@@PlasteringForBeginners love your channel mate & watching your vids. Can tell your a top tradesman. I got a block wall about 2m high x 3m width been bare block for 15 years & I want to render it. I have very little experience just watching people on site & all your videos. 1 do I sbr wall before the scratch coat. What mix for scratch coat how long do I leave it before I put top coat on & do top mix need to be different ratio with waterproofer in. Any advice will be greatly appreciated thank you mate
@@PlasteringForBeginners Need your advice, i am a painter & decorator. What would you recommend as an all round plastering trowel for filling in with undercoat plaster? For making good surfaces to paint.
I love reading these comments. I'm Canadian, a former teacher and now a plasterer in the UK! Something that always sounds funny to my ear is the way you Brits use the word 'pal'. That's a bit old fashioned in North America, and often comes across as sarcastic, as in if someone messes you about in some way you say 'Thanks a lot, PAL!' So, thanks for the video, PAL! 😄
Haha I loved this. That's a great comparison and I've heard "Marra" before but I never actually knew the origins. I do love the English language. Thanks for the heads up lads. Cheers pal 🤣🤣
Never knew there was so much to it. Great to watch an expert at work and taking such pride in your work too. Excellent video and excellent job. Someone took a lump out of our bay window sill and I can't afford to get anyone to do it for me and it's a council house and they'll fix nothing (10 years without heating - they installed the system brand new and 6 months later it quit).
What a great video and explanation. I will try your system, however i will have to run a drip line along the bottom of the sill to prevent runs down the external paint work. Thanks for the idea 👍
Thanks for the video! I now have a good start on my project. My sills are much thicker. Like 8 inches and before I tear them all down, I am trying to figure out how they created the "molds". House, and I believe the sills, were bult in 1963 here in ST Petersburg, Florida USA. I really appreciate you!
Just started learning how to plaster out here in new york ...iv only come across your videos they are very helpful ...great work keep the viedos comming
Very nice explanation thanks Blaine. I'm far from a beginner and in the beginning started off working as a labourer for a multi-finish spread in London. Years later I gave up cement and chemical glues to specialise in historic lime and now slake and make my own lime putty mortars for old house and church repairs. For the record lime mortar in the eye's is very painful, especially the fine particle mixes used in skimming work and can affect people so differently, one labourer who got splash-back from a mixer was off work, lying down in a darkened room for 3 days until his eye was better. After a couple of hospital visits I now always wear glasses/goggles doing ceiling skims and don't take too many chances. By slaking the fine 'kibbled' quicklime you double the amount of lime putty you produce and there is very little waste of mortar on a job because until it's slapped onto the wall and exposed to the air it won't start to set. I usually pre-mix my mortars several weeks or even months before a job because it makes it lovely and sticky. At the moment I'm rendering a house front in a haired lime mortar and doing 3''x 1'' raised area's around 5 windows & 1 door which I will also be pargeting a bull-nosed, single line in the green render to highlight the opening. Lime mortars uses no chemicals (other than the natural ones) and actually absorbs carbon dioxide from the environment giving a lime plastered room better acoustics and a slightly warmer feel than a cement one. Lime and cement will continue to harden up to 6 years after it's first set. I have greatly enjoyed the interesting and friendly brother- (& sister)hood of the wet trade over the years and started mixing with a stick in a bucket (no whisks at that time in the 80's) worked on one or two multi-million £ projects in the UK with the 4 different conservation firms I worked for and enjoy the bond you get with somebody who also does the same work. All the best.
So sorry for the late reply but your story is fascinating. I'd love to be able to try using the old lime putty - I think it's an amazing skill so I have a huge amount of respect for you my friend! I'd love to give it a try one time. Hopefully our paths will cross. Thank you for your comment and it's great hearing from a true craftsman like yourself. Well done. Thanks again. Blaine 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners, I'm blushing at the compliments thanks Blaine. I simply got into the whole thing because the material works and has easily stood the test of time and I love old churches, I also take an hourly rate cut when doing them up because they were built for the public and I want to give something back. Working in an old church built in a water meadow with no damp course and no waterproofer it was a fascinating place with Sgraffito mural work done in different coloured sand & cement renders in 1880 by Haywood Sumner, I cut away all the cement render a meter high around the inside of the building and re-rendered in lime mortar. The oldest place I worked in was Torre Abbey, Devon which was 800 years old. down in the undercroft of the place, there was even a cell with a small rectangular hole where a hermit lived out his time. I found this place so cool and because I started early, worked late I would talk to the ghosts of the place. In actual fact we found about 6 or 7 remains in an area near the lavabo (dish washing area) which was being prepared for the new lift shaft. Around the entire complex there was a very expensive laser fence system installed to deter thieves. I talked with Basil the Kia's site manager and asked him if he seen anything strange. He said that of the 6 or so times that the silent alarm had been triggered it was always in the oldest part of the site where the old church was built. There were 2 types of building plan for the place, the architects and the archaeologists, the architects did their drawings with rulers and cad software, the bone diggers did theirs freehand. Before any area's were opened up for repair or replastering you had to take one of the 4 Museum of London bone diggers with you so he could OK you to start. Down in the undercroft area I found a hidden Medieval circular stone staircase which it was decided they wouldn't uncover because of the costs. There were quite a few big (4 -5 feet thick) internal support walls and when repointing 2 of the wall tops I found the bottle stashes of the alcoholic monks who had lived and worked there. The Abbey bottled and distributed brandy and other pricey spirits at the place. Under the haired top-coat plaster, which pulled off the wall like a sheet, near the hidden staircase, carved into a stone support column plastered in 3 coat work lime, facing into a corner with no doors or windows I found a quatrefoil. It looks like a 4 leaf clover and was an interesting find, but no idea what it was for. In other old Devon properties I've found Daisy wheels carved into wooden passageway panels to ward off evil spirits. Across the road from the site there was an old tythe barn where 300 Spanish Armada prisoners-of-war were kept prisoner before their transfer for trial or a bigger jail. While you are still young, learn about the traditional stuff and do it yourself. Go on a SPAB course as I once did, they are all over the country and in terms of contacts are value for money. Lastly since getting into the business I've never been out of work. This has taken many years of living in one spot, I don't advertise, my work is word of mouth. Best of luck.
Beautiful work , the English do it well and the standards so high ,we do it very similar here in Australia , everything’s ruled , plumb and flat with a nice sponge finish .
Thank you mate and yes I agree. I worked in Oz and the firm I worked with were brilliant!! Great standard of work. Thank you for watching and it was great hearing from you!!
Hey Mate, Fantastic job, watch all your videos, great craftsmanship. What was your render ratio for first coat? I believe the top coat was 5:1. Also I have an existing cill, that was painted, the paints peeling off, needs a clean up, would I need to use new beads?
How has it faired after a winter with the ice? I would have thought the plastic would have given water inroads to the cement? A window sill is horizontal after all. Also the 5:1 ratio I would have thought would make the cement permiable.
I think it's still going well my friend...I've not heard anything so I assume all is well. I appreciate your concern but I think it's going strong...I'll let you know otherwise 😂
@@PlasteringForBeginners i m8 i live in whitley bay toon army haha but the stonework gets fucked to bits of the sea air sand and cement and lime plenty pva etc
Nice job with the sills. I cut sills off when i do renovations, its much quicker. Use a little wet tile cutter then jackhammer it off. Takes me about 2hours to cut off all the sills of a house.
That is the first time I have seen someone renovate some grotty window cills. Those were in pretty good condition though - wonder how you would approach cills on older houses that have started to disintegrate - I've seen a lot of local terraced houses about 110 years old in my area where the ornate Victorian cills have started to flake off. They seem to be made up of some kind of aggregrate compound and were probably pre-cast. Could you tell us what mix you used, it looked pretty thick cement/sand mix - did you have a plasticizer in the mix ? Great to watch and you are a perfectionist !
Thanks mate! Yeah these were in good Knick to be fair but the process is the same regardless. The scratch was 4:1 and the to was 5:1. FEB Rendermix was in both and a bit of lime for the top also. Lovely mix 👍
Lovely job and so worth doing. Underneath my window sils is stone moulding which is in very bad shape and needs redefining. I was going to use Toupret which is a filler, do you think this will work? Do you have a video doing this kind of job as it's not that straight forward?
Thank you mate - I really appreciate that. I do for the scratch, I find it makes the render stickier, but I don't like it in the top coat. I just don't like to finish with it. Thanks again for your kind words, great hearing from you 👍
Love the videos. Am using your video to plaster my full house. But you may be able to help me with something I need to block point some windows. I got a crushed stone and yellow sand white cement and lime. What is the best ratio to mix. Keep the video coming
I have uPVC windows so would need to butt up against the plastic at ~1 inch height. What's the bet way of waterproofing this gap, I'm just worried about water ingress and freeze/thaw. Lots of good quality caulking I guess?
I would use window glazing, tape off the sill entirely,tape the window approx 3/8 inch up from the sill. Oil prime the window thinly, then force the glazing into the gap and using a 1 inch putty knife put a 30 degree slope on the glazing. Let the glazing dry a week then oil prime it, then paint with a high quality exterior paint.
Great Vid, very informative and excellent work, could you please tell me what the liquid (FDR ?) is you're brushing on is it akin to PVA/water mix, Thank you :)
My question is how do you WATERPROOF them? My house had pre-cast concrete sills with a rebar for strength. Constant water penetration has rusted the rebar and causes the concrete to split. I can patch the cracks with something like FLEXX, which is a sanded caulk to get a rough texture like the original concrete, but HOW DO I SEAL THE CONCRETE FROM FURTHER WATER DAMAGE?
Hi love the videos. New to all this could you please let me know which type of sand you use for your top coat render for the Cills please and do you add lime to your mix also what ratios you are using thanks . Rav
Hi mate! The top coat is 5:1 ( 5 Plastering sand: 1 cement). I also added FEB Rendamix to the mix for added waterproofing and workability! Thanks for watching and I hope this helps my friend 👍
Nice work there Blaine, just wondering where abouts you work as I'm in northwest UK and you sounded like a northern lad 😉 as in need of a house render as well as me cills cleaning up as they are looking battered. Cheers. Kev
Hi...great work. We are in manchester and trying to found someone like you😀 what type of trademan should we look for and how much would you charge to do 3 windows sil? Biggish at the bottom and 2 like yours for upstaires windows? Just to have an idea on how much i would need to spend😀 thanks
Hi mate, how's it going?? I'll be honest mate there's quite a lot of prep and it's quite a time consuming job. Depends on the tradesmen but I'd say anywhere from £200 - £400. Shop around and see what you get...just be careful on the tradesmen because sills can easily blow if prepped and rendered badly.
Really helpful mate. Been repairing some old damaged sandstone sills using timber forms and lots of trial and error. Never considered using beads to get the clean edges 🤣 Always struggle mix the mix, this weathers making it a bit too powdery even when covered in plastic and watered. What’s the ratio you are using?
Yeah that's how we did it in NZ - its great practice but it takes a lot more time ha! It's just a standard 5:1 with a bit of lime for that creamy consistency when floating. I also always use FEB Rendamix - that's always good to use pal! Great hearing from you and good luck with your sills 👍
Top man, only one sill left so may as well carry on with timber. But will Defo be looking into those beads for the next occasion. Thanks again, and keep those vids coming. This would have saved me so much time if I had discovered sooner! 👍🏻
Plastering For Beginners I’ve never seen a steel trowel to flatten s and c render at the final stage. Always sponge float or sponge. Would you do an entire house with the steel trowel this way? Also was it too tight to put beads on at the back of the cill? That’s why you free handed them? Cheers you do great work
@@PlasteringForBeginners look forward to it mate. I'm a plumber who can do a bit of everything and plastered my first wall the other week and it was actually really good! Be interesting to see how venetian plastering is done etc
I've seen a few videos but I've never done it! I'm looking forward to it - I'll let you all know how it goes! Great hearing from you and thanks for the comment. Cheers 👍
A smooth coat render is about 5:1 scratch coat 6:1. And not too much water. Add a little bit of waterproofing solution , in the old days a good dollop of neat pva use to do it if ya didn’t have feb mix . But things change with time. So check the merchant for modern solutions.
When the video started I thought, ‘how is he going to do the drip edges?’ But using the corner bead is genius. Reinforces the corners and makes it a doddle to do the drip edge. Nice job! 👍🏼
It is good to see some one who takes pride in their work, well done to you.
Thank you mate! I really appreciate that 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners love your channel mate & watching your vids. Can tell your a top tradesman. I got a block wall about 2m high x 3m width been bare block for 15 years & I want to render it. I have very little experience just watching people on site & all your videos.
1 do I sbr wall before the scratch coat. What mix for scratch coat how long do I leave it before I put top coat on & do top mix need to be different ratio with waterproofer in. Any advice will be greatly appreciated thank you mate
@@PlasteringForBeginners Need your advice, i am a painter & decorator.
What would you recommend as an all round plastering trowel for filling in with undercoat plaster? For making good surfaces to paint.
I love reading these comments. I'm Canadian, a former teacher and now a plasterer in the UK!
Something that always sounds funny to my ear is the way you Brits use the word 'pal'. That's a bit old fashioned in North America, and often comes across as sarcastic, as in if someone messes you about in some way you say 'Thanks a lot, PAL!'
So, thanks for the video, PAL! 😄
in the north east of england 'marra' is used quite a bit which means the same as pal.
a marra was a coal miners assistant
cheers marra
Haha I loved this. That's a great comparison and I've heard "Marra" before but I never actually knew the origins. I do love the English language. Thanks for the heads up lads. Cheers pal 🤣🤣
What about Stone window sill on Victorian house? What type of plaster or filler should be used? They need to be breathable.
Never knew there was so much to it. Great to watch an expert at work and taking such pride in your work too. Excellent video and excellent job. Someone took a lump out of our bay window sill and I can't afford to get anyone to do it for me and it's a council house and they'll fix nothing (10 years without heating - they installed the system brand new and 6 months later it quit).
A thing of beauty - great instruction and demo. Really inspiring. Thank you!
Thanks a lot mate...I really appreciate that!!
Great work, I need to do a large bay window sill and I am bit apprehensive about it, but thank you for sharing, your video taught me a lot. Thank you
Mate that's a top vid couldn't have come at a better time as I am wondering how to fix my cracked concrete window sills nice one
Thank you mate and not a kitchen!! Thanks for watching my friend 👍
What a great video and explanation. I will try your system, however i will have to run a drip line along the bottom of the sill to prevent runs down the external paint work. Thanks for the idea 👍
Beautiful work mate love the fact your so passionate in your craftsmanship
Thanks for the video! I now have a good start on my project. My sills are much thicker. Like 8 inches and before I tear them all down, I am trying to figure out how they created the "molds". House, and I believe the sills, were bult in 1963 here in ST Petersburg, Florida USA. I really appreciate you!
He’s good this guy. Just watched his plastering for beginners vids, might have a go myself
What a massive improvement 👍Top tradesmen and great guy to explain the various processes needed for a quality job.
Thank you mate - I really appreciate that pal 👍
Just started learning how to plaster out here in new york ...iv only come across your videos they are very helpful ...great work keep the viedos comming
Great to hear a viewer from the states! Thank you for watching. I really appreciate it and good luck with your plastering my friend!!
great video, was after this kind of content. Keep up the good work!
any tradesman who is good at his or her job, and passionate about it is always good to watch
Thanks for making the video
Thanks mate. I really appreciate that 👍
Pure excellence in craftsmanship
Very nice explanation thanks Blaine. I'm far from a beginner and in the beginning started off working as a labourer for a multi-finish spread in London. Years later I gave up cement and chemical glues to specialise in historic lime and now slake and make my own lime putty mortars for old house and church repairs. For the record lime mortar in the eye's is very painful, especially the fine particle mixes used in skimming work and can affect people so differently, one labourer who got splash-back from a mixer was off work, lying down in a darkened room for 3 days until his eye was better. After a couple of hospital visits I now always wear glasses/goggles doing ceiling skims and don't take too many chances.
By slaking the fine 'kibbled' quicklime you double the amount of lime putty you produce and there is very little waste of mortar on a job because until it's slapped onto the wall and exposed to the air it won't start to set. I usually pre-mix my mortars several weeks or even months before a job because it makes it lovely and sticky.
At the moment I'm rendering a house front in a haired lime mortar and doing 3''x 1'' raised area's around 5 windows & 1 door which I will also be pargeting a bull-nosed, single line in the green render to highlight the opening.
Lime mortars uses no chemicals (other than the natural ones) and actually absorbs carbon dioxide from the environment giving a lime plastered room better acoustics and a slightly warmer feel than a cement one. Lime and cement will continue to harden up to 6 years after it's first set.
I have greatly enjoyed the interesting and friendly brother- (& sister)hood of the wet trade over the years and started mixing with a stick in a bucket (no whisks at that time in the 80's) worked on one or two multi-million £ projects in the UK with the 4 different conservation firms I worked for and enjoy the bond you get with somebody who also does the same work. All the best.
So sorry for the late reply but your story is fascinating. I'd love to be able to try using the old lime putty - I think it's an amazing skill so I have a huge amount of respect for you my friend! I'd love to give it a try one time. Hopefully our paths will cross.
Thank you for your comment and it's great hearing from a true craftsman like yourself. Well done. Thanks again. Blaine 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners, I'm blushing at the compliments thanks Blaine. I simply got into the whole thing because the material works and has easily stood the test of time and I love old churches, I also take an hourly rate cut when doing them up because they were built for the public and I want to give something back.
Working in an old church built in a water meadow with no damp course and no waterproofer it was a fascinating place with Sgraffito mural work done in different coloured sand & cement renders in 1880 by Haywood Sumner, I cut away all the cement render a meter high around the inside of the building and re-rendered in lime mortar.
The oldest place I worked in was Torre Abbey, Devon which was 800 years old. down in the undercroft of the place, there was even a cell with a small rectangular hole where a hermit lived out his time. I found this place so cool and because I started early, worked late I would talk to the ghosts of the place.
In actual fact we found about 6 or 7 remains in an area near the lavabo (dish washing area) which was being prepared for the new lift shaft.
Around the entire complex there was a very expensive laser fence system installed to deter thieves. I talked with Basil the Kia's site manager and asked him if he seen anything strange. He said that of the 6 or so times that the silent alarm had been triggered it was always in the oldest part of the site where the old church was built.
There were 2 types of building plan for the place, the architects and the archaeologists, the architects did their drawings with rulers and cad software, the bone diggers did theirs freehand.
Before any area's were opened up for repair or replastering you had to take one of the 4 Museum of London bone diggers with you so he could OK you to start.
Down in the undercroft area I found a hidden Medieval circular stone staircase which it was decided they wouldn't uncover because of the costs. There were quite a few big (4 -5 feet thick) internal support walls and when repointing 2 of the wall tops I found the bottle stashes of the alcoholic monks who had lived and worked there.
The Abbey bottled and distributed brandy and other pricey spirits at the place.
Under the haired top-coat plaster, which pulled off the wall like a sheet, near the hidden staircase, carved into a stone support column plastered in 3 coat work lime, facing into a corner with no doors or windows I found a quatrefoil.
It looks like a 4 leaf clover and was an interesting find, but no idea what it was for.
In other old Devon properties I've found Daisy wheels carved into wooden passageway panels to ward off evil spirits.
Across the road from the site there was an old tythe barn where 300 Spanish Armada prisoners-of-war were kept prisoner before their transfer for trial or a bigger jail.
While you are still young, learn about the traditional stuff and do it yourself. Go on a SPAB course as I once did, they are all over the country and in terms of contacts are value for money.
Lastly since getting into the business I've never been out of work. This has taken many years of living in one spot, I don't advertise, my work is word of mouth.
Best of luck.
Pure artisan. Great work. Profession needs more like this.
A work of art. Beautiful ! My window sills are looking a bit wonky underneath! Need this done to them.
Such patience! A rendering Zen Meister!
Excellent video, can you also do this in the external tile sill that come with some ex council houses
Really helpful - thank you
look like you've done that once or twice! Beautiful job! great vid!
Haha just a few times pal 😂
Very nice smooth finish indeed but what about the rain lip under the sill to avoid the rain going back into the house?
The whole sill is angles including the underside. The water will just run off 👍
Superb Video..The attention to detail and the patience is awesone 😮👌👌
Hi, thank you for this video, this is very helpful what ratio are you using for sand and cement? Thanks
Good stuff - I need to practice for sure.
👍🏽
Nice job lot of respect to you brother
great video, what was the original ratio for the render mix?
Fantastic work
Top job!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and tips!!
No worries, thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing. Nice video.
Great job Blaine, looks sharp with the plastic instead of metal bead
Thanks mate! The plastic beads are a lot shorter 👍
Plastering For Beginners yeah have a sharper edge too. Looks the business
Cheers mate!
You make it look so easy if I lived on ground floor I’d have a go but ladders are a No No great job 👏 👏
Job well done, thanks for the great demonstration
Thank you for watching!
stunning work
Nice job, well done.
Excellent presentation, good luck with your channel bro
Like the care you take great vid👍
Thank you!!
Beautiful work , the English do it well and the standards so high ,we do it very similar here in Australia , everything’s ruled , plumb and flat with a nice sponge finish .
Thank you mate and yes I agree. I worked in Oz and the firm I worked with were brilliant!! Great standard of work. Thank you for watching and it was great hearing from you!!
Hey Mate, Fantastic job, watch all your videos, great craftsmanship.
What was your render ratio for first coat? I believe the top coat was 5:1.
Also I have an existing cill, that was painted, the paints peeling off, needs a clean up, would I need to use new beads?
Fantastic video. Nicely paced.
Thank you mate, I really appreciate that!!
You wouldn't belive how much your vids have helped me, keep it up muka.
Thank you mate. I'm glad you're finding them useful. Cheers 👍
Another great video mate, well done keep it up buddy.
Cheers pal!!
How has it faired after a winter with the ice? I would have thought the plastic would have given water inroads to the cement? A window sill is horizontal after all. Also the 5:1 ratio I would have thought would make the cement permiable.
I think it's still going well my friend...I've not heard anything so I assume all is well. I appreciate your concern but I think it's going strong...I'll let you know otherwise 😂
👍 we'll done mate nice work
great job m8 im a painter by trade and that job is a class that u have done big thumbs up from me
Thanks mate! I really appreciate that 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners i m8 i live in whitley bay toon army haha but the stonework gets fucked to bits of the sea air sand and cement and lime plenty pva etc
Love the video it helps a little.
Glad to hear it!
Nice job with the sills. I cut sills off when i do renovations, its much quicker. Use a little wet tile cutter then jackhammer it off. Takes me about 2hours to cut off all the sills of a house.
That works too my friend! Good way to do it 👍
Awesome job R kid.....great video...just subbed...are you a Manc by any chance ?
That is the first time I have seen someone renovate some grotty window cills. Those were in pretty good condition though - wonder how you would approach cills on older houses that have started to disintegrate - I've seen a lot of local terraced houses about 110 years old in my area where the ornate Victorian cills have started to flake off. They seem to be made up of some kind of aggregrate compound and were probably pre-cast. Could you tell us what mix you used, it looked pretty thick cement/sand mix - did you have a plasticizer in the mix ? Great to watch and you are a perfectionist !
Thanks mate! Yeah these were in good Knick to be fair but the process is the same regardless. The scratch was 4:1 and the to was 5:1. FEB Rendermix was in both and a bit of lime for the top also. Lovely mix 👍
You kept your cool with that noise haha brilliant video fella
Haha tell me about it pal!!
Lovely job and so worth doing. Underneath my window sils is stone moulding which is in very bad shape and needs redefining. I was going to use Toupret which is a filler, do you think this will work? Do you have a video doing this kind of job as it's not that straight forward?
That's great. Thank you.
Your a real craftsman and a pleasure to watch.
One question please do you ever put any sbr in the reader mix?
Thank you mate - I really appreciate that. I do for the scratch, I find it makes the render stickier, but I don't like it in the top coat. I just don't like to finish with it. Thanks again for your kind words, great hearing from you 👍
How do you manage rainwater drip grooves on the bottom of sills
Liked the cameo of the chip pie. 🤣
Great work and filming whats ur render mix?
Lovely work mate
Thank you mate. I really appreciate that 👍
Love the videos. Am using your video to plaster my full house. But you may be able to help me with something I need to block point some windows. I got a crushed stone and yellow sand white cement and lime. What is the best ratio to mix. Keep the video coming
Very therapeutic! More calming music please! :0)
Cheers pal 👍
Super job,, great idea using beads,, 👍👍
Thank you mate. I really appreciate that 👍
great video, whats the ratio? Is the sand, plastering sand or building sand or sharp sand?
Thank you.
The top coat is 5:1 ( 5 Plastering sand: 1 cement). I also added FEB Rendamix
i want to render around the sides and top around my back door. would you still do the whole bonding agent thing? (sorry im a complete novice)
I have uPVC windows so would need to butt up against the plastic at ~1 inch height. What's the bet way of waterproofing this gap, I'm just worried about water ingress and freeze/thaw. Lots of good quality caulking I guess?
I would use window glazing, tape off the sill entirely,tape the window approx 3/8 inch up from the sill. Oil prime the window thinly, then force the glazing into the gap and using a 1 inch putty knife put a 30 degree slope on the glazing. Let the glazing dry a week then oil prime it, then paint with a high quality exterior paint.
Looks good
These captions crack me up lol. Good job lad
Haha thank you matey 👍
Brilliant thanks.
Amazing job!
Cheers mate!!
Good work. I like the finish on the walls. What sand and mix did u use for the walls
It was 4:1 scratch and 5:1 finish with extra Lime 👍
Great Vid, very informative and excellent work, could you please tell me what the liquid (FDR ?) is you're brushing on is it akin to PVA/water mix, Thank you :)
Snorkherder it’s SBR it’s like a laytex sealer better than pva
It's also a waterproofer which is ideal for rendering projects 👍
Can you do this on mullions?
My question is how do you WATERPROOF them? My house had pre-cast concrete sills with a rebar for strength. Constant water penetration has rusted the rebar and causes the concrete to split. I can patch the cracks with something like FLEXX, which is a sanded caulk to get a rough texture like the original concrete, but HOW DO I SEAL THE CONCRETE FROM FURTHER WATER DAMAGE?
I have a Strawbale home and want todo concrete window sills inside. We have deep window sill.
Bravo!
Hi love the videos. New to all this could you please let me know which type of sand you use for your top coat render for the Cills please and do you add lime to your mix also what ratios you are using thanks . Rav
Hi mate! The top coat is 5:1 ( 5 Plastering sand: 1 cement). I also added FEB Rendamix to the mix for added waterproofing and workability! Thanks for watching and I hope this helps my friend 👍
That was skillful
Cheers pal!
What mix ratio do you apply for smooth coat render? Looks a top job that also 👍🏻
would like to see these 4 years on.
Banger 💯💪🏤
Cheers matey!!
Did you put a groove in underneath?
Nice work there Blaine, just wondering where abouts you work as I'm in northwest UK and you sounded like a northern lad 😉 as in need of a house render as well as me cills cleaning up as they are looking battered. Cheers. Kev
I'll do en for you for a grand
Hi mate, can you render over old sandstone, using the same techniques to build the cils back up, level and square? Love the vids, cheers!
Did you need to use sbr for the top coat? with it being wet and having a mechanical key i thought it would of been alright?
I just had it next to me and for sills I'm always a bit cautious - I've seen them go drummy before so I was playing it safe pal 👍
What mix ratio for sand cement
Can this be done to cover tile windows cills?
Yeah mate. You just need to use a pre-grit like Rendagrip before rendering. It works a treat!
Hi...great work. We are in manchester and trying to found someone like you😀 what type of trademan should we look for and how much would you charge to do 3 windows sil? Biggish at the bottom and 2 like yours for upstaires windows? Just to have an idea on how much i would need to spend😀 thanks
Hi mate, how's it going?? I'll be honest mate there's quite a lot of prep and it's quite a time consuming job. Depends on the tradesmen but I'd say anywhere from £200 - £400. Shop around and see what you get...just be careful on the tradesmen because sills can easily blow if prepped and rendered badly.
@@PlasteringForBeginners i was quoted 800 for 1 big window and 2 small 😪
Top banana pablo very very good job.
Haha cheers pal!
Could you do a video with sand and lime if you haven't already done one
I'll look into my friend 👍
Really helpful mate. Been repairing some old damaged sandstone sills using timber forms and lots of trial and error. Never considered using beads to get the clean edges 🤣 Always struggle mix the mix, this weathers making it a bit too powdery even when covered in plastic and watered. What’s the ratio you are using?
Yeah that's how we did it in NZ - its great practice but it takes a lot more time ha! It's just a standard 5:1 with a bit of lime for that creamy consistency when floating. I also always use FEB Rendamix - that's always good to use pal! Great hearing from you and good luck with your sills 👍
Top man, only one sill left so may as well carry on with timber. But will Defo be looking into those beads for the next occasion. Thanks again, and keep those vids coming. This would have saved me so much time if I had discovered sooner! 👍🏻
How do you render under the sill edge
It's the same process pal 👍
Nice. Can you do a vid on forming window and door head top drip beads
I'll try and get one lined up my friend!!
Hi just wandering what size speed skim would you recommend thanks in advance
I like the 1.2m but 900mm is the perfect size as an all rounder my friend 👍
Cheers thanks for help 👌
Plastering For Beginners I’ve never seen a steel trowel to flatten s and c render at the final stage. Always sponge float or sponge. Would you do an entire house with the steel trowel this way?
Also was it too tight to put beads on at the back of the cill? That’s why you free handed them?
Cheers you do great work
Thanks. Another great video. That chippy will have white finger soon 😄
Haha thanks pal. I really appreciate that mate 😊
Hey Blaine have you done any venetian plastering? That be an interesting video to learn about.
I haven't yet but I plan to in the future! It's on the list pal 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners look forward to it mate. I'm a plumber who can do a bit of everything and plastered my first wall the other week and it was actually really good! Be interesting to see how venetian plastering is done etc
I've seen a few videos but I've never done it! I'm looking forward to it - I'll let you all know how it goes! Great hearing from you and thanks for the comment. Cheers 👍
what proportion of sand and cement do you use for the mix? Thanks.
A smooth coat render is about 5:1 scratch coat 6:1. And not too much water. Add a little bit of waterproofing solution , in the old days a good dollop of neat pva use to do it if ya didn’t have feb mix . But things change with time. So check the merchant for modern solutions.
Hi a similar window sill however it is rotten any suggestions on how I can repair this?
Depending on the rot, you might have to rip it out and start again. You can’t work on a rotten background I’m afraid pal
@@PlasteringForBeginners Thank you for your response
Beautiful, great workmanship and patience!!
Thank you mate. I really appreciate that!!
When the video started I thought, ‘how is he going to do the drip edges?’ But using the corner bead is genius. Reinforces the corners and makes it a doddle to do the drip edge. Nice job! 👍🏼
Thank you mate and thank you for the comment. I really appreciate it my friend 👍
I feel like you’re working in Spain or something.. rendered wall,green window frame,blue skies 🤙
brilliantly
Thank you 😊