Since I was speaking without a script throughout this video, there are a couple of things I feel like need clarification beyond even the captions that I may or may not have added later: * Sorry about some of the moire effects from shooting directly at the monitor. As you probably know by now from basically every other video shooting directly at an LCD on UA-cam, that effect is not visible in real life. * For the SATA SSD, I did also try the Inland drive with the old IDE-SATA adapter (after it was working, specifically to check if the original problem was the drive or the adapter). It didn't work, and from what I've read it's probably because that original adapter does not have a master/slave jumper. I bought the second adapter specifically because it does have that jumper. Some BIOSes just seem to need that. "Cable select" just doesn't always work (and I remember that from the old days too). * I waited 30 minutes after switching the PC off before even touching the PSU, and 24 hours before opening it up to let the capacitors fully discharge. I had originally mentioned this but apparently cut it for time. Please make sure to do this if you work on a PSU, and then test it to make sure there's no voltage remaining before touching any of the important bits. And maybe watch some other videos on power supply safety; this video isn't intended as that. * Yes, I'll eventually need to figure out a TRIM solution for the SSD, since none of the OS's I'm running support it. But it's not that important right now.
@@8wal_zu19 What kind of details would you like? If you pause the video in the part where I thank Toasty from badcaps.net, you can see the list of them there (except I used 1,000 microfarad high voltage caps, which is the one capacitor difference between the SL350 he did and my SL400). But let me know if there are other things you want to know.
@Modern Classic For the front panel I/O connector going through the back, that’s a "D-subminiature" connector (example: the joystick connector is a D-SUB 15). I couldn't tell how many pins were in it, but it seems to be very similar to the external floppy drive connector for the OG IBM 5150. If you were to do continuity tests between the connector and the ports on the front, you could build your own dongle, if that's your goal.
Thanks, yeah I figured I could build my own cable, but it's just too much work when I know this thing exists because I must have had one :) But maybe someday I'll do it if my search just proves fruitless.
If you're going to replace all the electrolytic capacitors on an older board like this, this will probably be a moot point. However, you really need an ESR tester to check the internal resistance of these caps. I actually use both a capacitance meter, and an ESR meter to check these older caps. I have found that they can sometimes have specified capacitances using a capacitance meter, but are still defective, with a high ESR. Conversely, I have found caps with acceptable ESR, but then read out of spec capacitances. ESR meters are cheap and a great edition to your testing devices. I also bought a power supply tester, also fairly cheap, that can run most voltage tests on your PSU, once it's been disconnected. Once you've OK'd the voltages, you can plug everything back in and place the PSU under load. This testers can also help find faulty connectors and has most common sockets to plug the PSU cables into. I got both of these devices on Amazon. I do a lot of electronic work and troubleshoot older PCs and video consoles, and they save a lot of time. Just a suggestion. I enjoyed your video and like to watch how other people diagnose things.
Thanks - I do have a PSU tester somewhere but my feeling has always been that they're not as reliable as a multimeter. I probably will get something that can test ESR at some point, but so far my recaps (except for maybe that original partial recap on this motherboard) have been full recaps that I was going to do regardless, so I just haven't needed one. I was more testing capacitance "for fun" on these two components this time; I was just hoping to find some that were way beyond gone, and I did on the PSU, at least. But I was going to fully recap these no matter what, because if nothing else now I have peace of mind for the future. I might get an ESR tester for the SB Live card, since I'd really like to avoid a full recap of that if I can, but I'm sure it does have at least a few bad caps at this point that would be worth changing out individually.
Very cool, looks great! Nice to see another system saved, I’m sure it took a while to swap out all those caps. Definitely worth it though as they aren’t getting any newer, I’m sure it’ll last a long time!
I love the Lian Li Aluminum cases, to me they are still cool and all I want to kinda use nowadays, I have one now that I can never part with that I have had for like 12 years now.
I had just gone though inspecting recapping the Antec SL300, SL350, SL400 and SL450 PSUs. The high voltage caps were fine, any low voltage side caps are best replaced. I have found most to all had leaked.
Hello, I might just have been lucky, I have bought the cheapest IDE to SATA adapters from China and used what ever 120 Gb SSD's I had lying around and they have worked, the only difference I can think of is I am using the newer 80 conductor IDE cables, looks like you have the older IDE cables? Like you I have the SSD/ IDE adapter as master no slave. Cheers, Dave.
It’s an 80 wire going to the SSD. I may have a 40 going to the CD drive. You probably just bought the right adapter to begin with and your drives happen to be compatible. But it’s not always the case.
Mouse wheel up / down changes weapon on those GTAs, which that mouse seems to be missing. There are no cd patches for those games, yes sir. Best wishes.
I would double check what driver you're using for your Live card. The Dell cards use strange proprietary drivers which is the only reason avoid them. The drivers from Creative seem to have compatibility issues. That being said, to get proper sound in DOS, there is a special driver on the install CD that doesn't load by default. I struggled with this forever and finally, one day, found my original install disk for my Dell SB Live card. The drivers from that original install CD worked perfectly and cleared up all those sound issues you are having. Good luck though.
It is possible you're right, and I will try the original driver CD soon. I didn't think I still had it and went on a wild goose chase looking for working drivers; none of the Dell drivers worked, nor Creative's drivers specifically for the Dell cards. Their standard Unipack drivers did work but that's what I'm running giving me all these sound anomalies. I just checked right now to see if I really didn't have the driver disc and lo and behold, it is on the first page of my CD binder. I know people say the Dell cards need proprietary drivers but mine *only* works with Creative's generic drivers (at least their most updated ones) even though it is clearly an SB0220. But I'll try the drivers off the CD and see if they work any better. DOS is a different thing, and I am using the only thing that I know of to emulate an SB16 on the SB Live in DOS. The Live cards just don't have hardware FM, and the computer's probably too slow to emulate it properly while also doing everything else. I've seen other people complain about that too. It's probably ok in games that don't use FM sound, but that narrows down the selection quite a bit...
Such a chill build video that I could relax to after work, lying on the couch, with my cat lounging on my gut. Mood. What's the name of the background track you used during the build phase, btw?
Great video. I'm wondering if the issues the SB Live are driver related. Phil's Computer Lab put out some content on this, and in fact he recommended avoiding the Dell version of this card, and going with the standard card. Even then he cautioned to use a specific driver to avoid issues.
After the video, I tried various drivers and they were all the same. I ended up just replacing it with an Audigy 2 ZS, which is just *barely* period correct but I can convince myself I would have bought it right before I shelved this machine :) Anyway it works fine and only cost me about 20 bucks for what most people seem to think is the best PCI SoundBlaster of the WinXP era. The SB Live card *did* work fine up until the last time I used this machine a couple years ago, so I think it must be some of the caps or something else just aging on the card and not really working as well as it once did.
@ModernClassic I'm glad to hear you found a solution that works. I agree just think of it as an upgrade you would have made to the PC back in the day. The video card I have in my Win 98 PC is a little too new, and I view it the same way.
i can't really tell in the video but if your motherboard has USB headers you could just desolder the big cable and build some custom ones. If you don't have a dupont wire crimping kit you'll need one of those. not too tough to learn.
Whilst the SB16 might be green - I'd argue that in this case, it actually goes very well with your colourful theme, since nothing else in there is green.
I HAD THE KT7 RAID and it crashed locked up for a week or 2 then a bios update came out and it was ok after that then abit went bust cos of the capacitor plague i used there boards a lot i went to gigabyte after that for the p4 to keep the house warm and they run hot
The heat spreaders are Thermaltake, I bought those separately. The RAM is probably not. One stick is almost definitely Crucial because that’s typically who I bought RAM from at the time. The older stick might be something else. Thanks for telling me about the bulging caps on the GeForce!
My opinion is that clearly some part of the process is not working at Boeing, but flying, including on Boeing airplanes, is still much safer than it used to be. I commute to work on 737's all the time. I don't think anything of it.
Gta vice city runs very decent on my athlon xp with radeon 9550. With game running off cf card but im using no cd patch so i wonder if that help loading hiccups on your systems.
Yeah I'm 99% sure the noCD patch would fix that issue for me, which is why I didn't sound overly worried about it. I can hear it hitting the CD whenever it hitches up like that. I don't know what it's actually loading when it's doing that, but I thought I remembered that patch existing, so I'll get it installed and I'm pretty confident it'll fix the hiccups.
Never, ever reuse a PSU, always update with a new one; I suspect that would have fixed all the instability issues. It also helps with the wire management as all new PSU's have the wires wrapped!
That's just... really bad advice. PSU's can be refurbished and repaired like any other component. A new one isn't going to have enough power on the 3.3 and 5V rails, nor will it have the other rails required by some older equipment.
Since I was speaking without a script throughout this video, there are a couple of things I feel like need clarification beyond even the captions that I may or may not have added later:
* Sorry about some of the moire effects from shooting directly at the monitor. As you probably know by now from basically every other video shooting directly at an LCD on UA-cam, that effect is not visible in real life.
* For the SATA SSD, I did also try the Inland drive with the old IDE-SATA adapter (after it was working, specifically to check if the original problem was the drive or the adapter). It didn't work, and from what I've read it's probably because that original adapter does not have a master/slave jumper. I bought the second adapter specifically because it does have that jumper. Some BIOSes just seem to need that. "Cable select" just doesn't always work (and I remember that from the old days too).
* I waited 30 minutes after switching the PC off before even touching the PSU, and 24 hours before opening it up to let the capacitors fully discharge. I had originally mentioned this but apparently cut it for time. Please make sure to do this if you work on a PSU, and then test it to make sure there's no voltage remaining before touching any of the important bits. And maybe watch some other videos on power supply safety; this video isn't intended as that.
* Yes, I'll eventually need to figure out a TRIM solution for the SSD, since none of the OS's I'm running support it. But it's not that important right now.
could you share more detail of those capacitors you used to recap the PSU?
@@8wal_zu19 What kind of details would you like? If you pause the video in the part where I thank Toasty from badcaps.net, you can see the list of them there (except I used 1,000 microfarad high voltage caps, which is the one capacitor difference between the SL350 he did and my SL400). But let me know if there are other things you want to know.
@Modern Classic For the front panel I/O connector going through the back, that’s a "D-subminiature" connector (example: the joystick connector is a D-SUB 15). I couldn't tell how many pins were in it, but it seems to be very similar to the external floppy drive connector for the OG IBM 5150. If you were to do continuity tests between the connector and the ports on the front, you could build your own dongle, if that's your goal.
Thanks, yeah I figured I could build my own cable, but it's just too much work when I know this thing exists because I must have had one :) But maybe someday I'll do it if my search just proves fruitless.
DB 37 connector. I might have counted 😅
I remember going through the "silver" phase. I paired a silver Viewsonic CRT monitor and keyboard with a silver Antec tower case. Beige begone!
Good to see you again
If you're going to replace all the electrolytic capacitors on an older board like this, this will probably be a moot point. However, you really need an ESR tester to check the internal resistance of these caps. I actually use both a capacitance meter, and an ESR meter to check these older caps. I have found that they can sometimes have specified capacitances using a capacitance meter, but are still defective, with a high ESR. Conversely, I have found caps with acceptable ESR, but then read out of spec capacitances. ESR meters are cheap and a great edition to your testing devices. I also bought a power supply tester, also fairly cheap, that can run most voltage tests on your PSU, once it's been disconnected. Once you've OK'd the voltages, you can plug everything back in and place the PSU under load. This testers can also help find faulty connectors and has most common sockets to plug the PSU cables into. I got both of these devices on Amazon. I do a lot of electronic work and troubleshoot older PCs and video consoles, and they save a lot of time. Just a suggestion. I enjoyed your video and like to watch how other people diagnose things.
Thanks - I do have a PSU tester somewhere but my feeling has always been that they're not as reliable as a multimeter. I probably will get something that can test ESR at some point, but so far my recaps (except for maybe that original partial recap on this motherboard) have been full recaps that I was going to do regardless, so I just haven't needed one. I was more testing capacitance "for fun" on these two components this time; I was just hoping to find some that were way beyond gone, and I did on the PSU, at least. But I was going to fully recap these no matter what, because if nothing else now I have peace of mind for the future. I might get an ESR tester for the SB Live card, since I'd really like to avoid a full recap of that if I can, but I'm sure it does have at least a few bad caps at this point that would be worth changing out individually.
Freezes like you're seeing in GTA could also be the IDE channel running the SSD not set to use DMA. Worth checking that in 98 AND XP.
I actually did check that. I can hear it accessing the CD during those hiccups. So I think that’s all it is. But I’ll check for everything.
@@ModernClassic Check if the ide channel going to the optical drive has DMA active?
@@blakecasimir It does not. That's probably because I've got a 40 pin cable on it. I definitely do mean to do a full internal cable upgrade soon.
Woah. Knew I'd been around since the dawn of time but didn't think I'd been around for THAT long. Always fun to watch your videos
Very cool, looks great! Nice to see another system saved, I’m sure it took a while to swap out all those caps. Definitely worth it though as they aren’t getting any newer, I’m sure it’ll last a long time!
Yay, another modern Classic video!
I love the Lian Li Aluminum cases, to me they are still cool and all I want to kinda use nowadays, I have one now that I can never part with that I have had for like 12 years now.
That case looks like a case that LGR has. Great video and detailed
Yeah I noticed he bought a very similar case at one point, but I think his is actually a Lian Li PC-60 if I remember right.
I had just gone though inspecting recapping the Antec SL300, SL350, SL400 and SL450 PSUs. The high voltage caps were fine, any low voltage side caps are best replaced. I have found most to all had leaked.
Hello, I might just have been lucky, I have bought the cheapest IDE to SATA adapters from China and used what ever 120 Gb SSD's I had lying around and they have worked, the only difference I can think of is I am using the newer 80 conductor IDE cables, looks like you have the older IDE cables? Like you I have the SSD/ IDE adapter as master no slave. Cheers, Dave.
It’s an 80 wire going to the SSD. I may have a 40 going to the CD drive. You probably just bought the right adapter to begin with and your drives happen to be compatible. But it’s not always the case.
Some older PCs are not compatible with Ultra ATA cables.
Mouse wheel up / down changes weapon on those GTAs, which that mouse seems to be missing.
There are no cd patches for those games, yes sir.
Best wishes.
New Modern Classic!
I would double check what driver you're using for your Live card. The Dell cards use strange proprietary drivers which is the only reason avoid them. The drivers from Creative seem to have compatibility issues. That being said, to get proper sound in DOS, there is a special driver on the install CD that doesn't load by default. I struggled with this forever and finally, one day, found my original install disk for my Dell SB Live card. The drivers from that original install CD worked perfectly and cleared up all those sound issues you are having. Good luck though.
It is possible you're right, and I will try the original driver CD soon. I didn't think I still had it and went on a wild goose chase looking for working drivers; none of the Dell drivers worked, nor Creative's drivers specifically for the Dell cards. Their standard Unipack drivers did work but that's what I'm running giving me all these sound anomalies. I just checked right now to see if I really didn't have the driver disc and lo and behold, it is on the first page of my CD binder.
I know people say the Dell cards need proprietary drivers but mine *only* works with Creative's generic drivers (at least their most updated ones) even though it is clearly an SB0220. But I'll try the drivers off the CD and see if they work any better.
DOS is a different thing, and I am using the only thing that I know of to emulate an SB16 on the SB Live in DOS. The Live cards just don't have hardware FM, and the computer's probably too slow to emulate it properly while also doing everything else. I've seen other people complain about that too. It's probably ok in games that don't use FM sound, but that narrows down the selection quite a bit...
Such a chill build video that I could relax to after work, lying on the couch, with my cat lounging on my gut. Mood.
What's the name of the background track you used during the build phase, btw?
It's "Walking in the Sky" by Nico Staf. It's just in the UA-cam Audio Library. Free song you can download.
sound card should always go in the top pci slot, as its the primary and gets the full 33 / 66mhz bus speed...
Pretty sure that slot is shared with the AGP slot on this motherboard, but I'll double check that and move it if I can.
Cool
Sweet, max payne mouse mat 😊
Great video. I'm wondering if the issues the SB Live are driver related. Phil's Computer Lab put out some content on this, and in fact he recommended avoiding the Dell version of this card, and going with the standard card. Even then he cautioned to use a specific driver to avoid issues.
After the video, I tried various drivers and they were all the same. I ended up just replacing it with an Audigy 2 ZS, which is just *barely* period correct but I can convince myself I would have bought it right before I shelved this machine :) Anyway it works fine and only cost me about 20 bucks for what most people seem to think is the best PCI SoundBlaster of the WinXP era. The SB Live card *did* work fine up until the last time I used this machine a couple years ago, so I think it must be some of the caps or something else just aging on the card and not really working as well as it once did.
@ModernClassic I'm glad to hear you found a solution that works. I agree just think of it as an upgrade you would have made to the PC back in the day. The video card I have in my Win 98 PC is a little too new, and I view it the same way.
There are updated versions of close combat series - same graphic styles / gameplay but built for modern OS
Yes but I am playing the original.
i can't really tell in the video but if your motherboard has USB headers you could just desolder the big cable and build some custom ones. If you don't have a dupont wire crimping kit you'll need one of those. not too tough to learn.
Whilst the SB16 might be green - I'd argue that in this case, it actually goes very well with your colourful theme, since nothing else in there is green.
I guess that's true, but I wouldn't mind a little splash of red in there instead. And I know there are red sound cards out there.
@@ModernClassic you could get the picoGUS and have a bunch of sound card options ready that you can flash when you need a certain card for some games.
I'd say that even if the measured cap is within spec, you should replace all of them, as older capacitors start to fall out of spec after 20 years.
You can improve CPU temp by inverting the CPU Fan, suck air form it is less efficient that push it trought it.
That's not really a problem I'm having, though.
If you haven't already done so, don't forget the legacy XP update mod.
I HAD THE KT7 RAID and it crashed locked up for a week or 2 then a bios update came out and it was ok after that then abit went bust cos of the capacitor plague i used there boards a lot i went to gigabyte after that for the p4 to keep the house warm and they run hot
Great✌
the ram is thermaltake, and it was i whom told you about the bulging caps on the geforce....
The heat spreaders are Thermaltake, I bought those separately. The RAM is probably not. One stick is almost definitely Crucial because that’s typically who I bought RAM from at the time. The older stick might be something else. Thanks for telling me about the bulging caps on the GeForce!
As a pilot what do you think about Boeing bad quality and deaths issues?
Could you make a videos?
Best wishes.
Good question
My opinion is that clearly some part of the process is not working at Boeing, but flying, including on Boeing airplanes, is still much safer than it used to be. I commute to work on 737's all the time. I don't think anything of it.
computer case counts as cable management
pretty sure
Gta vice city runs very decent on my athlon xp with radeon 9550. With game running off cf card but im using no cd patch so i wonder if that help loading hiccups on your systems.
Yeah I'm 99% sure the noCD patch would fix that issue for me, which is why I didn't sound overly worried about it. I can hear it hitting the CD whenever it hitches up like that. I don't know what it's actually loading when it's doing that, but I thought I remembered that patch existing, so I'll get it installed and I'm pretty confident it'll fix the hiccups.
Isn't 12V rail on +-10% spec?
No. +/-5% in the ATX specification. -12V is +/-10%.
please replace the words "sound blaster 16" by "gravis ultrasound"
Why? Those are two totally different cards.
Never, ever reuse a PSU, always update with a new one; I suspect that would have fixed all the instability issues. It also helps with the wire management as all new PSU's have the wires wrapped!
That's just... really bad advice. PSU's can be refurbished and repaired like any other component. A new one isn't going to have enough power on the 3.3 and 5V rails, nor will it have the other rails required by some older equipment.
I Have Idea
Get 3.5 Aux Cable
One Side Of 3.5 Aux Connect To Line Out Sound Blaster Live Connect Other Side To Line In Of Sound Blaster 16
why
because