the Best FOCUS Point for the SHARPEST Photos!
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- Опубліковано 27 чер 2024
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In this week’s episode, we discuss the best focus point for perfectly sharp photos. Image sharpness and focus are two topics that always seem to attract quite a bit of attention, which is interesting as they both go hand in hand. And depending on what you're photographing, the focus mode, point and size of focus point will more than likely require some level of adjustment in order to achieve sharp focus. In this video, I'll review the different focus modes, point types and sizes in order to help you determine which is best for your particular genre of photography. I hope you enjoy this week's video and as always thanks so much for watching! - Mark D.
✅VIDEO CHAPTERS:
🔘 Where to Focus? 00:30
🔘 Focus Modes 2:40
🔘 Focus Points 3:58
🔘 Which is Best? 9:27
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✅QUESTION: Which Focus Point do you use most often?
Like you, I use single point of focus. Thanks for another great video!
Happy to do it Steve!@@stevejohnston7118
Single point for me, but I have face detect activated also.
It depends on what I'm shooting. Mostly, single auto focus, one point for landscapes.
For landscape, it's almost always single point.
Thanks for the explanations of the various types of focus.
Part of the problem though is that as " landscape photographers" we fall into the belief that our scenes are always static and this is not always true.
On a recent shoot I was getting a shot of a couple of flower blossoms when suddenly a moth landed on the top blossom and began feeding.
Within moments a bee came along and wanted to feed on the same blossom as the moth and seeing the moth already feeding buzzed rather loudly and moved to the lower blossom and began it's work.
The moth got the message and flew off and the bee moved to the upper blossom.
BUT WAIT THERE'S MORE!
The moth apparently decided it wasn't giving up and returned to the flower and literally stared at the bee until it left and then returned to feeding on the top flower.
Fortunately, because it was a bit breezy and flowers tend to move in the breeze, I was in a continuous focus mode and caught the drama in some remarkable detail.
The point here is that landscape photography isn't static and what seem like a static shot can change in a heartbeat.
One thing that I think is important and you touched on this in the beginning when talking about maximizing sharpness from proper focus point placement by focusing 1/3 of the way into the scene and using an appropriate aperture, people should keep in mind and remember that they need to think of the scene in terms of how the camera sees it, not how you see it yourself, and set up your shots and place your focus point accordingly. I have to say that focusing 1/3 of the way in always confused me a bit because I couldn't figure out if they meant 1/3 of the way into the scene as the camera sees it or as I see it, and realizing this was sort of like a lightbulb moment for me (I was talking with someone about focal lengths and this came up as part of that discussion).
Thanks a lot Mark, I’ve been waiting for these info for a long time, specially the landscape topic.
Another informative video. Many thanks Mark. Oh! and Merry Christmas to you, I look forward to watching more of your output in 2024.
Good idea for a video, Mark! There are a bazillion videos on youtube about "getting sharp photos / focusing" but I don't think I've ever seen one that went into depth about the various focus modes and focus points. Kudos for originality!
Mark, Once again, you presented another great topic with very helpful recommendations. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
Thanks so much!
Great information, thank you.
Thanks for your helpful content, Mark! Single autofocus point is my most used mode.
Glad to do it!
Thank you for the video
Nice explanation helping to simplify this topic. Couldn't help but notice what appears to be an old Kodak instamatic camera on your table next to the keyboard. I remember those! Thanks again and have a great weekend!
Great tips as always Mark. Perhaps you could have also touched upon the "focus and recompose" method--when you should do it, when you shouldn't. (This is a lazy shortcut that's often quicker than changing your focus point.) And is that an old 110 camera on your desk? A blast of nostalgia for sure! They should create digital cameras in that form factor. 😊
Very helpful information. Thanks
Glad you think so!
Great video Mark! I also use the single point focusing method. Then, when on a tripod I change the focusing point before taking the shot; when I’m shooting hand held I use the focus and recompose method as it works faster ( especially when you operate the camera with only your left hand).
Thanks my friend!
Nice one, Mark! 👏
Thanks so much!
Very Helpful! Additionally, I use single point focus.
Thanks Nancy!
Great video Mark! I use single focus point as well. In rare instances where I take sports or portraits I used the eye focus
Much appreciated my friend!
Cool answer
Thanks for sharing.
Happy to do it!
Great video
I love that Georgia Garden Knom. Go Dawgs!
For landscapes and stills, and especially for macro, I use single point AF with back button focus. If things are moving, I use continuous focus with a small group of 9 or 25 points.
Nice how to video on focusing. For landscapes I prefer the zone focusing, I started off with spot focus o the but found that not all was in focus at F8 and up. So I now use 9 zone AF focusing.
This is a new one for me!
Thanks for checking it out!
Great video as always Mark! Some really good info here. An important point that could be had in this conversation is hyperfocal distance, which would scientifically be the best place to focus in your scene. Of course this applies mainly when you're trying to get everything in one shot. If you're focus stacking it's not as big a deal. Also if you want to make artistic choices to have certain things in focus and others out of focus, it's less important as well, but a good concept to know regardless!
Much appreciated Mike!
Great video again, Mark. When discussing hyperfocal distance, I seem to remember that, when you first started using the Fuji GFX, you mentioned the considerable variation in depth of field, depending on sensor size. Is this an issue worth revisiting with at least four sensor sizes in general use? Thanks for a great tutorial.
Thanks for a helpful video 👍🙂
Of course! Thanks for checking it out!
An idea to focus a long exposure. How about choose the seashell 1/3 into the image then fully magnify the seashell in live image and manually focus on it. Now sit tight and wait for the sun to set.
Now that's one of the better ways of doing it. I always, and I mean ALWAYS use manual focus for landscape or other critical work for professional purposes. Thank you sir.
Mark, thanks for addressing this topic. Very helpful and using the rule of thirds grid makes it simple to find that 1/3 of the way in. I usually use a single focus point even when trying to capture birds stationary in trees. Can’t wait to give this a try with landscape photography. As others have noted I thought it was great putting the 110 camera on your desk.
Glad to do it my friend!
It seems you are saying to focus 1/3 of the way up your picture ... is that correct? And if so, how is that meant to relate to what you are photographing?
Thanks!
Thanks Tom!
Great video Mark. I learned about the 1/3 - 2/3 rule from the guys at Tamron just recently. I shoot with a Sony FF and it comes in handy. I imagine with a GFX 100MP with shallower depth of field, it is even more useful.
Great to hear you enjoyed it!
Mark can you use the built in focus stacking in camera to get everything in focus with landscape? Great video! I just got the Canon 6D mark iI and you video helps. It may take 6 months to figure out all this camera can do.
It might be informative to show newbies the depth of field scale on most of the older 35mm lenses and how it worked
Hey Mark. Great video as always. I just got my GFX100S and loving everything but the battery drain. Do you have any tips/tricks in the settings to maximize the battery life from this thirsty camera. Thanks!
Very informative video about a topic that can be confusing.. thank you! ALSO.. where did you get that Ansel Adams t-shirt?
Thanks Randy! It's from a brand called Hippy Tree
Thanks again for another great video. I always enjoy learning from you. How would you recommend focusing on moving animals such as on safari? We are going to Africa this summer, and I am gathering information about the best settings to capture moving large animals.
Thanks Robin! I'd probably start with some sort of wide tracking
Hi, thanks for that video. You didn’t mention the 4th option « All » what are your thoughts on that ? Thanks
01:04 Lago di Braies! 🤙
I use the full sensor ("Wide" on Sony) and if that doesn't work, I manually focus. On cameras where the full area autofocus isn't as good as Sony, I'll usually use a center point focus and use back button focus.
Excellent explanation as always. My camera has different menus and fixtures but I can find the corresponding options. To be honest, I would have thought that a large focus zone instead of single focus point would have logic for a landscape shot but what you explained here about the advantages of single focus point for the case makes total sense. A huge thank you Mark. CL_Ruben
On my handheld shots I tend to focus (single point), then recompose. Are there any disadvantages in this method, rather than move the focus point in-camera? By the way, excellent tutorial as always.
It's 1/3 the distance, not 1/3 of the composition. Often the foreground half doesn't change as much as the background half, so usually focusing closer to 40-50% from the bottom is more accurate.
I currently use wide afc focus for portrait and wedding, would you agree that that the right one?
for sony cameras, turn pickin on, select the background and use the closest distnce on the scale that brings the background in focus; it won't work for aperture from 1.2 - 8;
I'd be interested in seeing a video about metering. I don't fully understand that concept.
If you are focusing on a group of people three layers deep but only a foot or so between the back row people and the front. row people, using a manual spot funtion on your camera at say, F11, I have found you are always best focusing on a person in the back which gives me the best results of good focus to the front. If I focus on a person in the front row, the people in the back tend to be soft. What is the technical reason for this?
I only have 9 point focus on my camera, Canon Rebel T5. There are many times, ithought about a new camera that offers alot more focus points to help me get whatever in focus. Do you think I need to upgrade my camera to access more focus points?
Hi Mark, I'm also a Fuji shooter and noticed you were using multi-metering and single point. Fuji's multi-metering is usually very good and consistent, as is the dynamic range, so all good. I just wondered how often you would use spot-metering, linked to single-point auto focus, in conjunction with AEL (recompose/refocus/shoot)?
I actually never change my metering mode - as you mentioned, it works very well
The best light meter is your histogram
Hi Mark, I see F11 and F16 throughout this video :) which does not align with the topic of your previous video f/11 myth. Now I am confused :)
Photography rules are so confusing! Rule No1 _Review that image on the back of your camera_ Rule No2 _No chimping_ ;)
I dont understand what's this obsession with sharp photos? Like often times it's part of the art-style or "mood" to have slightly grainy or a bit softer pics. I mean people often complain when a lens is "too sharp" as well. I mean good video for beginners but I think you're just running out of ideas for videos :D
It is a given that sharpness or lack there of is an artistic tool choice. I am by no means a beginner and I associate with a lot of good shooters. I have NEVER heard anyone complain about a lens being too sharp. (See first sentence). Finally, your last remark about running out of ideas was really uncalled for and adds nothing to the conversation.