How to Properly Shim a Starter Motor
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- Опубліковано 20 лип 2021
- Understand when and why you might need to shim a starter, then follow our step-by-step instructions for proper starter shimming.
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Host John Gardner is an ASE-certified Master Technician and instructor at Chipola College's Automotive Service Technology Program. - Авто та транспорт
I look up how to shim a starter on UA-cam and homeboy puts a video up that tells you to use the instructions. Epic.
Glad you said this
Feels like I asked my dad a question
😂 I thought that was funny. I’m gonna post one on heart surgery…and I’ll say…. “Go to school”.
This is the ultimate thing I hate.
"when buying a house you need to do your due diligence".
"Hey I am contacting you for information on the house how can I get that?"
"well you need to do your due diligence" (they say in a condescending tone)
"Yeah, I KNOW THAT that's why I am ASKING YOU FOR THE INFORMATIONNNNNNNNN ONNNNNNNNNNN THEEEEEE HOUUSEEEEEEEEEEEEE".
Anytime you contact the government for ANYTHING that is the attitude they will give you, getting information from anyone is like pulling teeth man.
Or anything legal, if you try and look up any law or ask any government representative of ANY kind for information they basically just tell you to get lost.
What is the point of having all this information and telling me it's my responsibility, then giving me no access to that information?????
IDK feels like a SCAM TO ME!!
I really hate doing this, but for a guy who is supposed to be showing us how to properly do it he never showed you how to properly do it and what to look for he said it he stocked some things down in between the starter in the fly wheel teeth but he never actually showed you what he was talking about. Bad bad bad.
I looked this up because I don't have instructions. Don't make a video about shims and say look at the instructions
Ok...here's the second video of "how to shim a starter" with a naked flywheel (no bell housing!). What if I just bought an old Chevy that runs & drives but the starter isn't shimmed right?
I do appreciate the information that you are putting out.. Thank You!
This stumbled on my feed; however, could've saved some time by advising to reference the manual that comes with the starter at the beginning of the video and then end the video
Well ive got four shims between my starter and the block it still gets hung up wtf is goin on
My starter just spins doesn't engage flywheel bench tested bendix and it extends worn bendix or fly wheel ?
Did you get it figured out
My starter on my 454 was working fine for a few years. Then it stop engaging the flywheel. Replaced the starter and same thing. Battery is strong. I’m pretty confused now
Having a 454 cu in is cool, but not being able to start, not cool. Here are a few things to check.
1, Start at the battery. It may test fine, but a voltage drop test on the positive and negative side both should be done.
2, Safety first, but under the car, remove the inspection cover. Have a professional if uncomfortable do this, but check the flex plate (Or ring gear if manual stick trans) but test for lateral runout, bent, defective or installed wrong increases amps, wearing the starter out faster.
3, If a parts store test the starter and finds it bad using normal connections at the solenoid, test it by jumper to the starter motor terminal, this rules out the starter or solenoid.
4, Extended cranking time on a classic with a carbureted big block is not uncommon if sitting for a few weeks. Some carbs leak down fuel from the main jet well that empties fuel from the carburetor. This can be fixed by several methods & may require an overhaul.
4, Heat from close fitting headers require either a wrap or insulated heat shield. Two pieces of sheet metal with mineral wool can be riveted or fashioned to fit between headers and the starter. A neat trick is to weld, cut & expand a spot so a worm clamp can fit one or more header tubes. If done right, no rattle and common on motorcycles.
5, High compression from combustion chamber and piston room (Not Camshaft) can create very high starter loads. You may have to upgrade to a gear-reduction starter. Sorry, but needed.
6, The most over looked item is ground wires and size. This take us to battery, #1. Larger ground wires handle more amps. A stater with small or missing grounds will experience a phenomenon inside the starter motor call “Counter Inductive Force” which it operates at a slower speed and a magnetic field holds the motor back, cooking it from the inside out. Side terminal batteries of any brand can leak into the wire cable. This corrodes the copper inside. A voltage drop test will confirm quickly if this is a problem. It may not sound slow, but a few hundred RPMs are all these fun under a load.
Today, just changing an alternator, battery or starter, many of the test are not done as they were 40-50 years ago. Unfortunately, the tech is doing a disservice to the customer. Rebuilding was done at the shop, today, it’s done is a factory setting with cells or a group of folks rebuilding one starter type. The solenoid is checked by whether is clicks & moves when voltage is applied. In reality, a large amperage load should be placed across the battery terminals of the solenoid when tested and yours can hit 120 amps in-rush current, then drop to 80-90 amps while cranking.
Technical assistance should have the parts manager send the starter in to diagnose the “Root” cause of your repeat failure.
Add more grounds, everywhere. Back end frame of the alternator to the engine. Another ground from engine to frame, frame to cabin, frame to fenders or bed if a truck, and allow for large cables from the battery to starter and ground to frame. Clean a spot with a small sanding disc, use a “Star” washer to dig into metal, cover with dielectric grease during assembly and on top. Wipe off excess, paint! Hope this help! ASE Master Tech since 1978
@@deankay4434 wow that’s a ton of info. Thanks. Turns out it was engaging but turning so easy I didn’t feel it. Track it down to being no compression. I upgraded to roller rocker and 1 piece pushrods. I added too much lash and preload. I backed the locks off 1/2 of turn and regained compression. I then figured I should do it right so I took of the intake and reset the lash and preload and check for compression again. Put everything back together last night and will start it today.
@@deankay4434 absolute legend
@@theshark2804 Remember a voltage drop is done with the circuit on and amperage flowing thru it. In a starter, they pull-in coil moves the solution toward to the flex plate / flywheel. The large current switch at the back and passes current to the field, armature to ground via the engine to the engine, cable back to the battery. When the solenoid large amperage switch to start the engine turning at a 16:1 ratio, a wire soldered to this switch, completes to hold circuit of the solenoid to the larger hold magnetic coil, de-energizes the pull in coil. For decades, carefully take a cheaper flat blade screwdriver and place across the battery terminal (Red Wire) to the starter input terminal usually longer copper with bolt into the starters motor. At this point, you by-pass the solenoid completely and if the cranking motor is good, it will crank over.
To be safe, put the dip stick out and check level. If milky it is antifreeze and head gasket or cracked block. Plug spark plugs if full and smell like fuel if it has a mechanical fuel pump. If the rupture, tank full, the crank case can fill full and keep the rotating assembly from moving. It acts like a bad starter.
@@deankay4434 Same thing is happening with my starter. Got 14v. Fully charged battery with charger. Starter just clicks fast. I took the starter off and bench tested it. Works perfectly fine. Was starting ok before. Started stuttering a few weeks ago. Now just won’t even crank over. Could it be a switch problem? Electrical? I do see what you’re talking about when it comes to the heat though. A bunch of wires running down those headers. I have 1991 Chevy K3500 Dually 4x4. Has a 454. 73,000 miles.
i have a '85 F-150, when i go to crank theres just grinding and no cranking. Issue????
Please call our free tech support hotline for help with your issue: 800-280-2737.
What about grinding/slipping and there is no shims on the starter
add shems
@@belosadity It's already too far away. I have the same problem, no shims, new starter, but I am 1/64th" farther away from the flex plate than the 1/8" recommended separation. I am not going to worry about it as long as it is not too close.
@@parkerd-qp6pn shim the outside bolt only
I just isntalled a new starter and now upon start up it makes a loud gri ding sound.
Did you fix it
@@jonhsmith2706 yes, went back to AutoZone and exchanged it. Works like a dream now. Apparently when these guys rebuild them sometimes they mill the shit out of the surface causing it to not seat properly. Just exchange them until it sits true.
Buy the right stuff you won’t have to shim
That's what I'm wondering... I've changed tons of starter motors and one, never had an issue and two, the bellhousing is always in the way so how are you supposed test the gap to 'shim' the motor housing anyway?
What am I missing, is this just for race motors or something? :-)
That answer my question Muchas Gracias 😊
Cant I use washers?
Most starter shims are .015” in thickness. You’re not going to find readily available washers that are that thin.
My starter stays stuck on the flexplate but when I unbolt it it goes back to original spot
It has been over a year, but your description sounds like it needs shims added. There are many thickness for this job, but only on the small block Chevy. If you have an import or other, some are not adjustable because they use locating rings. Hope this helps, even though a little late.
DK, ASE master tech since 78, retired.
@@deankay4434 lol the engine was completely destroyed, all the rod bearings spun so the starter isn’t a concern anymore
@@chickenfoundation9323 It so funny you say that and here is why. Decades ago, I became and ASE Master while working at a Datsun dealer (Nissan) and they place this cocky kid who was a tool box owner as the service manager. They had just fired a father-son tech team who were flagging each other's tickets. Basically getting paid for work that one didn't do. Months past by and forklift tech lasted a week. The manger was raking me over the coals on a no start on a 1977 280Z. It paid 0.3ths to replace a two terminal oil pressure switch that was open with pressure. 0.3ths for testing oil pressure that led to the EFI relay that needed the ground for the fuel pump to stay on that paid 0.6ths inside left kick panel. So the 1.2 total hours had him confuse and I explained it to him. Did the EFI relay (12 terminals) go bad & burn the oil pressure contacts! You tell me as I didn't take them apart but works after 2.0 of clock time and has not been back in a month. He was arguing 0.3 hr and subtract it. I told him the car would still be here and dead if he was working on it. Well after several 4 letter words, it told him, today is Wednesday and I will be leaving on Friday, I quit. The owner told me if I quit that I would not work anywhere in the city. That tells me exactly what kind of company/person I was working for, got up and left 5 suits in the room. Loaded my tool box, had a job Monday by 11:00 AM for almost twice the money. That Friday, they drove a 260Z running on 5 cylinders and found the two valves on #3 were stuck low. I suggested to pull the head to find out if it needed a valve job as the lash arms had fell off. Could have bent the stems due to lack of maintenance. They said yes. I sit the head on the bench and took my flashlight to find a hole in the middle of the block, with a connecting rod hanging & no cap.
I am done. Pushed the car out, rolled both boxes over the lift, put them in my pickup 1976 D620 and locked, tied and left.
But never seen that ever in seven years plus, they drove it to the dealer, no oil leak, no drips! Just a lonely rod hanging there. Oh yes, I flagged 4.0hrs, took the ticket to the gal upfront, told her, made copy and address to mail my check. I got paid... Crazy!
dude made a vid to tell me to look at the instructions
Awesome video.. ..
Johny is a little bit off on this one....
How to? Read the instructions read no joke