The best words I ever heard from a bike shop owner a long time ago. "If it is uncomfortable you won't ride. If it is comfortable you won't stop riding."
I was just thinking that if I would have realized all this years ago, I would have enjoyed it more and kept doing it. It has to fit your body and your lifestyle.
I finally decided to buy a road bike last year. I watched so many of your bike fit Tuesday’s and the stuff I’ve learned here isn’t even known in a lot of bike shops. I’ll go into a bike shop and they’ll say the exact stuff you guys debunk. I just nod and pretend to agree with them. Without these videos, I would’ve been living with numb balls and numb hands my whole life.
one of the key points to mention, people tend to go to higher groupsets, and then are surprised how expensive the maintanance is. Replacing just part of the component is several times more expensive than lower groupsets.
Honest. Informative. Direct-to-the-point. Zero b*llocks. My kind of cycling channel. Kudos, Francis and James for this snappy guide to buying a bike. Cheers, mate!
The bit about sizing is absolutely correct, especially for people with shorter legs or longer legs. For example, I’m 176cm which falls into Trek’s size 56 (rider from 174-180cm), but again that’s based on people’s inseam length rather than actual height. My inseam is shorter than average and as well as my arms. So instead of 56cm, 52cm fits me the best. But this would be impossible to tell from a first time buyer and they could potentially be wasting a lot of money on a frame that can lead to injury and not comfortable to ride.
Quick question if you dont mind: I am 183cm tall and appearently have very short legs (I did not ever notice before lol), my inseam is 81,5-82 cm. On those numbers, the homepage of willier recommended the large variant which is 52 at willier. Now, someone I know said no one over 180cm should ever ride under 55. I am confused lol
Just the opposite here. I am right at 188cm (6'2") I have been riding Trek bikes for over 35 years and I know what fits and what feels right to me. On a Trek road bike my size has always been 60cm. Anything less the seat is up too high (and at times run out of seatpost ) the reach is too short, feel cramped and I am waaaaay too bent over to the handlebars to feel comfortable. My arms are longer then most, my inseam slightly shorter than most for my height , and my torso ( upper body ) is somewhat longer than most for my height. The point I am trying to make is ride what feels the best for you. For me, smaller frames just dont cut it. i also like 175mm crank arm length. Too long for most, just right for me.
The guidance in the video is totally on point. I'd like to share my experience with purchasing and dialing in a new road bike from about a year ago. Prior to buying the bike, I was vacillating between buying a frame and building it up vs. just buying a complete bike. I already had a 15+ year old road bike that I was fit on to base some decisions with, so I compared the geometry to what I was buying and figured I was good to go with buying a pre-built bike. Well, eh, sort of. After buying the bike I quickly realized that the stem was too short, even though the "reach" measurement reported by the manufacturer was similar to my old bike. What I discovered was that the stem on my old bike, while it was labeled 100mm, was actually quite a bit longer than this and didn't really compare to the 100mm stem on the new bike. My bike fitter had also said I would benefit from wider bars, so I swapped the bars too. I also wasn't in love with the saddle that came with the bike, so I swapped that for a 3D printed one (it works really, really well for me, I've never been so happy with a saddle). The last item was the crankset, which I deliberated over for the first 9 months of riding the bike. The bike came with a 52/36 + 11/30 set up. I could make it work, but even as a reasonably strong rider, I knew I was going to be better off with a compact (50/34) chainring set up with all the (steep) hills in my area. After putting it off all that time, I finally broke down and ordered a new crankset, and then quickly kicked myself for waiting so long to do it because it was immediately apparent how much better the bike was with it. I was able to sit (a lot) more on longer climbs and the new crankset (along with a swap to 700x32 tires) made the bike much more effective on the gravel sections I mix into some of my rides. So ~$1,200 in component changes later, the bike is pretty much perfect. Would I have been better off buying a frame and building it up from scratch? Maybe. The frame I wanted (note, I will only ride a bike with a threaded BB, so this limited my options to a few manufacturers) is sold standalone only in its highest end form, so I think I still came out ahead in terms of value for money. With that said, having a "curated" ride with handpicked components would have been pretty sweet.
Darn. I wish I'd seen this in Sept 21 when I started along this glorious road. I *Literally* made ever mistake possible from shoe size to bike fit after purchase. I will say that cycling as a thing does creep up on you somewhat. If you'd have told me last August that in about 3 months I'd be utterly obsessed with cycling I'd have laughed, I was still murdering my poor middle aged knees on a bi-daily run. And even once discovered It took about 6 months of exceedingly slippery slopery to realize this was going to be a (big) part of my life going forward and by then all the errors had been made... Ho hum. Time to book in a retrospective bike fit with James and hope he doesn't give me a bollocking 8)
After buying a bike, I still do a 4km run once/week, but bike is much more common, and indeed my knees feels better (they kinda "relax" during cycling) :)
@@Rufgaudas yeah I do the same. Though perhaps every other week. My knees feel so much better even when running these days (lower frequency perhaps?) But it's nice to mix up the excersize a bit...
Haha I am in there early stages of this. Only rod my vintage road bike 3 times and I have been obsessing every moment since. Can't imagine what upgrading to a modern bike is going to feel like
I’m a 51 year old woman, I’m getting back into cycling, I just bought the Trek Domane AL 3. I absolutely love it. I just got my hip replaced in April. I rode 26 miles yesterday. It’s so comfortable and easy to ride. I’m 5.8 and I have a 52 inch.
Really enjoyed this one. For someone who is not into drop bar/racing/gravel/endurance bikes I can say that there should be a bike fitting market for us folks who ride hybrids/commuter bikes and normal shoes. I ride a Trek Allant+5 and it’s the most uncomfortable bike I have ever had. On my 3rd saddle, 2nd stem, and have 2 handlebars on order.
I'd also add the suggestion of considering summer and winter shoes, fitted for the thickness of socks you're likely to be wearing in that season. It took a few years, but I've now gone to having winter shoes that are 45 instead of 44 because I trade out thin cycling socks for medium weight wool once the frost comes.
Needing to ride a bike in winter wearing wool socks, unless you are living above the polar circle, would strongly suggest you have a serious issue with peripheral circulation. Maybe it's time to visit the cardiologist instead of a bike fitter.
I just went to Ultegra because I am middle adged and having the buying power :) Wanted a new bike and upgraded to carbon middle class and they just come with Ultegra. But I was having good fun with my 105 aluminum endurance bike and honestly it is all I would need. I stayed on mechanical because it is easier to maintain. Generally speaking I think investing in better wheels is much more benefit than upgrading group set for recreational drivers. Almost every bike in entry and lower middle class (up to €5000) usually comes with very basic wheel set. And I think the geometry part is also overrated. Every endurance bike from a major manufacturer should be basically ok if one knows how to measure frame size correctly. Just look for a relaxing stack to reach factor of around 1.5.
So I rode my bike to work 4 days a week and raced in local races. Got pretty good. Then 6-7 years in my neck pain was so bad I just quit biking straight up. Just recently I started researching neck pain and bike fitting and it led me to your channel. God I wish I knew this stuff when I started. Also, I wish I could go to Richmond and get a bike fit with you. I do have a bike fit here in Arizona, place called cyclologic. It’s in about a week and I can’t wait. I’m cautiously optimistic that maybe I can go back to biking pain free. I loved biking and I miss it. Bottom line, thank you both for all you do. Keep it up because you are educating and reaching people around the world. Best from Phoenix Arizona!
Best of luck for the bike fit Robert, it's a shame you had to quit because of injury, I hope CycloLogic sorts you out. @James nice to see you lurking in the comments! It gave me a laugh to pop up your profile and see your recent comment on this channel was 'that's what she said'. A master of comedy as always 😁
@@MarioBecerraCit was definitely better and the fit helped. I think what also helped a ton was stretching and strengthening exercises. Just realizing I’m not 21 anymore and that i have to be diligent about doing the right things helped me ride again. Sorry for the late reply
With bikes being nearly impossible to purchase in-store, videos like this are invaluable. As someone who is currently suffering on a bike purchased online i'll definitely be booking a slot with James at the end of the year.
I wish there was a good way of evaluating bike fitters without spending a few hundred per fit and going to multiple... Very tempted to book a flight to the UK... Any recommendations for bike fitters in Switzerland?
Best video ever..... Someone actually said 105 Are a great group set ,and you do not need to spend the big money on the top group sets to go fast. Put a little money into your feet, and think 🤔 they only hit the dam puddles....
I've been cycling for about 50 years now and I can't believe how much I've learned from BFT. I've been riding various Time frames in the last 14 years, getting closeouts and gently used bikes. Fantastic frames. I always build my own bikes. I was 6'-1.5" but have shrunk to nearly 6' now. I started with a 57cm but have been on 55.5 for the last 10 years. All Times have relatively tall headtubes. My Scylon is the raciest (w/ Record Mech), and the Fluidity (w/ Potenza) by far the most comfortable. Honestly the Potenza which is newer, works better than the Record. Fortunately my seat height has been close to right from the start. I did assume I was like most and had it too high. I ended up with hip soreness and once I returned to the old height it got better again. I thought I had wide feet when actually I'm quite medium. I had been upsizing (oops). I used the Lake site and precisely measured my feet and ended up with the 238 regulars. I bought the G8 insoles from James and was shocked to find I needed the No.4 arch. I realize now, my foot and saddle problems were all due to shoe fit issues. In fact, I was able to find a cache of 10 pairs of G8 1800 for $85US, 3/4 length insoles to equip all of my shoes (not just cycling shoes). The other biggest change for me came from lever position. I had been mounting the hoods horizontal instead of slightly up. As a result even my Time long reach bars now work fine as I was able to really mount them high on the curve. Coming from track racing I was already used to narrower bars so the 40 c-c bars were already the right width. Also I've used 165 on the track and 170 on the road for the last 40 years so I think I got that one right. I did have to reduce the stem length to 100 from 110. I've looked for fitters in the Chicago area, but I've never met any that use the Hogg methods so I've had to resort to James and Neal Stansbury in Australia and DIY it. If I'm ever in London, I will definitely come by and see if I'm still doing it wrong. For now, this 63 year old is still going fast, but now with more comfort and efficiency. Thanks James.
Nice to hear some good feedback on Potenza. There's not much talk about it, but it's the one I'd go for when next building a bike. How many miles do you have on it? My 105 worked great, but after 15,000km it became really sloppy. Miss my old Centaur.
@@craigwilson118 I bought it used and it was said to have 500 miles on it. I’ve got another 500 of mostly on hard smooth gravel. It’s been discontinued so used is the route. FYI I spent about $400usd no brakes in the set. I had some 90s era Chorus that I’m using. Very smooth and solid group.
I have been on road bikes for over 30 years now. Back then there was a big difference between 105 and Ultegra/Dura Ace but as of today? 105 is just an awesome set and miles better of what it was 30 years ago. Really awesome guid here, well done.
Merida Scultura Endurance. Great bike. Can ride all day. No, having some fancies on my bike doesn’t make me go faster. But it does make me want to go more often …
I thought merida's endurance frame is the ride? I rode a Scultura once and if sized correctly it's about as aggressive as a caad 10. I only needed a 130mm -17 stem instead of the usual 140mm but Cannondale just has a short reach in general.
James is so right about current lower end group sets being as good as older top of the line. Current sora, and acera group sets are as good if not better than my 1990 dura ace with the original sti brifters. For my style of riding now I don't need to spend the money on the latest and greatest.
be carefull not to buy too small bike after watching this video. getting smaller bikes means the head tube is shorter, dropping your handle bar lower and closer to you !!! Also, your foot might be hitting your wheel, when you pedal and turn at the same time... Also, you need to have good balance on bike when you go uphill, flat, and downhill too. What is a problem with too short bikes, you dont have enough support on the front when you go down the hill, because everything is so close to you !!! And then you need to jump on brakes...
Also, don't get too large a bike, with a smaller bike you can at least stick a longer stem on, but sticking a shorter stem on a larger bike can make it twitchy to ride.
Bmx guys all ride bikes that are at least two sizes too small for them. They never have a problem going downhill ? bikes that are too small might be uncomfortable but bikes that are too big are outright dangerous for the health of the rider. Given a choice between the two, it's probably better to choose too small rather than too large.
@@agstudioband getting the correct size would be best. What if you are unsure what is the correct size? A smaller bike can usually be extended to fit more comfortably. If it can't be extended to fit comfortably, it usually won't have as serious health implications if you ride around, trying to figure out which bike size would match your riding style and stature. It was pointed out if there is a sizing problem, currently it's more likely too big rather than too small. So too small is less common and it poses less of a health threat if it did occur. Wouldn't it be more appropriate to warn people to be careful of listening to the bike industries current hype and buy a bike that is too big for you?
@@longdang2681 yes sure, but i am meeting people who are selling their bikes, not only because it is large to them but also because it is small and they look for bigger size. I would say its 80 - 20 %
I love these videos, although they raise lots of questions for me as a cyclist, physiotherapist and scientist (professor) - the claims made are based on a static riding position/bike fit. Even those professional athletes spoken about at the beginning of the video do not actually “maintain” a position (maybe more so timetrialling) if we look at you and particularly James on your videos riding you are never in a set position on a bike/saddle/handlebar - maybe a clipped in foot is(although most people utilise the float if possible). If you ride over an hour your position will change due to hysteresis and creep, no one sits on and pedals a bike/rig for the length of time they are in that position - I could go on - I respect what you are both doing but would love the opportunity to chat over these things with you both - I am local to Richmond.
I think the important point is that you feel comfortable from the beginning. Regardless of how many times you shift your body position during the ride you can gaurantee that if you are not comfortable at kilometer zero, then it will be worse after 1 hour and worse after 2 hours and so on.
But your bike is still a fixed and static object? If the bars are too far away, someone can't reach them comfortably. If the saddle is too high, pedals are too far away. You can try bend further, or stretch those little legs (in my case anyway), but then you might get a sore back or saddle sores. The purpose of the bike fit seems to essentially be for someone with specialised equipment to measure how far you can reach comfortably. Hence why the videos usually feature old mate James and his jig. It seems really straightforward in principle actually. You put someone on the jig, and you move things around till you find where they're comfortable and where they aren't. Then you get your measurements and aim for a bike that falls within the range.
@@guppyitsallgood of course those things have to be approximately in the right place but the point I am making is that if we are careful we actually do what James argues against and make the person fit the bike not the bike fit the person I.e they believe that there is one ideal set position and actually attempt to maintain that rather than be dynamic in relation to it.
@@michaelcheng6469 and I reckon that most people who are comfortable at km zero would according to James be on the wrong bike? - you have people replying here that they are now worried they are on the wrong bike but the question is are they having any issues!
@@dibbygibby at this point I feel like you're just looking for someone to argue semantics with. I don't think your comment was particularly clear, but I think there is an ideal position, at least theoretically. Power delivery and aerodynamics can be optimised. The only question left is can comfort be optimised? And I imagine at least to a certain extent, it can. If you've got a bunch of money to spend on a brand new bike, it does seem reasonable to try get a picture of what would make you generally most comfortable. I was a competitive kayaker, and I think anyone who has competed in these kinds of disciplines can recognise the benefit in filming and optimising your action (whether paddling or pedalling). I spent time working on, and making observable gains by maintaining an ideal position and motion. Sure the average person riding a bike might not have much to gain, but at the prices they are, it's not really aimed at someone riding their comfy commuter or a cruise around the park is it? There's only one way it's worth it. You ride enough K's, hard enough. Maybe you should pay for a bike fit with him and give us an independent review, I'd watch it.
For me the balance test was a really defining moment. I am 170cm tall and have gone through 3 bikes and 60mm stems just to find out I should ride a 49cm after a balance test at home. And in my country there's no road bikes on stock til who knows when. So I'll stay away from the stem police until I can get my hands on a 49.
As a former bike shop worker (Procurement) we used the same ethos as in this video, I'm glad we werent the only independent bike shop to do so! Great content, thank you.
So happy I found bikefit-james before buying my second bike. First one was waaay to big and I almost quit cycling because it was hard to sit on it for more than 1 hour
This is one of the best of these videos you've made Francis. James is the ace up your jersey sleeve, his knowledge and presentation is properly top notch. Can you ask him how many pairs of Lakes he thinks he has sold? He's a great salesman, he could sell Brexit to James O'Brien 👍👍 I'm 6'3-6'4 and I'm riding an XL Endurace and James is making me think I'm on an oversize bike now 🤔
@@buddhahat I am 6"2 and currently my bike frame is 60. Stack 582 (but rised up with negative stem +5 degrees and dropbars turned up a little bit, i might be on 620 now) Reach 392 Top tube 560 i use only 90 mm stem, which i consider to be minimum on road bike. You might need shorter one too. But it depends on length of your arms.
Same with me with sizing . I wear size small tops and a lot of bike charts suggest size Small as I am 168cm in height. I have ridden XS and even XXS bikes and they both fit better than size Small. In fact every size Small bike I have ridden the reach is too long and can't be corrected even with a 80mm stem which is wrong anyway on that size frame. Some bike charts do recommend XS and XXS small though and some Small . It's very easy to buy a frame that doesn't fit from following size charts.
Would you recommend a gravel bike for most (non racing/competitive) riders? Given the geometry is more relaxed in the way the rider interacts with the bike. The more robust build, wider tires ,and "easier" gearing also seem to be more appropriate for fitness/health concerned riders.
I’m wondering the same thing as @chris Myers if gravel bikes better for non competitive riding but better posture for fitness/fun/health as I’m shopping for a bike these days. Been considering Trek, Canyon, Specialized, under between $1500-2000 if that’s a good range for beginner into this world. I live in the Los Angeles area. Anyone James/anyone can recommend would be so appreciated. Thank you
But its 2 kg heavier and honestly pricing of gravel bikes is so hyped. I dont understand why. If you plan riding on roads most of the time, gravel is not good. If you plan riding offroad you may want gravel. But mtb gives you more variety offroad.
I wish I had seen this year's ago when I started out. Spot on. Get fitted for a bike and shoes first. I sunk a small fortune into shoes, bib and saddles and quite frankly was miserable with constant chafing, aching shoulders and neck. Wrong size bikes. Until finally I got a bloody fit and got both sorted out. That fit has served me well. My shoes are all Lakes now!
Another thing I see a quite a few people mess up, is knowing (having a realistic estimate of) what maintenance will cost. Some folks around me with low income that are riding completely worn dura-ace/ultegra/SRAM red chains/sprockets that are skipping under load, or won't shift reliably simply because they can't really afford to change the parts after buying an extremely expensive (often financed) bike. They get into it all happy, go on lots of rides, and then after 6-12 months you don't really see them anymore because they don't enjoy riding an unreliable bike, and are still paying off the bike itself, causing them to not have money to maintain it and replace worn parts. I don't get how bike shops can sell someone a "first" road bike and talk them into getting a 8-10k euro one when the customer needs to finance it.
@@elijahogolah1497 Over here most bike shops are more like "Bike sellers" they aim for selling them, and not maintaining them or keeping their customers. I've gone into one when I was on vacation in a different city (where they didn't know me) and asked about a commuter bike. And they basically go for the "you need to get the best of the best, otherwise you'll have a crap experience" take on it. Then they had 2 bikes with similar setups, 1 electronic shifting, and 1 without. The one without clearly wasn't indexed properly, and had the chain skip between the gears, and the electric one was perfect of course. But according to the guy there, that's why electronic shifting is superior, and you absolutely need it, cable operated shifters are crap. Anyway, apparently for a 35 km (one way) commute you need a carbon frame, carbon deep wheels, high end groupset, electronic shifting.. Basically a bike a pro cyclist would use. I was kinda disappointed he didn't wanna throw in ceramic bearings.. Apparently commuting 70 km a day can't be done on my 22 KG steel bike with 3x7 tourney setup. I can't believe I never realized that in all these years.. 😁 I'd prefer my
Frame sizing have been ruined by compact frames rising in popularity. I'm 6.1 and with clasic diamond shape frame i was just fine with 58. Proportions of frame looks just spot on. Bike with me looks spot on, received compliments near red lights many times. Actual top tube is 575mm. Never had any pain on long rides. Later got compact geometry 57 size roadie, which have actual top tube lenght of same 575mm. Compact somehow feels larger in every dimension exept weight. Maybe becaus lately got injured while hiking, or fall from motorcycle added also. But now with compact roadie i get knee pain in left knee. After 4 hours i get pain. Next day after 3 hours pain asking me to stop. Dont know whats realy wrong. Tried to adjust seat hight by few milimiters but with such adjustments i have to do at least 100km ride evere weekend which is not always possible. Stem is slammed... But im slim, never had problem with that. Also hate those FLOW saddles .. yes, soft tissue feels maybe more happy with that, but overall i get swell on one side sitbone after long ride .. Dunno. For me Selle Italia Turbo or versions of it, is greatest saddle ever.... Also compact frame looks ugly even if other consider my new bike stylish. Plus 1.5 kilos weight saving on bicycle means nothing in real riding speeds. Wide tyres feel more slugish even if they remove alot of road buzz. And 42 wide drops feels to wide even if my shoulders should let this width, but old bicycle have 40cm handlebar which feels more comfortable. Maybe I'm just getting old....
I've just ordered a Giand Defy Advanced 2 and whilst I really enjoyed this video and could see the perfect sense in the advice, the realities of buying a bike these days makes a lot of it impractical. 13 months ago I ordered a similar model from Ribble and the original delivery date was put back 5 times and a total of around six months before I cancelled the order. I bought the Giant from stock in Edinburgh but it was the last size 54 they had. My point is that it's so hard to get your first choice of bike nowadays that the only option can be to grab what you can whilst you can and then do the necessary adjustments when you get it.
If it makes you feel any better, I ordered a a Defy Advanced 2 completely unseen (for the reasons you outline above) last year and (after waiting 9 months for delivery) have loved every minute of it!
@@worland9 You have made me feel better Joe, thanks. However I'll feel better still if it turns up on Wednesday 3 August as promised. What do you like about it especially if I may ask?
@@zoothornrollo9960 It's incredibly versatile - I can do fast group rides with the club one day, and hop onto side paths and light gravel another. The 32mm tubeless setup feels puncture proof and super comfortable but feels perfectly fast enough when needed. Enjoy!
One of the most important facts that most cycling channels miss is, do you actually need dura-ace, or even ultegra or even 105 Di 2. For a average rider do you even need the latest model of a groupset unless there is some very significant changes like some failing part in the previous model is now made of better materials.
Fair comment, but I’m 50 and a bit fat but love my Tamac SL7 race bike. It’s comfy to ride and I get a real buzz from knowing it’s almost the same as the bike the pros ride. No need for the pogo stick handlebars or the ugly endurance geometry!
I’m getting ready to buy a Cannondale SuperSix Evo 3. I’m 6’1 and I’ve been riding a 56 Dogma 2. The top tube on the Cannondale seems to be true to 56 size. I’m going to measure it in the shop. Also you’ve convinced me to buy new shoes as well. Great video!
You know, this video helped me a ton! I know people that I ride with an we're not racers. We're just endurance adventure cyclist. Some of them got bikes that range in 5k or more. They even upgraded their wheels and tires. I have a Domane SL 5 2021, and I love it. I still have the same wheels and tires. Haven't done anything to it, and we're riding the same pace. I don't understand why some people buy these super bikes and expensive gears if they're not professional races. I just don't understand it at all. Maybe it motivates them or something. But I'm glad I researched what type of bike there were and what I wanted before I went shelling money on a bike just because it's expensive.
Great videos and obvious James speaks from great knowledge and experience. That said, his comment on bike sizing really surprises me as the implication is that frame sizes of 58+ are for folk who are 6'4+. I'm 6'2" but with long inseam so needed a 60cm Domane as I was at the limit of the seatpost in the 58cm. I did have a general fitting and my seat height wasn't said to be 20mm too high and I'm sure any lower wouldn't be ideal so it's obviously down to individual sizing. I have needed to fit a shorter stem to reduce the reach but given the endurance fit it feels fine and I can ride on the hoods no problem.
Thanks Francis and James......I wish id known a lot of this 4 years ago.....eh ? I have learned most of what I know from watching you , and others like you , on UA-cam...I still love to ride , no matter what !
Definitely agree that almost everyone should be riding an endurance bike. I got a Scott Addict this year and it is so much more comfortable than my previous bike (Merida Reacto) - especially on 100K+ rides. I am able to keep up fine on group rides with guys who have racing bikes, slammed stems, etc. And I’ve still got the drops, so I can get reasonably aero when I need to. Sure if you’re serious about racing you probably want to get something with a more aggressive geometry - but for me I’m just looking to get out and have fun and get in a good workout, and it’s a lot more fun when you’re not in pain.
Agree 1000% with this video. I bought a trek emonda size 58 because thats what the guy suggested to me according to the size chart. Im 183 so im in the middle range of 58 according to the chart but afterwards went for a bike fitting and the only solution was to short the stem and get a short saddle to make it work….
A lot of good pointers here. Like James and with his advice, I’ve tried comfier handlebars, cranks, seats, shoes and honestly it’s a night and day difference to a stock bike experience and especially one that doesn’t fit. I go to stores that press me on buying a 54 when I know im closer to a 50. Consumers have to do a lot of homework before purchase. It’s a shame but extremely worth it once it clicks.
It's great that James is so convincing, now i know i'm not crazy. The manufacturer's site keeps telling me i need a size L, but taking a closer look at the geometry, their size M is almost as big as my current bike (which feels slightly too big already).
James is amazing and I agree with almost everything he says, however some brand sizing is just odd. I've a Cube endurance bike in size 58, and a Kona cross bike in size 54, and they both fit great (and are surprisingly close in measurements). So check (at a minimum) the stack and reach before you buy (after your fitter has told you what ballpark you want those numbers to be in).
One extra quick thing to look at, is seeing which size stem they put on some models. Another one is offset seatposts. Combine the two and suddenly with the same reach on the specsheet, buying a bike from a different brand can still give a 3CM difference. Handlebar reach is also a big one, where some Trek bikes still come with 100mm reach vs 75ish on other branch, so despite seemingly having a tiny reach on the frame, the Trek ones can still be just as long.
I do enjoy James 'cumberbatch' on your channel. soooo much common sense advice from him (and you Francis) is really refreshing..... I've got 8 bikes .... but before I buy #9 I'll deffo get a bike fit. promise!
For the first part of the video i'd have to quote James' "It depends on the needs of the individual". Sure, generally speaking it makes a lot of sense, however for me endurance bikes are WAAAY to short or too high. I'd be bashing my knee on the handlebars or would be sitting more upright than in my car. My torso is just relatively tall for my leg length. anyway, just get a fit and work from there.
When I was 11-14 old, I was a member of one of the local sport clubs in Budapest. We were out there on the road, riding 5 times a week, and we did most of the races we could go to. Don't ask me how many kilometers I've done - we were so poor I didn't even have my own bike, but had to ride the ones that were lent out by the club to me and thus I didn't even have a computer with an odometer... And the track days/track races were done with the club's own bikes as well... But in all those years my lower back, my feet and my b*tt was hurting... I always dreamt of having a road bike that was fun to ride. I can't even imagine how different those years could have been, if I would have had a bike that fit me :(
Fantastic video, I'm looking for a bike - and now know sizing is not as simple as measuring my inside leg - you've probably just saved me a fortune in a buying a mis-sized bike. Will use a chunk of budget on bike fit and shoes first. Thanks guys!
Funny 😢 I've clearly suffered from reach as a beginner. Told to get a bike fit knowing my bike would never fit. It was a very good value intro which I still have while I'm looking for the next. But I realised the sizes quoted still put me at risk of spending 2k and being in exactly the same spot! So refreshing to hear this get a fit without a bike. Anyone in cambs do that?
Francis - interested in what James had to say regarding the amount of things he would change on a new bike without even riding it first. For those of us that don't own a bike shop or have a sponsorship deal, would you/James therefore say that building up a frame from scratch was a better way of getting the "right" bike rather than buying off the peg and changing out so many key components? Presumably it would be more cost effective?
Given the amount of people with cash to spare that 'upgrade' their bike and sell the old one second hand... I've built a couple of bikes with a heavy focus on second hand bits. Just have to be a bit careful around second hand carbon. The amount of deals out there are pretty phenomenal once you start looking. Even things like getting my pink bar tape from 60NZD down to 10NZD because it had never sold at the LBS. The guy at the counter even scoffed a bit when I walked up with two packs. Mate, if pink bar tape scares you off that kind of discount...
I bought my first racing bike from a shop nearby and they changed all the parts like that for me with no extra cost - I imagine not every shop will do this, but the good ones will.
@@Cade_Media When I bought my Scott Addict and wanted a different cassette, the shop made me pay extra. Im sure it would be the same if you were changing chainset or bars/saddle. Most manufacturers (and therefore dealers) dont offer a custom built option, which is essentially what you're asking for if you want a shorter crank, or different cassette or whatever
My first road bike was a Domane AL2 frame 61. My height is 6'0 and good looord I was soo stretched out. My neck was hurting, wrists were hurting and generally after a 1000km I said it's pointless. Worst of all, it was sold to me in a respected bike shop telling me it fits perfectly. I hope there's a special place in hell for this kind of sales people. Now I got a 56 frame and with some adjustments it feels so much better.
That is what makes me nervous about going to a local bike shop. Called one and asked what is involved in a bike fit for them. "Bring your bike in and we will adjust the saddle." Wouldn't even talk about fit for a new bike. This is supposed to be a trek certified or recommended fitter.
@@fredbecker607 man, I'm not going to be a wise a*s here, but only reasonable advice I can think of is to go for a fit that is done by a pro physiotherapist. I know it's not cheap, but it's probably for the best.
@@kbodzioch And that's the problem, people expect the bike shops to fit you, but it NOT a simple process. Bike shops can get you close, but I live in a area of 2 million people and there are 2 fitters that I would recommend. Will typically set you back $2-300, but given what we spend on the bikes....
I bought my first bike from a Trek dealer (Summit Bikes in Burlingame, CA), and they spent a lot of time doing a proper fit. It wasn’t even an expensive bike - it was one level above their cheapest model. They also did free maintenance on the bike for life - and took great care of me for years until I moved away. Unfortunately I’ve found that the quality of service varies a lot from store to store, and as a beginner you don’t really know enough to tell if the person at the local bike shop knows what they’re talking about. There are no shops in my current city that I really trust - and have basically just had to learn to service my bike by myself.
Absolutely fantastic video guys. I bought a new bike this year and now am dealing with Lake Shoes in Toronto to assist with my short wide feet. I bought G8's and am loving them so your videos have really helped.
Yes geometry is a minefield brand to brand, last time I was advised by a shop I test rode a 61cm Roubaix, I'm 6ft 3. So I've taken the info from my bike fit with James to piece together a new steed.
thanks for the advise, most bike heads can ride any bike with various adjustments, saddle height etc, if you are not racing anywhere , have seen some tall guys using bike too small for them -by just increasing the saddle height. and the seem happy.
Mentioning the groupset options is probably most important in terms of the bike itself. People will try to buy the best they can, but don't realize that they aren't getting something that will dramatically improve their performance on a bike. The other part that should be mentioned is the cost of part replacement. I use to run SRAM Red, but after damaging a rear derailleur I "downgraded" to Force because it was a third to half the cost for replacement parts.
Ecxellent advice!. I'm seeking a new bike and plan to get a fitment done. I went into my file cabinet and found the fitment I did 20 years ago to compare against new methods, geometry and bio-mechanics thinking. Things have definately gravitated towards smaller frames with the advent of TCR style frames.(RIP Mike Burrows)
I'm also 5'10" and I ride a medium. I have a mate who is 5'8" and also rides a medium. His saddle is below his handlebars. I can't get through to him. Also, Shimano should keep Tiagra when they start swallowing everything into CUES. Tiagra is an excellent groupset and is better than Dura-Ace from 2009, or ultegra from 2012, or 105 from as recently as 2020.
Many great points there for people starting! I have an entry level bike with a Claris drivetrain and TRP disc brakes that has been great. Been wanting to upgrade to a 1x drivetrain for a more gravel oriented gearing and more powerful brakes but can't justify the cost because the Claris symply just continues to work, 1600km so far and only nedded to replace a chain.
Didn't realise how much variation there is in top tube length as I've always gone by down tube sizing. I'm generally good at getting the correct fitment on my bikes but will definitely pay attention more to top tube length as well. Cheers for the info.
Also, make sure you are looking at virtual top tube length ( measured horizontally). With most bikes having sloped top tubes, the actual is shorter than the virtual.
A discussion on crank length would be great, seems like they are all to long. When in the drops my legs hit my chest, but being taller a bike will come with long arms. Bigger rider == Longer cranks??
That’s why I got a Focus Cayo as it was great value and looks cool and fits perfectly.by upgrading the wheels etc I can easy drop the weight by over half a kilo
105 is the better investment always, unless the budget is more limited, if the budget do allow for Ultegra, the shifting is a bit crisper, and feels very good, but not night and day difference from 105 in performance. Unless you are just arriving home from a very long bike race in France right now, Dura-Ace is a bit of an overkill.
Can't book a coffee. It's so weird after all these videos to hear that, but I get it. Randoms who have seen your videos tons of times just showing up "I have an appointment ???" Tons of good advice, especially for party pace riders like me.
I wish I'd seen this video 7 months ago when I bought my bike, but even after, I know I made the right purchase. I ended up buying a Roubaix Comp in size 49 after lusting for months for a Canyon Endurace. Why? Because it was available. How did I know a 49 would be right for me? I took measurements with my old bike, a Trek Hybrid, and the closest ones were of the 49 for Specialized and the 2XS for Canyon. (I'm 5'6'' with around a 28-29"(73cm) inseam). But definitely get fitted beforehand, because with cycling, costs snowball anyway, and what's another $150-200 in the grand scheme? As for electronic groupsets, NO, we don't need them at all, but when you finally experience one, they're something else. I love my SRAM Rival! But the part of this video that made me laugh out loud was when James started talking about shoes and said: "you scoff at 300 pounds for shoes and then spend 3k on wheels". That's the next thing I need to get because although I love my $100 Shimano shoes, I know there's more comfort to be had there and I'm going to have to make that next investment there and only there, even before upgrading the wheels. Thanks guys, cheers!
@@adrianc6534 It does seem small, but when I stand over the top tube in front of the saddle, I can only lift my bike about an inch off the ground. I'm only 5'6" because I have a long neck, very strange indeed. But a 52" would have been too big for me. I still wanna get a bike fit to dial it in better and make up for some lack of flexibility and a still weak core.
I used a sizing calculator on a very popular bike site and no matter what height I put in they just gave me the exact same frame size - designed for a 6ft+ person, and I'm nowhere near that. Methinks they're trying to shift some inventory!
Excellent advice and video. I wish your shop was in NYC so that I can get the right bike for myself who's older and wants a decent no nonsense road bike.
James on his race bike soapbox again. "Don't buy that Ferrari, you're not a good enough driver and you won't fit all your shopping in" If riding the same bike as a pro makes you happy and excited about riding, do it. Don't worry about whether or not you can maintain the appropriate torso angle. Besides, it's not 2010. Race bikes are so much more compliant and comfortable than they used to be and lots of so called endurance bikes are very racy these days. I don't believe that if you are in agony riding a race bike that the small increase in comfort from an endurance bike is suddenly gonna cure all your fit problems.
Well said. I’ve amassed over a period of time an endurance-ish road bike (size 53, Bianchi) a racy gravel bike (51, Cervelo) and a full on road bike (52, Specialized). They are all a decent fit but the road bike is, to my constant surprise, easily the most comfortable over all distances - even for shock absorption. To Tom’s point, it’s the one I enjoy blatting around on the most and is the quickest, no doubt because I feel quicker on it and therefore ride that way (and the aero clearly doesn’t hurt). So while James always makes his extremely well-developed views very clear based in years of experience, don’t be afraid to at least try a silly racy bike before you plump for an endurance model. Either way, get a professional fit and / or make a note of your most comfortable and enjoyable stack, reach, saddle height, crank length, handlebar width etc, otherwise even the endurance or gravel bike will hurt like heck as well (from early experience).
It's less about compliance, more that they are too long. You can of course ride a race bike with a stack of spacers, but that will affect the handling of the bike. Relaxed geo but still aero/stiff would be ideal for a lot of consumers.
I had reserved a bike that was already coming into my local bike shop, they said if I changed my mind I wouldn’t lose my deposit. I thought I would need a 52cm bike, but on seeing these videos I have cancelled that order & booked myself a bike fit so I will then have all the information I need to buy a bike that will fit me.
My 12 year old Bianchi has the old 8 speed Clarus levers with those stupid thumb levers high up on the hoods. I want to replace them but every time I look for a new group I can't justify the costs on a 12 year old, heavy aluminum bike.
How to buy a bike. Q 1. Are you an amateur athlete ? Q 2. Have you had a basic bike fit in last 90 days ? Q 3. Have you had a shoe fit evaluation in last 90 days ? This or something similar should be the foundation to the purchase of an enthusiast bicycle.
I run Shimano Claris on my training bike, it's bulky, only has 8 speed and rim brake. But incredibly reliable, feels almost as sharp as my 2012 Dura-Ace at times and could defiantly snipe a race win or two with it.
Ughhhhh I made a huge rookie mistake years and years ago with my frame. 54cm frame 5’6. I’ve had nothing but fit problems. Thanks for this video. I’m in the market for a new one and plan on doing it right this time
some tips to think about - consider looking for female specific frames. bikes are designed for men, and women are basically hinged differently at the hips so I believe female bike frames would have a slightly longer top tube. Cannondale did make one in 2021, called a Synapse. Also depends on your body type too, longer legs or longer torso can make a big diff. And one more tip, if you ever need to use a longer seatpost, or a stem that's more than 20 mm longer than what the bike came with, the frame is too small. Same goes for having the seatpost completely buried in the frame and needing a stem way shorter than stock - this frame is too big. A bike fitting would help, but I certainly wouldn't trust this guy - he doesn't even know how to measure a frame.
Erm most important is both surely reach and seat tube, because if you need a lot of post out then saddle to bar drop is to much , that is why I had to go for a 56 , 54 cm to small for me on the legs
To become more confused: at Specialized, every model has its own size chart. A 45 Tarmac isn't the same size as a 45 Roubaix. There isn't THE truth about sizing. I've read lots of comments of people riding bike with "wrong" sizes and they're fine. I, as a skinny small person, was riding a Specialized CrossTrail in Size "L" and i had no pain at all. Now i got a Roubaix, size 54 (170-178) and i'm fine as well. According to other brands a "54" is ways to big.
Thanks for that mithbusting about sizes. Tired to tell to all my friends: don't buy THAT BIG frame. I'm 190cm (6,4 feet?), and my bikes are 56cm with pretty short ETT (mtb 19-20) with 400mm seatposts. Also found for my wife (168cm) xs bike (mtb, 15 inch, very short ett), changed stem from 80 to 60, and she's absolutely happy with it. And yup, 350mm seatpost is almost in upper position. Size matters:)
Don't doubt older guys, we're not out of the race yet, granted I'm not going to race but I can push myself, even if I were to go endurance doesn't mean it can't be fast.!!!
Don't laugh, but I cycle a minimum of 12 miles daily - on a 7 speed 20" wheeled Dahon Mariner fold up bike, in Amsterdam, in my sneakers shorts and tee. I've always wanted to take it more seriously as a dedicated hobby, but living in apartments, normally up three flights of stairs that would challenge a mountain climber, I've never been able to buy a "proper" road bike, hence my silly (albeit tons of fun!) fold up bike. Much as I truly enjoy the little Dahon for it's zippiness around town, when I'm out on the open road the little wheels and 7 gears make it a bit tough going at times - it's very flat here, but then with cobbles chucked into the mix! So, long story short, I'm looking at getting a gravel bike, but as it is my first dip into this world I have to say it is such a mind boggling amount to take in. THIS VIDEO IS PURE BRILLIANT!!!!!!!!! Truly great advice, in particular the tip about fitting - I have never even really considered reach as being the most important aspect in a frame. It might be too complex a subject to go into via a comment, but is there a way for us to calculate what top tube size would best suit our height? Presumably we have to factor in arm / body / leg length.....Anyway, great vid!
The best words I ever heard from a bike shop owner a long time ago. "If it is uncomfortable you won't ride. If it is comfortable you won't stop riding."
I was just thinking that if I would have realized all this years ago, I would have enjoyed it more and kept doing it. It has to fit your body and your lifestyle.
I finally decided to buy a road bike last year. I watched so many of your bike fit Tuesday’s and the stuff I’ve learned here isn’t even known in a lot of bike shops. I’ll go into a bike shop and they’ll say the exact stuff you guys debunk. I just nod and pretend to agree with them.
Without these videos, I would’ve been living with numb balls and numb hands my whole life.
what bike did you end up buying if you don't mind sharing.
Does anyone else just love the way this guy speaks? He reminds me of my English teacher the unbothered but passionate human you remember forever.
I have trouble understanding him :( it might be his accent and that he speaks really fast
he speaks unclearly
@@MarioBecerraC Turn on CC closed captions, helps a lot
does your English teacher looks like John Krasinski too?
one of the key points to mention, people tend to go to higher groupsets, and then are surprised how expensive the maintanance is. Replacing just part of the component is several times more expensive than lower groupsets.
Honest. Informative. Direct-to-the-point. Zero b*llocks. My kind of cycling channel. Kudos, Francis and James for this snappy guide to buying a bike. Cheers, mate!
The bit about sizing is absolutely correct, especially for people with shorter legs or longer legs. For example, I’m 176cm which falls into Trek’s size 56 (rider from 174-180cm), but again that’s based on people’s inseam length rather than actual height. My inseam is shorter than average and as well as my arms. So instead of 56cm, 52cm fits me the best. But this would be impossible to tell from a first time buyer and they could potentially be wasting a lot of money on a frame that can lead to injury and not comfortable to ride.
Quick question if you dont mind: I am 183cm tall and appearently have very short legs (I did not ever notice before lol), my inseam is 81,5-82 cm. On those numbers, the homepage of willier recommended the large variant which is 52 at willier. Now, someone I know said no one over 180cm should ever ride under 55. I am confused lol
Just the opposite here. I am right at 188cm (6'2") I have been riding Trek bikes for over 35 years and I know what fits and what feels right to me. On a Trek road bike my size has always been 60cm. Anything less the seat is up too high (and at times run out of seatpost ) the reach is too short, feel cramped and I am waaaaay too bent over to the handlebars to feel comfortable. My arms are longer then most, my inseam slightly shorter than most for my height , and my torso ( upper body ) is somewhat longer than most for my height.
The point I am trying to make is ride what feels the best for you. For me, smaller frames just dont cut it. i also like 175mm crank arm length. Too long for most, just right for me.
The guidance in the video is totally on point. I'd like to share my experience with purchasing and dialing in a new road bike from about a year ago. Prior to buying the bike, I was vacillating between buying a frame and building it up vs. just buying a complete bike. I already had a 15+ year old road bike that I was fit on to base some decisions with, so I compared the geometry to what I was buying and figured I was good to go with buying a pre-built bike. Well, eh, sort of. After buying the bike I quickly realized that the stem was too short, even though the "reach" measurement reported by the manufacturer was similar to my old bike. What I discovered was that the stem on my old bike, while it was labeled 100mm, was actually quite a bit longer than this and didn't really compare to the 100mm stem on the new bike. My bike fitter had also said I would benefit from wider bars, so I swapped the bars too. I also wasn't in love with the saddle that came with the bike, so I swapped that for a 3D printed one (it works really, really well for me, I've never been so happy with a saddle). The last item was the crankset, which I deliberated over for the first 9 months of riding the bike. The bike came with a 52/36 + 11/30 set up. I could make it work, but even as a reasonably strong rider, I knew I was going to be better off with a compact (50/34) chainring set up with all the (steep) hills in my area. After putting it off all that time, I finally broke down and ordered a new crankset, and then quickly kicked myself for waiting so long to do it because it was immediately apparent how much better the bike was with it. I was able to sit (a lot) more on longer climbs and the new crankset (along with a swap to 700x32 tires) made the bike much more effective on the gravel sections I mix into some of my rides. So ~$1,200 in component changes later, the bike is pretty much perfect. Would I have been better off buying a frame and building it up from scratch? Maybe. The frame I wanted (note, I will only ride a bike with a threaded BB, so this limited my options to a few manufacturers) is sold standalone only in its highest end form, so I think I still came out ahead in terms of value for money. With that said, having a "curated" ride with handpicked components would have been pretty sweet.
Darn. I wish I'd seen this in Sept 21 when I started along this glorious road. I *Literally* made ever mistake possible from shoe size to bike fit after purchase. I will say that cycling as a thing does creep up on you somewhat. If you'd have told me last August that in about 3 months I'd be utterly obsessed with cycling I'd have laughed, I was still murdering my poor middle aged knees on a bi-daily run. And even once discovered It took about 6 months of exceedingly slippery slopery to realize this was going to be a (big) part of my life going forward and by then all the errors had been made... Ho hum. Time to book in a retrospective bike fit with James and hope he doesn't give me a bollocking 8)
Same! My knees started to hurt and once i found a group to ride with i got hooked.
After buying a bike, I still do a 4km run once/week, but bike is much more common, and indeed my knees feels better (they kinda "relax" during cycling) :)
@@Rufgaudas yeah I do the same. Though perhaps every other week. My knees feel so much better even when running these days (lower frequency perhaps?) But it's nice to mix up the excersize a bit...
Haha I am in there early stages of this. Only rod my vintage road bike 3 times and I have been obsessing every moment since. Can't imagine what upgrading to a modern bike is going to feel like
I'm a runner who cycles a bit. If you train sensibly and regularly, knee pain (and other issues) with running disappears fairly quickly.
I’m a 51 year old woman, I’m getting back into cycling, I just bought the Trek Domane AL 3. I absolutely love it. I just got my hip replaced in April. I rode 26 miles yesterday. It’s so comfortable and easy to ride. I’m 5.8 and I have a 52 inch.
It’s usually men who mix up centimetres with inches😅
😂😂😂😂
James and his team are damn good. Best decision I ever made was going to him. Sorted out so many issues and kept me riding.
Really enjoyed this one. For someone who is not into drop bar/racing/gravel/endurance bikes I can say that there should be a bike fitting market for us folks who ride hybrids/commuter bikes and normal shoes. I ride a Trek Allant+5 and it’s the most uncomfortable bike I have ever had. On my 3rd saddle, 2nd stem, and have 2 handlebars on order.
You can say that again. I can't imagine myself on a drop-bar
I agree - Colnago geometry is classic and superior. The larger head tube eliminates spares and yet allows the hips to open up.
I'd also add the suggestion of considering summer and winter shoes, fitted for the thickness of socks you're likely to be wearing in that season. It took a few years, but I've now gone to having winter shoes that are 45 instead of 44 because I trade out thin cycling socks for medium weight wool once the frost comes.
Needing to ride a bike in winter wearing wool socks, unless you are living above the polar circle, would strongly suggest you have a serious issue with peripheral circulation. Maybe it's time to visit the cardiologist instead of a bike fitter.
I just went to Ultegra because I am middle adged and having the buying power :) Wanted a new bike and upgraded to carbon middle class and they just come with Ultegra. But I was having good fun with my 105 aluminum endurance bike and honestly it is all I would need. I stayed on mechanical because it is easier to maintain. Generally speaking I think investing in better wheels is much more benefit than upgrading group set for recreational drivers. Almost every bike in entry and lower middle class (up to €5000) usually comes with very basic wheel set. And I think the geometry part is also overrated. Every endurance bike from a major manufacturer should be basically ok if one knows how to measure frame size correctly. Just look for a relaxing stack to reach factor of around 1.5.
So I rode my bike to work 4 days a week and raced in local races. Got pretty good. Then 6-7 years in my neck pain was so bad I just quit biking straight up. Just recently I started researching neck pain and bike fitting and it led me to your channel. God I wish I knew this stuff when I started. Also, I wish I could go to Richmond and get a bike fit with you. I do have a bike fit here in Arizona, place called cyclologic. It’s in about a week and I can’t wait. I’m cautiously optimistic that maybe I can go back to biking pain free. I loved biking and I miss it.
Bottom line, thank you both for all you do. Keep it up because you are educating and reaching people around the world. Best from Phoenix Arizona!
Say hi to Paraic 👋🏻
Best of luck for the bike fit Robert, it's a shame you had to quit because of injury, I hope CycloLogic sorts you out.
@James nice to see you lurking in the comments! It gave me a laugh to pop up your profile and see your recent comment on this channel was 'that's what she said'. A master of comedy as always 😁
@@Bikefitjames I sure will. Thank you so much for the reply James 🙂
How's the pain a year later?
@@MarioBecerraCit was definitely better and the fit helped. I think what also helped a ton was stretching and strengthening exercises. Just realizing I’m not 21 anymore and that i have to be diligent about doing the right things helped me ride again. Sorry for the late reply
With bikes being nearly impossible to purchase in-store, videos like this are invaluable.
As someone who is currently suffering on a bike purchased online i'll definitely be booking a slot with James at the end of the year.
I wish there was a good way of evaluating bike fitters without spending a few hundred per fit and going to multiple...
Very tempted to book a flight to the UK...
Any recommendations for bike fitters in Switzerland?
Which bike did you buy?
@@kellrockets101 I bought a bmc road machine secondhand and it seems to fit me perfectly
@@defipunk I've had a saddle fit done at Velo Plus in Zürich Oerlikon a couple of weeks ago and am super happy with the result. Might give them a try.
The attitude and tone of that bike shop owner sums up the snide undercurrent of superiority than turns many off of cycling…
Best video ever..... Someone actually said 105 Are a great group set ,and you do not need to spend the big money on the top group sets to go fast. Put a little money into your feet, and think 🤔 they only hit the dam puddles....
I've been cycling for about 50 years now and I can't believe how much I've learned from BFT. I've been riding various Time frames in the last 14 years, getting closeouts and gently used bikes. Fantastic frames. I always build my own bikes. I was 6'-1.5" but have shrunk to nearly 6' now. I started with a 57cm but have been on 55.5 for the last 10 years. All Times have relatively tall headtubes. My Scylon is the raciest (w/ Record Mech), and the Fluidity (w/ Potenza) by far the most comfortable. Honestly the Potenza which is newer, works better than the Record. Fortunately my seat height has been close to right from the start. I did assume I was like most and had it too high. I ended up with hip soreness and once I returned to the old height it got better again. I thought I had wide feet when actually I'm quite medium. I had been upsizing (oops). I used the Lake site and precisely measured my feet and ended up with the 238 regulars. I bought the G8 insoles from James and was shocked to find I needed the No.4 arch. I realize now, my foot and saddle problems were all due to shoe fit issues. In fact, I was able to find a cache of 10 pairs of G8 1800 for $85US, 3/4 length insoles to equip all of my shoes (not just cycling shoes). The other biggest change for me came from lever position. I had been mounting the hoods horizontal instead of slightly up. As a result even my Time long reach bars now work fine as I was able to really mount them high on the curve. Coming from track racing I was already used to narrower bars so the 40 c-c bars were already the right width. Also I've used 165 on the track and 170 on the road for the last 40 years so I think I got that one right. I did have to reduce the stem length to 100 from 110. I've looked for fitters in the Chicago area, but I've never met any that use the Hogg methods so I've had to resort to James and Neal Stansbury in Australia and DIY it. If I'm ever in London, I will definitely come by and see if I'm still doing it wrong. For now, this 63 year old is still going fast, but now with more comfort and efficiency. Thanks James.
Nice to hear some good feedback on Potenza. There's not much talk about it, but it's the one I'd go for when next building a bike. How many miles do you have on it? My 105 worked great, but after 15,000km it became really sloppy. Miss my old Centaur.
@@craigwilson118 I bought it used and it was said to have 500 miles on it. I’ve got another 500 of mostly on hard smooth gravel. It’s been discontinued so used is the route. FYI I spent about $400usd no brakes in the set. I had some 90s era Chorus that I’m using. Very smooth and solid group.
I have been on road bikes for over 30 years now. Back then there was a big difference between 105 and Ultegra/Dura Ace but as of today? 105 is just an awesome set and miles better of what it was 30 years ago. Really awesome guid here, well done.
Merida Scultura Endurance. Great bike. Can ride all day.
No, having some fancies on my bike doesn’t make me go faster. But it does make me want to go more often …
I thought merida's endurance frame is the ride? I rode a Scultura once and if sized correctly it's about as aggressive as a caad 10. I only needed a 130mm -17 stem instead of the usual 140mm but Cannondale just has a short reach in general.
Great video, hitting all the critical sweet spots in making the most important cycling purchase decisions!
James is so right about current lower end group sets being as good as older top of the line. Current sora, and acera group sets are as good if not better than my 1990 dura ace with the original sti brifters. For my style of riding now I don't need to spend the money on the latest and greatest.
I wish more people recognized that "low end" groupsets now are great.
be carefull not to buy too small bike after watching this video. getting smaller bikes means the head tube is shorter, dropping your handle bar lower and closer to you !!! Also, your foot might be hitting your wheel, when you pedal and turn at the same time... Also, you need to have good balance on bike when you go uphill, flat, and downhill too. What is a problem with too short bikes, you dont have enough support on the front when you go down the hill, because everything is so close to you !!! And then you need to jump on brakes...
Also, don't get too large a bike, with a smaller bike you can at least stick a longer stem on, but sticking a shorter stem on a larger bike can make it twitchy to ride.
Bmx guys all ride bikes that are at least two sizes too small for them. They never have a problem going downhill ? bikes that are too small might be uncomfortable but bikes that are too big are outright dangerous for the health of the rider. Given a choice between the two, it's probably better to choose too small rather than too large.
@@longdang2681 what about choosing the right size for your person, not smaller, and not bigger too : )
@@agstudioband getting the correct size would be best. What if you are unsure what is the correct size? A smaller bike can usually be extended to fit more comfortably. If it can't be extended to fit comfortably, it usually won't have as serious health implications if you ride around, trying to figure out which bike size would match your riding style and stature. It was pointed out if there is a sizing problem, currently it's more likely too big rather than too small. So too small is less common and it poses less of a health threat if it did occur. Wouldn't it be more appropriate to warn people to be careful of listening to the bike industries current hype and buy a bike that is too big for you?
@@longdang2681 yes sure, but i am meeting people who are selling their bikes, not only because it is large to them but also because it is small and they look for bigger size. I would say its 80 - 20 %
I love these videos, although they raise lots of questions for me as a cyclist, physiotherapist and scientist (professor) - the claims made are based on a static riding position/bike fit. Even those professional athletes spoken about at the beginning of the video do not actually “maintain” a position (maybe more so timetrialling) if we look at you and particularly James on your videos riding you are never in a set position on a bike/saddle/handlebar - maybe a clipped in foot is(although most people utilise the float if possible). If you ride over an hour your position will change due to hysteresis and creep, no one sits on and pedals a bike/rig for the length of time they are in that position - I could go on - I respect what you are both doing but would love the opportunity to chat over these things with you both - I am local to Richmond.
I think the important point is that you feel comfortable from the beginning. Regardless of how many times you shift your body position during the ride you can gaurantee that if you are not comfortable at kilometer zero, then it will be worse after 1 hour and worse after 2 hours and so on.
But your bike is still a fixed and static object? If the bars are too far away, someone can't reach them comfortably. If the saddle is too high, pedals are too far away. You can try bend further, or stretch those little legs (in my case anyway), but then you might get a sore back or saddle sores. The purpose of the bike fit seems to essentially be for someone with specialised equipment to measure how far you can reach comfortably. Hence why the videos usually feature old mate James and his jig. It seems really straightforward in principle actually. You put someone on the jig, and you move things around till you find where they're comfortable and where they aren't. Then you get your measurements and aim for a bike that falls within the range.
@@guppyitsallgood of course those things have to be approximately in the right place but the point I am making is that if we are careful we actually do what James argues against and make the person fit the bike not the bike fit the person I.e they believe that there is one ideal set position and actually attempt to maintain that rather than be dynamic in relation to it.
@@michaelcheng6469 and I reckon that most people who are comfortable at km zero would according to James be on the wrong bike? - you have people replying here that they are now worried they are on the wrong bike but the question is are they having any issues!
@@dibbygibby at this point I feel like you're just looking for someone to argue semantics with. I don't think your comment was particularly clear, but I think there is an ideal position, at least theoretically. Power delivery and aerodynamics can be optimised. The only question left is can comfort be optimised? And I imagine at least to a certain extent, it can. If you've got a bunch of money to spend on a brand new bike, it does seem reasonable to try get a picture of what would make you generally most comfortable.
I was a competitive kayaker, and I think anyone who has competed in these kinds of disciplines can recognise the benefit in filming and optimising your action (whether paddling or pedalling). I spent time working on, and making observable gains by maintaining an ideal position and motion. Sure the average person riding a bike might not have much to gain, but at the prices they are, it's not really aimed at someone riding their comfy commuter or a cruise around the park is it? There's only one way it's worth it. You ride enough K's, hard enough.
Maybe you should pay for a bike fit with him and give us an independent review, I'd watch it.
For me the balance test was a really defining moment. I am 170cm tall and have gone through 3 bikes and 60mm stems just to find out I should ride a 49cm after a balance test at home. And in my country there's no road bikes on stock til who knows when. So I'll stay away from the stem police until I can get my hands on a 49.
I don't like being ignorant, but I've not heard of a balance test, can you give a brief explanation? I'm heading to Google now, by the way...
Fantastic video! Glad to hear James rides a 52/53. I recently bought a small and am so glad I did.
James is probably the most intense guy on UA-cam :-) Fortunately he's extremely well versed in his subject!
As a former bike shop worker (Procurement) we used the same ethos as in this video, I'm glad we werent the only independent bike shop to do so! Great content, thank you.
So happy I found bikefit-james before buying my second bike. First one was waaay to big and I almost quit cycling because it was hard to sit on it for more than 1 hour
This is one of the best of these videos you've made Francis. James is the ace up your jersey sleeve, his knowledge and presentation is properly top notch. Can you ask him how many pairs of Lakes he thinks he has sold? He's a great salesman, he could sell Brexit to James O'Brien 👍👍
I'm 6'3-6'4 and I'm riding an XL Endurace and James is making me think I'm on an oversize bike now 🤔
XL is such a broad definition. anything from 58 to 62 can be described as XL
@@agstudioband R056 Canyon Endurace AL 8.0 Disc
Stack 634
Reach 407
Top tube length 595
Seat tube length 592
@@buddhahat are you noticing any difficulties riding your bike ?
@@buddhahat I am 6"2 and currently my bike frame is 60.
Stack 582 (but rised up with negative stem +5 degrees and dropbars turned up a little bit, i might be on 620 now)
Reach 392
Top tube 560
i use only 90 mm stem, which i consider to be minimum on road bike. You might need shorter one too. But it depends on length of your arms.
I'm the same height. It's crazy trying to get a bike that is a proper fit according to what I have learned from these bike fit videos
Same with me with sizing . I wear size small tops and a lot of bike charts suggest size Small as I am 168cm in height. I have ridden XS and even XXS bikes and they both fit better than size Small. In fact every size Small bike I have ridden the reach is too long and can't be corrected even with a 80mm stem which is wrong anyway on that size frame. Some bike charts do recommend XS and XXS small though and some Small . It's very easy to buy a frame that doesn't fit from following size charts.
Would you recommend a gravel bike for most (non racing/competitive) riders? Given the geometry is more relaxed in the way the rider interacts with the bike. The more robust build, wider tires ,and "easier" gearing also seem to be more appropriate for fitness/health concerned riders.
I’m wondering the same thing as @chris Myers if gravel bikes better for non competitive riding but better posture for fitness/fun/health as I’m shopping for a bike these days. Been considering Trek, Canyon, Specialized, under between $1500-2000 if that’s a good range for beginner into this world.
I live in the Los Angeles area. Anyone James/anyone can recommend would be so appreciated. Thank you
But its 2 kg heavier and honestly pricing of gravel bikes is so hyped. I dont understand why. If you plan riding on roads most of the time, gravel is not good. If you plan riding offroad you may want gravel. But mtb gives you more variety offroad.
I didn't get into the gravel thing. I have one, but I'm selling it soon.
But in general, I think they are great alternatives to an endurance bike.
James is needed more man xxxxx we need a regular show an local events with James an the shop...
I wish I had seen this year's ago when I started out. Spot on. Get fitted for a bike and shoes first. I sunk a small fortune into shoes, bib and saddles and quite frankly was miserable with constant chafing, aching shoulders and neck. Wrong size bikes. Until finally I got a bloody fit and got both sorted out. That fit has served me well. My shoes are all Lakes now!
Another thing I see a quite a few people mess up, is knowing (having a realistic estimate of) what maintenance will cost. Some folks around me with low income that are riding completely worn dura-ace/ultegra/SRAM red chains/sprockets that are skipping under load, or won't shift reliably simply because they can't really afford to change the parts after buying an extremely expensive (often financed) bike.
They get into it all happy, go on lots of rides, and then after 6-12 months you don't really see them anymore because they don't enjoy riding an unreliable bike, and are still paying off the bike itself, causing them to not have money to maintain it and replace worn parts.
I don't get how bike shops can sell someone a "first" road bike and talk them into getting a 8-10k euro one when the customer needs to finance it.
How people spend more than 8k Euro on a bike yet they are not professional is just baffling for me
@@elijahogolah1497 Over here most bike shops are more like "Bike sellers" they aim for selling them, and not maintaining them or keeping their customers.
I've gone into one when I was on vacation in a different city (where they didn't know me) and asked about a commuter bike.
And they basically go for the "you need to get the best of the best, otherwise you'll have a crap experience" take on it.
Then they had 2 bikes with similar setups, 1 electronic shifting, and 1 without. The one without clearly wasn't indexed properly, and had the chain skip between the gears, and the electric one was perfect of course. But according to the guy there, that's why electronic shifting is superior, and you absolutely need it, cable operated shifters are crap.
Anyway, apparently for a 35 km (one way) commute you need a carbon frame, carbon deep wheels, high end groupset, electronic shifting.. Basically a bike a pro cyclist would use. I was kinda disappointed he didn't wanna throw in ceramic bearings..
Apparently commuting 70 km a day can't be done on my 22 KG steel bike with 3x7 tourney setup. I can't believe I never realized that in all these years.. 😁
I'd prefer my
Same can be said about cars. I see clapped out Mercedes all the time. People want the logo, don't look at how much a new set of brake pads is.
Same reason people spend $100,000 on a sports car, and never go to the track @@elijahogolah1497
Frame sizing have been ruined by compact frames rising in popularity. I'm 6.1 and with clasic diamond shape frame i was just fine with 58. Proportions of frame looks just spot on. Bike with me looks spot on, received compliments near red lights many times. Actual top tube is 575mm. Never had any pain on long rides. Later got compact geometry 57 size roadie, which have actual top tube lenght of same 575mm. Compact somehow feels larger in every dimension exept weight. Maybe becaus lately got injured while hiking, or fall from motorcycle added also. But now with compact roadie i get knee pain in left knee. After 4 hours i get pain. Next day after 3 hours pain asking me to stop. Dont know whats realy wrong. Tried to adjust seat hight by few milimiters but with such adjustments i have to do at least 100km ride evere weekend which is not always possible. Stem is slammed... But im slim, never had problem with that. Also hate those FLOW saddles .. yes, soft tissue feels maybe more happy with that, but overall i get swell on one side sitbone after long ride .. Dunno. For me Selle Italia Turbo or versions of it, is greatest saddle ever.... Also compact frame looks ugly even if other consider my new bike stylish. Plus 1.5 kilos weight saving on bicycle means nothing in real riding speeds. Wide tyres feel more slugish even if they remove alot of road buzz. And 42 wide drops feels to wide even if my shoulders should let this width, but old bicycle have 40cm handlebar which feels more comfortable. Maybe I'm just getting old....
I've just ordered a Giand Defy Advanced 2 and whilst I really enjoyed this video and could see the perfect sense in the advice, the realities of buying a bike these days makes a lot of it impractical. 13 months ago I ordered a similar model from Ribble and the original delivery date was put back 5 times and a total of around six months before I cancelled the order. I bought the Giant from stock in Edinburgh but it was the last size 54 they had. My point is that it's so hard to get your first choice of bike nowadays that the only option can be to grab what you can whilst you can and then do the necessary adjustments when you get it.
Sadly this is true
If it makes you feel any better, I ordered a a Defy Advanced 2 completely unseen (for the reasons you outline above) last year and (after waiting 9 months for delivery) have loved every minute of it!
@@worland9 You have made me feel better Joe, thanks. However I'll feel better still if it turns up on Wednesday 3 August as promised. What do you like about it especially if I may ask?
@@zoothornrollo9960 It's incredibly versatile - I can do fast group rides with the club one day, and hop onto side paths and light gravel another. The 32mm tubeless setup feels puncture proof and super comfortable but feels perfectly fast enough when needed. Enjoy!
@@worland9 I was hoping you would confirm these features. Many thanks Joe.
One of the most important facts that most cycling channels miss is, do you actually need dura-ace, or even ultegra or even 105 Di 2. For a average rider do you even need the latest model of a groupset unless there is some very significant changes like some failing part in the previous model is now made of better materials.
The answer is definitely no!
Definitely not, I have claris r2000 and it's really reliable. The average everyday rider doesn't need top end groupsets.
nobody needs it, but if you can afford it and having a top spec bike you hyped and motivated to ride then i dont see any reason not to.
Fair comment, but I’m 50 and a bit fat but love my Tamac SL7 race bike. It’s comfy to ride and I get a real buzz from knowing it’s almost the same as the bike the pros ride. No need for the pogo stick handlebars or the ugly endurance geometry!
I’m getting ready to buy a Cannondale SuperSix Evo 3. I’m 6’1 and I’ve been riding a 56 Dogma 2. The top tube on the Cannondale seems to be true to 56 size. I’m going to measure it in the shop. Also you’ve convinced me to buy new shoes as well. Great video!
You know, this video helped me a ton! I know people that I ride with an we're not racers. We're just endurance adventure cyclist. Some of them got bikes that range in 5k or more. They even upgraded their wheels and tires. I have a Domane SL 5 2021, and I love it. I still have the same wheels and tires. Haven't done anything to it, and we're riding the same pace. I don't understand why some people buy these super bikes and expensive gears if they're not professional races. I just don't understand it at all. Maybe it motivates them or something. But I'm glad I researched what type of bike there were and what I wanted before I went shelling money on a bike just because it's expensive.
Great videos and obvious James speaks from great knowledge and experience. That said, his comment on bike sizing really surprises me as the implication is that frame sizes of 58+ are for folk who are 6'4+. I'm 6'2" but with long inseam so needed a 60cm Domane as I was at the limit of the seatpost in the 58cm. I did have a general fitting and my seat height wasn't said to be 20mm too high and I'm sure any lower wouldn't be ideal so it's obviously down to individual sizing. I have needed to fit a shorter stem to reduce the reach but given the endurance fit it feels fine and I can ride on the hoods no problem.
Thanks Francis and James......I wish id known a lot of this 4 years ago.....eh ? I have learned most of what I know from watching you , and others like you , on UA-cam...I still love to ride , no matter what !
Definitely agree that almost everyone should be riding an endurance bike. I got a Scott Addict this year and it is so much more comfortable than my previous bike (Merida Reacto) - especially on 100K+ rides. I am able to keep up fine on group rides with guys who have racing bikes, slammed stems, etc. And I’ve still got the drops, so I can get reasonably aero when I need to. Sure if you’re serious about racing you probably want to get something with a more aggressive geometry - but for me I’m just looking to get out and have fun and get in a good workout, and it’s a lot more fun when you’re not in pain.
Agree 1000% with this video. I bought a trek emonda size 58 because thats what the guy suggested to me according to the size chart. Im 183 so im in the middle range of 58 according to the chart but afterwards went for a bike fitting and the only solution was to short the stem and get a short saddle to make it work….
A lot of good pointers here. Like James and with his advice, I’ve tried comfier handlebars, cranks, seats, shoes and honestly it’s a night and day difference to a stock bike experience and especially one that doesn’t fit. I go to stores that press me on buying a 54 when I know im closer to a 50. Consumers have to do a lot of homework before purchase. It’s a shame but extremely worth it once it clicks.
It's great that James is so convincing, now i know i'm not crazy. The manufacturer's site keeps telling me i need a size L, but taking a closer look at the geometry, their size M is almost as big as my current bike (which feels slightly too big already).
makes sense.. You get custom trousers, you get measured first.. Made to measure pants always fit and looks better then altered to size ones..
James is amazing and I agree with almost everything he says, however some brand sizing is just odd. I've a Cube endurance bike in size 58, and a Kona cross bike in size 54, and they both fit great (and are surprisingly close in measurements). So check (at a minimum) the stack and reach before you buy (after your fitter has told you what ballpark you want those numbers to be in).
One extra quick thing to look at, is seeing which size stem they put on some models. Another one is offset seatposts. Combine the two and suddenly with the same reach on the specsheet, buying a bike from a different brand can still give a 3CM difference. Handlebar reach is also a big one, where some Trek bikes still come with 100mm reach vs 75ish on other branch, so despite seemingly having a tiny reach on the frame, the Trek ones can still be just as long.
Kona is famous for being big
@@Adanteh crank length as well
Which Cube bike you drive?
I do enjoy James 'cumberbatch' on your channel. soooo much common sense advice from him (and you Francis) is really refreshing..... I've got 8 bikes .... but before I buy #9 I'll deffo get a bike fit. promise!
For the first part of the video i'd have to quote James' "It depends on the needs of the individual". Sure, generally speaking it makes a lot of sense, however for me endurance bikes are WAAAY to short or too high. I'd be bashing my knee on the handlebars or would be sitting more upright than in my car. My torso is just relatively tall for my leg length.
anyway, just get a fit and work from there.
Wise Words. I'm just over 6'2" and I mainly ride a 56cm Basso Diamante. I certainly wouldn't want the reach to be anymore drawn out than it is.
When I was 11-14 old, I was a member of one of the local sport clubs in Budapest. We were out there on the road, riding 5 times a week, and we did most of the races we could go to. Don't ask me how many kilometers I've done - we were so poor I didn't even have my own bike, but had to ride the ones that were lent out by the club to me and thus I didn't even have a computer with an odometer... And the track days/track races were done with the club's own bikes as well... But in all those years my lower back, my feet and my b*tt was hurting... I always dreamt of having a road bike that was fun to ride. I can't even imagine how different those years could have been, if I would have had a bike that fit me :(
Fantastic video, I'm looking for a bike - and now know sizing is not as simple as measuring my inside leg - you've probably just saved me a fortune in a buying a mis-sized bike. Will use a chunk of budget on bike fit and shoes first. Thanks guys!
Funny 😢 I've clearly suffered from reach as a beginner. Told to get a bike fit knowing my bike would never fit. It was a very good value intro which I still have while I'm looking for the next. But I realised the sizes quoted still put me at risk of spending 2k and being in exactly the same spot! So refreshing to hear this get a fit without a bike. Anyone in cambs do that?
Francis - interested in what James had to say regarding the amount of things he would change on a new bike without even riding it first. For those of us that don't own a bike shop or have a sponsorship deal, would you/James therefore say that building up a frame from scratch was a better way of getting the "right" bike rather than buying off the peg and changing out so many key components? Presumably it would be more cost effective?
Given the amount of people with cash to spare that 'upgrade' their bike and sell the old one second hand... I've built a couple of bikes with a heavy focus on second hand bits. Just have to be a bit careful around second hand carbon. The amount of deals out there are pretty phenomenal once you start looking. Even things like getting my pink bar tape from 60NZD down to 10NZD because it had never sold at the LBS. The guy at the counter even scoffed a bit when I walked up with two packs. Mate, if pink bar tape scares you off that kind of discount...
I bought my first racing bike from a shop nearby and they changed all the parts like that for me with no extra cost - I imagine not every shop will do this, but the good ones will.
@@Cade_Media Thanks Francis - part 2 of my question now. Can you persuade my wife I need another bike?😂
@@Cade_Media When I bought my Scott Addict and wanted a different cassette, the shop made me pay extra. Im sure it would be the same if you were changing chainset or bars/saddle. Most manufacturers (and therefore dealers) dont offer a custom built option, which is essentially what you're asking for if you want a shorter crank, or different cassette or whatever
@@Cade_Media That’s a shop to mark as a favorite. I can’t see that happening near me sadly. Nickel and diming all the way to the bank. 😕
Why is Campagnolo never talked about nor used on Francis’ channel?
💸💰
It was in this video...
I'm just never around it 🤷
They don't sponsor a lot of youtube content.
@@orsations no groupset manufacturers sponsor any of my content.
My first road bike was a Domane AL2 frame 61. My height is 6'0 and good looord I was soo stretched out. My neck was hurting, wrists were hurting and generally after a 1000km I said it's pointless. Worst of all, it was sold to me in a respected bike shop telling me it fits perfectly. I hope there's a special place in hell for this kind of sales people.
Now I got a 56 frame and with some adjustments it feels so much better.
61???? WFT I like to be "stretched" and use a 58 at 72 inches.
That is what makes me nervous about going to a local bike shop. Called one and asked what is involved in a bike fit for them. "Bring your bike in and we will adjust the saddle." Wouldn't even talk about fit for a new bike. This is supposed to be a trek certified or recommended fitter.
@@fredbecker607 man, I'm not going to be a wise a*s here, but only reasonable advice I can think of is to go for a fit that is done by a pro physiotherapist. I know it's not cheap, but it's probably for the best.
@@kbodzioch And that's the problem, people expect the bike shops to fit you, but it NOT a simple process. Bike shops can get you close, but I live in a area of 2 million people and there are 2 fitters that I would recommend. Will typically set you back $2-300, but given what we spend on the bikes....
I bought my first bike from a Trek dealer (Summit Bikes in Burlingame, CA), and they spent a lot of time doing a proper fit. It wasn’t even an expensive bike - it was one level above their cheapest model. They also did free maintenance on the bike for life - and took great care of me for years until I moved away.
Unfortunately I’ve found that the quality of service varies a lot from store to store, and as a beginner you don’t really know enough to tell if the person at the local bike shop knows what they’re talking about. There are no shops in my current city that I really trust - and have basically just had to learn to service my bike by myself.
Absolutely fantastic video guys. I bought a new bike this year and now am dealing with Lake Shoes in Toronto to assist with my short wide feet. I bought G8's and am loving them so your videos have really helped.
Great tips! Come at the right time, since I´m making up my mind on what road bike to get after 18+ years urban riding.
This guy always makes me feel like I'm being told off by a copper
LOL same here!!!
Yeah, he talks like a stereotypical banker in West London. Love it! ❤️
@@Goproafterdark probably got the cash of banker too 🙈🙈🙈
He reminds me strongly of Hugh Laurie, from Black Adder. 😅
@@paintingsofwaves_mikewoning Yeah totally him!!
Yes geometry is a minefield brand to brand, last time I was advised by a shop I test rode a 61cm Roubaix, I'm 6ft 3. So I've taken the info from my bike fit with James to piece together a new steed.
I want to make sure you don't get me wrong, I grew up riding road bikes old school, today I love my mountain bike a whole new discipline.
thanks for the advise, most bike heads can ride any bike with various adjustments, saddle height etc, if you are not racing anywhere , have seen some tall guys using bike too small for them -by just increasing the saddle height.
and the seem happy.
Mentioning the groupset options is probably most important in terms of the bike itself. People will try to buy the best they can, but don't realize that they aren't getting something that will dramatically improve their performance on a bike. The other part that should be mentioned is the cost of part replacement. I use to run SRAM Red, but after damaging a rear derailleur I "downgraded" to Force because it was a third to half the cost for replacement parts.
Interesting... I'm going to be buying a bike in the not too distant future and your (well James') words of wisdom are always a help
Ecxellent advice!. I'm seeking a new bike and plan to get a fitment done. I went into my file cabinet and found the fitment I did 20 years ago to compare against new methods, geometry and bio-mechanics thinking. Things have definately gravitated towards smaller frames with the advent of TCR style frames.(RIP Mike Burrows)
I'm also 5'10" and I ride a medium. I have a mate who is 5'8" and also rides a medium. His saddle is below his handlebars. I can't get through to him.
Also, Shimano should keep Tiagra when they start swallowing everything into CUES. Tiagra is an excellent groupset and is better than Dura-Ace from 2009, or ultegra from 2012, or 105 from as recently as 2020.
I really appreciate all the information you gents provide in all your videos. Thank you!
Love these videos, errrrrrrrrerrrr James is errrrrrrrrrrr great to listen to
Cheers simon
Excellent and informative as always. This channel is extremely hard to beat ✊🏾👊🏾
I think these videos are helping more people than you can imagine. Awesome content as always. Cheers from Mexico!
Impressed am I - best informational clip I have ever seen on choosing the right bike!
Many great points there for people starting!
I have an entry level bike with a Claris drivetrain and TRP disc brakes that has been great. Been wanting to upgrade to a 1x drivetrain for a more gravel oriented gearing and more powerful brakes but can't justify the cost because the Claris symply just continues to work, 1600km so far and only nedded to replace a chain.
Didn't realise how much variation there is in top tube length as I've always gone by down tube sizing. I'm generally good at getting the correct fitment on my bikes but will definitely pay attention more to top tube length as well. Cheers for the info.
Also, make sure you are looking at virtual top tube length ( measured horizontally). With most bikes having sloped top tubes, the actual is shorter than the virtual.
A discussion on crank length would be great, seems like they are all to long. When in the drops my legs hit my chest, but being taller a bike will come with long arms.
Bigger rider == Longer cranks??
That’s why I got a Focus Cayo as it was great value and looks cool and fits perfectly.by upgrading the wheels etc I can easy drop the weight by over half a kilo
I would have saved a small fortune if James had made this video 20 something years ago but it’s never to late to be informed many thanks !
105 is the better investment always, unless the budget is more limited, if the budget do allow for Ultegra, the shifting is a bit crisper, and feels very good, but not night and day difference from 105 in performance. Unless you are just arriving home from a very long bike race in France right now, Dura-Ace is a bit of an overkill.
Can't book a coffee. It's so weird after all these videos to hear that, but I get it. Randoms who have seen your videos tons of times just showing up "I have an appointment ???"
Tons of good advice, especially for party pace riders like me.
I wish I'd seen this video 7 months ago when I bought my bike, but even after, I know I made the right purchase. I ended up buying a Roubaix Comp in size 49 after lusting for months for a Canyon Endurace. Why? Because it was available. How did I know a 49 would be right for me? I took measurements with my old bike, a Trek Hybrid, and the closest ones were of the 49 for Specialized and the 2XS for Canyon. (I'm 5'6'' with around a 28-29"(73cm) inseam). But definitely get fitted beforehand, because with cycling, costs snowball anyway, and what's another $150-200 in the grand scheme?
As for electronic groupsets, NO, we don't need them at all, but when you finally experience one, they're something else. I love my SRAM Rival!
But the part of this video that made me laugh out loud was when James started talking about shoes and said: "you scoff at 300 pounds for shoes and then spend 3k on wheels". That's the next thing I need to get because although I love my $100 Shimano shoes, I know there's more comfort to be had there and I'm going to have to make that next investment there and only there, even before upgrading the wheels. Thanks guys, cheers!
i am 5'9" with 31" inseam and feel great on 54/55cm frames. 49cm seems super small, but if it works for you that is all that matters.
@@adrianc6534 It does seem small, but when I stand over the top tube in front of the saddle, I can only lift my bike about an inch off the ground. I'm only 5'6" because I have a long neck, very strange indeed. But a 52" would have been too big for me. I still wanna get a bike fit to dial it in better and make up for some lack of flexibility and a still weak core.
I used a sizing calculator on a very popular bike site and no matter what height I put in they just gave me the exact same frame size - designed for a 6ft+ person, and I'm nowhere near that. Methinks they're trying to shift some inventory!
Excellent advice and video. I wish your shop was in NYC so that I can get the right bike for myself who's older and wants a decent no nonsense road bike.
Vote 🗳 for the Canyon endurace (if it fits you). love it and easy to buy the right size bar width stem etc after a fit
James on his race bike soapbox again. "Don't buy that Ferrari, you're not a good enough driver and you won't fit all your shopping in"
If riding the same bike as a pro makes you happy and excited about riding, do it. Don't worry about whether or not you can maintain the appropriate torso angle.
Besides, it's not 2010. Race bikes are so much more compliant and comfortable than they used to be and lots of so called endurance bikes are very racy these days.
I don't believe that if you are in agony riding a race bike that the small increase in comfort from an endurance bike is suddenly gonna cure all your fit problems.
Well said. I’ve amassed over a period of time an endurance-ish road bike (size 53, Bianchi) a racy gravel bike (51, Cervelo) and a full on road bike (52, Specialized). They are all a decent fit but the road bike is, to my constant surprise, easily the most comfortable over all distances - even for shock absorption. To Tom’s point, it’s the one I enjoy blatting around on the most and is the quickest, no doubt because I feel quicker on it and therefore ride that way (and the aero clearly doesn’t hurt).
So while James always makes his extremely well-developed views very clear based in years of experience, don’t be afraid to at least try a silly racy bike before you plump for an endurance model. Either way, get a professional fit and / or make a note of your most comfortable and enjoyable stack, reach, saddle height, crank length, handlebar width etc, otherwise even the endurance or gravel bike will hurt like heck as well (from early experience).
It's less about compliance, more that they are too long. You can of course ride a race bike with a stack of spacers, but that will affect the handling of the bike.
Relaxed geo but still aero/stiff would be ideal for a lot of consumers.
I had reserved a bike that was already coming into my local bike shop, they said if I changed my mind I wouldn’t lose my deposit. I thought I would need a 52cm bike, but on seeing these videos I have cancelled that order & booked myself a bike fit so I will then have all the information I need to buy a bike that will fit me.
My 12 year old Bianchi has the old 8 speed Clarus levers with those stupid thumb levers high up on the hoods. I want to replace them but every time I look for a new group I can't justify the costs on a 12 year old, heavy aluminum bike.
Same here ….I have the old thumb shifters on 10 year old bike but they work for me and just can’t justify the expense for an older bike
I do like James I wish I have his advice before I bought my first bike I have subsequently bought a smaller bike frame 😁
You CAN book a coffee with James...
It will cost you £400 but comes with a bike fit ;)
How to buy a bike.
Q 1. Are you an amateur athlete ?
Q 2. Have you had a basic bike fit in last 90 days ?
Q 3. Have you had a shoe fit evaluation in last 90 days ?
This or something similar should be the foundation to the purchase of an enthusiast bicycle.
I run Shimano Claris on my training bike, it's bulky, only has 8 speed and rim brake. But incredibly reliable, feels almost as sharp as my 2012 Dura-Ace at times and could defiantly snipe a race win or two with it.
Nothing wrong with claris r2000 groupset. 👍
Ughhhhh I made a huge rookie mistake years and years ago with my frame. 54cm frame 5’6. I’ve had nothing but fit problems. Thanks for this video. I’m in the market for a new one and plan on doing it right this time
some tips to think about - consider looking for female specific frames. bikes are designed for men, and women are basically hinged differently at the hips so I believe female bike frames would have a slightly longer top tube. Cannondale did make one in 2021, called a Synapse. Also depends on your body type too, longer legs or longer torso can make a big diff. And one more tip, if you ever need to use a longer seatpost, or a stem that's more than 20 mm longer than what the bike came with, the frame is too small. Same goes for having the seatpost completely buried in the frame and needing a stem way shorter than stock - this frame is too big. A bike fitting would help, but I certainly wouldn't trust this guy - he doesn't even know how to measure a frame.
Erm most important is both surely reach and seat tube, because if you need a lot of post out then saddle to bar drop is to much , that is why I had to go for a 56 , 54 cm to small for me on the legs
To become more confused: at Specialized, every model has its own size chart. A 45 Tarmac isn't the same size as a 45 Roubaix.
There isn't THE truth about sizing. I've read lots of comments of people riding bike with "wrong" sizes and they're fine. I, as a skinny small person, was riding a Specialized CrossTrail in Size "L" and i had no pain at all. Now i got a Roubaix, size 54 (170-178) and i'm fine as well. According to other brands a "54" is ways to big.
Pretty much have my mind made up at this point that I'm going to travel to London from the US at some point for a fit and shoes.
James with this video, circa 2016, would’ve saved me a whole lotta money…. I mean a whole lot… 🤦🏽♂️😆🍻
Thanks for that mithbusting about sizes. Tired to tell to all my friends: don't buy THAT BIG frame.
I'm 190cm (6,4 feet?), and my bikes are 56cm with pretty short ETT (mtb 19-20) with 400mm seatposts.
Also found for my wife (168cm) xs bike (mtb, 15 inch, very short ett), changed stem from 80 to 60, and she's absolutely happy with it. And yup, 350mm seatpost is almost in upper position. Size matters:)
Don't doubt older guys, we're not out of the race yet, granted I'm not going to race but I can push myself, even if I were to go endurance doesn't mean it can't be fast.!!!
Don't laugh, but I cycle a minimum of 12 miles daily - on a 7 speed 20" wheeled Dahon Mariner fold up bike, in Amsterdam, in my sneakers shorts and tee. I've always wanted to take it more seriously as a dedicated hobby, but living in apartments, normally up three flights of stairs that would challenge a mountain climber, I've never been able to buy a "proper" road bike, hence my silly (albeit tons of fun!) fold up bike. Much as I truly enjoy the little Dahon for it's zippiness around town, when I'm out on the open road the little wheels and 7 gears make it a bit tough going at times - it's very flat here, but then with cobbles chucked into the mix! So, long story short, I'm looking at getting a gravel bike, but as it is my first dip into this world I have to say it is such a mind boggling amount to take in. THIS VIDEO IS PURE BRILLIANT!!!!!!!!! Truly great advice, in particular the tip about fitting - I have never even really considered reach as being the most important aspect in a frame. It might be too complex a subject to go into via a comment, but is there a way for us to calculate what top tube size would best suit our height? Presumably we have to factor in arm / body / leg length.....Anyway, great vid!