About once every year somebody remarks that their oil screen is put in with the opposite orientation, with the open end of their screen on the inside. This happens often enough that I suspect recent models of the Vulcan may have the opposite orientation for the screen. I went back to verify that I did it correctly. In the official 1995 Kawasaki dealers service manual, on exploded diagram 6-2 and the photograph on page 6-6, the service manual clearly show that mine is assembled correctly in the above video. This fits with my experience, since I did the first service on this bike and it was assembled that way from the factory. Not one of those who have commented in this thread were able to quote factory service manuals or technical service bulletins to back up the claim that the screen is in backwards. If your screen is installed with the opposite orientation, I would make no change until you take the time to consult with your own official factory service manual, since year of manufacture may be important. If anyone comes across more objective information from Kawasaki, please take the time to provide links to that information here. I'm sure many who stop by will be interested.
@@natalijaly456 That reference you quote agrees with what I have said for the VN800, read the last lines. Whenever you search for information on your bike, go directly to the source, the OEM dealers repair manual, not aftermarket websites that apply to many years and many models. I have done that for the VN800, see the discussion thread for more information. If your bike is different, I probably wouldn't change it, but don't be so confident you are doing it correctly until you consult your OEM dealers repair manual.
For those who don't own a factory service manual, I recently discovered that Kawasaki have taken the time to publish detailed parts diagrams collated by year, and offer them online for free. Those part diagrams will show your screen orientation. I found mine in that list, again demonstrating the screen orientation for my year is correct in the video. They also sell full online factory service manuals at the relatively inexpensive price of about $60, which is a bargain for those who work on their own bike.
Been building Harleys and Triumphs since mid seventie. Got creamed by a drunk on 9/11. Met a friend of a friend who had a 2002 Vulcan. In 03 that was the first bike I rode after my 9/11. I was amazed at the v-twin, sound and over all nice style. 2014 my uncle came across a 2005 Vulcan. At 72 hes not into motorcycles so I bought it for a couple grand. What a revelation. This machine is awesome. Thanks for the tips. Ride safe..
I just changed the oil on my 2004 800 Vulcan. To keep the bike leveled I just screwed in two hooks into the studs of my garage walls. I used ratched straps to the handle bars and the hooks and adjusted the level of the bike. Quick and simple.
Here’s my suggestion for not only checking the oil level while the bike is standing straight up, but for doing the oil change, and changing other lubes as well: Go to Sears, and spend the $100.00 on a Motorcycle Jack Stand. It’s short money on the benefits you will reap from having it. It’s the most valuable tool you’ll ever buy for working on your bike. It stands it straight up, elevates it up off the floor securely with ratchet straps in 3 different preferred heights for a good working position, and you’ll use it for countless different jobs while working on your bike. I got mine several years ago after a friend’s suggestion and I’m so glad I did. It’s not very large, easy to stow away, and has been invaluable on a dozen different bike projects. You can even use it to work on other things like lawn tractors and such. Check it out, and you can thank me later! Great video, and thanks for the tutorial! Safe riding!!!
Thanks for the video. Helped me change in my 2007 Vulcan Nomad 1600. I got a J&S jack when I bought my bike a month ago from the previous owner. Not to give a plug here, but the J&S jack is the best thing I have ever used. Came with an oil drain plate and everything. Go check out the video on their website, you might think it's bull s***, but I did it. I sat on the front wheel of my bike with it off the ground, and sat on the back seat while up on the stand. Stable as a rock. I was completely blown away. The video is accurate. No false advertising here. It is a 500 dollar jack, so I guess it should be damn good.
Great instruction by the way. Just bought my first ever bike and it is a Vulcan 800. I don’t have any experience with engines and such so I found This video very easy to grasp and step by step in a easy way
I must say that the guy rocks for being so specific with the procedures. I have never owned a Motorcycle up to now and have lots to learn as I like to do the maintenance myself. Great job mister. I feel more comfortable, thanks to you! Al from Canada
Thank you so much for this video. As a female rider it's important to not only become familiar with my bike but also understand and perform basic maintenance. I will be changing my oil this weekend. Thanks again!
Spelunkerd…Thanks for the Great Video. I have a 98 Vulcan 800. Changed the oil today. Add these tips. 1. I do not recommend Synthetic oil as this bike has a Wet Clutch. Possible to burn up the clutch. 2. When draining the oil, that washer under the drain plug drops into my catch pan. Be sure to find it. 3. I hate draining oil onto my starter when removing the filter. Take a Paper Towel roll center carboard and cut it just shorter than the Filter. Then cut it open and place it under the filter. With this I only dripped one drop onto my starter. 4. I put a 2x4 under the kick stand. This gets it almost level. Then I can tilt it the last bit with one hand on the handlebar and one hand on the kickstand. 5. That big square ignition key is the tool for removing the oil fill plug.
I just bought a 2008 Vulcan 2000. Your video was informative enough that anyone can do this simple task. Your step by step instructions are very good. And I too use your leveling method when checking the fluid level. Travis -- Texas
I used your video to change the oil and filter in my Vulcan 500 today. There were a few differences from your video to my small bike, of course, but it was extremely helpful. Thank you!
Thanks mate. Just changed the oil & filter on my '09 vn900 and your vid helped me do it confidently. Workshop manuals are good, but actually watching someone do it is best.
I'm about to be taught how to change the oil in my 2001 Drifter this weekend and it is helping me to much by watching this video and knowing ahead what I'm about to do. Thank you! Sonya from Maine. :)
You sir have quickly earned a new subscriber, I recently purchased a 2006 Vulcan 500 and there are a few small issues I need dealing with before I get it out on the road . #1 being the oil and how to change the oil. I now have confidence to change the oil and to make sure it is done correctly thanks to your video and channel, best regards from Lloyd and once again thank you.
Well done !! The weather was great for a bike this year so far. This is how I measure the fluid for every piece of machinery I have. I actually measure once the right amount of fluid , eng oil , gear oil, power steering ect and pour it into a translucent plastic container with a removable lid and mark the required amount on the side. Each container is labeled for each specific machine. I have a shelf with 10 containers ready to go for the next fluid change. Works for me.
i just got a 1995 vulcan 800 and am about to change oil. saw your vidio and was amazed at finding out about the screen, thanks i had no idea it was there... i even watched your video about coolant change. thanks so much for your video's...
I have a Goldwing as you can see in my picture- but I just bought a 1500 1992 KAWASAKI that I will try and bring back to life . I have learned a lot from videos like yours so thanks for your input on the oil change it was very helpful. APJ
Great idea, Jack, I'll do it next time. For some reason I haven't had the cooling system problems with my bike that I normally see with larger engines. The coolant drain plug is at the bottom of the crankcase, near the oil drain plug. You just remove the plug, open the top coolant filler cap, and let it drain. Then siphon the reservoir. Volume is small, as I guess I would expect. Like a gas engine you want to burp the system with cap off for the first cycle.
i just found it after i posted this. THANKS A TON!!! you are the best! i watch all your videos about the Kawasaki to get a basic idea on my 05 Kawasaki Vulcan 800. thanks again!
Those are wise remarks, in many ways. One day I let a bike tip over, and I felt like an idiot to put myself in that position, so I'm really cautious now. Thanks for your contribution.
Well done . Thank you very much. Now if you own the bike for a long time all you need to do is remember how much oil it takes that way you won’t need to check every time you change oil .
Thank you. Yes, I print the volume needed for each vehicle on the bottom of a measuring container used exclusively for oil. The other thing to remember is to wrap that container well so dirt from the garage can't contaminate the new oil.
Although i clean the screen each time I have found very little debris in it. When you do it, pay attention to the orientation of the screen, and reproduce that when you reinstall it. Some viewers here have described their model having a screen that is installed the opposite way. Mine came the way I show it from the factory and also I have a copy of the official dealers manual that showed the installation as I did it here. But, other models may be different.
What a kind remark, thank you! I'm doing a video now on how to adjust valve lash in this bike. I hope you stay tuned, it should be out later in the week.
In regards to making bike level to check oil, I made a 5 inch high block that is 6" wide by 8" long to put under the kickstand to level bike. That way, I can get down and inspect the oil level glass without any problems. I can also get under bike to see if there are any issues under the bike. I found this much better than the level and mirror that was used in the video.
Very thorough video, thank you! I don't think many people pull and clean the oil screen, great to know! It is not even in my Owner's manual for my 2009 VN900 Classic LT, but it is in the service manual I downloaded. I doubt most of these shops charging $100-$200 for an oil change do it either.
+ncmcgoverns Ya, agreed. I haven't found much debris in my screen and I suppose it would be possible to skip it. Cleaning the screen is described as a step for routine oil change in the dealer repair manual, so I included it. Thanks for watching.
I also place a piece of masking tape just below the oil filter on the block and attach 6 mill plastic to the back of tape and let it hang down to prevent oil from dripping on starter ect. Makes clean up easier .
Thanks, Mario. Next time I do it I'll video the effort, but it may be a couple of years. One thing to note is that my Vulcan doesn't have a fuel filter, so if you are having problems with the carb clogging up you might consider putting a fuel filter in line, if yours doesn't either. I did that when my carb got dirty and it hasn't been a problems since then.
(continued) You've raised a very interesting point. Although mine is correct for my bike when it was manufactured, I wonder if Kawasaki changed the design. There has never been enough debris in the screen for me to see if it collects on the inside or the outside of the screen. The direction of oil flow through the screen would be a factor there. Practical issues such as difficulty getting it out and ease of cleaning may be factors as well. If yours is fitted differently, I would not change it.
Great video. I watched the same video last year before changing my oil. I a going to change my oil again and returned to the video for a refresher. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. Planning to do my own oil change on a Used 07 Vulcan 1600 classic. That from the looks of the battery I later saw after bringing her home. Was caked with white acid flakes. So again. THANK YOU
As I recall it was about 3 1/2 litres, but I would check the manual for your bike. I have a large pail with marks for each vehicle I service, and I just fill the pail to the respective line, and it's usually about right. Most importantly you want to recheck levels over the coming days.
Yeah, I do have a small lift, but for a cruizer it is not so stable, and of course it's a pain to set up. One thing that is useful is the fact that when the meniscus is at the top of the site glass while the bike is on the stand, that corresponds to a 'not low' level when I carefully level it. So, at the gas station when I often have a glance at the glass at least I know I'm not too low, and I can check it often with no effort and no tools. Thanks for your input!
Thanks for your feedback, I'm glad it helped. Ya, a center stand would be great. The portable center stands are great for little bikes, but I've never seen them with one of these big bikes.
enjoyed your oil change video. i just started playing with my 08 vulcan classic 900lt. installed a baron BAK. trying to figure out the reason the FI light is staying on but in the meantime, an oil change is on the quick list. Your vid is extremely thorough and comprehensive. Nice job.
Yes, up here in Canada we normally use cold weather oil for winter use. I try to never have 10-30 oil in my car in the winter, preferring 5-30 oil for that. 10-30 changes to molasses at 40 below, ha ha. But the other issue is the fact that I never ride my bike in the winter, anyway. And it's complicated to change oil seasonally since it means at least two changes per year, which is more than I do for my rarely used bike. So, for my bike, I use the same all the time. Cheers!
This was the only option for 10-40 non-synthetic motor oil at the store I went to. The filter I used was a NAPA filter but I've used Canadian tire for them as well. I have no experience with the red filters you describe. I used to use Fram filters but more recently I've drifted away from them because of quality concerns.
You make a really good point, and I have to confess that when I'm on the road that's the way I check it if I don't have a level. Tipped on it's side the level should be near the top. A center stand would be great. Thanks for your comment.
Yeah, I've seen many very experienced guys do that, too. But in my distant past I tipped a bike over, and I'll never forget how heavy it was when I let mechanical advantage tip away. Thank you for your comment!
I've done clutch repairs on two Vulcan 1500 motorcycles, the first one at 12,000, and again at 30,000 miles and another at 13,000. The first one was for a clutch spring which wore out and again changed a second time before I sold the bike,It was a 2000 model. I bought a 2002 a few years later and had to replace the same spring and the clutch pack. I added a disk that was thicker than the stock thickness to improve clutch engagement. I would have used a clutch spring from a mean streak but they did not have one in stock. I believe the Vulcan suffers from some poor engineering with the clutch spring, it wears out way too often. Having said all of that, I wanted to say that the reason I was given for clutch plate failure is the use of any oil other than the oil that is offered by Kawasaki. Any additives that are found in any other oil will destroy the clutch. I'm not one to believe everything I hear but I know I'm getting tired of working on the clutch, the nut that holds it is a real bear to break loose. I bought a half inch impact wrench and a new compressor just in case I need it.
Your note adds an interesting discussion point to the thread and I hope others comment on it. You raise a very good point that when fluid is multi-purposed, as it is in the Vulcan, fluid quality is even more important. The engineering constraints have to be spectacular, and of course changing oil regularly can only help that. It's a thoughtful remark to wonder if some additives may actually worsen clutch performance, since motor oil is not really designed for the clutch. I don't know, although after 18 years and (only) 16,000 miles I haven't yet had to work on the clutch, except to replace the cable. Yeah, your experience with burning clutches is unusual. Often burned clutch plates can be from driving habits or clutch cable issues, but in your case the though of a weak spring design is convincing. Thanks for adding your comment here!
spelunkerd Your welcome, I would add that I purchased the second bike used with 12,800 on it. I paid what I thought was a premium price for it because it was in what looked like good condition. As you can see it did not take long for the clutch to self destruct. I have no idea what he was using for motor oil but the clutch plates were really a mess. When I called him to let him know that the clutch was fried he told me that it was a good thing I was able to do the work myself and save myself labor costs. I guess he figured that since I did the work and saved myself money, that he did not need to offer anything to help because he did not . Nice Guy!
I have a 1996 Vulcan 1500 classic and it should have been recalled with Kawasaki admitting a screw up.I have had constant clutch problems, frozen twice while in the middle of a ride.Just froze again for the third time.Bike is well maintained and treated with care it is just an awful flaw .
I'm glad it helped, Sonja. You'll find that the basic principles are similar across many vehicles. Thanks for watching, and thank you for the sub. Dave
great video, very detailed and thorough. A much better way to check your oil level is to get a motorcycle lift. the lift will hold the bike in an upright position. Then your bike will be at a nice working height too.
Don't know, sorry. My friends consider me a luddite, since I normally reach for natural oil. However newer engines are designed around thinner oils that can get into areas where natural oil won't go unless hot.
As I recall the manual calls for 10-30 oil, but you should double check that for yours. It does partly depend on what the ambient temperature is, with oils better for cold weather being useful in cold climates. But since I park my bike in the winter, I have used 10-30. I have not used synthetic oil.
I went back to the 95 Vulcan OEM dealers manual made by Kawasaki, and in the manual is a photo showing that I have placed the screen correctly. It's always been like that in my bike. The screen is like a thimble, fitting over my finger with the open (neoprene) end pointing to the left of the bike. Yours may be different -- maybe they changed the design. Because of your remark, I'll add a note to the video explaining that. Thanks for your input!
Jacek, I posted that exact video today. I gave you a shoutout of thanks for suggesting I do that video, it was fun to make. I'll apologize in advance for my horrible Canadian accent and my terrible pronounciation of your name. Cheers! Dave
Great video. I had no clue about the screen. Even if mine is fairly clean, taking it out will help remove more of the old oil. A must do for me from now on...
Great job! Good old Canadian Tire motor oil........ I guess I'm spoiled; I use a Condor Pit Stop wheel chock. You can work on my bike any day! Thanks a lot
I appreciate the advice. I will probably pick up that filter you have in the video. Although my current filter is the HF303, I have that same filter (yours in the video) saved in a note written in my User Manual. I'll stick with what works. Thanks again.
Gee, another good idea. On some engines I use a removable metal or plastic flange to cover sensitive parts like sensors, wire connectors or universal joints that may immediately underneath the filter. Masking tape might be simpler and more versatile....
We're in the motorcycle oil thread, Jarid. I'll respond over there in the spedo cable thread, so that others can see record of the dialogue in the future.
I don't know that bike, but most of the suggestions apply to all vehicles. The most common possibly serious mistake is the oversight, like forgetting to check your work. Thanks for your comment, Jarid.
Good point, too much oil causes foam that can rise to the level of a vent and contaminate parts that don't want oil. Very old bikes vented straight to the ground, but newer ones vent to the carb. If the drain hose kinks or plugs, the air filter will sit in a little lake of oil. Mine doesn't seem to have a PCV valve so that may be an issue too.
The first thing i did when i bought my 800 was change the oil. Would you believe i got just under 5 litres out of it ! No idea how the engine hadn't got hydraulic lock but i was glad i found out early on !
Yeah, and I think it's pretty common for people to underfill as well, not realizing that the bike needs to be level when they use the sight glass. Fortunately most vehicles are designed to allow some latitude. Thank you for watching!
Re: removing seal on oil filter.. listen up folks. It can happen. Never happened on any of my bikes BUT it did happen on my 89 Ford Ranger. Luckily when I backed it out of the garage I looked in front of me and saw the oil trail. Barely any left on the stick but no damage. If changing the oil & filter the proper amount is 3.2 qts. I have a clear 2 gallon plastic container and marked it at the 1 qt and 2 qt level with a black sharpie. No guessing. Added bonus is that a lot of riding mowers use 2 qts as well although they state 1.9 liter which comes out to 2 qts.
Nate Ngzcaz Sage advice! Wisdom is almost always a product of experience from misadventure. I had a similar 'near miss' experience. Regarding your advice to use a graduated flask, that's what I do, too. I keep a 5 litre container with marks on it for each vehicle, and it makes the oil change so much easier.
The basics are the same for all four stroke engines, but if you buy it you should get a copy of the dealers manual (not just the owners manual). Inexpensive copies of those repair manuals are often for sale on ebay. I don't own the 2003 so I can't give you more detail than that.
Yeah, sounds a little preachy in retrospect. But it's a critical point, sometimes not emphasized enough for those who try to learn mechanics through a computer screen. There aren't many ways to screw this task up, but a double gasket is one. Quick lube shops carry liability insurance, and I am told that this is one of the most common reasons for a major claim. Thanks for your comment!
That's a great idea, I'll give it some thought. Unfortunately real estate in the garage is at a premium, since I have so many toys (uhm, I mean tools, grin). On my bike the required volume is printed on the transmission block, but it's only a guideline.
That's a good idea. Do you find the bike a little unstable with the stand raised? Thanks for your comment. Yes, I've never used synthetic oil in any vehicle, yet. But with the rapidly falling price, I would not be surprised if 'natural' oil gets expensive and hard to find in the future.
The plugs are fairly easy on this bike, and i'm not planning one in the near future. But I did replace the plugs on my Dodge Ram and I recorded that. If interested, search my channel, "Dodge Ram tuneup". It's important to have dielectric grease. And some, but not all, recommend antiseize on the threads. Plug manufacturers have drifted away from antiseize lately because of concern about stripping threads on the cylinder. Be really careful not to cross-thread the plugs, (don't ask how I know).
About once every year somebody remarks that their oil screen is put in with the opposite orientation, with the open end of their screen on the inside. This happens often enough that I suspect recent models of the Vulcan may have the opposite orientation for the screen. I went back to verify that I did it correctly. In the official 1995 Kawasaki dealers service manual, on exploded diagram 6-2 and the photograph on page 6-6, the service manual clearly show that mine is assembled correctly in the above video. This fits with my experience, since I did the first service on this bike and it was assembled that way from the factory. Not one of those who have commented in this thread were able to quote factory service manuals or technical service bulletins to back up the claim that the screen is in backwards. If your screen is installed with the opposite orientation, I would make no change until you take the time to consult with your own official factory service manual, since year of manufacture may be important. If anyone comes across more objective information from Kawasaki, please take the time to provide links to that information here. I'm sure many who stop by will be interested.
Not true
@@natalijaly456 That reference you quote agrees with what I have said for the VN800, read the last lines. Whenever you search for information on your bike, go directly to the source, the OEM dealers repair manual, not aftermarket websites that apply to many years and many models. I have done that for the VN800, see the discussion thread for more information. If your bike is different, I probably wouldn't change it, but don't be so confident you are doing it correctly until you consult your OEM dealers repair manual.
Good day sir. Love the videos keep them coming... I have a 2004 Vulcan classic 1500 and the book tells me to have the open end with O-ring in first..
For those who don't own a factory service manual, I recently discovered that Kawasaki have taken the time to publish detailed parts diagrams collated by year, and offer them online for free. Those part diagrams will show your screen orientation. I found mine in that list, again demonstrating the screen orientation for my year is correct in the video. They also sell full online factory service manuals at the relatively inexpensive price of about $60, which is a bargain for those who work on their own bike.
I have a 2000 Kawasaki Vulcan vn800 I was wondering exactly how many quarts of oil do I put in it when I change oil and filter.
Been building Harleys and Triumphs since mid seventie. Got creamed by a drunk on 9/11. Met a friend of a friend who had a 2002 Vulcan. In 03 that was the first bike I rode after my 9/11. I was amazed at the v-twin, sound and over all nice style. 2014 my uncle came across a 2005 Vulcan. At 72 hes not into motorcycles so I bought it for a couple grand. What a revelation. This machine is awesome. Thanks for the tips. Ride safe..
Sir,, honesly, first time i see the mirror with the bubble balance idea,😅 good when you're alone. I have the same bike in P.R. nice video,,👍
I just changed the oil on my 2004 800 Vulcan. To keep the bike leveled I just screwed in two hooks into the studs of my garage walls. I used ratched straps to the handle bars and the hooks and adjusted the level of the bike. Quick and simple.
I used a motorcycle jack.
Here’s my suggestion for not only checking the oil level while the bike is standing straight up, but for doing the oil change, and changing other lubes as well: Go to Sears, and spend the $100.00 on a Motorcycle Jack Stand. It’s short money on the benefits you will reap from having it. It’s the most valuable tool you’ll ever buy for working on your bike. It stands it straight up, elevates it up off the floor securely with ratchet straps in 3 different preferred heights for a good working position, and you’ll use it for countless different jobs while working on your bike. I got mine several years ago after a friend’s suggestion and I’m so glad I did. It’s not very large, easy to stow away, and has been invaluable on a dozen different bike projects. You can even use it to work on other things like lawn tractors and such. Check it out, and you can thank me later! Great video, and thanks for the tutorial! Safe riding!!!
I have one, I agree. Makes oiling the chain so much easier, and other jobs like wheel removal are a snap.
Thanks for the video. Helped me change in my 2007 Vulcan Nomad 1600. I got a J&S jack when I bought my bike a month ago from the previous owner. Not to give a plug here, but the J&S jack is the best thing I have ever used. Came with an oil drain plate and everything. Go check out the video on their website, you might think it's bull s***, but I did it. I sat on the front wheel of my bike with it off the ground, and sat on the back seat while up on the stand. Stable as a rock. I was completely blown away. The video is accurate. No false advertising here. It is a 500 dollar jack, so I guess it should be damn good.
Great instruction by the way. Just bought my first ever bike and it is a Vulcan 800. I don’t have any experience with engines and such so I found This video very easy to grasp and step by step in a easy way
I must say that the guy rocks for being so specific with the procedures. I have never owned a Motorcycle up to now and have lots to learn as I like to do the maintenance myself. Great job mister. I feel more comfortable, thanks to you! Al from Canada
Thanks, man(from Victoria, BC, ha ha)!
spelunkerd Nice! The beautiful BC Haha!
Thank you so much for this video. As a female rider it's important to not only become familiar with my bike but also understand and perform basic maintenance. I will be changing my oil this weekend. Thanks again!
You’re like the Bob Ross of bikes. Thanks for the great vid! About to do my first oil change on my 01 vn800a soon.
Spelunkerd…Thanks for the Great Video. I have a 98 Vulcan 800. Changed the oil today. Add these tips. 1. I do not recommend Synthetic oil as this bike has a Wet Clutch. Possible to burn up the clutch. 2. When draining the oil, that washer under the drain plug drops into my catch pan. Be sure to find it. 3. I hate draining oil onto my starter when removing the filter. Take a Paper Towel roll center carboard and cut it just shorter than the Filter. Then cut it open and place it under the filter. With this I only dripped one drop onto my starter. 4. I put a 2x4 under the kick stand. This gets it almost level. Then I can tilt it the last bit with one hand on the handlebar and one hand on the kickstand. 5. That big square ignition key is the tool for removing the oil fill plug.
I just bought a 2008 Vulcan 2000. Your video was informative enough that anyone can do this simple task. Your step by step instructions are very good. And I too use your leveling method when checking the fluid level.
Travis -- Texas
I used your video to change the oil and filter in my Vulcan 500 today. There were a few differences from your video to my small bike, of course, but it was extremely helpful. Thank you!
Thanks mate. Just changed the oil & filter on my '09 vn900 and your vid helped me do it confidently. Workshop manuals are good, but actually watching someone do it is best.
Yeah, I agree. Thanks for the feedback.
I'm about to be taught how to change the oil in my 2001 Drifter this weekend and it is helping me to much by watching this video and knowing ahead what I'm about to do. Thank you! Sonya from Maine. :)
You sir have quickly earned a new subscriber, I recently purchased a 2006 Vulcan 500 and there are a few small issues I need dealing with before I get it out on the road . #1 being the oil and how to change the oil. I now have confidence to change the oil and to make sure it is done correctly thanks to your video and channel, best regards from Lloyd and once again thank you.
Well done !! The weather was great for a bike this year so far. This is how I measure the fluid for every piece of machinery I have. I actually measure once the right amount of fluid , eng oil , gear oil, power steering ect and pour it into a translucent plastic container with a removable lid and mark the required amount on the side. Each container is labeled for each specific machine. I have a shelf with 10 containers ready to go for the next fluid change. Works for me.
i just got a 1995 vulcan 800 and am about to change oil. saw your vidio and was amazed at finding out about the screen, thanks i had no idea it was there... i even watched your video about coolant change. thanks so much for your video's...
Nice video!! Voice was clear and audible. Information was spot on. Video quality was amazing. 10/10 on my end. Keep it up!!
Thank you!
I have a Goldwing as you can see in my picture- but I just bought a 1500 1992 KAWASAKI that I will try and bring back to life . I have learned a lot from videos like yours so thanks for your input on the oil change it was very helpful. APJ
albert Pilot Thanks, man!
Many thanks brother! 18 years old just got my first 95 vulcan 750. This really perked up the old girl!
+DreadsGaming You'll be happy, it's a great bike. Very little repair work needed over the years. Thanks for stopping by!
Excellent video --- I'll be changing the oil on my Vulcan 800 tomorrow morning for the first time. Thanks a bunch!
Great idea, Jack, I'll do it next time. For some reason I haven't had the cooling system problems with my bike that I normally see with larger engines. The coolant drain plug is at the bottom of the crankcase, near the oil drain plug. You just remove the plug, open the top coolant filler cap, and let it drain. Then siphon the reservoir. Volume is small, as I guess I would expect. Like a gas engine you want to burp the system with cap off for the first cycle.
i just found it after i posted this. THANKS A TON!!! you are the best! i watch all your videos about the Kawasaki to get a basic idea on my 05 Kawasaki Vulcan 800. thanks again!
Great video thank you . I have watched it again and again. Very clear instructions and camera work. Brilliant thank you .
Thanks!
On my 93 Vulcan 750 I use the center stand to level the bike. To check the oil level. Great video.
Those are wise remarks, in many ways. One day I let a bike tip over, and I felt like an idiot to put myself in that position, so I'm really cautious now. Thanks for your contribution.
0:30 Make an oil deflector out of aluminum foil. It's super easy to shape and jam into place!
Well done . Thank you very much. Now if you own the bike for a long time all you need to do is remember how much oil it takes that way you won’t need to check every time you change oil .
Thank you. Yes, I print the volume needed for each vehicle on the bottom of a measuring container used exclusively for oil. The other thing to remember is to wrap that container well so dirt from the garage can't contaminate the new oil.
I have ignored the oil screen filter for 15k miles. I will check that screen on the next oil change. Thanks for the video.
Although i clean the screen each time I have found very little debris in it. When you do it, pay attention to the orientation of the screen, and reproduce that when you reinstall it. Some viewers here have described their model having a screen that is installed the opposite way. Mine came the way I show it from the factory and also I have a copy of the official dealers manual that showed the installation as I did it here. But, other models may be different.
That's good advice, I do that on some vehicles. On my bike there is very little spillage and it's easy to wipe off what doesn't fall in the pan.
Great Job, I have a 2008 VN 1600 Vulcan Nomad. You gave me great instructions to change my own oil and oil filter. Thanks again.
+Christian Nomad Thank you, I appreciate the feedback.
Precise, Well Explained, Direct and most of all INCREDIBLY HELPFUL & EDUCATIONAL. Thank you kindly sir!
What a kind remark, thank you! I'm doing a video now on how to adjust valve lash in this bike. I hope you stay tuned, it should be out later in the week.
I'll stay tuned! I just acquired my very first bike. A 1997 Vulcan 800 Classic ☺️
In regards to making bike level to check oil, I made a 5 inch high block that is 6" wide by 8" long to put under the kickstand to level bike. That way, I can get down and inspect the oil level glass without any problems. I can also get under bike to see if there are any issues under the bike. I found this much better than the level and mirror that was used in the video.
Very thorough video, thank you! I don't think many people pull and clean the oil screen, great to know! It is not even in my Owner's manual for my 2009 VN900 Classic LT, but it is in the service manual I downloaded. I doubt most of these shops charging $100-$200 for an oil change do it either.
+ncmcgoverns Ya, agreed. I haven't found much debris in my screen and I suppose it would be possible to skip it. Cleaning the screen is described as a step for routine oil change in the dealer repair manual, so I included it. Thanks for watching.
Hi, thanks for this video. I was desperatly looking for the oil screen on my bike. Now my bike maintenance is done!
I also place a piece of masking tape just below the oil filter on the block and attach 6 mill plastic to the back of tape and let it hang down to prevent oil from dripping on starter ect.
Makes clean up easier .
Thanks, Mario. Next time I do it I'll video the effort, but it may be a couple of years. One thing to note is that my Vulcan doesn't have a fuel filter, so if you are having problems with the carb clogging up you might consider putting a fuel filter in line, if yours doesn't either. I did that when my carb got dirty and it hasn't been a problems since then.
(continued) You've raised a very interesting point. Although mine is correct for my bike when it was manufactured, I wonder if Kawasaki changed the design. There has never been enough debris in the screen for me to see if it collects on the inside or the outside of the screen. The direction of oil flow through the screen would be a factor there. Practical issues such as difficulty getting it out and ease of cleaning may be factors as well. If yours is fitted differently, I would not change it.
Great video. I watched the same video last year before changing my oil. I a going to change my oil again and returned to the video for a refresher. Thanks.
Thanks, man!
Thanks for the video. Planning to do my own oil change on a Used 07 Vulcan 1600 classic. That from the looks of the battery I later saw after bringing her home. Was caked with white acid flakes. So again. THANK YOU
Thanks! Nicely done. For checking your oil level, you may want to consider a center stand or jack for the bike.
As I recall it was about 3 1/2 litres, but I would check the manual for your bike. I have a large pail with marks for each vehicle I service, and I just fill the pail to the respective line, and it's usually about right. Most importantly you want to recheck levels over the coming days.
Yeah, I do have a small lift, but for a cruizer it is not so stable, and of course it's a pain to set up. One thing that is useful is the fact that when the meniscus is at the top of the site glass while the bike is on the stand, that corresponds to a 'not low' level when I carefully level it. So, at the gas station when I often have a glance at the glass at least I know I'm not too low, and I can check it often with no effort and no tools. Thanks for your input!
You're welcome, Tony. I'm glad you found it useful.
Dave
Thanks for your feedback, I'm glad it helped. Ya, a center stand would be great. The portable center stands are great for little bikes, but I've never seen them with one of these big bikes.
Perfect DIY method! Thanks for your great efforts and initiative. This video helps a lot of newbies here.
xFWWONGx Thanks, man.
Thank you, sir! Just bought an '86 and you've helped me immensely.
You're welcome, I'm glad it helped.
enjoyed your oil change video. i just started playing with my 08 vulcan classic 900lt. installed a baron BAK. trying to figure out the reason the FI light is staying on but in the meantime, an oil change is on the quick list. Your vid is extremely thorough and comprehensive. Nice job.
Good job on your video. I have a classic 1500 and I am getting ready to change the oil. Your video was a great place to start.
I really appreciate your style. Informative, simple, relaxed. I learned a few tricks on this viewing. Much obliged!
Yes, up here in Canada we normally use cold weather oil for winter use. I try to never have 10-30 oil in my car in the winter, preferring 5-30 oil for that. 10-30 changes to molasses at 40 below, ha ha. But the other issue is the fact that I never ride my bike in the winter, anyway. And it's complicated to change oil seasonally since it means at least two changes per year, which is more than I do for my rarely used bike. So, for my bike, I use the same all the time. Cheers!
Thank you,I used your video to change the oil of my vulcan,it helped me a lot
This was the only option for 10-40 non-synthetic motor oil at the store I went to. The filter I used was a NAPA filter but I've used Canadian tire for them as well. I have no experience with the red filters you describe. I used to use Fram filters but more recently I've drifted away from them because of quality concerns.
You make a really good point, and I have to confess that when I'm on the road that's the way I check it if I don't have a level. Tipped on it's side the level should be near the top. A center stand would be great. Thanks for your comment.
Great video! Well lit, great camera angles, and very well edited!!
Yeah, I've seen many very experienced guys do that, too. But in my distant past I tipped a bike over, and I'll never forget how heavy it was when I let mechanical advantage tip away. Thank you for your comment!
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate your response.
I've done clutch repairs on two Vulcan 1500 motorcycles, the first one at 12,000, and again at 30,000 miles and another at 13,000. The first one was for a clutch spring which wore out and again changed a second time before I sold the bike,It was a 2000 model. I bought a 2002 a few years later and had to replace the same spring and the clutch pack. I added a disk that was thicker than the stock thickness to improve clutch engagement. I would have used a clutch spring from a mean streak but they did not have one in stock.
I believe the Vulcan suffers from some poor engineering with the clutch spring, it wears out way too often. Having said all of that, I wanted to say that the reason I was given for clutch plate failure is the use of any oil other than the oil that is offered by Kawasaki.
Any additives that are found in any other oil will destroy the clutch. I'm not one to believe everything I hear but I know I'm getting tired of working on the clutch, the nut that holds it is a real bear to break loose. I bought a half inch impact wrench and a new compressor just in case I need it.
Your note adds an interesting discussion point to the thread and I hope others comment on it. You raise a very good point that when fluid is multi-purposed, as it is in the Vulcan, fluid quality is even more important. The engineering constraints have to be spectacular, and of course changing oil regularly can only help that. It's a thoughtful remark to wonder if some additives may actually worsen clutch performance, since motor oil is not really designed for the clutch. I don't know, although after 18 years and (only) 16,000 miles I haven't yet had to work on the clutch, except to replace the cable.
Yeah, your experience with burning clutches is unusual. Often burned clutch plates can be from driving habits or clutch cable issues, but in your case the though of a weak spring design is convincing. Thanks for adding your comment here!
spelunkerd Your welcome, I would add that I purchased the second bike used with 12,800 on it. I paid what I thought was a premium price for it because it was in what looked like good condition. As you can see it did not take long for the clutch to self destruct.
I have no idea what he was using for motor oil but the clutch plates were really a mess. When I called him to let him know that the clutch was fried he told me that it was a good thing I was able to do the work myself and save myself labor costs.
I guess he figured that since I did the work and saved myself money, that he did not need to offer anything to help because he did not . Nice Guy!
I have a 1996 Vulcan 1500 classic and it should have been recalled with Kawasaki admitting a screw up.I have had constant clutch problems, frozen twice while in the middle of a ride.Just froze again for the third time.Bike is well maintained and treated with care it is just an awful flaw .
I'm glad it helped, Sonja. You'll find that the basic principles are similar across many vehicles. Thanks for watching, and thank you for the sub.
Dave
You're welcome, and thank you for participating.
great video, very detailed and thorough. A much better way to check your oil level is to get a motorcycle lift. the lift will hold the bike in an upright position. Then your bike will be at a nice working height too.
That's a good point, I have a lift. When I bother to set it up, checking oil is a breeze.
Perhaps you know if a 2004 Kawasaki Vulcan Ltd en500 uses conventional oil or synthetic oil.
Don't know, sorry. My friends consider me a luddite, since I normally reach for natural oil. However newer engines are designed around thinner oils that can get into areas where natural oil won't go unless hot.
Thanks for taking the time and making this video... I"m always worried about my oil level and now I can easily check it thanks to you !
Thank you, for the feedback.
Brilliant video thanks for much help with my own 2005 vn800 really helpful gaz
I use a motor cycle jack to bring my bike upright, you can check it for level if you want. As long as the floors level you shouldn’t have a issue
As I recall the manual calls for 10-30 oil, but you should double check that for yours. It does partly depend on what the ambient temperature is, with oils better for cold weather being useful in cold climates. But since I park my bike in the winter, I have used 10-30. I have not used synthetic oil.
Never noticed the level.... I've only had my vulcan a few months and am due to change the oil, thanks for the intel ;)
Thank you for the good quality and informative video. It made watching it pleasurable.
When I need to get the bike level I just put it on a motorcycle jack stand it works just fine I like your video
I went back to the 95 Vulcan OEM dealers manual made by Kawasaki, and in the manual is a photo showing that I have placed the screen correctly. It's always been like that in my bike. The screen is like a thimble, fitting over my finger with the open (neoprene) end pointing to the left of the bike.
Yours may be different -- maybe they changed the design. Because of your remark, I'll add a note to the video explaining that. Thanks for your input!
Jacek, I posted that exact video today. I gave you a shoutout of thanks for suggesting I do that video, it was fun to make. I'll apologize in advance for my horrible Canadian accent and my terrible pronounciation of your name.
Cheers!
Dave
Great video. I had no clue about the screen. Even if mine is fairly clean, taking it out will help remove more of the old oil. A must do for me from now on...
freddie dever I'm glad it helped, thanks.
Thank you for the update I just bought my and am doing the oil change and your video cam in very handy 😉
Great video, clear and articulate. 5 stars !
Sridhar Subramanian I appreciate your kind remark.
Great job! Good old Canadian Tire motor oil........ I guess I'm spoiled; I use a Condor Pit Stop wheel chock. You can work on my bike any day! Thanks a lot
DId this yesterday on my 98 VN800B3, thanks a lot for the Vid, helped a lot!
Thanks for including the OIL SCREEN in your video, I did'nt know about this ! ...Keith.
enjoyed the video, Try jack stands under the highway pegs to level the bike. They work well if one doesn't have a lift table.
I appreciate the advice. I will probably pick up that filter you have in the video. Although my current filter is the HF303, I have that same filter (yours in the video) saved in a note written in my User Manual. I'll stick with what works. Thanks again.
Still a great video in 2020. Thank you for this.
Gee, another good idea. On some engines I use a removable metal or plastic flange to cover sensitive parts like sensors, wire connectors or universal joints that may immediately underneath the filter. Masking tape might be simpler and more versatile....
We're in the motorcycle oil thread, Jarid. I'll respond over there in the spedo cable thread, so that others can see record of the dialogue in the future.
I don't know that bike, but most of the suggestions apply to all vehicles. The most common possibly serious mistake is the oversight, like forgetting to check your work. Thanks for your comment, Jarid.
You're welcome, thanks for the feedback.
It is best to run the oil about half way in the view window. If too high it gets oil in the air filter.
Good point, too much oil causes foam that can rise to the level of a vent and contaminate parts that don't want oil. Very old bikes vented straight to the ground, but newer ones vent to the carb. If the drain hose kinks or plugs, the air filter will sit in a little lake of oil. Mine doesn't seem to have a PCV valve so that may be an issue too.
Great video. Do you check the screen on every oil change?
I have a 2002 vulcan 1500 classic, thank you so much for the video. It was very helpful and thanks again.
The first thing i did when i bought my 800 was change the oil. Would you believe i got just under 5 litres out of it ! No idea how the engine hadn't got hydraulic lock but i was glad i found out early on !
Yeah, and I think it's pretty common for people to underfill as well, not realizing that the bike needs to be level when they use the sight glass. Fortunately most vehicles are designed to allow some latitude. Thank you for watching!
Re: removing seal on oil filter.. listen up folks. It can happen. Never happened on any of my bikes BUT it did happen on my 89 Ford Ranger. Luckily when I backed it out of the garage I looked in front of me and saw the oil trail. Barely any left on the stick but no damage. If changing the oil & filter the proper amount is 3.2 qts. I have a clear 2 gallon plastic container and marked it at the 1 qt and 2 qt level with a black sharpie. No guessing. Added bonus is that a lot of riding mowers use 2 qts as well although they state 1.9 liter which comes out to 2 qts.
Nate Ngzcaz Sage advice! Wisdom is almost always a product of experience from misadventure. I had a similar 'near miss' experience.
Regarding your advice to use a graduated flask, that's what I do, too. I keep a 5 litre container with marks on it for each vehicle, and it makes the oil change so much easier.
That's a good thought. I've been thinking about making one, and I like the Heindl design, but I haven't got around to it.
The basics are the same for all four stroke engines, but if you buy it you should get a copy of the dealers manual (not just the owners manual). Inexpensive copies of those repair manuals are often for sale on ebay. I don't own the 2003 so I can't give you more detail than that.
Did not know about that filter and spring. Thanks. Good job
Yeah, sounds a little preachy in retrospect. But it's a critical point, sometimes not emphasized enough for those who try to learn mechanics through a computer screen. There aren't many ways to screw this task up, but a double gasket is one. Quick lube shops carry liability insurance, and I am told that this is one of the most common reasons for a major claim. Thanks for your comment!
That's a great idea, I'll give it some thought. Unfortunately real estate in the garage is at a premium, since I have so many toys (uhm, I mean tools, grin). On my bike the required volume is printed on the transmission block, but it's only a guideline.
This was a very helpful and informative video thank you brother and I love your Vulcan
That's a good idea. Do you find the bike a little unstable with the stand raised? Thanks for your comment.
Yes, I've never used synthetic oil in any vehicle, yet. But with the rapidly falling price, I would not be surprised if 'natural' oil gets expensive and hard to find in the future.
Great simple video. Thanks a lot for making it. I'm going to change my oil today.
Thanks for the sub, Bobby. I appreciate your kind feedback.
Cool, Dony. It would be neat to see you tear into motorcycles as a side line.
The plugs are fairly easy on this bike, and i'm not planning one in the near future. But I did replace the plugs on my Dodge Ram and I recorded that. If interested, search my channel, "Dodge Ram tuneup". It's important to have dielectric grease. And some, but not all, recommend antiseize on the threads. Plug manufacturers have drifted away from antiseize lately because of concern about stripping threads on the cylinder. Be really careful not to cross-thread the plugs, (don't ask how I know).