Key to redpoint training - How I trained for one of Australia's hardest routes
Вставка
- Опубліковано 14 сер 2023
- Finding the balance of getting the most out of your training and still climbing well on the weekend can be hard. Hopefully a few of these tips can give you some insight on what you might like to do in your training.
Keep it simple. Enjoy :)
The book I love reading to my daughter amzn.to/3SaTSEx
On the wall climbing shots camera amzn.to/3yn8SHG
Little camera amzn.to/3Pi7WL5
Best mini tripod amzn.to/3ygZhSW
Compact Lightweight tripod amzn.to/3wf0HdQ
My mirrorless amzn.to/3FrWSGH
The lens amzn.to/37qkBuf
Microphone amzn.to/3sjPF6e
For 15% off Awesome Woodys products, use BAFFLEDAYS at checkout
awesomewoodys.com/
Australian Climbing podcast: www.baffledays.com.au
Thank you:
The North Face Australia
Tenaya
Black Diamond Australia
Clif Bar
Chalk Cartel
Awesome Woodys
Thrive Nutrition and Dietetics - Спорт
Thanks Tom, this was very helpful and descriptive! It's always useful when people speak about straightforward training plans honestly that are applied consistently and with intent. Sometimes it seems like there is a lot of chaff out there designed with the intent to sell you something, a certain company who have created a garden trellis comes to mind. This channel and Dave Macleod are two of the best to learn from I think when it comes to honest and useful training advice!
Simple is best I think. It reduces friction and makes what can be an uncomfortable experience (getting pumped, hanging weights off your harness) a bit easier 😀
Good stuff as usual Tom, love the insights!
Thanks mate. Psyched you got something out of it. Always fun to share 😀
Awesome work Tom! Great to hear all the hard work paid off 🙌
Thank you. It was a crazy journey, but awesome to have it done :)
your content never fails to get me incredibly psyched! stoked for the send video :D
Ahh awesome. Psyched to hear that ✌️. Can’t wait to share it with you
really great stuff here ! keep it up dude you're inspiring
Haha thank you. I appreciate that 😀✌️
Always awesome to feed off your psyche! Keep the psyche train rolling!
Psyched to hear you enjoy it mate. Keen to keep the Froth Train rollin’ 😀
Congratulations!! That’s awesome
Thanks mate :)
Absolutely psyched for you Tom! You fucking did it! Really hope the strong ones come over and try it and we can see everyone doing it.
There’s certainly some strong ones here in Aust too. But yes, would be rad to see Aust climbing become part of the outdoor scene for the top global climbers. I think there’s certainly a few more hard projects to make happen
Awesome, awesome video Tom!
Thanks mate. Psyched to hear you enjoyed it ✌️😀
Amazing effort again Tom. Just shows the power of consistency and specificity. You’re a true inspiration mate, on to the next one !
Ahh thanks mate. Yeah a bit of stubbornness and psyche will get you through most things
Never stop uploading videos! They’re too good :)
Haha sounds good! Psyched you enjoy them 😀✌️
Congratulations! That's awesome! And thanks for another well made, super engaging video. I really like that you make it educational as well as fun to watch. Legend!
Ahh thanks Philip. I appreciate that. It's always fun sharing this stuff
great stuff Tom, really cool to see your thinking process that led to the send.
thanks mate. it took a long time to get there. feels good it's all over :)
So sick! Can't wait for the send vid!
Can't wait to get it all together to share :)
Hell yeah man! Hearing that you've sent your project has made me super happy
Thanks mate. It‘s a huge weight off my shoulders haha
Well done; an amazing send for sure. I absolutely loved the breakdown. I’m getting close to sending a PB, so it was great timing, in particular with the mental approach. Staying motivated, and knowing what to train at the right time, in order to keep the self belief and competence to send it, is really tough. Would love to see more videos on this, especially on these shorter routes like this.
Yes, it’s so tricky to get all the pieces lined up for the send. My theory is an analytical flow. Let the process run its course, but be deliberate in the direction. Easier said than done, but just keep doing your best😀
Sick send! Can't wait to see some home wall footage!
Super psyched to share the woody and shed videos. So much coolness to share 😀
This was a great video, really creates a feel for this project and your mentality throughout. Well done again, keep pushing, bro 👏
Thanks mate. Psyched to hear that. ✌️
🎉🎉🎉 congratulations on the send!!!
Love the low key new woody reveal
Haha yep just a little teaser. Can’t wait to finish it off!!
Good stuff Tom! Looking forward to the video/analysis of the project send!
Can’t wait to share everything with you
Dude! Great work, Tom! Looking forward to the send video.
Keep it up :)
Thank you. Can’t wait to share the send vid plus everything else to come 😀
Congrats on the send! Well deserved! And very helpful video, not too detailed, but it helps understand your structure and the reasoning behind it.
Thanks mate. Glad it could add some value for you :)
Good on ya, mate! Enjoyed the video and break down on the approach to slaying the beast.
Haha thank you. It feels great to have it done and start think about new projects 😀
Congratulations 🥳
Thank you ✌️ feels good
Congratulations :) Luv watching your vidoes buddy, keep them coming and stay motivated for the next fat project ;)
Psyched to hear you enjoy them. Thank you. Already on the next projects 😀. The weight off the shoulders having done it is awesome. So many more things I want to climb
Love how specific this is!
You’re super strong but I feel like I can still learn a lot from you, so thanks :)
Awesome :). Glad you're getting something out of it. It's fun to share it :)
Congrats on the send! Finish up that board fast, I love the spray wall content :)
Haha I can’t wait to get the board finished. Its so close!
On ya Tom. Excellent news and I love self analysis of your training plan.
Awesome. Psyched to hear you enjoyed it mate
Awesome stuff 👍👍
Glad you like it 😀
Incredible achievement Tom. Thanks for representing Aussie climbing.
Haha thanks. Just having fun and share the journey 😀
Congrats, keen to see the video! Also, would be cool to see a home board setting / building / setup video!
Definitely a few of them on the way 🥳
Congrats buddy!!!
Thanks 😀
Congratulations and amazing work getting the send Tom. As always... great, practical, down to earth advice!
PS: Having done an FFA this year that really pushed me, your comment on having no perspective or reference point on the grade hit home. What-ever grade Hump Of Trouble ends up being, stoked to see the sport getting pushed forward in Aus. 👏
Thanks mate. What a rollercoaster that experience is hey. So rewarding though :)
I love that you included TRX in a mega practical way.
I love the TRX for how practical and versatile they are. The best
Legend.... Great stuff
Thanks mate ✌️😀
Awesome.
Thanks 😀✌️
I used to do those reach throughs years ago, so good for steep routes.
This send footy has got to be the most anticipated 60 seconds in Australian climbing history!
Haha that’s a funny concept. So keen to share it. Hopefully just a few weeks away
It’s great to see how you trained to get this done!
Glad you enjoyed 😀✌️
@@TomOHalloranAus helpful in how to structure my training 👍🏽 I’d love to take some shots of you on the route
Solid as always large man
Haha cheers. Glad you enjoyed ✌️
🎉 Congratulations on the send!! Looking forward to new board content too! What does a rest day actually look like for you? Is it important for you to strictly do nothing climbing related or is it supplemental training etc…
Yep, nothing. This is partly intentional to just have a switch off and rest. And partly necessary because of after school activities with my daughter, spending undistracted time with my partner and just generally keeping normal life running smoothly. I like balance.
Congrats! I like the point of simplicity. I feel like there's a lot of over scientific (and pseudo-scientific) stuff going on in the climbing community. And the main takeaway I'm seeing is to train specifically for your project. I haven't been trying super hard this season nor do I have an ongoing project (except a spray wall proj I put down), but this was useful as I have been struggling with the balance feeling like I'm wasting money not going to the gym and losing strength versus not getting out to the crag/fatigue as I have shown up with sore arms this season. Looking forward to the board vid, cheers!
Yep, simple is best. And I totally get you on the balance of time on cliff vs training. It’s tricky. Good luck finding it 😀. My go to is ‘if the weathers good, go climbing’
Hey Tom, thanks for the great content. I was wondering if you did any climbing exercises/ prehrab/rehab on your rest days. Thanks again.
Thanks. Glad you enjoy it 😀. Nope, nothing extra on rest days. It’s a rest day 😀
Good looking route, always hoped you would get it, smart thinking got you the route in the end, as you said, spinal erectors, body tension, must've payed factor, couple that with having to move really well.
Thanks mate. Yeah a combination of all of it coming together. Then when it did, it feels easy haha
@@TomOHalloranAus bet you were glad, still you gotta find another one now!
There’s too many one the ‘up next’ list 😀🙈
Fully buzzin!! Fully f*ing buzzin!!! Good insight into the process too. What was the deciding trigger that made you switch? Achieved benchmark, or ‘only X days left’? Something like that?
Thanks mate. No trigger really, just happened to be the day. Just pulled on, felt good and went to the top haha
@@TomOHalloranAus Sorry, I meant when you decided to switch to RP attempts from the ground.
@@joolsgrommers1466 ahh, im not sure really. I was going for link sections, then it just became apparent that I should just start seeing how far I could go. it would've been half way through season 2. season 1 was almost entirely beta finding.
Awesome bruh!! Where is that sick spray wall??
It’s the local community training wall. Blackheath Bouldering.
Awesome video and I like your honesty, that you don't know which grade it is and asked for "help" from Schubert, Megos or Ondra.
But anyway, congrats for finishing your longterm project.🎉👍
P.S. I can come over and fail for the next 29 years, if it helps? 😉
Haha it may help. Worth a shot probably :)
Cheers Tom! Have you tried Ryan's new proposed 36? And if so are you able to confidently say Hump might be harder?
Congrats on the send!!
I haven’t yet. Would love to though. We spoken about the two routes. Be psyched to see him on Hump of Trouble.
This is awesome to see in-season training! I feel like often times that part of the equation is left out of most climber's explanation of training. If you were climbing 2 days on the project over a given week, what would the make-up and focus of the week look like?
Same thing. Not complicated. Early stages one day is ‘training’ on the route. Run laps on sections, feel tired from a big session earlier in the week. Another day is high quality of proper link attemptsz Even if you’re not up to big links, trying to just climb well in it is great. Then when you’re close, high quality attempts feeling fresh. Reduce the mega sessions so you’re not as fatigued and give the proj everything 😀
What a beast
Haha I wish 😀✌️
Good effort and a very empirical training regime. You could go over to Europe and try their grades and compare ?
Would love to get over again sometime soon. But between work and other bits, it gets tricky to find the time 😀
Congrats on the send!
How's the 50 X 26+ routes goal tracking?
I’ll have to check, but I’m on track. Halfway through the year and done about 26 I think? Now that this is over, I have plenty more days freed up for other climbing. I’ve loved the challenge so much
ze man ze legend
Haha not so. Just having a go 😀
is that 2nd board session considered your capacity session? Congrats on the send been watching your channel for a bit now!
no. the 15-25 moves session is my capacity/endurance session. the second board session is a bit more about power drain than forearm drain
Yeah. I re watched that part just now not sure how I missed that. Thanks tons of good info in this one! @@TomOHalloranAus
Props on the send, well done 👊🏼
Is your new wall about 63°?? 🤔
Thanks mate. Super psyched! Board is 46 degrees
@@TomOHalloranAus Nice. It looks a lot steeper than 46°. Half of my wall is 47°. I went for a 45° but my carpentry skills aren't quite there 😁
Haha I actually thought the same when I set the camera up. ‘Gee that looks steep!’ Haha yeah I was aiming for 45, but doing it myself made it tricky, plus there was a thing in the way in the roof where I was fixing it off too. Gave me little option haha
Did you fully construct that board on your own or is is a prebuilt thing you just have to assemble? I’d like to make my own but the bolt spacing seems like it might be a pain in the ass to get perfect…. 😅
I've made it myself. Bolt spacing is easy. Use a chalk string line to mark out, then drill. My spacings are 200m apart horizontal. 100mm apart vertical
How long till we get to see the send mate?!?! Suspense is killing me
Hahah tell me about it. It’s coming. Life, work etc has gotten in the way for the last weeks. Hopefully you won’t need to wait much longer
will this training program work for my 7a project as well? ...
Worth a shot. There truly isn’t much difference between a training for 9a vs 7a. Gradual overload of relevant stimulus. Pretty simple 😀
How did you train to cope with all that short-roping? 🙃
It’s the nature of very fast clips. If the rope were there ready to go and I fell, I’d deck.
Do you not reccomend to climb/train every day?
Not really, no. Going hard too many days in a row will lead to injury. Doing something everyday that’s sustainable is potentially a waste of time and skin because you may be able to achieve the same result from half as much time. Plus I and I’m sure many others, have way too many other commitments in general life to be able to even have the time to train everyday
@@TomOHalloranAus thanks for the reply, gold luck for your climbing projects 💪🏼
I think you mean "Pink point" with preplaced protection (draws)
haha sure :). that would be technically accurate
@@TomOHalloranAus It's an ongoing debate, but "pinkpoint" is considered outdated by some. Ondra (and other elite climbers) are counting onsights with pre-placed draws so I think redpoint is fine.