One of the most thorough reviews I've seen for the Max4! Thank you for taking the time to share your 3d print files, I'm printing the alignment pegs as I type this, I'm currently working on a metal enclosure and hope to get the finished product on youtube later next week!
On setting focal length, I use the Tool holder. It is 50 mm. Place material, jog laser,lower the Z by 1 mm, place the tool holder on material and lower the laser in to contact by loosening the screws, raise up 1 mm to remove holder. Then lower Z to 26 mm for engraving.
Thank you for your video. I have just bought this machine and I find this video very useful. Just a point about your Flite Foamboard, which it did not cut through... another solution to give you guidelines without the disadvantages of the laser is to use the blade attachment. I have a Silhouette machine, but the opening for it to go through is to narrow. This machine has no such disadvantage. This will not be a cut through, but it may have the potential of being a clean score for you to follow later with a craft knife.
Thanks for the tip. With Flite Test foamboard, I typically use the laser to create a heavy score in the top layer and then finish the cut with a craft knife. Works really well!
Thank you for sharing such a valuable feedback, I am getting one NEJE Max 4 E80 and trying to find start point for different materials for engrave and cutting, but unable to find for making material test grid, do you mind to share some suggestions on that.!
Although polyvinyl chloride (PVC) can in fact be cut with laser like you did with the fabric sample, the thermal process produces hydrochloric acid and chlorine gas, the stuff they used in chemical warfare in WWII. Not only will it destroy your equipment, but it can also lead to some very severe health risks.
I have a 4 Max along with the NeJe honeycomb bed. How did you attach the honeycomb bed? It is just barely bigger than the rails and keeps falling off the rail. I did like your mods on Thingyverse. Do you use the square post brackets to position the bed? I have a model kit business for 20 years and design my own sailplane designs and designs of others. I am hoping to cut my own parts. I had been using a vendor for many years who tends tone unreliable as of late.
Hey Mark, I did not get the NEJE honeycomb bed. The one I have is from Amazon and fits down between the rail nicely. I designed the square post brackets so that material can be aligned accurately even if the honeycomb bed moves around. The alignment plates will sit on top of the bed. I hope this helps and best of luck on your business!
Do you happen to have the dimensions of the honeycomb bed? I just ordered the neje 4 max and would like to get the honeycomb before it arrives. Thanks for the video, before watching this I was going back and forth between creality falcon 2 22 watt and neje. Your video sealed the deal.
where are you located??? I could possibly print them for you for a small fee to cover the filament, and shipping....with @reedinspace2286 permission of course.
Yikes! I machined quite of bit of that material when I was a machinist. I don't think I would try it because of the formaldehyde fumes even though I have a good exhaust. I'm thinking the machine could do it though...
Ok, I’m interested in one of these machines and that would be one of my main materials. Only cutting .005 g10. Others have claimed the diode laser just reflects off the tan color?
@@reedinspace2286 I only saw links to the air assist, the mount for the E-stop, and the Focus blocks. I was asking about your frame mounted alignment mods that mount inside the laser in the 4mm holes. :) I already have your mount for the e-stop and the focus blocks!
I would try your local public library or community college. Most have 3d printers available to the public. There are also some "pay to print" places on-line but they are pretty expensive. The prices on 3D printers are coming down so check the used market. It's a great tool to have. Good luck!
@@reedinspace2286could I get the fusion files so I can make mods to it. Stls don’t import back correctly, thanks. I am willing to pay for these, thanks
No manual for the dragchains is because Neje did not give the dragchains to early buyers, and you can not buy them also. Neje leave early buyers in the cold every time. Same probems with the tumbscrews! I took a hacksaw so i can use a screwdriver now. My first time use it cost me 10 cm of honycomb. For me the tension adjuster are useless, because they are only reacheble from the bottom and i have bolted the machine down for regidety. Also the Honeycomb does not fit at all. need selfmade adjusters its a Max3 honeycomb unmodified... MAX4 top end is useles for 9 cm. Nice locater idea and hight adjusters for the z axis ! Tanks for the idea Emergency stop is also useless because you need to reset the machine and the softeware to start again. Easyer and cheaper is to cut the main power with a switch. And no reset needed. I also added a 16K camera and some fire resistend alu tape on the inside of my enclosure and led strip for more light. At first i used the same aquarium pump but that does not give presssure enough, so i run a pneumatic air hose from my shed ( 20 meter) compressor on a wifi outlet. tougheter abbout 20 $ from Ali. There is no possebillety to ad a small led screen to move the laser like this one. Also way cheaper and includes a touchsceen. And 3D possebilleties and wifi. And already seen it work perfectly with a E80, on a selfbuild 15000X22500 machine for almost the same price as the NEJE MAX4. nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005004188679917.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.11.64ef4c28RSMryB&algo_pvid=f8941cf8-4797-4d1f-9e80-5a19cb9f4061&algo_exp_id=f8941cf8-4797-4d1f-9e80-5a19cb9f4061-5&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2121.75%2111.64%21%21%2123.29%21%21%402103853f17048258392545237e676a%2112000028610375243%21sea%21NL%210%21AB&curPageLogUid=OSpUY2XYxZzX&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A Its almost impossible to implement a touch screen because NEJE made the decision to let the mainborard go with the gantry. Stupid in my eyes. And more sesitive to faults. PS the last 10 minutes is no sound, i had to put up the subtitles.
Thanks for all the feedback. I bought the honeycomb from Amazon and it fit perfectly so it may be different from the Neje design. I agree that the E-stop should be better because you do have to shut everything down to reset the machine. Also agree that a touchscreen option would be nice. The sound is fine on my end so it may have been a UA-cam glitch. I've had it happen....
@@reedinspace2286 Again, after the first machines were sent out, the honeycomb size was corrected. Mine fit perfectly as well as having the drag chains. My only fault with the machine is the rats nest of wiring/hose/etc. My first project is going to be an electronics box. The air assist coming with a wall-wart is the first annoyance with that! The second is that you can't really attach anything to the side of the machine as it would interfere with y-axis. So I'll have to get creative with something coming around from the front.
Thanks for the video, Just got my Neje max 4, having a hard time figuring out how to set the module height for focus. Is it done on the laser or is it done with lightburn?
This can be done with the native Neje software but most people use Lightburn to control the machine. I would start out by homing the Z-axis using Lightburn, then move the Z-axis down 44mm. Once there, loosen the thumbscrews for the laser module and set it at a height of 25mm from the cutting/engraving surface. Then re-home the Z-axis. You can make adjustments from there. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I set mine to the top of the honeycomb and then enter the material thickness in Lightburn (there's a specific youtube video all about z-axis setup on the max4). The downside of this is that I can't seem to get the auto test generator to work as there's no material thickness in that window. I found a youtube video that made doing my own fairly straightforward though.
@@thingswelike I was not that far, put it together and swicth on with Lightburn and it goes home that was a piece of my Honycomb. Never considered that the X-axis cold go down als the screw on the E80 are very weak if man handeled, not normal reacheble. So i use a hacksaw afterwards so i can use a flat At some places the Max4 is really bad design and really cheap-ass
@@thingswelike I did also have that issue with the auto test generator. What I figured out is, just for test, I had to reverse the Z-axis. Not sure why, but it worked for me.
What is the actual laser output watts? So far, the z-axis thing sounds cool if it works with lightburn, but I'm not seeing any cutting advantage over my xtool d1 20-watt? Am I missing something. The original commercial I saw had it cutting through 3/4" wood on a single pass. I'm really confused.
The output is specified at 24 watts. I have tested this and it can cut 3/4" board (not plywood) in a single pass. However, you have to go pretty slow and it generates a wider kerf. Also, the quality of the cut isn't the greatest. In the video, I did it in 2 passes as a happy medium. I do use Lightburn.
Great review and instructions I am excited to get mine, ordered yesterday
That was a really good review. This convinced me that this is the laser cutter I will buy later this year, well done!
I appreciate your comment and best of luck with your projects!
One of the most thorough reviews I've seen for the Max4! Thank you for taking the time to share your 3d print files, I'm printing the alignment pegs as I type this, I'm currently working on a metal enclosure and hope to get the finished product on youtube later next week!
Thanks for the feedback! I'll keep an eye out for your video. Take care!
Very well made! liked the technical part , interesting from start to end, thanks!
I really appreciate you watching. Thanks so much for the feedback!
On setting focal length, I use the Tool holder. It is 50 mm. Place material, jog laser,lower the Z by 1 mm, place the tool holder on material and lower the laser in to contact by loosening the screws, raise up 1 mm to remove holder. Then lower Z to 26 mm for engraving.
Well done, nice review!
Thanks for the feedback. All the best!
Thanks for the review.
Not a problem and thanks for watching!
Thank you for your video. I have just bought this machine and I find this video very useful. Just a point about your Flite Foamboard, which it did not cut through... another solution to give you guidelines without the disadvantages of the laser is to use the blade attachment. I have a Silhouette machine, but the opening for it to go through is to narrow. This machine has no such disadvantage. This will not be a cut through, but it may have the potential of being a clean score for you to follow later with a craft knife.
Thanks for the tip. With Flite Test foamboard, I typically use the laser to create a heavy score in the top layer and then finish the cut with a craft knife. Works really well!
Thank you for sharing such a valuable feedback, I am getting one NEJE Max 4 E80 and trying to find start point for different materials for engrave and cutting, but unable to find for making material test grid, do you mind to share some suggestions on that.!
Although polyvinyl chloride (PVC) can in fact be cut with laser like you did with the fabric sample, the thermal process produces hydrochloric acid and chlorine gas, the stuff they used in chemical warfare in WWII. Not only will it destroy your equipment, but it can also lead to some very severe health risks.
Very nice and good review. Is there any chance to get the 3D Models for the location parts. That looks amazing
You can find the STL file links in the description.
I have a 4 Max along with the NeJe honeycomb bed. How did you attach the honeycomb bed? It is just barely bigger than the rails and keeps falling off the rail. I did like your mods on Thingyverse. Do you use the square post brackets to position the bed? I have a model kit business for 20 years and design my own sailplane designs and designs of others. I am hoping to cut my own parts. I had been using a vendor for many years who tends tone unreliable as of late.
Hey Mark, I did not get the NEJE honeycomb bed. The one I have is from Amazon and fits down between the rail nicely. I designed the square post brackets so that material can be aligned accurately even if the honeycomb bed moves around. The alignment plates will sit on top of the bed. I hope this helps and best of luck on your business!
Do you happen to have the dimensions of the honeycomb bed? I just ordered the neje 4 max and would like to get the honeycomb before it arrives. Thanks for the video, before watching this I was going back and forth between creality falcon 2 22 watt and neje. Your video sealed the deal.
Great video, thanks, I was wondering if you have a file for the printed locating jigs you use?
I sure do. Please check out the links in the description. I've got them uploaded on Thingiverse. Hope they help!
Nice review. Is it possible to connect air compressor for lasers tot his machine, and how?
Love the review! Is there anyone that makes and sells your 3D prints? I'd love to have them, but do not own a 3D printer.
You should check your local public libraries. A lot of them have printers available for public use.
where are you located??? I could possibly print them for you for a small fee to cover the filament, and shipping....with @reedinspace2286 permission of course.
Can the E80 laser work with Vectric
Could you make a video about locating material on the laser bed?
Sure! It may take me a week or two but I will put something together. Thanks!
nice review, would love to see a test with garolite?
Yikes! I machined quite of bit of that material when I was a machinist. I don't think I would try it because of the formaldehyde fumes even though I have a good exhaust. I'm thinking the machine could do it though...
Ok, I’m interested in one of these machines and that would be one of my main materials. Only cutting .005 g10. Others have claimed the diode laser just reflects off the tan color?
@@lorneh6232 At that thickness, it's about he same as heavy paper and I have cut pure white posterboard.
@@reedinspace2286 have you tried regular white depron without a paper backing?
Watch out for PVC too. Poly Vinyl Chloride. Bad for you and lenses to.
Thanks for that info. Much appreciated!
Do you allso have a file for the enclosure? thnx Peter
I do not have a file but I did do another video specifically about the enclosure with measurements. ua-cam.com/video/5w5C9uIzU6E/v-deo.html
Great video!! Do you have your squaring jigs on Thingiverse?
Thanks for the comment! l do have the jigs upload. Please check the description for links.
@@reedinspace2286 I only saw links to the air assist, the mount for the E-stop, and the Focus blocks. I was asking about your frame mounted alignment mods that mount inside the laser in the 4mm holes. :) I already have your mount for the e-stop and the focus blocks!
@@reedinspace2286 I see now, it is in with the E-stop mount file.....my bad :)
I live in a small community and do not have access to a 3D printer. Could I purchase the jigs and other 3D items from you? thanks
I would try your local public library or community college. Most have 3d printers available to the public. There are also some "pay to print" places on-line but they are pretty expensive. The prices on 3D printers are coming down so check the used market. It's a great tool to have. Good luck!
@@reedinspace2286 Could you list a link for your Alignment jigs? Thanks
@@mikebritton-th3fg The links for the mods are in the video description.
I want to make some mods to this design. Can you prove the solid model file that you use to create this STLs. I use fusion 365
@@reedinspace2286could I get the fusion files so I can make mods to it. Stls don’t import back correctly, thanks. I am willing to pay for these, thanks
"come on man" how do you turn those thumb screws with those big sausage fingers?
My hands are out of shape! I've been out of the machine shop for too long.
No manual for the dragchains is because Neje did not give the dragchains to early buyers, and you can not buy them also. Neje leave early buyers in the cold every time.
Same probems with the tumbscrews! I took a hacksaw so i can use a screwdriver now. My first time use it cost me 10 cm of honycomb.
For me the tension adjuster are useless, because they are only reacheble from the bottom and i have bolted the machine down for regidety.
Also the Honeycomb does not fit at all. need selfmade adjusters its a Max3 honeycomb unmodified... MAX4 top end is useles for 9 cm.
Nice locater idea and hight adjusters for the z axis ! Tanks for the idea
Emergency stop is also useless because you need to reset the machine and the softeware to start again.
Easyer and cheaper is to cut the main power with a switch. And no reset needed.
I also added a 16K camera and some fire resistend alu tape on the inside of my enclosure and led strip for more light.
At first i used the same aquarium pump but that does not give presssure enough, so i run a pneumatic air hose from my shed ( 20 meter) compressor on a wifi outlet. tougheter abbout 20 $ from Ali.
There is no possebillety to ad a small led screen to move the laser like this one. Also way cheaper and includes a touchsceen. And 3D possebilleties
and wifi. And already seen it work perfectly with a E80, on a selfbuild 15000X22500 machine for almost the same price as the NEJE MAX4.
nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005004188679917.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.11.64ef4c28RSMryB&algo_pvid=f8941cf8-4797-4d1f-9e80-5a19cb9f4061&algo_exp_id=f8941cf8-4797-4d1f-9e80-5a19cb9f4061-5&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2121.75%2111.64%21%21%2123.29%21%21%402103853f17048258392545237e676a%2112000028610375243%21sea%21NL%210%21AB&curPageLogUid=OSpUY2XYxZzX&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
Its almost impossible to implement a touch screen because NEJE made the decision to let the mainborard go with the gantry. Stupid in my eyes. And more sesitive to faults.
PS the last 10 minutes is no sound, i had to put up the subtitles.
Thanks for all the feedback. I bought the honeycomb from Amazon and it fit perfectly so it may be different from the Neje design. I agree that the E-stop should be better because you do have to shut everything down to reset the machine. Also agree that a touchscreen option would be nice. The sound is fine on my end so it may have been a UA-cam glitch. I've had it happen....
@@reedinspace2286 idd today the sound is perfect. Was on my side. Strange , just stopped the last 10 minutes.
@@reedinspace2286 Again, after the first machines were sent out, the honeycomb size was corrected. Mine fit perfectly as well as having the drag chains. My only fault with the machine is the rats nest of wiring/hose/etc. My first project is going to be an electronics box. The air assist coming with a wall-wart is the first annoyance with that! The second is that you can't really attach anything to the side of the machine as it would interfere with y-axis. So I'll have to get creative with something coming around from the front.
What setting for woods do you aplly? ( z-axis offset)
I have an offset of 44 for cutting and 46mm for engraving.
@@reedinspace2286 and it is for 4 mm plywood and reference value 25 mm in the end position for cutting head?
Thanks for the video, Just got my Neje max 4, having a hard time figuring out how to set the module height for focus. Is it done on the laser or is it done with lightburn?
This can be done with the native Neje software but most people use Lightburn to control the machine. I would start out by homing the Z-axis using Lightburn, then move the Z-axis down 44mm. Once there, loosen the thumbscrews for the laser module and set it at a height of 25mm from the cutting/engraving surface. Then re-home the Z-axis. You can make adjustments from there. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@reedinspace2286 Be careull, it costs me a peace of my honycomb .
I set mine to the top of the honeycomb and then enter the material thickness in Lightburn (there's a specific youtube video all about z-axis setup on the max4). The downside of this is that I can't seem to get the auto test generator to work as there's no material thickness in that window. I found a youtube video that made doing my own fairly straightforward though.
@@thingswelike I was not that far, put it together and swicth on with Lightburn and it goes home that was a piece of my Honycomb. Never considered that the X-axis cold go down als the screw on the E80 are very weak if man handeled, not normal reacheble. So i use a hacksaw afterwards so i can use a flat
At some places the Max4 is really bad design and really cheap-ass
@@thingswelike I did also have that issue with the auto test generator. What I figured out is, just for test, I had to reverse the Z-axis. Not sure why, but it worked for me.
What is the actual laser output watts? So far, the z-axis thing sounds cool if it works with lightburn, but I'm not seeing any cutting advantage over my xtool d1 20-watt? Am I missing something. The original commercial I saw had it cutting through 3/4" wood on a single pass. I'm really confused.
The output is specified at 24 watts. I have tested this and it can cut 3/4" board (not plywood) in a single pass. However, you have to go pretty slow and it generates a wider kerf. Also, the quality of the cut isn't the greatest. In the video, I did it in 2 passes as a happy medium. I do use Lightburn.