Hi Kurt, well my impressions of the photos you took. For me, personally, anytime you're out with your MP240, I love everything that it does, even the color. Black and white came out fantastic on some of the shots, but the ones that you prefer in black and white, I agree with you. And the ones that you like in color, I have the same feeling. Great to see you using that camera, buddy. I love mine. Very special that you father gave you that lens, unfortunately I never inherited anything in the photography. As my father was born just after 1900, would have liked to have had something he had then. Oh, well, cheers. will be watching out for your next video. Keep well. Cheers.
Thanks Mike! Yes, it’s a special lens for many reasons. When I first started using it shortly after he passed, many years ago now, I could not figure out why my M5 meter would not work. Back then there was no internet to look this stuff up so I called a Leica shop and they told me it was because the rear element prevents the meter from popping up in front of the shutter. Who knew.
With the respect to the picture you asked for comment at 7:55 min I have a similar picture hanging on an a wall in my house and it was shot on b+w so a color-version was out of discussion obviously but I toned it, giving it a blueish cast. I think this an option that is either overlooked or overdone in the digital age but a slight color-cast can really improve an image. I could imagine that digitally toning the image would also work well with the picture in question.
Yes that was an often used technique back in the film days by toning in the print process. Doing it digitally is certainly an option and you are right that it can make a big difference.
Great video, Kirk. I too prefer the colour versions; I like the colours of the reeds and where red oxides have leeched from the ironwork and discoloured the blocks.
Hi Kirk, I like the color photos. I found it very interesting on what you said about focusing area and trying to get the foreground and background in focus. You said that you used F11 aperture. Question: Should we be concerned about using a higher F stop ..... higher than F11 to get more in focus or would diffraction be too problematic. BTW, I have a Fuji Xt4 with a 16-80F4 lens.
Hi Fairstamp, To be honest with you I never felt going to f16 was an issue with diffraction. If you blow the image up to 200 or 300% maybe you can tell but I have never been able to. I have routinely used f13 with the 16-80 and the X-T3 and never had a problem.
Great to see you out and about mate. Man that Elmarit! Fantastic. Man oh man. I hope I get to try this if I'm over your way sometime. I was just out myself and just uploaded the video. Have a great end to your weekend mate. Great video.
Seems like your photography on this outing would have been well served by just using the lens' DOF scale to set the hyperfocal setting. These are the things that have gone away since AF and zoom lenses became the norm, but your 28mm is perfect for this. We use to use one more stop than the setting to assure sharpness is high enough since DOF is basically an acceptable illusion. For example we'd set infinity to the f/8 mark, but set the actual aperture to f/11. I still use this technique on my Fujis with the 16mm f/1.4 and 23mm f/1.4, and this is why I will not "upgrade" to the newer versions.
Fuji 14mm, 16mm & 23mm lenses all have a focus clutch mechanism that permit focusing according to the depth of field scales on each respective lens. Great for street photography & quickest method of pre-setting your focus- negating the need to use autofocus.😊
Hi Kurt, well my impressions of the photos you took. For me, personally, anytime you're out with your MP240, I love everything that it does, even the color. Black and white came out fantastic on some of the shots, but the ones that you prefer in black and white, I agree with you. And the ones that you like in color, I have the same feeling. Great to see you using that camera, buddy. I love mine. Very special that you father gave you that lens, unfortunately I never inherited anything in the photography. As my father was born just after 1900, would have liked to have had something he had then. Oh, well, cheers. will be watching out for your next video. Keep well. Cheers.
Thanks Mike! Yes, it’s a special lens for many reasons. When I first started using it shortly after he passed, many years ago now, I could not figure out why my M5 meter would not work. Back then there was no internet to look this stuff up so I called a Leica shop and they told me it was because the rear element prevents the meter from popping up in front of the shutter. Who knew.
With the respect to the picture you asked for comment at 7:55 min I have a similar picture hanging on an a wall in my house and it was shot on b+w so a color-version was out of discussion obviously but I toned it, giving it a blueish cast. I think this an option that is either overlooked or overdone in the digital age but a slight color-cast can really improve an image. I could imagine that digitally toning the image would also work well with the picture in question.
Yes that was an often used technique back in the film days by toning in the print process. Doing it digitally is certainly an option and you are right that it can make a big difference.
Lightroom has two sliders for that in the b+w section since ver. 6, I think. One for the kind of colour and one for intensity. Easy to try out.
Great video, Kirk. I too prefer the colour versions; I like the colours of the reeds and where red oxides have leeched from the ironwork and discoloured the blocks.
I think I only like one of the B&W ones and here I was looking for B&W.
Hey Kirk, I love these videos where you talk through your thoughts while taking the photos, keep it up!
Thanks I plan on doing more of them.
Hi Kirk, I like the color photos. I found it very interesting on what you said about focusing area and trying to get the foreground and background in focus. You said that you used F11 aperture. Question: Should we be concerned about using a higher F stop ..... higher than F11 to get more in focus or would diffraction be too problematic. BTW, I have a Fuji Xt4 with a 16-80F4 lens.
Hi Fairstamp, To be honest with you I never felt going to f16 was an issue with diffraction. If you blow the image up to 200 or 300% maybe you can tell but I have never been able to. I have routinely used f13 with the 16-80 and the X-T3 and never had a problem.
Wow. This lens is getting more attention now due to the Light Lens Lab remake.
Great to see you out and about mate. Man that Elmarit! Fantastic. Man oh man. I hope I get to try this if I'm over your way sometime. I was just out myself and just uploaded the video. Have a great end to your weekend mate. Great video.
Thanks Colin can’t wait to see it! Yes absolutely I’ll let you try it out.
@@KirkWilliamsonphotography mate we will make that meet up happen. Cheers mate.
Always enjoy a video when Kirk busts out the Leica. I like your B&W images, but I’m biased. That’s all I shoot.
My dream is a Leica Monochrom!
The color is better, by my two cents.
I like the color versions better, really nice color variations and tones you found!
For a few of them me too.
Seems like your photography on this outing would have been well served by just using the lens' DOF scale to set the hyperfocal setting. These are the things that have gone away since AF and zoom lenses became the norm, but your 28mm is perfect for this.
We use to use one more stop than the setting to assure sharpness is high enough since DOF is basically an acceptable illusion. For example we'd set infinity to the f/8 mark, but set the actual aperture to f/11.
I still use this technique on my Fujis with the 16mm f/1.4 and 23mm f/1.4, and this is why I will not "upgrade" to the newer versions.
Albert you are absolutely correct. If I had been paying attention to the DOF scale things would have gone better for that middle shot.
Fuji 14mm, 16mm & 23mm lenses all have a focus clutch mechanism that permit focusing according to the depth of field scales on each respective lens. Great for street photography & quickest method of pre-setting your focus- negating the need to use autofocus.😊