Some service manuals specifically say to loosen the front nut with the bike in neutral to avoid transmission damage. I always jam some wood in between the sprocket and frame to keep it still. Also, use a digital caliper to measure the outer plates of the chain and compare to your master link when riveting your new chain to ensure you have riveted enough and not too much.
@@2025944 I just sat on the bike and put my foot on the brake, managed to undo the nut with a long breaker bar with my left arm, tightened it the same way.
doesn't the master link come with the chain? Also if the manuals recommend this, I am assuming they make a specific part to jam the sprocket. Any idea what this is called? (unless if they recommend to use wood, I just don't have any)
i just love! absolutely adore this series... can't get enough of it, I'm not very mechanically minded... or never was really but lately i've had a strange thirst and with the help of this series i can do some bits now! thanks a lot man, keep up the good work regards from the UK
I'm in Australia and I hit a wom at at 90 kilometres on the left peg and had to replace that and the gear lever and now I can't stop 😂 This series definitely helps with some stuff I've always been scared to do my own work but this makes me confident
Only thing worth adding is that there is usually a crush washer you need to flatten on the front sprocket before removing the front sprocket nut. Great video!
Another tip, buy extra master links! you don't want to ruin a master clip and to make the trip or order one online. Not all master links are the same either. Tolerances vary across the board. Great job Ari! I would be too scared to rivet the master link while it rests on the sprocket for fear of damaging a tooth or 2 on the sprocket.
It's also a good idea to loosen the rear sprocket mounting nuts (if you can get at them) before raising the rear wheel, the same way that you did the front one. Sometimes they can be really hard to loosen on the bench, while trying to hold the wheel.
Just a tip from someone who did it for a lot of years....why LIFT to undo the nut....stand on the other side and push DOWN....much easier..right?....wheel nuts....etc all the same rule....don't lift to tighten or loosen....push DOWN....no matter which one you need to do Cheers from Canada North from an old VW mechanic
Great tip Wayne but most motorcycles have fairings in the way in front to be able to push it down. I would rather not risk accidentally hitting and cracking my body over a little comfort.
I'll be honest, I learned without instruction to pop a pin to remove a chain without a grinder. I've never thrown a new one on, but I sure was waiting for that orange mallet to make an entrance. Thanks for the upload bud 🤙🏼
so glad you guys had a video for this. links on my chain are starting to get stiff and I think I may need to change it soon. only got 15,000 miles on it maybe I need to take better care of my chains
Nice. I wish I watched this video before I installed my chain and sprockets, LOL You forgot to mention that you need to press the plates of the rivet link together using that tool. I found that finicky and had to enlist the help of a friend as it required a lot of oomph to press the rivet link together so that the rivet pins stick out far enough. Also to flare the rivets, you typically turn the Motion Pro 3/4 to a full turn. You don't want to over-flare the rivet.
Definitely take your time with it. Tried to adjust it myself once, was slightly off, and I could definitely feel it, the tire was wearing all weird. Took it up to a shop because I was do for a new rear tire anyway, and they gave me the bike back with the alignment off, and ZERO chain slack. Safe to say I was super anal about tightening both sides at the same exact rate, and it worked out. If I can do it, anyone can, just takes the extra time for an untrained eye/mechanic
@@jeffsalmons927 I have been on the road for just 6 years, but every single shop I have come across whether it’s for the car or bike, has been an absolute nightmare. All of this time, and the only shop I’ve found that I like, is some dude who used to race, that does work out of his garage. Super knowledgeable, actually gives a damn about you, and will give you tips all day long. Sad how you can’t trust most shops to give you their honesty and do good work.
I am an actual aircraft mechanic and must say this makes everything so simple fore the home mechanics only I won't hit the axel with a hammer just put some lube on it keep op the good work man
Right, 3 points. 1. I've seen split links used on 250cc, 60 horse power crossers with never one single failure so rivetted joins seem pointless as opposed to clip links. 2. If you do use a rivet link the old one can be removed by first de heading the old pins with a £25 cordless grinder which prob you already have then pushing it out. The new plate pressed on with a g clamp. 3. I finally invested in a bike lift last year and honestly cannot over-stress how much they'll changed your life.
I watched this so many times before I did mine that by the time I got to it I didn't need the video at all. Very satisfying to get the work done on your own.
This video is great, thanks. But I can’t find a video by you for front sprocket swap procedure. Can you make video or send link to video that already exists?
Can you go into the riveting part a big more please, I have just done this exact thing, I had to borrow a real professional riveter as the cheap bit of crap I had was not up to it. Also can you explain why chain lube is needed when the links are full of new grease. Love the show, thanks
Notice the axel is inserted into the left side of the swingarm first. So when you tighten the axel nut clockwise towards the front of the bike the chain tension adjustment bolt will stop the wheel from moving forward.
Can you please explain why you skipped the "press" step with this tool? I'm going to be replacing my chain for the first time soon with the same Motion Pro PBR. The directions show to press the side plate before you rivet the master link. Thanks for any info!
How about using a new locking plate for the front sprocket? Usually they don't include them in the chain kit, so you have to buy that yourself. Great channel by the way, lots of usefull info!
Could you guys do a video on sprocket set ups? Like the pros and cons to adding and subtracting teeth on the front and rear sprockets? Also what combination works best for different situations, and whether or not it's worth changing your stock set up?
If you are replacing the chain and rear sprocket there is no need to remove the front sprocket right? I know its recommended to replace the sprockets at the same time as the chain but just asking whether the front sprocket removal is necessary if your just replacing the chain. Thanks in advance
I assume if the chain has the proper number of links, you adjust the chain tension bolts as required? What I'm asking is, where will the axle alignment indication markers be once a new chain is installed? Forward or middle marker?
Good overall instructions, but missing the detail on putting on the new master link before mushrooming the rivets and how to measure the master link rivets mushroom.
Great vid n info... But i hv a question. Is it true if i upgrade my front sprocket from 14 to 15 n will increase my bike topspeed? Some say change the rear sprocket from 42 to 40 will also increase topspeed... Can u give comment about this? Btw my bike is kawasaki Z250... thnks mate
14-15 will increase you acceleration, 42 -40 will decrease acceleration more top speed, but don't know by how much, doing both would sort of negate each other
Both might increase the top speed, but only if you are hitting the rev limiter in the top gear, otherwise it will only decrease the rpms.(stock 6 gear 100km/h lets say 4000 rpms, if you change the front sprocket to higher tooth and rear to lower, or only one, you might get 3000 rpms or something like that at 100 km/h, which might be useful on long rides.)
If I have an impact wrench, do I need to put it in gear prior to removal of the front sprocket? Do I have to mark the location of the gear shift arm prior to removal?
I put grease on the o-rings, but I forgot to grease the pins and inside of the link holes. I haven't riveted the chain yet but I already pressed the plate on. Is there a way to remove the plate so that I can grease the pins and holes and still salvage the master link? If I can't salvage the master link, how do I get the plate off?
Is there any information we can find out there on the clip type master links? I'm wondering if they're "not as safe" why are so many top manufacturers (Including DID) manufacturing these? I just installed a new DID chain and sprockets on my 2012 FZ1 and used the clip type master link.
I read some mixed info on rivet vs clip type master links. Some people say to stay away, while others say that they are perfectly fine... Lots of manufacturers make clip types, so it must be good enough? Just went to a local store and they only sold clip types and told me that they put them on all the bikes they service and their staff bikes with no issues *shrug*
So for figuring my chain length- if I have a 120 link chain and it needs to finish at 118, do I cut 3 links off because the master link will make the 118th? Or do I cut it to 118 then add the master link regardless?
i want to change the front sprocket only because im going 2 teeth down. can i just loose the rear wheel (like when you adjust the chain tension), replace the sprocket and pull the wheel back to get the right chain tension? would be easier and faster than taking everything apart
2:47 to 2:57. Don't forget to clean ( using brake cleaner spray and some cloth..perhaps arguably consider steel wool) and wipe it smooth and clean with a fresh clean soft cloth and then apply some high temp grease of antiseize compound ( often found in grey or silver color) to the axle itself
Why did you not wind in the chain tensioners? Fit the new chain at minimum adjustment, looking at your fitment the tensioner was out quite far for the new chain.
1:20 wait is the sprocket threaded in the same direction it turns? (ie. sprocket turns counter-clockwise to turn the tire, yet the guy turned the sprocket in the same direction to unthread it) Why don't they counter-thread it? Also, should the bike be in neutral for this? While using the breaker bar, what if the brake doesn't hold; will that mess up the engine since there could be a lot of sudden torque?
Some of those front sprocket nuts are an absolute ball ache to get off. Weirdly though; the toughest one i ever experienced was on a 125, long time ago.
been running clip types for years on high powered bikes never had a problem just carry a spare clip just in case. Seen more chains stranding people all over the place with the rivet type.
Hey, I have duke 390. My chain is elongated from one part.. So whenever I tight the chain it gets loose after the first ride.. It also makes cyclic noise during the ride.. Should I replace it??
Clip type master links are unsafe? They're used on pretty much any offroad bike without any problems and make it 100x easier to clean the chain since you can remove it.
'...you can use a clip type but they aren't as safe and they're definitely not recommended..." Ari Henning maybe could have added that clip-type links are common on off-road motorcycles, and on lower powered street bikes. However he is working on a high powered street machine with a 530 chain. The issue is around the power being transmitted through the chain on a (high powered) street bike, especially as the chain ages and the link to link length changes. The use of a rivet is a permanent closure unlike a clip link. It is therefore much less likely to separate under use (say one of the pins on the link freezes with loss of lubricant and age...). A street bike chain is likely to be in use for multiple years and up to 30,000 miles or more with proper maintenance. Some of them will be dealing with 75 - 140 or more horsepower when under acceleration. I'd never use a clip-link on my street bikes for the reasons I've shared above. On my off-road machines? Yes, I have used clip-links. Remember that the consequences of a sudden chain failure can be rather drastic at highway speeds. I hope my comments are acceptable and answer your question respectfully.
Clipstyle master links been going for donkeys years and still are, they are tried and tested, aswell as proven. My Honda CB500Sport has always had chains installed with clip style master link.. no bother whatsoever. Although to be fair I always go for the regular heavy duty chain as opposed to O/X-ring. Maybe on an O-ring or X-ring it is different? Or perhaps 1000cc bikes and up tend to avoid clipstyle... No idea.. for me they are very reliable
Haha, sounds simple enough. That literally doesn't look that hard, but then again, not everyone has a ex-mechanic for a Dad. I think I would enjoy doing this sort of thing, taking the Bike apart (not literally) and replacing all the bits, when it is time of course.
Some service manuals specifically say to loosen the front nut with the bike in neutral to avoid transmission damage. I always jam some wood in between the sprocket and frame to keep it still. Also, use a digital caliper to measure the outer plates of the chain and compare to your master link when riveting your new chain to ensure you have riveted enough and not too much.
You could also tighten the brake down with straps or something cause I don't know about you but I never have anybody around.
@@2025944 I just sat on the bike and put my foot on the brake, managed to undo the nut with a long breaker bar with my left arm, tightened it the same way.
doesn't the master link come with the chain?
Also if the manuals recommend this, I am assuming they make a specific part to jam the sprocket. Any idea what this is called? (unless if they recommend to use wood, I just don't have any)
Zip it off with an impact gun. No need to complicate things
That clip of you struggling with the rear axle is so comforting. Always feel like it's just me, mucking it up as usual.
Whenever I see a video from any channel with this guy in it, I know I'm in good hands.
i just love!
absolutely adore this series...
can't get enough of it, I'm not very mechanically minded... or never was really but lately i've had a strange thirst and with the help of this series i can do some bits now!
thanks a lot man, keep up the good work
regards from the UK
That's awesome to hear. We're glad the series is helping you tackle some projects.
bad time to comment haha. limo Bizkit and korn live atm..
will go for ride tomorrow once sober :)
keep up the good work u lovely lot x
Motorcyclist Magazine
I'm in Australia and I hit a wom at at 90 kilometres on the left peg and had to replace that and the gear lever and now I can't stop 😂
This series definitely helps with some stuff I've always been scared to do my own work but this makes me confident
Only thing worth adding is that there is usually a crush washer you need to flatten on the front sprocket before removing the front sprocket nut. Great video!
Only reason why I'm here thanks do I bend it back or does it bend itself back?
@@2025944 Did you get your answer? Wondering whether or not I need to replace mine or if I can just bend it back.
@@southend26 I'd suggest just tapping one edge up on the nut after aslong as the sprockets tight enough it should be fine
@@2025944 Thanks!
Another tip, buy extra master links! you don't want to ruin a master clip and to make the trip or order one online. Not all master links are the same either. Tolerances vary across the board. Great job Ari! I would be too scared to rivet the master link while it rests on the sprocket for fear of damaging a tooth or 2 on the sprocket.
How would flaring the rivets on the sprocket damage its teeth?
@@bikersquestit won't
I usually hate when big companies make youtube channels. But got damn you guys really put work, and passion into these videos.
It's also a good idea to loosen the rear sprocket mounting nuts (if you can get at them) before raising the rear wheel, the same way that you did the front one. Sometimes they can be really hard to loosen on the bench, while trying to hold the wheel.
Good advice
Well shit, that just happened to me. guess im wd40 those bitches for a few days
Digital callipers are invaluable for measuring the crush on the master link, the chain manufacturer will tell you the diameter you want to aim for.
Honestly never thought I would use mine as much as I do, definitely worth the investment.
what a sweet moment when that rear axle falls into place. :)
Just a tip from someone who did it for a lot of years....why LIFT to undo the nut....stand on the other side and push DOWN....much easier..right?....wheel nuts....etc all the same rule....don't lift to tighten or loosen....push DOWN....no matter which one you need to do
Cheers from Canada North from an old VW mechanic
Great tip Wayne but most motorcycles have fairings in the way in front to be able to push it down. I would rather not risk accidentally hitting and cracking my body over a little comfort.
If you're strong pulling is better than push
I'll be honest, I learned without instruction to pop a pin to remove a chain without a grinder. I've never thrown a new one on, but I sure was waiting for that orange mallet to make an entrance. Thanks for the upload bud 🤙🏼
On the assembly line, we called the orange mallet “The Problem Solver.l
You guys are hands down my favorite MC channel.
Guys. What have you done to me?
Since I watch your videos I want to learn more things day by day about bikes. Amazing channel
so glad you guys had a video for this. links on my chain are starting to get stiff and I think I may need to change it soon. only got 15,000 miles on it maybe I need to take better care of my chains
Great video, guys!
Awesome video after years owning my Busa's I'm finally doing my chain and sprockets myself and found this video helpful as. Cheers from Down Under
You've explained in a very well way.Ill follow up these processes
Excellent videos, definitely adding to my favorites for future reference.
Nice. I wish I watched this video before I installed my chain and sprockets, LOL
You forgot to mention that you need to press the plates of the rivet link together using that tool. I found that finicky and had to enlist the help of a friend as it required a lot of oomph to press the rivet link together so that the rivet pins stick out far enough.
Also to flare the rivets, you typically turn the Motion Pro 3/4 to a full turn. You don't want to over-flare the rivet.
It's a great time to also do an inspection of your rear wheel bearings. I'm guessing that will be in another video Ari?
Fabulous video, straight to the point and well produced! Thanks
I'm nervous to even tighten my chain on my own bc I don't want to mess up my alignment on my back wheel ... let alone take it all off mannnnn
Hope you got past this fear... He does have another video on rear wheel alignment.
If you knew some of the idiots that work on your bike at the shop, you might have more confidence in yourself. Lol at least that's my experience.
Your rear wheel alignment is not THAT sensetive and also, what Jeff Salmons said.
Go out there and wrench something off! You'll figure it out.
Definitely take your time with it. Tried to adjust it myself once, was slightly off, and I could definitely feel it, the tire was wearing all weird. Took it up to a shop because I was do for a new rear tire anyway, and they gave me the bike back with the alignment off, and ZERO chain slack. Safe to say I was super anal about tightening both sides at the same exact rate, and it worked out. If I can do it, anyone can, just takes the extra time for an untrained eye/mechanic
@@jeffsalmons927 I have been on the road for just 6 years, but every single shop I have come across whether it’s for the car or bike, has been an absolute nightmare. All of this time, and the only shop I’ve found that I like, is some dude who used to race, that does work out of his garage. Super knowledgeable, actually gives a damn about you, and will give you tips all day long. Sad how you can’t trust most shops to give you their honesty and do good work.
Brief and concise. Perfect clip.
I already knew how to do this, as i did it several times, but i just like your videos!
I am an actual aircraft mechanic and must say this makes everything so simple fore the home mechanics only I won't hit the axel with a hammer just put some lube on it keep op the good work man
An actual aircraft mechanic? As opposed to a fake one?
Easy,straightforward instruction vid to understand. Thanks
I like your videos. Quick and simple.
MC Garage, this is a great series, I love it. Thanks for the videos!
The best channel of the world!!!
Im brazilian and folow you!
Thank you so much for not making this 40 minutes
Right, 3 points.
1. I've seen split links used on 250cc, 60 horse power crossers with never one single failure so rivetted joins seem pointless as opposed to clip links.
2. If you do use a rivet link the old one can be removed by first de heading the old pins with a £25 cordless grinder which prob you already have then pushing it out. The new plate pressed on with a g clamp.
3. I finally invested in a bike lift last year and honestly cannot over-stress how much they'll changed your life.
Had this on repeat while I changed my chain and sprockets and it went off without a hitch!
Thanks so much for making this ez tutorial.
I watched this so many times before I did mine that by the time I got to it I didn't need the video at all. Very satisfying to get the work done on your own.
As usual, Great instructions and GREAT instructor. Excellent!
Lots of love from India. We love your work. Appreciate your videos always. :)
Thanks for the cool advice it's really helpful! Keep up the good work.
You are a great teacher. Great video
Very simple and professional video. Nice work
Great video! I have been using these videos for help repairing my moped.
That chain looked brand new to start!
This video is great, thanks. But I can’t find a video by you for front sprocket swap procedure. Can you make video or send link to video that already exists?
This guy is awesome! Keep up the great work!
Can you go into the riveting part a big more please, I have just done this exact thing, I had to borrow a real professional riveter as the cheap bit of crap I had was not up to it. Also can you explain why chain lube is needed when the links are full of new grease.
Love the show, thanks
is it just me or he is "Two Chains" right at the beginning of the video???? OMG , i laughed so hard. Nice one
Notice the axel is inserted into the left side of the swingarm first. So when you tighten the axel nut clockwise towards the front of the bike the chain tension adjustment bolt will stop the wheel from moving forward.
Can you please explain why you skipped the "press" step with this tool? I'm going to be replacing my chain for the first time soon with the same Motion Pro PBR. The directions show to press the side plate before you rivet the master link. Thanks for any info!
Yes I am wondering the same..
Just want to thank you guys for uploading such good videos, I've never seen UA-cam channels cover so many DIY episodes in such clean and fun way.
How about using a new locking plate for the front sprocket? Usually they don't include them in the chain kit, so you have to buy that yourself.
Great channel by the way, lots of usefull info!
Question: how many miles intervals before you change your chain and sprockets? Thanks.
Check on the shape of sprockets not the miles
@@marsmarion3812 what exactly am I supposed to be looking for?
@@thescorpionchannel2263 the teeth are not supposed to have sharp tips
I might as well buy a bike to get serviced in your garage. Awesome. I liking the video fort hose flashy necklaces - lol
Great video!
For any one worried or cursing themselves: avoid cracking the rivet heads, but if you do, don’t worry about it, it really is no big deal
Awesome video bro 👍
Could you guys do a video on sprocket set ups? Like the pros and cons to adding and subtracting teeth on the front and rear sprockets? Also what combination works best for different situations, and whether or not it's worth changing your stock set up?
Awesome video!
If you are replacing the chain and rear sprocket there is no need to remove the front sprocket right? I know its recommended to replace the sprockets at the same time as the chain but just asking whether the front sprocket removal is necessary if your just replacing the chain. Thanks in advance
Is the process the same for a cruiser? There are no videos on UA-cam. Thanks in advance.
Nicholas Foster Not if your cruiser uses a belt rather than a chain.
I assume if the chain has the proper number of links, you adjust the chain tension bolts as required? What I'm asking is, where will the axle alignment indication markers be once a new chain is installed? Forward or middle marker?
You guys are great !!! thanks,
and i cant wait till you get to the engine part and clutch stuff
Good overall instructions, but missing the detail on putting on the new master link before mushrooming the rivets and how to measure the master link rivets mushroom.
Excellent video!! Thanks so much!
Great vid n info...
But i hv a question. Is it true if i upgrade my front sprocket from 14 to 15 n will increase my bike topspeed? Some say change the rear sprocket from 42 to 40 will also increase topspeed... Can u give comment about this? Btw my bike is kawasaki Z250...
thnks mate
14-15 will increase you acceleration, 42 -40 will decrease acceleration more top speed, but don't know by how much, doing both would sort of negate each other
Both might increase the top speed, but only if you are hitting the rev limiter in the top gear, otherwise it will only decrease the rpms.(stock 6 gear 100km/h lets say 4000 rpms, if you change the front sprocket to higher tooth and rear to lower, or only one, you might get 3000 rpms or something like that at 100 km/h, which might be useful on long rides.)
Im thinking to change my front spocket to 15t... Tq for the explaination
Wish they were still making these videos.
If I have an impact wrench, do I need to put it in gear prior to removal of the front sprocket? Do I have to mark the location of the gear shift arm prior to removal?
How do I know when the chain needs to be replaced?
Great instructional content
Awesome, bout to do mine so perfect timing
I put grease on the o-rings, but I forgot to grease the pins and inside of the link holes. I haven't riveted the chain yet but I already pressed the plate on. Is there a way to remove the plate so that I can grease the pins and holes and still salvage the master link? If I can't salvage the master link, how do I get the plate off?
Is there any information we can find out there on the clip type master links? I'm wondering if they're "not as safe" why are so many top manufacturers (Including DID) manufacturing these? I just installed a new DID chain and sprockets on my 2012 FZ1 and used the clip type master link.
I'm assuming since this video was created, there have been technological advances with this tech maybe?
I read some mixed info on rivet vs clip type master links. Some people say to stay away, while others say that they are perfectly fine... Lots of manufacturers make clip types, so it must be good enough?
Just went to a local store and they only sold clip types and told me that they put them on all the bikes they service and their staff bikes with no issues *shrug*
So for figuring my chain length- if I have a 120 link chain and it needs to finish at 118, do I cut 3 links off because the master link will make the 118th? Or do I cut it to 118 then add the master link regardless?
Thanks for posting. Great instructions
i want to change the front sprocket only because im going 2 teeth down. can i just loose the rear wheel (like when you adjust the chain tension), replace the sprocket and pull the wheel back to get the right chain tension? would be easier and faster than taking everything apart
Is it good to put 15T/50T and 428 chain&sprocket on my bike which is 125cc 4T Derbi Senda Baja?
MC Garage
I installed a new chain today from an outside garage shop, but the chain looks all silver with no oil on it. Is it good???
2:47 to 2:57. Don't forget to clean ( using brake cleaner spray and some cloth..perhaps arguably consider steel wool) and wipe it smooth and clean with a fresh clean soft cloth and then apply some high temp grease of antiseize compound ( often found in grey or silver color) to the axle itself
One of my sprocket nuts ran slack and grazed down my swing arm. I didn't notice any damage to the sprocket so I assume it's fine.
Looking for an excuse to buy tools. Would an impact driver work to break off/put on the front sprocket?
I can't stop staring at this guys biceps, no homo.
Two questions!! Why didn’t you “bump” the chain & why didn’t you measure the space between the master link and orings??
Do you count master link when you are sizing the chain? 108 so is that before or after the master link is on
Guru. Do you grease the rear axle before putting the wheel back on?
Can’t hurt too put a light coat of grease on it, that’s what I did after I put new tires on mine.
I need a advice , rivet or clip ? And what's tha diference. Thanks 👍
Marco Vieira rivets better for higher speed more reliable and trustworthy
Why did you not wind in the chain tensioners? Fit the new chain at minimum adjustment, looking at your fitment the tensioner was out quite far for the new chain.
This video is amazing. Wow. Thank you!
Ha Im glad to have the single side swing arm when it comes time to remove the wheel. Rear wheel is easy as 4 bolts.
Some front sprockets are bulkier than others which are flat. Does that matter when the tooth count is correct?
1:20 wait is the sprocket threaded in the same direction it turns?
(ie. sprocket turns counter-clockwise to turn the tire, yet the guy turned the sprocket in the same direction to unthread it)
Why don't they counter-thread it?
Also, should the bike be in neutral for this? While using the breaker bar, what if the brake doesn't hold; will that mess up the engine since there could be a lot of sudden torque?
Some of those front sprocket nuts are an absolute ball ache to get off. Weirdly though; the toughest one i ever experienced was on a 125, long time ago.
Good video
Hi, is there not a single video on youtube that rivets a chain with a solid rivet?
been running clip types for years on high powered bikes never had a problem just carry a spare clip just in case. Seen more chains stranding people all over the place with the rivet type.
Hey, I have duke 390. My chain is elongated from one part.. So whenever I tight the chain it gets loose after the first ride.. It also makes cyclic noise during the ride.. Should I replace it??
Clip type master links are unsafe? They're used on pretty much any offroad bike without any problems and make it 100x easier to clean the chain since you can remove it.
i'd like to know why it's unsafe
'...you can use a clip type but they aren't as safe and they're definitely not recommended..." Ari Henning maybe could have added that clip-type links are common on off-road motorcycles, and on lower powered street bikes. However he is working on a high powered street machine with a 530 chain. The issue is around the power being transmitted through the chain on a (high powered) street bike, especially as the chain ages and the link to link length changes. The use of a rivet is a permanent closure unlike a clip link. It is therefore much less likely to separate under use (say one of the pins on the link freezes with loss of lubricant and age...). A street bike chain is likely to be in use for multiple years and up to 30,000 miles or more with proper maintenance. Some of them will be dealing with 75 - 140 or more horsepower when under acceleration. I'd never use a clip-link on my street bikes for the reasons I've shared above. On my off-road machines? Yes, I have used clip-links. Remember that the consequences of a sudden chain failure can be rather drastic at highway speeds. I hope my comments are acceptable and answer your question respectfully.
Clipstyle master links been going for donkeys years and still are, they are tried and tested, aswell as proven. My Honda CB500Sport has always had chains installed with clip style master link.. no bother whatsoever. Although to be fair I always go for the regular heavy duty chain as opposed to O/X-ring. Maybe on an O-ring or X-ring it is different? Or perhaps 1000cc bikes and up tend to avoid clipstyle... No idea.. for me they are very reliable
Haha, sounds simple enough. That literally doesn't look that hard, but then again, not everyone has a ex-mechanic for a Dad. I think I would enjoy doing this sort of thing, taking the Bike apart (not literally) and replacing all the bits, when it is time of course.
***** Yeah, I am thinking of joining the Air-Force, Mechanical Engineering.
How do I know if I can torque the front sprocket down while it is in gear? My torque spec is 69 ft lbs
Whats the torque recommended for a Kawasaki Ninja 650 2006 front and rear sprocket?
Great vid, thanks!
Excellent.
Most people suggest loctiting the rear sprocket nuts too, to ensure they don't come loose...