Hey Jeff, Great videos. very well done. I picked up one of these a few years ago. Its in such nice mint shape that it needs no restoration. Only the base had some rust on it. But now i want to make it shinny like yours.
Thank you. If the drill press is in really good condition and you want to preserve your paint, you can remove grease and oil with Grez Off (avoid Simple Green) and you should be safe to remove the rust with citric acid. Polishing the various parts should be fairly simple. Good luck on making the drill press the way you want it.
Thanks for the history of the 100 series. I'm pretty sure mine that I bought a week ago is a 1951. The motor is stamped January 5, 1951. I'm missing the Craftsman headband, so I'm hesitant to declare it is a 1951 without heading out to the pole barn to look at it more closely. Currently, I have the motor torn a part to replace both bearings and toggle switch.
I have been collecting all the King Seeley power tools since 2018, I have at least one version of all the tools except the Alien planer. All of my tools are outstanding performers. Congratulations on the jig saw.
Jeff, glad you are doing a series on the Model 100! Mine is a bench top 1956 15-1/2" 100 in Power Bronze. Fixed table and non-tilting motor mount. I was able to determine the date by looking at the "sardine can" motor capacitor. All parts and the column were cleaned and or polished on a lathe. The motor had no issues. Quill bearings cleaned and greased. Jacobs chuck cleaned and lubed. The rest of the press was lubed and adjusted. Kept the original paint. It's my dedicated wood-only drill press.
This is the one I have. Gut and clean. Some ugly castings with sand blows, a touch of filler after primer to fix New bearings and a chuck rebuild kit, now I have .003 runout measured at 6" from chuck on .500 drillrod.
@JeffsShop thanks, current project is an Atlas TH54 lathe. Gotta say the simple green was a godsend, but the lathe is gunked up with 70 y/o grease gunk and chips. Straight simple green in heated ultrasonic cleaner is amazing! Tears the crud off that laughed at petroleum solvents.
@@anthonyraffin1034 Yes, simple green is awesome, also consider Grease Off and citric acid is my go to for de-rusting. If you use citric acid, only soak the zamak items (gears etc...) for about an hour but all the steel can be soaked for 24 hours.
Great video and thanks for sharing. You have intrigued my curiosity in restoring the drill press I recently got from my mom who got it from her Uncle many years ago. I will need to verify what actual model and year the one I have is but I am pretty sure it is a 100 as it has the fancier style head band.
Hello. I love this series. Thank you for sharing. I have one of these drill presses. Mine also doesn’t have the headband so it makes me think it might be 1951 or 1952, however the motor is a Packard with a date of 11 55.. What are your thoughts?
The 100 series did not come with a motor but most people purchased a motor with the drill press at the time. When you say the motor is a Packard, do you mean its a Craftsman Packard made motor with a 115 prefix? If so then yes its most likely a 1955 machine and the previous owner removed the head band for whatever reason. If the motor is a Packard branded motor then its likely the original owner put that motor on it. Missing the headband is not the only indication of the 51-52 and some 53 models. If the hub and/ or feed stop bracket are painted and not chrome then its defiantly a 51-52 model. Regardless, your drill press is probably from sometime in the 1950s.
Jeff, I have a 100 series that my dad bought new. I also have the operating instructions for it, Model 103.23640 dated October 1946. I wanted to do some restoration and just happened to run across your videos. I am on #6. Mine is the grayish/blue color. Can you help me out on the correct color? if i am not mistaken you said you are in Georgia, I am as well. I do have a couple of other questions but I am early in my process. Thanks again on great videos.
David, congratulations on the 100. I am in GA near Stone Mountain. Go to my main YT channel page and click on the "3 or more links" next to the picture and click on show email address. Feel free to email me. As for the paint, Krylon #2937 Matte Dark Pearl and is the closest off-the-shelf match.
Hey Jeff...i have a 100 model that my wife inherited, when we got it the quill assy had been pulled out. I've never used a model like this but presumed that the art would easily go right back up into the splines and the rack would easily re-engage into the feed handle, but quill assy will not slide into the housing, even after i have removed the hub assy, the quill assy will not slide into the housing and won't even go in high enough to have the splines align with the pulley assy. Have you ever heard of or experienced this before? If so, how can i fix it?
Hello and thank you for your question. I really need to see some pics to understand the issue. Can you go over to The Garage Journal Forum, create a free account and post you issue along with some pics in this thread? www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/craftsman-drill-press-information-belts-bearings-chucks-keys-etc-1946-1984.489080/ This well help me and others figure out the issue and provide some solutions.
@@JeffsShop I have put the pictures in the garagejournal under the forum thread you specified. Thanks for your help in figuring this out for me. markt.2015
Yes but $9.45 in 1947 would be $130.45. That is still a deal since original MSAs today sell for over $300.00 and I know this guys on Garage Journal who sells his version of them for $175.00 shipped 😉
Hey Jeff, Great videos. very well done. I picked up one of these a few years ago. Its in such nice mint shape that it needs no restoration. Only the base had some rust on it. But now i want to make it shinny like yours.
Thank you. If the drill press is in really good condition and you want to preserve your paint, you can remove grease and oil with Grez Off (avoid Simple Green) and you should be safe to remove the rust with citric acid. Polishing the various parts should be fairly simple. Good luck on making the drill press the way you want it.
Thanks for the history of the 100 series. I'm pretty sure mine that I bought a week ago is a 1951. The motor is stamped January 5, 1951. I'm missing the Craftsman headband, so I'm hesitant to declare it is a 1951 without heading out to the pole barn to look at it more closely. Currently, I have the motor torn a part to replace both bearings and toggle switch.
Congratulations, that 100 should serve you well.
That King Sealy is SO SWEET! I have a 1947 King Sealy jigsaw. The whole saw, motor and stand were about $80.
I have been collecting all the King Seeley power tools since 2018, I have at least one version of all the tools except the Alien planer. All of my tools are outstanding performers. Congratulations on the jig saw.
Jeff, glad you are doing a series on the Model 100! Mine is a bench top 1956 15-1/2" 100 in Power Bronze. Fixed table and non-tilting motor mount. I was able to determine the date by looking at the "sardine can" motor capacitor. All parts and the column were cleaned and or polished on a lathe. The motor had no issues. Quill bearings cleaned and greased. Jacobs chuck cleaned and lubed. The rest of the press was lubed and adjusted. Kept the original paint. It's my dedicated wood-only drill press.
Flash, that sounds like a great machine. I gotta say, I love the look of the 100.
This is the one I have. Gut and clean. Some ugly castings with sand blows, a touch of filler after primer to fix
New bearings and a chuck rebuild kit, now I have .003 runout measured at 6" from chuck on .500 drillrod.
Congratulations on the drill press.
@JeffsShop thanks, current project is an Atlas TH54 lathe. Gotta say the simple green was a godsend, but the lathe is gunked up with 70 y/o grease gunk and chips. Straight simple green in heated ultrasonic cleaner is amazing! Tears the crud off that laughed at petroleum solvents.
@@anthonyraffin1034 Yes, simple green is awesome, also consider Grease Off and citric acid is my go to for de-rusting. If you use citric acid, only soak the zamak items (gears etc...) for about an hour but all the steel can be soaked for 24 hours.
Thanks a million for doing these videos.
I enjoy making them.
Great video and thanks for sharing. You have intrigued my curiosity in restoring the drill press I recently got from my mom who got it from her Uncle many years ago. I will need to verify what actual model and year the one I have is but I am pretty sure it is a 100 as it has the fancier style head band.
Thank you and congratulations on the drill press
Hello. I love this series. Thank you for sharing. I have one of these drill presses. Mine also doesn’t have the headband so it makes me think it might be 1951 or 1952, however the motor is a Packard with a date of 11 55.. What are your thoughts?
The 100 series did not come with a motor but most people purchased a motor with the drill press at the time. When you say the motor is a Packard, do you mean its a Craftsman Packard made motor with a 115 prefix? If so then yes its most likely a 1955 machine and the previous owner removed the head band for whatever reason. If the motor is a Packard branded motor then its likely the original owner put that motor on it. Missing the headband is not the only indication of the 51-52 and some 53 models. If the hub and/ or feed stop bracket are painted and not chrome then its defiantly a 51-52 model. Regardless, your drill press is probably from sometime in the 1950s.
Jeff, I have a 100 series that my dad bought new. I also have the operating instructions for it, Model 103.23640 dated October 1946. I wanted to do some restoration and just happened to run
across your videos. I am on #6. Mine is the grayish/blue color. Can you help me out on the correct color? if i am not mistaken you said you are in Georgia, I am as well. I do have a couple of other questions but I am early in my process. Thanks again on great videos.
David, congratulations on the 100. I am in GA near Stone Mountain. Go to my main YT channel page and click on the "3 or more links" next to the picture and click on show email address. Feel free to email me. As for the paint, Krylon #2937 Matte Dark Pearl and is the closest off-the-shelf match.
Hey Jeff...i have a 100 model that my wife inherited, when we got it the quill assy had been pulled out. I've never used a model like this but presumed that the art would easily go right back up into the splines and the rack would easily re-engage into the feed handle, but quill assy will not slide into the housing, even after i have removed the hub assy, the quill assy will not slide into the housing and won't even go in high enough to have the splines align with the pulley assy. Have you ever heard of or experienced this before? If so, how can i fix it?
Hello and thank you for your question. I really need to see some pics to understand the issue. Can you go over to The Garage Journal Forum, create a free account and post you issue along with some pics in this thread? www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/craftsman-drill-press-information-belts-bearings-chucks-keys-etc-1946-1984.489080/ This well help me and others figure out the issue and provide some solutions.
@@JeffsShop I have put the pictures in the garagejournal under the forum thread you specified. Thanks for your help in figuring this out for me. markt.2015
@@markt6131 thank you, both FrankLee and i replied to your post. That should solve the issue, post additional questions if something does not work.
A slow speed pulley kit for less than $10!!
Yes but $9.45 in 1947 would be $130.45. That is still a deal since original MSAs today sell for over $300.00 and I know this guys on Garage Journal who sells his version of them for $175.00 shipped 😉