Volvo Fuel Pressure (ECM-2900 / P0089) - Diagnosis
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- Опубліковано 9 жов 2020
- It's EURO TIME!
Customer just bought this sweet sleeper 2008 Volvo S60 Turbo for cheap.
Car is in nice shape, but the Check Engine light is on.
Codes are ECM-2900/P0089 - Fuel Pressure: Faulty Signal.
Takes a bit of research to understand WHY this code is setting, and which parts need to be replaced.
LAUNCH X431V PRO:
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Enjoy!
Ivan - Авто та транспорт
First thing I would honestly do is go to junk yard and pull a fuel rail sensor and retest with an OEM sensor.
Second thing I would do is check ViDA (get older cracked version included with knock off DiCE connector) for any recalibration options. Possible because expecting one value and seeing another value outside of that range that it is running some default strategy and could go to explaining why 3
Separate codes for same thing.
3rd have to understand Volvo’s logic and why.. yes, to anyone less familar it’s complicated but once understand why Volvos do what they do (remember safety) you start appreciating things more. You typically gets failure warnings and alerts before something dies or leaves you stranded and long before it fails because using an algorithm to work that out so get notified well in advanced that hey something isn’t going to last. If this truely a fuel pump issue, it’s warning you well before it’s actually failing it’s seeing warning signs of failure, or seeing symptoms that fuel pump may be stressed. Problem is on older Volvos finding out it’s fuel pump can mean have to replace sensor with a known good OEM one. Have to rule out sensor and have to rule out any poor calibration. On P3 Volvos this is lesser so, it tell you straight up if it’s algorithm based failure or a hard fault with sensor or whatever. Algorithm based failures tend to mean it’s beginning to see signs of problems within that system.. if I got a fail delivery system algorithm failure Then probably safe to assume pump is overworking and under delivering even if u have no issues going full throttle. it’s not enough to set a trouble light but enough to fire off a DTC for you to check with P3 Volvos, typically.
This particular fuel control issue is complicated but solvable with the time and persistence Ivan is putting into it. Great job Ivan.
Ivan, I subscribe to your channel (as well as a few others) to learn. Your attention to detail makes you a superb teacher. Knowing 'why' is how you learn and you walk us through the 'why' every time. Thank you, Ivan.
Thank you so much for the kind words Dave!
Had a '93 Ford. Driving in high heat with AC on, slow down for something, engine would stall. Let it cool, start back up.
First time it happened, had it towed to a dealer. Well, it had cooled down and they couldn't find the issue. I got rid of the car. Now, I think I could have fixed it, thanks to videos like these. Never had it stall in cool/cold weather.
At one point, I was going to drop the fuel tank, but thanks to Minnesota locktite, the fasteners were rusted solid!
Truly amazing! Every mechanic on UA-cam should learn how to provide this level of quality content! Thanks again for helping us
Good job Ivan, If the pressure was okay, then I was leaning foward restrictions, filter, kinked line etc...You did real good on direct power/ground to prove it's not voltage related...110% Confirmed!
I have been a year debugging my 2007 XC70 P0089 code, and have arrived at replacing the pump. Someone else had a "connect a string or wire" warning before pulling the cable free. You might want to edit the video, and insert the note before pulling the pump. I AM GRATEFUL.
Rather neat that it gives an early warning of a fuel pump problem, rather than waiting until the pump gets to the point where it causes running issues. Of course you need the right tools and the right mind set to work out what is going on. 😉 Without those two things you end up chucking a new fuel pressure sensor at it, like the previous guy did. Nicely diagnosed, Ivan.
Thank you Ivan. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week to you and your family.
I expected the fuel filter to listed as a possible cause, and still not convinced it couldn't be responsible for the code but wow that ECM is really paying attention to the pressure, great diag looking forward to the fix
Great job as usual! Is it just my notifications or just Coincidence that you and Eric put a video out at 6:01 am..love it
Love the diagnostic process! Can't wait for the repair video! :)
Thanks for the case study! ive diagnosed this code before on a XC90, it had a bad pump. I jumped the fuel pump at the control module and found only 55psi, spec was 85-90. This case study has good info about the ecm full fielding the pump on start up, next time i will just use the scanner and watch the command and actual psi with my gauge, i always learn something helpfull from your videos!
Yup this one can be diagnosed from the driver's seat with some experience 😁
Just install a fuel pressure bypass button. The Genie logic!
Extreme diagnostician!!! Diagnostic is so important. But I’m not good like you haha. I saved some of my family money and customers. I even saved my Stepdad’s BMW from tearing apart. Nice diagnostic, Ivan 👍🏼. Can’t wait for part 2.
Wow, very nice diagnosis and research on this old Volvo. Good explanation. Thanks!! Great video!
Very good ,can't wait until the next one. Cheers.
Cant wait for part 2 Ivan!!!
every time you or someone says "Freeze Frame" "J. Geils band" starts playing in my head, of course I was a wee peanut when it came out, so I heard it lots when young and impressionable :))
Good times! I sure miss those days. Legendary band. 🤘
Anything over 35% duty cycle on pump you will get code. Neat thing about that car is you have a shader valve before the filter and at rail, nice and easy to check for plugged filter
Thanks for analyzing this code what final lead to my own research on a Volvo V70 T5. Using VIDA in Graph mode you see at START the requested fuel pressure is set to 480 KPa. Pump cycle is set at 100% to reach this, if the pump fails the code 2900 is directly set. After start the requested pressure drops to 400 KPa, in my case the duty cycle drops to 63%. At that point all seems functioning normal however a new pump that reaches >480 KPa is needed although I am driving on LPG.
Nice diagnostic Ivan!
going for lay down to rest my brain after watching your videos, iam having nightmares of squiggly red and green lines enjoyed video.
Pretty Cool Logic. This way, you have some warning that the fuel pump needs an 'intervention' and you can confront it before it completely self-destructs and leaves its loved ones hoofin' it. While it may feel that the FPCM and the ECU are rattin' it out in the short run, it should see the big picture and be grateful when it gets back on the straight and narrow.
I've been living with the sane code in my V50 for about 5 years. It comes and goes but more frequent in cold weather. Other V50 owners I've talked to who tried to fix it with new pump (filter built into pump), controller, sensor, etc had no luck.
Would be a good case study 😁
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics If only you were closer lol. I'm no longer concerned about it and have been looking at newer V60's to replace it.
Thing should go pretty good with a new pump in there! Those little turbos rip! Alot of fun, but I'd never own one. I'm just amazed at the quality nosedive after 1995. Complexity went WAY up, quality, way down. I deliver alot of these cars from '04 to '17, and the problems on the newer ones are astounding. Little things that would drive you nuts, like power window failures, no A/C due to electrical gremlins, etc., along with bigger problems like misfires, oil leaks, transmissions wigging out electronically, etc... Unheard of in the 90's. They did away with the engine oil dipstick on the newer ones, too! Can only check the oil electronically through the cluster! What could possibly go wrong there in 5 years, LOL! Just amazing.
I'm gonna pick up part 2 in the morning. Been a long day! I don't need to be head-bobbing when there's things to learn here! :D After part 2, I'll be doing a belt, tensioner, and alternator clutch (1st time dealing with THAT!) on a '11 Nissan Rogue. Hopefully an easy day tomorrow!
First time I have seen a car with a "primary" and "booster" fuel pumps ! The point of "returnless" fuel systems was to prevent fuel from being heated by the engine and then returning to the tank during extended idles. "Hot" fuel vaporizes and then the carbon canister and purge system have to deal with it.
One proposal for an alternative to returnless fuel system (back when they were trying figure out what was best/cheapest) was a FLOW switch in the return line (yes, the mechanical pressure regulator was kept). If the return flow was high, a dropping resistor was switched in (via a relay) to the FP feed. When the return flow was too low, the resistor was switched out. Seemed like a good idea to me. The flow switch, relay, dropping resistor and mechanical pressure regulator had to be cheaper that a pressure sensor and (yet another) electronic module and on this car 2 fuel pumps.
I love and appreciate your great, well considered and instructive videos. Keep up the terrific productions.
Any idea why I get a 6V reading from the 5V reference signal at the fuel pump? I am getting continual P089 (fuel pressure sensor) and ECU 2900 TDC's on my 2006 V70 AWD (2.5 L turbo, automatic). I've replaced the FPsensor, fuel pump and PEM (fuel pressure control module- used, supposedly good...). No change. The car drives perfectly- until it doesn't. After some driving (sometimes minutes; other times, hours) upon acceleration, it hesitates, misfires, looses power and may stall. I pull over and wait or shut it off. It starts right up and drives perfectly, until the next event. It's crazy making... . Duty cycle at idle shows 50% (should be 35%+/-). Thoughts? Thx.
Thank you for a great diagnostic video. Thumbs up
Thanks Ivan, great process as usual. Just curious where you got the 80psi spec for full load on pump?
Nice diag Ivan!
Thorough diagnosis.
In a way good design by Volvo. Gives an early warning on a wearing out fuel pump before drivability issues arise.
Very interesting fuel system, especially with two pump motors. I have had fuel filters be plugged up enough to drop the fuel volume. My third owner F250 with 170k on it still has the original Motorcraft filter on it. Fuel pressure was good, until you mashed the petal. Obviously, the Ford has a bypass return, but a bad filter will do it. However, I've never ran into a bad filter until I have had to replace a leaking tank.
Your best friend in this situation is a test drive uphill at full throttle, you are consuming more fuel at the injectors so the pressure discrepancy should be more pronounced, maybe you'll get as low as 50 psi actual fuel pressure (35.3 psig) because you are demanding both pressure and flow rate from the pump, not just pressurizing at idle. However, you got to a good conclusion by showing that the pump had to work 100% duty cycle just to provide the flow rate at idle, so you still made a very effective diagnosis.
I was thinking maybe fuel filter too but when you put full 12 volts and ground to it and didn't get full psi, yeah most likely pump is failing. Always nice to see when someone else has already been in there probing/poking wires, then not even sealing them back up with liquid electrical tape or anything, great way for wires to start corroding. I was thinking too, if you knew the specs. you could try doing a volume test to see how much gas is pumped in a certain amount of time.
The car will have a saddle fuel tank one fuel pump is a scavenge pump that transfers fuel from one side of the tank to the side with the main pressure pump. On similar systems in other manufacturers a faulty leaking in-tank fuel filter assembly can cause similar issue but that usually show as a crank no start or prolonged crank time.
volvo, volvno. just say no =p
Just like the newer Ford Mustangs. That one has a split sending unit for the fuel gauge. Ridiculous design. The left sender reads from E to 1/2 tank, while the other sender covers 1/2 to full. More unnecessary complexity and failures there. At least you can access the pump and sender assemblies from inside the car. Wish GM would get that memo! If the tank has to come out, the driveshaft does too on that model. A big deal on jacks and jackstands ... on a trailer! Ask me how I know ... :D
Hello Smitty are you referring to the Volvo sending unit left side 1/2 to empty right side Full to 1/3 a tank? Thanks in advance
I was hoping to see current ramps on both motors in the pump assembly. Curious if the constantly powered motor/pump isn't working properly, making the pwm controlled pump not able to keep up. I'm thinking the first motor creates a base flow/pressure, and the second motor is pwm to actually control final output pressure (not designed to work entirely on its own.) Some comments said the constant motor is a transfer pump, but why would that be running constant? I'd imagine that would be float controlled. Kind of thinking the entire assembly comes with both motors so it's a silly point anyway. Can't wait to see the second video!
I'm guessing a clogged fuel filter contributed to the pump's demise. The 14 year old filter I changed Wednesday on the Expedition was filled with rusty ethanol inspired goo. Very humid air + ethanol = water for rusting.
Could it be the over pressure relief valve in the top of the pump is leaking and robbing forward flow ( and pressure)? Net result is the same , needs a fuel pump as relief valves are not usually repairable. Love your channel!
I’ve done many of these s60 fuel pressure problems, very odd fuel pump system. Had one loose pressure only on right turns.... fuel pump siphons fuel from left side of tank and fills up right side where pump lives... also had one green crusty plug on the module in the back right under side. Never had an aftermarket pump last over a month only oem and it’s not cheap
Same year and mileage with P0089. I don’t have that pro scanner to see if my fuel pump duty cycle is too high at initial start up. The freeze frame shown is almost identical to what I have. I will just change the pump since it will cost just as much for a professional diagnosis. I will do parts cannon after all it is a 15year old pump. Thanks for the video.
I can’t figure it out either!
Ivan, this has nothing to do with this video, but which version of "Deoxit" do you use? I just bought a Buick Enclave and it has the green crusties on one harness. Thanks for all of the great videos.
When I first saw him using it, it was D5. Not sure if that's what he is still using, but I believe I saw that in a recent vid if memory serves.
Alot of fuel pumps have a pressure relief spring built in and I wonder if its weak and cant hold the pressure. those volvos like alot of fuel pressure, the older ones had 2 high pressure fuel pumps, inline. one in the tank and one on the frame rail with a fuse by the battery.
You're sure not having a cracked fuel hose inside the tank? I would record a pico current and speed check against good known, if there are available. How are the brushes looking in the current waveform, if you condemned the fuel pump?
If it has a saddle type gas tank one pump could be for engine feed pressure and the other pump transfers fuel to the main pump side of the saddle.
Did you get a full sized launch because someone in the comments was complaining? I remember reading their comment a few videos back. I recently got a pro mini, still learning it's capabilities.
Only half way through video at the moment but I would have bypassed the controller checks in favour of current clamp on the two fuel pumps first. See if either had bad segments as the high duty makes me think the pump isn't as strong as it should be
19:57 that fly is trippin, nice video thx.
I have a 2006 Volvo S60 2.5t I installed a new fuel pump, used pem fuel pressure sensor not even a full year ago and it constantly will just lose power and stall. I can't replace the fuel filter ATM I need a new line but no leaks rn I've checked. Fuel pressure tells me a constant 40-45psi not idea what's going on anymore
19:58 "Pence" fly cameo...
Very nice diagnosis, FCP Euro probably has the required fuel pump.
There are two versions one for a steel gas tank and one for the plastic tank, IPD, another great source, has the one for the plastic tank.
Can you replace the fuel pressure sensor with one that would make it think that it has enough pressure so that it doesn't make the check engine light come on all the time and then just replace the sensor and the pump at the same time when this pump fails for good...???
Also this is just a question in Theory not something that you or anyone should ever do a customers vehicle..... just trying to think of other options bc no-one likes replacing parts that haven't actually died yet that's all .....
Did you check the fuel filter? Or pinched line?
Just watched Bernie Thompson, working on one of these engines, the new fuel sensor was faulty
So I am only about 6 minutes in but, I noticed that at the beginning of the video the data pid for pwm % was 67% and the car was at idle....that seems too high.......we will see if I am on the right track!
is that second pump a scavenge pump from a split sump tank?
A current clamp scope reading may have confirmed a bad pump in another way, but I guess that is beating a dead horse.
Not in this case. What would you look for on a current trace?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Bad portions of the commutator and brushes, I have always wondered about a way to predict pump failure in my own old vehicles. Hats off to Volvo, this system looks like it may keep their customers from being stranded.
Welcome back from Ohio.
i got a poo89 on my 2007 volvo v 70. i have freeze frame data: where can i get data charts for the freeze frame data info i have.
That analog gauge doesn't include atmospheric pressure when it's unplugged. That makes its readings "gauge" not "absolute".
when using after market pump make sure the wiring is right, i had one where it ran full all the time, had to switch the wires around
No aftermarket electrical stuff, especially on Euro cars!
I paused the video at the point where you started looking up the codes. I use to work for a Volvo dealer for over 12 years and this was a VERY common problem. I feel it seems that no one ever replaces the fuel filter until it's to late. And after a few years of this abuse, the fuel pump just wears out and gets weak from fighting the added restriction. The module and pressure sensor almost never go bad in those cars. Word to the wise (speaking from many years of experience) if you have a Volvo that's recording fuel pressure DTC/s and it's still running, go straight after the FDM and fuel filter.
What does FDM stand for?
@@oluwanifemiogundeko7132 FDM stands for Fuel Delivery Module.
Yes it is your right on the money
Nice !
Hello! I have got the same code. But my duty cycle is 0.24% at idle?!
If you think the fuel pressure is to high and the pump might be working to hard maybe replace the fuel filter if it's not built in to the pump it's self.
Good idea! Except pressure doesn't drop on full acceleration, so filter is not the issue 🙂
Check the filter, and use only OEM parts!
How does one replace spark plugs in a 5 cylinder? Usually, I take a drink after each plug, but the can is empty on 4 tips. Argh. So many problems in life. :)
drink 10 total, 2 per cylinder :)))
Thanks
no waveform on the amp draw? i'm dissappointed ivan! i'm betting on an internal leak or a stuck internal relief. gotta be a no part required lol
Привет, Иван! Проверь данные по давлению во время поездки. На ходу может появиться второй код. Опять эта полимерная штука 😁
You are profi , thank you
Hello Ivan, what do you think of the launch 431 V+? Is it better than the diagun version?
Bigger screen, but same coverage 👍
Thanks for replying Ivan!
I believe there must be some dead sections in the comutator already. Soon the pump will be completely dead in the water. You would have to hit the tank to get it going.
Help please! Replaced fuel sensor at rail as I had 70 psi on scanner but with the gauge is 56 psi, still the same issue and car runs like is lightly missfiring but I have no codes. Cleaned the throtle body and replaced this parts, coils and plugs, fuel sensor at rail, timing belt. Still same issue. Scanner I'm using (Launch x431, diagun)
Sensor measures ABSOLUTE pressure, gauge measures vs. atmosphere...there was nothing wrong with the original sensor lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I guess all the advice from the Internet was wrong then, car still with a bit of a hiccup, literally only when is a load on the engine 🙄
fuel pump control module is known for internal corrosion and shortage of the control signal to the fuelpump
bad position under the car
It's in the trunk! Did you not watch the vid? 😁
I was waiting for "Bonus footage", I tunred the key and found out it had leaking injectors when it hydro-locked and bend con rods or cracked piston ring lands :))))
What led you to subtract atmospheric pressure from scan tool data?
Read the scanner screen before beginning the pump test...
Like #173
Thanks for the video!
Any TSBs?
What do you mean by full fielding? Is it 100% full speed ahead?
Yup full power 💪
Seems the pump is weakening and not delivering enough fuel in time following the pwm signal. Oems might be pricey enough but parts ain't cheap for euro cars. Good luck with the repairs, as otherwise the engine sounds good.
2008 Volvo s60 2.5t is stalling. I can’t figure it out, seems like a very common issue with no solution. CODE P0089
Maf changed
Fuel filter
Fuel rail regulator
Spark plugs/coils
Fuel pressure :43psi
Great stuff , but your looking at pressure and not FLOW RATE You have not looked at a partial blockage in the fuel pipe from pump to fuel rail . Could even be a squashed pipe or blocked filter also. Cant wait for the next instalment
I have the P0089 code while driving on the LPG with the same engine on Volvo V70III 🥴
👍👍
Новая игрушка, снова Launch/
My 2001 s60 did not drop the fuel pressure when I turned engine off.
Ahh you gave the pump full power mr scott :-D
But was the fuel pump grounded propperly, is there a power loss in a bad joint hmm lol.
Power the pump directly.
We will have to wait for the next gripping episode of ' Does the pump suck ' yes and no :-D
well captain if i give her any more she'll blow!!!
@@richardcranium5839 hopefully :)
Fixing that "sweet sleeper" would be worth the time and effort.
Can't condemn the pump on just low fuel pressure, could be a split hose internal to the tank, had that on an Mitsi evo once, was going round in circles til I wired the fuel pump assembly up in a bucket of fuel and saw it pissing the fuel out of the connector o-ring (which looked perfect when disassembled)
The pump assembly is not serviceable, so the diagnosis is still the same 😉
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics ahh the good old "got to buy the whole assembly sir" when all you needed was the pump. Lots of dealers try that but 9 times outta 10 there is a walbro pump that will fit 😜😁
@@HandyC probably true, but not worth the time or risk of a comeback on such a specialty setup...
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics very true, my customers were the type that if you had any excuse for an upgrade, it got approved 🤣😎 performance car money pits 😂
Ok ✅
Battery is still the original from 2008!! Damn volvo. Where do you get them from
Ha didn't notice that... Still holds plenty of charge!
So that is that the seller gave the car came with that light couldn’t help that problem more they did not want to prescribe
Fault code: P:Surströmming
Replace the FPS too. Its cheap, and fails....causing pump issues
If the PEM hasnt been relocated, and still works....relocate it.
IT works the way it should, but not quite. It runs fine but not in spec. It does what it should but not really.
OH GAWD A VOLVO, A FREAKIN OVER SENSORED WIRING MESS, GENIE, GENIE, GENIE ? VER VERY INGENIOUS DIAG. SIR IVAN & AT LEAST YOU DON'T HAVE TO DROP THE TANK OR KILL IT WITH FIRE ECT...
Hey Igor (correction, Ivan) , maybe one of 2 motors in the pump is dead, that's why it should compensate by upping the duty to almost 70% (+ - few %) thats twice the nominal value 35% at the idle.
Who is Igor? And how are there 2 Motors in one pump?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Shit, Ivan sorry my bad, excuse me :) at 13:35 you show a diagram of the pump having 2 motors connected separately motor#1 blue and black wire motor #2 is white and white/black wires. One of the motor that primes the car should be dead since it is not priming when you turn the ignition on but the second one probably is on during the startup, I guess ...
Ok