I have that exact problem currently. However, I think my steering gear is worn out since the Jeep lane drifts and the steering wheel free spins in turns. It's a butt clincher when you have a whole revolution until the steering reacts.
Good video but very confusing.. I've tried this method on my YJ after replacing all the ball joints and still by adjusting the drag link I could not get the same number of turns on both sides and the steering wheel middle spoke to be in the centered when the wheels were straight...My jeep came with a 6" lift and its steering wheel has never been aligned...
This is a great video, I just replaced the power steering box in my 1983 CJ7... however I don't have an aftermarket shaft like this. I honestly have no idea how to get the wheel straight after making sure the steering is centered in the box. Both ends have a groove/bolt on the steering shaft, so I can't just remove it and move it on the splines. Any tips? Or do I just have to deal with crooked steering wheel when box is centered ( i'm talking before I touch the pitman arm its disconnected )
i just tried doing this eadjustment for the box centering at least on my 73 cj6 It has a later CJ box with the o-ring pressure and return lines but still has the 73 steering shaft and big diameter steering wheel. I am only getting 3 1/4 ish from lock to lock. I assume that is normal for a later model cj box? I got it all centered up and it mainly meant adjusting the drag link to get full lock up on the knuckle stops on the side I wasn't getting full turn to lock. Im weirded out about the box though. I wonder if there was a parts house mix up with the box and I got a car based box? I've had it for years but it was on my jeep that used to be trail driven only. I've since restored the jeep and taken it back to street driven duty and light trail use. Should I get rid of it and find a 4 + lock to lock box?
Man hope this works on my 90 4runner put a new box in it rebuilt the FRONT END COMPLETELY everything! DID NOT center my box so it wont hit the STOPS on the right side off about 1 1/2 inch turn left hits the Stops!!!!
As far as I know the CJ5 was never sold with an automatic transmission because the rear driveshaft would be too short. That’s why they made the CJ7. The extra 10” of the CJ7 gave them the room they needed for proper driveshaft angles and added length of the automatic transmission.
This is an excellent video! Gives me exactly what I need to center my steering on new gear box and shaft! Thank you thank you!
excellent straightforward no bs video thanks
Excellent video, thanks for posting. I’m nearing the end of my CJ7 restoration and was wondering how to do this.
Jeep CJ 101
OG ! Back to the basics!
Thank you frens…
Thank you!
I have that exact problem currently. However, I think my steering gear is worn out since the Jeep lane drifts and the steering wheel free spins in turns. It's a butt clincher when you have a whole revolution until the steering reacts.
Thanks for the video. My left turning radius was terrible. Sure enough, the gearbox needed to be centered.
done learnt today! thanks brother
What we are here for! 😎 Thank you!
Great Video! Would you be able to adjust the steering shaft at the u-joint the same way with a factory style steering shaft Vs. the aftermarket?
Just what I was looking for.. tired of my YJ steering wheel being off..
Awesome!
thanks for this!!!
Good video but very confusing.. I've tried this method on my YJ after replacing all the ball joints and still by adjusting the drag link I could not get the same number of turns on both sides and the steering wheel middle spoke to be in the centered when the wheels were straight...My jeep came with a 6" lift and its steering wheel has never been aligned...
This is a great video, I just replaced the power steering box in my 1983 CJ7... however I don't have an aftermarket shaft like this. I honestly have no idea how to get the wheel straight after making sure the steering is centered in the box. Both ends have a groove/bolt on the steering shaft, so I can't just remove it and move it on the splines. Any tips? Or do I just have to deal with crooked steering wheel when box is centered ( i'm talking before I touch the pitman arm its disconnected )
I am in this same boat. To disconnect my shaft, I have to drop the column. There has to be a better way.
Thanks.
Very much appreciated
i just tried doing this eadjustment for the box centering at least on my 73 cj6 It has a later CJ box with the o-ring pressure and return lines but still has the 73 steering shaft and big diameter steering wheel. I am only getting 3 1/4 ish from lock to lock. I assume that is normal for a later model cj box? I got it all centered up and it mainly meant adjusting the drag link to get full lock up on the knuckle stops on the side I wasn't getting full turn to lock. Im weirded out about the box though. I wonder if there was a parts house mix up with the box and I got a car based box? I've had it for years but it was on my jeep that used to be trail driven only. I've since restored the jeep and taken it back to street driven duty and light trail use. Should I get rid of it and find a 4 + lock to lock box?
What are those front leaf spring shackles about? Never seen ones like that
Nice! Thanks!
Does this mess with canceling turn signals?
Man hope this works on my 90 4runner put a new box in it rebuilt the FRONT END COMPLETELY everything! DID NOT center my box so it wont hit the STOPS on the right side off about 1 1/2 inch turn left hits the Stops!!!!
That was it !! It turns like FACTORY thanks WFO
Should be included in the job it can be a lot of money and time to fix an also before you take it apart use a paint marker and maker it's location 😎
that's a factory auto in a cj5 is'nt that rare
As far as I know the CJ5 was never sold with an automatic transmission because the rear driveshaft would be too short. That’s why they made the CJ7. The extra 10” of the CJ7 gave them the room they needed for proper driveshaft angles and added length of the automatic transmission.