Razer DeathAdder Elite Gaming Mouse - Main Switch Replacement
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- Опубліковано 23 вер 2024
- Working on a Razer model RZ01-0201 wired gaming mouse. Disassembly, where the screws are hidden. Switch replacement. Assembly, reusing the mouse slide feet.
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Thank you very much for the guide, I did this with my deathadder Elite and found that the easiest way to get to the screws was to push down hard on the plastic above it with a screwdriver. (yes this will leave permanent holes) Also, I couldn't get the D2FC-F-7N in a timely manner and opted for the Omron D2F-F, which worked after sanding down the inside of the mouse button a fair bit.
Very nice, it would be nice if the switch sizes were more standard.
I couldn't find that third screw, thanks ! You helped me give some time back to a mouse I thought was junk ;)
They are being sneaky.
When a mouse microswitch exhibits flakey clicks but still has decent mechanical clicking action then the contacts just need to be cleaned with contact cleaner such as Deoxit. I got my 4 Logitech Trackman Marble mice clicking properly again by using Deoxit on the offending switches. The microswitches in these things are half the size of switches in other mice and removing the top piece is quite difficult to do without breaking the tabs because the plastic is very hard and the fit tolerance between the top and bottom is tight. I also don't have a microscope to aid in this. At 55 the peepers ain't what they used to be.
You could introduce contact cleaner into the tiny gaps around the small actuator on top but that will be pretty tedious. I chose to get a pin vise (small handheld drill bit driver) and a 5/64" split point drill bit to drill a hole into one side of the top piece. The split point will help keep the bit from walking while trying to start the hole. Initially you need to apply good pressure on the bit just until a divot forms in the plastic. Then use only slight pressure after that or you risk suddenly poking through the cover and damaging the internals. You have to take this slowly and when you feel the drill bit grab a little it means you're about to pop through the side wall. This is where you need to hold back on the pin vise while turning to clear out the plastic "chips" from the inside of the hole and so that the bit doesn't crash into the internal parts.
The hole makes it much easier to introduce 3 or 4 drops of Deoxit into the switch. 3 or 4 drops is a lot for these switches but I wasn't confident one drop would be enough to make it to the contact points. It will easily wick into the hole. I only had a very small tube of it but it also comes in a plastic bottle that includes a thin needle applicator that would work better than the small tube I had. The Deoxit will start to wick out of all gaps on the switch. Just wipe off with tissue or paper towel.
Yea I should have tried some of the Deoxit. That stuff is really good. Thanks.
i really liked this video, there are lots of low quality videos out there with a lot of views for some reason yours is high quality but hard to find! maybe the thumbnail and the title might be the problem, also mine suddenly started turning on and off which causes me to instantly order a replacement cable but i came here to see how to place the sliders and how to assemble it because i forgot :)
Thanks. I've been trying to work on the thumbnails a bit. I think I'm getting a little better at it.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 maybe if you go to a known UA-camr like electroboom and you start analysing his thumbnails since he started UA-cam and when did the views started to go up and what changes he did to the thumbnail like font, focus, colors etc it would help you
That's a great idea. There are several channels I watch that have been around a long time.
Nice video! I just bought a used one so I'm preparing for repairing :D You deserve more views!
I think I have to learn to do a better job of making a thumbnail. Hope your mouse turns out good. thanks.
Just use a Hair-Dryer to make the adhesive loose on the mouse slides, works like a charm every time
Great tip, thanks.
cool vid, great funky voiceover. Will try to replace this with my pops.
Thanks and good luck.
I changed mine and it worked for about 10 clicks then the right button stopped working and the left button started clicking both left/right at the same time. Resoldered it and it did the same thing, worked for about 10 clicks then spazzed out clocking both left/right randomly. Not sure what going on. Made sure not to over heat anything when using the iron. Any ideas??
Check the clearance from the top of the switch button to the button on the mouse. Make sure the switch button is not almost depressed in the resting state. I've seen slight differences in switch height cause some problems.
09:10 the wheel is keyed, it only fits 2 ways?😀
Yes, it has small flats on both sides of the shaft, so it can fit two ways.
Thank you man, I have the third Razer Mouse now with broken switches (that white mouse from 2010 or so.. pro click? another death adder v1 and now the death adder v2) - I have even switched rightclick with leftclick and still the left MTB breaks :D not sure why, maybe my index finger is just very heavy^^
There does seem to be a bit of a difference in the quality of the switches. I think the Omron ones made in Japan are supposed to be very nice; I'm just not sure how to tell which ones are which when ordering.
The switch on the left mouse button broke on my razer deathadder v2, I don't have soldering iron that's the problem so I just bought a new mouse, it's cheaper than buying everything needed. Although it was sure interesting to watch how it's done :)
Glad you watched, and thanks for the comment.
Was thinking about self-repairing my deathadder, but I dont think its worth getting all the tools to replace the switches...Guess I gotta buy a new one. Just seems to be a waste of material, when replacing the switch would add years of life to it. Thanks for the indepth video tho, great stuff
Yes, kinda like needs to be something you want to do. Or to make a video about it. Thanks for the comment and watching.
Just be careful it is a common flaw I've gone through 4 in the last year. At this point I could have bought all the tools.
Mi ratón acaba de morir, se dió un golpe y ya no reconoce el USB el ordenador. Lo he desarmado pero es como si un mono mirase el motor de un coche, todo parece que está en su sitio pero no funciona...
If it was a physical impact. Most you can do is look for a broken wire or a part that is loose from the pc board. If the computer is not even seeing the mouse being plugged in. Really look over the cable well. Where the cable connects to the pc board would be a place to really inspect.
I'm tempted to cut holes to extract the screws rather than remove the whole button-end rubber pad. If it feels like they need to go back in, I could likely glue them in place and lightly sand anything that sits proud.
I think that would fine. Save a bunch of time.
Shid why didnt i think of cutting , dang it i already peeled boths ends a little to accsess the screws not thevwhole thing but both ends . Ill try to put em back but if not ill cut the ends off should be fine ,balance and movement wise
really well put together video. thank u
Much appreciated!
Please tell me what kind of tape was used to restore the skates, preferably the model and thickness and width, thank you in advance
3M 4950 VHB tape. What I used was 3/4 inch wide and it's 0.045 inch thick. Wider would be better and they do make thinner and I think that would be better.
10:03 Realizes he jerked the connector seating right off the board during removal and smooths that over by complimenting Razer on having one. Why admit it. Nobody saw that right? LOL. Razer forcing you to remove the glide pads in order to service the mouse is a sad commentary on our disposable mindset today. Here lies the Human Race: They paved Paradise and put up a parking lot.
Wow, you were paying close attention to the video. Yea they didn't ever have any intent for it to be pulled apart. Thanks for the comment, I do appreciate it.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 the connector has a plastic base that is supposed to remain on the board, not be pulled off like an animal with mitts. Sorry man I was paying attention. Thug Cable life. which is why IN THE VIDEO you pull it apart, reseat it and then plug the cable side back into it. CANT. MAKE. IT. UP.
great video. what model/brand is that welder?
The vacuum desoldering gun is a Hakko 470. The soldering iron is a Hakko FX-951. The desoldering gun is very old but still works quite well.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thanks!!
Is it possible to install deathadder v3 pcb on this mouse? good video thank you.
I do not know, sorry.
Hello, i am here again and i am going to buy switches for my mouse, but i cant find out them. Can you send me link, where you bought these?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KJ5WGSZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1 And there still in stock months later, that seems to be rare these days.
D2FC-F-7N are these switches suitable for Razer DeathAdder V2 mini?
I don't know.
thanks for reply. I bought @@metalplasticelectronics354 . if it works . I 'll tell
yes
@@khongaibiecdi2454 thank you buddy
Can i change razer deathadder v2's switches for mechanical switches like omron?
I don't know what kind of switches are in the deathadder v2. But would probably have to be the same type to fit and work properly.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 optical switches v1
I'll look them up. Have you taken it apart? If so how many leads are on the switch?
Hey homie, actually my dog chewed out my mouse wire and I wanna replace it. Can you please help 😢😢
Should be able to replace the cable with almost any USB cable as long as it's not a charge only.
Are the switches fixable?
I would doubt trying to get some contact cleaner in the switch would do much. It might help some, but probably the contacts are just worn out.
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