DCC best practices, my friend. Feeder wires to every section of track. The wires don't just carry the current, they carry the digital signal as well. Besides, I'm not just building a small layout, this series is also a demonstration of techniques that can be applied to DCC layouts of any size.
If my dad was still with us he would be fascinated by you and your channel, thank you for bringing this to the world. ❤ So important to keep the working with your hands, alive!!!
Great video, Dave. It strikes me that a compact portable layout is a great way to pay tribute to your late friend. Versus a permanent installation, you can take this to meet ups, shows, or club events. And if the time ever comes, someone else can carry the torch. Well done.
Hi Dave doing a great job, lol started my layout, scenery was supposed to be Rocky Mountains lol don’t know how but I’ve ended up with my own version of Thunder Mesa!
Just got back into this and stumbled on your channel. Love the layouts along with my grandson. I grew up in So. Cal and love all of the Disney and Knotts influences👍🏻 so amazing.
It doesn't really matter for a tiny layout like this, but a good habit for the DCC bus is to either twist the red + black wires gently around each other or ziptie them together. The DCC signal is super sensitive to interference, so keeping the wires real close to one another makes sure you don't accidentally induce false signals in the wiring. In turn, that ensures you don't randomly lose control of your locomotive when it picks up a bad DCC signal. I've even had locomotives reprogram themselves in the past! Really this is only a problem when you start getting to like 8 or 16 foot runs, but it's always a good practice to get into since it can damage a decoder.
Wonderful little railroad! That method of frog juicing was new to me. I like the simplicity of it! Seems like a good fit for this railroad and a nice callback to the inspiration.
The way you wired the turnout’s operation will add to a more prototypical operation. The layout tribute to Verne is well executed. Good video as always.
Love what you do and I have learned a lot from your videos.👍 May I suggest that you use Liquid Tape to cover those open and spliced wire connections. I prefer the black that is available at car parts stores although some big box stores may have some but I found it to be too thin and it drips until dry. I have a lot of connections under my basement-size layout and I found this to be a better option rather than tape or wire nuts.
@@ThunderMesaStudio I forgot to mention that it does not unravel like tape or fall off like wire nuts. It stays. I found in one case where I had to get into a connection and the solidified liquid tape peeled back, not completely but I was able to add to the connection.
Dave - another great video! Looking good! Looking forward to following the progress. Thanks for sharing your tips/techniques! One note on your sound/volume - your voice is a bit low so I have to turn up the volume a bit, no big deal. However, when you switch to background music it is VERY loud. I can't turn it down fast enough without waking up my wife in the middle of the night when watching videos...
Nice but, I would've used some heat-shrink on the main power bus, instead of electricians tape, where you completed the circle. To connect the feeders to the bus, I'ld use suitcase connectors - no soldering, and they work great! 🙂
This is going to be a great build, so looking forward to more. I like the hand throws, I need to learn more about how to set it up and use them. Hope your Christmas was a good one. HAPPY NEW YEAR 🎉 GOD BLESS 🚂💕🚂💕🚂💕🚂💕
Could you use suitcase connectors? OOPs, just as I type this you mention those connectors. Yes, the suitcases for 28 gauge wire might be hard to find. it pays to wait until the end to ask questions.
They do, but I wanted to wire this the same way Verne wired his. midwestmodelrr.com/cab119r/?sku=CAB119R&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAg8S7BhATEiwAO2-R6mQ9UurZvNNY1AixSlzRV2VbnAUk1wjbWDYX2gaoTSnlPodajkO49hoCLVAQAvD_BwE
Hey Dave - Just curious as to why you would not use lever nuts to connected those wires you dropped down to the bus wires? It seems it would be so much faster- especially for your larger layouts where you have to crawl underneath. I was watching Adam Savage’s Favorite Things in 2024 (ua-cam.com/video/qgrt7uoGm70/v-deo.htmlsi=Ku6Xp6zzmz_eRGoN) and he not only showed these lever nuts but also a slick pair of quick wire strippers where you don’t have to worry about the gauge size, they just adjust automatically. You should check it out.
Oh come on, feeder wires on a small layout? So much extra work for nothing.
DCC best practices, my friend. Feeder wires to every section of track. The wires don't just carry the current, they carry the digital signal as well. Besides, I'm not just building a small layout, this series is also a demonstration of techniques that can be applied to DCC layouts of any size.
If my dad was still with us he would be fascinated by you and your channel, thank you for bringing this to the world. ❤ So important to keep the working with your hands, alive!!!
Great video, Dave. It strikes me that a compact portable layout is a great way to pay tribute to your late friend. Versus a permanent installation, you can take this to meet ups, shows, or club events. And if the time ever comes, someone else can carry the torch.
Well done.
I love this little layout soooo much. 😊❤😊 ❤
Thank you!
Dave does a great job screwing around 😉
Hi Dave doing a great job, lol started my layout, scenery was supposed to be Rocky Mountains lol don’t know how but I’ve ended up with my own version of Thunder Mesa!
Just got back into this and stumbled on your channel. Love the layouts along with my grandson. I grew up in So. Cal and love all of the Disney and Knotts influences👍🏻 so amazing.
I love it the trains are running! I can't wait to see what is in store for next year. I'm looking forward to the Tressel build.
It doesn't really matter for a tiny layout like this, but a good habit for the DCC bus is to either twist the red + black wires gently around each other or ziptie them together.
The DCC signal is super sensitive to interference, so keeping the wires real close to one another makes sure you don't accidentally induce false signals in the wiring.
In turn, that ensures you don't randomly lose control of your locomotive when it picks up a bad DCC signal. I've even had locomotives reprogram themselves in the past!
Really this is only a problem when you start getting to like 8 or 16 foot runs, but it's always a good practice to get into since it can damage a decoder.
Good tip!
Really appreciate your step by step instructions. Gives me confidence to get my trains running again.
Wonderful little railroad! That method of frog juicing was new to me. I like the simplicity of it! Seems like a good fit for this railroad and a nice callback to the inspiration.
Thanks for showing me how to power that frog.
Looking very good Dave. love these build videos
Wonderful tribute to Verne and his E&SG. I love the simplicity of the design and execution.
I recognize Vern’s name from when I was active on the Trainboard model railroad forum years ago.
I will definitely be falling along on this build looks great so far 👍👍
Enjoyed it Dave, I love Micro Engineering track!
The way you wired the turnout’s operation will add to a more prototypical operation. The layout tribute to Verne is well executed. Good video as always.
Love what you do and I have learned a lot from your videos.👍 May I suggest that you use Liquid Tape to cover those open and spliced wire connections. I prefer the black that is available at car parts stores although some big box stores may have some but I found it to be too thin and it drips until dry. I have a lot of connections under my basement-size layout and I found this to be a better option rather than tape or wire nuts.
Good tip!
@@ThunderMesaStudio I forgot to mention that it does not unravel like tape or fall off like wire nuts. It stays. I found in one case where I had to get into a connection and the solidified liquid tape peeled back, not completely but I was able to add to the connection.
Great show. I’m getting ready to start my new layout so this show was just what I needed.
very cool Dave...
Love it when a plan comes together. Looks wonderful Dave.
Happy New Year
Killer video as always Dave!
Looking great Dave. HAPPY NEW YEAR to You and Yours Dave.
Dave - another great video! Looking good! Looking forward to following the progress. Thanks for sharing your tips/techniques! One note on your sound/volume - your voice is a bit low so I have to turn up the volume a bit, no big deal. However, when you switch to background music it is VERY loud. I can't turn it down fast enough without waking up my wife in the middle of the night when watching videos...
Thanks. I mix the sound the best I can to sound balanced in my headphones. Different devices play back sound differently.
Looking good! Thanks for sharing!
I had to wait til almost 2:00 am to get to see it in one pass, as always worth the wait!! Thank you.
I tried to watch it at 10p and crashed out so here I am at 6a :)
Great build as always. If it were me though I would fit a frog juicer just to keep things automated.
On a larger layout with more switches, so would I.
Can’t wait for a future episode where we get to see how to properly juice a frog. I think.
@@DavidBales-r5s I showed how to juice the frog with a SPDT switch in this video.
Nice but, I would've used some heat-shrink on the main power bus, instead of electricians tape, where you completed the circle. To connect the feeders to the bus, I'ld use suitcase connectors - no soldering, and they work great! 🙂
Thanks. I do talk about the alternatives you mentioned in the video.
Hi there! Nice video again. But why didn’t you just use a CI groundthrow with contacts to power the frog? 🤔
That's a good option, but as I mentioned in the video, I wanted to do it "old school" the way Verne did it on the E&SG.
Ah, thx! Think I missed that comment watching it, sorry . I really like this style of layout -1-
Thanks Dave 🤠 best to you and yours✌️💙
Looking great, I hate wiring, lol
Btw, have you ever used the Caboose Industries ground throws with the built in frog terminals??
Those are a good option, but as I mentioned in the video, I wanted to do it "old school" the way Verne did it on the E&SG.
Catchin’ up with your new place and this build looks great. Happy New Year 🎊🎈🎆
As always, another great informative video!!
This is going to be a great build, so looking forward to more. I like the hand throws, I need to learn more about how to set it up and use them.
Hope your Christmas was a good one.
HAPPY NEW YEAR 🎉
GOD BLESS 🚂💕🚂💕🚂💕🚂💕
Lookin good.
HAPPY NEW YEAR DAVE FROM MICHIGAN.
execelent work !! very inspiring
👍 a job well done. Thx
Could you use suitcase connectors? OOPs, just as I type this you mention those connectors. Yes, the suitcases for 28 gauge wire might be hard to find. it pays to wait until the end to ask questions.
Just wondering, are you using regular code 83 HO scale track?
That doesn’t make the ties to close together for O scale?
As mentioned in the video, this is Micro Engineering On30 code 83. The ties are larger and more widely spaced than HO.
Doesn’t Caboose make a ground throw that can switch the frog?
They do, but I wanted to wire this the same way Verne wired his. midwestmodelrr.com/cab119r/?sku=CAB119R&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAg8S7BhATEiwAO2-R6mQ9UurZvNNY1AixSlzRV2VbnAUk1wjbWDYX2gaoTSnlPodajkO49hoCLVAQAvD_BwE
@ OK I get it. No automatic choke on a Model T. You are a kind and respectful man! And the layout looks good so far.
Hey Dave - Just curious as to why you would not use lever nuts to connected those wires you dropped down to the bus wires? It seems it would be so much faster- especially for your larger layouts where you have to crawl underneath.
I was watching Adam Savage’s Favorite Things in 2024 (ua-cam.com/video/qgrt7uoGm70/v-deo.htmlsi=Ku6Xp6zzmz_eRGoN) and he not only showed these lever nuts but also a slick pair of quick wire strippers where you don’t have to worry about the gauge size, they just adjust automatically. You should check it out.
I have a pair of those quick wire strippers. They work... sometimes. I've found the old fashioned ones more reliable.
Not sure if it's me but the music is extremely loud and your voice is very quiet. I have to turn it up to hear you, then the music deafens me.