Moe's giggle 😂 I love that you're always focused on the needs of the customer. Yes, the lines are available elsewhere, but the man needs to make a living! Your priorities are always in the right place. Great video as always.
Thank You for this Awesome video Kenny! All you said about the hydraulic lines sparked my USAF memories. I was the hydraulic line master, taught by the old timers who knew thier stuff. Everything you said was so true. We had an amazing machine in the sheet metal shop(I meant to say Structural Airframe Repair shop ha ha ha) That baby would do double flares that were immaculate! It had dies from 1/8” up to 2” for any type of metal …BUT… It would also crush them or make them to small if you didn’t know what you were doing during the setup process. Hardly anybody knew how to use it except the “old timers” and I always hung around them to find out the easy way to get jobs done, and they were glad to teach the young whipper snappers that gave them the respect they earned. I’m learning a lot by following You my brother from a different Mother, and Father! Thank You again for really caring about people.
One thing you did perfectly but didn't explain was making sure the loop doesn't have a high spot that will trap air. It must have at least a slight rise throughout its length. After it's all complete you can move it a bit, but for bleeding and leak check, it must be continuous uphill. Great job.
Excellent video, again (and again). I did not hear you mention what kind of metal ought to be used for brake line fabrication, I may have missed it. But, out of an abundance of caution I thought I would interject what not to use, as well s what to use.. Copper lines are easy to work with, but do not have the burst strength needed for a hydraulic brake system, so DO NOT use copper tubing for hydraulic brake systems, ever,. Hydraulic steel lines can handle the pressure of a hydraulic system, but sometimes making a double flare end for a connection to be made can be difficult., A better kind of line metal you can use for a hydraulic repair use is a Copper-Nickel alloy line that is strong enough to safely use for brakes, and any number of other uses (use proper bending and flaring tools). The color of the Copper-Nickel metal is close to the color of a copper line, and it can be easily bent or flared/double flared, for brake lines you want to do double flares) like copper, But its burst strength is much higher than just copper. It is what I like to use as it easy to work with, and commonly found in parts stores.
Hey Kenny. That flare tool does do a very good job. I have the exact same creature, and remaking the entire line system on my project car, had not one single failure. Good work. And yeah, no compression fittings, silly people think they work.
There's always at least one armchair know it all ingone them you have been at this game for a long time & you have the experience Cheers Mate from the land of 60,000 years of constant inhabitation Ausrtalia.
Hi Ken, I have done exactly that kind of repair so many times. Instead of using a mighty-vac I just leave the farthest fitting cracked loose and pump the brake until I get fluid coming out. Even on a line repair clear back at a rear wheel cylinder on a rear axle or at a caliper hose. I never mess with bleeders unless I replace the clapper or cyl. In my way I believe I have refilled the line from the master down to the fix and I have never had an issue. Bonus: One time I had a customer who needed to leave town asap and the only calipers I could find had the bleeders on the bottom. I can't remember what it was on, some kind of small Ford car, but all I did was put a piece of 1x2 board between the piston and the other side, then turned the caliper down side up and blead the air all out and put it on the car. The guy knew what I was doing and agreed to get it done right when he got to California, but he called me and told me he didn't see the need until the next brake job since it worked perfectly for 2,490 miles. I concurred. ben/ michigan
Double End flares are paramount for hydraulic brake systems, or any other high-pressure hydraulic system, when making a mechanical connection. Thank you Kenny for your expert commentary as a 30+ year mechanic, I find it very comforting to listen to your diagnostics and watch you work. Tim C Las Vegas, Nevada . 🙏🙏👍👍👍
@@shaunmapes7441It's not regular copper tubing, it's a nickle/copper alloy. Ni-Cop is what this kind of tubing is commonly called. Regular copper tube is WAY too soft for any kind of hydraulic application. The Ni-Cop tube is much easier to work with than standard steel line.
Isnt ‘Brake’ light usually tied to fluid level switch or proportional valve switch. The Abs light is controlled by the module. Just wondering, didn’t catch the year of the van. Agree using Nicop loop. Great fix. Nice flare tool.
The ABS module on certain vehicles can control both the ABS & the brake light on the dash. I'm actually not sure about this one. This one did not have a level sensor. Afterwards, the customer stated that the brake light has been on for a "long time." Thanks for watching
I've had the Lisle 56150 flare tool for years. It makes single, double and ISO (bubble) flares. Apparently, the part # is obsolete now but mine still works great! Also, after years of using regular steel brake line, the Ni-Cop line is a God send!
A great teaching video. You explained everything so well. If you had disconnected the battery when done and connected positive with negative for a few minutes, shouldn't that reset the brake light and remove the lighted brake light? Kenny, you have amazing patience to help your customer as best you can!
i hate brake lines so much i decided years ago to work on trucks instead of cars. last year i had to do a line on my f-150 i bought a similar tool and some nicop line. omfg it was so easy to work with. i might have even stayed with cars years ago if it had been that easy!! worth every penny.
Good 'ol gm brake lines... we call those, "job security." Good show sir. Small tip you probably already know, a 13 mm socket makes for a perfect brake line spring/coil template. Closed end of 10mm wrench on line, rest wrench against socket, and rotate around. Hustle on good sir!
As others have mentioned Kenny, great job getting that fellow his work truck back so he can work. Sadly, many places would not give a crap and just order the "right" part. To me, if a part does the job and fits in there, then it IS the right part.
How do you know it will do the job? Personally I would rather have the right part and not leave a repair to the discretion of a mechanic who thinks he/she is also an engineer.
For those who don't know, nicopp has been used by manufacturers like Saab and Volvo for years because they found it was superior to steel, especially in areas where salt is used to treat roads.
I ran a lot of tubing in my life no matter if it is flare, Tubing or JIC we were always train how to tighten flare tubing turn it until it’s snug the Internet, a quarter inch and that will work all the time
Also make sure that the new flare nut threads into the fitting because you don't want to have to use a thread file to restore factory defective threads. Just a thought. Great video Kenny and wonderful service to your customers as always.
Kenny, I don’t know what kind of brake cleaner you use or at least used for your flammability demo. Commonly made with Tetrachloroethylene (TCE). The Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for a can of brake cleaner reads: “Do not use this product near open flames, welding operations, or excessive heat. Vapors may decompose to harmful or fatal corrosive gases such as hydrogen chloride and possibly phosgene.” It can cause permanent lung damage or even be a deadly situation.
Chlorinated brake cleaner in particular has the risk of producing phosgene if burned. It is very nasty stuff that you do not want to inhale if you don't want life-changing impact to your health. They warn about this a lot in terms of welding- don't use that stuff to clean panels prior to weld..
Yup I have done a number of coiled hard lines between the master cylinder and frame. Many thousands of miles driven. I did have one crack from vibration. Support the coils somehow. I like to zip tie them to things with a piece of fuel line inbetween so there's no metal to metal contact.
You should try a hydraulic flairing tool. Very easy to use and does so much more than brake flairing. The one we have at work even does push connect flairing.
I have a hydraulic flaring tool as well. I like to show this tool because it fits in tight spaces and ive found the flares on small lines (3/16 & 1/4) actually come out better. That hydraulic tool is awesome for fuel lines and such !!
I wouldn't recommend using copper lines anywhere on a vehicle. From vibration and/or cyclic stresses (like a brake line), the copper can cold work, become brittle, and crack. I always use steel lines. Paint the finished installation if you're concerned about corrosion.
Very good repair, Kenny. I have had the same situation, but used a suitable length rubber brakeline from the centre hose rear axle plus appropriate fittings.
In New York State, a vehicle with copper brake lines will not pass inspection. Please check regs to verify. I am retired ASE Master tech with over 30 years experience.😊
Love snaking that fuse box cover through all those lines when troubleshooting electrical problems on those vans. What was GM thinking? Love the videos, keep them coming.
Read the comments and it seems almost no one knows about nicop lines. Makes a person wonder if the commenter has ever worked on brake lines before, especially in upper US where rust is an issue. As you, I have ive seen some f'ed up repairs over the years. Some you have to laugh at because therwise you want to beat the tar outta whomever did the repair to put so many lives at stake. You did a quick quality repair to get that man back on the road, and make him and others safe out there. I call that a win.
I have seen several GM vehicles with metric fittings. I'd be willing to bet Ford & Chrysler have done the same , I just haven't experienced a failure yet
Who ever thought that using the metric system was a good idea ? Now we need 2 sets of tools, and never really know exactly what size of anything we a re looking for
Yeah "you can get the lines from a mail order place" and then the thing sits there for days waiting for some sketchy stuff to arrive...screw that, harvest the fittings if you can from the bad line(s), grab some bulk steel brake line and make them in minutes. You'll know the job has been done right and you get the customer back on the road promptly. Been that way in my shop for years, especially on trucks that rot out the line that goes to the rear axle...just make your own repair lines, we got the tools and fittings and it's easy as heck to do it. Edit and addition, compression fittings on brake lines is fairly illegal up here in Canada and in most places in the US as far as I know.
They use them alot on water line supply to refrigerators, dishwashers etc and they almost always leak and cause damage even with 50psi of water pressure, they are meant to be a bandaid until you can get the proper materials
I live in pa and while most garages and mechanics will tell you that compression are illegal they are not. The thing is if you put the compression on rusty line it's not going to hold. If it's good solid line they will hold just fine as long as they are rated for the pressure
Why would you put a compression fitting on a good solid line. Why not do the job the correct way for the customer? If you want to compromise your family safety. By all means you can. Go ahead and risk your kids or grandkids life in your hands Sir. When I was working. A crew member stood up at a safety meeting. He said. "I don't like ABS brakes at all. So deactivated my ABS brakes. So I just asked him. So you are risking your family safety because you don't like it? They are installed for your own and your family safety Sir. We are given safety items to wear. We don't have to pay for it either. Plus safety meetings are there for US to remind us each day.
That style of flare tool is SO MUCH better than the old school ones, as far as getting a uniform and centered flare every time. There are vice mount tools that are faster, but aren’t designed to be used with the line on the vehicle, or hydraulic units that are fast- but so expensive as to only make sense for someone who’s job is mostly building rigid lines. Does yours do the iso bubble flares?
Kenny hi enjoyed the video you do not have to explain yourself to anyone bottom line is you need your parts today and ford if avalable would not have them in stock anyway .
The flare fitting are in some instances a one time use - meaning that after disconnecting one, the flaring has to be redone after cutting the old flared part off (because it might not be springy afterwards - meaning the flared part has to be cut off and re-flared; hence, some people trying to use the crush fittings). Btw, where is the video part showing how to bend one of these lines? Special tools are needed for doing this.
That tubing cutter looks exactly like my Cal-Van Tools one. I'm sure it gets relabeled a ton for other brands but it's a pretty good cutter. Much sharper than the cheap one I was using before.
You should do a periodic video on comments that irritate you. Give context and what was said. Top ten list? 😂😂 Would be a fun educational moment for all the key board warriors.
Lots of great tips! Thanks so much! After reading some of the comments, yep, sometimes I cringe and feel your angst! Hang in there and, , , Tell Moe we said Hi!
Before i learned better i used regular flare and compression fittings and never had a problem and i see them come in the shop and working good. Now i would never use them anymore and if they come in the shop i fix them properly.
I get the feeling that he was originally going to do the whole repair in the vehicle and not disturb the master, then he changed his mind part way through and removed it to work on but was already mentally committed to a splice.
The brake light is on possibly for the parking brake pedal not all the way disengaged happenes a lot ppl climbing in knocking it a bit now its a couple clicks engaged but not enough to hold the vehicle still
I know I had went to get fittings for brake lines and the ones they were selling said right on the package not for use on braking systems they said they have been selling these for a while 😮
I'd consider that a temporary repair and I'd make sure the customer understands that it was done for the purpose of getting him back on the road until the proper factory flex line can be obtained. I'd probably put something that speaks to that on the repair order the customer signs as well just to CYA since we all know he won't be back until it fails again. For me personally, it's something I'd do on my own vehicle but would never do on any one else's vehicle, IMO there's just too much liability when it comes to brakes.
Compression fittings are for water in your house. Did I hear you say "copper line"? I hope not. And the line you flared looked to be steel. Cupronickel works, but copper on a brake line is a no no. It will fatigue and split.
Citroen 2cv’s ect had no flex lines they used the spirals you spoke of, but couldn’t you use an ordinary flex pipe or do all us cars and light commercials have banjo fittings and the wrong bore (I am from the Uk)
Everyone is a critic and you can’t make everyone happy I don’t think there really is a right and a wrong way especially when the parts aren’t available we do what we can to make the world go round
Instead of using a torch, did you ever think of emery/sand paper cloth? I've had hoses blow up heating the fittings. I like most of you're videos but I think it was a bad idea showing this.
I have seen horrifically overtightened double lap flares. People are amazing when they think that "tighter is better." Of course, your estimate is a "rip off" because you want to replace the parts that their overtightening damaged.
Moe's giggle 😂
I love that you're always focused on the needs of the customer. Yes, the lines are available elsewhere, but the man needs to make a living! Your priorities are always in the right place. Great video as always.
Thank you for your kind words. Moe does have a great laugh! Keep wrenching 🔧
I lost all respect for Scotty Kilmer when he said compression fittings are fine for brake lines a few years ago. Thanks for what you do Kenny!!
Kilmer is a goof, he still has a video up about how bad dielectric grease is because he thinks it conducts electricity. 😂
Thank You for this Awesome video Kenny! All you said about the hydraulic lines sparked my USAF memories. I was the hydraulic line master, taught by the old timers who knew thier stuff. Everything you said was so true. We had an amazing machine in the sheet metal shop(I meant to say Structural Airframe Repair shop ha ha ha) That baby would do double flares that were immaculate! It had dies from 1/8” up to 2” for any type of metal
…BUT…
It would also crush them or make them to small if you didn’t know what you were doing during the setup process. Hardly anybody knew how to use it except the “old timers” and I always hung around them to find out the easy way to get jobs done, and they were glad to teach the young whipper snappers that gave them the respect they earned.
I’m learning a lot by following You my brother from a different Mother, and Father!
Thank You again for really caring about people.
One thing you did perfectly but didn't explain was making sure the loop doesn't have a high spot that will trap air. It must have at least a slight rise throughout its length.
After it's all complete you can move it a bit, but for bleeding and leak check, it must be continuous uphill.
Great job.
Excellent video, again (and again). I did not hear you mention what kind of metal ought to be used for brake line fabrication, I may have missed it. But, out of an abundance of caution I thought I would interject what not to use, as well s what to use.. Copper lines are easy to work with, but do not have the burst strength needed for a hydraulic brake system, so DO NOT use copper tubing for hydraulic brake systems, ever,. Hydraulic steel lines can handle the pressure of a hydraulic system, but sometimes making a double flare end for a connection to be made can be difficult., A better kind of line metal you can use for a hydraulic repair use is a Copper-Nickel alloy line that is strong enough to safely use for brakes, and any number of other uses (use proper bending and flaring tools). The color of the Copper-Nickel metal is close to the color of a copper line, and it can be easily bent or flared/double flared, for brake lines you want to do double flares) like copper, But its burst strength is much higher than just copper. It is what I like to use as it easy to work with, and commonly found in parts stores.
Hey Kenny. That flare tool does do a very good job. I have the exact same creature, and remaking the entire line system on my project car, had not one single failure. Good work. And yeah, no compression fittings, silly people think they work.
There's always at least one armchair know it all ingone them you have been at this game for a long time & you have the experience Cheers Mate from the land of 60,000 years of constant inhabitation Ausrtalia.
Great trick to get the line size thx kenny
Bought a used van years ago, compression repair on one line. My dad said we gotta change that! We did he showed me how to flare line👍
Good catch Kenny
Good catch on the fact the brake cleaner you were using is highly flammable.
Not all brake cleaner is, so thanks for the reminder.
Hello Moe, keep up the good work Kenny
Great video Kenny.
Hi Ken, I have done exactly that kind of repair so many times. Instead of using a mighty-vac I just leave the farthest fitting cracked loose and pump the brake until I get fluid coming out. Even on a line repair clear back at a rear wheel cylinder on a rear axle or at a caliper hose. I never mess with bleeders unless I replace the clapper or cyl. In my way I believe I have refilled the line from the master down to the fix and I have never had an issue.
Bonus: One time I had a customer who needed to leave town asap and the only calipers I could find had the bleeders on the bottom. I can't remember what it was on, some kind of small Ford car, but all I did was put a piece of 1x2 board between the piston and the other side, then turned the caliper down side up and blead the air all out and put it on the car. The guy knew what I was doing and agreed to get it done right when he got to California, but he called me and told me he didn't see the need until the next brake job since it worked perfectly for 2,490 miles. I concurred. ben/ michigan
Some old motorcycles were set up this way, and just as you describe is the method the manufacturer's recommended.
Compression fittings are fine for pneumatic systems, but have no place in hydraulic systems, period? Great job, Kenny.
Moe makes my day better evertime i see him!
Ben having a Moe better day?
i always wondered why there was loops in brake lines...thanks for explaining that.
Hi. Just curious why copper instead of steel brake line which is available at most auto parts stores. .
Double End flares are paramount for hydraulic brake systems, or any other high-pressure hydraulic system, when making a mechanical connection.
Thank you Kenny for your expert commentary as a 30+ year mechanic, I find it very comforting to listen to your diagnostics and watch you work. Tim C
Las Vegas, Nevada .
🙏🙏👍👍👍
@@shaunmapes7441it is nickel/copper and acceptable for brake lines, very maliable and easy to work with
@@shaunmapes7441It's not regular copper tubing, it's a nickle/copper alloy. Ni-Cop is what this kind of tubing is commonly called. Regular copper tube is WAY too soft for any kind of hydraulic application. The Ni-Cop tube is much easier to work with than standard steel line.
Great info. Thanks@@MikeBrown-ii3pt
Now I know what the loops are for on older cars thanks
Isnt ‘Brake’ light usually tied to fluid level switch or proportional valve switch. The Abs light is controlled by the module. Just wondering, didn’t catch the year of the van. Agree using Nicop loop. Great fix. Nice flare tool.
The ABS module on certain vehicles can control both the ABS & the brake light on the dash. I'm actually not sure about this one. This one did not have a level sensor. Afterwards, the customer stated that the brake light has been on for a "long time." Thanks for watching
I've had the Lisle 56150 flare tool for years. It makes single, double and ISO (bubble) flares. Apparently, the part # is obsolete now but mine still works great!
Also, after years of using regular steel brake line, the Ni-Cop line is a God send!
A great teaching video. You explained everything so well. If you had disconnected the battery when done and connected positive with negative for a few minutes, shouldn't that reset the brake light and remove the lighted brake light? Kenny, you have amazing patience to help your customer as best you can!
Hi it's Mrs Wrenching! Kenny speaks about you often. Thank you so much for your interaction on WWK. We appreciate your wisdom & wit. Keep wrenching 🔧
Thanks for the video Kenny nicely done with the brake job 👍❤️❤️ it. Take care of yourself and family and be Blessed ❤️❤️.
i hate brake lines so much i decided years ago to work on trucks instead of cars. last year i had to do a line on my f-150 i bought a similar tool and some nicop line. omfg it was so easy to work with. i might have even stayed with cars years ago if it had been that easy!! worth every penny.
Good 'ol gm brake lines... we call those, "job security." Good show sir. Small tip you probably already know, a 13 mm socket makes for a perfect brake line spring/coil template. Closed end of 10mm wrench on line, rest wrench against socket, and rotate around. Hustle on good sir!
As others have mentioned Kenny, great job getting that fellow his work truck back so he can work. Sadly, many places would not give a crap and just order the "right" part. To me, if a part does the job and fits in there, then it IS the right part.
My sentiment exactly! Thank you for watching & piping up. Keep wrenching 🔧
How do you know it will do the job? Personally I would rather have the right part and not leave a repair to the discretion of a mechanic who thinks he/she is also an engineer.
That flare tool is a must have our shop made hundred's with one
For those who don't know, nicopp has been used by manufacturers like Saab and Volvo for years because they found it was superior to steel, especially in areas where salt is used to treat roads.
Great job Mr Kenny hope y'all have a wonderful day
Thanks! You too
I ran a lot of tubing in my life no matter if it is flare, Tubing or JIC we were always train how to tighten flare tubing turn it until it’s snug the Internet, a quarter inch and that will work all the time
It's not something I would want to teach in a video. It is really a technique you learn by doing. Thank you for your input! Keep wrenching 🔧
Also make sure that the new flare nut threads into the fitting because you don't want to have to use a thread file to restore factory defective threads. Just a thought. Great video Kenny and wonderful service to your customers as always.
We would wrap the NiCopp brake line around a soup can a few times to replicate the factory expanding coil.
I used to use an aerosol can. I completely forgot until you mentioned the soup can. Thanks for the reminder. Keep wrenching 🔧
I love this old school stuff. We’ll fix it no problem
moes a movie star now...lol
😎
Kenny,
I don’t know what kind of brake cleaner you use or at least used for your flammability demo. Commonly made with Tetrachloroethylene (TCE).
The Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for a can of brake cleaner reads: “Do not use this product near open flames, welding operations, or excessive heat. Vapors may decompose to harmful or fatal corrosive gases such as hydrogen chloride and possibly phosgene.”
It can cause permanent lung damage or even be a deadly situation.
Chlorinated brake cleaner in particular has the risk of producing phosgene if burned. It is very nasty stuff that you do not want to inhale if you don't want life-changing impact to your health. They warn about this a lot in terms of welding- don't use that stuff to clean panels prior to weld..
Sir...thank you for reminding us DYI mechanics.
Kenny! You know exactly what to do! bravo!!
Great video and Hi Moe..
That's the best weld I've ever saw. ;)
Nice video. Actually over 30 minutes. I swear I'm averaging 6 hours of UA-cam a day
We have a couple of hydraulic shops that make brake hases and the sort. I've had them replace the flex part of the hose in assemblies like that.
hoses* not hases lol
Same here. It's about 1/4 mile from my shade tree. Any size and any length and any colors
Yup I have done a number of coiled hard lines between the master cylinder and frame. Many thousands of miles driven. I did have one crack from vibration. Support the coils somehow. I like to zip tie them to things with a piece of fuel line inbetween so there's no metal to metal contact.
GREAT work Kenny!!
You should try a hydraulic flairing tool. Very easy to use and does so much more than brake flairing. The one we have at work even does push connect flairing.
I have a hydraulic flaring tool as well. I like to show this tool because it fits in tight spaces and ive found the flares on small lines (3/16 & 1/4) actually come out better. That hydraulic tool is awesome for fuel lines and such !!
Great video Kenny and wonderful service to your customer. Thanks for sharing.
Great video
Nice work
I wouldn't recommend using copper lines anywhere on a vehicle. From vibration and/or cyclic stresses (like a brake line), the copper can cold work, become brittle, and crack. I always use steel lines. Paint the finished installation if you're concerned about corrosion.
Very good repair, Kenny. I have had the same situation, but used a suitable length rubber brakeline from the centre hose rear axle plus appropriate fittings.
You can order any part overnight from the dealer if not obsolete. That line has too much movement and the vibration can cause problems.
Or a Pull A Part store nearby 😁
In New York State, a vehicle with copper brake lines will not pass inspection. Please check regs to verify. I am retired ASE Master tech with over 30 years experience.😊
Good catch and yes I believe it's a foul anywhere like compression fittings. NHTSA regs I believe.
He stated in the comments it was copper colored steel lines.
@@bradmarcum2927 thanks for correction 👍
And like Eric O from SMA points out, passing inspection in many places in New York is done by taping a hunnert to the steering wheel. 😊
I like the cap you made to pull vacuum on the system. Tried that on power steering reservoirs never thought to try on master cylinders.
you will be fine with the nicop i always scrape the plastic off with a utility knife hey i have the same kit for a year now i like it its a go to
Love snaking that fuse box cover through all those lines when troubleshooting electrical problems on those vans. What was GM thinking? Love the videos, keep them coming.
Read the comments and it seems almost no one knows about nicop lines. Makes a person wonder if the commenter has ever worked on brake lines before, especially in upper US where rust is an issue. As you, I have ive seen some f'ed up repairs over the years. Some you have to laugh at because therwise you want to beat the tar outta whomever did the repair to put so many lives at stake. You did a quick quality repair to get that man back on the road, and make him and others safe out there. I call that a win.
Thank you for your comment. I appreciate your input. Keep wrenching 🔧
It's interesting to see that even though most vehicles today are entirely metric, for brake lines they retained SAE fitting sizes. I wonder why.
I have seen several GM vehicles with metric fittings. I'd be willing to bet Ford & Chrysler have done the same , I just haven't experienced a failure yet
Who ever thought that using the metric system was a good idea ? Now we need 2 sets of tools, and never really know exactly what size of anything we a re looking for
At 8.08 you twisted the hose around, i would say that is the way its meant to be.
Yeah "you can get the lines from a mail order place" and then the thing sits there for days waiting for some sketchy stuff to arrive...screw that, harvest the fittings if you can from the bad line(s), grab some bulk steel brake line and make them in minutes. You'll know the job has been done right and you get the customer back on the road promptly. Been that way in my shop for years, especially on trucks that rot out the line that goes to the rear axle...just make your own repair lines, we got the tools and fittings and it's easy as heck to do it.
Edit and addition, compression fittings on brake lines is fairly illegal up here in Canada and in most places in the US as far as I know.
Thank you for your insight! Keep wrenching 🔧
They use them alot on water line supply to refrigerators, dishwashers etc and they almost always leak and cause damage even with 50psi of water pressure, they are meant to be a bandaid until you can get the proper materials
I live in pa and while most garages and mechanics will tell you that compression are illegal they are not. The thing is if you put the compression on rusty line it's not going to hold. If it's good solid line they will hold just fine as long as they are rated for the pressure
Why would you put a compression fitting on a good solid line. Why not do the job the correct way for the customer?
If you want to compromise your family safety. By all means you can. Go ahead and risk your kids or grandkids life in your hands Sir.
When I was working. A crew member stood up at a safety meeting. He said. "I don't like ABS brakes at all. So deactivated my ABS brakes.
So I just asked him. So you are risking your family safety because you don't like it?
They are installed for your own and your family safety Sir.
We are given safety items to wear. We don't have to pay for it either. Plus safety meetings are there for US to remind us each day.
God what a Rube Goldberg you created
That style of flare tool is SO MUCH better than the old school ones, as far as getting a uniform and centered flare every time. There are vice mount tools that are faster, but aren’t designed to be used with the line on the vehicle, or hydraulic units that are fast- but so expensive as to only make sense for someone who’s job is mostly building rigid lines.
Does yours do the iso bubble flares?
No, it only does the double flare that's shown in the video. Keep wrenching 🔧
Kenny hi enjoyed the video you do not have to explain yourself to anyone bottom line is you need your parts today and ford if avalable would not have them in stock anyway .
I have the same tool using an impact could be a game changer
Excellent video Ken. I actually learned a thing or two.
The flare fitting are in some instances a one time use - meaning that after disconnecting one, the flaring has to be redone after cutting the old flared part off (because it might not be springy afterwards - meaning the flared part has to be cut off and re-flared; hence, some people trying to use the crush fittings). Btw, where is the video part showing how to bend one of these lines? Special tools are needed for doing this.
Thanks for the suggestion. I will make a video. Keep wrenching 🔧
That tubing cutter looks exactly like my Cal-Van Tools one. I'm sure it gets relabeled a ton for other brands but it's a pretty good cutter. Much sharper than the cheap one I was using before.
Much like my kobalt and craftsman 1 also
I was always tough NEVER to use a union in brake line.
You should do a periodic video on comments that irritate you. Give context and what was said. Top ten list? 😂😂 Would be a fun educational moment for all the key board warriors.
Lots of great tips! Thanks so much! After reading some of the comments, yep, sometimes I cringe and feel your angst!
Hang in there and, , , Tell Moe we said Hi!
I have the master-cool and the lisle flaring tools. Both of them work great.
Before i learned better i used regular flare and compression fittings and never had a problem and i see them come in the shop and working good. Now i would never use them anymore and if they come in the shop i fix them properly.
Excellent! Keep wrenching & taking good care of your customers 🔧
Can you explain why you didn't go all the way to the master with the new line? 🤔 You explain everything in an Awesome way, keep doing that. 👍
$$$$
I get the feeling that he was originally going to do the whole repair in the vehicle and not disturb the master, then he changed his mind part way through and removed it to work on but was already mentally committed to a splice.
Is there any rule of thumb on how big loop should be? Just wondering if I do a line like yours in a pinch. Great job as always.
Thanks
My rules..2 loops is good
The brake light is on possibly for the parking brake pedal not all the way disengaged happenes a lot ppl climbing in knocking it a bit now its a couple clicks engaged but not enough to hold the vehicle still
I know I had went to get fittings for brake lines and the ones they were selling said right on the package not for use on braking systems they said they have been selling these for a while 😮
I'd consider that a temporary repair and I'd make sure the customer understands that it was done for the purpose of getting him back on the road until the proper factory flex line can be obtained. I'd probably put something that speaks to that on the repair order the customer signs as well just to CYA since we all know he won't be back until it fails again. For me personally, it's something I'd do on my own vehicle but would never do on any one else's vehicle, IMO there's just too much liability when it comes to brakes.
I doubt those flex lines were factory
Compression fittings are for water in your house. Did I hear you say "copper line"? I hope not. And the line you flared looked to be steel. Cupronickel works, but copper on a brake line is a no no. It will fatigue and split.
I misspoke its metal brake line that's copper colored
@@WrenchingWithKenny Copper flashing on a steel line is good, can help slow corrosion.
In this case it's probably nicopp, which is a solid nickel/copper alloy and is DOT approved for brake lines. Great stuff, easy to bend, doesn't rust.
@@joshonthetube Yep, good stuff, easier to work with than steel.
Citroen 2cv’s ect had no flex lines they used the spirals you spoke of, but couldn’t you use an ordinary flex pipe or do all us cars and light commercials have banjo fittings and the wrong bore (I am from the Uk)
Just do your job I get to know a lot from you 👌💯
I am wondering if the replacement piece should have been steel instead of copper.
Possible park break lite. Adjustment works? Not sure. Learned about a vacuum pump air release thanks
Why not use a vernier gauge to measure brake pipe diameter.
Everyone is a critic and you can’t make everyone happy I don’t think there really is a right and a wrong way especially when the parts aren’t available we do what we can to make the world go round
Was it Scotty? It sounds like Scotty... Lol
😂😂😂
Nobody else I see asked so I will. Why did you use such a long new coiled line?
You see some lines looped from the factory.
you arent overheating nothing, turn it up, kenney the temp probe.
Rather than risk fire or heat the fluid up I just scrape it with a razor blade
In the past i have had the flareds crack
Instead of using a torch, did you ever think of emery/sand paper cloth? I've had hoses blow up heating the fittings. I like most of you're videos but I think it was a bad idea showing this.
I have seen horrifically overtightened double lap flares. People are amazing when they think that "tighter is better." Of course, your estimate is a "rip off" because you want to replace the parts that their overtightening damaged.
There is a coin stuck in the seatblelt receiver and that’s why it won’t buckle
I like Moe!
uk test, you are allowed one union per line
I think Moe laughed because he isn't doing that job!
Not copper line, copper/nickle or cupro nickle. Someone might get confused.
Where are you located? I have 5.3 for 3yrs and can’t figure out how to fix
veneer caliper
Hello
Hi 👋
Can I tell the shop owner to buy the hydraulic one I haven't love it I can do that line in under 30 seconds
Instead of 2 unions.... i would have just remade the line from the master down to the original line.... using just one union..
Mr Kenny what is your shop address sir ?