I have toaks wood stove, for it to perform well, 1) place the stove on an aluminium foil, not on grass for it chokes air flow beneath the stove . 2) Never overfeed or fill the stove, only add 50% wood, for air flow, wood sticks should be placed vertically not horizontally for air to flow from beneath, As it burns keep feeding wood. Then it will be highly effective. I am using toaks 4yrs...
@@CampWithMatt if you use hard wood, just 50% filling the wood in burn chamber of the stove is sufficient to bring 1 or 2 cup of water to boil fast. When the fire gets established, gradually feed medium pieces of stick 2 or 3 at a time..to keep the flame going. 🙂
@@CampWithMatt Also, use Toaks cross bars for the stove to get the pot off the top, this will improve your experience. You may also want to use a 750/900 ml pot instead of a large kettle. As for stability, use two tent stakes if you are worried about knocking it over.
This. Make sure the wood stays below the top row of holes in the bottom part of the burn chamber. This allows a secondary flame to come up when it is hot enough. This is the gassification and makes it nearly smoke free. It is not fire and forget unfortunately, you will need to constantly maintain. But when you do, you should be able to get half a liter of water boiling in a few minutes
😊The gasifier works when the oxygen and wood gas comes out of the holes in the chamber. You get a chimney effect where the hot air raises in the space between outer wall and inner chamber Don't overfill the chamber. It choked the gas/oxygen flow Wait until you see a beautiful flame pattern from the side holes of the chamber, before you put the kettle on You will then have an effective and hot burn Feed sticks in the stove gradually . . Don't overfeed. And good luck with next test 😊👍
Titanium is actually a bad material to do a gasifier stove. It cools down very quick, and gasifiers needs air to be preheated. Stainless steel will accumulate more heat and will make a better "buffer" of heat when adding more fuel. I got a copy of this toaks stove, and it's working so much better! The feed hole is begger and not as much at the top. Way easier to add some wood! The holes on the bottom are WAY bigger, so it doesn't starve of oxygen at the base. Also it's a bit bigger, and made of stainless steel. It's not heavy, at 200gr give or take. And it doesn't take ages to cool down. Each time I see the "real" toaks, I'm seeing how bad it performs compared to the copy. Also usually I fill it up for the initial startup, and after that I let it use its wood (the initial fill can last more then 20m depending on the type of wodd), and then when I refill, I don't fill it that much as it will gasify way better at this stage. Also, top down technique is the way to go with theses!
I used a wood stove on one hike. I would say if there is rain in the forcast or recent past, leave it at home. I also scrounged campfires for charcoals, looked under shelteres for very dry wood.If those two existed, it worked pretty well (charcoal the best but left your hands black scrounging). The extra time hunting fuel was just one more chore, vs one more thing you don't have to carry. Eventually moved to cold coffee and food you don't need heat for, this worked the best as there was no hot stove that you wanted to pack first anyway.
Is that the smaller v12 or the v11? I believe the smaller doesn't work very well. Just my experience. I have the large and once started it does super well even in windy conditions. I use a cross to raise my pot a little higher. Performs better with more air flow.
@@GarryNichols it's the smaller one, I think it's just too small to burn efficiently. It also came with no cross stand, others have mentioned that too, but it's not shown on the listing or on the box...
Where is the titanium cross-stand that comes with this stove? It keeps your pot slightly lifted above the top rim of the stove and prevents the excess smoke situation you had. You're not supposed to place pots and other cooking vessels directly onto the rim of the stove, hence why Toaks supply the two-piece cross-stand. But I do agree with your position on this. I have the larger version of this stove from Toaks, and it is equally as useless as this one. The biggest issues are the lack of space between the layers for the stove to re-ignite the woodgas, and the fact its titanium construction means it doesn't retain heat well enough to gasify the wood smoke, and lastly, the lack of stability due to how tall everythinbg is once you put a pot on it.
Thanks for your comment! It looks like the the smaller one doesn't come with it - it's not in the pictures on Amazon where I bought it, and it wasn't in my box! In short, don't get this stove, it just doesn't burn efficiently...
hello matt this construction is a failure ...i have one myself ( disaster ) ....the problem is the primary to seconadary air ratio ...it's 1040 to 1356. it's calculated by measuring the 60 holes in the bottom, which is 4,7 mm each = pi x radius x radius x 60 = 3,14 x 2,35 x 2,35 x 60 = 1040 mm2 and the 12 sideholes is 12 mm = pi x radius x radius x 12 = 3,14 x 6 x 6 x 12 = 1356 mm2 ....this ratio is not enough ...since it's close to 1 : 1, so we need more primary air ...it could be done by drilling the 60 holes up to 8 mm ...then it's raised to 3014 mm2, which at least give us a ratio around 2,2 : 1 and if it was possible a ratio of 4 : 1 would be better, but we can't drill the holes to more than around 8 mm ( material between holes ). when this is done we have a new problem ...which is the airgap in the bottom of the stove ...note it's very close to the ground ...so try to make some clearance by lifting the stove or dig a small hole under the stove so it can breath. for those who want to calculate go look up 'heath putnam' ...he have some fantastic videos with a lot of test and math's of gasifier stoves. 🙂good luck.
I agree with your position on this. I have the larger version of this stove from Toaks, and it is equally as useless as this one. The biggest issues are the lack of space between the layers for the stove to re-ignite the woodgas, and the fact its titanium construction means it doesn't retain heat well enough to gasify the wood smoke, and lastly, the lack of stability due to how tall everythinbg is once you put a pot on it.
@@Funkteon Super interesting chaps - I assumed the issue was the overall size of the stove, the fact that you have to refill it multiple times, just to boil a cup of water tells you that the thing is just not big enough. What surprised me about your comment is that even the larger one doesn't burn efficiently. Tells you all you need to know! Definitely the base is too close to the ground, it gets blocked with ash quickly. Too small, badly designed, doesn't work.
That is super interesting - I hadn't considered this. Obvious those fixes are hard to achieve on the smaller version of this stove, the fact that even the larger one doesn't burn properly says it all. Bad design, unfortunately.
@@Funkteon exactly everything is wrong ...included the high price i ended up using only the top part ( windscreen + cross stand ) as a stove ...so now it's not a gasifier anymore ...but it actually works great, just feed it constantly with wood because now it's hungry :-)
benjamin ...no matter how many skills you've got ...you can't get this toaks stove run properly. it's just as said a construction failure/disaster/no-go stove.
I have toaks wood stove, for it to perform well, 1) place the stove on an aluminium foil, not on grass for it chokes air flow beneath the stove . 2) Never overfeed or fill the stove, only add 50% wood, for air flow, wood sticks should be placed vertically not horizontally for air to flow from beneath, As it burns keep feeding wood. Then it will be highly effective. I am using toaks 4yrs...
Good tips. Do you have to refill the stove just heating a cup of water? Or is it one shot when you use it?
@@CampWithMatt if you use hard wood, just 50% filling the wood in burn chamber of the stove is sufficient to bring 1 or 2 cup of water to boil fast. When the fire gets established, gradually feed medium pieces of stick 2 or 3 at a time..to keep the flame going. 🙂
@@elimgrc1292 will give it a go!
@@CampWithMatt Also, use Toaks cross bars for the stove to get the pot off the top, this will improve your experience. You may also want to use a 750/900 ml pot instead of a large kettle. As for stability, use two tent stakes if you are worried about knocking it over.
This. Make sure the wood stays below the top row of holes in the bottom part of the burn chamber. This allows a secondary flame to come up when it is hot enough. This is the gassification and makes it nearly smoke free. It is not fire and forget unfortunately, you will need to constantly maintain. But when you do, you should be able to get half a liter of water boiling in a few minutes
😊The gasifier works when the oxygen and wood gas comes out of the holes in the chamber.
You get a chimney effect where the hot air raises in the space between outer wall and inner chamber
Don't overfill the chamber. It choked the gas/oxygen flow
Wait until you see a beautiful flame pattern from the side holes of the chamber, before you put the kettle on
You will then have an effective and hot burn
Feed sticks in the stove gradually . . Don't overfeed.
And good luck with next test 😊👍
Thanks, will give that a go. Am pretty frustrated with it!!
Titanium is actually a bad material to do a gasifier stove.
It cools down very quick, and gasifiers needs air to be preheated.
Stainless steel will accumulate more heat and will make a better "buffer" of heat when adding more fuel.
I got a copy of this toaks stove, and it's working so much better!
The feed hole is begger and not as much at the top. Way easier to add some wood!
The holes on the bottom are WAY bigger, so it doesn't starve of oxygen at the base.
Also it's a bit bigger, and made of stainless steel.
It's not heavy, at 200gr give or take.
And it doesn't take ages to cool down.
Each time I see the "real" toaks, I'm seeing how bad it performs compared to the copy.
Also usually I fill it up for the initial startup, and after that I let it use its wood (the initial fill can last more then 20m depending on the type of wodd), and then when I refill, I don't fill it that much as it will gasify way better at this stage.
Also, top down technique is the way to go with theses!
Interesting. Which copy stove do you have, can you share a link?
I used a wood stove on one hike. I would say if there is rain in the forcast or recent past, leave it at home. I also scrounged campfires for charcoals, looked under shelteres for very dry wood.If those two existed, it worked pretty well (charcoal the best but left your hands black scrounging). The extra time hunting fuel was just one more chore, vs one more thing you don't have to carry. Eventually moved to cold coffee and food you don't need heat for, this worked the best as there was no hot stove that you wanted to pack first anyway.
Often it's easier to use gas.... The wood was definitely dry though!
Is that the smaller v12 or the v11? I believe the smaller doesn't work very well. Just my experience. I have the large and once started it does super well even in windy conditions. I use a cross to raise my pot a little higher. Performs better with more air flow.
@@GarryNichols it's the smaller one, I think it's just too small to burn efficiently. It also came with no cross stand, others have mentioned that too, but it's not shown on the listing or on the box...
Where is the titanium cross-stand that comes with this stove? It keeps your pot slightly lifted above the top rim of the stove and prevents the excess smoke situation you had. You're not supposed to place pots and other cooking vessels directly onto the rim of the stove, hence why Toaks supply the two-piece cross-stand. But I do agree with your position on this. I have the larger version of this stove from Toaks, and it is equally as useless as this one. The biggest issues are the lack of space between the layers for the stove to re-ignite the woodgas, and the fact its titanium construction means it doesn't retain heat well enough to gasify the wood smoke, and lastly, the lack of stability due to how tall everythinbg is once you put a pot on it.
Thanks for your comment! It looks like the the smaller one doesn't come with it - it's not in the pictures on Amazon where I bought it, and it wasn't in my box! In short, don't get this stove, it just doesn't burn efficiently...
hello matt
this construction is a failure ...i have one myself ( disaster ) ....the problem is the primary to seconadary air ratio ...it's 1040 to 1356. it's calculated by measuring the 60 holes in the bottom, which is 4,7 mm each = pi x radius x radius x 60 = 3,14 x 2,35 x 2,35 x 60 = 1040 mm2 and the 12 sideholes is 12 mm = pi x radius x radius x 12 = 3,14 x 6 x 6 x 12 = 1356 mm2 ....this ratio is not enough ...since it's close to 1 : 1, so we need more primary air ...it could be done by drilling the 60 holes up to 8 mm ...then it's raised to 3014 mm2, which at least give us a ratio around 2,2 : 1 and if it was possible a ratio of 4 : 1 would be better, but we can't drill the holes to more than around 8 mm ( material between holes ). when this is done we have a new problem ...which is the airgap in the bottom of the stove ...note it's very close to the ground ...so try to make some clearance by lifting the stove or dig a small hole under the stove so it can breath. for those who want to calculate go look up 'heath putnam' ...he have some fantastic videos with a lot of test and math's of gasifier stoves. 🙂good luck.
I agree with your position on this. I have the larger version of this stove from Toaks, and it is equally as useless as this one. The biggest issues are the lack of space between the layers for the stove to re-ignite the woodgas, and the fact its titanium construction means it doesn't retain heat well enough to gasify the wood smoke, and lastly, the lack of stability due to how tall everythinbg is once you put a pot on it.
@@Funkteon Super interesting chaps - I assumed the issue was the overall size of the stove, the fact that you have to refill it multiple times, just to boil a cup of water tells you that the thing is just not big enough. What surprised me about your comment is that even the larger one doesn't burn efficiently. Tells you all you need to know! Definitely the base is too close to the ground, it gets blocked with ash quickly. Too small, badly designed, doesn't work.
That is super interesting - I hadn't considered this. Obvious those fixes are hard to achieve on the smaller version of this stove, the fact that even the larger one doesn't burn properly says it all. Bad design, unfortunately.
@@Funkteon exactly everything is wrong ...included the high price
i ended up using only the top part ( windscreen + cross stand ) as a stove ...so now it's not a gasifier anymore ...but it actually works great, just feed it constantly with wood because now it's hungry :-)
@@CampWithMatt the small version is dumpster ready in my eyes .....only the big one as i've got is worth modding
size comparison toaks small ( STV-12 ) vs. toaks big ( STV-11 )
Weight: 5.4 oz (151g)
Dimensions: Packed: 3 3/4" (D) x 3 3/4" (H) ( 94 mm x 94 mm )
Assembled: 3 3/4" (D) x 7 1/4" (H) (94mm x 183mm)
Burning chamber: 2 7/8" (74mm) (D) x 3 5/8" (92mm) (H)
Weight: 7.9 oz (225g)
Dimensions: Packed: 4 1/8" (D) x 4 1/8" (H) (105mm x 105mm)
Assembled: 4 1/8" (D) x 8" (H) (105mm x 205mm)
Burning chamber: 3 3/4" (95mm) (D) x 4" (100mm) (H)
It's not massively bigger, but maybe just big enough...
skill issue
Totally could be. What changes would you make? Bottom up was fine, top down, not happy
benjamin ...no matter how many skills you've got ...you can't get this toaks stove run properly. it's just as said a construction failure/disaster/no-go stove.