Great information Matt. However, in the future as an add, please talk to the spacing of butt joints in form boards to avoid the stairstep affect in butt joints in adjacent boards. Not all form board patterns are vertical as in your examples. As a specifier, I include for the minimum number of boards between butt joints occurring in the same bearing location and a minimum distance between butt joints in adjacent boards boards (such as 16 inch or 24 inch). Great videos always. I enjoy your interviews at Dr Joe's summer camp.
Those ties are clearly visible after stripping. Cone ties are easier to patch and leave a nicer pattern. We use rough cedar on our board form walls, with double wailers. Have to take 3/4" off the wailers on one side though to be able to use cone ties. Check out the black concrete walls at Michael Bubles house that we did. I can't tell you where it is because I signed a waiver... Anybody need advice on spiral concrete stairs? Architectural formwork guru here. Ask me anything.
Thanks Matt.Very helpful and informative. I am about to start a very small project, gate posts approximately 24" x 24" and maybe 36" high (I know you guys in the states like feet in inches) to then hang some hopefully, pretty cool looking contempory gates.With this sort of formwork/shuttering do you feel that I would benefit from a release agent, on the timber, before I pour? Any comments would be welcome. Thanks again Guys.
Hey Matt I am about to pour my first architectural concrete walls, and I was wondering what do you meant with dog fur. And also after the pour what kind of additional finishing do you do? And what kind of sealing do you use so the concrete remains the cleanest and with out shine. Thanks again! Great content!
Thanks for the great video Matt! How do you handle control and/or expansion joints on long board formed walls? Especially when the boards are being run horizontally? Interested in site walls in particular. Thanks!
Can I get this pattern on an existing old basement wall (concrete block)? Perhaps by applying stucco to the wall and then applying a pre-built form over the stucco until dry?
What if you like the Modern look of board formed concrete but you have a wood frame house that needs new siding ? Could you just get back to the open studs, add exterior insulation board, furring strips, paper and stucco wire lath, then screw doug fir 2x8s to the studs leaving a 2" gap, then pour concrete to fill the space between the insulation boards and the 2x8s? Then remove the 2x8s and screws, and screw them higher to pour another "lift" ? That would let the existing house framing be one side of the concrete form and the screws replace snap ties. I don't see how you could pour a full thickness concrete wall right up against an existing house, so how else could you get a board formed concrete exterior ?
First thing is to make sure the foundation can handle the weight. Another option is to do ferrocement and stamp the cement with the wood. It'd be much lighter, use some acrylic bond on the outer layer to make it waterproof
@@inarafiredragon01 yes, I do worry that 2" thick concrete might be too heavy for lath attached to studs to support without cracking. That is over twice typical stucco thickness and weight. Ferro cement or just a stucco scratch and brown coat, followed by a thin layer to be stamped sounds workable, but I would like to see it has been successfully done to create the board formed look. Lots of examples of stamping to look like stone, but I haven't found board formed look.
Hello Matt, Thank you for your informative attractive videos. Are you still recommending plasticiser for this type of form work? I am planning to use the techniques you demonstrated in this video for my white cement retaining walls. Can you please advise? I do welcome any tips I can use. Thanks! George
Hi, I am researching about using Cement Boards ( WonderBoard Lite or DUROROCK boards. ) for the wall form-work instead of plywood .and leave them as finishing. This will help my project in reducing wood waste and speed up the finishing process. Have you seen this approach before? Is this something that you would recommend as concrete form-work ?
Hey Matt I'm looking to use this method on a job site of mine, most likely it will be manual poured using a shoot what precautions do I need to take to ensure my quality is not compromised?
Take a look at our fiberglass form ties for architectural board form concrete. Far and away easier to install than the ties mentioned here. Accomplishes the same purpose and task. Cheers. sigmadg.com/fiberglass-form-ties-for-concrete-forming.html
I’d vibe every 2 feet or less. Constant vibrating is a must to prevent any honey combing. Dip in deep and all the way through the stretch of the parameter.
You can get rid of bug holes and honeycombs if you use the right form release, and apply it correctly, too much form release creates MORE honeycombing, if your "phd" concrete guys dont already know this, and they dont judging by all the bug holes, then id get a different concrete guy.
Great tips +Matt ...loyal subscriber here and look forward to your videos each week. I'm working on a board formed project here in Maine currently and recorded a video from an architect's perspective: ua-cam.com/video/688MeG_RKRM/v-deo.html Did you use a super-plasticizer in the mix? Thanks again...
2:46 That is in no way a 5" slump but more like a 7" or even 8" slump. Why not use aluminum forms, they go up quicker and are much stronger that the wood...
For designer concrete relief wood grain texture...sandblasting the inside of wood form really pops the grain detail. www.lifeofanarchitect.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Board-Formed-Concrete-small.jpg
You want to use nails not screws, screws do not have anywhere close to the shear strength that nails do, you can pull a nail just as fast as a screw and don’t have to carry an extra tool.
I always enjoy these high end videos and the techniques therein; but I can never get it out of my head the amount of time, labor and money that goes into it. The use of resources just seem like a waste. Then again, it's not my money to spend.
i want to learn how to pour concrete with wood without the thing collapsing and wasting me money... and you want to get obsessed with cosmetics... grow up...
Some great videos Matt,Good to see a real pro at work
Great information Matt. However, in the future as an add, please talk to the spacing of butt joints in form boards to avoid the stairstep affect in butt joints in adjacent boards. Not all form board patterns are vertical as in your examples. As a specifier, I include for the minimum number of boards between butt joints occurring in the same bearing location and a minimum distance between butt joints in adjacent boards boards (such as 16 inch or 24 inch).
Great videos always. I enjoy your interviews at Dr Joe's summer camp.
Hey Matt, you're a class act my brother!
+Tony Longoria thanks!
I couldnt find boards that had enough wood grain for my taste so I flamed boards and power washed off the char and voila, wood grain!
Nice idea chap. Release agent used?
do we apply shuttering oil on the board forms?
Hi Matt what do you suggest more, oil or water Release Agent for board form concrete? I'm confused on what to use. Thanks
Chemically reactive release agent, nox crete quick release
Matt in order to have the steel pipe to be at the bottom of the formwork the wall must relatively thick?
Awesome video, lots of great information
Sir, have you poured many walls?
Hi Matt are exposed concrete walls cheaper or more expensive than regular plaster and painted concrete walls? Please advise, thanks
Do you have to insulate the inside walls or can you leave exposed concrete on both sides?
thank you
Those ties are clearly visible after stripping. Cone ties are easier to patch and leave a nicer pattern. We use rough cedar on our board form walls, with double wailers. Have to take 3/4" off the wailers on one side though to be able to use cone ties. Check out the black concrete walls at Michael Bubles house that we did. I can't tell you where it is because I signed a waiver...
Anybody need advice on spiral concrete stairs? Architectural formwork guru here. Ask me anything.
Where do you work out of? As in state and area. Thanks.
Thanks Matt.Very helpful and informative. I am about to start a very small project, gate posts approximately 24" x 24" and maybe 36" high (I know you guys in the states like feet in inches) to then hang some hopefully, pretty cool looking contempory gates.With this sort of formwork/shuttering do you feel that I would benefit from a release agent, on the timber, before I pour?
Any comments would be welcome. Thanks again Guys.
Hey Matt I am about to pour my first architectural concrete walls, and I was wondering what do you meant with dog fur. And also after the pour what kind of additional finishing do you do? And what kind of sealing do you use so the concrete remains the cleanest and with out shine.
Thanks again! Great content!
Just a heads up, Matt said doug fir, a species of tree, commonly used for framing and in other rough construction.
Thanks for the great video Matt! How do you handle control and/or expansion joints on long board formed walls? Especially when the boards are being run horizontally? Interested in site walls in particular. Thanks!
Can I get this pattern on an existing old basement wall (concrete block)? Perhaps by applying stucco to the wall and then applying a pre-built form over the stucco until dry?
Hey Matt, I'm building a small remote cabin and I'm considering board forming the walls. Is there a way to do this well without heavy machinery?
it's that safe that i use rated 300kg/cm concrete ?
Could anyone kindly explain, How the Cover blocks are hidden on exposed concrete walls and slabs? 😊
Should have used nox crete pre form on the rough sawn lumber, it would look SO much nicer
Great tips!
What if you like the Modern look of board formed concrete but you have a wood frame house that needs new siding ? Could you just get back to the open studs, add exterior insulation board, furring strips, paper and stucco wire lath, then screw doug fir 2x8s to the studs leaving a 2" gap, then pour concrete to fill the space between the insulation boards and the 2x8s? Then remove the 2x8s and screws, and screw them higher to pour another "lift" ? That would let the existing house framing be one side of the concrete form and the screws replace snap ties.
I don't see how you could pour a full thickness concrete wall right up against an existing house, so how else could you get a board formed concrete exterior ?
First thing is to make sure the foundation can handle the weight.
Another option is to do ferrocement and stamp the cement with the wood. It'd be much lighter, use some acrylic bond on the outer layer to make it waterproof
@@inarafiredragon01 yes, I do worry that 2" thick concrete might be too heavy for lath attached to studs to support without cracking. That is over twice typical stucco thickness and weight. Ferro cement or just a stucco scratch and brown coat, followed by a thin layer to be stamped sounds workable, but I would like to see it has been successfully done to create the board formed look. Lots of examples of stamping to look like stone, but I haven't found board formed look.
Hello Matt, Thank you for your informative attractive videos. Are you still
recommending plasticiser for this type of form work? I am planning to use the techniques you demonstrated in this video for my white cement retaining walls.
Can you please advise? I do welcome any tips I can use.
Thanks!
George
Hi Matt. Thanks for another great video. What’s your take on RBM foam concrete?
Hi, I am researching about using Cement Boards ( WonderBoard Lite or DUROROCK boards. ) for the wall form-work instead of plywood .and leave them as finishing. This will help my project in reducing wood waste and speed up the finishing process. Have you seen this approach before? Is this something that you would recommend as concrete form-work ?
Hey Matt I'm looking to use this method on a job site of mine, most likely it will be manual poured using a shoot what precautions do I need to take to ensure my quality is not compromised?
Take a look at our fiberglass form ties for architectural board form concrete. Far and away easier to install than the ties mentioned here. Accomplishes the same purpose and task. Cheers.
sigmadg.com/fiberglass-form-ties-for-concrete-forming.html
Ashley Mcwatters where do you guys sell online? Can’t find 400 ties anywhere
Hey Matt, Great vid, Had a question would you Vibe every 2Ft or pour the wall then run the Vibes from the bottom? Thanks
I’d vibe every 2 feet or less. Constant vibrating is a must to prevent any honey combing. Dip in deep and all the way through the stretch of the parameter.
did you come back and show us the finish walls? paint? stain the walls
what do you call this type of wall system? any body "besides concrete wall"
In-Situ pour concrete forms
Hey Matt, do you ever use ICF (Insulated Concrete Forms)?
+Fred yes. Check out my Bautex videos
What are your thoughts on adding steal fibers to the concrete mix like Helix?
Rust discoloration on surface, and possibly weakness in wall.
Adding Flyash to your mix may help.
You can get rid of bug holes and honeycombs if you use the right form release, and apply it correctly, too much form release creates MORE honeycombing, if your "phd" concrete guys dont already know this, and they dont judging by all the bug holes, then id get a different concrete guy.
Great tips +Matt ...loyal subscriber here and look forward to your videos each week. I'm working on a board formed project here in Maine currently and recorded a video from an architect's perspective: ua-cam.com/video/688MeG_RKRM/v-deo.html
Did you use a super-plasticizer in the mix?
Thanks again...
Yes we did!
2:46 That is in no way a 5" slump but more like a 7" or even 8" slump. Why not use aluminum forms, they go up quicker and are much stronger that the wood...
I noticed that too 😁
Aluminum forms are great if your not worried about the finish, or getting your foundations within a 1/16th
For designer concrete relief wood grain texture...sandblasting the inside of wood form really pops the grain detail.
www.lifeofanarchitect.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Board-Formed-Concrete-small.jpg
Wooooow
silicone
not Tadao Ando quality.
Must charge a crap ton, so much work for same result
You want to use nails not screws, screws do not have anywhere close to the shear strength that nails do, you can pull a nail just as fast as a screw and don’t have to carry an extra tool.
The only thing i don't like is the dull grey color of concrete. Adding some pigments would make a big difference in appearance.
Staining can be done after. With more color control.
Ur so dreamy
Use:
Screeewss + sillyconnn
I always enjoy these high end videos and the techniques therein; but I can never get it out of my head the amount of time, labor and money that goes into it. The use of resources just seem like a waste.
Then again, it's not my money to spend.
Art takes time and money. We need utility but we need art, too.
100% disagree with using screws to fasten your forms... pain in the ass to strip
ˈsiləˌkōn
i want to learn how to pour concrete with wood without the thing collapsing and wasting me money... and you want to get obsessed with cosmetics... grow up...
Best way to do it is not. Don't be tempted, just don't do it. It's like a tattoo, it's always a mistake and you can never take it back :)
Wait... you caulk your boards?