You are an incredible craftsman sir and it is a joy to watch your skills in action. I have been an subscriber for a long time, but this is my first comment. It is obvious that your abilities come from a life time dedicated to your art. I subscribe to at least 50 guitar builders/tech repair/mod channels. You out class them all and without the fancy high tech edge, click bait thumbnails and fluff. Just a camera, a man, and his skills. Invaluable content. Keep it up.
My uncle has a beautiful classical guitar made in Spain that he says is worth over $10K. He's toured around the world and is an amazing player. I always wondered how those tiny rosette tiles were all fitted so nicely. Now I know :- ) Great work. Thank you so much for sharing your craft!
Summary: Maple veneer, half a millimeter thick, is used for making the guitar rosette mosaic inlay. The veneer strips are dyed with fabric dye, simmered for a couple of hours for full penetration. Strips are glued together using standard woodworking glue, aligned with aluminum flatstock bars and water spray to prevent sticking. After drying, the strips are scraped to final thickness using a Stanley number 90 bullnose plane. Individual tiles are cut, shaped, and glued into place, secured further with thinned glue to lock them in the rosette.
Have you looked into using a spaghetti machine to cut your veneer strips? Couple of turns of the crank and you've got a pile of equally sized pieces. 👌👍
Amazing video. I have watched so many which he power tools and make it look so complicated. That compass cutter looks good any chance in a video of how to make one. Thanks
The blade is honed at about 25 or 30 degrees - it's not really critical, and I don't put a burr on it. The plane is clamped to the base of the jig so the blade is angled about 10 degrees forward from perpendicular. That seems to make it easier to introduce the strips and get a smoother scraping action. I flip the strips end for end and upside down so it evens out any error. It's a useful - I use it to size my binding strips for the guitar body as well.
Ben Schmolze all the lines in a single row are glued up at the same time. It's just easier to spread glue on five or six lines. I lay the strips out and pick up five, put glue on them, set them down and do the rest. Then all of them get squeezed up against the straightedge together.
Makes sense. Thanks! I tried two rows earlier - thinned the glue (titebond II) just a tiny bit. I tested the rows after one hour and they pulled apart like nothing. I guess I should not thin it, and let it set up longer. But the titebond sets up really quickly. Thanks again for your help.
Great work!!! I have a 6 string lute purchased from an estate sale in texas, which now resides in Toronto, it needs a couple tuning gears replaces, a full set of pegs, binding repaired, and any information found from interior inspection would be wonderful. The rosette is broken and I attempted to repair the broken headstock with gorilla glue to a pathetic result. I don't have a lot of money to throw at this but maybe you are interested in a "pro-bono" since it is a unique and interesting build. I will cover all shipping and cost that I can... Interested????
Could you tell me, what is the accessory you use to make the mouth of the rosette? I can see that it is an adapter that is put on the router, I have tried for years to buy it, but I do not know where to buy it, could you help me? Thank you
All dyes fade. The earliest guitar of mine that I see that has fabric dye is from 2002 and it still looks fresh. It's best to keep them in the case when not in use to limit UV exposure.
@@twoodfrd so true, and the delta cost (difference over time -this one) is bonkers. For dying or cooking skinny long things try an asparagus cooker the horizontal kind. Uses less fluid and dye but takes more space to store. The ornate lids are for presentation and serving, for the picky ones some have a 15 degree tilt to drain the fluid to a recess. That is added in the kitchen after cooking of course.
You are an incredible craftsman sir and it is a joy to watch your skills in action. I have been an subscriber for a long time, but this is my first comment. It is obvious that your abilities come from a life time dedicated to your art. I subscribe to at least 50 guitar builders/tech repair/mod channels. You out class them all and without the fancy high tech edge, click bait thumbnails and fluff. Just a camera, a man, and his skills. Invaluable content. Keep it up.
Wow! You are a patient man. It was very cool to see this process. Thanks
My uncle has a beautiful classical guitar made in Spain that he says is worth over $10K. He's toured around the world and is an amazing player. I always wondered how those tiny rosette tiles were all fitted so nicely. Now I know :- ) Great work. Thank you so much for sharing your craft!
Just gorgeous…love this particular pattern…I’m a fiber artist, dye and spin my own yarns…just love the flowers and the maple leaves!
Wow, that was fascinating! Amazing skill...
Absolutely beautiful work but oh what patience and focus. How can you charge enough?
Pretty work.
Very cool! Thank you for sharing this.
I really enjoy your feeds, this one however blew me away because I never realized what goes into making these rosettes.
That is so cool! Handmade means hand made! Wow!
Amazing work.
ABSOLUTELY ENTHRAWLING!!!
Summary:
Maple veneer, half a millimeter thick, is used for making the guitar rosette mosaic inlay.
The veneer strips are dyed with fabric dye, simmered for a couple of hours for full penetration.
Strips are glued together using standard woodworking glue, aligned with aluminum flatstock bars and water spray to prevent sticking.
After drying, the strips are scraped to final thickness using a Stanley number 90 bullnose plane.
Individual tiles are cut, shaped, and glued into place, secured further with thinned glue to lock them in the rosette.
Amazing!!
Beautiful.
Well that's awesome!
Wow, you made that like the old 8 bit graphics! Precision cutting there.
I'd love to see an update showing more detail on this process - like how you assembled those patterns. Amazing stuff.
Very interesting and pretty pattern in those tiles. Enjoy your videos!
That was so cool and a realy noce pattern.
that was awesome thx
Thats beautiful man and very helpfull too
Excellent tutorial! Thanks.
That is awesome, well done man!
Wonderful concise video. I like clear thinkers.
QUESTION: Your sound hole looks rather large. Like to share the size?
This was a steel string guitar so the diameter was about 95mm, which is pretty typical. My classicals are usually 85mm.
alot clearer than most other videos on this subject
Have you looked into using a spaghetti machine to cut your veneer strips? Couple of turns of the crank and you've got a pile of equally sized pieces. 👌👍
Amazing video. I have watched so many which he power tools and make it look so complicated. That compass cutter looks good any chance in a video of how to make one. Thanks
I will try and make a video about this some time in the next week or so. Thanks for the idea. :)
Thank you.
Brilliant
Muy bu gracias
wow
Awesome video man - thank you! Question: what angle do you hone your #90 plane to, and do you turn a burr on it?
The blade is honed at about 25 or 30 degrees - it's not really critical, and I don't put a burr on it. The plane is clamped to the base of the jig so the blade is angled about 10 degrees forward from perpendicular. That seems to make it easier to introduce the strips and get a smoother scraping action. I flip the strips end for end and upside down so it evens out any error. It's a useful - I use it to size my binding strips for the guitar body as well.
Thanks! Are you gluing up each row in 2 parts? This has been the most helpful video on youtube for me on this subject. Much appreciated.
Ben Schmolze all the lines in a single row are glued up at the same time. It's just easier to spread glue on five or six lines. I lay the strips out and pick up five, put glue on them, set them down and do the rest. Then all of them get squeezed up against the straightedge together.
Makes sense. Thanks! I tried two rows earlier - thinned the glue (titebond II) just a tiny bit. I tested the rows after one hour and they pulled apart like nothing. I guess I should not thin it, and let it set up longer. But the titebond sets up really quickly. Thanks again for your help.
Great work!!! I have a 6 string lute purchased from an estate sale in texas, which now resides in Toronto, it needs a couple tuning gears replaces, a full set of pegs, binding repaired, and any information found from interior inspection would be wonderful. The rosette is broken and I attempted to repair the broken headstock with gorilla glue to a pathetic result. I don't have a lot of money to throw at this but maybe you are interested in a "pro-bono" since it is a unique and interesting build. I will cover all shipping and cost that I can... Interested????
Could you tell me, what is the accessory you use to make the mouth of the rosette? I can see that it is an adapter that is put on the router, I have tried for years to buy it, but I do not know where to buy it, could you help me? Thank you
You use fabric dye to color the wood veneer? Does the color fade over time?
All dyes fade. The earliest guitar of mine that I see that has fabric dye is from 2002 and it still looks fresh. It's best to keep them in the case when not in use to limit UV exposure.
I liked your friend technique! Could you tell me which dye you used?
It's just inexpensive fabric dye. Aniline dye for wood will work too, but it's much more expensive.
@@twoodfrd
Thanks for the tip, I want to make a project of the Torres Guitar.
@@twoodfrd so true, and the delta cost (difference over time -this one) is bonkers. For dying or cooking skinny long things try an asparagus cooker the horizontal kind. Uses less fluid and dye but takes more space to store. The ornate lids are for presentation and serving, for the picky ones some have a 15 degree tilt to drain the fluid to a recess. That is added in the kitchen after cooking of course.
So you just fabric die ! Transtint wont work !?
thank you