Your honest opinion and detailed breakdown with zero hype is the north star to my view in the world of resin printers, thank you sir. Guess this means I'll keep waiting a while longer for a resin printer I actually like to eventually emerge onto the market someday. Till then dialing a FDM E3V2 to 0.05 layer height with 0.2 nozzle will be my standard. As well a custom built large scale FDM printer for 400x400x500mm print volume shall continue to receive increasingly expensive upgrades for speed and reliability.
Thanks for the honest review! I can say I really like the idea of being able to change settings for a print file in the printer itself and not have to reslice it just for simple adjustments. But it would be nice to just have that be a settings button on the print screen vs prompting every time. I’m with you on the disappointment of how all these companies are promoting fast speeds but one of the things they’re doing is setting layer height to FDM sizes to achieve it. Just like you, I got into resin for quality detailed prints (and ability to do better quality supports). I’ve already two creality FDM printers which I really like and are good for that type of printing. So yeah, hopefully these manufacturers wisen up.
Thanks David. You're right, changing settings at the printer is VERY useful, especially when dialling in. If you use a calibration print, it's much quicker to alter those layer times without having to slice again 😁
I really appreciate your honesty here. It's refreshing to get honest feedback when it's not ideal. That said, as I write this it's December 12th 2024 and this printer is ~ $250 USD shipped with free "Gifts" (Resin and a box/cover for the printer). I found this review looking for feedback on this printer.... yes I'm going to buy it, I don't need to print fast and this will do well enough for my needs.
Your reviews have been invaluable in teaching me more about this fascinating new technology, thank you! I love your contributions and you are awesome! You saved me like a thousand dollars and endless frustrations, instead I'm finally printing my warhammer dream army with success.
I'll give them props for trying the pump thing. It's a good idea with a mediocre implementation. Your idea to replace the pump with a heater made me think about future designs and possible modularity allowing the user to pick what they want. You can have a pump, a heater, more air filtration... just pick what you need and plug it in.
I did buy the printer, watched a creality youtube video, and had my first print with the estimated time to print it. No flaws, printed as intended, and man, you were not lying about that build plate gripping the model xD
I have to say, I agree with every single statement in this video and i have never felt so validated in my life!!!!! I promised Creality a follow up review and I will give them one. Vog, would you mind if i use some of this foootage and refer to you often in my next Creality video. Which will very much be - What Vog Said. Actually, that'll likey be the thumbnail...
Of course you can. 😁 If you want, I'm happy to supply any of the footage I used if it helps. After all, we're both only interested in improving printing for everyone. I'm happy to collab in any way with this in mind. 👍
Ok… hear me out… no one talks about the non pro version. That’s what I have and at LEAST half these problems don’t exist (no cloudy fep alternative, no plate moving at the speed of sound breaking spouts and splashing resin everywhere, no need for special resin, no Wi-Fi demands). And I bought it on sale for $250. Don’t get me wrong it’s not 100%, the fans are still there the feet don’t move, the tube vent is short… but I love it better than my Mars3 Pro that is small and needs repair 25-40% of the time.
I believe you completely. YTers get the machines companies want to promote, rather than the ones that are selling well. I'm sure the non pro version is excellent. After all, I loved how this unit printed.
I used to hate flip tops, but they were very limited on access. Flip-tops like this one are excellent. They take up less room, get less messy, and can be operated with one hand. Yes, I agree, we need more of them 😁
Heya @Vogman. Are you sure the tsmc settings for lychee are actually working fit the mage pro? It does not for me. Are you using the lychee settings in dynax or normal settings?
I am glad we have people like you who are honest. At least we get a choice but you say the truth so that’s what I’m glad about and it helps people decide not to make giant mistakes. Once again, thank you and keep doing these wonderful videos.
I think the best answer is that : the print results need more refinement. It is usable as aguidelines for you final product. For the price : you will have the best prototype and more than halfway if you want a final production ready product.
Jeez, thats rough! Having to tilt the whole printer just to suck up that resin?! I mean how hard would it have been to make it drain properly. Especially from creality of all companies. They've been around long enough now you'd think they would have worked out this rubbish. Cmon reality, step up your game. I really love these honest reviews. so helpful. Thanks again
No. That's a byproduct of 12K screens. At the moment there's only one 12K unit available, regardless of the brand of printer. So right now 12K = rectangles. Everything else = square 😁😁😁
Currently have the non pro in my Amazon cart for $260 on sale. Is it worth pulling trigger for primarily Jewelry/Casting? Just saw Elegoo dropping a Mars 4 Ultra For $309 Next month, which is slightly better in terms of microns
I have the mage 8k in a Sunlu enclosure which means it stays warm but the lid no longer flips over so needs propping up ;) i use an old airbrush spray booth extractor tube as an extension for the filter tube
You're talking the pump is not good because you are faster doing cleaning. It's not a matter of speed but a mess free. I don't mind if the pump is working for 1 hour if I'm not printing anything more. Anyway, as it seems they didn't well the pump, but hope this will be an standard.
I have the non pro halot mage it has a totally different user interface same as the simple example you showed also no WiFi so don't have to connect to cloud and comes without the useless pump, and I think the home speed is a gimmick on the pro because I don't think my none pro moves that fast but has the same z axis and still capable of printing fast
Hello quick question which resin 3D printer would you guys suggest? I’m keep watching more videos to see the options out there. I am new to this and would like to make small stuff for enclosures for my tarantulas and snakes so that they have a color interior.
Nice review with the good and the bad not like some other channels. I own this printer i got it for the speed, a heater would be great on printers saves building one (built the one on your channel) The down side ive found is no pins to align the vat with the pump pushing on it(might take the pump off) and problem with chitubox exporting the files with errors in it, beta ver has fixed that. I print model railway wagons, people, buildings etc in HO 1/87 so far im happy with the prints and im using siraya tech fast and blu, comes of the build plate easy really easy.
Great review as usual sir, thank you! I am trying to understand the implications of not being able to adjust the z offset. Does this mean i would not be able to fit a magnetic build plate?
I'll be honest, I'm not sure. Potentially it may. However, the plate is still manually adjustable. I'd recommend looking at the WhamBam website and see if they've fitted flexible plates to other Creality printers.
Corrugated extensible hose is some of the worst material to use in a ventilation system since the corrugation cause a great deal of resistance to smooth flow. I can see the appeal of such material since it can be shipped compacted.
It's not opaque, it's translucent at a distance, transparent close up. But, this ACF film is 0.3mm thick, vs 0.15mm for FEP and PFA (aka "nFEP"). The extra thickness can influence the focus/sharpness of the image, especially with already marginal optics and "glass"(usually plastic) on these mostly crap-level printers (particularly Anycubic, Elegoo and Creality) being reviewed.
@@vogman An internet search engine almost certainly won't help finding out more facts about ACF, at best it might link to your and some others' videos showing a macro photo or two and whining about crappy printers printing slightly more badly than you claim they would with PFA (aka brand-name "nFEP").
As an 8K printer it's great. If you ignore the silly add-ons, it's a great printer that does exactly what you need it to. And if you clicked my Amazon link in the description, it won't cost you any extra but I get a small affiliate payment from Amazon (it's not compulsory, but every little helps - and if you don't ask, you don't get 😂🤣😂).
Great job. I will refrain from getting into resin printing until it becomes less messy and water soluble resins become the standard. Right now my bed slingers are doing an amazing job and with a little sanding, the prints look store bought. I'd love the resolution with resin, but would loth the mess. I love your channel.
Many thanks 😁 Yes, the mess isn't for everyone. I get through a lot of gloves and paper towels. Don't forget though, the Anycubic resin I showed in this video is water based.
You're going to be waiting a while. In fact, you are going to have to wait for an entirely new kind of 3D printer that has the same detail as resin without using resin. Liquid is messy. It drips and it gets everywhere. That's why you're supposed to be very deliberate and conscientious about how you process your resin. It's not the mess itself that's a worry. It's how you deal with the mess and keep things safe.
Thanks so much for another excellent video, I feel like I'm learning more and more about this as if I have used a lot of printers without spending a dime. Still undecided between a 8k/12k printer or a dlp as my first printer for jewelry casting and figurines, tho. It seems I still can't see myself with just one.. I imagine having them both.. because as much as I don't want to see printing lines on my pieces.. I also want sharpness and I don't want my first printer to have failing prints as a beginner... What a dilemma lol.. also.. perhaps I'll get just one printer and 2 vaults for it.. so I can switch back and forth castable resins and figurine resins without dumping the resin back and forth containers..
It sounds as though you're unlikely to want fast printing, so there's no need to chase any printer making those claims as you'll just pay more for something that won't help you. You don't need the ACF liner, but IF you have one, it's not the end of the world as these lines can only be seen through a macro lens. All printers produce lines. You can't get away from it. But with AA you can minimise this and by altering the orientation you can minimise it again. That's part of the hobby - experimenting 😁 Jewellery for me is a no brain DLP choice, but you want minis as well. The DLPs will do a great job, but if you want a larger model, maybe a 100mm or 200mm tall one, the DLPs won't manage. So I think you're looking at a midrange printer without Fast printing... look into the Anycubic M5 or Elegoo Saturn 3 12K. These will give you lots of details and a big plate. I hope this helps.
@@vogman thank you so much it helps a lot deciding between a 12k or a dlp.. Yeah I don't need a fast or big print.. I got a last question.. do you see any difference regarding macro pics of the lines or any resin casting print or it's metal counterpart? Do the lines change or soften in any way? I haven't seen many macro pics of this.. I imagine they simply are polished off when the metal is being finished by hand... I want to made very detailed zbrush sculpted silver pendants and rings..
Layer lines, etc, do show up in castings. Some folks make it a feature of the jewellery. Personally I use AA and get rid of as much as possible. Anything left can then be sanded away on the print with very fine paper, like 2000 grit, or polished away in the metal.
One question I never hear asked about new printers is why do they not come WITH a flex plate? I've never had a problem with failed prints because of them and I also never have problems separating prints from the plate. They pop off easily.
Noisy fans and Creality 3d printers seems to be a thing. I've had a couple of Creality fdm printers and had to take steps to make both acceptably quiet. I've been watching your videos for a while and am always curious as to how accurately resin printers can print, correct dimensions, etc., and how well this then translates to a finished cast metal part. Does it shrink or grow for example, is there warping. This from the point of view of casting small parts for engineering projects. I don't want to splash the cash if I'm not sure of getting a good result.
I wonder why none of these come with flex plates. It's really nice to not have to worry about exploding your prints when removing them from a plate they stuck too well to. Or I just got lucky with mine and it's just a terrible idea? Or it's just patent trolls?
Flex plates add another point of failure that is unnecessary if you've dialled in your settings properly. I've never had issues removing my prints from the build plate. I've never needed a flexplate. A flexplate can delaminate from your buildplate and ruin a print.
Yeah I like the flip top lid for low overhead areas like on some of my benches. Other than that it seems to gimmick drinen. Using castable resins like you I'd hate to clean the pump to change resins. It reminds me of a funky build plate a while back that looks like it would have been fun to clean. It will be interesting to see if I get those same lines on the Mars 4 Ultra 9K after I get it. I can always try my nfep if I do. Thanks for the helpful video!
If the pump had been fast, I would have forgiven the contamination issues. But honestly, do they really think the pipes and pump can be cleaned? There will always be some traces... we can see that, so why can't they?
Would you be able to make a test of these new printers with the FEP Line issue compared to a traditional FEP and those speed settings? It'd be interesting to see if you could still get upgraded print speeds without sacrificing quality
Most likely not. The only real way of getting faster prints without sacrificing quality is a well calibrated force sensor, and a resin heater to make the resin flow more easily.
I watched the Athena video, and while that's an almost perfect printer, it's out of my budget. I was more curious as to what the percentage gains in speed would be between ACF and FEP at the same resin temps
Ive just ordered a creality lizard, halot mage, creality resin, and their wash and cure kit. Already disappointed. They shipped my order but forgot the wash and cure kit had to email them 4 times to get them to send it. They never sent me any sort of confirmation when i ordered the lizard. I emailed them about it as i was charged but never heard anything, they simply sent me the tracking for the wash and cure kit for the lizard, but the kit hadnt even been shipped yet. My halot mage showed up and it was broken. The coupler holding the z rod was broken and the zrod bounced up and down smacking into the interior the entire delivery im sure as there was physical damage. Thankfully i ordered the Mage itself through amazon so i didnt have to fight for a replacement and deal with emailing their less than stellar customer service. If i had to go back and reorder everything i would most certainly choose a different company as they have already left a bad taste in my mouth and i havent actually gotten to use the product lol.
ARGH !! I am really wanting the advertised fast prints to work for any of these resin printers. I want to print large scale model airplane structure parts that don't need a lot of micro resolution but need strength and accuracy. Even at .2 layer height with true 170mm/h print speed I'd love it if they were accurate and strong but it resin printer corps aren't even thinking of the latter features.
It's nice knowing that you'll always give an honest review, and really important to those with far less experience. Now, im going to go way back into your home furnace stuff. Diddliddlooo, diddliddlooo, diddliddlooo, diddliddlooo, diddliddlooo, diddliddlooo....
Me making mistakes is an all too common thing... and yes, you are CORRECT! It should be .2 with no AA. I'll take a few happy pills and sit quietly for a while 🤪😁😂🤣😂
@@vogman Don't take it bad - that's barely a mistake... 0.05 is the general reference and sort of sticks to the insides of our skull. I don't know what happy pills you are referring to, but I trust you're going with safe practices 🤔
Regular Halot Mage shares exact the same enclosure(with little difference, e.g. no holes for second usb and ethernet as well as halfed led-array radiator with single cooler instead of double), lacks wi-fi, ballscrew as well as fast Z movement, no pump, it's led array is 60w instead of 100w, it's VAT goes with nFEP and it's the same way loud(i've tried touching led array radiator during exposure and it's not even warm, so creality is overprotective here) still, it's twice as cheap and it's a solid platform for upgrading and fixing(some of issues can be fixed with g-code settings tuning, like cooler noise) it's like every creality printer - it has a lot of fundamental pros(for me it was price and enclosure with rotating lid), but it has equal or bigger amount of cons(which mostly appeared because of typical for creality engineering team - lack of polishing) which you have to fight by yourself
The hinged cover is a no for me. I'm already pushing the limits of my bench, and needing to add another 4" of depth just to open the printer is not going to work. I'm also spoiled by my Anycubic - Print, select, go.
Thanks for the review. I will stay far away from Creality when looking to purchase a mid-range printer. I'll stick with Anycubic; my Photon Mono 2 has been great!
Its crazy how my Halot Mage non pro is so much better than the pro version. Most of the issues you brought up just dont exists on the cheaper version. I use chitubox pro for mine and it just prints. I did have an issue where my touch screen died but creality support did come through with a new part but it did take awhile to get it sent out.
It relates to directions... we have X Y and Z and using these help us coordinate a position in 3D space. But for a printer, just think of it as "up and down" 😁
Gotta say the UI being worse than in Anycubic printers doesn't seem all that bad if at the very least it actually lets you adjust settings instead of ignoring several things and using factory defaults like all the Anycubic printers i've used. Lack of manual Z adjustment is a dealbreaker though, I use that function to mix my resin cleanly without having to empty the vat, shake the bottle, and refill the vat
Yes, the super fast plate scares you first time and has you frantically hitting stop. Thankfully the screen responds very well. Adjusting settings at the printer is really useful, you're right. It comes in especially handy when dialling in calibration prints.
I got regular as a pre-order and boy was I frustrated. I’m not gonna spill the hate here, but what drove me crazy the most was Creality straight up lying about having Lychee and Chitubox support. I’ve talked with Lychee on their discord and they said that Creality did not provided them with test unit and they are working as fast as possible, but they got it together with everybody else. Never gonna buy Creality printer again.
Wow , i got the Anycubic mono x , so i really agree with yuo , its a shame that Creality mess all that good features , that in theory can Be implemented , the misimg screw in the carbon filter is really a shame ..(i think yuo can fixed with doble side tape ) but comon Creality ? Just one screw ? The other ugly thing is the interface , all that menus , all that config ..in the Mono x , i slice in chitu , the put the pendrive , select the drawing of the file , so nomistake , a press print , thats it! As yuo show , and if yuo want to change something , speed , etc of course yuo can , the only drawback is the screen is little and the letter are little to my eyes , but its a very good printer😊
At this point I feel kinda bad for Creality. It looks like they are trying but somehow the execution falls short. As far as resin printers go, they seem to be falling behind Anycubic, Elegoo and Phrozen. Hopefully they come out with a winner soon. Else, they may not make in the resin printer business.
Crealitys pricing is based around their brand recognition in the hobbyist 3D printer space. I think they have let their fame get to their heads a bit. These days the Creality clones or other Chinese banded machines are a better deal.
this is true, and I fell for it a few times. My Halot One Pro has been fantastic though...can't say the same for the cheap version of this printer (Halot Lite)
7:37 took me 2 second write it on google. but if actually read manual there is manual on tools menu. did get yet? manual not there. there is manual z move. you not move z on print side lol. there is just move home and levelling. you not manual z move there
I want to like Creality printers, but they make it extremely difficult because they dont seem to test their own products...Do they even listen to reviews??? Implement the good suggestions here and elsewhere then you will have a product most people would like to buy.I think Creality prices for the FDM K1 & K1 Max are great value, but how they arrived with the price for this printer i will never know...
@@vogman Still my favourite fdm printer company by far. I still use my old cr10s and my og Ender 3. I definitely prefer the prints on my Ender. Prints petg really well. Over the years I've put the best of everything on it including TH3D firmware..
I'm confused, doesn't 0.2mm layer thickness up your print time and bring the layer lines alot closer for much better detail than 0.5mm would? That is moat probably why you never seen any change in the speed lowering the layer thickness to 0.2mm as it would drastically increase your print time! going from 0.5 , to 0.2mm with the fast resin maybe would have equalled out or took a lot longer! Try it again with the fast resin at the 0.5mm layer thinkeness you should see the difference then?!. I know you know this and think you got mixed up there as learnt that from your video's and others when started 3D printing
I'm a Creality fan, but this seems like a really poorly thought-out product. Not sure how they allowed this top-up system. Come on Creality, this is ridiculous, get your act together.
Well said. When I reviewed the Creality wash n cure system recently ua-cam.com/video/_qOffjg2iR0/v-deo.html I marvelled at the innovation. That was lacking here. The pump is weak and the air filter is poorly fitted. Creality has let themselves down here. It's a real shame.
I like Creality, genuinely, but they do love to go their own way. As a bit of a maverick I like that, and clearly they have a lot of customers that do too. And they can be very innovative. But sadly, not here.
I think auto levelling has its place, particularly for newbies. Think back to when you started... it was daunting... what if I break the screen? etc etc But I agree. Fast is useful to some, but for the majority of us, probably not. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to see faster with equal quality... but we're not seeing that yet. 😁
I think the autoleveling is just the first implementation of a force sensor. I think things like failure detection and dynamic retraction or dynamic wait times will be in the not so far future from the same system
Up until this point the Anycubic M3 Premium is the best resin 3d printer ever released for the home market. It was way under priced and over engineered to an industry professional level. They could of doubled the price and it would have been worth it. I think they realised that and stopped making it. If you can find a unit for sale, get it.
Wow, you limit yourself if you think that highly of the M3 Premium, look at brands other than Anycubic and Elegoo for better 8K printers by far... If it was USD $450 for that toy, maybe...
I've said it before and I'll say it again. Because of the software, lack of z heigh adjustment, I will never buy a Creality resin printer ever again. I've regretted my Halot Lite since purchase.
I'm sorry to hear that. This is my third Creality and they all print very well. The UI could be better and, in this case, the add-ons shouldn't be there. But otherwise, I enjoy their products 😁
Your honest opinion and detailed breakdown with zero hype is the north star to my view in the world of resin printers, thank you sir.
Guess this means I'll keep waiting a while longer for a resin printer I actually like to eventually emerge onto the market someday.
Till then dialing a FDM E3V2 to 0.05 layer height with 0.2 nozzle will be my standard.
As well a custom built large scale FDM printer for 400x400x500mm print volume shall continue to receive increasingly expensive upgrades for speed and reliability.
Thanks for the honest review!
I can say I really like the idea of being able to change settings for a print file in the printer itself and not have to reslice it just for simple adjustments.
But it would be nice to just have that be a settings button on the print screen vs prompting every time.
I’m with you on the disappointment of how all these companies are promoting fast speeds but one of the things they’re doing is setting layer height to FDM sizes to achieve it.
Just like you, I got into resin for quality detailed prints (and ability to do better quality supports). I’ve already two creality FDM printers which I really like and are good for that type of printing.
So yeah, hopefully these manufacturers wisen up.
Thanks David.
You're right, changing settings at the printer is VERY useful, especially when dialling in. If you use a calibration print, it's much quicker to alter those layer times without having to slice again 😁
I really appreciate your honesty here. It's refreshing to get honest feedback when it's not ideal. That said, as I write this it's December 12th 2024 and this printer is ~ $250 USD shipped with free "Gifts" (Resin and a box/cover for the printer). I found this review looking for feedback on this printer.... yes I'm going to buy it, I don't need to print fast and this will do well enough for my needs.
It's this honesty that I love. Keep being you good sir.
I appreciate that 😁
I was looking at this printer on amazon and I'm glad I found your review :)
Your reviews have been invaluable in teaching me more about this fascinating new technology, thank you! I love your contributions and you are awesome! You saved me like a thousand dollars and endless frustrations, instead I'm finally printing my warhammer dream army with success.
Thank you very much. It's even more fun when you design your own orcs 😁😁😁
I'll give them props for trying the pump thing. It's a good idea with a mediocre implementation.
Your idea to replace the pump with a heater made me think about future designs and possible modularity allowing the user to pick what they want. You can have a pump, a heater, more air filtration... just pick what you need and plug it in.
That's an excellent idea!
"Creality, what compromise would you like today?"
Not a Creality fan?
@@vogman Not in the slightest, no.
I did buy the printer, watched a creality youtube video, and had my first print with the estimated time to print it. No flaws, printed as intended, and man, you were not lying about that build plate gripping the model xD
I don't think I'll ever own a creality product. Thanks for the review VOG!
And miss out the dancing character on the UI? He cheers me up every time 😁😁😁
I have to say, I agree with every single statement in this video and i have never felt so validated in my life!!!!!
I promised Creality a follow up review and I will give them one.
Vog, would you mind if i use some of this foootage and refer to you often in my next Creality video. Which will very much be - What Vog Said. Actually, that'll likey be the thumbnail...
Of course you can. 😁
If you want, I'm happy to supply any of the footage I used if it helps. After all, we're both only interested in improving printing for everyone. I'm happy to collab in any way with this in mind. 👍
@@vogman that would be great, I’ll drop you a line. And yeah. If we aren’t honest with people. We would be no use to anyone
UA-cam needs more people like you Mr Vogman! Love the honesty.
Btw the orcs look really cool, i reckon you should sell them 😊
Glad you like them! That makes two of us 😁😁😁
Ok… hear me out… no one talks about the non pro version. That’s what I have and at LEAST half these problems don’t exist (no cloudy fep alternative, no plate moving at the speed of sound breaking spouts and splashing resin everywhere, no need for special resin, no Wi-Fi demands). And I bought it on sale for $250. Don’t get me wrong it’s not 100%, the fans are still there the feet don’t move, the tube vent is short… but I love it better than my Mars3 Pro that is small and needs repair 25-40% of the time.
I believe you completely. YTers get the machines companies want to promote, rather than the ones that are selling well. I'm sure the non pro version is excellent. After all, I loved how this unit printed.
I'm glad I just got the standard Mage
I just wish Elegoo and Anycubic would include a tilt-able lid, but a third-part enclosure could suffice.
I used to hate flip tops, but they were very limited on access. Flip-tops like this one are excellent. They take up less room, get less messy, and can be operated with one hand. Yes, I agree, we need more of them 😁
Hi Vogman when will the mars 4 ultra mega super 9k review be released?
Hopefully very soon 😁
Heya @Vogman. Are you sure the tsmc settings for lychee are actually working fit the mage pro? It does not for me. Are you using the lychee settings in dynax or normal settings?
I am glad we have people like you who are honest. At least we get a choice but you say the truth so that’s what I’m glad about and it helps people decide not to make giant mistakes. Once again, thank you and keep doing these wonderful videos.
Have been waiting for vogman to review this printer , thank you !!!
Hope you enjoy it!
I think the best answer is that : the print results need more refinement. It is usable as aguidelines for you final product. For the price : you will have the best prototype and more than halfway if you want a final production ready product.
The Halot Mage (non-pro) thats about 330us with the same specs minus the pump/wifi/camera port. Much better buy.
ABSOLUTELY!!!! I was impressed with the printing abilities... just not the toys 😁
@@vogman Are you planning to release a comparison if you have both with other recent 12 and 8k's?
I've been waiting so long for this review. I kidna wish you would review non pro version. I often hear it's better value than pro version.
I would imagine the non pro is excellent. I loved the printing abilities after all, just not the add ons 😁
Jeez, thats rough! Having to tilt the whole printer just to suck up that resin?! I mean how hard would it have been to make it drain properly. Especially from creality of all companies. They've been around long enough now you'd think they would have worked out this rubbish. Cmon reality, step up your game.
I really love these honest reviews. so helpful. Thanks again
Doesn't this also have rectangular pixels?
No. That's a byproduct of 12K screens. At the moment there's only one 12K unit available, regardless of the brand of printer. So right now 12K = rectangles. Everything else = square 😁😁😁
Currently have the non pro in my Amazon cart for $260 on sale. Is it worth pulling trigger for primarily Jewelry/Casting? Just saw Elegoo dropping a Mars 4 Ultra For $309 Next month, which is slightly better in terms of microns
Cracking review! Always good to get an honest review from a source I trust. Keep it up Geoff!!
Thanks Matthew. That's very kind. 😁
I have the mage 8k in a Sunlu enclosure which means it stays warm but the lid no longer flips over so needs propping up ;) i use an old airbrush spray booth extractor tube as an extension for the filter tube
You're talking the pump is not good because you are faster doing cleaning. It's not a matter of speed but a mess free. I don't mind if the pump is working for 1 hour if I'm not printing anything more.
Anyway, as it seems they didn't well the pump, but hope this will be an standard.
I have the non pro halot mage it has a totally different user interface same as the simple example you showed also no WiFi so don't have to connect to cloud and comes without the useless pump, and I think the home speed is a gimmick on the pro because I don't think my none pro moves that fast but has the same z axis and still capable of printing fast
That sounds excellent.
Hello quick question which resin 3D printer would you guys suggest? I’m keep watching more videos to see the options out there. I am new to this and would like to make small stuff for enclosures for my tarantulas and snakes so that they have a color interior.
And why do you need to empty the resin vat? you can you leave the resin sit inside after printing.
Nice review with the good and the bad not like some other channels.
I own this printer i got it for the speed, a heater would be great on printers saves building one (built the one on your channel)
The down side ive found is no pins to align the vat with the pump pushing on it(might take the pump off) and problem with chitubox exporting the files with errors in it, beta ver has fixed that.
I print model railway wagons, people, buildings etc in HO 1/87 so far im happy with the prints and im using siraya tech fast and blu, comes of the build plate easy really easy.
What about a normal halot mage for $250? Is it worth it?
Great review as usual sir, thank you! I am trying to understand the implications of not being able to adjust the z offset. Does this mean i would not be able to fit a magnetic build plate?
I'll be honest, I'm not sure. Potentially it may. However, the plate is still manually adjustable.
I'd recommend looking at the WhamBam website and see if they've fitted flexible plates to other Creality printers.
Corrugated extensible hose is some of the worst material to use in a ventilation system since the corrugation cause a great deal of resistance to smooth flow. I can see the appeal of such material since it can be shipped compacted.
I certainly don't think this one would. At approx 1m, I suspect any fumes would blow straight back in 😂🤣😂
Is lychee slicer working now? I have been waiting compatability.
Thanks for your details review. Can you tell me more about the film material? Why is it opaque? Thank you.
It's not opaque, it's translucent at a distance, transparent close up.
But, this ACF film is 0.3mm thick, vs 0.15mm for FEP and PFA (aka "nFEP"). The extra thickness can influence the focus/sharpness of the image, especially with already marginal optics and "glass"(usually plastic) on these mostly crap-level printers (particularly Anycubic, Elegoo and Creality) being reviewed.
I'm no expert in these ACF liners, but I'm sure a Google search will help you.
@@vogman An internet search engine almost certainly won't help finding out more facts about ACF, at best it might link to your and some others' videos showing a macro photo or two and whining about crappy printers printing slightly more badly than you claim they would with PFA (aka brand-name "nFEP").
So it's on sale now for 259 dollars on Amazon. Is it worth it at that price
As an 8K printer it's great. If you ignore the silly add-ons, it's a great printer that does exactly what you need it to.
And if you clicked my Amazon link in the description, it won't cost you any extra but I get a small affiliate payment from Amazon (it's not compulsory, but every little helps - and if you don't ask, you don't get 😂🤣😂).
Great job. I will refrain from getting into resin printing until it becomes less messy and water soluble resins become the standard. Right now my bed slingers are doing an amazing job and with a little sanding, the prints look store bought. I'd love the resolution with resin, but would loth the mess. I love your channel.
Many thanks 😁
Yes, the mess isn't for everyone. I get through a lot of gloves and paper towels.
Don't forget though, the Anycubic resin I showed in this video is water based.
Water soluble resins don't change anything, you still have to treat the water as toxic waste the same way you would treat IPA
You're going to be waiting a while. In fact, you are going to have to wait for an entirely new kind of 3D printer that has the same detail as resin without using resin. Liquid is messy. It drips and it gets everywhere. That's why you're supposed to be very deliberate and conscientious about how you process your resin. It's not the mess itself that's a worry. It's how you deal with the mess and keep things safe.
Quite true!
So what about the non-Pro Version? If those features aren't worth the price, what about the watered-down version for cheaper?
Lots of good reports on the non-pro Mage.
I would hope the none pro version would be a good buy. I did enjoy how it printed...
Thanks so much for another excellent video, I feel like I'm learning more and more about this as if I have used a lot of printers without spending a dime.
Still undecided between a 8k/12k printer or a dlp as my first printer for jewelry casting and figurines, tho.
It seems I still can't see myself with just one.. I imagine having them both.. because as much as I don't want to see printing lines on my pieces.. I also want sharpness and I don't want my first printer to have failing prints as a beginner...
What a dilemma lol.. also..
perhaps I'll get just one printer and 2 vaults for it.. so I can switch back and forth castable resins and figurine resins without dumping the resin back and forth containers..
It sounds as though you're unlikely to want fast printing, so there's no need to chase any printer making those claims as you'll just pay more for something that won't help you. You don't need the ACF liner, but IF you have one, it's not the end of the world as these lines can only be seen through a macro lens.
All printers produce lines. You can't get away from it. But with AA you can minimise this and by altering the orientation you can minimise it again. That's part of the hobby - experimenting 😁
Jewellery for me is a no brain DLP choice, but you want minis as well. The DLPs will do a great job, but if you want a larger model, maybe a 100mm or 200mm tall one, the DLPs won't manage.
So I think you're looking at a midrange printer without Fast printing... look into the Anycubic M5 or Elegoo Saturn 3 12K. These will give you lots of details and a big plate.
I hope this helps.
@@vogman thank you so much it helps a lot deciding between a 12k or a dlp.. Yeah I don't need a fast or big print..
I got a last question.. do you see any difference regarding macro pics of the lines or any resin casting print or it's metal counterpart? Do the lines change or soften in any way? I haven't seen many macro pics of this.. I imagine they simply are polished off when the metal is being finished by hand...
I want to made very detailed zbrush sculpted silver pendants and rings..
Layer lines, etc, do show up in castings. Some folks make it a feature of the jewellery. Personally I use AA and get rid of as much as possible. Anything left can then be sanded away on the print with very fine paper, like 2000 grit, or polished away in the metal.
@@vogmanthanks, that's great info for me 🙏
One question I never hear asked about new printers is why do they not come WITH a flex plate? I've never had a problem with failed prints because of them and I also never have problems separating prints from the plate. They pop off easily.
You're not the first to say that here today 😁
Hi my halot pro 8k problem can not touch screen. Do you know how to fix?
What suggestions do you have for buying under 400 dollars?
Noisy fans and Creality 3d printers seems to be a thing. I've had a couple of Creality fdm printers and had to take steps to make both acceptably quiet.
I've been watching your videos for a while and am always curious as to how accurately resin printers can print, correct dimensions, etc., and how well this then translates to a finished cast metal part. Does it shrink or grow for example, is there warping. This from the point of view of casting small parts for engineering projects. I don't want to splash the cash if I'm not sure of getting a good result.
The one faux hammer had the carbon filter done exactly the same and the vat got stuck
Sounds like a common problem then.
Didn't faux hammer try the anycubic m5s vat on the normal m5 to see if this frosted film was the culprit? Sure he was on point with that
I've no idea.
Has anyone got an opinion on the new Creality Resin? I can't find any reviews anywhere.
I wonder why none of these come with flex plates. It's really nice to not have to worry about exploding your prints when removing them from a plate they stuck too well to. Or I just got lucky with mine and it's just a terrible idea? Or it's just patent trolls?
It's an option. Not everyone uses them. I like them, but I tend no to fit them. It's purely a lazy thing 😁
Flex plates add another point of failure that is unnecessary if you've dialled in your settings properly. I've never had issues removing my prints from the build plate. I've never needed a flexplate. A flexplate can delaminate from your buildplate and ruin a print.
Your model printed well. Can you share with me the normal print settings you used?
All the settings are in the video 😁
Yeah I like the flip top lid for low overhead areas like on some of my benches. Other than that it seems to gimmick drinen.
Using castable resins like you I'd hate to clean the pump to change resins. It reminds me of a funky build plate a while back that looks like it would have been fun to clean.
It will be interesting to see if I get those same lines on the Mars 4 Ultra 9K after I get it. I can always try my nfep if I do.
Thanks for the helpful video!
If the pump had been fast, I would have forgiven the contamination issues. But honestly, do they really think the pipes and pump can be cleaned? There will always be some traces... we can see that, so why can't they?
Would you be able to make a test of these new printers with the FEP Line issue compared to a traditional FEP and those speed settings? It'd be interesting to see if you could still get upgraded print speeds without sacrificing quality
Most likely not. The only real way of getting faster prints without sacrificing quality is a well calibrated force sensor, and a resin heater to make the resin flow more easily.
I would agree. If you watch my Athena review, you'll see faster printing without compromise is possible,
I watched the Athena video, and while that's an almost perfect printer, it's out of my budget.
I was more curious as to what the percentage gains in speed would be between ACF and FEP at the same resin temps
Ive just ordered a creality lizard, halot mage, creality resin, and their wash and cure kit. Already disappointed. They shipped my order but forgot the wash and cure kit had to email them 4 times to get them to send it. They never sent me any sort of confirmation when i ordered the lizard. I emailed them about it as i was charged but never heard anything, they simply sent me the tracking for the wash and cure kit for the lizard, but the kit hadnt even been shipped yet. My halot mage showed up and it was broken. The coupler holding the z rod was broken and the zrod bounced up and down smacking into the interior the entire delivery im sure as there was physical damage. Thankfully i ordered the Mage itself through amazon so i didnt have to fight for a replacement and deal with emailing their less than stellar customer service. If i had to go back and reorder everything i would most certainly choose a different company as they have already left a bad taste in my mouth and i havent actually gotten to use the product lol.
ARGH !! I am really wanting the advertised fast prints to work for any of these resin printers. I want to print large scale model airplane structure parts that don't need a lot of micro resolution but need strength and accuracy. Even at .2 layer height with true 170mm/h print speed I'd love it if they were accurate and strong but it resin printer corps aren't even thinking of the latter features.
It's nice knowing that you'll always give an honest review, and really important to those with far less experience.
Now, im going to go way back into your home furnace stuff.
Diddliddlooo, diddliddlooo, diddliddlooo, diddliddlooo, diddliddlooo, diddliddlooo....
Hot stuff coming this week hopefully 😁😁😁
I think at 13:44, you mean "0.2 with no AA" instead of "0.05 with no AA"
Thanks for the review!
Me making mistakes is an all too common thing... and yes, you are CORRECT! It should be .2 with no AA.
I'll take a few happy pills and sit quietly for a while 🤪😁😂🤣😂
@@vogman Don't take it bad - that's barely a mistake... 0.05 is the general reference and sort of sticks to the insides of our skull.
I don't know what happy pills you are referring to, but I trust you're going with safe practices 🤔
It's all good 😁
I've placed a typo message in the description and given you full credit. Thanks again 👍
Regular Halot Mage shares exact the same enclosure(with little difference, e.g. no holes for second usb and ethernet as well as halfed led-array radiator with single cooler instead of double), lacks wi-fi, ballscrew as well as fast Z movement, no pump, it's led array is 60w instead of 100w, it's VAT goes with nFEP and it's the same way loud(i've tried touching led array radiator during exposure and it's not even warm, so creality is overprotective here) still, it's twice as cheap and it's a solid platform for upgrading and fixing(some of issues can be fixed with g-code settings tuning, like cooler noise)
it's like every creality printer - it has a lot of fundamental pros(for me it was price and enclosure with rotating lid), but it has equal or bigger amount of cons(which mostly appeared because of typical for creality engineering team - lack of polishing) which you have to fight by yourself
Thanks for the share.
The hinged cover is a no for me. I'm already pushing the limits of my bench, and needing to add another 4" of depth just to open the printer is not going to work. I'm also spoiled by my Anycubic - Print, select, go.
This is the voice I use when reading storybooks to 3 year-olds.
The "ridiculously short hose" is meant to be fully extended...
Yes. That's why I mentioned extending it. But even then it's still short.
the ACF film is the cause of the surface texture, not the rectangle pixles
Yes, that was my conclusion too.
Thanks for the review. I will stay far away from Creality when looking to purchase a mid-range printer. I'll stick with Anycubic; my Photon Mono 2 has been great!
Or maybe just avoid the Pro version. If the non pro prints this well, it's a good contender.
Welp I just bought one so now I'm ready for all the cons watched this and faux hammers vid so we'll see what happens
Great review almost bought one however I will keep searching. Your Orgs are great. 🍪☕
You know it's a raw deal when your MSLA printer makes something like the Bambu Labs P1P/P1S look like an amazing alternative...
Your not wrong. Mini VogMan has never looked so rough. I think he had a bad night on the town 😁😁😁
@@vogman You should have taught the little tyke to stay away from Harlot Pros, LOL
Its crazy how my Halot Mage non pro is so much better than the pro version. Most of the issues you brought up just dont exists on the cheaper version. I use chitubox pro for mine and it just prints. I did have an issue where my touch screen died but creality support did come through with a new part but it did take awhile to get it sent out.
I agree completely. It prints very well, it's just let down by the "pretence" features.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for watching 😁
Zee axis?
It relates to directions... we have X Y and Z and using these help us coordinate a position in 3D space. But for a printer, just think of it as "up and down" 😁
I got the non pro version which seems a much better deal really
Gotta say the UI being worse than in Anycubic printers doesn't seem all that bad if at the very least it actually lets you adjust settings instead of ignoring several things and using factory defaults like all the Anycubic printers i've used. Lack of manual Z adjustment is a dealbreaker though, I use that function to mix my resin cleanly without having to empty the vat, shake the bottle, and refill the vat
Yes, the super fast plate scares you first time and has you frantically hitting stop. Thankfully the screen responds very well.
Adjusting settings at the printer is really useful, you're right. It comes in especially handy when dialling in calibration prints.
Heyoo please make more stuff … get a Mill… an Espresso machine, and a fiber laser ty
thank you!
No worries!
I got regular as a pre-order and boy was I frustrated. I’m not gonna spill the hate here, but what drove me crazy the most was Creality straight up lying about having Lychee and Chitubox support. I’ve talked with Lychee on their discord and they said that Creality did not provided them with test unit and they are working as fast as possible, but they got it together with everybody else. Never gonna buy Creality printer again.
Wow , i got the Anycubic mono x , so i really agree with yuo , its a shame that Creality mess all that good features , that in theory can
Be implemented , the misimg screw in the carbon filter is really a shame ..(i think yuo can fixed with doble side tape ) but comon Creality ? Just one screw ?
The other ugly thing is the interface , all that menus , all that config ..in the Mono x , i slice in chitu , the put the pendrive , select the drawing of the file , so nomistake , a press print , thats it! As yuo show , and if yuo want to change something , speed , etc of course yuo can , the only drawback is the screen is little and the letter are little to my eyes , but its a very good printer😊
Dang i jus bought this
At this point I feel kinda bad for Creality. It looks like they are trying but somehow the execution falls short. As far as resin printers go, they seem to be falling behind Anycubic, Elegoo and Phrozen. Hopefully they come out with a winner soon. Else, they may not make in the resin printer business.
I feel the same way. I've a soft spot for them. They got me started in 3d printing with my CR10S 😁
Crealitys pricing is based around their brand recognition in the hobbyist 3D printer space. I think they have let their fame get to their heads a bit. These days the Creality clones or other Chinese banded machines are a better deal.
this is true, and I fell for it a few times. My Halot One Pro has been fantastic though...can't say the same for the cheap version of this printer (Halot Lite)
7:37 took me 2 second write it on google.
but if actually read manual there is manual on tools menu. did get yet? manual not there. there is manual z move. you not move z on print side lol. there is just move home and levelling. you not manual z move there
They should be paying you! 🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺😎🍀😂😂😂
I want to like Creality printers, but they make it extremely difficult because they dont seem to test their own products...Do they even listen to reviews??? Implement the good suggestions here and elsewhere then you will have a product most people would like to buy.I think Creality prices for the FDM K1 & K1 Max are great value, but how they arrived with the price for this printer i will never know...
Let's hope they listen to you Andy. 👍
"VogMan, Long Live" Yoda
He's an Orc!!!!!
😉😂🤣
here in Argentina creality its the only option. you cant buy any other printer
Awful customer service too, they try to ignore any local consumer rights, you have to be very firm and they take months to resolve issues.
Use wifi printing to avoid that annoying print screen
I can't see this doing well.
No. It's a shame. It prints very nicely.
@@vogman Still my favourite fdm printer company by far. I still use my old cr10s and my og Ender 3.
I definitely prefer the prints on my Ender. Prints petg really well. Over the years I've put the best of everything on it including TH3D firmware..
@@vogman ps Great review. The extras on this printer are definitely not on the top of my list.
I'm confused, doesn't 0.2mm layer thickness up your print time and bring the layer lines alot closer for much better detail than 0.5mm would? That is moat probably why you never seen any change in the speed lowering the layer thickness to 0.2mm as it would drastically increase your print time!
going from 0.5 , to 0.2mm with the fast resin maybe would have equalled out or took a lot longer! Try it again with the fast resin at the 0.5mm layer thinkeness you should see the difference then?!. I know you know this and think you got mixed up there as learnt that from your video's and others when started 3D printing
Sure, .2mm is 2.5 times better layer height than .5mm.
But in this case, the 'normal' layer height is 0.05mm - pay attention to detail!
Спасибо!!!
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I'm a Creality fan, but this seems like a really poorly thought-out product. Not sure how they allowed this top-up system. Come on Creality, this is ridiculous, get your act together.
Well said. When I reviewed the Creality wash n cure system recently ua-cam.com/video/_qOffjg2iR0/v-deo.html I marvelled at the innovation. That was lacking here. The pump is weak and the air filter is poorly fitted. Creality has let themselves down here. It's a real shame.
Creality's stuff has always struck me as a bit cheap and low effort.
I like Creality, genuinely, but they do love to go their own way. As a bit of a maverick I like that, and clearly they have a lot of customers that do too. And they can be very innovative. But sadly, not here.
This extra fast printing is as useless to most of the resin printing community as Anycubics autoleveling is.
I think auto levelling has its place, particularly for newbies. Think back to when you started... it was daunting... what if I break the screen? etc etc
But I agree. Fast is useful to some, but for the majority of us, probably not. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to see faster with equal quality... but we're not seeing that yet. 😁
I think the autoleveling is just the first implementation of a force sensor. I think things like failure detection and dynamic retraction or dynamic wait times will be in the not so far future from the same system
Up until this point the Anycubic M3 Premium is the best resin 3d printer ever released for the home market. It was way under priced and over engineered to an industry professional level. They could of doubled the price and it would have been worth it. I think they realised that and stopped making it. If you can find a unit for sale, get it.
Wow, you limit yourself if you think that highly of the M3 Premium, look at brands other than Anycubic and Elegoo for better 8K printers by far... If it was USD $450 for that toy, maybe...
@@retromodernart4426 Please tell me these brands and models. I would love to know them.
So this one is a no.
I've said it before and I'll say it again. Because of the software, lack of z heigh adjustment, I will never buy a Creality resin printer ever again. I've regretted my Halot Lite since purchase.
I bought one Halot machine and it was so bad that I gave it away for free to someone that wanted to tinker with it.
I'm sorry to hear that. This is my third Creality and they all print very well. The UI could be better and, in this case, the add-ons shouldn't be there. But otherwise, I enjoy their products 😁