Expanding Soft Polyurethane Foam - E60 PUR V-sure
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- Опубліковано 20 вер 2024
- Hi everyone, In this video I show you how I've made a soft feeling iron man mask, could be a punching ball or face.
PUR used here is called: PUR E60 v-sure from Vosschemie Benelux,
Link to the product lower in this description.
The production of this mask involves a few common tricks in prototyping with composites. Like always some trial and error will be involved as you can see in this video.
The projects starts with making a new strong mould. Normally I would go with the uni-mould system, which produces strong stable moulds, but for this project I decided to try it with some regular laminating polyester, this is the polyester resin that is pretty commonly available. Very important is to build up some thickness in different steps. This means adding some layers of CSM fiberglass and let it cure. Then sand to create a good mechanical bond. repeat this step a few times till you're happy with the thickness and stiffness of your part.
Once the new mould was ready a new mask is made in this mould with fiberglass. Don't forget to add release for a good removal out of the mould. The surface doesn't need to be perfect, you just want to have a part that fills the volume inside. Once this is done and the polyester has cured, I poured an amount of density 75 expanding polyurethane to fill the void in the mask all the way up. Once cured after 1 hour you can proceed to flattening the back to a nice and level surface. Once this is done it is time to seal the back of the part before we can make the backing plate of the mould. This is done by adding some polyester resin with CSM fiberglass to create the back of the shell. Make sure to nicely finish the back of the mask as well as any big surface imperfections here will be visible on the things you cast with polyurethane later on. Once this is done we can proceed with making the back of the mould. First apply release agent and repeat the steps we did in the beginning of the video using a gelcoat and build up of fiberglass with polyester resin in multiple steps. Once this is done you can demould the 2 part mould and remove the mask we've used as a master to make the new mould.
Clean the mould, sand and polish where needed and apply release agent.
The Chemical release agent from easy composites called easy lease can be used here or if you want a specific release for polyurethane resins you can find one on following link www.vosschemie...
Once your mould is ready we can proceed to mixing and pouring the soft PUR (polyurethane).
As with using new materials you'd better do a few testruns first. This is how I mostly do this:
PUR E60 v-sure from Vosschemie Benelux:
www.vosschemie...
As polyurethanes expand while curing it's good to test out how much it will expand in which way. That's why I start with mixing a low volume in open mould and go up to find the exact right amount needed. The right amount would be to have some pressure build up in your closed mould but not to much. The amount of force generated by the PUR can be a lot. Causing it to break, warp, destroy your moulds!
First trial didn't have enough material mixed, Second one was right, Third one was tested with closed mould and could use a bit more mixed PUR.
Using the E60 PUR on it's own will still have a foam texture with small holes. How to fix this is by using: www.vosschemie...
The inmould coating applied first into your mould will create a soft touch plastic feel with a fully closed skin on the outside of your part. This is pretty similar to a gelcoat while making moulds. You have to move quickly through your material after mixing as it is fast setting (which is a good thing if you want to make multiple prototypes in a short amount of time. The E60 PUR and PUR inmould coating can be tinted to any desired colour using PUR pigments. Keep in mind that while the E60 PUR is expanding it will faint a bit in strenght of your color. For example if you are not using enough red, after epanding your part might look pink (sometimes not desired)
Once your Inmould coating is cured in a b-stage (hard enough but still a bit tacky) you can proceed with mixing the amount of E60 you have found out to be the best for your project and pour it quickly in the mould and close the mould. You'll have to move quickly as the resin is expanding rapidly after mixing. Let it all harden out and remove out of the mould. If you still need to cut of a bit of the flanges you can use a sharp blade or scissors.
I hoped you liked this video, if you need more information, don't hesitate to contact me!
Facebook: / mat2composites
Instagram: matthieu.libeert
Twitter: @matthieutje65
web: www.mat2compos...
I really appreciate your work. Once worked with fiberglass only for 2 days and my whole house and clothes, furniture and kitchenware almost everything was covered is sticky resins. And believe me i really don't wanna mess with resins and fiberglass ever again. Great work
That's a beautiful final product!
I've done some mold making and I know it's almost always a lot harder than one would expect. Thanks for sharing your experience with us.
Thanks! I does look easier on video indeed 😁
Great to see a new video.
Haha true! Normally I should be able to get another one ready for next week
Very Cool! Really enjoy your content! Thank you!
Thanks! glad to hear you liked this one!
Great video! Thanks for sharing this. I really want to try this too.
It's pretty fun to work with 😁
this brings me back to the 80s when I used to make molds in my Mom's Kitchen and inject a foam latex , put it in the oven😂
Unfortunately I'm a 90's kid, never did that, but sounds cool 😁
@@MatthieuLibeert yeah, I wanted to be a special effects artist but it was pretty competitive. I like your work you're very skilled.👍
apparently, in the molded flexible foam industry (eg automotive car seats and things like that), aside from metals like milled or cast aluminum..... They also use epoxy. I got that off a flexible foam formulator's website and I havent seen many references to other materials, not even silicone or rigid PU.
Hallo matthieu mooie video en zeer mooi masker , verzorg je en blijf gezond grtjes dirk
Thanks Dirk! Jij ook! Nog een geluk dat ik alleen werk ;)
Excellent video
Hello, it’s a nice video. I need some advice from you. I am making shin pads for MMA. What is the PU chemical that I should purchase. For my product the PU should be more stronger than your product. Please advise me! 🙏
Trying to learn stuff for a... uhhh.. project. Is PU foam skin safe?
Cool Matthieu!
Thank you! :)
Great video!! Do you to know how one can make poron foam please?
Thanx it s great video, just a question please,
Does this type of foam not melt when you pour polyester on it?
Hello did they have delivery in africa
Hi Matthieu .................... Can you get this product a little firmer? As it's called 'E60', I assume that's the Shore hardness of the foam itself.
I'm thinking it would be great for moulding seats, I'm converting a VW camper van at the moment ( one of my other projects ), so all my furniture, seats and bed are custom made, no chance of buying ready made seats covers. With a product such as this, I could make seat covers of any shape, size and dimension.
TURK
Ehy nice video, how can I finish a harder polyurethane foam? like, what kind of paint or resin do you suggest?
What pigment do you use to colour the PUR/in-mould coating?
Waiting for the answer too
What mask do you wear when working on these molds to protect your lungs?
Is the polyurethane can used for outsole shoes ? If yes, may i know your recommendation of which type of polyurethane that match to making outsole ? Thanks
When will you do a video about forged carbon fiber?
When I find the right products to use for forged 🙂
@@MatthieuLibeert Gonna try to make a Forged ''look'' carbon fiber part with hand layup and then vacuum bag.
Sure works but not really 'forged' 🙂
@@MatthieuLibeert That's true :). But people only care about the look. If the look is the same who cares if it is forged or not? The advatage of forged carbon fiber is that you can make a part in 10 minutes compare to 24 Hours
@@capitao2259 Tried with chopped carbon fiber hand layup, something similar to compression moulding on my helmet. Finish is looking good but it turned out to be a thick layer (around 2-3mm), sure it's very strong now but heavy too😅
спасибо за видио.
İndrukwekkend, waar koop je deze producten?
Thanks! Link naar producten staan in beschrijving onder de video 🙂
hello
what if I didn't want it to be shiny?
Hi, I'm able to get mould released from the plug very easily but the part is always sticking the gel coat, tried using wax+pva, only wax but many layers no use though, what might be the reason and any suggestion for easy release of parts.
I use the chemical release agent from Easy Composites that works extremely well
i know about in mould coating material please guide with formulation and materials details
I didn't make these materials myself and bought them from vosschemie, so can't really help you with formulation and such
0.197 inches
Hi there. How get flexible plastic outside the mask on last project? Silicone? Pur? What similar product inmouldcoating fastbase? Is gel coat? Any similar product looks like this rubberized final mask? What pigment used? Thanks a lot
Do you do this for a living?
this is my daily job yes. Mostly not making these kind of stuff...I use rather popular topics for the tutorial video's and work related is mostly more industrial applications for customers
Iron man❤❤😁
I assume your a fan of iron man? :D
No ulike
When you wanna craft something and go on youtube to see how it's made only to realize you are nowhere near as industrious as the project demands. :(
dude wear a mask while sanding fiberglas........
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍