HI Lorraine, In your embroidery screen there is a needle icon with a + and - sign by it. Click that, then advance to the first stitch, or last stitch if reversed to see if the starting point. If you have a Luminaire or Solaris you can use the projector to line things up. I hope this helps. Barbara.
This edge to edge quilting is such a game changer for making beautiful quilts! Thank you so much for creating this new method for all of us to be able to quilt our projects. I love it and it works even better with the magnetic monster hoop…..worth the investment to get one.
how do you print out your template??? This was super helpful in aligning the designs up. Thank you. I'm very new to this and my new Brother NQ3550W, Love it!
If you’re starting at the top center of your quilt with side A, when finished do you go back to the top or would you start at the bottom and work back up for the B sides?
Thanks so much for a wonderful tutorial. I have a question, I would like edge to edge quilt on the background fabric then applique over top the design and background fabric. Is that order that should be done, I do not want the edge to edge design to stitch over the applique? Sure appreciate that I can ask a question!
You should do the edge to edge first. since it's a single line then it will not be too bulky to cover. Overwise you would have to edit the design in software. I hope that helps!
Flipping the same template for A & B does not line up. Even though the designs are the same, the start and stop points are different on the A and B. I watched your video as a refresher before working on a gift quilt and thought using the same template and rotating 90 degrees would be a time saver. Instead it was a painful and disappointing nightmare! Stitching out both templates and rotating between them on each row, as it states in the book to do, works out much better. So if you are having a hard time lining up designs using only one and rotating, try using both designs and see if that helps.....in my personal opinion and experience, it does.............
Hi Robin! Thank you for asking. We sent this information to Mark at Amelie Scott, and this is the response: Barbara - thanks for reaching out. I watched the demo video again, and I see where the confusion came in. Sadly, in the demo, Christine neglected to mention something: with Pfaff, Viking, Husquvarna (and maybe Singer) machines, you MUST create separate A and B templates. Christine was demonstrating on her BERNINA, so she took a shortcut that she explains in much more detail in our Academy class (and, Christine had been doing a lot of Academy teaching, so it must have just slipped her mind when she recorded the demonstration video). So… for a short answer, the customer is right: follow the instructions in the book when it comes to templates. The book says to create separate A and B templates, and you can’t go wrong that way. For anyone else who notices that Christine is rotating a single template, here’s a brief statement: with BERNINA, Baby Lock, Brother, and Janome machines, the center of the stitch field is in the center of the hoop, so you can stitch one physical template and use it for both the A and B files. Sorry that we didn’t give a good explanation of that “short cut” in the demonstration video. I hope this helps. - Mark
I’d like a little bit more info when doing columns first. It’s about the spacing going down the column - is it up to the quilter to determine how much space to leave when starting (say the A column) again or is there some measurement that is the better way when starting the next design? Hope I’m being clear in my question. I have Viking and also BabyLock sewing/embroidery machines but just haven’t gotten back into embroidery since a few years before Covid. And I do have a nice library of Kimberbell designs that. are still brand new🥴. Thanks. Great video % I understand now.
I think you are using a baby lock machine please show adjustments on your machine when adjusting your needle. I am new at this.
HI Lorraine, In your embroidery screen there is a needle icon with a + and - sign by it. Click that, then advance to the first stitch, or last stitch if reversed to see if the starting point. If you have a Luminaire or Solaris you can use the projector to line things up.
I hope this helps. Barbara.
This edge to edge quilting is such a game changer for making beautiful quilts! Thank you so much for creating this new method for all of us to be able to quilt our projects. I love it and it works even better with the magnetic monster hoop…..worth the investment to get one.
I totally agree!
The best video I have seen on explaining how to do edge to edge, thank u x
Thank you for watching, Angela!
I like the idea of stitching design on stabilizer. Easier to reuse than sticky stabilizer.
how do you print out your template??? This was super helpful in aligning the designs up. Thank you. I'm very new to this and my new Brother NQ3550W, Love it!
If you’re starting at the top center of your quilt with side A, when finished do you go back to the top or would you start at the bottom and work back up for the B sides?
What paper are you using, pls
DIME Print and Stick Target Paper: www.allbrands.com/products/59540-dime-pstp01-print-and-stick-target-paper-25-sheets
Thanks so much for a wonderful tutorial. I have a question, I would like edge to edge quilt on the background fabric then applique over top the design and background fabric. Is that order that should be done, I do not want the edge to edge design to stitch over the applique? Sure appreciate that I can ask a question!
You should do the edge to edge first. since it's a single line then it will not be too bulky to cover. Overwise you would have to edit the design in software. I hope that helps!
Be much easier if you use neutral frabic and colored thread to be ably to see
Hi Margaret, thanks for the feedback! We'll keep this in mind for future demonstrations.
Brilliant tutorial. Thank you. ❤
Do I sew all the way down the quilt then go to B? Or do I just use as large as my hoop is and go across??
You work from the middle to the right in Columns starting with a column A, then connecting column B.
Ty for Brother machine tip!!
Flipping the same template for A & B does not line up. Even though the designs are the same, the start and stop points are different on the A and B. I watched your video as a refresher before working on a gift quilt and thought using the same template and rotating 90 degrees would be a time saver. Instead it was a painful and disappointing nightmare! Stitching out both templates and rotating between them on each row, as it states in the book to do, works out much better. So if you are having a hard time lining up designs using only one and rotating, try using both designs and see if that helps.....in my personal opinion and experience, it does.............
Hi Robin! Thank you for asking. We sent this information to Mark at Amelie Scott, and this is the response: Barbara - thanks for reaching out.
I watched the demo video again, and I see where the confusion came in. Sadly, in the demo, Christine neglected to mention something: with Pfaff, Viking, Husquvarna (and maybe Singer) machines, you MUST create separate A and B templates. Christine was demonstrating on her BERNINA, so she took a shortcut that she explains in much more detail in our Academy class (and, Christine had been doing a lot of Academy teaching, so it must have just slipped her mind when she recorded the demonstration video).
So… for a short answer, the customer is right: follow the instructions in the book when it comes to templates. The book says to create separate A and B templates, and you can’t go wrong that way.
For anyone else who notices that Christine is rotating a single template, here’s a brief statement: with BERNINA, Baby Lock, Brother, and Janome machines, the center of the stitch field is in the center of the hoop, so you can stitch one physical template and use it for both the A and B files. Sorry that we didn’t give a good explanation of that “short cut” in the demonstration video.
I hope this helps.
- Mark
Does this stitching for A and B template, only if you have these machines applies to ALL END TO END QUILTING DESIGNS?
I’d like a little bit more info when doing columns first. It’s about the spacing going down the column - is it up to the quilter to determine how much space to leave when starting (say the A column) again or is there some measurement that is the better way when starting the next design? Hope I’m being clear in my question. I have Viking and also BabyLock sewing/embroidery machines but just haven’t gotten back into embroidery since a few years before Covid. And I do have a nice library of Kimberbell designs that. are still brand new🥴. Thanks. Great video % I understand now.
Do you let the design run off the quilt at the end of the row?
Yes! Make sure you have enough backing on the back side to compensate for the designs hanging off the edge.
You are an excellent teacher! Thank you!
You're very welcome!
❤
How do I figure out what size hoop to use? Thank you
Hi Karen, I like using the largest size available for my machine when doing in the hoop. Barbara.
Love it ❤
What number is the template? From Michigan
Hi Connie, the template she's using is the fifth one in Expansion Pack 5.
Do you bring up the bobbin thread at the ending point?
Hi Karen, yes. Definitely bring it up at the end and then you can bury it.
Great demonstration! Thank you
Of course! We're so glad it was helpful 😊
The best tutorial I have seen on how to do edge to edge.Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Great Information!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you. This was the best video I have seen since starting to learn.
Glad it was helpful!