Painting Graffiti on Model Trains - Gondola Project
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
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While graffiti isn’t everyone’s thing, Austin commissioned me to plaster one side of an N-Scale gondola with one enormous “piece.” This video is an in-depth exploration of how I hand-painted and lightly weather a railcar, especially in trying to replicate a prototype picture. There are a lot of tips in this one whether you like having graffiti on your layout or not.
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Music: "Engine No. 9" by Les Hooper
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Keywords:
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The inside end numbering is an excellent tip to keep in mind for the future.
I only despise graffiti on older, fallen flag rolling stock and anywhere else. The newer prototype rolling is soooo boring, graffiti brings interest. You have taught me a lot about weathering and painting. Thanks JC!
My wife and I just watched this together. Now she wants all my cars to look like that. She asked if you were an artist or a modeller. I said both. Great work.
Thanks! Modelling is an art form, really. My primary focus is painting, with some model-building thrown in for good measure. :)
Hi, I model the transition period. So no real graffiti back then. But, maybe I will research that. I do, however, admire and appreciate your skills. Thanks. See ya.
Hi Norman, transition period graffiti was there, but it looked very different from the style that developed in the late 60's and early 70's. There was a museum exhibit in Massilon, Ohio a few years back that looked at the pre-1960s graffiti. Called "Moniker: Identity Lost and Found". There's even an instagram collection where you can see some examples of what would be in your era. instagram.com/moniker_identity/
It's a different look, to be sure, and were usually done in chalk, some sort of industrial crayon, or paint stick. The most famous of this kind of thing emerged in the second world war with "Kilroy was Here" --which did find its way onto railcars when the soldiers came home. So the option is there, but it won't be the kind of stuff I did in this video. :)
Great video. As far as leaving the recording marks visible, a graffiti writer friend told me years ago that a railroad employee told them the the railroad wouldn’t care as much as long as the recording marks didn’t get painted over since they are necessary for safety reasons. And it’s become pretty common since, at least on CSX which is the line he painted on. If the writers leave the marks alone, their pieces stay up on the cars much longer.
That's true. I have to confess that I quietly checked out a few "how-to-do-Graffiti" websites out there, and they fess up that it's straight-up illegal, but if a writer wants their work to stay on stuff, mask off or avoid painting on the reporting marks, and they may last longer.
You mean their destruction of property lasts longer. Pathetic.
@@poopjeans1135 Or you could look at it as them giving it a fresh paint job at their own expense. 🤷🏻♂️ Paint is paint, they just used more than one color.
@JC'sRiptrack i hand paint my graffiti
Wow that was amazing. Great reproduction on that car.
Thanks Steve! It was fun to do. :)
Holy cow man, youre amazing. That gondola looks great. I would never even thing of doing that in Ho scale, let alone N scale.
It was fun to do, but I really had to keep the prototype photo nearby!
John this came out great. I liked it a lot, and I'll be using this some time soon on some apocalyptic wargames scenery that needs some cyberpunk style graffiti. Technique looted. Jobs a gud un.
Thanks Hakbash, trying to keep things proppa. ;)
So, what did Austin have to say about the job?
He seemed to be pretty happy with it. :)
Man you are good. I’ve used Micron pens for tags with good results. And some decals. Might try hand-painting some day, wish I had better skills
It takes practice but is do-able. A real help is using physical markers on the model itself, like the ribs, to create a reference grid on the model for working up the shape of the graffiti.
Graffiti artist will choose not to paint over rail ID markings. So the rail co.'s ignore the graffiti until repaint. Which could be a year from the time the art was applied.
You are brave my friend! You may want to try Liquitex Artist Inks for graffiti next time, less chance of visible brush marks. Just my two cents, not that we use pennies anymore!
Duly noted. I've been wondering about the Liquitex inks and how opaque they are. You can upgrade your fees to a nickel anyway :)
Lol lm a retired plastering contractor. I used to get my plastering material by the semi truck load.
Ha! Well, as you may have guessed, I was using it more as a slang term. :) Mind you, that would be good for layout building.
JC's Riptrack I’m from Los Angels and I dislike graffiti so much I don’t care if its Proto typical or not. I won’t put it on my layout. Looks fine on others stuff. I’m just not mine.
I could never do graffiti myself but having grown up in the 80s and 90s I had friends that were real big in it. Now since retired graffiti artists are always up for breaking out their skill set to do it to it on a micro scale. Original artistry or taggings that are prototypical but one of a kind and only exist in scale.
Indeed. I suppose one benefit of doing graffiti on a scale model is that it's an entirely legal way to do it, the only thing that I risk by painting graffiti on models is ribbing from some of my modelling colleagues. Most of the stuff I do replicates an existing work, although I have done a few that are original to me, but based on certain styles that I've seen.
Where did the paint company come up with the names for there colors?
Citadel Colour is owned by Games Workshop, and so the various names for their paints are drawn from the fantasy/sci-fi universes that their various games are set in. It apparently has to do with how copyright works. One cannot copyright a specific colour, but one can copyright the name and a combination use. So "Skarsnik" green is named after a particular green-skinned character in the Warhammer 40,000 universe, for example. Gauss Blasters are the name of a weapon carried by ancient robots that tend to glow green in the same game system. Etc. The same is also true for the Privateer Press colours as well.
What did you mean by silvering of the decals? Can you explain this please. I do not have much experience with applying decals and trying to learn as much as possible. Thanks and the car came out excellent. 👍
William, the slivering John refers to comes from applying the decals generally on a matte surface and trapping tiny pockets of air below the decal film. When applied on a gloss surface you can still get some silvering if you are not careful to force the air out before the decal dries, this shows up more as trapped bubbles.
William, what Ralph said. :) It's the main challenge for applying decals that look decent. Avoid silvering as much as possible, but as Ralph said, it can happen even on gloss surfaces if we aren't careful.
@@JCsRiptrack Is it also where you can see the clear decal film after the decal has dried and adhered to the model?
Sort of. After any decal has dried it is possible to see the film even if there is no slivering. However using decal solvents and brush-on gloss coats can reduce this. However, if the clear part of the film is obvious, then that’s what we call slivering.
Mural??? Sorry dude, that not a mural it's destruction of property.