have an epic new year.
Jesus, stress testing that P90 could have ended in disaster if any of the magic smoke had got in your wine. Oh, and the perfect "mortor" (sic) to go with one of those budget Galaxy-rebranded MP5Ks is a budget Big Dragon M140 High Torque, which cost me all of $28.67 delivered to the UK from AliExpress. Still got that wank V3 trigger, but otherwise so much fun in CQB, as a sniper-sidearm, or even a woodland primary, although in that last case you HAVE to dual wield them.
8:48 The tappet plate flag breaks because you release the Spring while the gearbox is in Phase 3 (Piston has moved to the further back & nozzle has been released) :)))
There’s no way you will heat up a brushless motor without ant heavy load. I used to run heavy motors on drones on 6s lipos and never get hot unless pid tuning was too aggressive.
Go glad the US Army made the colors uniform for the M110A1. That mustard color is gone from the receiver. The M110A1 is a G28 with a mlok handguard with rail segments, a mlok bipod attachment, canted iron sights, a 1-8x short dot scope, and a qd suppressor. So basically everything you need. Only problem. Proprietary mags. This is why the Marine Corps and US Navy are still sticking with the SR25/MK11.
Love your videos 👍 question for you- what do you think is the best widely available smg currently? I want something with good externals and decent Internals so I can upgrade it without dealing with the bs 😂
Could we elaborate on "It killed your gun"? in what way? Lipo/wiring burnt out? gears stripped? arl eaten alive? piston eaten alive? Mosfet blew up?....
My XCR and Scar both had problems. But my Bronze 416 still hasn't had any problems yet. Probably my most reliable AEG, and I paid $250 for it. VFC can still be shit tho, just look at my Scar-L
I‘ve got a question to the warhead motor. I have a fairly stock Ares gearbox and I‘m using 3s Li-ions, will the standard version not blow up my gearbox?
Hi negative is there anytime you would recommend an r hop. I recently built a well type 96 fulled it up with action army parts and a lapped rhop’d barrel from red hornet. It fires ok not that I’m that experienced or have used it all that much. That being said my lad has a ssg24 and I think they are both pretty similar. I know rhop’s and novritsch ain’t your thing and you’re probably gunna call me a twat but then it’s nothing my wife doesn’t call me daily.
Ow god, hope the gearbox hold the power... mine broke after 500 shots. I have now a retro arms gearbox. 250mm 6.03 barrel. Stock hop chamber M150 spring 435fps (1.7 ish joule) on .2s hop of. Hop set for 0.4s it will joulecreep. Hop set and ith .4s it does 2.2 joule. I had 450fps with a cut m130 spring and 300mm 6.03 barrel. Dont have airseal problems like this one 🙈 love the externals. Fucking hate the stock internals...
Can you check the dia. of the shaft support tower where it fits into the bottom hole in the gearbox, the ones I have are only 9mm and all other motors are 9.5mm and this makes the Warhead a very loose fit in the hole in the bottom of all my V2 gearboxes
@@JpmonstaGaming well for a gun with a V2.5 cylinder (at least that’s what I thought, that’s why I wanted one) it’s a pretty dumb move by VFC lol. Maybe they went downhill.. my 10 yo SSR is 👌🏼
Both nice looking rifles, but your's is better Edit:. Points deducted from this 417? For the upper receiver and selector switch not matching the rest of the gun
I've heard but don't know if it's true but I've heard longer barrels and full cylinders prefer wide bore barrels over tight bore and I only metion it because I know how wide bores work and it kind of makes sense, and I heard it from a tech at my local shop who's one of the people I trust for information on AEG's
That’s completely misinformation. With longer barrels, you need more volume, with wide bores you are always losing volume. With 509+ mm barrels and full cylinders you are already very close to under voluming your gun (this is for aeg’s, gbbr/hpa can basically go to a barrel of infinity since no one really makes a barrel that would be so long that would be under voluming, along with the fact that it would be stupidly hard to play with)
@@opairsoft8100 yeah but with a tight bore the bb is riding the top of the barrel which causes friction and slows the bb down and a wide bore is designed to have a cushion if air around the bb so it's not creating friction and the longer the barrel the more friction it creates
@@isaacshively6705 the wide bore theory doesn’t really work since no matter what the bb rides the top of the barrel because of the hop up or lrb if it’s old school. Only time it would float would be with a none hop up/lrb barrel, but at that point range is horrific
Why don’t you like edgi barrels and r hops? Never used an edgi barrel since they’re overpriced but they have really good surface finishing (~7microns) and bore quality. But compared to every hop up configuration I’ve tried R hops have provided superior performance, esp noticeable with BBs heavier than 0.30g. I’ve used multiple types of flat hops/nubs, stock configurations from multiple manufacturers, as well as aftermarket hop ups such as maple leaf/reaps/Prometheus etc. and I’ve never gone back after R hopping my guns.
because the majority of r hop installs are insanely picky on bbs, entirely inconsistent and generally not worth the hassle for an extra 3m of range. combined with pisstaking wankers like UA selling shit systems to people as gold plated gods gift.
R hops depend so much on installation, they take far more time to fit well and they depend on so many variables that they arent worth the work for him to fit for customers. If yiu can do it yourself and do it Well AND the hop design and barrel length means it will benefit they can be great. They aren't a panacea
@@jediknight1294 I do agree with you, but I have done simple S- hop style "R-hops" for customers and friends using something analogous to Sugru, but my own mix of 100% silicone caulk and other ingredients to increase the durometer ; and its really easy to Install. They do need 24 hours to cure though, but they work incredibly well when done right. For the actual amount/time of labor put into it, it's definitely worth it imo, even for customers. Perfect fitment for any barrel window profile can be achieved too. Only downside from my experience is the 24 cure time, but that can be a non-issue with some prep
@@EuthanasiaSUPREME the issue is consistency and tuning time. To get a S/Rhop that is better than a good standard hop rubber requires a fair bit of tuning time sitting and testing it and if yiu are doing it professionally it's labour intensive and eats time. Plus of course you are tuning it to a single bb weight.
@@jediknight1294 I haven’t had that in my experience. Sometimes there’s a break-in period with S-hop style set ups of like 100-500 rounds, but other than that, I’ve personally never had any issues with them, and only positive experiences compared to every other hop up I’ve tried. They’re easy to set up and I literally have the same exact 400mm PDI barrel in a 2-3J vsr10 and my 1.6J SAI GRY with the same S-hop style patch and exact same M-nub - and they shoot different weight BBs with no other extra turning, other than the hop up dial of course. For reference I’m shooting 0.28-0.32g with the GRY and the VSR is shooting 0.45g-0.48gs. But idk everyone’s experience is different and I have my biases. But what works best for you is all that matters.
Yup, all the guns I'm working on currently are short shaft & Warhead haven't any short shaft to sample yet but as soon as I can find an excuse for a new warhead video, I'll do it.
After getting a 11.1 Li-Ion battery, my V2 gearbox cracked and blew the front out, in the process stripped the spur gear and ripped the piston head from the piston. Should I get replacement parts (and which are recommended for a 130M spring and a SHS High Torque motor) or should I just get a whole new gun?
It really depends on how much you like your externals and their quality. I've blown the front of my old Specna gearbox on SA-H02 with a Prometheus MS135SP spring, but besides the gearbox, the tapet plate, and the piston, there was no additional damage, so I've just repacked everything into another old-gen Specna gearbox and am now using ASG M95 since it's built to be a CQB gun. If you can afford one, Retro Arms gearboxes are built like tanks, but there are some compatibility issues due to tight tolerances.
@@Koscum Funny enough, it's also a Specna gearbox. I will probably save up for a Retro Arms gearbox that you mentioned it. Will SHS 32:1 gears be okay? I see they are on the cheaper side (25€) and I don't really want to spend 80+€ on something like Prometheus unless it's really worth it.
@@NickTronic96 I've yet to destroy SHS gears. I have 13:1 in my Specna and 16:1 in reserve with several sets of 16s and 18s installed in friends' guns. The only issue I ever had with them is that they didn't mesh perfectly with ASG motors, but I kind of blame ASG's pinion for that. My custom RA build actually has Modify gear set because I wanted to test them out - they perform quite well, but are overpriced and buying an SHS set and shimming it properly is almost always worth the time and effort investment. As far as the gear ratio is concerned, I'm not a fan of running kind-of-high-but-not-really-high-torque motors with high-torque gears because you get a quite sluggish trigger response which can be a bit of a pain in the arse if you run semi-only with on pre-cocking. On the other hand, that thing will pull any spring and will have no issues cycling a fully tensioned piston. As @Gear Parts mentioned, 18:1 will perform just fine with SHS HT and M130 shouldn't cause it any issues. Also, about the gearbox, did you have an old E&C one or the new Orion? 'Cause Orion is kind of..... not very good.
When ever schmucks come to me with “compression issues” Their shitty flat hop job always is the reason for their 100 FPS loss. And those things are designed to be worn out so why would you super glue one. I removed all r hops and flat hops even from my own shit a while ago. I use regular backings Prometheus purple is my go too
I have the exact same problem with my cyma m14 as you're decribing with the VFC - power is spot on with a 0.20g but significantly drops with heavier bbs. Dunno how to fix it without a fat spring which will put me way over the fps limit on a 0.20g
That sounds a lot like a volume ratio issue. From what I can see in the Negative's video, ~400 was the result with a strong spring, a long inner barrel and a cylinder with a badly matched port. Do you have a no-port cylinder in your gearbox?
@@Koscum 500mm barrel, type 0 cylinder and good air seal. Only thing I can think to change is a heavier piston head as that apparently helps with joule creep
![[UNBOXING][REVIEW] WARHEAD BASE Brushless Motor - Compared and reviewed - 2 aegs died in the making!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zCbFVZ8i-Ns/mqdefault.jpg)
Legendary content right there,and at 42 mins of it,merry f’in Christmas 🎄💪🏼
flannel daddy and negative daddy both upload on the same day? Looks like the toilet is gonna be occupied for a while
dude, i mixed them up and sat on the shitter during negative and wanked during flannel daddy... omg my life is upside down rn!
Are you talking about Garand Thumb?
@@michaelbirchall2247 yeah 😁
Genuinely taking a shit as I watch this right now!
The real flannel daddy is T.Rex
My first legit aeg was a p90, I did not expect you to pull one out and shove that motor in there. I was happy, nostalgic, and overall just happy my fave aeg got some love
Things i have learned from watching resourceful, good techs is that:
- R-Hop almost never works
- Expensive hop up units and barrels almost always are snake oil and the stock ones perform better
Always wondered why anyone considers using a random piece of rubber they found somewhere and glueing it to their barrel would perform any better than a real hop rubber designed and engineered to produce consistent friction properties across a range of temperatures and velocities
Yo negative airsoft I genuinely watch your videos for entertainment when I’m not looking for tech videos. Like when I’m eating cereal you already know I’m watching negative
Damn; the G28 has some really bad internals. But the motor is something else. Like you said; an exelent option if you want to upgrade the performance by swapping only one part. Great video... and a happy, productive and fun new year!
Two part comment, mostly my own personal rants but this vid gives me an outlet for it. I agree on how insane the prices for externals versus what you get on the inside are for most of our "vaunted" brands in the community. Take LCT for example. I have a RPK by them, and it has been a lemon since I got it years ago. Stripped Allen screws holding the barrel by default, Allen screws all over the gearbox shell (most which have stripped over the times I've had it apart). The nozzle does nothing for airseal, yet LCT got it in their minds to make it longer than aftermarket ak short nozzles but also shorter than the long nozzles. Few folks say "you just gotta shave the tappet plate with a short one or grind down the nozzle" but that should not be the case for such an expensive replica. One should be able to use aftermarket parts without fear of proprietary issues for models that take your standard v2 or v3. Meanwhile my decade old dboys gearbox shells and bodies, my newer Cyma 40d ak105 all take everything just fine.
Onto the p90 and motor testing bit. Have to say, as someone who wasted far too much money rebuilding a tm p90's gearbox from the grave, giving it a mtrigger with a gate nanohard mosfet, my usual 12 or 13:1 gears and zci 22 tpa high torque motor combo, etc., that motor you put in alone made that chicom p90 sound better with the trigger than all my effort combined. Does not help that my work was in vain because for some god forsaken reason I cannot get the trigger to function properly no matter what I do.
I have gotten to the point where I just do not care for new releases or to even buy another replica. I am so sick of internals not being passable or rectifiable by my hands alone. If a company out there started selling full external ak model kits without any allen screws, without any proprietary bullshit, and without costing a kidney, I would be their happiest customer.
God bless you for taking that job with that gearbox
Damn that motor is smarter than a vfc MOSFET
The fact he didn’t have you paint match that upper hurts my heart bucko!
American negative airsoft sounded amazing! A whole episode like that would probably fuck your throat though. It was still a great impression!!!
Lmao, yo this guy is funny AF! I Love how brutally honest he is.
And that "la la la la" miniclip for the motor testing had me rolling! 😂
His choice of music is perfect for this type of shit too 🤙🏼
a 42 minute video! Barry get the lube!
Love the look of that G28, I like my sh*t to come in different shades of doo-doo
That scream is the best thing to ever happen on this channel
Another wonderful video. Can't wait for part 3.
Having never seen one if your videos, I don't know whether to laugh or cry. I don't think I've ever heard someone sound so angry in the first 5 minutes of a video
@33:37 “hoo-hoo-hoo-hoooooo! Fuck me, said tigger” legendary 😂🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
I like you're m4 it looks nice and clean with the knights armament rail.
For those wondering the Warhead motors are gonna be $130 US and they have a retailer in Silicon Valley California
Also one of them is a FUCKING 48K!!!! If it’s torquey enough I’ll throw one in my 10:1 DSG and have a ~150 RPS gun
@@whitmills6691 uh no full auto in buildings maybe?
@@alz9326 don’t worry, full auto is reserved for rentals only
@@whitmills6691 ih yeah fs fs
Aloha Negative Airsoft, great morals! Love your videos.
🌴😎🤙
Love the rail covers on the Knights armament ar.
Have you tried a heavier piston?
I have a very reputable friend who has a weighted piston in his DMRs and it boosts power with heavier BBs.
I am not bullshitting you, the heavier piston reduces the power spike so less of it gets sprayed out of the hop unit.
Also, is there a chance that the cylinder had a larger ID or some shit???
fantastic. and i cannot believe i am saying this, but i need to get hold of an L1A1, wit, its not for airsoft, its for historical reenactment. have an epic new year.
RIP ASG Lipo. We barely knew thee.
That motor is insane, it made standard cheapos sound like DOG'S, i bet its better than most and will last longer too
“Dump valve wanker” 😂😂😂😂 stitches
Hell yea man, bodycount kicks ass
I saw that Mp5 in the flesh. It's was fucking mental and cool as...
Jesus, stress testing that P90 could have ended in disaster if any of the magic smoke had got in your wine.
Oh, and the perfect "mortor" (sic) to go with one of those budget Galaxy-rebranded MP5Ks is a budget Big Dragon M140 High Torque, which cost me all of $28.67 delivered to the UK from AliExpress. Still got that wank V3 trigger, but otherwise so much fun in CQB, as a sniper-sidearm, or even a woodland primary, although in that last case you HAVE to dual wield them.
This man is the Gordon Ramsy of airsoft ngl
8:48 The tappet plate flag breaks because you release the Spring while the gearbox is in Phase 3 (Piston has moved to the further back & nozzle has been released) :)))
What do you know a broken tappet in a VFC, strange
Blue polymer hop chamber looks like an SHS. Nicest chambers out there for less than 10€.
Has a molded nub on hop arm though :-(
@@xtairsoft That's an easy fix if you don't like the concave spacer. Not ideal, not a deal breaker either.
finally another video! and its a longer 1 too! good shit
MEGA DRIVE ACID SPIT!!
also why don't you like rhop? what option besides rhop is viable for you
16:07 nearly spat out my drink laughing here
There’s no way you will heat up a brushless motor without ant heavy load. I used to run heavy motors on drones on 6s lipos and never get hot unless pid tuning was too aggressive.
Go glad the US Army made the colors uniform for the M110A1. That mustard color is gone from the receiver. The M110A1 is a G28 with a mlok handguard with rail segments, a mlok bipod attachment, canted iron sights, a 1-8x short dot scope, and a qd suppressor. So basically everything you need. Only problem. Proprietary mags. This is why the Marine Corps and US Navy are still sticking with the SR25/MK11.
*casually quaffing a nice red whilst burning out an AEG...*
Love your videos 👍
question for you- what do you think is the best widely available smg currently?
I want something with good externals and decent Internals so I can upgrade it without dealing with the bs 😂
Could we elaborate on "It killed your gun"? in what way? Lipo/wiring burnt out? gears stripped? arl eaten alive? piston eaten alive? Mosfet blew up?....
Megafuckedaids
@@NegativeAirsoftTech it happens to the best of them
@@NegativeAirsoftTech Yeeah Okaaay... Look forward to testing them myself when released. Cheers.
Yes! the RCP90. Do you have one with that same colour scheme from Goldeneye?
well that gives me an idea for my P90
Underrated channel
You're like the Chef Ramsey of Airsoft.
New g28 !! Hope it's cheaper than the vfc who is making it and will they be making a gbb version??
Have a 417 DMR with a retro arms v2.2 setup at 160m/s and maple Leaf works like a clock!
He's the Gordon Ramsay of airsoft.
My XCR and Scar both had problems. But my Bronze 416 still hasn't had any problems yet. Probably my most reliable AEG, and I paid $250 for it. VFC can still be shit tho, just look at my Scar-L
Maybe I'm just dumb and oblivious, but how is the torque measured with these motors and how does it relate to brushed motor TPA?
I can’t believe that p90 survived
watchu think about ICS, overall
As always... It's better to be pissed OFF than pissed ON -- errm so to speak!
R. Kelly didn't think so
Did you radius the gearbox? It will help reduce the risk of cracking the front of the gearbox
This Chinese factory you mentioned, is it double bell?, I believe you said it’s alright
I have one of these and it was pretty shit in terms of power. Dropped an f2 in it and it’s amazing now.
When you pulled out my P90 ! How would you mod it , if you had not have had that motor
I just won one in a competition. Happy days 👍
So are you saying that a fancy MOSFET with precocking etc is NOT compatible with one of these?
I fear no man but that thing it scares me
I‘ve got a question to the warhead motor.
I have a fairly stock Ares gearbox and I‘m using 3s Li-ions, will the standard version not blow up my gearbox?
May have said this in the video, but any idea when the motors are going public? Can’t find anything on the warhead website
those motorsare realy interesting
i have a Q: how do it fare against the old systema magmum motor? massive thank you for your videos from sthlm sweden
Hi negative is there anytime you would recommend an r hop. I recently built a well type 96 fulled it up with action army parts and a lapped rhop’d barrel from red hornet. It fires ok not that I’m that experienced or have used it all that much. That being said my lad has a ssg24 and I think they are both pretty similar. I know rhop’s and novritsch ain’t your thing and you’re probably gunna call me a twat but then it’s nothing my wife doesn’t call me daily.
Nice motor.
Just out of curiosity, what don’t you like about r hop?
Vfc released a new avalon for 500. I’m ready for negative to tear into it.
Ow god, hope the gearbox hold the power... mine broke after 500 shots.
I have now a retro arms gearbox.
250mm 6.03 barrel.
Stock hop chamber
M150 spring
435fps (1.7 ish joule) on .2s hop of.
Hop set for 0.4s it will joulecreep.
Hop set and ith .4s it does 2.2 joule.
I had 450fps with a cut m130 spring and 300mm 6.03 barrel.
Dont have airseal problems like this one 🙈 love the externals. Fucking hate the stock internals...
Can you check the dia. of the shaft support tower where it fits into the bottom hole in the gearbox, the ones I have are only 9mm and all other motors are 9.5mm and this makes the Warhead a very loose fit in the hole in the bottom of all my V2 gearboxes
So would you buy them Luke as you wouldnt treat your rifs in that way and did you say the retail is £120
LMAO A PORTED CYLINDER! Probably “upgraded’ one
nah thats the stock VFC one, has the same in my HK417
@@JpmonstaGaming well for a gun with a V2.5 cylinder (at least that’s what I thought, that’s why I wanted one) it’s a pretty dumb move by VFC lol. Maybe they went downhill.. my 10 yo SSR is 👌🏼
you should "test" it with 13.1 gears and a 11.1v itd sound wicked for a second or two
I missed some good LMGs in these tests, it could be an awesome motor on a support gun, or maybe too wanker?
They should get Sam from KOA to test them haha
TRUE !
4:09 Shit on it all you want, but that electric gearbox QD removal is SLICK
It's been a wile since I heard the trololo song
looking forward to the short version tests. Get one in an AK74u.
Both nice looking rifles, but your's is better
Edit:. Points deducted from this 417? For the upper receiver and selector switch not matching the rest of the gun
I'm putting this into my SVD !
I'm going to be cutting one down & testing in an SVD... it's so fucking janky as standard.
@@NegativeAirsoftTech especially the internal on the Cyma, but it’s better to destroy a cheap internal than an expensive Real Sword one
Was that a Smith & Wesson reciever on your rif with the Knights rail?
Yup
@@NegativeAirsoftTech beautiful piece
I've heard but don't know if it's true but I've heard longer barrels and full cylinders prefer wide bore barrels over tight bore and I only metion it because I know how wide bores work and it kind of makes sense, and I heard it from a tech at my local shop who's one of the people I trust for information on AEG's
That’s completely misinformation. With longer barrels, you need more volume, with wide bores you are always losing volume. With 509+ mm barrels and full cylinders you are already very close to under voluming your gun (this is for aeg’s, gbbr/hpa can basically go to a barrel of infinity since no one really makes a barrel that would be so long that would be under voluming, along with the fact that it would be stupidly hard to play with)
@@opairsoft8100 yeah but with a tight bore the bb is riding the top of the barrel which causes friction and slows the bb down and a wide bore is designed to have a cushion if air around the bb so it's not creating friction and the longer the barrel the more friction it creates
@@isaacshively6705 the wide bore theory doesn’t really work since no matter what the bb rides the top of the barrel because of the hop up or lrb if it’s old school. Only time it would float would be with a none hop up/lrb barrel, but at that point range is horrific
Why don’t you like edgi barrels and r hops? Never used an edgi barrel since they’re overpriced but they have really good surface finishing (~7microns) and bore quality. But compared to every hop up configuration I’ve tried R hops have provided superior performance, esp noticeable with BBs heavier than 0.30g. I’ve used multiple types of flat hops/nubs, stock configurations from multiple manufacturers, as well as aftermarket hop ups such as maple leaf/reaps/Prometheus etc. and I’ve never gone back after R hopping my guns.
because the majority of r hop installs are insanely picky on bbs, entirely inconsistent and generally not worth the hassle for an extra 3m of range. combined with pisstaking wankers like UA selling shit systems to people as gold plated gods gift.
R hops depend so much on installation, they take far more time to fit well and they depend on so many variables that they arent worth the work for him to fit for customers.
If yiu can do it yourself and do it Well AND the hop design and barrel length means it will benefit they can be great.
They aren't a panacea
@@jediknight1294 I do agree with you, but I have done simple S- hop style "R-hops" for customers and friends using something analogous to Sugru, but my own mix of 100% silicone caulk and other ingredients to increase the durometer ; and its really easy to Install. They do need 24 hours to cure though, but they work incredibly well when done right. For the actual amount/time of labor put into it, it's definitely worth it imo, even for customers. Perfect fitment for any barrel window profile can be achieved too. Only downside from my experience is the 24 cure time, but that can be a non-issue with some prep
@@EuthanasiaSUPREME the issue is consistency and tuning time.
To get a S/Rhop that is better than a good standard hop rubber requires a fair bit of tuning time sitting and testing it and if yiu are doing it professionally it's labour intensive and eats time.
Plus of course you are tuning it to a single bb weight.
@@jediknight1294 I haven’t had that in my experience. Sometimes there’s a break-in period with S-hop style set ups of like 100-500 rounds, but other than that, I’ve personally never had any issues with them, and only positive experiences compared to every other hop up I’ve tried. They’re easy to set up and I literally have the same exact 400mm PDI barrel in a 2-3J vsr10 and my 1.6J SAI GRY with the same S-hop style patch and exact same M-nub - and they shoot different weight BBs with no other extra turning, other than the hop up dial of course. For reference I’m shooting 0.28-0.32g with the GRY and the VSR is shooting 0.45g-0.48gs. But idk everyone’s experience is different and I have my biases. But what works best for you is all that matters.
Will we have an update soon on these new motors how they are performing?
Yup, all the guns I'm working on currently are short shaft & Warhead haven't any short shaft to sample yet but as soon as I can find an excuse for a new warhead video, I'll do it.
Could you use micro switch with it and how fast is it not to be able to keep up with gate titan . The p90 test and results where shocking
What you think of krytac ?
Doesn't retro arms make a gear box for this and the 417?
After getting a 11.1 Li-Ion battery, my V2 gearbox cracked and blew the front out, in the process stripped the spur gear and ripped the piston head from the piston. Should I get replacement parts (and which are recommended for a 130M spring and a SHS High Torque motor) or should I just get a whole new gun?
It really depends on how much you like your externals and their quality. I've blown the front of my old Specna gearbox on SA-H02 with a Prometheus MS135SP spring, but besides the gearbox, the tapet plate, and the piston, there was no additional damage, so I've just repacked everything into another old-gen Specna gearbox and am now using ASG M95 since it's built to be a CQB gun. If you can afford one, Retro Arms gearboxes are built like tanks, but there are some compatibility issues due to tight tolerances.
@@Koscum Funny enough, it's also a Specna gearbox. I will probably save up for a Retro Arms gearbox that you mentioned it. Will SHS 32:1 gears be okay? I see they are on the cheaper side (25€) and I don't really want to spend 80+€ on something like Prometheus unless it's really worth it.
@@NickTronic96 Don't buy 32:1, just buy Rocket or SHS 18:1. An E&C gearbox shell or an E&C complete new gearbox is a good choice.
@@NickTronic96 I've yet to destroy SHS gears. I have 13:1 in my Specna and 16:1 in reserve with several sets of 16s and 18s installed in friends' guns. The only issue I ever had with them is that they didn't mesh perfectly with ASG motors, but I kind of blame ASG's pinion for that.
My custom RA build actually has Modify gear set because I wanted to test them out - they perform quite well, but are overpriced and buying an SHS set and shimming it properly is almost always worth the time and effort investment.
As far as the gear ratio is concerned, I'm not a fan of running kind-of-high-but-not-really-high-torque motors with high-torque gears because you get a quite sluggish trigger response which can be a bit of a pain in the arse if you run semi-only with on pre-cocking. On the other hand, that thing will pull any spring and will have no issues cycling a fully tensioned piston. As @Gear Parts mentioned, 18:1 will perform just fine with SHS HT and M130 shouldn't cause it any issues.
Also, about the gearbox, did you have an old E&C one or the new Orion? 'Cause Orion is kind of..... not very good.
Thank you both for the quick replies and advises. Much appreciated.
Isn't the warhead just a rebranded solink motor?
Nope
Been waiting for this
And to solve that trigger squish
When ever schmucks come to me with “compression issues”
Their shitty flat hop job always is the reason for their 100 FPS loss. And those things are designed to be worn out so why would you super glue one.
I removed all r hops and flat hops even from my own shit a while ago. I use regular backings Prometheus purple is my go too
What are those rail covers on YOUR m4?
Bell G28 when?
I have the exact same problem with my cyma m14 as you're decribing with the VFC - power is spot on with a 0.20g but significantly drops with heavier bbs. Dunno how to fix it without a fat spring which will put me way over the fps limit on a 0.20g
using as much air volume as u can + good length of the barrell
Better voluming
@@opairsoft8100 I have a 500mm barrel (standard m14), type 0 cylinder and good airseal... not sure what else I can improve there
That sounds a lot like a volume ratio issue. From what I can see in the Negative's video, ~400 was the result with a strong spring, a long inner barrel and a cylinder with a badly matched port. Do you have a no-port cylinder in your gearbox?
@@Koscum 500mm barrel, type 0 cylinder and good air seal. Only thing I can think to change is a heavier piston head as that apparently helps with joule creep
Round about 30:05 I was seriously expecting the "Lipo Puff-Up of Death". DOES NO ONE IN AIRSOFT USE A LIPO ALARM!!???
The creepy Russian clips are fucking mint
My Rc Dune buggies.....☺😊😀😁😂5 Smile's
i just ordered 1 for 150 euros here in sweden i will come around march i will return when i get it