I Have Everything I Need, But Still No A/C Compressor!!! What's Going On??
Вставка
- Опубліковано 1 чер 2023
- Budget friendly, professional style scanner
amzn.to/3UMSN7D
Basic Code Reader
amzn.to/3GZFDhT
Blue tooth scan tool
amzn.to/3org3vL
Perfect panel trim tool
amzn.to/40hPshS
Push pin removal pliers
amzn.to/3US2FN7
Excellent beginner plus tool kit
amzn.to/3UY6e4z
Excellent Basic Starter Tool Kit
amzn.to/41JVRn2
Must Have Gearwrench set
amzn.to/3AfZNAc
Power Probe Circuit Tester
amzn.to/3mOrQ6N
Basic Test Light
amzn.to/40mKdNN
@WrenchingWithKenny @traditionovertrend2704 @snafuperformance2136 #wrenchingwithkenny #wesselmotorworks #keepwrenching - Авто та транспорт
What we do as a preventive we change the fixed orifice tube only takes a second we are always finding them dirty
I'm pretty sure most vehicles now use expansion valve type systems. I'm like you though, if it has a orfice tube replace it. Of course if it's real dirty, then odds are so is the rest of the system and it'll get dirty again. Black means bad, or going bad pump... not good.
We do an orfice tube and accumulator with every compressor.
I have a habor freight air powered vac pump it sucks but does work
Inflation is most definitely in play now with the gauges at Harbor Freight coming in at $64.99! Great video my brother Kenny!
Sometimes you need 3 elbows and 2 wrists to get at some the bolts.
The round head Snap-On fine tooth ratchets are the best they ever made. I have short and a long handled ones that are many years old, used regularly, and as long as I keep them lubed up, they work great.
Anothe great video Kenny.
AHA! Finally, something to which I can speak. 😁 A manufacturer for which I worked made among other things, AC-compressor- and other electromagnetic clutches. I was in the Clutch Department, on the Coil Line. Clutch coils were tested at the beginning and end of the assembly line; not only for continuity, but for Hypot (high-potential, putting 1,000 volts across one end of the coil winding and its housing, to ensure there weren't shorted turns), and a check to ensure that the later back-EMF-diode equipped coils still had said diodes intact. If there was a failure on any of these tests, that coil was scrapped.
With Murphy being who he is, there were still bad coils that made it out the door. Our corporate customers let us know about it in no uncertain terms, trust me.
The first thing I noticed is that you didn't do a resistance test on the original clutch coil (you might not have been able to, as close as things were; "you gotta be a contortionist"). If memory serves, they should read in the vicinity of 4 Ohms (for a current draw of 3 Amps at 12 Volts). If the coil has a back-EMF diode built in, reversing ohmmeter leads should yield a higher reading in one direction, lower in the opposite. You might have been able to do this test after the compressor was off the engine.
And Lord, yes, don't strip threads in aluminum. Ask me how I know. 😲
Foghorn at 14:10 ? 😆
As always, a great video. 👍🏼
Like the load test. Need more of this and less power probe in this world.
A/C DIY is very doable despite what you hear from many shops. And Kenny is correct -= vacuum pumps are available and pretty inexpensive at Harbor Freight.
I did my first automotive AC at 24. Harbor Freight saved the day. Instead of having to buy a fairly expensive vacuum pump to pull vacuum on the system Harbor Freight had a vacuum device that used your air compressor. I think it was less than $20.
@@robertwest3093 Change the oil in that pump after you use it. You'll be 80yo and still using it.
I always learn so much by watching your channel!
Thank you!
Good morning Mr Kenny hope y'all have a wonderful day
Good repair thank you
Just discovered your channel I think it’s brilliant.
I usually use AC solvent and nitrogen gas to clean the system before installing a new compressor regardless of whether the compressor failed mechanically or not. There could be some contaminants in the system that could damage the new compressor.
I have been in a situation where I needed a new clutch but could not buy one only a compressor. I bought the new compressor swapped clutches, put the old clutch on the new compressor and returned it for the core. Just saying saves a lot of work ...
Sometimes you can pull a shim out of the clutch and they will start working again.
3:00, super valuable life lesson. We have all been there. Yeesh, no thank you.
good camera work Kenny .
Good video love watching ❤
Complete clutch kits, if available, are nearly the same cost as a brand new OEM complete compressors based on my experience.
Factor in most cases, the compressor has to be removed to replace just the clutch it's a no-brainer, IMO.
Replace the Orifice if equipped and receiver drier and you now have a solid AC System for many many trouble free miles.
And yes, oil balance is key!
Plus that has a variable displacement solenoid on those. Those are known to go bad and are usually not obtainable alone.
I wouldn't ever replace just a clutch unless I could absolutely verify the coil is good, otherwise it's a unnecessary cost. Just because a clutch doesn't activate doesn't mean a clutch is shot... there's other reasons to consider.
@@garyr7027 Aftermarket, an ac compressor clutch kit comes with the pulley/plate and coil.
It depends on the situation, BUT I would prefer to keep an original compressor on a car if its still functional/not leaking and not super old. You never know what kind of compressor the replacement is.
@@mph5896 well I totally agree with keeping with the original ac pump. Like you said, with aftermarket pumps odds are it's not as good as the original, then there's the flushing job that should infact be done including replacing dryer/receiver too. However, as far as a replacement clutch, from my experience online or offline, to get a clutch, and or a coil it depends on the vehicle. I've discovered with some vehicles, and don't ask me why cause I have no clue, not all replacement parts are available, and if they are, they're not always sold together, but sold separately... this is just marketing fact. It depends on the vehicle and the parts, and sometimes where you buy the parts, but not always.
My Montero sport is cooling but not enough. The evaporator coil was dirty I added freon also cleaned the condenser coil. Really just getting hot enough to try.
If the clutch field coil fails close inspection of the field coil surface should show a small depression in the epoxy, less than 1/4" in diameter. Pick that out to expose a fusible link. You can solder the ends of the wire back together and make it work again. I always add 60 ml of new compressor oil to older compressors when recharging the system.
Thank You Kenny for the great information. After my 2001 F150 AC wasn’t putting out cold air, I tried the auto parts Freon recharge kit. It was a little better but not good. I went to Harbor Freight and picked up the gauge set and a vacuum pump from them. I vacuumed it down and it held a a good vacuum for an hour. I didn’t have a scale but my system holds 36 ounces (3 cans of 12oz. R-134 Freon) I also put the dye in there. Ice cold after that. Lasted about 6 months and started getting warm again. Got the UV light, and I see a leak at the compressor front. That will be next. By the way, I have 305,000 miles on this truck, so I feel blessed that the compressor made it this long…
Love going “The Kenny University”
Much Love and Hugs
HF sells an electronic digital postal scale that will hold a 30lb pig of freon
Please do a video on flushing the AC system !!!
I'm surprised you didn't change out the expansion valve and accumulator/ drier also.
They require a specific amount of PAG oil.
He would have only changed the clutch if it was available separately.
Why replace an expansion valve if it doesn't need it? A simple test of the gauges will verify if the expansion valve is good or not. Replace dryer?... yes absolutely, otherwise pump warranty is void, and that's with anyone you buy a pump from... they all have that same warranty.
Kenny.. did you ever check the clutch clearance... if its too great it won't close....remember they have shim washers to set that clearance
I have to always remember "don't go Banaaana's" haha lol
😂😂😂😂 I gotta talk Meg into making some shirts with "ya don't have to go Bananas" on it 🍌🍌🍌
I do a lot of farm stuff and you get dust and mud dobbers nust so the high and low pressure also tells me if the evaporater or condenser needs cleaning
I gotta check my 03 town car , it’s a bit low.. been 6 years since I last worked on its A/C .. gets cold , but compressor isn running long enough.. gotta have my A/C the car is black.
A new compressor is the way to go. The clutch went out on my wife's Nissan Murano and none of the auto parts stores sold just the clutch assembly. Trying to save a few bucks, I ordered a clutch from an online company that deals in compressors and parts. After installing the clutch the belt would not stay on the pulleys. After starting the car the belt would run one groove off the pulleys. I took the new compressor pulley off and installed the old one, and everything was fine. More Chinese junk. Lesson learned. Enjoyed the video.
Wish you were out here south of Tucson Az, your quality work, honest business is lacking in these parts. And if you find someone, their prices are off the roof, I understand what work is involved, but some guys surpass the dealers prices. Hmmm
20 minutes kenny!! Awesome job. Those under 4 or 5 minutes I don't bother watching. Keep it up big boy
Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
You always replace accumulator or receiver drier when installing a new compressor.
Exactly, because of you don't it will automatically void the pump warranty.
Nicely done Kenny! I love A/c jobs, I loved doing ac stuff @ the last shop job I had cuz they had Nice Robinair machine and boyyyyyy I recovered and saved SO much refrigerant over the course of a year that we didn’t have to buy any! lol most of the cars that came in for ac work, people had already tried servicing them and they came in way over charged, so I’d pull it all out, vac the system, do the repair and vacuume the system and correctly charged it and we just kept the extra lol but over time that extra adds up!
Only issue is that you will eventually end up with a recovery machine full of air, and then need to freeze the tank to almost all liquid, then discharge the gas out. Even residential units I often would recover the gas, made a manifold and used old fridge freezer compressors to do the scavenge, which meant I could get 90% of the charge out before changing the compressor. Did put a big drier in the suction and discharge lines, to handle the moisture and stuff that could be in there from the compressor failing, and those would eventually land up with the scrap units.
Supplier hated that I had good enough records to be able to claim compressors under the 5 year warranty, though often I would have had to replace a condenser coil at 3 years, because those turned into confetti and rust, especially on the window wall units. I was about the only customer who bought coils, other than those machines that failed within the 1 year full warranty. Capacitors were pretty much an annual replacement item, you might get 2 years out of them, even the OEM ones, and new compressors always got a new capacitor, and for some of the larger units also a hard start kit as well, especially those that were oversize for the load, and thus ran short cycles.
Bought 3 sets of gauges, original cheap one, then one that did R134A as well as R22, then the last one because I needed R410A capability. Note as well that those hose sets do eventually wear out, and they start to leak through the rubber, and get stiff and brittle. Vacuum pump better to spring for the dual stage units, they get better vacuum, and are almost good enough to make neon signs with, or at least use as a roughing pump for them. Change the oil regularly, all too often see pumps with either chocolate milkshake in the inspection port, or solid black sludge there. Refrigerant mineral oil is good enough, and cheap as well, and a 5l ( around 1.3 US gallons) bottle of it lasted around 20 oil changes.
You will end up with a mixture of different refrigerants
Yeah, our machine would automatically cycle and separate the oil, refrigerant and purge the air after recovering from 3-4 cars. The refrigerant we would recover from the cars was kept in a separate reservoir from the main jug of R134A that we would charge from if we had no refrigerant in the recovery/recycle tank.
@@Bimmerguy88 you never really know what you are recovering though, somebody may have added the wrong refrigerant etc, also some contamination from burnouts, moisture etc
Connection is called Manifold, like you said.
3:34 Actually, your explanation is not what those instructions said. In your example, according to those instructions, if you pulled 2 ounces out total between the old compressor and the recovery process then you'd subtract 1.4 ounces (shipped in the new compressor) from the 2.0 ounces you removed and add the difference. So, you'd want to add 0.6 ounces of oil to the new compressor, for a total of 2.0 ounces in the compressor. You wouldn't need to add any more during recharging since you already added it to the compressor. If you drained less than 1.4 ounces from the compressor and recovery then you'd install the compressor as is with 1.4 ounces.
The oil will travel in the system with the refrigerant, so there could be some in the reciever, conenser etc
@@kellismith4329 Of course. There is a spec for the whole system. The idea is to replace what you remove since you can't really determine what is still left in the system. I was just pointing out that in the example you wouldn't add an additional 2.0 ounces to the 1.4 ounces already in the new compressor. In my experience there is very little oil comes out of the compressors. It's usually everywhere else in the system. In most cases, I'll get about 0.25 ounces during recovery and maybe another 0.50 ounce out of the compressor. You do have to check for drain plugs on the compressors, too, in order to get it all out sometimes.
Harbor freight gauges don’t last. Their valves leak. That has been my experience. Also, read reviews!
If you DIY this and want to follow the law, have a recovery machine (~$400) and recovery cylinder dedicated to either R134a or R1234yf. Or have a shop evacuate to 0psig. I was using 12oz cans and figured my digital scale for 30lb cylinders would be inaccurate, so I used my handy 16oz digital postal scale (cheap). Example you need to put in 32oz. That's two 12oz cans plus a partial. Weigh 3 cans before you use them (15.4oz, 15.5oz, 15.6oz). Put in 2 full cans. Weigh the two empty cans (3.3oz, 3.3oz) subtract from full weight. So you put in 12.1oz and 12.2 oz. Now you need 7.7oz to make 32oz. So the last can final weight should be 15.6oz - 7.7oz = 7.9oz. The new self sealing cans are awesome! Paired with the Pittsburg/Harbor Freight manifold Kenny uses (a lot of us use those, good reviews), the thumb lock fittings when you turn so the plunger is up will keep pressure. So you can remove the can from the manifold hose to weigh it more accurately than with the hose attached. Then screw back in if you need more refrigerant. Pretty safe in most cases to add 1oz to the 32oz for leakage during future testing, plus a tad of gas refrigerant will still be in your lines and can when you remove it from the vehicle. These Pittsburg manifolds have that 2nd center port with a schrader valve so you can vacuum the manifold before attaching anything, so you don't have to air purge them once you open up a can of refrigerant.
0 psig is not a vacuum. That's 1 atm absolute.
@@salsuginusrex5196 you typically don't evacuate to a vacuum with a leak, you pull to 0psig(equalized to atmospheric). It's EPA acceptable. If there's no leak then you can evacuate to -5psig or so.
Per EPA. evacuate 90%. "Evacuate leaking components to the lowest level that can be attained without substantially contaminating the refrigerant. This level cannot exceed 0 pounds per square inch (psig)."
It'll probably be a question if you ever test for the 608
@@BearHomeOwnerDIY I took the test for 609 but that was 15 years ago and haven't done much with it since. If you replace a component, opening the system, is it not SOP to draw to a vacuum to remove any chance that air/moisture entered the system?
@@salsuginusrex5196 Yep you got it. I was commenting on different parts of the video.
Evacuation with a recovery machine is to 0psig if there's a chance of leak, or -5psig or so if no leak to recover more refrigerant. You don't want to recover with a vacuum pump for 1) can't connect a recovery cylinder 2) don't want a geyser of pump oil spraying out when you connect a vacuum pump to a charged system.
Vacuum testing for a leak and removal of non-condensables and moisture is done with a vacuum pump, not a recovery machine.
These are two different processes.
When vacuuming a system, should be using a micron gauge, not manifold gauge with analog gauges since you can't get good numbers of what vacuum you are at since the vacuum scale on a manifold gauge is very small. Can't tell 26 from 29 inches of mercury. Now with my testo 550, a digital manifold, it will tell me vacuum accurately to 29.92, but still a manifold can be leaky with a vacuum (they are best with holding pressure) so best to use a vacuum pump connected directly to service port and micron gauge to another port.
One thing to note, when flushing a AC system from a failed compressor it's not recommended to flush parallel condensers, they really should be replaced because it's not possible to get all the junk out of it, that junk/compressor trash, will ruin a new compressor. Serpentine condensers on the other hand can be properly flushed with zero issues... and always replace the accumulator/receiver/dryer... those also collect trash.
There look better than stock I think do they look like yours? Harvey duty i think! Look and see if right.
Oregon citing saw and mower stuff is goof stuff
Where do we send stuff to you at?
I see that compressor has an electronic compensating valve. Does that compressor run continuously?
Junk in the condenser from the compsser
Off topic but ...i needed a rear end. Vin number says its a 3.55:1 ratio but it had a 3.92:1.
So what do you do?
Its a 4x4 so check the front differential and match it.
My truck was in a collision 13 years ago and they put the wrong rear end in it and i drove it not knowing.
Holy crap
That fitting is not what I would consider a manifold. A manifold should allow switching flow from one pipe to the other either through a manual valve or solenoid. That’s why your gauges are a manifold. You can close off or open valves to control the flow through the lines.
Yes, but no. Kenny is correct, it is a manifold. In mechanics , a manifold is simply a collector of lines , like an exhaust manifold for example. Your gauges are the same thing but are equipped with valves so you can redirect flow. I’m no expert by any stretch of the imagination, but I’ve pulled wrenches for over 41 years. I wish I knew half of what Kenny already forgot. Enjoy his videos.
@@hawkenman.549 You’re using an exhaust manifold as an example is not a good one. An exhaust manifold combines the flow from multiple flows into one. The fitting in the video keeps the flow of both lines separate. It is a fitting, not a manifold.
Manifold definition:
Noun:
“a pipe or chamber branching into several openings.”
@@jcnikoley Inlet manifolds now also often also incorporate coolant flow through them to the head, so they do not mix the different components, till the plastic fails.
Thanks for the heads up. No GMs for me
Spinny camera like a romance movie. You must love changing AC compressors.
Got a 2011 forte. Something is making a grinding noise on accel. Either the compressor or the alternator! Both are original to the car from factory.
Ye old geezer put a screwdriver up to your ear while it's running to find the bad alt or comp
Well, remove the alternator, and spin it outside the car. If it is noisy replace, and if it is not then AC compresor will be noisy. But first check engine mounts, because after 12 years they likely are well worn and have torn rubber. Note, but the alternator from Kia, or from a good reconditioner, as it is controlled by the ECU to regulate charge. 12 years it will have shot bearings front and back, and worn brushes.
@@SeanBZA I already know the mounts need replacing. But I’m thinking it’s the alternator
@@SeanBZA got a denso branded alternator which is supposedly what the factory uses.
@@YeOldeGeezer Yes it is Denso, and at this age, and likely mileage, well worth changing now. Just has to be the right Denso.
What is the electric connection if not for the clutch.
high pressure cut-off switch. It breaks the HVAC request signal between the climate controls and the VCM or PCM or between the PCM to VCM depending on vehicle. If you have a sensor just after the condenser, if you have controls set to AC and fresh air, it activates air recirculation if the pressure gets high but not yet high enough to trigger the HP cutoff switch in and attempt to reduce the load and get pressure back down.
What is everything else ?
Could the gap be too much for the clutch to engage?
If something in the compressor is damaged yes, you can visually see the clutch pull back when energized
Or it's just stuck on the pump shaft. I've seen clutches get stuck before, where the clutch splines get rusty preventing the clutch from activating. A simple removal and cleaning did the job.
Kenny I'm confused. You said to tip the bottle of 134-a upside down while charging the a/c system. If the can is upside down I heard it came out liquid, like for home freezers, and if the can is upright it comes out gas, like for car a/c, home a/c units ect. Can you further elaborate the difference. Thank you..........Pete
You always liquid charge r134 as it is a mix of different substances, if you charge by vapor you are only taking the lightes substance first, by the time you get to the end of the bottle, the refrigerant will be much less effective
@@kellismith4329 you have to keep in mind, forcing a system to take freon at a fast rate is very hard on the pumps. Once the system is in a vacuum state then the initial charge is quick, from there the pump itself will draw at the rate it needs. It's slower yes, but easy on the pump.
@@garyr7027 no I would not rush charging it, put it in a deep vacuum and then recharge into the high side but with the bottle upside down so it dispenses as a liquid; then close the access valve at the high side connection - once the pressure has balanced out the start the compressor and slowly bleed out the liquid still in the guageset. If you charge from the bottle upright you remove gas from the cylinder so it comes out as “layers” of vapor so the first few systems you fill will get the lightest gas in most abundance so the refrigerant will behave differently than the systems you charge from the bottom layers in the cylinder and they may in fact not work efficiently. R134a is known as an aezeotrope consisting of 3 substances, each refrigerant has various characteristics
@@kellismith4329 that's pretty much how I've ever done it, let the vacuum do the job on both high and low side, then kick the pump on to finish it up. By then there's enough freon in the system the pump will kick on, with no problem.
@@kellismith4329 R410a is the mix you are thinking of, not R134a. R134a is a single component refrigerant.
Get caught released into the air. It's a 43 thousand dollar fine and goes up each time
Yup! $10,000 reward to the person who reports the violation. 😵 I don't want to be on either list. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
They do sale a additive that can take moisture out of the system, moisture remover , if you don’t have a pump , or don’t want to take the time to pump the system down , it is just a suggestion .
I wouldn't assume an AC system has 134a. Most cars come with yf, and its a lot more expensive. You can't use the same machine either, and I don't think an affordable solution is available from places like HF. Until prices come down, plan on using a dealership. Most independent shops haven't bought a yf machine yet.
yf?
@@dws2313 1234yf refrigerant.
@@dws2313 it's been out since about 2015 I think
Easy to identify it is written all over the components
Catalyst sticker has that information, I'm sure Kenny knows what it takes. Besides, everytime they change freon type, they also change the fittings, so you can't just accidentally charge 134a into a system that takes different type freon.
Air powered Venturi vacuum pump from Harbor Freight would well if you have a compressor that can keep up. I recently got a 5hp compressor that should do the job. ua-cam.com/video/h1Ippqg9YzE/v-deo.html
What is the customer pasta bunch of oil in it then you're not putting the right amount of oil are you
I wonder how many cars you've worked on are out there with issues because you didn't bolt things tight enough. I understand your point but come on, you are barely tightening these fasteners. Let's not even talk about what you do with oil filters. If those things didn't have good seals, they surely would leak how loose you make them.
You do too many little disclaimer like “ these gauges are like $40 but don’t quote me on that”. Stop it Mr. If the viewers are so mentally ill as to call you on it SCREW EM’. Keyboard mechanics that just look for something are in no position to judge your work.
There's no Freon in vehicles made after 1996 :D