Great video. To anyone attempting this job, pay attention to the caliper slide pin locations, one has a rubber bushing and is a smaller diameter than the one without the bushing. If you get it wrong you’ll likely end up with uneven brake pad wear. 😊
This is the BEST Highlander rotor and brake replacement video I have seen yet. Thank you for being the only one I have found to include the torque specs!!!
I'm so thankful that I found your video as I have watched over a dozen brake videos several of which were only dealing with checking, cleaning and lubing the caliper sliding pins. I had just under 30,000 miles ( 50,000 kilometers ) on my 2017 Highlander and was still under the "free" services. The vehicle had been " gone over " 7800 kms ( 4500 miles) earlier and the front brake pads were assessed at 70% remaining so I was expecting just the basic oil change and inspection of fluids etc. so I was surprised when I received a phone call from the dealership 15 minutes after dropping the car off. I was told that the front brakes were seized and the pads ( 4500 miles after being 70% ) were at under 15%. This was apparently because the caliper slide pins had seized ( they had been serviced at the previous service ) so that's why I have watched vids focusing on the slide pins. A couple things I noticed watching other brake videos including 2 Toyota made videos and watching yours. You didn't mention or show the brake pad shims being installed or lubed. Toyota has specific spots where you apply the grease on the shims and the brake pad box shows where to put the just less than a dime sized bit of grease. I also have seen several videos showing that it is important to clean the old grease out of the bore ( the hole that the caliper slide pins slide into ) being careful to not damage the rubber boot. No grease should be applied on the end of the pin as this may prevent the pin from being able to fully go into the bore. As you said, use a LIGHT coat of silicon brake caliper slide pin grease as too much will also effect the pin's ability to slide fully. Strangely the Toyota brake pad installation video said to NOT put grease on the caliper bracket where the ends of the pads fit but all other videos suggest a light amount of the proper grease. Also, when pulling the rotors off a rubber or metal hammer tapping on the hub area could be helpful ( yours are obviously well maintained as the hubs were not very rusted at all but a careful cleaning with a small wire brush followed by a light coating of anti-seize on the surface of the hub could help future rotor removal. Great video and thanks for mentioning the torque numbers, 25 lb feet for the rear caliper bolts???? ( the only video that I've seen that mentioned that). I didn't watch the last 2 minutes so I hope you mentioned to get in and start the engine and pump the brake pedal until you get a firm pedal before moving the vehicle.
When he said , " a thin layer of caliper grease ," I subscribed. Every other YTUBE brake parts changer dude either doesn't clean & re-grease or puts big globs of grease. If you depress the caliper bolt, and it pops out once you remove pressure, then you have too much caliper grease. Thanks for professional job.
This might be the best DIY video I’ve ever seen. I’ve done many brake jobs, so I was just looking for a few tips before I do my wife’s Highlander for the first time. I think my 17-year old daughter with no repair skills at all could do the brakes after watching this video! It’s that good!
WHAT????? $1300 for pads alone? I had the rear pads and rotors done ( caliper slide pins had seized, 2nd time this has happened, the other time it was the fronts but pads only luckily ) for $700 Canadian dollars. I will do it myself next time and will be doing the front pads and likely the rotors in a few weeks.
Great video, the torque specs were very helpful. I would add to newbies, to keep an eye on the brake fluid level in the reservoir as you compress the pistons, as you don't want it to overflow. After I had done both front brakes, the reservoir was almost topped out, so I had to remove some fluid with a syringe to bring it back down to the max fluid level.
Great suggestion. But if your brake fluid reservoir almost overflow that might mean there is too much fluid in the system. Happy you found the video helpful 😊
@@trackpalmer when the brake pads wear down the fluid level goes down as well. After installing new thicker pads the brake piston doesn't have to move out as much so replacing both front and rear pads would have more effect on brake fluid levels.
Wow! Such a comprehensive and fantastic video! Thank you for giving such details as you do the brakes. You leave no stone unturned! You got my full respect for such an excellent job!
My 4th time watching this but this time I just wanted to watch the parts where you torqued the calliper bracket and calliper pin bolts. I have watched several videos about this process as I’m going to change the front rotors and pads and the front left calliper as mine has a small piece missing out of the rubber boot for the upper piston so I suspect it may have damaged that piston. I am using Toyota rotors and pads as they are quality parts and I know they will fit. The calliper is a NAPA calliper. On this 4th time watching your video I noticed a couple things. One is that you used your floor jack to lift one side. There is a spot just behind the bottom of the radiator in the center that the owners manual approves as a jacking point. This would speed things up quite a bit for you as you only have to use the jack once to do both sides. There is also a spot listed in the owners manual to lift the entire back end as well. I am also thinking of using some blue thread locker ( medium strength ) on the calliper pin bolts at least ( the ones torqued to 25-26 lb feet ). I won’t do the same on the calliper bracket bolts though as I don’t want it to be any harder to remove those in the future if needed.
Thank you very much for your help, sir. I do have one question. After performing the rear brake pad and rotor replacement, I am getting contact between pads and rotor. I pumped the brakes a few times, drove it around the neighborhood, jacked it up again. When I tried to spin the rear tires, I could feel and hear contact between pads and rotors is still there. Is this normal and will correct in due time or did I do something wrong? Thank you again!
Did you replace the shims? It could be the parking brake too. If you confirmed it’s the brake pads and rotors there are several reasons that could be happening. It could be the caliper, master cylinder, the brake pads. Did you use genuine pads or aftermarket?
You always makes great videos brother. I have a 2016 highlander, one side of the steering wheel lights out can you please make a video and show me how to replace the bulb? Thank you 🙏🙏🙏
What's a steering wheel light? Headlight? Signal light? Fog / driving light? Only the driving lights are kind of hard to change but the high beams are easy although the low beam bulbs are a little awkward in a 2017-2019.
why didnt you have to bleed the breaks for the rear break pad change? i saw that you compressed the piston, but didnt open the bleeder. wouldnt that cause more pressure in the break line?
There was no need to bleed the brake line because it was not open. Opening the brake line create the possibility for air to get in the brake line. Compressing the piston with the brake fluid reservoir bottle open push the fluid back in the reservoir bottle so no air got in the brake line.
Thank you for the response. I will be changing my breaks for the first time on my Highlander tomorrow. Very informative vid. I didn't see you open the reservoir.
I am also having trouble finding wear indicators for a 2008 highlander. The ones the pads come with do not seem to fit. ere you able to find appropriate wear indicators? If you were, where did you get them?
He didn't install wear indicators but I'm pretty sure they come with authentic Toyota brake pads. If you pull the wheels once a year or so to check the caliper slide pins you will have a pretty good idea of the remaining brake pad thickness. If the caliper aren't checked once a year or very 20,000 miles they could seize and cause the pads to wear out very quickly.
Might be time to replace the lug studs when replacing your rotors. There might be gaps where the studs sits through the rotor opening. Let me know what you think
9could be many things but if it happened right after the brakes were done it might b the pads which move a bit are making that noise. It doesn't hurt to put a small dim sized dab of grease ( I think that authentic Toyota brake pads com with a small amount of grease as well as a diagram on the box showing where to put the grease on th back of the pads according to what type of pad / caliper you have.
@@trackpalmer EXCELLENT ! Thank you !!! And for the rear I am guessing the same? I am reading things that are all over the board that the back bracket needs to be 110? But I am guessing from your video the front and back can be the same 77 Thanks again !! Awesome video
the 2 bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket are torqued to 76-77 lb ft. and the 2 bolts that screw into the end of the caliper slide pins are torqued to 25-26. The wheel lug nuts are also torqued to 76-77.
Is it cheaper to change your break pads from a mechanic than doing it at the Dealer? I’m just asking because Toyota is charging me over $650 to change both of my break pads in the front.
@@trackpalmer True they told me that i needed to change my spark plugs i have 6 so each one cost $18 in total i spent like around $108 i believe & toyota wanted to charge me $750 but my friend did it for me for $300 a bunch of thieves i say. my battery the same thing they wanted to charge me over $400 & that dane battery they installed i saw it for $123.
Quick way too remove hard to remove rotors is put a piece of wood between rotor and frame, then carefully and slowly turn wheel towards frame. Rotate rotor and repeat if really stuck, DON'T force it to much or you could break something.
@@trackpalmer most brake rotors also have one or two small threaded holes that a bolt can be turned into to help remove the rotor. A Toyota Tech guy who does videos mentioned that one of the bolts that hold the metal heat shield that covers the exhaust manifold can be removed and fits these / this hole.
On a 2017 Highlander apparently there is a couple threaded holes on the OEM rotors where a caliper Bolt will fit in. You can use this to try to remove a hard to remove rotor. It's suggested to not use the caliper Bolton though because if you strip that you aren't finishing the job until you get another bolt. Apparently the bolt that holes the exhaust manifold heat shield on works and you can drive the vehicle without one of those for a few days if you need to order a new bolt.
For my 2014 Highlander V6, XLE.... Front & Rear Pads are $75/ea.($150 total) from any Toyota dealership. It is a bad deal because those pads (sold by Toyota) are NOT Toyota Factory Replacement; they are TCMC (Toyota Complete Maintenance Care (of much inferior quality)! Also the front rotors (I made the mistake to buy them) are $112/ea. - they had rust all over and a few nicks. Just absolutely HORRIBLE! We have bought Toyotas (Camry, RAV4, 4RUNNER, and the Highlander) for the last 15 years but after seeing that I am done with Toyota. This is a company that reached its zenith (quality wise) around 2010. Since then, there is only one direction Toyota has decided to go : DOWNHILL
Thanks for sharing your experience! It's important to shop around and compare prices for parts. There are good aftermarket parts fire brakes. Genuine Toyota brake is great
not much harder than an oil change but of course it takes longer keep grease off the side of the pads that contact the rotor, us brake clean to remove and oil / grease from the brake disk and most importantly PUMP THE BRAKES BEFORE backing up or pulling forward. You will have no brakes until you do and even mechanics have backed out of thee shop and smashed into a car in the parking lot
Great video. To anyone attempting this job, pay attention to the caliper slide pin locations, one has a rubber bushing and is a smaller diameter than the one without the bushing. If you get it wrong you’ll likely end up with uneven brake pad wear. 😊
Thanks for sharing
Thank you
That's a really nice advice
God level comment
Where is the one without bushing? Looks like both pins have bushing
Where does the shorter one go ? Top or bottom??
This is the BEST Highlander rotor and brake replacement video I have seen yet. Thank you for being the only one I have found to include the torque specs!!!
Glad it helped
I'm so thankful that I found your video as I have watched over a dozen brake videos several of which were only dealing with checking, cleaning and lubing the caliper sliding pins. I had just under 30,000 miles ( 50,000 kilometers ) on my 2017 Highlander and was still under the "free" services. The vehicle had been " gone over " 7800 kms ( 4500 miles) earlier and the front brake pads were assessed at 70% remaining so I was expecting just the basic oil change and inspection of fluids etc. so I was surprised when I received a phone call from the dealership 15 minutes after dropping the car off. I was told that the front brakes were seized and the pads ( 4500 miles after being 70% ) were at under 15%. This was apparently because the caliper slide pins had seized ( they had been serviced at the previous service ) so that's why I have watched vids focusing on the slide pins. A couple things I noticed watching other brake videos including 2 Toyota made videos and watching yours. You didn't mention or show the brake pad shims being installed or lubed. Toyota has specific spots where you apply the grease on the shims and the brake pad box shows where to put the just less than a dime sized bit of grease. I also have seen several videos showing that it is important to clean the old grease out of the bore ( the hole that the caliper slide pins slide into ) being careful to not damage the rubber boot. No grease should be applied on the end of the pin as this may prevent the pin from being able to fully go into the bore. As you said, use a LIGHT coat of silicon brake caliper slide pin grease as too much will also effect the pin's ability to slide fully. Strangely the Toyota brake pad installation video said to NOT put grease on the caliper bracket where the ends of the pads fit but all other videos suggest a light amount of the proper grease. Also, when pulling the rotors off a rubber or metal hammer tapping on the hub area could be helpful ( yours are obviously well maintained as the hubs were not very rusted at all but a careful cleaning with a small wire brush followed by a light coating of anti-seize on the surface of the hub could help future rotor removal. Great video and thanks for mentioning the torque numbers, 25 lb feet for the rear caliper bolts???? ( the only video that I've seen that mentioned that). I didn't watch the last 2 minutes so I hope you mentioned to get in and start the engine and pump the brake pedal until you get a firm pedal before moving the vehicle.
Happy it helped
When he said , " a thin layer of caliper grease ," I subscribed. Every other YTUBE brake parts changer dude either doesn't clean & re-grease or puts big globs of grease.
If you depress the caliper bolt, and it pops out once you remove pressure, then you have too much caliper grease.
Thanks for professional job.
🧐
🫡
Ah did you not see the video? He put a shit ton of grease.
As others have mentioned, this is probably the most thorough brake/rotor replacement video I've seen on YT. Excellent work.
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful.
This is the best DIY video I’ve found for the Highlander. About to start my front brake job now! Thank you.
Awesome! Thank you!
This might be the best DIY video I’ve ever seen. I’ve done many brake jobs, so I was just looking for a few tips before I do my wife’s Highlander for the first time. I think my 17-year old daughter with no repair skills at all could do the brakes after watching this video! It’s that good!
Appreciate that!
Excellent tutorial on changing brake pads and rotors for ANY vehicle. Been following this same process for decades.
Thank you. Hope you clicked the like button :)
Great video right to the point thanks socket sizes saves time going back to the tool box 👏👍
Happy to help🫡
Very thorough! I will be replacing the pads on my wife’s Highlander in the spring. The dealer wants $1300 just to replace the pads!!
Happy you like the video. Smash that like button ✅👍
WHAT????? $1300 for pads alone? I had the rear pads and rotors done ( caliper slide pins had seized, 2nd time this has happened, the other time it was the fronts but pads only luckily ) for $700 Canadian dollars. I will do it myself next time and will be doing the front pads and likely the rotors in a few weeks.
Impeccable description and guide... Perfect format, professional commentary and real time video ... A++++
Much appreciated!🫡
Great video, the torque specs were very helpful. I would add to newbies, to keep an eye on the brake fluid level in the reservoir as you compress the pistons, as you don't want it to overflow. After I had done both front brakes, the reservoir was almost topped out, so I had to remove some fluid with a syringe to bring it back down to the max fluid level.
Great suggestion. But if your brake fluid reservoir almost overflow that might mean there is too much fluid in the system. Happy you found the video helpful 😊
@@trackpalmer when the brake pads wear down the fluid level goes down as well. After installing new thicker pads the brake piston doesn't have to move out as much so replacing both front and rear pads would have more effect on brake fluid levels.
Wow! Such a comprehensive and fantastic video! Thank you for giving such details as you do the brakes. You leave no stone unturned! You got my full respect for such an excellent job!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very thorough and thoughtful approach to teaching everyone. great job!
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Got it done on a 2012, thanks very, very much for your instruction.
Glad it helped
Best instructional video I’ve ever watched. Well done sir.
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Really thorough explanation and so easy to follow along great video
Appreciate the kind words!🫡
Best video I have seen so far with torque specs. Thank you.
Glad you liked it! 🫡
Great job explaining how to do the work!🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Glad you found it helpful!
Great job, I like the way you speak clearly and explain yourself 👍👍👍👍👍
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excellent and comprehensive video. thanks a lot. good job.
Glad you liked it!🫡
Great video.
Thank you for your attention to detail and great film work. I would love to see you replace the emergency brake.
Thanks, will do!🫡
Fantastic video, very thoughtful and complete, and trustworthy information.
🫡
Do you have a video on how to replace the emergency brake pads on 2016 highlander?
Not yet. Soon though
Great video. Keep an eye on the tires.
That's the plan!
This guy xplain everything very well thanks for this amazing video buddy good job 👍👍👍
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This was a great, well edited video!
Thank you so much!
My 4th time watching this but this time I just wanted to watch the parts where you torqued the calliper bracket and calliper pin bolts. I have watched several videos about this process as I’m going to change the front rotors and pads and the front left calliper as mine has a small piece missing out of the rubber boot for the upper piston so I suspect it may have damaged that piston. I am using Toyota rotors and pads as they are quality parts and I know they will fit. The calliper is a NAPA calliper. On this 4th time watching your video I noticed a couple things. One is that you used your floor jack to lift one side. There is a spot just behind the bottom of the radiator in the center that the owners manual approves as a jacking point. This would speed things up quite a bit for you as you only have to use the jack once to do both sides. There is also a spot listed in the owners manual to lift the entire back end as well. I am also thinking of using some blue thread locker ( medium strength ) on the calliper pin bolts at least ( the ones torqued to 25-26 lb feet ). I won’t do the same on the calliper bracket bolts though as I don’t want it to be any harder to remove those in the future if needed.
Noted. Hope it works out 🫡
Hey mate, can you please let me know if you pressed foot brake on or not for the job you were doing? Thanks!
U didn't. Was not necessary. No air got in the line with method used. Pressing of the brake was done at the end
Torque specs are different than listed. Can some state what the correct specs are and if they are the same for a 2018 Toyota Highlander?
Torque specs and be plus or minus 2 to 4 ft lbs. Really not much difference for a brake job.
Glad to found your video bro. It's very detailed .. thanks for sharing
Glad you liked it
Thank you very much for your help, sir.
I do have one question. After performing the rear brake pad and rotor replacement, I am getting contact between pads and rotor.
I pumped the brakes a few times, drove it around the neighborhood, jacked it up again. When I tried to spin the rear tires, I could feel and hear contact between pads and rotors is still there.
Is this normal and will correct in due time or did I do something wrong?
Thank you again!
Did you replace the shims? It could be the parking brake too. If you confirmed it’s the brake pads and rotors there are several reasons that could be happening. It could be the caliper, master cylinder, the brake pads. Did you use genuine pads or aftermarket?
Excellent vid mate. Clear and precise information. Good work
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You always makes great videos brother. I have a 2016 highlander, one side of the steering wheel lights out can you please make a video and show me how to replace the bulb? Thank you 🙏🙏🙏
Ok will do by next week
@@trackpalmer are you serious? Thank bro 🙏🙏👍👍😄
@@relaxman-tu1tp that job requires the entire steering wheel to be disabled.
@@trackpalmer okay if you make a video I can do it. Because mechanic charge a lot . Thanks again.
What's a steering wheel light? Headlight? Signal light? Fog / driving light? Only the driving lights are kind of hard to change but the high beams are easy although the low beam bulbs are a little awkward in a 2017-2019.
why didnt you have to bleed the breaks for the rear break pad change? i saw that you compressed the piston, but didnt open the bleeder. wouldnt that cause more pressure in the break line?
There was no need to bleed the brake line because it was not open. Opening the brake line create the possibility for air to get in the brake line. Compressing the piston with the brake fluid reservoir bottle open push the fluid back in the reservoir bottle so no air got in the brake line.
Thank you for the response. I will be changing my breaks for the first time on my Highlander tomorrow. Very informative vid. I didn't see you open the reservoir.
@@ovovalxrp7481 I did mention it at minute 10; 30 when doing the front brake but I didn't mention it for the rear brake.
I love he simplicity and straight to the point instructions. t
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Amazing detailed job, thank you sir!
Thanks for watching!
Excellent instructional video. Thank you so much.
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Did you say 77 foot pounds ? For caliper bolts ?
79ft lbs
Thanks, great video!!
Appreciate your comment
Did you use anti-squeal shims on the backing plate of the pads?
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Great video but you didn’t rotate tires or did you ?
Tires were rotated. The car was just out of alignment
clean around piston before compressing? rubber boots need cleaned/lubed? Rear brakes, do you need to remove brake fluid cap when compressing piston?
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I am also having trouble finding wear indicators for a 2008 highlander. The ones the pads come with do not seem to fit. ere you able to find appropriate wear indicators? If you were, where did you get them?
He didn't install wear indicators but I'm pretty sure they come with authentic Toyota brake pads. If you pull the wheels once a year or so to check the caliper slide pins you will have a pretty good idea of the remaining brake pad thickness. If the caliper aren't checked once a year or very 20,000 miles they could seize and cause the pads to wear out very quickly.
Seem Toyota doesn’t sell them and the aftermarket ones are no good. I guess we will have to continuously check our brake pad levels.
If you are cleaning and regressing twice per year as I'd recommend, you'll be keeping an eye on the pads anyway.
No set screw on rotor? I am having a click sound after a hard brake and hard accel. It is the rotor shifting no matter how tight the lugs are.
Might be time to replace the lug studs when replacing your rotors. There might be gaps where the studs sits through the rotor opening. Let me know what you think
9could be many things but if it happened right after the brakes were done it might b the pads which move a bit are making that noise. It doesn't hurt to put a small dim sized dab of grease ( I think that authentic Toyota brake pads com with a small amount of grease as well as a diagram on the box showing where to put the grease on th back of the pads according to what type of pad / caliper you have.
Is it safe to use the German torque method?
Guten tight... 😂
Yes only if it world fall within plus or minus 3 to 5 foot pounds
Sorry at time mark 8:08 what are the torque specs for the caliper bracket bolts. 70 foot lbs? Sorry I couldn't hear it. Thanks !
Caliper bracket 77 flbs
@@trackpalmer EXCELLENT ! Thank you !!! And for the rear I am guessing the same? I am reading things that are all over the board that the back bracket needs to be 110? But I am guessing from your video the front and back can be the same 77 Thanks again !! Awesome video
the 2 bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket are torqued to 76-77 lb ft. and the 2 bolts that screw into the end of the caliper slide pins are torqued to 25-26. The wheel lug nuts are also torqued to 76-77.
Awesome, thorough, detailed video with great special effects. Thanks!
🫡
Time for new tires?
Yep. I got Goodyear Assurance MaxLife
Exellent video thank you.🙏 👍👍👍👍
Welcome 👍
Your a good teacher .thank you
Appreciate it 🫡
Is it cheaper to change your break pads from a mechanic than doing it at the Dealer? I’m just asking because Toyota is charging me over $650 to change both of my break pads in the front.
Small mechanics are cheaper but be careful. Some do not do a good job. Nothing beats doing it yourself. You will be assured it’s done right 🫡
@@trackpalmer True they told me that i needed to change my spark plugs i have 6 so each one cost $18 in total i spent like around $108 i believe & toyota wanted to charge me $750 but my friend did it for me for $300 a bunch of thieves i say. my battery the same thing they wanted to charge me over $400 & that dane battery they installed i saw it for $123.
Love the video .. those tires have had it though :)
Yes they do🫡
totally! right front tire looked like it had a gouge out of the outer side wall 😱
Who else was vibing to background music the whole time 🎶🕺
🙋🏼
Quick way too remove hard to remove rotors is put a piece of wood between rotor and frame, then carefully and slowly turn wheel towards frame. Rotate rotor and repeat if really stuck, DON'T force it to much or you could break something.
Noted
@@trackpalmer most brake rotors also have one or two small threaded holes that a bolt can be turned into to help remove the rotor. A Toyota Tech guy who does videos mentioned that one of the bolts that hold the metal heat shield that covers the exhaust manifold can be removed and fits these / this hole.
@@alexwill3722 that's true. Anti seize works great
On a 2017 Highlander apparently there is a couple threaded holes on the OEM rotors where a caliper Bolt will fit in. You can use this to try to remove a hard to remove rotor. It's suggested to not use the caliper Bolton though because if you strip that you aren't finishing the job until you get another bolt. Apparently the bolt that holes the exhaust manifold heat shield on works and you can drive the vehicle without one of those for a few days if you need to order a new bolt.
where is your 2 jack stands ?
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Wait.. so for 2 front brake rotors are less than $200?
Yep
You can take a12m bolt and it will take the stuck rotor right off put it in the threads on the rotor there’s 2 bolt holes.
Noted
We just going to ignore the massive chunk out of the sideway of the tire
Lol.
I thought the same thing!
Hey genius, how about the shoes?
Video coming soon 🫡
Great video
Thanks for the visit🫡
Great explanation 👌 👍
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Thank you for this!
Happy it helped 🫡
in Canada these parts are like 600....rip
Try and find a discount dealer. That's what I did here in USA
Thanks for posting very informative
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What year hylander?
2014 XLE
Good video! You urgently need to change tires.
I changed the tires the following day. Goodyear Assurance Max Life
In most big cities, you will find independent tire shops that vend used tires. If you don't have $$, used tires are also an option.
Excellent! Thank you
You are welcome!🫡
No shims????????
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This video becomes twice as long if you took the rear rotor off and....showed us how to adjust the parking break.
I will be inspecting the emergency brake soon so I will do that
You need to replace them bumbo clut tire bredren
Noted
Thank you.
I appreciate your view. Subscribe 👍😎
Thank you!
You're welcome!🫡
You forgot to grease the outsides of the new brake pads before sliding the Caliper back into place over them!!
Not necessary. That’s a overkill that many people do
Bravo!
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Yard man 🥊🥊🥊🥊🥊
Up like 7
So you didnt re use the shims for the brake pads? Hmmmm strange but okay buddy.....
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Like a boss
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Don't use carburetor cleaner it has oils to protect rubber parts and can be risky for cleaning break rotars and pads. Just use break cleaner.
You are correct. Brake cleaner is the way to go.
For my 2014 Highlander V6, XLE.... Front & Rear Pads are $75/ea.($150 total) from any Toyota dealership. It is a bad deal because those pads (sold by Toyota) are NOT Toyota Factory Replacement; they are TCMC (Toyota Complete Maintenance Care (of much inferior quality)! Also the front rotors (I made the mistake to buy them) are $112/ea. - they had rust all over and a few nicks. Just absolutely HORRIBLE! We have bought Toyotas (Camry, RAV4, 4RUNNER, and the Highlander) for the last 15 years but after seeing that I am done with Toyota. This is a company that reached its zenith (quality wise) around 2010. Since then, there is only one direction Toyota has decided to go : DOWNHILL
Thanks for sharing your experience! It's important to shop around and compare prices for parts. There are good aftermarket parts fire brakes. Genuine Toyota brake is great
Perfectly explained, great job
Happy to help🫡
Muy buena explicación bien detallada fácil de entender gracias
I don't know much Spanish but I'm happy it helped 👍
I think for a novice DIYer this is still too difficult. Seems too many moving parts. Oil drain and filter change is much easier
I understand. But if you can do oil change or put on a spare... You can do it 💪
not much harder than an oil change but of course it takes longer keep grease off the side of the pads that contact the rotor, us brake clean to remove and oil / grease from the brake disk and most importantly PUMP THE BRAKES BEFORE backing up or pulling forward. You will have no brakes until you do and even mechanics have backed out of thee shop and smashed into a car in the parking lot
Thank you for the help!!🎉
Happy to help!