Massive Anvil Crisis! Can Wranglerstar Save 'The Old Man' With Ingenious Fix?
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- Опубліковано 25 кві 2024
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In this thrilling episode of Wranglerstar, we face a real challenge with "The Old Man"-a 400 lb vintage German anvil whose base, lovingly dubbed 'the Pulpit,' is showing signs of distress. Crafted last summer from robust Douglas fir, the Pulpit is now succumbing to cracks that threaten the stability of our cherished anvil.
Watch as I employ a combination of traditional skills and sheer ingenuity to address this issue. Armed with 5/8" threaded rods and custom-forged timber framing washers, I attempt a daring rescue to pull these menacing cracks together. Will this unconventional solution hold? Or will the Old Man demand a more dramatic intervention?
Tune in to find out what happens when traditional tools and modern dilemmas collide. You don’t want to miss this blend of craftsmanship, history, and high-stakes problem-solving!
#Wranglerstar #AnvilRepair #Woodworking #VintageTools - Розваги
Never seen a ratchet strap on a hole hog, ProHo never ceases to amaze
Might be a fun blacksmithing project to forge some straps to wrap the old mans stand
He can't do it, he just plays blacksmith on a TV show..
That was the idea I said yesterday forge some straps around it would do the job and look good but I’m a east cost man
This is the only thing that makes sense
Iron bands wrap?
Start with "Band-it" steel strapping. Ratchet it down to compress the cracks as much as possible, then cover/reinforce with a forged veneer.
Any woodworker worth a damn knows that you can’t force wood to do what it doesn’t want to do.
Armchair quarterback here. Would have been wise to put two ratchet straps around it to somewhat compress the loose piece into place that way it moved less while you drilled. That said great work
Absolutely correct clamp it back together first or the centerline of the holes are going to bind up !
That’s what I came here to say also… At least that’s how the east coast would’ve proceeded. 😂
I was thinking that the whole time.
He knows this "PROho" he likes all the comments even the "negative ones".
Good idea 💡
As I commented on the first video about this, the entire block is compromised and has now cracked on the other side. There's a time when you have to quit trying to repair and start again from the beginning. A large kiln dried piece of oak would be better suited for the anvil with 3 inch x 1/4 angle iron running along all the edges/corners for reinforcement with 1/2 inch bolts securing everything together. You also need to regularly use oil on the block to prevent future cracking the same as you would for axe handles and such. I'd also suggest a pad/mat underneath the anvil.
You don't have a lot of friends,do you?
@@JohnDoe-xg4yr Bad form sir. @lonnieblankenship8637 Don't let jerks on the internet get you down. There are more good people than bad - the bad ones are just louder.
Preferably an oak grown within site of the Atlantic Ocean. When it absolutely needs to work, East Coast gets it done;)
Hard to beat a big pice of hickory or ash but ash it getting less and less around me due to the bugs from over seas but hey at least we get junk stuff from them cheap who doesn’t love buying a new everything every week
With some heavy duty steel straps you can still use that block. Depends on which is more economical to you.
Would love to see you heat some flat bar stock and wrap a few bands of iron around the base (like a barrel).
I wonder if that is the reason you see that on a lot of traditional bases for heavy anvils
A true ProHo for decades and you still open the wrong drawer first in the toolbox just like the rest of us. Good to know you're still human despite your superhuman skills.
Cody, I noticed the crack is running across the growth rings not along them. You are fighting checking not shake. I'm reminded of the struggle you had keeping your solid woodworking bench flat. The power of creation and the order of nature never ceases to amaze me.
Possibly could've prevented it with oiling
Cody that's then going to just split in between the two sets of rods on the orthogonal faces. You need a new block my friend
Even if he uses 8 pieces of threaded rod, he is probably going to end up with kindling in the end.
I would’ve used wood glue and ratchet strap those gaps closed. And maybe nail a couple of steel strap around it
@@trendinvestor2893enough rods and the anvil will stand on solid steel, problem solved 😅
Looks like a very time-consuming way to split firewood.
Next episode: "How the US Forrest Service converts a large block of wood into kindling"
Ratchet strapping a huge drill to a broken hunk of wood, holding 400 lbs of metal. This is the ProHo content I am here for!
Nice post. There was a blacksmith in our village who also had an anvil like that. The base frame was made of beech wood and enclosed with steel straps. Here in Bavaria you can still see a structure like this on old anvils from time to time. P.S. I apologize for my bad English
Your English is excellent. Sadly, significantly better than most of the native English speaking commenters here.
@@sociopathmercenary no kap frfr ong
@@sociopathmercenary Understanding Yes, writing less. The most difficult thing is to put the content into context, and I don't speak and think in standard German but in an old Bavarian dialect that doesn't have much in common with German. Basically I need three languages to write a comment here.
Vintage Wranglerstar.
100% sure I will never encounter this exact same problem, still loved every minute of this video!
Hi Cody. I don't think I have commented before though I have been enjoying your work for close to a decade. This appears now to be a no win situation. Unless the base is *first* hooped - like a barrel - with iron straps this is destined to become fast burning firewood. Another armchair expert here. My best wishes to you and yours.
Best part of the day so far!
For the future, use the strap to secure the wood from the beginning. It would have kept that center piece that cracked in place while you drill.
I gave you are great idea to this in the short. Use your Alaskan Mill to turn it into blocks, 4 across by 4 and 4 down, mix them, turn them and glue them all with Total Boat Epoxy. It come is a big tube like caulk with a mixer nozzle, squirt, spread and glue. Cramp it all up. It is slow cure. Hide the triangular split bit in the centre. It is the way butcher's blocks and maple cutting boards are made. It will be narrower by the width of the blade x 3, but shouldn't make a difference.
Now THAT was some impressive drilling.
I think the threaded rod will be a good solution. You can tighten as needed if it shrinks in the winter.
Great idea, and it is working. Just need more supplies. like the watchet strap idea, save the arms and shoulders :) Nice job. ❤💯🙏
OCD warning! You should put a black rubber mat (maybe 1/4" thick) on top of that black tool cabinet so when you put items on top of it, it doesn't scratch the cabinet. Just a thought.
Yup! Mine has a mat. Much nicer!
Yup! I woiuld imagine that most of us have a rubber mat atop our rollaways.
yeah or some leather, - the black mats are nice too. and metal strapping maybe for the log. could be nice to punch some lettering into the strap too, like Matthew 21:12
Post-tensioning a hunk of wood...fantastic! Next stop - log cabin...
The description though. 10/10
I have 2 of these drills from my father that passed a few years ago and we have drilled though some real big stuff, and i can here him now yelling Push!!!
400 pound beast. He's perched upon his pine throne. His throne is cracking.
I believe that block has a conundrum.
When i have seen anvils on a log like that it was left round and they would put two steel bands around it. just make a steel ring heat it until it glows and slide it over the wood. Then when it cools it shrinks down and pulls tight that way if it tries to split it wont move. Same thing they used to do with the old wood mallets with steel bands around the head.
I have a barometer like yours in my home. It's old, was originally my great grandmother's. Then my grandmother had it in her house, and later passed it onto me. She passed away last fall, but every time I see it I think of her.
No my friend, what you need is a properly constructed block from dried and well seasoned wood. This piece was gonna crack on you no matter the size of anvil resting on it, unless you would be willing to spend money on special chemicals and a drying kiln. Just laminate a block from 4x4s (or smaller if you'd like) and strap it with a nice thick piece of steel which would also provide you with a weldable surface for a tooling bracket.
We had one such block in the shop back then and it was strong as a beast.
I'm concerned running threaded rod through the new split without first filling it with epoxy (or some other filler) will cause one or both of the other two sides to split... here's to hoping I'm wrong.
Love the new Timber Fit workout
I just the other day used two ratchets straps in a similar manner to lift an 80 gal stand-up compressor back onto its feet in my garage. Tighten one to the max, reset the other and tighten to max and reset the other, and tighten again. Took forever, but when that's all you have, you make do.
Hi cody! As an observer, one might think about 1/4 sterl plate 2x3 vs washers. 2nd, 1 1/2" steel bands around stumb will add best foundation structure! It's yours? You decide!😊
I would suggest buying several sheets of 3/4" plywood, cut it up into 2' x 4' pieces, and clamp them together, drill holes in the same manner with 4 pieces of threaded rod. Put glue in between each sheet. It will NEVER split or crack. RIP Old Man's Pulpit.
I'd fabricobble a couple of strap clamps from 1/8" X 1" mild steel, to go around the block. But hey, the threaded rod seems to work too... My anvil sits on a White Oak chunk. So far the chunk is holding without splitting. If it does start to split/fall apart, I'll make some clamping bands to wrap the thing with. Fun vid, never thought to pull a drill into the work with a ratchet strap.
Great video and a great project.
Congrats on the new house by the way
When did he get a new house?
@@surfer2374 he’s building a small cabin style house I believe from what I remember I could be wrong though
I’m a plumber in Iowa I use that same drill to bore water services from inside of basements to outside
put some leather up on top of the tool chest or nah? nice setup you have, I agree this might work, or place metal strapping around as pressure will go path least resistance and open another fissure? barrel style
Might be time to mill a new log. Maybe a round one and run 2 bits of winch cable around it like a whiskey barrel
You've turned that log into a bomb 😮
Seeing you struggle with drilling the bottom hole resonated with me haha I have been in that situation so many times and thought "What am I even doing here?" solid persistence
You sound like a man who has taken a break under a car. No water, no cigarette, no phone. Just lay there silent for five minutes like “I coulda been a fighter pilot or a lunch lady or SOMETHING”.
Logs check as they dry, yours is not defective. The outer edge shrinks faster than the core. That puts it in tension across the grain so it cracks. Sealing the whole block early on might have reduced the effect by stabilizing the moisture throughout, but once a crack starts, the exposed wood dries even faster. This is why people laminate wood blocks that already have stable moisture.
I think i work fine for a while. I personally would start with a new block, forge some straps and put them around the block while still hot, when they cool they will compress the block even tighter
There used to be a hardware store in my town, that you could these guys a bolt and knew what you needed. They were in business for over 60+ years. I just remembered, that theyve been in business as long as I've been alive. The sad thing was, is nobody from the family wanted to take over the business. Same thing, is happening to restaurants around here too. Nobody in the family wants to take over the business, so it has to close.
yeah, another armchair quarterback, here. I thought you were going to use the ratchet strap to pull the pieces of the block together before you drilled the holes. That would have given you a chance to match the height of the center piece with the two end pieces. It would also help keep the center piece level as you drill the holes. I also thought you'd add some wood glue to help join the pieces together and let that setup prior to drilling the holes. Those second washers were impressive but maybe a couple pieces of railroad plates used to secure the rails when the large steel spikes are pounded into the railroad ties; it would have been a stronger choice to help the old man stand. Four of those two on each side and those bolts would have been perfect for that massive block of wood.
Anyway, looking forward for the Part II and see how you finish this project.
The wooden butcher block ( = very similar mechanical load & stress situation) of my late Grandpa, a German Master Butcher, was made from individual rectangular pieces of well-seasoned aka dried hardwood. All held together by two steel bands that were bolted around its circumference, abt. 1/5 of the block's height from the top & the bottom. It stayed intact for ALL its entire use 6days/week year-round for 60+ years, being used by 3 generations of butchers.
THAT might be a design worth copying for an anvil base.
It was a great craiglist find, if I remember.
The most powerful wrist snapper,
I always enjoy your videos and your wholesome and Christian content!
I would have added construction adhesive to the split piece, strapped top and bottom with a ratchet strap and then bolted. I added mild steel strapping to my anvil stand top and bottom and lagged into the stump. . of course my anvil was mounted to a seasoned Arizona ash stump so checking and splitting were not an issue like you can have with conifer's (pines).
Plus your anvil is a Monster!🤠
Do not tighten all at one time. Tighten, and walk away. Let the stress equalize slowly. Come back in a day(s), and re-tighten. Walk away, come back later.
I would add another two pieces of all thread on the opposite corners and then attach the left and right pieces at the same elevation with flat stock or angle. So basically, 4 all threads with the top two connected with all angle iron and then the same on the bottom. I think it would ascetically look better and add support in keeping it square.
I wrote this before finishing your video. You have the right idea but I highly suggest connecting the sides with angle iron.
I like the idea, I feel like you could have done a plate strap though... And I like people's suggestions of forging your own straps to go around the whole thing!
Yes I turned my arms in to pretzels with my fathers drill like that when I was a child😂. I appreciate the effort you put in with all the camera angles. That has to take a lot of time. Bless you and your family have a good day
There are vids on how to keep and preserve wood, Cody. You shoulda rubbed the block with BLO: every day for a week, once a week for a month and once a month for a year.
Gen X man, I tell ya...
Saw that coming unfortunately. Get you a big hunk of oak or maple!
I think iron straps around the perimeter will be a longer lasting solution. That block is going to keep splitting in places the rods are not holding.
It is going to split and check no matter what you do, cannot control it in a fir chunk like that. I would mill up a bunch of clear VG fir posts, dry, and cut to length, then glue them together. Nice drilling!
If there’s a next time or you decide to replace stand I would make three metal band and wrap the wood block. Space them evenly, top, middle and bottom and make them snug like on a whiskey barrel. This way you don’t have to ever replace it again. And it’s a blacksmith project you will enjoy.
I thought you were going to put the anvil on its side and drill down through it, but the creative use of the ratchet took this whole operation to the next level.
A creeper would have been handy to set the drill on.
Steel band around the whole thing, just like an old school red cedar hot tub, my man.
Perhaps start looking for a log big enough for the anvil, mill the top and bottom if you'd like but leave the bark on and run metal bands around the outside to keep it contained.
Cheers!
In the days of old, the blacksmith would have either forged straps that wrapped around the stump or put the anvil on the side of the stump. My anvil personally is on a stump with 2 wrap-around straps that were heated up and burned on.
Got a good laugh at the superman drilling position. Was worth a try.
Hi, old anvils here in europe have steel banďs around the wooden base to keep them together , they can be tightend with wedges if needed later. Lg hans
A job worth doing, is worth doing right.
Add some steel plates on both ends to distribute the load and sandwich "The Pulpit " in. If that fails , time for a new base
This was pure comedy and fun stuff, you got me rolling man.
Here's just a thought. That anvil is a beautiful piece, really far more than you'd ever need! Perhaps donate it to one of the many organizations that teach Blacksmithing to Veterans combating PTSD, and get something more suited to your needs! It's taking up space in your shop, and it's such a masterpiece, that it could really be put to good use! Just an idea!
If you end up abandoning that approach, I could use those rods as axles for my go-kart.
God job on your nut skills. 30 heavy equipment mechanic. Have shaired that same thing with the younger guys. I fist started doing it about twenty five years ago.
I believe I told you when you first made it, to put a couple of bands around it. When you get around to making the next one, remember.
Cody. I still believe you need steel straps around the whole base as well as the all thread. 😊
You never realize how weak you are until hold up a power tool for a long amount time lol.
that image has to become a meme, awesome shot! great work
Oh the struggles are real 😂😂 this is a real MAAANNNSS video 😂 go Cody!!
i have a feeling your going to cause the other side of the block to split now........ yup it happened
In Germany we usually place an anvil on an oak stump!
I saw your follow up short, so I alrwady know the answer.
Still, it was enjoyable watching the struggle against futility
Idea. in addition to using the fancy washers you could cut some steel flat stock, mark the distance between the threaded rods, drill appropriate holes for the rod. This way you could distribute the for of those nuts over a bigger area. I see that you have that big powerful wratched strap. If you had two or more you could wrap those around the mount, glue it up and apply a lot of force around the whole thing.
Maybe 6-8 wraps with 3/8 wire rope tightened with a long bolt with washers
Wranglerstar, This is amazing! I subscribed right away!
Love my Hole Hawg!
probably a good idea to put straps across between the sets of threaded rod, would hate to see it split in the other direction
maybe even tie them into the threaded rod
See you on the next one
Some of those solid brass bow ties would look cool in the top to tie the wedge back in. I also like the forged steel band idea, with some big brass screws (I love brass) love those big washers you used, haven’t seen them before, I like where this is heading, like a broken bone with plates and screws but more beautiful and less painful.
Just said to myself, I wonder if the tension on the other side will cause this to split… 10 seconds later….
Wrap the whole thing after with angle iron and drop it on a custom made skid so you can move it with your machine. Proho manservant tip of the day for those of us with machines it’s a game changer to make heavy things machine movable.
You need a new block, that's never gonna work for the long term. My suggestion is do a crisscross with lumber or glue lumber together to make a solid block.
Add couple of 1-1/2 straps around cut and weld ends and use lag bolts to keep in place
I had a idea that block would crack when tightening bolts .....next time do it over long time ...ex; ten turns a day ; give time for the wood to slowly flex back into place
If this anvil stand is for show you are doing fine. However if you are using it as a tool, and I hope you are. I think some redesign is in order.First your height needs to be taller about hip high at the face, As for construction use 2 inch plank ,top should be same size as base of anvil, sides should taper slightly to the floor. Drill a hole in the top and fill with sand. Use metal corners to hold anvil in place. This will make it much easier to get over and closer to the anvil for more efficient hammering. Thirty plus years at an anvil and still learning. Happy Hammering.
You need some yellow osage. I have big blocks and they are cut and seasoned. Oklahoma.
Get a nice chunk of oak... Done and done.
Otherwise some straps around the sides might do. But just get a real round to set it on, is my first thought
Jesus christ this anvil stand project has been painful from start to finish I know it's all content but you blew this from day one
@wranglerstar I had a very large Oregon White Oak go down this spring, would you be interested in a block from it for a new pulpit? I’m nearby as the crow flies.
Yes the proho struggles are real 😊
Wouldn't you bolt it AND wood glue it? Sorry, I am not a Proho. Maybe I spake too soon ! (StarWars reference). If it works it works. Hope you manage to protect the integrity of the anvil block. Great videos Sir. Keeep doing what you are doing.
If this doesn’t end up working maybe make a steel base but a large thick piece of wood on top and below the cage for force transfer and easy replacement if it breaks
The clear lumber chunk looks nice but splits too easily. A piece with knots would be stronger and more suitable. The lumber chunk also has center grain meaning the center of the log is in the middle and it never will be stable.
Looking forward to future videos and solutions when you fix more cracks.