as someone who has just gotten into climbing over the last couple years (dipped my toes in around 2016 and got serious about 2 years ago) seeing a young adam is like uncanny valley for some reason
it only takes 1 move to grade the climb, if there is only a single 9a move then it is a 9a climb because if you cant climb 9a it doesnt matter how juggy the rest of the route is, you wont make it past that move
did you get any answer? I m still looking for that track...thanks !
12 років тому
The difference is about 100 grams for every quickdraw you need on the route... If I count correctly, he clipped 9 quickdraws on the route and one biner at the anchor point... So that is like 1 kilo of weight you would carry with you during climbing. You loose some of it during the climb OFC, but still the difference, especially on harder overhanging routes is big... Also, he figures out the moves on the beginning, that's probably why he sent it on the second try ;-)
I thought that was only true for the Yosemite system, where a 5.11a climb means that the hardest move is 5.11a, whereas sport climb grades usually grade the entire climb taking into account how sustained it is? But even then, why would a few jugs at the beginning automatically mean that a climb is soft, when all that follows is devious? If you want, you consider the first few moves as part of the approach :-P
What was the whole "working the route" thing at the beggining? I'm new to climbing but normally when I go up a route I set the quickdraws and clip in in the same go, not quickdraws first and then climb again. Whats the difference?
@SirMarcGermani according to adam anyway. for years chilam balam had so much controversy surrounding it, and many people doubted its first ascent by bernabe fernandez and wondered if it was even possible. along comes adam who promptly redpointed it, and confirmed it as a soft 9b. the guy's just unreal!
Lo del mosequeton es el tipo de plano. Se llama un plano picado, al hacer lo de la parte de encima parece que el mosqueton lo tiene cerca, el plano después si os fijais lo tiene mas o menos a un mentro. Es un efecto optico que nos hace parecer lo que no es.
No se lo a echo a la segunda por que justo antes de llegar a la reunion , cuando sube le pie hay una chapa a la derecha y despues del cambio de plano la chapa tiene un mosqueton .(9:40)
+Jo Se sorry but thats not true! I live in the frankenjura and chalk is definitely allowed. Maybe you mean the Elbsanstein. There you can´t use chalk and any sorts of metal protection like cams, nuts etc.
LOVE THIS VIDEO; all parts of it! atmosphere, pictures, composition, thanks!
as someone who has just gotten into climbing over the last couple years (dipped my toes in around 2016 and got serious about 2 years ago) seeing a young adam is like uncanny valley for some reason
He is such a beast! I love watching Adam climb!
That's gotta be the hardest 9a there is - even has a slopery run out after all that torture.
Btw, great choice of music!
For some reason, it's really satisfying listening to the click of the quickdraw when Adam clips in :D
Amazing route, ferocious human being. Gratz Adam!
i am new to rock climbing and these heroes inspire me
Amazing route! Looking forward to the movie.
Thanks for the comment! I never really considered that, but it makes a lot of sense.
deadpoint off the double monos was crazy
Do you guys realize he was 17 when he did this? I can't fucking wrap my head around that. Goddamn he's good
11:00
"how many times did you try it?"
"...on the second try" *happy-face* :)
damn hes a beast
really awesome!!!!!!!!
thanks ! I finally got it from previous comment. This is right.
Anw I am stil speechless front of Adam's performance ^^
Truly Epic!
it only takes 1 move to grade the climb, if there is only a single 9a move then it is a 9a climb because if you cant climb 9a it doesnt matter how juggy the rest of the route is, you wont make it past that move
did you get any answer? I m still looking for that track...thanks !
The difference is about 100 grams for every quickdraw you need on the route... If I count correctly, he clipped 9 quickdraws on the route and one biner at the anchor point... So that is like 1 kilo of weight you would carry with you during climbing. You loose some of it during the climb OFC, but still the difference, especially on harder overhanging routes is big... Also, he figures out the moves on the beginning, that's probably why he sent it on the second try ;-)
Shazam says: Consolation from the group: Aillos. Album: Folkelarm Oslo 2008. Label: Etnisk Musikklubb
Hope you find it! Merry Christmas!!! :-)
I thought that was only true for the Yosemite system, where a 5.11a climb means that the hardest move is 5.11a, whereas sport climb grades usually grade the entire climb taking into account how sustained it is?
But even then, why would a few jugs at the beginning automatically mean that a climb is soft, when all that follows is devious? If you want, you consider the first few moves as part of the approach :-P
What was the whole "working the route" thing at the beggining? I'm new to climbing but normally when I go up a route I set the quickdraws and clip in in the same go, not quickdraws first and then climb again. Whats the difference?
Is the 1st redpoint attempt the attempt after wich you have "scouted" the climb with top rope?
@spikevista Oh yeah, thank you so much! :)
@ivanqaz The group is Áilloš & Åsa ~ Yoik & Body Yoik. Sami music, quite special...
Amazing... and now I've got sweaty hands
Insane
what is the soundtrack here? it's amazing!
Adam Ondra - AAAAAAARRRRRGH
:))))) :))))))) right :)))))
Al-Berto and the fried Bikinis - Single for a week
found it?
Strong guy
Please, tell me what the song title/artist at 3:30 - 10:00 is..PLEASE
Oh, and great skills there
It's called "consolation" by "aillos".
@SirMarcGermani according to adam anyway. for years chilam balam had so much controversy surrounding it, and many people doubted its first ascent by bernabe fernandez and wondered if it was even possible. along comes adam who promptly redpointed it, and confirmed it as a soft 9b. the guy's just unreal!
gotta love chezzhckh language while climbing hard
Don't worry guys, I'm just going to rest upside down in this hole right here.
whats the name of the song at the end of the video?
Had been looking for it too:
Áilloš & Åsa ~ Yoik & Body Yoik
The most acrobatic and elrgant climber ever?
Lo del mosequeton es el tipo de plano. Se llama un plano picado, al hacer lo de la parte de encima parece que el mosqueton lo tiene cerca, el plano después si os fijais lo tiene mas o menos a un mentro. Es un efecto optico que nos hace parecer lo que no es.
Does anyone know the song title starting at 3:40?
ese mosketon esta ahi como parte de la reunion para facilitar el descuelgue, muchas de las reuniones tienen uno...
vey hard men ondra is incredible
7:04 is one hell of a knee bar!
genius!
muito bom!
Nice klingon music
9a on second try and only 17y old. thats crazy.
Second try after working it.
consolation-Aillos
Thanks shazam!
No se lo a echo a la segunda por que justo antes de llegar a la reunion , cuando sube le pie hay una chapa a la derecha y despues del cambio de plano la chapa tiene un mosqueton .(9:40)
haha! downgrading from the computer chair. niiice lol
je to frajer doufám že mu to bude ještě dlouho lozit
7:20 he's the god damn batman
perdona amigo, tenias muucha razón, te entendi mal...ondra nos esta trolleando
Every time I want to train "A Muerte!!" I put the soundtrack of this video.....NOT!!
C'mooonnnn!!
No es un mosqueton es una cinta espres revisa el video...
Enzo oddo has done 9a+ at 14 years old (biographie) and la Rambla at 15...
So yes that guy is a damn rock climbing beast, but not the yougest =)
la rambla like adam on the 10 of february 2008, having only become 15 years old 5 days before...
01:16 "MMEEEEHHHHH!!!"
Áillos - Consolation
God climb, but in the Frankenjura there is no chalk allowed...
+Jo Se sorry but thats not true! I live in the frankenjura and chalk is definitely allowed. Maybe you mean the Elbsanstein. There you can´t use chalk and any sorts of metal protection like cams, nuts etc.
chalk is allowed in Franken jura
pipistrello!!!!
Áilloš & Åsa - Yoik & Body Yoik . i think i deserve a lot of thumbs up... :D
Hm, this is the actual song: Áilloš - "Consolation" - the video "yoik & body yoik" is actually misnamed. Yoik is a form of music, not a song title.
Native norwegian music :P
6:06 !!!
......and i thought chris sharma would scream alot 0.0
shazam told me:
Áillos & Asa - Yoik & Body Yoik
JAJAJA Aunque Ondra es muy bueno escalando en este video hay algo raro.
...!...Rs!.. .(Universal!...)UuULl!.. .Rs!...
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH
I AM A MORON!