Says “basic home enthusiast” then shows an ultimaker. Bruh, the ender 3 is a nearly perfect entry level printer, and it cost sub 200. Don’t waste your money on any of the sub 100 printers.
law Biffington was Gonna say the same thing, in the Netherlands I can buy an ender 3 for €180 and it’s a great value for you money. Good quality printed and you learn al lot from it. Would definitely recommend it!, !!
thats cool and all for emericans but in australia your $200 printer costs 333 dollars (before the $80-$100 shipping), the $96 costs $160 so 160+100 is 260 and 333 plus 100 is 433 so in while in more fortunate countries (ie ones that are treated like they are the top dogs just because all the youtubers come from there) 3D printing is more accessible, in waterlocked countries it is better for us to buy cheap and move to the states when we are able to
@@xXx_Oshino_xXx If the difference between someone and bankruptcy is $100, that somebody probably shouldn't be looking to spend it on something non essential. Just because some have $100 dollars doesn't mean you have to spend it- especially on a printer with poor print quality and minute build.
I have 2 Ultimaked 3+ and they are no longer able to print basic models... I tried everything to fix them... I am going to buy some chinese models instead
With the results I'm seeing - you can easily tune it up to be almost perfect. Just putting a random desktop fan next to it while it prints would increase the quality dramatically.
yea the cool part about fdm printers is that you buy a cheap shitty one you can mod the shit out of it. Ender 3 is a community favorite and the mods just keep coming lol
Christo Garza, listen to this man. But seriously dont go out buying on recommendations of a PC tech youtube for 3D printers. Take a look at makersmuse, chep, makeanything, and others. They are more of an authority on this subject
My Ender 3 printed a benchy similar(if not better) than the ultimaker shown in this video, only upgrade made was a glass bed for a total of 150€ printer
@@maledetto1221 right? The benchy of the ultimaker was extremely underwhelming compared to results on my Ender 3. I love LTT, but this video is quite misleading and unencuraging for peoplr looking to get into 3D-printing.
I got an ender 3 pro and with a glass bed and 2kg of filament it cost $380 cad it is such an impressive unit and it has been working so well. It even came with enough filament to print most of the recommend upgrades.
It's actually a thing btw. Making it print consistently at higher print speeds. _Edit:_ and watercooling the hotend and control board (stepper drivers in particular) would help with that. Some people even RGB their printers, and I'm not even kidding.
Just being able to print anything in any quality is really cool. Especially if you're a 3d modeller and want to have something physical to show for your work
CMDR lJITimate totally recommend it for anyone into 3D modelling of any kind! I’d been playing around in 3D for years, but then I went to university and had access to a range of printers from low end filament ones up to fancy resin ones and it was a total game changer. Got a second hand one for home and seeing real, solid versions of my models was so amazing
Another UA-camr CHEP reviewed this printer and although it is terrible at PLA it prints flexible filaments insanely well. So much so he calls it the new creepy crawly machine.
I think it is pretty neat for someone that does modeling like miniatures for a wargame or train set. Printing things like barrels, cleaning them up and then painting them. Hundred dollars is not a very steep price for an experimental tool and a first step though that door.
@@sekazi Anything without a cooling fan is terrible for PLA and you can install a standard cooling fan on the board. This is actually good printer for kids/school environment if there is someone with a bit of experience who can do to setup.
Of course. In germany you'd get a Renforce RF100 (good little Printer) for around 170 bucks (take away from the store). They're expensive (got mine used for 25 bucks, Muhahaa), and to be honest: Its a uncomplicated printer. Load file in Cura, slice it, plug it, print it. The RF100 sucks (lack of part cooling) at overhangs, but the Benchy turned out waaay better than that from Linus. Twiddling around with the settings and flashing a better Marlin Version (2.0.X) and the RF100 really came alive. ^^
I own a Easy Threed, also have a Ender 3 V2. The Easy is great for test printing, but I’ve used it for final prints. With the right settings in CURA, you can get pretty dang good quality prints! Paid $89 for mine. Nice video!
@@isaacwong3883 It’s been so long, two years, that I don’t remember. I did experiment with different print speeds. For this unit, it’s best if it’s a slower speed. It’s a great “learning printer.” And a lot of fun!
@@mintynuggets watch for sales. I've never seen it quite that cheap, But I just checked a price charting site and it bounces around between $180-$200 on gearbest. Add to that you can sometimes come up with coupons for those sites $175 wouldn't be out of the question. right now it's $199 with free shipping on gearbest, $189 on banggood. (140€ is about $150 US)
@@mintynuggetsJust type Ender 3 on google, search on gear best, ali express, amazon and so on. www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=ender+3 This is the printer
Heck, my Longer LK4 pro cost just a bit more then twice this and has a fancy UI and silent stepper drivers. That said, having something in the 'super small' form factor that isn't overpriced isn't a bad thing.
@@mataskart9894 ^^ buy an ender3, (not Pro) direct from Creality. There's nothing close, ur buying a $500 professional cnc frame for less than $200. Watch every assembly video you can (watch the left upright doesn't trap the case lid ;o) but it should take you an hour, with a coffee - the community is massive too. that's not an endorsement - lol - but there is a reason all 3dp owners should also buy an ender3 and most have. Pros: everything - Crea's support is good too. Cons: You need to be happy building stuff to own a 3dp and have some patience. But if you've ever used a screwdriver without harming nearby pets and have at least 1 working limb, or friends that do... you should buy and ender 3 :D it's not the only good printer, just the best. By far for the money... (this is my opinion not Pears -lol) xxPD
To be fair it's garbage compared to the Wanhao Duplicator clone I got years and years ago from Monoprice for like $200. And that Wanhao clone was garbage compared to the $750 Prusa MK3 I got last year. So this thing is beyond garbage and not even that low of a price compared to stuff you can get that works much better.
Both of those looked aweful compared to a $99 printer, haha, that expensive one was not tuned well at all, significantly worse than what my old machine will do at 150 to 200 mm/s, like that’s just extra sad... The $99 printer is the Tronxy X3 with a $0.25 upgrade. And the old machine I’m referring to is a Prusa i3 clone (Anet A8 looks like a significant upgrade over it and those are $79 currently) but heavily modified over the years and tweaked/customized to my needs.
@@jakegarrett8109 Yeah, there's honestly no reason for this printer to exist except for bored enthusiasts with extra who want something different and new to play with. Him pushing this as a good intro printer is just setting a ton of people up for failure.
You should really do a full length video of these 3D printers every price point; $100, $300, $700, then the ones that cost thousands and go through all the pros and cons of each. Or do a series of all the printers below $500. Then another above $500. Then the same for the $1000+ ones.
indeed! i'm in the market for one around $500, but would be interesting to know what i'm gaining over $200 printers and what i'm losing over $3000 printers...
To be honest, you can find many other more experienced channels that already has done that (not me), and has credibility with 3d printers. Some of those channels you find are still pushing affiliate links down your throat, but some aren't.
@@Vlican then you should talk to your local resellers to find their arguments, then look at us UA-camrs for our experience, the truth is often in-between 😁
@Fk Gooogle I picked up an ender 3 pro from amazon for $230 with free shipping but I hear it's even cheaper now. they had a deal going on for getting a basic setup for $150. so far most of my prints come out fine but I have had a few bad ones which are probably associated with my slicer program mixed with printer settings. the stock test prints on the other hand come out amazing.
Yeah, it is kind of weird to consider a $5000 machine as a close cousin of this printer. As a more-or-less gold standard, sure. But this would have been way better if they included a printer in the few hundred dollar range.
Well this is a video I never expected to see haha, performance about expected, I don't think those tiny steppers can handle the extrusion forces in general.
Ender 3 works perfectly for me, took some tinkering and tweeking the slicer settings (cura) but it works brilliantly good now. Near flawless Benchy with clear salmon skin tone's due to the lack of TL steppers. And that for twice the price of this piece of garbage. Can advice on printing alot of improvements tho :p. (fan directors, fillament guides, fillament roll holder, vertical axis stabalizer, cable reels/holder and some other stuff for the looks.)
@@ItsMavicBrah Love how he said "Basic Home Enthusiast ones" and showed an Ultimaker 3. Like yeah that aint basic. Ive noticed LTT really likes the use the Slight of hand technique and slighty lie in every argument to make the entire situation seem greatly different to what it truly is.
"I mean, we can't recommend PLA for anything structural..." Just plain wrong. It is a bit brittle, yes, but it is significantly stronger than ABS or PETG for instance. The use of solid infill also shows a lack of experience with the medium, as it is wasteful in both print time and material, contributes very little to strength compared to more perimiters for instance, and will likely cause inaccuracies and warping in the finished part, as it is detrimental for part cooling and will amplify even the tiniest of flow calibration issues. I think the results could be far better if there was someone that knows what they're doing turning the knobs, I would even say the results could be better than the Benchie from their ultimaker, just by tuning the settings in a sensible way.
Petg and abs are actually both stronger than typical blends of pla. However that does not mean pla can't be used for anything structural, quite the contrary.
@@ikillfh844 actually not. Watch some of CNC Kitchen's videos comparing material strength, regular PLA is consistently significantly stronger than ABS and PETG. It is more brittle, yes but it takes more energy to break PLA parts.
@@hotdognr12323 this is true on paper but from personal experience Petg handles shear and tensile stresses better than pla, although this could be down to the adhesion provided by my printer.
@@ikillfh844 It is probably due to the different properties, it feels different to handle, and ABS and PETG can in some cases survive being overloaded to some extent, where PLA would break due to its brittle nature. But my point was that it is factually correct to say that PLA is stronger, and that LTT doesn't really know how to use a printer properly.
Omg thank you so much for saving me the time to type this like that benchi 🤮🤮🤮 it is such a shame how mis used that fine machine is (the ultimat maker ) honestly I feel like he should not do these videos well unless he actually knows what he is talking about
I bought this printer 8 months ago because of you. I have loved every second. Because of this little printer I now have an Ender 3 Pro and am an absolute maniac with printing. Thanks for the amazing hobby.
Going to be honest, I've been printing for about 3 going on 4 years now and the ender 3 basic model is perfect, just got to make sure that it's all tightened so there's no wobbles
Same i have been using my ender 3 for the last 2 years still going strong my first and only 3d printer and still dont feel the need to upgrade yet and have learned prety mutch everything about this printer. Its almost like when you own a car for a long time and know everything about it and dont want to replace it lol
I have also had an ender 3 since launch and recently got an ultimaker S5 and in all honesty the ender 3 has a better print quality on the same settings
@xd pperfect What tuning? Ender 3 is just readying a plane buildplate use cura and go. what tuning? the stringing ect. tuning I never did and I print miniatures for tabletop
@@xXTheBl4ckC4tXx Yeah Cura is just awesome with the creawsome mod now integrated without any tuning, even with magic numbers, thats why so much of the discussion about hardware is just plain stupid, My Ender 3 with only a simple metal extruder kit I had to buy because the old platic one broke, bad luck I guess, produces benchys that are running over even good calibrated, multi-grand expensive machines. Even back when I didnt use the mod at all und just had a pretty much stock profile from Cura, it has done amazing things.
Maybe they do, maybe they don't but, the only thing we can be sure of is that you don't know which side of the number to put the dollar sign on. Does that man we should try to shame you as well?
"Yeah, that Unity Engine, from Escape from Tarkov" I love the fact that EFT is mentioned in this video, considering the massive amount of other games that use the Unity Engine.
WTF me of the past ? Am I brain dead, of course I know Unity is a game engine, I'm a fucking game dev. I think I had a stroked trying to say that Unity isn't GOOD at making games or something
Linus, you should look into the Ender 3, it's slightly more expensive (on sale ~140$) but it's quality is amazing. For the extra 40$ compared to the X1 it is a lot more capable as it has a heated bed. Fan to cool the part and a much larger print volume. I would recommend it to anyone looking to get into the 3D printing world not just for the reasons mentioned but aswel it has a huge online community to solve any issues you have
yep if you want to dedicate time and effort to tweak stuff and reprint parts ~100 euro printers are nice. I started with Tronxy P802M a clone of a clone. and now the quality of prints puts a lot of name brand ones to shame. i did replace a lot of parts and even added auto leveling and a server running on ubuntu that works flawlessly. now thinking of rebuilding the whole chassis and adding heated chamber. And then maybe il add RAMPS board. but at that point it will be mostly custom printer and cant really be called a tronxy/anet
if you dont have the willpower to read and to learn how to customize hardware and firmware etc. then i would not recommend printers bellow 200$. buy some prebuilt and properly calibrated one
@@andypandy5781 original prusa never where cheap, but they are one of the best end user printers out there. They are part of the community nearly since the start of diy 3D printer and they have a great support and manual as they know what they are doing. You pay that much as you pay for the inovations they do, too. Everyone else just uses their design and know how and sell it cheaper. Sure an ender-3 can print as good as an prusa mk3s, but the qc is a lot worse from creality, support can be hit or miss and you never know when they make changes and tell no one about it. A ender-3 needs a silent board of some kind, and theirs is overpriced. Creality machines are only that good, because they have a giant community behind them since the cr-10 and "implemented" the core addons and safety changes the community made, mostly without even credit to the original designer of them. And there was a giant battle till they made the stuff public, as they are required to as the designs and software they use are open source. We have Sexycyborg to thank for that.
I remember the early days of 3D printing when a printer this small and simple would be considered a "repstrap." Just enough of a 3D printer with just enough volume to print the parts to build a better 3D printer. LOL
I kinda miss the repstrap days. Slap together enough of a gantry out of erector set, lego and your wife's cosmetic tools to squirt out the parts of a Mendel.
Yeah, the more I think about the "bootstrap" nature of this little printer, its easily worth the $100. If you were to try to build a repstrap to get started, I doubt you could beat that price by much, if at all.
The fact that this exists is just mindblowing. I've been 3D printing for a few years now, and my current printer is cheapass Alfawise U20 that I bought for circa 250 buckes, with 30*30*40cm volume, which is frankly enough for nearly anything you could want to print. This technology is very easy to use, fun and pretty cheap nowadays. Let's remember the early days when it was science fiction ... Insane, really.
@@ccricers I can recommend it. I print in PLA, ABS and PETG and it works well (of course for ABS you need an enclosure). I do mostly fast prototyping for my cars and motorcycles (the last one I did is yesterday, I 3D printed a caliper mount for my CB Twin in order to adapt a modern hydraulic brake). I printed Linus' test bed for PCs, I printed parts for car interiors, replacement parts for home .... The big volume is definitely a plus.
Out the box? No. With the right mods? Yeah. Hell, I still haven't gotten the autolevel mod situated and regret not just doing the mod that speeds up adjusting the bed instead.
@@michal_c9007 Auto-level mod is why I couldn't afford the glass bed. I though not having to be *as precise* with leveling the bed would've been the better move. It wasn't and now I'm just kinda stuck making do until things get to where I can order what I *should* have. Once I get that to work and get the other upgrades, it should be a pretty sweet setup
@white To make the same part in steel, You'd need the molds, a milling machine, steel sheets and a hydraulic press. So at least 4 persons for it all, and hours to make a full set. In plastic, you need the molds, one guy to check it all, and you make tens of them in minutes.
@white Actually, some do. The first of the two printers they recommended at the end, the Monoprice MP Select Mini, uses a sheet metal frame. The company they've cloned it from, Wanhao, uses sheet metal to construct all of their printers and it does indeed make for a more rigid, better printer. Prusa also uses sheet metal for the frame of their i3 printers. If you're interested, check out 3D Printing Nerd, Maker's Muse, or Thomas Sanladerer. They're maker channels that actually know what they're talking about when it comes to 3D printers.
To be honest: I buy this for my son as he was very curious about 3D printing. I was amazed how much projects we develop on this "garbage". At all this is not a garbage if you know how to use it. We build holders for electronics, enclosures for small projects. Our printer have a material cooling and i must tell that I am pretty amazed what possibilities we get in this price. Now son is 10 years old and he teach Fusion360 very well so today we ordered a new printer from Anycubic. I think I give Easythreed to my friend son so he can try some 3D printing.
"A Basic enthusiast printer" - shows a 4k USD printer. DUDE Anycubic selling for about 350 right now, and is approx the top of the entry line printers (or was recently). Please dont do such "shock value" type stuff, it undercuts your credibility
I honestly liked the rest of the video, but it is a misrepresentation of the medium. If this is your first exposure to 3d printing you'd think "Wow this printer is 35x cheaper than the beginner models others sell!"
a lot of the problems they were having were probably because the print bed wasn't leveled. I made some adjustments to mine following labist's video and i'm getting much better prints
“How good is a $100 3D printer” 1min later “How BAD is a $95 3D printer” Everyone just clicks when the title changes because they think it will be better
Some solutions to the melty smoke stack: You could set a minimum layer time in the slicing software so the hot end dwells somewhere for a set time before beginning the next layer. You could insert some small tower off to the side to force the hot end to travel and thus add more time to the layer. If the print bed is big enough or the part is small enough you could just print more than one at a time.
@@Flyingboots1 some people have higher priorities than throwing money at a printer, on a whim. Like, I dunno rent/mortgage, food, car payments, etc. Perhaps they already spent their "play budget"
LINUS!! Why buy this when you can buy a Creality Ender 3 for 50 more dollars and actually get a pretty darn similar quality to an Ultimaker with the right tuning?! Just sayin'
@@Ulvorskets I just got a v1. It's pretty darn good. But I think people opt for the v2 because of the firmware updates. I think it has better steppers and ui. Idk there's plenty of comparisons out there.
@@cardboardtruck1009 it is in many ways: it has a heated bed, 235x235cm bed, part cooling fan. it can literally outperform an ultimaker 3 out of the box.
Since everyone else has already mentioned the Ender, I feel I should mention the other glaring issue with this video... CURA! For the love of god, Linus, people expect you to lead them to the good stuff... those slicer options you presented are as much garbage as the toy printer. Ender 3, Cura, done! That should be your video when it comes to entry level 3D printing.
A lot of the problems are definitely their slicer settings, I'm using cura with this printer and I'm not having any underfill problems. The only issue is the lack of part cooling.
@@ps3customgamer I will be honest, I have not actually worked with prusaslicer, but at first glace it doesn't seem to be nearly as "tweekable" as cura. I suppose it may be better if you are using presets for stuff, but I prefer defining all the temps and speeds myself.... which is why I was a little confused when you said prusa gives better print times. It's possible that you are making this comparison with the default settings in cura (?). I don't know about prusa, but in cura, all the variables that determine print time are adjustable by me, so I have them dialed in to as fast as it will print and still give good results.
I started with this little printer and after a short while I had the settings just right to 3D print all kinds of items for modeling trains. I used this printer to learn 3D printing methods and upgraded to an Ender 3 v2.
OK it's some months later but ... I got an Ender 3 Pro end of October 2020 for about 150€ from the big "A" (No, not the Avengers! Try again!). I think that little extra money is well paid. Admittedly I wanted this one more for some tinkering and getting some experience in the 3D-business at last. I am still waiting to get a reasonable resin printer (missed out the first Saturn-batch). Until I get one, I will keep on tinkering with the Ender. It's quite nice. And yes, there's always a bigger fish in the pond. But for the beginning, the Ender will do.
@@erebus1964 if you get the ender a bit dialed in and you build it with measuring lengts, straight corners and so on, it can compete with a prusa mini, also stop with finding and installing "upgrades" that are useless, or *thinkering* i mean what some do, put the extruder on top so it is a direct drive but they dont want to buy a hotend so it still has bowden tube in then you just made the x carriage way too heavy for the single z motor and the print speed is half of the original. only upgrade you need is better springs for the bed, aluminium extruder and after a year a blue capricorn bowden tube, after that just make prints with it
@@FoxSock well english is not my native sorry. Also he Said that he will never stop thinkering, that is just stupid and those are the people that eventually make a mistake and break something or short something out and then come on Facebook to cry for help or complain on a company because its a factory part that broke
6:30 this problem can be fixed by printing 2 or 3 benchies at once, so while its printing one smokestack it can give it time to cool by moving on to the other model
I'm sorry but the whole idea of a sub $100 is a gimmick if you consider an ender 3 is a workhorse at $160. It can print multiple materials, on a reasonably large print bed and as you grow in the hobby it's open source design allows for a ton of upgradeability /customization
2:00 Would have to disagree strongly. PLA is great for mechanical/structural printing in most cases, aslong as the ambient temperature doesnt get too high. It has high stiffness and high resistance to (plastic) deformation. ABS has big layer adhesion issues (even when printing at like 260C), making the Z Axis a big weak spot for most forces, even more so then with other FDM plastics. ABS also easily deforms plasticly very easily, which isnt really desirable for most uses. A PLA printed part will most often withstand much higher forces in all axis compared to an ABS print. The only real downside to PLA is its temperature resistance and the fact that it isnt really a solid in room temperature (it still "flows" *very* slowly when force is applied, but it would take years/decades to make a real impact).
Pla is a lot easier to print, but if you want durability you should better use ABS, Petg or maybe PLA with carbon fiber, Standard PLA cant really take that much force withput breaking unless you waste a lot of material in infill
@@swe872 ABS is much stronger than PLA when injection molded. That is not true for 3D printing. You can do the tests, especially the Z-Axis will be much less durable, because layer bonding is an even bigger issue with ABS, even with a proper profile and printer and high quality ABS. But also both other axis will deform plasticly with ABS way before PLA breaks, making it more durable for most applications, because plastic deformation is in most use cases equal to a brake. ABS is good for its high glass transition temperature for 3d printing only. If you want durable, PETG is the way to go, if you dont want to invest in ultra high temp printing. If PLA is weaker in your prints maybe its because you have a non optimal profile for PLA. PLA loves walls more than infill. Rule of thumb is 4 walls for normal prints and 6+ for anything durable. It makes prints much stronger than increasing the infill and is cheaper too. ABS doesnt profit comparatively that much from wall count, because its more elastic. Also PLA gets really brittle if printed under about 210C (even more than normal). 220-230C is the optimal printing temperature for durability for pretty much every brand I printed with so far and that includes no name to higher end 50$/kg filament. But also important is the note that cheap PLA is really really bad most of the time. Sure you can print pretty figures with it just fine, but in my experience cheap PLA is much more brittle than higher quality filament.
Maybe your PLA test are different because of temperature, i live in stupidly Hot place, maybe my pla is weaker and a lot more brittle because of its temperature, im not an abs fan(because of bending and its annoying af to print) but i have tried out a few to times to have a better finish by acetone bathing them and after the same piece(some really cool drumsticks) previously printed with pla broke with 1 or two hits, the abs one lasted aproximately, 3 minutes of continue usage. Try printing abs with 245° and it would come alo stronger. I still prefer using petg or carbon fiber/pla anyway
You tested this for how long? The biggest problem with cheap printers is how soon they die. It might look fine initially but not after a while. I can guarantee those bearings and rods will wear out to the point nothing will be printable after just a handful of prints. Thing doesn't even "work" after that making even $100 too expensive.
This never looked fine, though. None of the prints I saw him do were even close to passable. And this is with a team of people who know, sometimes, what they're doing. This is a fun toy for an enthusiast with money to spare to play with as a lark. It's not good for anyone's first printer at all. They'd just end up frustrated with a $95 paperweight and 3 yards of melted globs of PLA.
I think the extruder needs to be calibrated because I had some issues with under extrusion due to the ESteps being trash. Also the best 3d printer for starting out might be an ender 3. You can buy them for like 150 new.
"We can't recommend pla for anything structural" please say that to my model rockets and racing drones made of pla it's not the material it's how you design it...
weebles ABS is better in that application especially (impact and shock, and ABS is typically 4x stronger in impact than PLA), also it handles the heat much better. The Shuty/Gluty I assume you are referring to is designed fairly heavy, so either should be fine, if it’s just Armalite lowers then those things should have very little stress on them (they are just a catching a handle and holding a magazine basically), so you could make them out of very weak materials and it would still be fine.
@@jakegarrett8109 Depends on what you're doing, really. ABS has issues. Best choice is a good nylon. At least for firearms. ABS is just too finicky to really be worth it for a lot of stuff, honestly. Though most designs are built with PLA in mind, anyway, as I understand it. At least, that's the case for the glock lowers, and as I recall the FGC-9
The River Acis yeah PLA is the “easiest” starting material, and since the point of 3D printed firearms is to make it as accessible as possible, then it’s typically engineered to use the compromised material. I haven’t had much issue with ABS on my machines, I take into account shrinkage with basic scaling (like 1% etc). For my newest printer (one I had 0 rolls of ABS through), I found that simply cutting a cardboard box with a hole in the middle for the nozzle to move along the rail and letting it sag at the ends basically made a decent enclosure, so instead of a box it just acts like a drooped parachute trapping in the heat and lifts as Z travels up, that one I did fine at 90c heated bed (textured surface magnetic flexible bed), my old machine on glass I used 110c on the bed with washable glue stick lightly applied but removal was quite a pain, haha, I had broken a few glass beds trying to get those things off, haha! I think Nylon might be more difficult than ABS, but I think of ABS as extremely easy since it’s been so reliable for me, and once I set it up, it’s good for years, haha, the hard part is when I have to change things going back to PLA...). So not finicky, but like every other material you need the setup correct (for PLA it’s fans on the part, no heat. For ABS I’ve actually done some no heat by accident on my new machine with textured plate and it somehow worked, which blew my mind). Oh the other reason for not using ABS is due to machine cost, many basic printers don’t have heated beds (most do now, but 5+ years ago it was actually a big feature to look for), so if you had to use it you’d significantly reduce the people that even could make the item.
There is an $150.00 resin 3D printer made by Voxelab. While SLA 3D printing is a more involved process than FDM 3D printing, it will give you better quality parts.
If you look at mechanical tests you'll see that PLA is actually a pretty good choice for structural parts though it deteriorates over time especially outdoors.
Guillaume DEBREGEAS. Yes indeed. It is just not good under long term stress paired with high stress levels and it is just not good with temperature, but i dont think that for regular use PLA is unuseable
Everyone: So the supplies cost more than the printer?
*HP has entered the chatroom*
Epson enters the chatroom.
Canon has entered the chatroom
Funnily enough, HP, Canon and Epson all manufacture 3D printers...
*Genius Bar has entered the chatroom* _So the issue with your screen not turning on is going to be a complete logic bard swap which is $400._
*All printers enter the chatroom*
Says “basic home enthusiast” then shows an ultimaker. Bruh, the ender 3 is a nearly perfect entry level printer, and it cost sub 200. Don’t waste your money on any of the sub 100 printers.
law Biffington was Gonna say the same thing, in the Netherlands I can buy an ender 3 for €180 and it’s a great value for you money. Good quality printed and you learn al lot from it. Would definitely recommend it!,
!!
Exactly, I can't believe it wasn't mentioned given that one of their employees has a CR-10 that was used
For some 100$ is the difference between bankruptcy and a new hobby.
thats cool and all for emericans but in australia your $200 printer costs 333 dollars (before the $80-$100 shipping), the $96 costs $160 so 160+100 is 260 and 333 plus 100 is 433 so in while in more fortunate countries (ie ones that are treated like they are the top dogs just because all the youtubers come from there) 3D printing is more accessible, in waterlocked countries it is better for us to buy cheap and move to the states when we are able to
@@xXx_Oshino_xXx If the difference between someone and bankruptcy is $100, that somebody probably shouldn't be looking to spend it on something non essential. Just because some have $100 dollars doesn't mean you have to spend it- especially on a printer with poor print quality and minute build.
"Basic home enthusiasts " shows top of the line desk top printer
This.
I have 2 Ultimaked 3+ and they are no longer able to print basic models... I tried everything to fix them... I am going to buy some chinese models instead
Ultimaker top of the line? No. Prusa is.
@@DesireAnimations well ulimaker is top price
@@DesireAnimations Check the prices?
With the results I'm seeing - you can easily tune it up to be almost perfect. Just putting a random desktop fan next to it while it prints would increase the quality dramatically.
yea the cool part about fdm printers is that you buy a cheap shitty one you can mod the shit out of it. Ender 3 is a community favorite and the mods just keep coming lol
Throwing this out there along with everyone else. Ender 3 is a great bang for the buck. $175 give or take.
Christo Garza, listen to this man. But seriously dont go out buying on recommendations of a PC tech youtube for 3D printers. Take a look at makersmuse, chep, makeanything, and others. They are more of an authority on this subject
My Ender 3 printed a benchy similar(if not better) than the ultimaker shown in this video, only upgrade made was a glass bed for a total of 150€ printer
@@maledetto1221 right? The benchy of the ultimaker was extremely underwhelming compared to results on my Ender 3. I love LTT, but this video is quite misleading and unencuraging for peoplr looking to get into 3D-printing.
Just got an Ender 5 Pro last week, it's amazing to get into the hobby
I got an ender 3 pro and with a glass bed and 2kg of filament it cost $380 cad it is such an impressive unit and it has been working so well. It even came with enough filament to print most of the recommend upgrades.
“ i think we can do better”
LETS OVERCLOCK
AND WATERCOOL THE CRAP OUT OF IT
ADD RGB
WATERCOOLED
Get your LN2 pots ready
It's actually a thing btw.
Making it print consistently at higher print speeds.
_Edit:_ and watercooling the hotend and control board (stepper drivers in particular) would help with that.
Some people even RGB their printers, and I'm not even kidding.
How the hell do you have both of the top comments
Ka_tto wdym
Linus: "Even relatively basic home enthusiast ones"
Also Linus: shows ultimaker
Bradley Childs , i never got flexed on so hard
I was also thing the same thing
No love for the ender 3
Ultimaker has nothing compared to those 30X prusa machines they have hidden in their office right now (see their twitter)
Lmao literally what i was about to say
Linus: speaking of swinging
Me: *raises eyebrow*
Linus: I'm swinging right into this sponsorship Segway
Me: *silent disappointment*
@mery lopez Yup. Even though I already watched it too
@Miguel Madrazo were*, not where
@@Your_Evil_Femboy no, it’s were. “since you we are nice to me” doesn’t make sense.
@@Your_Evil_Femboy That's... no, just no
@@Your_Evil_Femboy you couldn't of been much more wrong
Just being able to print anything in any quality is really cool. Especially if you're a 3d modeller and want to have something physical to show for your work
CMDR lJITimate totally recommend it for anyone into 3D modelling of any kind! I’d been playing around in 3D for years, but then I went to university and had access to a range of printers from low end filament ones up to fancy resin ones and it was a total game changer. Got a second hand one for home and seeing real, solid versions of my models was so amazing
Another UA-camr CHEP reviewed this printer and although it is terrible at PLA it prints flexible filaments insanely well. So much so he calls it the new creepy crawly machine.
I think it is pretty neat for someone that does modeling like miniatures for a wargame or train set. Printing things like barrels, cleaning them up and then painting them. Hundred dollars is not a very steep price for an experimental tool and a first step though that door.
@@SirNarax if you want to throw away 100dollars you could paypal them to me aswell
@@sekazi Anything without a cooling fan is terrible for PLA and you can install a standard cooling fan on the board. This is actually good printer for kids/school environment if there is someone with a bit of experience who can do to setup.
"Basic" 3D printer,
Shows $3000 ultimaker
He even owns a prusa at home
@@officer_baitlyn he has like 30 of them, tho granted not all at home 😆
*Triggered*
For them, $3000 is in the "budget" category.
If yalls want a budget 3d printer buy an ender 3
You'll get a much better experience with a $175 ender 3. Heated bed, part cooling fan, and larger build volume.
got mine for 130 with coupon
micro center has the ender 3 pro for $209! you are correct the enders are amazing
We have a few of these at my school along with an array of CR-10s printers and i can VERY strongly recommend these
Of course. In germany you'd get a Renforce RF100 (good little Printer) for around 170 bucks (take away from the store). They're expensive (got mine used for 25 bucks, Muhahaa), and to be honest: Its a uncomplicated printer.
Load file in Cura, slice it, plug it, print it. The RF100 sucks (lack of part cooling) at overhangs, but the Benchy turned out waaay better than that from Linus.
Twiddling around with the settings and flashing a better Marlin Version (2.0.X) and the RF100 really came alive. ^^
@@jensharbers6702 Check out the Tronxy XY 2 PRO. Got mine new for 150€ from eBay. It´s a essentially a improved Ender 3.
I own a Easy Threed, also have a Ender 3 V2. The Easy is great for test printing, but I’ve used it for final prints. With the right settings in CURA, you can get pretty dang good quality prints! Paid $89 for mine. Nice video!
what settings do you use?
@@isaacwong3883 It’s been so long, two years, that I don’t remember. I did experiment with different print speeds. For this unit, it’s best if it’s a slower speed. It’s a great “learning printer.” And a lot of fun!
"How bad is a $100 3D Printer??" *refresh* "How bad is a $95 3D Printer??" Hmmmm... F5 F5 F5 F5
at fist I saw
"how good can a $100 DC printer be??"
roast me
hmmm
@@gabexyz. r/whoosh
@@gabexyz. please tell me that you are joking, please please PLEASE.... make me believe theres some hope in humanity and that our IQ didn't drop.
"3D printers costs thousands of dollars" also has 30 Prusas
so... if its an i3 mk2s which costs $600 then that will be $18K
@@williamhuang8309 they cost 750 dollars as a kit now (for the mk3s) :(
Just buy the Ender 3 for 140€, it has 10 times the printing volume, much nicer, has a big community etc. Just do researches.
Another cultured person, you have my respect "crealitygang"
Can I get a link at that price point?
Or an Ender 2 for £90/$110
@@mintynuggets watch for sales. I've never seen it quite that cheap, But I just checked a price charting site and it bounces around between $180-$200 on gearbest. Add to that you can sometimes come up with coupons for those sites $175 wouldn't be out of the question. right now it's $199 with free shipping on gearbest, $189 on banggood. (140€ is about $150 US)
@@mintynuggetsJust type Ender 3 on google, search on gear best, ali express, amazon and so on. www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=ender+3 This is the printer
Have you ever heard of an ender 3? It's like less that double that printer and it outperforms your ultimaker 3 out of the box lol
Heck, my Longer LK4 pro cost just a bit more then twice this and has a fancy UI and silent stepper drivers.
That said, having something in the 'super small' form factor that isn't overpriced isn't a bad thing.
@@DFX2KX Well I'd be better off buying a Ender 3 V2 (which i already own) that has a even better ui, community firmwares and is more reliable
@@leonardobassi2440 or even a Voxelab Aquila for 179$, it took what the Ender V2 had and improved it and made itself cheaper
I have an Elegoo Mars 2
Love it for making my own models
@@JRockThumper I just got one and have been using it for the past 2 days. Absolutely love it. Amazing prints right out of box after leveling the bed.
Linus: “This absolutely *SUCKS* ”
Also Linus: “But it is pretty good”
Buy an #Ender3 - period
@@pearcomputers heyo can you brief me on the 3d printer space? What's the best 3dprinter to get for prefferrably
@@pearcomputers Damn you beat me to it. I live by it, I'll die by it. It's cheap as far as 3d printers go and really high quality.
@@mataskart9894 ^^ buy an ender3, (not Pro) direct from Creality. There's nothing close, ur buying a $500 professional cnc frame for less than $200. Watch every assembly video you can (watch the left upright doesn't trap the case lid ;o) but it should take you an hour, with a coffee - the community is massive too.
that's not an endorsement - lol - but there is a reason all 3dp owners should also buy an ender3 and most have.
Pros: everything - Crea's support is good too.
Cons: You need to be happy building stuff to own a 3dp and have some patience. But if you've ever used a screwdriver without harming nearby pets and have at least 1 working limb, or friends that do... you should buy and ender 3 :D
it's not the only good printer, just the best. By far for the money... (this is my opinion not Pears -lol) xxPD
@@pearcomputers I wish I found you a year earlier. I went for a cheap Anet. As they say "A cheap person pays twice".
"Its not that impressive next to our $3500 3d printer"
To be fair it's garbage compared to the Wanhao Duplicator clone I got years and years ago from Monoprice for like $200. And that Wanhao clone was garbage compared to the $750 Prusa MK3 I got last year. So this thing is beyond garbage and not even that low of a price compared to stuff you can get that works much better.
Both of those looked aweful compared to a $99 printer, haha, that expensive one was not tuned well at all, significantly worse than what my old machine will do at 150 to 200 mm/s, like that’s just extra sad...
The $99 printer is the Tronxy X3 with a $0.25 upgrade. And the old machine I’m referring to is a Prusa i3 clone (Anet A8 looks like a significant upgrade over it and those are $79 currently) but heavily modified over the years and tweaked/customized to my needs.
@@jakegarrett8109 Yeah, there's honestly no reason for this printer to exist except for bored enthusiasts with extra who want something different and new to play with. Him pushing this as a good intro printer is just setting a ton of people up for failure.
You should really do a full length video of these 3D printers every price point; $100, $300, $700, then the ones that cost thousands and go through all the pros and cons of each. Or do a series of all the printers below $500. Then another above $500. Then the same for the $1000+ ones.
indeed! i'm in the market for one around $500, but would be interesting to know what i'm gaining over $200 printers and what i'm losing over $3000 printers...
Much as I love LTT there are entire channels dedicated to 3D printers. 3D Nerd is a pretty good one
Thanks for the recommendation
To be honest, you can find many other more experienced channels that already has done that (not me), and has credibility with 3d printers. Some of those channels you find are still pushing affiliate links down your throat, but some aren't.
@@Vlican then you should talk to your local resellers to find their arguments, then look at us UA-camrs for our experience, the truth is often in-between 😁
Left this video happy knowing my ender 3 pro runs circles around that Ultimaker, lol
@Fk Gooogle I picked up an ender 3 pro from amazon for $230 with free shipping but I hear it's even cheaper now. they had a deal going on for getting a basic setup for $150. so far most of my prints come out fine but I have had a few bad ones which are probably associated with my slicer program mixed with printer settings. the stock test prints on the other hand come out amazing.
@@postalpacifist88 I got a v1 for 150 and 2 spools of filament. Maybe that was the deal your buddies were talking about. But mine isn't pro 😕
"Basic enthusiast ones" and puts the ultimaker on screen instead of an Ender 3. Off to a great start
@oscar francis he even owns a mk3 himself
I3 mega is amazing for the price. I like it even better than my ender 3. But not by much
Yeah, it is kind of weird to consider a $5000 machine as a close cousin of this printer. As a more-or-less gold standard, sure. But this would have been way better if they included a printer in the few hundred dollar range.
I think I spent 150 for my ender 3 and it prints better than his ultimaker.
@oscar francis I Laugh. Linus Owns a Prusa Mk3 You can see it in the video where he sets up 100 BT speakers in his house.
"Just like I need to tell you about..."
Let me 3D skip that
I laughed so much at this comment
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°).
Press the L key once to skip 10 seconds forward :P
Well this is a video I never expected to see haha, performance about expected, I don't think those tiny steppers can handle the extrusion forces in general.
Maker's Muse Nice channel 👍
Angus beef
flex on linus and tune it to print a better benchy
I was really hoping I would see you here in the comments!
WOW its Angus!
You can set a minimum layer time which stops the issue when printing on semi-molten plastic
or put a fan?
should've went with an ender 3, cost 175$ and it can do insanely good prints. on par with your ultimaker with an pi + klipper on it
It's also very good for modding
*add a glass bed, the aluminum warp is a pain to level
I recently got ANYCUBIC I3 for 150€, works like a charm
agreed
I had a ender 3 with a factory defect and a buddy of mine had the same issue... figured out it's worth the extra money for the ender 5
"Good entry level printer."
My Ender 3 behind me: "Am I a joke to you?"
also there's the ender 2 which is even cheaper
@@benjaminchaves6047 but ender 3 its so bad. and the Ender 3 is so good for the $$
My i3 mega do a better job then linus his ultimaker....
Ender 3 works perfectly for me, took some tinkering and tweeking the slicer settings (cura) but it works brilliantly good now.
Near flawless Benchy with clear salmon skin tone's due to the lack of TL steppers.
And that for twice the price of this piece of garbage.
Can advice on printing alot of improvements tho :p. (fan directors, fillament guides, fillament roll holder, vertical axis stabalizer, cable reels/holder and some other stuff for the looks.)
So we're not going to talk about Anet A8
10% comments: it's cheap Linus shut up complaining
90% of comments: BUY AN ENDER 3
Seriously it is amazing
shut up complaining
my first printer was the MP mini v2
Wait... IT'S FROM CREALITY!?!?!?!??!?!??
@@ItsMavicBrah Love how he said "Basic Home Enthusiast ones" and showed an Ultimaker 3. Like yeah that aint basic. Ive noticed LTT really likes the use the Slight of hand technique and slighty lie in every argument to make the entire situation seem greatly different to what it truly is.
My Ender 3 Pro is smiling lol
This guy would make a good "AS SEEN ON TV" host
The price keeps dropping!
Tomorrows title -
"How bad is a $50 3D Printer??"
How bad is a dollar 3d printer?
@@nusiel how bad is a free 3d printer?
@@avramitra was great until it fell apart
@Maddox McCarthy Yes this.
lmao
Ender 3, huge community, lots of mods, works great out of box, decent build volume. $200
Just bought mine hope I can set it up no issues. First time setting up and using one
"I mean, we can't recommend PLA for anything structural..."
Just plain wrong. It is a bit brittle, yes, but it is significantly stronger than ABS or PETG for instance. The use of solid infill also shows a lack of experience with the medium, as it is wasteful in both print time and material, contributes very little to strength compared to more perimiters for instance, and will likely cause inaccuracies and warping in the finished part, as it is detrimental for part cooling and will amplify even the tiniest of flow calibration issues. I think the results could be far better if there was someone that knows what they're doing turning the knobs, I would even say the results could be better than the Benchie from their ultimaker, just by tuning the settings in a sensible way.
Petg and abs are actually both stronger than typical blends of pla. However that does not mean pla can't be used for anything structural, quite the contrary.
@@ikillfh844 actually not. Watch some of CNC Kitchen's videos comparing material strength, regular PLA is consistently significantly stronger than ABS and PETG. It is more brittle, yes but it takes more energy to break PLA parts.
@@hotdognr12323 this is true on paper but from personal experience Petg handles shear and tensile stresses better than pla, although this could be down to the adhesion provided by my printer.
@@ikillfh844 It is probably due to the different properties, it feels different to handle, and ABS and PETG can in some cases survive being overloaded to some extent, where PLA would break due to its brittle nature. But my point was that it is factually correct to say that PLA is stronger, and that LTT doesn't really know how to use a printer properly.
Omg thank you so much for saving me the time to type this like that benchi 🤮🤮🤮 it is such a shame how mis used that fine machine is (the ultimat maker ) honestly I feel like he should not do these videos well unless he actually knows what he is talking about
I bought this printer 8 months ago because of you. I have loved every second. Because of this little printer I now have an Ender 3 Pro and am an absolute maniac with printing. Thanks for the amazing hobby.
Going to be honest, I've been printing for about 3 going on 4 years now and the ender 3 basic model is perfect, just got to make sure that it's all tightened so there's no wobbles
Same i have been using my ender 3 for the last 2 years still going strong my first and only 3d printer and still dont feel the need to upgrade yet and have learned prety mutch everything about this printer. Its almost like when you own a car for a long time and know everything about it and dont want to replace it lol
I have also had an ender 3 since launch and recently got an ultimaker S5 and in all honesty the ender 3 has a better print quality on the same settings
5:20 their 5000$ printer is not as good as my 140€ Ender-3 wtf. Do they have any idea how to print?
Ikr, wtf?? I never got such bad print on an ender 3.
Ender 3 xs is great comes with several nozzles and a glass print bed
@xd pperfect What tuning?
Ender 3 is just readying a plane buildplate use cura and go. what tuning? the stringing ect. tuning I never did and I print miniatures for tabletop
@@xXTheBl4ckC4tXx Yeah Cura is just awesome with the creawsome mod now integrated without any tuning, even with magic numbers, thats why so much of the discussion about hardware is just plain stupid, My Ender 3 with only a simple metal extruder kit I had to buy because the old platic one broke, bad luck I guess, produces benchys that are running over even good calibrated, multi-grand expensive machines. Even back when I didnt use the mod at all und just had a pretty much stock profile from Cura, it has done amazing things.
Maybe they do, maybe they don't but, the only thing we can be sure of is that you don't know which side of the number to put the dollar sign on.
Does that man we should try to shame you as well?
We got the Creality Ender 3 printer a few days ago and its been really really good! Its like $180 right now also.
I have it too, it is great
also there's the ender 2 which is even cheaper
Ender 3 is great. I haven't had problems with mine
That's cool!!
"Yeah, that Unity Engine, from Escape from Tarkov" I love the fact that EFT is mentioned in this video, considering the massive amount of other games that use the Unity Engine.
“Yeah, that Source Engine, from The Stanley Parable”
Honestly I'm amazed it works at all. Unity is not whatsoever meant for this..
Unity isn't really meant to make games lmao
@@Topyy Yes, it is. It's a game engine. Who told you that a _fucking game engine_ isn't meant for games?
WTF me of the past ? Am I brain dead, of course I know Unity is a game engine, I'm a fucking game dev.
I think I had a stroked trying to say that Unity isn't GOOD at making games or something
Linus, you should look into the Ender 3, it's slightly more expensive (on sale ~140$) but it's quality is amazing. For the extra 40$ compared to the X1 it is a lot more capable as it has a heated bed. Fan to cool the part and a much larger print volume. I would recommend it to anyone looking to get into the 3D printing world not just for the reasons mentioned but aswel it has a huge online community to solve any issues you have
They actually bought 30x prusa mk3s , and are using them in their office right now to make face masks. (See their twitter for clips :) )
i got an ender 3 pro for sale for 180
I love my ender 3
I'm still waiting for as 3D printer where I can just melt the damn coke bottles to get my filaments from.
YAS QUEEN, it's the best budget printer, after 1 year, upgrades and different nozzles, it still runs like a dream
I can’t believe that the ender 3 wasn’t mentioned.
ender 3 is bae
@@gardenguy357 BAE!
these guys dont know much about the printing world lol
Because it's crap compared to prusa. Compared to this $100 one it's better but it's pretty easy to hear
Just spend twice as much and get the Ender 3, Linus.
Or get a used one or DIY One.
I know someone who got ahold of one through Banggood for 110 bucks. That's only 20 more than this crap.
The Ender 3 is absolutely perfect, have it myself. Prints better than our Uktimaker 2+ in my old school with its uneven printbed.
linus already has a prusa at his house
I bought an Ender 3 for my sister's son for $120 when it was in offer
That cat model has been sitting on my desk for two years and thought my friend 3D rendered it
F
I recommend getting an Ender 3 to start with. It’s less than $200 and it has pretty good quality after you fine tune it
... and after some upgrades that you'll learn over time, you can do ABS, Carbon Fibre and other goodies....
yep if you want to dedicate time and effort to tweak stuff and
reprint parts ~100 euro printers are nice.
I started with Tronxy P802M a clone of a clone. and now the quality of
prints puts a lot of name brand ones to shame. i did replace a lot of
parts and even added auto leveling and a server running on ubuntu that
works flawlessly. now thinking of rebuilding the whole chassis and
adding heated chamber.
And then maybe il add RAMPS board. but at that point it will be mostly
custom printer and cant really be called a tronxy/anet
if you dont have the willpower to read and to learn how to customize hardware and firmware etc. then i would not recommend printers bellow 200$. buy some prebuilt and properly calibrated one
C C why the hell would you bother with a ramps board, get an skr
2:16
when you leave the jacuzzi after staying for 3 hours
Creality?? Why even say Prusa it’s like twice the price
I think prusa used to be cheap but once it started getting sales it went up in price
I'm very happy with my CR 10 Max, considering all of the problems everyone seems to have with their printer.
@@andypandy5781 original prusa never where cheap, but they are one of the best end user printers out there.
They are part of the community nearly since the start of diy 3D printer and they have a great support and manual as they know what they are doing.
You pay that much as you pay for the inovations they do, too. Everyone else just uses their design and know how and sell it cheaper.
Sure an ender-3 can print as good as an prusa mk3s, but the qc is a lot worse from creality, support can be hit or miss and you never know when they make changes and tell no one about it.
A ender-3 needs a silent board of some kind, and theirs is overpriced.
Creality machines are only that good, because they have a giant community behind them since the cr-10 and "implemented" the core addons and safety changes the community made, mostly without even credit to the original designer of them. And there was a giant battle till they made the stuff public, as they are required to as the designs and software they use are open source. We have Sexycyborg to thank for that.
@@xl000 I'm waiting for the White Knight project to roll out the CR-30 conversion kit.
Play cs, stop watching 3d print vids nerd
This is the printer I had when I first started. It broke in less than a month, so i switched to the Ender 3
I remember the early days of 3D printing when a printer this small and simple would be considered a "repstrap." Just enough of a 3D printer with just enough volume to print the parts to build a better 3D printer. LOL
I kinda miss the repstrap days. Slap together enough of a gantry out of erector set, lego and your wife's cosmetic tools to squirt out the parts of a Mendel.
I actually did that when I was building my AM8 kit
Oh god, I remember that. The articles were hilarious.
Yeah, the more I think about the "bootstrap" nature of this little printer, its easily worth the $100. If you were to try to build a repstrap to get started, I doubt you could beat that price by much, if at all.
"speaking of swinging" - Yvonne dies a little for a second
'Dies' or get excited? Wink wink
@@WigglyWings After the small penis comments at Linus' roast, maybe a glimmer of excitement.
sparkyenergia she was just kidding we all know Linus packs an 11 incher
never thought i'd see that day that LTT would review this little guy
side note: works good this TPU
It's insane how 95$ today gets you a very decent 3d printer
The fact that this exists is just mindblowing. I've been 3D printing for a few years now, and my current printer is cheapass Alfawise U20 that I bought for circa 250 buckes, with 30*30*40cm volume, which is frankly enough for nearly anything you could want to print. This technology is very easy to use, fun and pretty cheap nowadays. Let's remember the early days when it was science fiction ... Insane, really.
Hey I've got a Longer LK4 which I think might just be a kinda clone of the U30
How is the U20? I would like to have something with that print volume as I would be making mostly structural parts
@@ccricers I can recommend it. I print in PLA, ABS and PETG and it works well (of course for ABS you need an enclosure). I do mostly fast prototyping for my cars and motorcycles (the last one I did is yesterday, I 3D printed a caliper mount for my CB Twin in order to adapt a modern hydraulic brake). I printed Linus' test bed for PCs, I printed parts for car interiors, replacement parts for home .... The big volume is definitely a plus.
Can you print a pp ?
CREALITY ENDER-3 160$ Best cheap 3D printer
And that has a huge community available for support, modifications, and inspiration.
MICHAL_C900, indeed... listen to this guy
Out the box? No. With the right mods? Yeah.
Hell, I still haven't gotten the autolevel mod situated and regret not just doing the mod that speeds up adjusting the bed instead.
@@InfernosReaper I own ender 3 and i changed only two things glass bed for around 15$ and the stock tensioning arm for a 3d printed from thingiverse
@@michal_c9007 Auto-level mod is why I couldn't afford the glass bed. I though not having to be *as precise* with leveling the bed would've been the better move. It wasn't and now I'm just kinda stuck making do until things get to where I can order what I *should* have.
Once I get that to work and get the other upgrades, it should be a pretty sweet setup
This printer looks like someone buy a 3D printer, print out a 3D printer and refund the one he bought.
it does & that's adorable
@white To make the same part in steel, You'd need the molds, a milling machine, steel sheets and a hydraulic press. So at least 4 persons for it all, and hours to make a full set. In plastic, you need the molds, one guy to check it all, and you make tens of them in minutes.
@white Actually, some do. The first of the two printers they recommended at the end, the Monoprice MP Select Mini, uses a sheet metal frame. The company they've cloned it from, Wanhao, uses sheet metal to construct all of their printers and it does indeed make for a more rigid, better printer. Prusa also uses sheet metal for the frame of their i3 printers. If you're interested, check out 3D Printing Nerd, Maker's Muse, or Thomas Sanladerer. They're maker channels that actually know what they're talking about when it comes to 3D printers.
@white For 5mm steel plate, it's still going to be orders of magnitude slower than plastic parts. Deburring alone would take a while.
“Basically no competition in this price range”
Ender 3 pro has entered the chat
"yo dawg, we heard you like 3D printers... So we printed you a 3D printer from a 3D printer!!"
Imagine these videos 10 years from now. "Best budget 3d printer under 50$"
Nobody gonna mention the Ender 3 for $200? I’ve had one for two years and haven’t had a major issue yet
I saw one other comment about it
Or my Ender clone the Geeetech A10. Got it for 160€ and is running perfectly for a few months now.
Literally every other comment mentions the Ender 3
Nobody else gonna mention how every other comment mentions the Ender 3? Anyone?
To be honest: I buy this for my son as he was very curious about 3D printing. I was amazed how much projects we develop on this "garbage". At all this is not a garbage if you know how to use it. We build holders for electronics, enclosures for small projects. Our printer have a material cooling and i must tell that I am pretty amazed what possibilities we get in this price. Now son is 10 years old and he teach Fusion360 very well so today we ordered a new printer from Anycubic. I think I give Easythreed to my friend son so he can try some 3D printing.
That’s so awesome!
Ender 3 + Cura Slicer + Creawesome Mod = Profit
There's already a v2 with a part cooling fan and an absolutely tiny lcd display w/control knob
amazing
sugoi
"A Basic enthusiast printer" - shows a 4k USD printer. DUDE Anycubic selling for about 350 right now, and is approx the top of the entry line printers (or was recently). Please dont do such "shock value" type stuff, it undercuts your credibility
ender 3 for 150€ is also quite ok
but please not that plastic thing to throw away! =/
Iavor Hristov watch the video and stop getting triggered in the first 20 seconds
@@Authan65 no, no, hes got a point
I honestly liked the rest of the video, but it is a misrepresentation of the medium. If this is your first exposure to 3d printing you'd think "Wow this printer is 35x cheaper than the beginner models others sell!"
@@Yavorh55 Yes, exactly!
a lot of the problems they were having were probably because the print bed wasn't leveled. I made some adjustments to mine following labist's video and i'm getting much better prints
Lit
Also, e steps
“How good is a $100 3D printer”
1min later
“How BAD is a $95 3D printer”
Everyone just clicks when the title changes because they think it will be better
Actually, I clicked today because I didnt have time to watch yesterday when it was uploaded.
They still let users believe it works if you tweak it more
No wonder something was off when I clicked the video, before I clicked it had one title, when I started watching it was different.
Some solutions to the melty smoke stack:
You could set a minimum layer time in the slicing software so the hot end dwells somewhere for a set time before beginning the next layer.
You could insert some small tower off to the side to force the hot end to travel and thus add more time to the layer.
If the print bed is big enough or the part is small enough you could just print more than one at a time.
6:30 Minimum layer time and waiting off print
Kai Sörensen, yes. And maybe also a lower print temp if you are already going with minimum layers time and slowing down the printer
True thought about the same here.
I love how the price shot up right after this video was posted
last night it was $79, sadly didn't have enough to buy it, but I wanted to since it's so cheap
@@Shaggyfauvorite didn't have $75?! Poor ass bitch lmao!
@@Flyingboots1 some people have higher priorities than throwing money at a printer, on a whim. Like, I dunno rent/mortgage, food, car payments, etc.
Perhaps they already spent their "play budget"
@@cwalke32477 like I said, "poor ass bitch"
@@Flyingboots1 Rude
Linus: speaking of swinging
Me: oh God don't do it
Linus: I'm swinging into the sponsor Segway!
Me: (╯°□°)╯︵ ┻━┻
hahahha
LINUS!! Why buy this when you can buy a Creality Ender 3 for 50 more dollars and actually get a pretty darn similar quality to an Ultimaker with the right tuning?! Just sayin'
Very true
So is the ender better your wording has confused me
@@cyrusvile6622 im actually looking for a cheap 3d printer, what are the downs of creality ender 3?
@@Ulvorskets I just got a v1. It's pretty darn good. But I think people opt for the v2 because of the firmware updates. I think it has better steppers and ui. Idk there's plenty of comparisons out there.
@@cardboardtruck1009 it is in many ways: it has a heated bed, 235x235cm bed, part cooling fan. it can literally outperform an ultimaker 3 out of the box.
Since everyone else has already mentioned the Ender, I feel I should mention the other glaring issue with this video... CURA! For the love of god, Linus, people expect you to lead them to the good stuff... those slicer options you presented are as much garbage as the toy printer. Ender 3, Cura, done! That should be your video when it comes to entry level 3D printing.
Well I think prusaslicer is better than Cura and the issues are largely the printers fault. But you are right. An Ender 3 is the best cheap option.
A lot of the problems are definitely their slicer settings, I'm using cura with this printer and I'm not having any underfill problems. The only issue is the lack of part cooling.
@@itxi I would agree with that
Cura is nice for tree supports but is so much slower than prusa in terms of rendering and print time
@@ps3customgamer I will be honest, I have not actually worked with prusaslicer, but at first glace it doesn't seem to be nearly as "tweekable" as cura.
I suppose it may be better if you are using presets for stuff, but I prefer defining all the temps and speeds myself.... which is why I was a little confused when you said prusa gives better print times. It's possible that you are making this comparison with the default settings in cura (?).
I don't know about prusa, but in cura, all the variables that determine print time are adjustable by me, so I have them dialed in to as fast as it will print and still give good results.
I started with this little printer and after a short while I had the settings just right to 3D print all kinds of items for modeling trains. I used this printer to learn 3D printing methods and upgraded to an Ender 3 v2.
"Speaking of swinging..."
I was genuinely concerned for what would follow this segway.
How about a Creality Ender 3. It's a good priced printer that works amazingly well.
OK it's some months later but ... I got an Ender 3 Pro end of October 2020 for about 150€ from the big "A" (No, not the Avengers! Try again!). I think that little extra money is well paid. Admittedly I wanted this one more for some tinkering and getting some experience in the 3D-business at last. I am still waiting to get a reasonable resin printer (missed out the first Saturn-batch). Until I get one, I will keep on tinkering with the Ender. It's quite nice. And yes, there's always a bigger fish in the pond. But for the beginning, the Ender will do.
@@erebus1964 if you get the ender a bit dialed in and you build it with measuring lengts, straight corners and so on, it can compete with a prusa mini, also stop with finding and installing "upgrades" that are useless, or *thinkering* i mean what some do, put the extruder on top so it is a direct drive but they dont want to buy a hotend so it still has bowden tube in then you just made the x carriage way too heavy for the single z motor and the print speed is half of the original. only upgrade you need is better springs for the bed, aluminium extruder and after a year a blue capricorn bowden tube, after that just make prints with it
@@FoxSock well english is not my native sorry. Also he Said that he will never stop thinkering, that is just stupid and those are the people that eventually make a mistake and break something or short something out and then come on Facebook to cry for help or complain on a company because its a factory part that broke
"Speaking of swinging..."
And that's my cue to leave!
*swing out! lulz
I would love more 3d printer videos, I know Dan has done some but it would be fun to do videos around them
When Linus said 'swinging', I was triggerd and expected something juicy. But no.... LOL. :D
I stared at the thumbnail for a while trying to figure out what he printed before I realized I was looking at the printer.
A Linus video isn't a Linus video without his "smooooooth" segways.
6:30 this problem can be fixed by printing 2 or 3 benchies at once, so while its printing one smokestack it can give it time to cool by moving on to the other model
Can you guys do a semi-full breakdown/review of the whole 3d printer market? Like just an overview of what quality you can expect at each price point?
6:13 i dont know what you talking about that looks great, its like a cthulhu ghost ship
It looks like they 3D printed the plastic on the 3D printer lmao
I'm sorry but the whole idea of a sub $100 is a gimmick if you consider an ender 3 is a workhorse at $160. It can print multiple materials, on a reasonably large print bed and as you grow in the hobby it's open source design allows for a ton of upgradeability /customization
2:00
Would have to disagree strongly. PLA is great for mechanical/structural printing in most cases, aslong as the ambient temperature doesnt get too high.
It has high stiffness and high resistance to (plastic) deformation.
ABS has big layer adhesion issues (even when printing at like 260C), making the Z Axis a big weak spot for most forces, even more so then with other FDM plastics.
ABS also easily deforms plasticly very easily, which isnt really desirable for most uses.
A PLA printed part will most often withstand much higher forces in all axis compared to an ABS print.
The only real downside to PLA is its temperature resistance and the fact that it isnt really a solid in room temperature (it still "flows" *very* slowly when force is applied, but it would take years/decades to make a real impact).
Pla is a lot easier to print, but if you want durability you should better use ABS, Petg or maybe PLA with carbon fiber, Standard PLA cant really take that much force withput breaking unless you waste a lot of material in infill
@@swe872 ABS is much stronger than PLA when injection molded. That is not true for 3D printing. You can do the tests, especially the Z-Axis will be much less durable, because layer bonding is an even bigger issue with ABS, even with a proper profile and printer and high quality ABS. But also both other axis will deform plasticly with ABS way before PLA breaks, making it more durable for most applications, because plastic deformation is in most use cases equal to a brake.
ABS is good for its high glass transition temperature for 3d printing only.
If you want durable, PETG is the way to go, if you dont want to invest in ultra high temp printing.
If PLA is weaker in your prints maybe its because you have a non optimal profile for PLA. PLA loves walls more than infill. Rule of thumb is 4 walls for normal prints and 6+ for anything durable. It makes prints much stronger than increasing the infill and is cheaper too. ABS doesnt profit comparatively that much from wall count, because its more elastic. Also PLA gets really brittle if printed under about 210C (even more than normal). 220-230C is the optimal printing temperature for durability for pretty much every brand I printed with so far and that includes no name to higher end 50$/kg filament.
But also important is the note that cheap PLA is really really bad most of the time. Sure you can print pretty figures with it just fine, but in my experience cheap PLA is much more brittle than higher quality filament.
Maybe your PLA test are different because of temperature, i live in stupidly Hot place, maybe my pla is weaker and a lot more brittle because of its temperature, im not an abs fan(because of bending and its annoying af to print) but i have tried out a few to times to have a better finish by acetone bathing them and after the same piece(some really cool drumsticks) previously printed with pla broke with 1 or two hits, the abs one lasted aproximately, 3 minutes of continue usage. Try printing abs with 245° and it would come alo stronger. I still prefer using petg or carbon fiber/pla anyway
@@swe872 CNC kitchen did a test between PLA, ABS , and PETG and PLA won in strength
Your ultimaker seems to have some ghosting issues. I'd recommend a belt tensioner and or turning down the speed a little
The printer that costs like 3 coils of 1kg of decent filament. This world is crazy... :)
I just bought the Monoprice MP Select V2 and I have to say I’m very impressed by the print quality and accuracy!
I mean, there's the Monoprice Select Mini, which goes for $150 a few times a year and has actual customer support...
Looks like Yvonne used it to print Linus a razor.
Got em
i think this was prerecorded
@@zebrad it has to be
Linus: "That turned into a hot gooey blob"........Well if you ever run out of hair gel.
1:35 cd is now officially old technology
You tested this for how long?
The biggest problem with cheap printers is how soon they die. It might look fine initially but not after a while.
I can guarantee those bearings and rods will wear out to the point nothing will be printable after just a handful of prints. Thing doesn't even "work" after that making even $100 too expensive.
Yea but I don't really think it's meant for hundreds of projects at that price point. But I mean it's good for just $95.00. 👌
This never looked fine, though. None of the prints I saw him do were even close to passable. And this is with a team of people who know, sometimes, what they're doing. This is a fun toy for an enthusiast with money to spare to play with as a lark. It's not good for anyone's first printer at all. They'd just end up frustrated with a $95 paperweight and 3 yards of melted globs of PLA.
@@justme002 The description on this vid and Linus' tone was basically saying it is fine.
@@umbra1016 I know, but it's really not. This printer is literally hot garbage.
I'm gonna print a second 3d printer and return the first one
I think the extruder needs to be calibrated because I had some issues with under extrusion due to the ESteps being trash. Also the best 3d printer for starting out might be an ender 3. You can buy them for like 150 new.
WE NEED AN UPDATED $95 PRINTER VIDEO
Bro legit just spend an extra $30 for the Creality Ender 3. I guarantee it’s better and much more people have it, so there’s a better community too
BOB Soup love my ender 3
"We can't recommend pla for anything structural" please say that to my model rockets and racing drones made of pla it's not the material it's how you design it...
“Basic home enthusiast”
*Shows ultimaker*
weebles ABS is better in that application especially (impact and shock, and ABS is typically 4x stronger in impact than PLA), also it handles the heat much better. The Shuty/Gluty I assume you are referring to is designed fairly heavy, so either should be fine, if it’s just Armalite lowers then those things should have very little stress on them (they are just a catching a handle and holding a magazine basically), so you could make them out of very weak materials and it would still be fine.
@@jakegarrett8109 Depends on what you're doing, really. ABS has issues.
Best choice is a good nylon. At least for firearms. ABS is just too finicky to really be worth it for a lot of stuff, honestly. Though most designs are built with PLA in mind, anyway, as I understand it. At least, that's the case for the glock lowers, and as I recall the FGC-9
The River Acis yeah PLA is the “easiest” starting material, and since the point of 3D printed firearms is to make it as accessible as possible, then it’s typically engineered to use the compromised material. I haven’t had much issue with ABS on my machines, I take into account shrinkage with basic scaling (like 1% etc). For my newest printer (one I had 0 rolls of ABS through), I found that simply cutting a cardboard box with a hole in the middle for the nozzle to move along the rail and letting it sag at the ends basically made a decent enclosure, so instead of a box it just acts like a drooped parachute trapping in the heat and lifts as Z travels up, that one I did fine at 90c heated bed (textured surface magnetic flexible bed), my old machine on glass I used 110c on the bed with washable glue stick lightly applied but removal was quite a pain, haha, I had broken a few glass beds trying to get those things off, haha!
I think Nylon might be more difficult than ABS, but I think of ABS as extremely easy since it’s been so reliable for me, and once I set it up, it’s good for years, haha, the hard part is when I have to change things going back to PLA...). So not finicky, but like every other material you need the setup correct (for PLA it’s fans on the part, no heat. For ABS I’ve actually done some no heat by accident on my new machine with textured plate and it somehow worked, which blew my mind).
Oh the other reason for not using ABS is due to machine cost, many basic printers don’t have heated beds (most do now, but 5+ years ago it was actually a big feature to look for), so if you had to use it you’d significantly reduce the people that even could make the item.
My campus has some Ultimakers for students to use and they only allow PLA printing because it produces no health hazard.
Just like we need to tell you about....
Me- skips 10 sec
Me: skips 40 seconds
There is an $150.00 resin 3D printer made by Voxelab. While SLA 3D printing is a more involved process than FDM 3D printing, it will give you better quality parts.
this video: 100 dollar 3d printer
video in my recomendation : 5000 dollar graphics card
dhimant tewari. Artificially inflated prices koch koch NVDIA
Yeaaaa ender 3 is the best deal, been out for years. I have had the ender 3 pro for a couple years and it is still running strong.
If you look at mechanical tests you'll see that PLA is actually a pretty good choice for structural parts though it deteriorates over time especially outdoors.
Guillaume DEBREGEAS. Yes indeed. It is just not good under long term stress paired with high stress levels and it is just not good with temperature, but i dont think that for regular use PLA is unuseable
PLA's not something I'd want to use for certain applications, but it's good for a lot of basic stuff.
With my current financial situation i can only buy the PLA filament