Tips and Tricks for Sharpening European Longswords
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- Опубліковано 4 січ 2016
- Mike Edelson's Video: • Fechtschule New York 2...
1x30 Slack Belt Grinder: www.harborfreight.com/1-in-x-3...
Trizact Belts: www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page...
Leather Belt with Polishing Compound: amzn.com/B000R6RLAY
Best sharpening video ever. I’ve been researching sharpening for at least six months, watched hundreds of hours of videos on it, and thought I had accumulated a lot of nuggets and insights, but these 29 minutes just doubled my knowledge. Thank you for making and sharing this video.
For someone who calls himself "stupid", let me tell you, I've had University professors that couldn't even explain with clarity how to find their own genitalia. Yet after watching your video I can assure you that I was left with both knowledge, and confidence, to the point where I believe that my first practice sharpening will end up being a more than acceptable, if not outright perfect, result.
A rather famous physicist said once: "If you cannot explain something well enough, then you haven't learnt it well enough". Well sir, you are a natural. Humble, full of knowledge, and with the patience to use clarity and simplicity to make this process easy to grasp to, for example, someone like me, who can't even remember the right way to sharpen a pencil.
I cannot thank you enough for putting together this video. Began collecting swords recently, some had me worried because they came absoutely edge-less, and it's been some weeks of research until I came across your tutorial. Did watch Mike Edelson's earlier today, but there were wind-based mic artifacts that occluded critical parts of his speech.
So thank you once again, very much. I'd have gladly payed for a class like this. May you have an amazing day sir.
I am interested in the genitalia story. I have so much questions. Share your story please!
Probably the best spent half hour I've had on youtube in a long, long time... Even if I've never actually held a real sword. Thanks for sharing!
I rewatch this video everytime before I Sharpen a new sword .
EXCELLENT video - thank you!
It's very rare to see someone explaining a complex process online in a manner that is easy to understand, but you are obviously both a subject matter expert and an expert communicator.
Blood & Iron brought me here. great video!
Long live \Blood & Iron/
Same lol
Always refreshing to hear an intelligent individual. Especially when it's about important topics. Swords..... OUR swords, are important.
Some helpful tips to add to this. A wider belt typcially gives more even results. I've always used 2" belts or even 4" belts. 2" seems to be the most efficient in terms of costs and results. Also, having a set up where if you slip or drop your blade, it falls away from the belt instead of falling into a wedge between the belt and guide block and get chewed up. :) hope this helps! Happy cutting!
Love how that sword rings. Thank you for sharing.
I love the beginning when you raise the sword into the frame. Freakin’ awesome sword. I’m not into swords (yet?) but that’s a work of art.
thank you for this, alittle slow learner here, but you explained it well enough that I managed to apply this easily! :) thank you.
1.) A second cut file 2.) a whetstone 3.) and a leather strop block
Thank you very much! I followed the Mike video and then I've gone for your one! You added a lot of interesting while useful informations!! I've gone through my sharpening follow your advices and everything has gone very well!
Many thanks!
OUTSTANDING content! Thank you very much!
Sincere thank you for a thorough and very professional content!
Thank you for sharing this video. I learned a lot. I am looking forward to sharpening my longsword the way you suggest!
Outstanding vid. Thank you. Answered a lot of questions i had.
You are amazing. Think you for sharing your knowledge.
thank you for the tips and techniques they work great!
I would have titled this video Tips and Tricks for Sharpening Blades in General. I've applied a few of your techniques to machetes and pocket knives and it works flawlessly. great video and info bro. =)
Thanks, glad it has been working well for you. Yeah I sharpen everything this way. But in keeping with the intended theme of the channel... :D
I certainly never used a slack belt grinder before, however the technique of putting on 3 angles and polishing on leather I've been doing as long as I can remember with any blade I sharpen. I also strop my knives before and after I cut: that's doing basically the opposite of a sharpening motion, pulling the blade backwards at an angle over leather or some dense, thick, soft fabric. I'm not sure if I read it, was told it, or puzzled parts of it out - likely equal parts of all of the above.
Solid video. Much appreciated. Also you have some solid cuts with that sword.
Good explanations, useful info, all makes sense, no overmistifying BS, awesome vid.
You are knowledgeable,articulated and concise my man #safetyisonyou
Thanks for making this video.
Great video. Thank you
This is great man. Thanks.
Thank you so much. I, like some others do not own a sword (yet), but will be applying your tips and instruction on even my kitchen blades. Like some others I would also like your opinion on stropping. As a child I remember my barber stropping his straight razors before he shaved his adult customers. This was done with a large thick belt that hung at the side of the chair. As I am sure you know, the razor was stropped in the opposite direction of a cutting motion, and with some apparent force for a half dozen or so passes over each side of the blade: away from himself on the one side of the blade then toward himself on the other side. I would value your opinion on this practice. Do you imagine this would help in some way between actual sharpening? Barbers must have had a reason for doing this?
For someone who doesn't yet have all of the equipment and/or space to do this themselves but who does have a dull sword, do you have any recommendations as to where go to get a sword sharpened? Thanks.
Great video, just one question: I am using the Ken Onion Work Sharp, after seeing other UA-camrs successfully edge their blades. I have very poor results on my sword, good for knives but not so much luck on my longer blades. Any advice? I was trying to sharpen a Windlass One-handed Arming sword. Thanks!
Just look up convex grind sharpening it's basically the same from what you seem to be doing.
What would you call that type of edge geometry, hybrid scandivex? Partial convex? Touched scandinavian? Dirty Scandi? Can’t wait to try it.
Hello sir, sorry to bother again, I'm finally finishing gathering the tools and required belts, and found myself wondering two things, if it's not too much to ask: The leather belt, do I have to make one myself, or is there any place online that sells grinder/sander leather belts? Was planning to get a simple strope, angle it right, then apply your technique, but quickly realized I'd most likely fail miserably - haha!. The second question would be: What edge angle would you advice to put on battle axes? I mean migration-era, to renaissance, mainly, 10" long axe blades, or so. Not tomahawks or throwing axes (ie, francisca), no no, I mean Dane to halberds and such. Found some rather good videos on how to sharpen an axe, gotta admit, but weirdly enough, none mentioned the angle.
Thank you once more for your time, may you have an awesome day!
What's your opinion on the Ken Onion Worksharp for applying your tips and tricks on sword sharpening in this video?
I have an opinion now. So I can respond. The Ken Onion worksharp with blade grinding attachment works great. You can by Trizact belts for it too. The ability to slow down the belt is really useful for shaping a tip or for knives with thin steel. Downside is that you are paying 4 times more and the real benefit can be overcome by paying close attention to what you are doing. The Ken Onion by it self is only really good for kitchen knives and the like in my opinion.
I recently bought a longsword that i am quite happy with, but it is too tip heavy. I'd like to move its center of balance about 5 inches closer to the hilt by taking away some of the material on the blade w a belt sander. Would this ruin the blade in any way?
That is going to be tricky. Just cutting the edge down isn't going to do it. It is probably too thick in the blade. To move a full 5 inches would require the removal of a lot of material. You could try adding a fuller, but would require some way to machine that a bit more carefully. If it has a screw on pommel, maybe you could make or buy a heavier pommel. But total blade weight would go up. May I ask what sword it is?
Hey Karl, Ive been trying your technique, I have the same belts and everything. I have been having a lot of trouble on the A80 belts. I don't know if my belts are bad (They may have absorbed moisture in my very humid basement) or if my technique is simply off... anyway the gist of my issue is trying to get the hairline light out of the edge on a Hanwei Tinker Norman sword, as well as some crappy stainless steel wallhangers (I will never use these for cutting or target use, I was simply using them as practice). I have noticed that the hairline light on the edge changes after every few passes (And after every few passes I use the woodblock as advised). Is the edge dull in these spots? or is it bent from the wood? Is the problem maybe just because these are crappy swords? I plan to sharpen a Balaur arms longsword next... I want to eventually sharpen my Albion Hospitaller sword too. Also I am using the 20 degree angle guide as advised. I think I pretty much have the 40 degree edge on the hanwei.
Howdy! I think what you are referring to is often times called the bead. The little whisp of metal on the very edge after sharpening? If that is what you are referring to, I encounter it all the time with various sharpening projects. It's because of the ductility of the metal. Basically the steel used in question has a high ductility. This doesn't mean it has a low hardness... But it usually means it has a low hardness. Ductility is the plastic deformation the material can go through before it breaks. Basically, the belt is pulling material to the edge until it is so thin that that little bead of metal is no longer applying pressure to the belt. On harder steels you may not encounter that at all (I have some high hardness knives that never draw a bead). Most longer blades and non-stainless kitchen knives have a high ductility (So they aren't too brittle and snap) and draw a bead more readily. This is why I suggest the wood block. Usually this will strip the bead so you can confirm you have re-profiled the edge. High ductility steels may have a thicker bead that is harder to get rid of Most wall hangers are made of highly ductile, lower quality steel that is not properly heat treated. If you have a variable speed grinder or a sharpening stone you can sharpen slower to prevent bead formation. Alternatively you can knock the bead off by pushing it back and forth until it breaks off. I usually do this by pushing it side to side on my leg if I am wearing thick jeans or something, but you could just do that on the wood block. Note, that ductility will make getting a very fine edge much more difficult because the bead draw will be thicker than you want for a really crisp edge. But if you have a good profile and work your way all the way down to leather you can still make a pretty good edge. That being said, with a high ductility steel you usually sacrifice edge retention.
assuming the blade is only slightly dulled, with which grit belt do you start?
16?
completely re-shaping the edge shouldn't be necessary, but I'm unsure as to which of the middle/fine ones I start with.
Completely re-shaping an edge might very well be necessary depending on how it started out and how you want it in terms of angles.
Is there a video on how to make a tip of a sword specifically a katana sharp
When I try to keep the tip sharp, change the angle you are grinding at for the very top of the sword. Try to go for a 90 degree angle for that last quarter inch. Use very light pressure and give it time to cool between touches. You want to keep as much material as you can on the very top so it doesn't break. Making a sword pokey is a really fiddly process on a grinder. A lot of times I just move over to a diamond stone. Depending on how much reshaping I need to do.
Okay thank you
Thanks for uploading this! I tried this method and it works beautifully with flat and hollow ground blade profiles, however I wonder if you have any tips for a convex/lenticular blade?
I applied this method to a convex ground arming sword, and while it did provide a decent edge, it left pretty broad secondary polished bevels on the blade ~5-7mm. At first I thought I had applied too much pressure with the coarser belts so I used scotch bright to rub the blade down and tried again with the aim to minimise the bevel size. Even with minimal pressure however, the bevel size was pretty big and I assume this was due to the natural curve of the blade being less acute than 20 degrees which led to the removal of a fair bit of material to achieve this angle. The slack belt system was good in a way that in conformed to the original blade shape, thus the geometry was preserved and the issues are mostly cosmetic.
If anyone uses a different method for sharpening this blade type, I would be really interested to know.
where did you get your sword ?
albion
what kind of sword is the polished one?
Hi +Dustin Barrett, It's an Albion Alexandria.
Thanks, and thanks for the vid. Very helpful!
This video gave me dry lips