A million years ago Arnaud visited North Wales to climb at Pen Trwyn. I was working “I’ve been a bad, bad boy” 7c+, at Lower Pen Trwyn, so my clips were in. He asked if he could have a go at the route whilst I rested. He’d have looked no less casual and poised than if he’d been walking to get the papers on a Sunday morning. Awesome display of balance, power and smooth movements. It doesn’t look like he’s lost any of that wonderful style. Always a delight to watch him move. Better still at my favourite crate, Ceuse. I never did redpoint that 7c+, bummer.
Now that’s how an anecdote is to be shared. Brilliant! Thanks for sharing. When asked why we climb, the great & highly underrated Ric Accamazo replied “ We climb for the memories”
This here video was my inspiration to pursue this type of Climbing. This and the "of the rock I asked for the moon". Truly unique perspective. I watch them both every now and then.
Thank you guys for this very inspiring movie! In some moments my palms were wet ;0) Grate route and grate moving! Excellent brave technique of climbing. I think I’ll take some moves for my climbing experience.
@@arnaudpetit2762 comment avez vous procédé pour le changement de corde au niveau de l'assurage ? si votre assureuse change de corde cela signifie que vous n'étiez plus assuré pendant un court moment ? bravo pour la réalisation de cette voie magnifique ! cette vidéo à elle seule donne envie d'avoir un bon niveau en 7/8 pour profiter de falaises et de voies comme celle-ci !
@@quentinrf6506 il suffit que l'assureur ait deux Grigris. La corde est de la même couleur car c'est la même (j'étais parti avec les deux bouts). Merci en tous cas ! Et bonne grimpe !!
Inspirational and an outstanding piece of work from a master climber. A testament to what can be achieved with a lifetime of conscious dedication. Thank you
Absolutely amazing climb with very little actual protection. Using two ropes and hauling some gear is brilliant. And then he just pops off his shoes, scary! Congratulations, Arnaud, on a tremendous climbing feat!
What a great piece of climbing not only is this a great and hard climb that you climb well, but more so because in this world of so called amazing new age climbers so many have lost the climbing courage that was required up until the 80s and 90s. When climbing on bolts you have a huge safety net almost as big as top roping but what you have done here is reapply the old ethics of climbing in the modern world a very bold and historic thing that I hope will be copied by more of your generation in the future. Thank you and your team for a great piece of filming and climbing, so many people today will watch and think you are mad for taking the risk but not me, I wish you safe climbing it the future and thanks again for this historic moment. HERBE
Peter Herbert Well for a start he has clearly done it on bolts or top rope more than a few times, how do you think he knows all the placements? And he's worked out how he can drop a rope and get half his gear up to be able to do the climb. As much as I admire him for doing it, how much of a fall do you think that thread is going to take?? It's all fun and games until someone gets hurt as they say, yes it's impressive but I'd rather climb on bolts anywhere but Arapiles.
I keep coming back to this one. The nature of the climb is totally different as a trad climb because of the added dimention of risk management which completely transforms the climb.
I spend at least an hour and a half a day on youtube, mostly on climbing videos, and never have I ever seen such a perfect, well constructed and well explained film. Incredible climbing and perfect gear positioni on such a hard route. Huge respect to Arnaud
I have a ligament injury...after watching this ascent I can feel a real advance in regeneration and a rush for climbing :D Cheers from Poland to all climbing freaks! ;)
Actually, when he placed two he alternated them. This way, if you fall then you load the highest cam downwards and the one next to it is loaded both upwards (from your rope tension) and downwards (from belayer-side tension).
Great stuff. I can tell that Petit put a ton of forethought and homework in on this one...the 2 cam "Mid Pitch Anchor" doesn't have a biner on the gear end (tiny chance, could break over the edge in a worst case scenario, totally unthinkable at this commitment level!) but is slung together with what looks like load limiter knots. Folks, don't try this at home...this is elite climbing craft.
Once he gets to the top he will create an anchor using multiple cams (3-4) placing them in the safest place he can find up top (unless there are bolts on top) and will clip into using a screw gate carabiner so hes safe. The dude at the bottom will take him off belay, and dude up top will pull all the rope until there is no more slack. Once he does this he will put the dude at the bottom on belay and he will climb up the same route, removing and recovering all the cams the first climber placed.
Incredible climbing and risk management. I'm curious if there was really no additional protection possible with hexes or tricams in all these limestone pockets. 15m runouts is crazy.
I am constantly worried about the rope getting or being behind his feet or legs. Allthough I see that falling in this overhanging terrain is even quite safe upside down. Is this kind of fear irrational?
Hard to see if it was to trad pro, but sometimes during filming the climbers will be asked to repeat certain sections in order for them to be captured better.
Holy shit you're a genius! Those are the obvious options in most climbs but its pretty obvious from this one that his belayer isn't going to climb up to follow him and remove gear on an 8b, and I think that rappelling option was thrown out the window when he throws the rope down from the top of the climb. The only reasonable option is to clip into chains of the top of the climb (which there are none), hook a quickdraw to your harness and the rope on the wall and remove the gear on the way down
wow impressive, was on the edge of my seat the entire climb, ESPECIALLY when he asked his belayer to run down the hill so he dosnt bottom out... nice climb! The £40+ cams just left there for the next person, standard :)
@adrianwaj Most likely by abseiling, if no camera crew is hanging out all over the place already. I guess in this case, they mopped up after him :-). Brilliant climb and beautiful video, by the way.
Magic! This might sound like a silly question/comment, but it looked like in the first section there were lots of places where Lowe TriCams would work really well. Or was that part just to easy to bother with more fiddly pro?
@KetzalSterling I'm sorry, but Onda/Sharma are not the be all and end all of climbing. Trad climbing is a different game which requires mental fortitude as well as physical strength. This isn't a stunt to get sponsors dollars, but beautiful demonstration of what trad climbing is all about. You must be in control both physically and mentally. Routes like this can be climbed without leaving ugly bolts there. Ketzal when is the last time you climbed anything above grade 14 on trad gear?
you are either a young/newer climber or not a climber just a watcher. Alex would gear that climb at that rating. Make no mistake that is as hard most of what Alex does with some big risks. Don't put down what one climber does just because you follow another. That was an amazing feat of skill
What´s the name of the last song and who sings it? Great end for even better climbing. He knows the route but his thecnical knowledge is amazing...yeaaaahhhh
Nyxel02 Well, it does make the climbing harder, since you have to carry the weight of the gear, plus it takes far more time to place the gear rather than just clipping in...
Nyxel02 It's not to make the climb much physically harder. It's to apply a mental challenge to it as well, and to add excitement between placements. Also, it's to climb as was done in the past: all on your own gear. It's not for those who just want the climb to say they did it.
I love it, no cheering, no emotion, he just drops the rope and looks down with a kind of "meh" look on his face, then just walks away. Epically french
And to think we've seen it all...at 9:59 Arnaud literally kills a bird out of the sky with his Muiras. Incredible.
wow that was crazy. Thanks for pointing it out!
So amazing. Unbelievable.
Every time I watch this I've got a bit more experience and appreciation for how nuts this is!
same
To be honest Scott, it's more cams than nuts in my opinion.
This is one of my favorite climbing videos, thanks for the inspiration!
agreed
Incredibly inspiring. One of my all-time favorite climbing films. Congrats on all the hard work that I know went into this.
Arnaud Petit toujours au top, incroyable de sérénité. Les frères Petit (Arnaud et François) sont vraiment nos légendes vivantes de l'escalade !
The greatest advert for Totems.
Absolutely wild climbing, and unbelievable attention to detail. We all could learn a lot from Arnaud's logistics.
A million years ago Arnaud visited North Wales to climb at Pen Trwyn. I was working “I’ve been a bad, bad boy” 7c+, at Lower Pen Trwyn, so my clips were in. He asked if he could have a go at the route whilst I rested. He’d have looked no less casual and poised than if he’d been walking to get the papers on a Sunday morning. Awesome display of balance, power and smooth movements. It doesn’t look like he’s lost any of that wonderful style. Always a delight to watch him move. Better still at my favourite crate, Ceuse. I never did redpoint that 7c+, bummer.
Now that’s how an anecdote is to be shared. Brilliant! Thanks for sharing. When asked why we climb, the great & highly underrated Ric Accamazo replied “ We climb for the memories”
This here video was my inspiration to pursue this type of Climbing. This and the "of the rock I asked for the moon". Truly unique perspective. I watch them both every now and then.
I watched this piece already many times and it still gets me all the time. Awesome climb, best style and super good video!
one of the best video I ever seen for climbing, Bravo Arnaud
balls of steel. beautiful line, incredible rock, awesome camera angles
Thank you guys for this very inspiring movie!
In some moments my palms were wet ;0)
Grate route and grate moving! Excellent brave technique of climbing. I think I’ll take some moves for my climbing experience.
Beautiful endurance, style and poise. Seriously inspiring send.
This video is a total youtube gem, and I think this style of ascent is awesome. Also a good vid of Joe Mohle in this style in south africa
Keep it up!
i would definitely have used ropes of two different colors for the "rope-changing"
I used the same rope actually - less weight to carry at the crag !
1. Thanks for your answer, really impressive climb!
2. Interesting solution but there is no way in hell I would have had the nerve for that
@@arnaudpetit2762 comment avez vous procédé pour le changement de corde au niveau de l'assurage ? si votre assureuse change de corde cela signifie que vous n'étiez plus assuré pendant un court moment ? bravo pour la réalisation de cette voie magnifique ! cette vidéo à elle seule donne envie d'avoir un bon niveau en 7/8 pour profiter de falaises et de voies comme celle-ci !
@@quentinrf6506 il suffit que l'assureur ait deux Grigris. La corde est de la même couleur car c'est la même (j'étais parti avec les deux bouts). Merci en tous cas ! Et bonne grimpe !!
Inspirational and an outstanding piece of work from a master climber. A testament to what can be achieved with a lifetime of conscious dedication. Thank you
one of the best climbing-clips I ever saw......
And Arnaud is a very nice and intelligent person.
wow man I only saw this now. Nothing but absolute respect. Well done.
Absolutely amazing climb with very little actual protection. Using two ropes and hauling some gear is brilliant. And then he just pops off his shoes, scary! Congratulations, Arnaud, on a tremendous climbing feat!
Bravo, great adventure climbing in the spirit of trad.
Wonderful technical climbing demonstrating great skill and courage.
What a great piece of climbing not only is this a great and hard climb that you climb well, but more so because in this world of so called amazing new age climbers so many have lost the climbing courage that was required up until the 80s and 90s. When climbing on bolts you have a huge safety net almost as big as top roping but what you have done here is reapply the old ethics of climbing in the modern world a very bold and historic thing that I hope will be copied by more of your generation in the future. Thank you and your team for a great piece of filming and climbing, so many people today will watch and think you are mad for taking the risk but not me, I wish you safe climbing it the future and thanks again for this historic moment.
HERBE
Peter Herbert Well for a start he has clearly done it on bolts or top rope more than a few times, how do you think he knows all the placements? And he's worked out how he can drop a rope and get half his gear up to be able to do the climb. As much as I admire him for doing it, how much of a fall do you think that thread is going to take?? It's all fun and games until someone gets hurt as they say, yes it's impressive but I'd rather climb on bolts anywhere but Arapiles.
Impressive climbing and excellent to see it done in a trad way. Excellent.
Beautifully executed. Some classic trad climbing at its best!
I keep coming back to this one. The nature of the climb is totally different as a trad climb because of the added dimention of risk management which completely transforms the climb.
The dynamic camera work at 5:27 is pretty fancy for a climbing vid. Big ups to the camera person
I think this was before drones.
I spend at least an hour and a half a day on youtube, mostly on climbing videos, and never have I ever seen such a perfect, well constructed and well explained film. Incredible climbing and perfect gear positioni on such a hard route. Huge respect to Arnaud
quel sang froid, dingue, bravo!
très belles prises de vues du cameraman
superbe nice job
Awesome! Such an inspiring ascent, and superbly filmed!
Thanks Bertrand! Perfect video, perfect route, perfect climbing! I've got a lot pleasure in frozen Saint Petersburg. Georgy, Russia
I have a ligament injury...after watching this ascent I can feel a real advance in regeneration and a rush for climbing :D Cheers from Poland to all climbing freaks! ;)
not sure about falling on that "thread", gift from nature or to good to be true
Magic!! Congratulations Arnaud & Steph!!
miss that place so much, just the world's best crag
Thanks, enjoy climbing !
I've watched this way too many times! One of my favourite rock climbing videos.
Still a great video. With “ On the rock I asked for the moon” the best ever made. When can we see more .... ?
Great ascent, great camera, awesome. Congratulations!!
Stunning...total respect.
Thank you for keeping the dream alive
A Dream of a route for me, incredible!
Some really interesting ideas with hauling up more cams and dropping your first rope. Cool!
Ahí va la hostia qué crack de pavo!! Súper todo, gracias!!
Incredible. The tactics used are cutting edge. What an amazing technical ascent.
This is the most badass thing i've ever seen
everyone who can climb on this level should try this route its incredibly good!!!
Beautiful send! Beautiful video. Nice work!
no me canso de ver este video!. uno de mis favoritos sin duda!
Super vidéo et surtout super voie ! Belle ascension
That was fucking art. Thank you.
Super inspiring, superb effort !
Excellent !
Beautiful video
Actually, when he placed two he alternated them. This way, if you fall then you load the highest cam downwards and the one next to it is loaded both upwards (from your rope tension) and downwards (from belayer-side tension).
Great stuff. I can tell that Petit put a ton of forethought and homework in on this one...the 2 cam "Mid Pitch Anchor" doesn't have a biner on the gear end (tiny chance, could break over the edge in a worst case scenario, totally unthinkable at this commitment level!) but is slung together with what looks like load limiter knots. Folks, don't try this at home...this is elite climbing craft.
Once he gets to the top he will create an anchor using multiple cams (3-4) placing them in the safest place he can find up top (unless there are bolts on top) and will clip into using a screw gate carabiner so hes safe. The dude at the bottom will take him off belay, and dude up top will pull all the rope until there is no more slack. Once he does this he will put the dude at the bottom on belay and he will climb up the same route, removing and recovering all the cams the first climber placed.
Chapeau! Turned a classic sport route into trad and made it look simple!
Actually the Totemcams are more efficient (for friction) this way for horizontals cracks.
Just amazing !
Toujours aussi sympa, Arnaud.
Incredible climbing and risk management. I'm curious if there was really no additional protection possible with hexes or tricams in all these limestone pockets. 15m runouts is crazy.
amazing! you do really feel the difficulty and the danger more than other 9a/b videos
After all these years, it's still one of the very best climbing movies ever!
Great couple work, also. Imagine you belay your spouse(?) in this..
I am constantly worried about the rope getting or being behind his feet or legs. Allthough I see that falling in this overhanging terrain is even quite safe upside down. Is this kind of fear irrational?
Arnaud did several climbs, it's why there are differents angles shots
really cool, and inspiring video, thanks
nice work very cool looking climb
very inspiring! great climbing
That's awesome! wish i could climb like that.
So after dropping the rope at the end, how did he get all that gear out? haha
Guessing he abseiled down. He mentioned headpointing it at the start in order to check placement quality.
This guy so badass that the gear comes to him.
Interesting strategy. Well Done!!
Great climb . Great sound track :)
Just plain awesome
Why is he clipped to a quickdraw @8:29? Confused by that, but this is badass climbing
Hard to see if it was to trad pro, but sometimes during filming the climbers will be asked to repeat certain sections in order for them to be captured better.
Holy shit you're a genius! Those are the obvious options in most climbs but its pretty obvious from this one that his belayer isn't going to climb up to follow him and remove gear on an 8b, and I think that rappelling option was thrown out the window when he throws the rope down from the top of the climb. The only reasonable option is to clip into chains of the top of the climb (which there are none), hook a quickdraw to your harness and the rope on the wall and remove the gear on the way down
This is a masterpiece for climbing video, I have a question about how does the camera move upward along the climber. How to keep it so steady?
Good job Petit! well done.
I watch this video once every morning. Not sure why
Je croyais que vous aviez dit qu'il y avait deux chiffres au compteur sur l'autre vidéo non sous-titrée. Il est tombé ou pas ?
wow impressive, was on the edge of my seat the entire climb, ESPECIALLY when he asked his belayer to run down the hill so he dosnt bottom out... nice climb! The £40+ cams just left there for the next person, standard :)
@adrianwaj Most likely by abseiling, if no camera crew is hanging out all over the place already. I guess in this case, they mopped up after him :-). Brilliant climb and beautiful video, by the way.
There are bolts on the rock. Why not use them, exactly?
he lost his rope at the top. How is he going to retrieve all of his gear / cams etc ?
Second pitch is insane. Runouts.....-outs. As in owts. Andy outs, faced a screamer on the limestone wall.
Magic!
This might sound like a silly question/comment, but it looked like in the first section there were lots of places where Lowe TriCams would work really well. Or was that part just to easy to bother with more fiddly pro?
who would dislike something lke this
Big applause for him!
Absolutely insane.
@KetzalSterling I'm sorry, but Onda/Sharma are not the be all and end all of climbing. Trad climbing is a different game which requires mental fortitude as well as physical strength. This isn't a stunt to get sponsors dollars, but beautiful demonstration of what trad climbing is all about. You must be in control both physically and mentally. Routes like this can be climbed without leaving ugly bolts there. Ketzal when is the last time you climbed anything above grade 14 on trad gear?
So awesome!
Does anybody know what the music in the first half of the video is??? I can't figure it out.
7 years late but its Angels by Ramon140
you are either a young/newer climber or not a climber just a watcher. Alex would gear that climb at that rating. Make no mistake that is as hard most of what Alex does with some big risks. Don't put down what one climber does just because you follow another. That was an amazing feat of skill
What´s the name of the last song and who sings it? Great end for even better climbing. He knows the route but his thecnical knowledge is amazing...yeaaaahhhh
sad robot, pornophonique
What camera was this filmed with? 5d? Huge fall at 10:25 awesome.
really nice video!
That was awesome.
Is this limestone ?
wow, und solches Vertrauen in die Cams... fuh... sehr sehr mutig!
und waghalsig... aber natürlich auch genial!
i dont see the point in using cams if the route is bolted anyways it doesnt make it harder to climb just more dangerous
Nyxel02 Well, it does make the climbing harder, since you have to carry the weight of the gear, plus it takes far more time to place the gear rather than just clipping in...
Nyxel02 It's not to make the climb much physically harder. It's to apply a mental challenge to it as well, and to add excitement between placements. Also, it's to climb as was done in the past: all on your own gear. It's not for those who just want the climb to say they did it.
Beautiful
Someone seconds. You secure them from the top and they remove the gear as they climb up. Either that or you remove them on rappel afterwards...
Great send!