I made my own 510-Pyro. Because of the cost of buying the phenidone (and postage - from the UK to Thailand) was large, I used it all up in making several batches. I am 77 now. I think I have enough to last me until my days are up. I've been using it for a couple of years now, and for a variety of films, and I've always been very happy with the results.
Nice video and images. I am using 510 Pyro for 4 months as my standard developer (in combination with the eco zone imaging alkaline fixer. I do not use any other developer, I shoot Kentmere and Fomapan films (120mm and 4x5 sheets) and use the developer in "stand-development" (delution 1:500 for 1 hour to 1hour and 15 minutes, only 60sec inversions at start) and "semi stand" (delution 1:200 for 20 minutes 60 sec inversions at start and midway) and I like the results. I scan the film with my digital camera and edit them with in Affinity photo (invert and sport removal) and Capture One (stiching, final editing and archive). I use a Ricohflex TLR and the Intrepid 4x5 camera.
That’s a nice clean workflow! And using the dilution the bottle probably lasts forever. I do like Kentmere in 510, stunning results especially in 120. Thanks for watching 🍻
Hi! I've been using 510 Pyro this year, almost on stand development and I got really impresed by the results. Have developed 120 Cinestil BWXX, a Tri-X from the late 1990s and JCH 400 @ 125. All came with rgeat tones and detail. Since I used it for the first time I haven't developed with another stock. Really liked it! And James, from Zone Imaging is a very nice guy to deal with, which contributes for the great experience. My best!
I have just started working with 510 Pyro, and I've got to say..I'm impressed with the results! I'm very much looking forward to combining this developer with my film choice (Agfa APX 400) for next year's Frugal Film Project, and learning how I can get the best from that combination. 🙂👍
It is an impressive developer, and I'm rather pleased with the results I get. If you're using the original Agfa APX 400, I'm seeing 11 minutes at 1+100 shooting at ASA-320; if you're using AgfaPhoto APX 400, it is the same time and dilution but full ASA-400 for the speed! Hope this helps, and I'm looking forward to seeing your results in the FB group! And thanks for watching 🍻
Someone else that finds cemetery images interesting! Nice shots! I'm wanting to try 510-Pyro but I'm on a septic system and a little worried about disposal.
I love a good cemetery the older the better! As for disposal, reach out to Zone Imaging they can give you the details for the septic situation. Thanks for watching 🍻
Hi, if your septic tank is a large one so for a household of 4 or larger, using 510 Pyro will be perfectly fine for it! The solvent is what is used in most shampoos, soaps, hand wash, make up, sunscreen etc and is rapidly biodegradable. Pyrogallol and ascorbic acid are quite fast to biodegrade too and are commercially sourced from plants, the former being through fermentation and the final ingredient is slow to biodegrade but is in significantly smaller amounts than the other environmentally friendly developers that are ascorbic acid and phenidone based! Best regards, James Director of Zone Imaging
@@jameslane3846 Thanks James! Yes, the tank is for a household of four but it's now just my wife and I at home. Still, we're probably only talking a few rolls of film a month or so. Your information does put me at ease about usage! Thanks again!
Thanks for the video. I also enjoy your written reviews. I saw recently that Camera Traders in Victoria is carrying 510 Pyro. Was tempted to try, but got scared off by the need for different fixer. Maybe I should take another look.
I had trouble with streaking when I used 510 and the Eco Fix, but I switched to Fotospeed fix, plus, after fixing I add a selenium bath to the paterson tank and let it sit for a couple of minutes. The selenium creates more detail in highlight values (when toning prints it works the other way it deepens shadows). I have just dried a strip of FP4 and the negs look so good, rich, punchy, and not too stained, but certainly not streaky.
Interesting developer. I can see using it in special situations. Not sure what those would be but when I'm shooting I'll know. Thanks for the informative video !
510-Pyro is a great developer; I have been using it for years. So are the Pyrocat developers and I cannot really decide between the two, even though the latter involves two solutions and is particularly impressive when using Steve Sherman's minimal agitation techniques. Here in New Zealand, I make up both myself.
There is little choice in NZ other than mixing one's own pyro developers. The key thing for longevity with 510-pyro is sourcing 98%+ TEA. Suspect commercial suppliers are probably using the readily available bulk ~90% TEA -10% water grade..@@AlexLuyckxPhoto
Best developer I have used, I still like others for certain films but 510 Pyro is my Go-To for most of my mono work these days - it's exceptional with Ilford's Delta and Kodaks T grain films, it tames the contrast of films such as Pan F when stand developed - yeah I love the stuff
I've been using 510 Pyro and it seems to me that not all emulsions suit it. For example with Delta 100 and Foma 100 I get mediocre results. However 510 and and TriX the results are really really outstanding, using the recommended semi stand. It seems 510 Pyro and TriX are made for each other. Thanks for the video!
I haven’t tried it with Delta 100, will have to give that a go to see what results I get. And yes 510 and Tri-X is a lovely combo. Thanks for watching 🍻
I made a few experiments with 510 but got very dense negatives with the times mentionend in the data sheet (i tried different films). So after just 2 sessions i left 510 pyro, back to Rodinal and then right now i develop tons of negatives with Atomal 49 1+1 and 1+2. I didnt print them yet, but so far i´m very happy with Atomal49. Great stuff in my opinion. Very compensating, very good for pushing. You definetely get more speed out of films then with Rodinal, i guess full Box speed. I pushed HP-5 to 3200 and it looks fantastic! Though i have to say, that one roll of the 510 negatives looks super dreamy and otherworldy (hp-5 in 1+100). For conclusion: i still love Rodinal ^^ 1+50 is great and i will def. try 1+100 (not stand developed!) for Rodinal glow.
I've found 510 works particularly well for half frame, I've put it down to the relatively strong staining. I do find the consistency a bit annoying, and I have worried that the green-leaning stain might be making printing a little trickier than it needs to be. I've just ordered some bf200 to try as an alternative, though apparently that does have a relatively weak stain, shall be interesting to compare.
Oh I can see 510 working well with half-frame. I've only shot some rolls and went with Studional and FX-39II. I have yet to darkroom print a frame developed in 510, so I'll have that on my list. Thanks for watching 🍻
Excellent information. Thanks a lot Alex. One comment about your film edit: the music is much too loud compared to the moments you talk. I love the good content with a funny semi nerds style! Keep up the good work!
Thanks for this video. I’ve been interested in 510 is something I’ve been interested for a while now. I have a few questions for you. Is 510 is good to use for first time developing? I’ve only developed a couple rolls so don’t have a lot of experience. My local lab told me that when shooting and intending to develop with 510, I should shoot a full stop over exposed because of how strong 510 can make the shadows, do you find this true? Have you tried using 510 with Fomapan films? May I ask what rotary machine you are using? I’m interested in purchasing one myself. Cheers!
Good Morning! I would not recommend using 510 for your first go at home development. Try something like D-76, it’s easier to handle, and will last a while to let you make mistakes and figure stuff out. I didn’t go to a pyro developer until a good two years of home development. I often will shoot box speed or a third stop over with Pyro. So an asa-100 film I’ll shoot at 80. My processor is called the B’s Processor. Hope this helps and thanks for watching 🍻
I made my own 510-Pyro. Because of the cost of buying the phenidone (and postage - from the UK to Thailand) was large, I used it all up in making several batches. I am 77 now. I think I have enough to last me until my days are up. I've been using it for a couple of years now, and for a variety of films, and I've always been very happy with the results.
@@colinclark3218 Then let’s hope you live beyond your supply! It’s a great developer and I salute your skill in mixing it up! Thanks for watching 🍻
Nice video and images.
I am using 510 Pyro for 4 months as my standard developer (in combination with the eco zone imaging alkaline fixer. I do not use any other developer, I shoot Kentmere and Fomapan films (120mm and 4x5 sheets) and use the developer in "stand-development" (delution 1:500 for 1 hour to 1hour and 15 minutes, only 60sec inversions at start) and "semi stand" (delution 1:200 for 20 minutes 60 sec inversions at start and midway) and I like the results. I scan the film with my digital camera and edit them with in Affinity photo (invert and sport removal) and Capture One (stiching, final editing and archive). I use a Ricohflex TLR and the Intrepid 4x5 camera.
That’s a nice clean workflow! And using the dilution the bottle probably lasts forever. I do like Kentmere in 510, stunning results especially in 120. Thanks for watching 🍻
Hi! I've been using 510 Pyro this year, almost on stand development and I got really impresed by the results. Have developed 120 Cinestil BWXX, a Tri-X from the late 1990s and JCH 400 @ 125. All came with rgeat tones and detail. Since I used it for the first time I haven't developed with another stock. Really liked it! And James, from Zone Imaging is a very nice guy to deal with, which contributes for the great experience. My best!
I’ve never been a fan of stand developing, but 510 does an amazing job with the process! And yeah James is the best! Thanks for watching 🍻
@@AlexLuyckxPhoto agree with you. But it worked so well on stand that I began using it with some tweaks :)
I have just started working with 510 Pyro, and I've got to say..I'm impressed with the results! I'm very much looking forward to combining this developer with my film choice (Agfa APX 400) for next year's Frugal Film Project, and learning how I can get the best from that combination. 🙂👍
It is an impressive developer, and I'm rather pleased with the results I get. If you're using the original Agfa APX 400, I'm seeing 11 minutes at 1+100 shooting at ASA-320; if you're using AgfaPhoto APX 400, it is the same time and dilution but full ASA-400 for the speed! Hope this helps, and I'm looking forward to seeing your results in the FB group! And thanks for watching 🍻
Someone else that finds cemetery images interesting! Nice shots! I'm wanting to try 510-Pyro but I'm on a septic system and a little worried about disposal.
I love a good cemetery the older the better! As for disposal, reach out to Zone Imaging they can give you the details for the septic situation. Thanks for watching 🍻
Thanks! I'll do that! Yes, I agree the older the better!@@AlexLuyckxPhoto
Hi, if your septic tank is a large one so for a household of 4 or larger, using 510 Pyro will be perfectly fine for it!
The solvent is what is used in most shampoos, soaps, hand wash, make up, sunscreen etc and is rapidly biodegradable. Pyrogallol and ascorbic acid are quite fast to biodegrade too and are commercially sourced from plants, the former being through fermentation and the final ingredient is slow to biodegrade but is in significantly smaller amounts than the other environmentally friendly developers that are ascorbic acid and phenidone based!
Best regards,
James
Director of Zone Imaging
@@jameslane3846 Thanks James! Yes, the tank is for a household of four but it's now just my wife and I at home. Still, we're probably only talking a few rolls of film a month or so. Your information does put me at ease about usage! Thanks again!
@@tgchism oh, that's totally fine then! A few rolls worth of 510 Pyro per month won't affect a septic tank
Such a great video!!! Really love the way you've organised it and also included all the info at the end. Big 510 pyro fan here!
Also love the music!!
Thanks! It was difficult to get all the pieces together but I’m happy that it all worked! Thanks for watching 🍻
yeah it's like a puzzle sometimes but you put it together nicely! :) @@AlexLuyckxPhoto
Thanks for the video. I also enjoy your written reviews. I saw recently that Camera Traders in Victoria is carrying 510 Pyro. Was tempted to try, but got scared off by the need for different fixer. Maybe I should take another look.
Always worth a second look! Thanks for the kind words and for watching 🍻
I had trouble with streaking when I used 510 and the Eco Fix, but I switched to Fotospeed fix, plus, after fixing I add a selenium bath to the paterson tank and let it sit for a couple of minutes. The selenium creates more detail in highlight values (when toning prints it works the other way it deepens shadows). I have just dried a strip of FP4 and the negs look so good, rich, punchy, and not too stained, but certainly not streaky.
Interesting on adding the toner! What dilution did you use? Thanks for watching 🍻
@@AlexLuyckxPhoto 1 part selenium to 3 water. I read on a forum that someone accidentally added selenium and he was pleased with the results!
I started using Zone Imaging’s 510 Pyro early this year and have been very impressed. Have had excellent results using the semi stand times.
Yeah the stand-developing is a nice bonus. Does a stunning job with Ferrania Orto. Thanks for watching 🍻
Interesting developer. I can see using it in special situations. Not sure what those would be but when I'm shooting I'll know. Thanks for the informative video !
It’s a fun one to work with for sure! Thanks for watching 🍻
I haven't tried Pyro yet, but definitely interested in seeing what it can do!
It’s an amazing developer and is fairly friendly to the environment when diluted. Thanks for watching 🍻
510-Pyro is a great developer; I have been using it for years. So are the Pyrocat developers and I cannot really decide between the two, even though the latter involves two solutions and is particularly impressive when using Steve Sherman's minimal agitation techniques. Here in New Zealand, I make up both myself.
Pyrocat HD is an amazing developer and Steve’s minimal technique provides stunning results! And kudos for mixing yourself and thanks for watching 🍻
There is little choice in NZ other than mixing one's own pyro developers. The key thing for longevity with 510-pyro is sourcing 98%+ TEA. Suspect commercial suppliers are probably using the readily available bulk ~90% TEA -10% water grade..@@AlexLuyckxPhoto
@@dickwilkins9900Zone Imaging uses 99.7% triethanolamine with 0.21% diethanolamine and 0.09% water impurities
Best developer I have used, I still like others for certain films but 510 Pyro is my Go-To for most of my mono work these days - it's exceptional with Ilford's Delta and Kodaks T grain films, it tames the contrast of films such as Pan F when stand developed - yeah I love the stuff
It’s the magic juice! Thanks for watching 🍻
Another great video. Great information and images. Thank you
Thanks for the kind words and for watching 🍻
I love Zone Imaging 510 Pyro, it gives me great results time after time.
Yup! It certainly will always deliver! Thanks for watching! 🥃
I've been using 510 Pyro and it seems to me that not all emulsions suit it. For example with Delta 100 and Foma 100 I get mediocre results. However 510 and and TriX the results are really really outstanding, using the recommended semi stand. It seems 510 Pyro and TriX are made for each other. Thanks for the video!
I haven’t tried it with Delta 100, will have to give that a go to see what results I get. And yes 510 and Tri-X is a lovely combo. Thanks for watching 🍻
I made a few experiments with 510 but got very dense negatives with the times mentionend in the data sheet (i tried different films). So after just 2 sessions i left 510 pyro, back to Rodinal and then right now i develop tons of negatives with Atomal 49 1+1 and 1+2. I didnt print them yet, but so far i´m very happy with Atomal49. Great stuff in my opinion. Very compensating, very good for pushing. You definetely get more speed out of films then with Rodinal, i guess full Box speed. I pushed HP-5 to 3200 and it looks fantastic! Though i have to say, that one roll of the 510 negatives looks super dreamy and otherworldy (hp-5 in 1+100). For conclusion: i still love Rodinal ^^ 1+50 is great and i will def. try 1+100 (not stand developed!) for Rodinal glow.
@@Raumweiter I’m a big fan of Atomal also! Thanks for watching 🍻
I've found 510 works particularly well for half frame, I've put it down to the relatively strong staining. I do find the consistency a bit annoying, and I have worried that the green-leaning stain might be making printing a little trickier than it needs to be.
I've just ordered some bf200 to try as an alternative, though apparently that does have a relatively weak stain, shall be interesting to compare.
Oh I can see 510 working well with half-frame. I've only shot some rolls and went with Studional and FX-39II. I have yet to darkroom print a frame developed in 510, so I'll have that on my list. Thanks for watching 🍻
Excellent information. Thanks a lot Alex. One comment about your film edit: the music is much too loud compared to the moments you talk. I love the good content with a funny semi nerds style! Keep up the good work!
Cheers and thanks for watching 🍻
510 is my day to day developer, it gives great and consistent results and scans really well
Nice and it’s so true! Thanks for watching 🍻
Hi Alex. Victoria Camera Traders in BC sell it in store if you are looking for domestic resellers.
Good to know and thanks for watching 🍻
Nice!
I like d76 for it's very large available film development times.
D76 is a fine economical developer! Thanks for watching 🍻
I would love to see your negs, I think I'm experiencing strong fogging that is more of an issue in print making
I have yet to print anything developed in 510, maybe later this year! Thanks for watching 🍻
Great video! Have you tried developing Ferrania’s P30 with this developer?
I have not tried P30! May have to get a roll in 120 and give it a go! Thanks for the suggestions and for watching 🍻
Hi, we at Zone Imaging just fixed our densitometer again and we have Ferrania P30 next on the list to test for film developing times!
Thanks for this video. I’ve been interested in 510 is something I’ve been interested for a while now. I have a few questions for you. Is 510 is good to use for first time developing? I’ve only developed a couple rolls so don’t have a lot of experience. My local lab told me that when shooting and intending to develop with 510, I should shoot a full stop over exposed because of how strong 510 can make the shadows, do you find this true? Have you tried using 510 with Fomapan films? May I ask what rotary machine you are using? I’m interested in purchasing one myself.
Cheers!
Good Morning! I would not recommend using 510 for your first go at home development. Try something like D-76, it’s easier to handle, and will last a while to let you make mistakes and figure stuff out. I didn’t go to a pyro developer until a good two years of home development. I often will shoot box speed or a third stop over with Pyro. So an asa-100 film I’ll shoot at 80. My processor is called the B’s Processor. Hope this helps and thanks for watching 🍻
Thank you!! what kind of film processor is the one you use?? Cheers.
You’re welcome! I use a B’s Processor, a simple inexpensive rotary base. Thanks for watching 🍻
@@AlexLuyckxPhoto 👍🏻😊
Micheal Smith unfortunately passed away in 2018
😢
You are aware that Michael Smith died in 2018 aren’t you?
I did not know that. Sad news thanks for sharing and for watching 🍻