Watching you torque down the bolts. When we were kids we rebuilt 289s, we didnt know what a torque wrench was ! We kept nothing in order, pistons just a piston, heck it can go into any hole, same with valves, replace head bolts fat chance on that one, didnt know you needed to. How they ever ran is beyond me. But we were able to run Low 12s in the quarter mile. Maybe Luck is on the side of the Ignorant. In our garage we heard alot of "are they all tight" tight as I can get em, great. Amazing what we got away with, and I cant remember one real failure. But maybe my brain has filed those into that cabinet way in the back, that rusty dark looking one that starts shaking when bring it up, its shaking now ! Think its so cool Vladimir watches your channel...Hes proud of you, but we all are, so get in line Vladimir, Hes ours now.
Charles Miller I agree with the just throwing pistons wherever... using whatever crank bearings. .. clearances? What's that? 😂😂 Yrah, it is amazing things ran back then, stayed together, and I had none blow up. Miss the good old days! !
Assembly Lube...Whats that We used to run high power A/C wire right into the Mains. Who needs a fricking breaker!! Put a disconnect switch on the A/C and your good to go. I once visited the NASA, display in Houston, Tx, they had a stage of the Saturn 5 Rocket, and you could see inside. I looked like some of the plumping out of a 1950s house, nothing like what I expected, really low tech. Yes, your right good times were had by all, even NASA. When I watched John Glenn go into space , it looked like on TV he was on a huge rocket, I stood next to the same type he used, A Red Stone Rocket. It was basically the same height as a Telephone Pole and twice a thick, it was so tiny to what my mind actually saw on that TV in 3rd grade class. There was a time when if the part was sold for that car, it worked, you didnt check clearances, hell I didnt know what a "clearance was". When we finished around 2/3 in the morning we would run it uncapped, neighbors loved us. Life was just so much more fun. Pregnant Wives would set around playing cards, smoking, and drinking beer. If your mom worked you lived in a poor family.No hardhats, safety glasses, or steel toed shoes. You could work on a dangerous job, with a t-shirt, shorts, and flip flops. 3/4 of the crew would smoke dope while they were working. We dont need no stinking drug tests . Gosh we turned into Europe.
Yes, I agree. These new engines are like watches. With all the problems of a watch. But they do run smooth, unlike some of the engines of the past. Its interesting to see what they are coming out with. I thought that it was totally going electric, but now Im not sure, to get cars off of fuel it could take 30 years or more, guess if Im around I will see what happens.
Remember the Geo Prizm engine rebuild, Charles? I got a hard time from the UA-cam watchdogs about not honing the cylinder walls and reusing pitted valves. Well guess what, 25k miles after the rebuid the Prizm still purrs, and doesn't use a DROP of oil!! 263k on the odometer now. It was just in my shop today...needs a new gas tank but runs great...even the original A/C freaking blows cold air hahaha
These have been a well documented series. Anyone who needs to tackle this job will be well informed. On a side note, I'm back from Germany and the Vantage is here. Thanks again for the fix! It will come in handy to try and identify why my 05 suddenly has a two cylinder misfire.
Thanks for a great video series. I just had to do that exact process on an 04 Forester and your video really clarified things for me. GREAT JOB! Thank you!. When I put the head bolts back in, since I don't have a torque wrench that measures angles, I made a cardboard cutout with a hole for the socket to go through and lines for 0, 30, 45, and 60 degrees. I got my wife to hold it in place for me at the 0 degree line and then I tightened each bolt to one of the lines and then reset back to zero and finished torquing to the closest degree. I feel like it is a lot more accurate than guessing and it worked well and cost me nothing, except an old piece of cardboard. Thanks again for the entire series; I'll watch more of your stuff just to see what else you're up to, since it was so informational.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics You are so welcome. I also meant to add that I think your camera shots are really well done too. So many guys who do this sort of thing have video that jumps all over the place or can't be see well. Your video seems to be the cause of good planning for both good views and good lighting. THAT is definitely something that sets you apart. When you're trying to show something to others that they haven't seen it is important to be able to see it well enough to tell what's going on, otherwise it only adds to the confusion. I hope others appreciate it as much as I do. Well Done and keep it up! There's no telling how many people you've already helped.
A pleasure to watch someone else do it. Myself being an engineer we never make mistakes right ? Apart from the first head I bolted down that started with 60 Lb/Ft and then required a 45 degree which I mistook and passed to 90 degree ! I did thing it was a bit tight as I needed a 4ft bar to turn it. That head wasn't going to blow again. Thanks Ivan
I worked for a Subaru dealer, we just did 30ft lbs, 50ft lbs and 70ft lbs on the 4 cylinder engines. and 25ft lbs, 50ft lbs and 60ft lbs on 6 cylinders. no doing degrees bs, too time consuming
I noticed that your torque specs are different from what I found on the Internet including Eric oh from South Main auto on his Subaru head, what I am finding is closer to 21 foot pounds first than 50 and I believe yours are somewhere around 33 and then to 70, are these both each 253 engines or am I missing something?
I literally cringed when I saw you start the head bolts with the air ratchet! 😅😅 I just have the habit of starting every nut, bolt, or threaded object by hand. My luck, I'd tear up or cross the threads if I don't.
Good video Ivan. Wow, you are braver than me, I would hav shoved some rags in the intake ports just in case I dropped something. Was working space in your shop an issue? I counted 7 more bolts to remove, to have the engine out on a stand to work on. You must have small hands to get in there ! LOL.
You know me Chris - every small part I handled would've ended up down inside there ... but only once everything was torqued, and mostly put back together. 😁
Nice - I'll check that one out. I'm always in a rush, so if I were to get one of these in here, I'd probably do what Ivan is doing, too ... except cursing the whole way through, LOL.
Those electronic angular measuring torque wrenches likeky use a MEMS micro-machined angular rate sensor like the ADXRS150 and do some integrating dtheta/dt.
What are the two little switches on the passenger side back part of the head? I see through the editing you added on of them and talk briefly about the second one at the end of the video. One of these is leaking oil on my Subaru and I am having a hard time finding out about these two parts.
I use the genuine Subaru *turbo* head gaskets on NA engines (permanent fix, different design MLS) and reuse the head bolts no problems just skip the stretch/undo stage, also use an old head bolt with cut threads to clean the block threads first. For manual owners its better to do the clutch by removing the engine leaving the gear box in and do the head gaskets at the same time, also make sure to reseal the piston/pcv plates and inspect the rear main seal (there usually fine).
That's a job really well done ivan :-D. I imagine that at the time you were releaved that the hardest part went back together loverly. I know you are a pro, but getting the job done must still be a tiny bit worrying.
OK thanks I'll try and look them up. The main point I'm stuck on is trying to avoid any air being sucked back into into the bleeder piope or through the bleeder nipple during the stage of closing the nipple after tghe other person has pumped the brake pedal.
Once rebuilt an Alfa Sud engine, a flat four twin over head cam unit not unlike the Scooby Doo Subaru. However I made the mistake of fitting a head gasket upside down. Fortunately I had a cup of tea before I torqued everything and was flicking this bit of exposed gasket and then the penny dropped. A simple error but when you’re focused on torque settings and getting bolts in the right order it is easy to overlook the obvious.
if the drill-bit is the same size as hole, running it backwards works pretty well for corrosion removal. also why didn't you put the valve cover with the face side down on plywood and just run the bit into it or up on a few blocks, seemed to be fighting it pretty hard lol
Is it a problem if the oil drips off the headbolt threads and onto the head gasket, block surface, or head surface as you try to place the head onto the block with the engine in the car?
That gasket would've fallen out of place on me 6 times in a row! I would've had to edit out the whole part because it would be one long tirade of expletives. 😂 Sometimes I think the forces of the Universe conspire against me ... Almost there!! I can almost smell the CO coming out of the tailpipe. 😎
stretching alternator belt, single use head bolts, ridiculous torquing sequence, head gaskets guaranteed to leak again in another 100k miles......can't wait to go out and buy my very own subaru!!
I ment it as a joke! but it has worked in the past pepper in the block coke in the battery and bananas in the diff or tail pipe! all have worked before
Ivan. Correct me if I'm wrong. I've read when you "oil the bolt threads" you can change the torque by 30 or 40%. So, those head bolts are tighter than what the torque wrench is set at? Or, does Subaru want you to lub the bolt threads and then proceed with their torque specs (which would take into consideration the lubed threads?) Just curious. I really enjoy your videos. Many thanks,
I always pull the engine. Hell, you're 90% there and it only takes about 10 or less minutes to pull the remaining hardware and hoses to remove the engine but it makes the whole process so much easier. Working in the confined space of the engine compartment just does not appeal to me. I would like to see the same mechanic do it both ways and see if there is much difference in time because I doubt there is any.
There’s a lot of comments saying good job this is a fucking abortion. You should never need to drill out factory holes and if you’ve done this a few times it’s only 6-8 hours removing the engine
Elabourite torquing procedure indeed!! -wonder if new bolts need pre tensioning -or dare you re-use old head bolts? I told YA PART 6 on horizon~~ -trust repair outlasts RUST
old bolts don't need pretension- bolts are already stretched- so you skip that part (according to a subi tech). Although it is recommended to install new bolts ($50 each side) it is not necessarily done in a dealership, billing is a different thing. Ivan what's your experience? BTW great video again as usual.
I've reused head bolts before. No big deal really. Just figured in this case might as well keep the audience happy and follow the manufacturers recommendations lol
I have NEVER bought NEW engine bolts-except when heads totally rounded off or threads super rusted -even down to oversized bearing caps on crankshaft -but possibly got away with stunts since both short block AND head were cast iron =recall doing MANY VEGA and 2.6 L Mitsubishi mills in Chryco minivans ENGINE swaps due to meltdown due to lousy design though
Part of the video was bit cringeworthy cuz I was afraid to see the head bolt was gonna snap or something. Sorry Ivan, I was thinking negative. But great job reassembling the engine up!
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics yep. Sure is lol. I snapped a bolt on Cummins engine. Using ARP studs. Expensive mistake. That's why I cringe at torquing the head bolts lol.
If you have the means to pull the engine out, and an engine stand to hold it while you tear it apart. The in-car method only requires basic hand tools and no heavy lifting ;)
Sweeeeet MAN, YOU could have edited out all your screw ups.. That stupid gasket, stuburn, little flea. Gina bite you any chance it gets... Lol... But cha don't. And that my friend make s you da man. Thanks for keeping it real
Watching you torque down the bolts. When we were kids we rebuilt 289s, we didnt know what a torque wrench was !
We kept nothing in order, pistons just a piston, heck it can go into any hole, same with valves, replace head bolts fat chance on that one, didnt know you needed to. How they ever ran is beyond me. But we were able to run Low 12s in the quarter mile. Maybe Luck is on the side of the Ignorant. In our garage we heard alot of "are they all tight" tight as I can get em, great. Amazing what we got away with, and I cant remember one real failure. But maybe my brain has filed those into that cabinet way in the back, that rusty dark looking one that starts shaking when bring it up, its shaking now !
Think its so cool Vladimir watches your channel...Hes proud of you, but we all are, so get in line Vladimir, Hes ours now.
Charles Miller I agree with the just throwing pistons wherever... using whatever crank bearings. .. clearances? What's that? 😂😂 Yrah, it is amazing things ran back then, stayed together, and I had none blow up. Miss the good old days! !
Assembly Lube...Whats that
We used to run high power A/C wire right into the Mains. Who needs a fricking breaker!!
Put a disconnect switch on the A/C and your good to go.
I once visited the NASA, display in Houston, Tx, they had a stage of the Saturn 5 Rocket, and you could see inside. I looked like some of the plumping out of a 1950s house, nothing like what I expected, really low tech.
Yes, your right good times were had by all, even NASA.
When I watched John Glenn go into space , it looked like on TV he was on a huge rocket, I stood next to the same type he used, A Red Stone Rocket. It was basically the same height as a Telephone Pole and twice a thick, it was so tiny to what my mind actually saw on that TV in 3rd grade class.
There was a time when if the part was sold for that car, it worked, you didnt check clearances, hell I didnt know what a "clearance was". When we finished around 2/3 in the morning we would run it uncapped, neighbors loved us.
Life was just so much more fun. Pregnant Wives would set around playing cards, smoking, and drinking beer.
If your mom worked you lived in a poor family.No hardhats, safety glasses, or steel toed shoes. You could work on a dangerous job, with a t-shirt, shorts, and flip flops. 3/4 of the crew would smoke dope while they were working. We dont need no stinking drug tests . Gosh we turned into Europe.
Cast iron block, steel heads, low compression, non interference, and pushrods. Big differences!
Yes, I agree. These new engines are like watches. With all the problems of a watch. But they do run smooth, unlike some of the engines of the past. Its interesting to see what they are coming out with. I thought that it was totally going electric, but now Im not sure, to get cars off of fuel it could take 30 years or more, guess if Im around I will see what happens.
Remember the Geo Prizm engine rebuild, Charles? I got a hard time from the UA-cam watchdogs about not honing the cylinder walls and reusing pitted valves.
Well guess what, 25k miles after the rebuid the Prizm still purrs, and doesn't use a DROP of oil!! 263k on the odometer now. It was just in my shop today...needs a new gas tank but runs great...even the original A/C freaking blows cold air hahaha
These have been a well documented series. Anyone who needs to tackle this job will be well informed. On a side note, I'm back from Germany and the Vantage is here. Thanks again for the fix! It will come in handy to try and identify why my 05 suddenly has a two cylinder misfire.
Lining up the head gasket while attaching the head, the real life struggle. Nice job ivan
Especially when it's freaking hanging vertically...who designed this crap xD
I find myself asking that question at a high volume, complete with expletives, on a daily basis ...
Thanks for a great video series. I just had to do that exact process on an 04 Forester and your video really clarified things for me. GREAT JOB! Thank you!. When I put the head bolts back in, since I don't have a torque wrench that measures angles, I made a cardboard cutout with a hole for the socket to go through and lines for 0, 30, 45, and 60 degrees. I got my wife to hold it in place for me at the 0 degree line and then I tightened each bolt to one of the lines and then reset back to zero and finished torquing to the closest degree. I feel like it is a lot more accurate than guessing and it worked well and cost me nothing, except an old piece of cardboard. Thanks again for the entire series; I'll watch more of your stuff just to see what else you're up to, since it was so informational.
Thanks for the kind words Curt! Glad the video was helpful :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics You are so welcome. I also meant to add that I think your camera shots are really well done too. So many guys who do this sort of thing have video that jumps all over the place or can't be see well. Your video seems to be the cause of good planning for both good views and good lighting. THAT is definitely something that sets you apart. When you're trying to show something to others that they haven't seen it is important to be able to see it well enough to tell what's going on, otherwise it only adds to the confusion. I hope others appreciate it as much as I do. Well Done and keep it up! There's no telling how many people you've already helped.
A pleasure to watch someone else do it. Myself being an engineer we never make mistakes right ? Apart from the first head I bolted down that started with 60 Lb/Ft and then required a 45 degree which I mistook and passed to 90 degree ! I did thing it was a bit tight as I needed a 4ft bar to turn it. That head wasn't going to blow again. Thanks Ivan
That head bolt torque sequence is ridiculous
I worked for a Subaru dealer, we just did 30ft lbs, 50ft lbs and 70ft lbs on the 4 cylinder engines. and 25ft lbs, 50ft lbs and 60ft lbs on 6 cylinders. no doing degrees bs, too time consuming
Nice progress Ivan. Thanks!
*BEAUTIFUL WORK*
Thank you! I take pride in my work :)
Dr O teach this protege the magic of brake clean!
I noticed that your torque specs are different from what I found on the Internet including Eric oh from South Main auto on his Subaru head, what I am finding is closer to 21 foot pounds first than 50 and I believe yours are somewhere around 33 and then to 70, are these both each 253 engines or am I missing something?
Me puedes mandar una foto de tu manual por favor 🙏
Nice job, Ivan.
Thanks for the motivation! Editing these videos is almost like doing the whole job over again lol
Everything is harder when you have two jobs.
Subaru Mike in Arizona uses the old head bolts, with felpro,gaskets, he said Subaru shops do also
I literally cringed when I saw you start the head bolts with the air ratchet! 😅😅 I just have the habit of starting every nut, bolt, or threaded object by hand. My luck, I'd tear up or cross the threads if I don't.
Cuba Rodriguez have you ever met Ivan before?
Good video Ivan. Wow, you are braver than me, I would hav shoved some rags in the intake ports just in case I dropped something. Was working space in your shop an issue? I counted 7 more bolts to remove, to have the engine out on a stand to work on. You must have small hands to get in there ! LOL.
You know me Chris - every small part I handled would've ended up down inside there ... but only once everything was torqued, and mostly put back together. 😁
Yeah, Smitty, thats why I pull the H4 out and put it on a stand, before I work on it. I got another H4 I will be videoing here in the near future.
Nice - I'll check that one out.
I'm always in a rush, so if I were to get one of these in here, I'd probably do what Ivan is doing, too ... except cursing the whole way through, LOL.
Those aren't tty bolts and they dont stretch that sequence is the preload the gasket fyi you dont need to replace those bolts
Great video Ivan keep them coming.PEACE.
Thank you for the encouragement, Tracy :)
Anytime Ivan.
Those electronic angular measuring torque wrenches likeky use a MEMS micro-machined angular rate sensor like the ADXRS150 and do some integrating dtheta/dt.
sounds expensive and failure prone haha
What are the two little switches on the passenger side back part of the head? I see through the editing you added on of them and talk briefly about the second one at the end of the video. One of these is leaking oil on my Subaru and I am having a hard time finding out about these two parts.
You just need to replace the orings on those solenoids. They are for variable valve lift on the intake cam. Look up a parts diagram!
You say to follow the torque specs but don’t give them all. Left in the dark after the first sequence
I use the genuine Subaru *turbo* head gaskets on NA engines (permanent fix, different design MLS) and reuse the head bolts no problems just skip the stretch/undo stage, also use an old head bolt with cut threads to clean the block threads first.
For manual owners its better to do the clutch by removing the engine leaving the gear box in and do the head gaskets at the same time, also make sure to reseal the piston/pcv plates and inspect the rear main seal (there usually fine).
Great tips! Now the question is why don't they install MLS gaskets on all Subaru engines from the factory??
It all comes down to cost.
When skipping the stretch/undo stage what torque do you start at?
@@sleeks9939 Get a factory service manual for your specific model or follow head gasket manufacturer specs
@@apachelives I’ve been searching for one but no luck. 2005 Forester NA SOHC EJ25.
Nice job, Ivan..
You are the best thanks for the videos
Dobro Utra Ivan. Love your videos :-)
Spasibo!
Subaru should have fixed all of these bad engines with faulty gaskets instead of us paying $2000.
Will do..same torque secuence?
And thanks for all ur help
i never understood the idea of torque to yeild fasteners. its like trying to idiot proof a grenade
""""come check out or new idiot and explosion proof grenade!""""
That's a job really well done ivan :-D.
I imagine that at the time you were releaved that the hardest part went back together loverly.
I know you are a pro, but getting the job done must still be a tiny bit worrying.
You can never take for granted that a job will go as smoothly as planned. But it is nice when some of them do ;)
Great vid Ivan, thank you. Request - can you please do a tutorial on bleeding air from Subaru brakes. Thanks :)
I have a few videos on brake bleeding...same procedure just like any other car.
OK thanks I'll try and look them up. The main point I'm stuck on is trying to avoid any air being sucked back into into the bleeder piope or through the bleeder nipple during the stage of closing the nipple after tghe other person has pumped the brake pedal.
Top job Ivan. I always thought the final torque on EJ25 bolts was nearer 100ft/lbs. Then again i'm not a human torque wrench.
Somewhere between 80 to 100 should do her lol
2 ooga doogas👌
Once rebuilt an Alfa Sud engine, a flat four twin over head cam unit not unlike the Scooby Doo Subaru. However I made the mistake of fitting a head gasket upside down. Fortunately I had a cup of tea before I torqued everything and was flicking this bit of exposed gasket and then the penny dropped. A simple error but when you’re focused on torque settings and getting bolts in the right order it is easy to overlook the obvious.
if the drill-bit is the same size as hole, running it backwards works pretty well for corrosion removal.
also why didn't you put the valve cover with the face side down on plywood and just run the bit into it or up on a few blocks, seemed to be fighting it pretty hard lol
I would never have the courage to attempt this.
The Fel-Pro bolt sets don't differentiate between the two bolt types. They're all the same.
Is it a problem if the oil drips off the headbolt threads and onto the head gasket, block surface, or head surface as you try to place the head onto the block with the engine in the car?
Can you use original head bolts on a car with only 157,000 kilometres?
That gasket would've fallen out of place on me 6 times in a row! I would've had to edit out the whole part because it would be one long tirade of expletives. 😂 Sometimes I think the forces of the Universe conspire against me ...
Almost there!! I can almost smell the CO coming out of the tailpipe. 😎
You cant smell CO. Thats why its so dangerous.
stretching alternator belt, single use head bolts, ridiculous torquing sequence, head gaskets guaranteed to leak again in another 100k miles......can't wait to go out and buy my very own subaru!!
Not if you face the heads and block
Ivian why Not use Anti Size rather than oil?
Where you get the software to do stuff like that
i saw a commercial for bars leak....you didn't have to do any of this!!!
I have nightmares about BARS STOP LEAK lol
:))))
Magic in a can seldom is...
I ment it as a joke! but it has worked in the past pepper in the block coke in the battery and bananas in the diff or tail pipe! all have worked before
Ivan. Correct me if I'm wrong. I've read when you "oil the bolt threads" you can change the torque by 30 or 40%. So, those head bolts are tighter than what the torque wrench is set at? Or, does Subaru want you to lub the bolt threads and then proceed with their torque specs (which would take into consideration the lubed threads?) Just curious. I really enjoy your videos. Many thanks,
Manufacturer spec by Subaru. If they are not oiled, they "stick" when tightening, throwing off the torque reading even more!
Ivan what is the brand and model of that air rachet?
All krowned up as of Yesterday.
should have done that job when you replaced the clutch in it. would have been easier.
what a fun head gasket job .
thank god i dont own a soobie!
be careful torking those head bolts you might flip that roller skate over. LOL
In hindsight do you think it would’ve been easier to pull the engine? Also how much did the machine work set you back?
Thanks
I always pull the engine. Hell, you're 90% there and it only takes about 10 or less minutes to pull the remaining hardware and hoses to remove the engine but it makes the whole process so much easier. Working in the confined space of the engine compartment just does not appeal to me. I would like to see the same mechanic do it both ways and see if there is much difference in time because I doubt there is any.
Push rods and valve lash? Did I sleep past that part?
LOL couldn't find any pushrods on this engine...
thinking you slept through way more than that lol.....
Right, timing belt, Duh! Do you set the valve lash on the bench. I haven't watched Part IV yet.
There’s a lot of comments saying good job this is a fucking abortion. You should never need to drill out factory holes and if you’ve done this a few times it’s only 6-8 hours removing the engine
Of course.
Elabourite torquing procedure indeed!!
-wonder if new bolts need pre tensioning -or dare you re-use old head bolts?
I told YA PART 6 on horizon~~ -trust repair outlasts RUST
old bolts don't need pretension- bolts are already stretched- so you skip that part (according to a subi tech). Although it is recommended to install new bolts ($50 each side) it is not necessarily done in a dealership, billing is a different thing. Ivan what's your experience? BTW great video again as usual.
I've reused head bolts before. No big deal really. Just figured in this case might as well keep the audience happy and follow the manufacturers recommendations lol
I have NEVER bought NEW engine bolts-except when heads totally rounded off or threads super rusted
-even down to oversized bearing caps on crankshaft
-but possibly got away with stunts since both short block
AND head were cast iron
=recall doing MANY VEGA and 2.6 L Mitsubishi mills in Chryco minivans ENGINE swaps due to meltdown due to lousy design though
Part of the video was bit cringeworthy cuz I was afraid to see the head bolt was gonna snap or something. Sorry Ivan, I was thinking negative. But great job reassembling the engine up!
Threading into Aluminum is always a bit cringeworthy!!
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics yep. Sure is lol. I snapped a bolt on Cummins engine. Using ARP studs. Expensive mistake. That's why I cringe at torquing the head bolts lol.
hey are the subaru oem head gaskets any good or shoud I go with any aftermarket part....mine has an ej29 JDM engine
As long as they are MLS (Multi-Layer Steel), you should be OK!
your'e # 1.
Makes you wonder how many shops actually take the time to do this. Wish i could find someone like Ivan close to me!
I've seen botched head gasket jobs before. One ended up with overheating and a cracked cylinder block!
what is the parts bill
A LOT.
Not many engines you can palm a head in one hand lol
I lift cylinder heads instead of dumbells hahaha
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics 😂
What a great way to start the morning of my 66 th birthday SMA and PHAD All this rigmarole and the stupid head gaskets still don't last.
Happy Birthday, Eric! That's a cool number! :)
Ivan any birthday of this vintage is cool if you are above the dirt.
wouldn't be easier to do that job with the motor out?
Yes
If you have the means to pull the engine out, and an engine stand to hold it while you tear it apart. The in-car method only requires basic hand tools and no heavy lifting ;)
At least those heads weigh nothing, I'd be afraid something would drop in the intake ports
Sweeeeet MAN, YOU could have edited out all your screw ups.. That stupid gasket, stuburn, little flea. Gina bite you any chance it gets... Lol... But cha don't. And that my friend make s you da man. Thanks for keeping it real
haha I'm all about keeping it real ;)
Great vid man, you da man
1st boom
You might win a PHAD T-shirt soon if you keep this up Leon xD
wear some goggles!!!!! now I see why you scratch ur eyes all the time .
You told me part 5 was going to be rev up your engines disappointed Thumbs Down unsubscribed🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😂😂🤣🤣😂🤣🤣😂🤣🤣😂🤣🤣😂😂🤣🤣😂😂🤣🤣😂😂🤣
bodgit and leggit garage, No that's scotty kilmer lol :-D
Next one I PROMISE!!!!
First
suddenly thinks "the greatful dead" and tunes in