How to Wire BS 1363 plugs and sockets
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- The humble BS 1363, G-type or 13-amp plug is widely used in my part of the world for single-phase power distribution on stages as well as throughout smaller sound reinforcement systems. Widely recognised as the safest and most robust consumer-level A/C connector in the world, the internal fuse on the plug and the shutter system on the socket go a long way towards preventing incorrect connections which could lead to electric shock.
Knowing how to wire this type of plug and socket is an essential skill for live sound engineers operating in the UK and former British colonial countries where this type of connector is in use. In this video I take you step by step through this process using some professional-grade connectors from British company Permaplug.
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You should not tin the wires in a screw connection.
The reason being that the solder wicks the strands together. Solder will creep in time up the cable and you will find that the cable can work loose in the terminals. If you want to have a solid insert into the terminal is it better to crimp a ferrule onto the wire ends.
An interesting observation! I will look out for this in my older plugs. Thanks for the comment.
yup, solder tinned conductors do not work with screw-on terminals...
It’s not that it creeps up the cable, solder is amorphous under pressure and it gets pushed out of the terminal causing the termination to become loose.
The bit about it creeping up the cable is that it is tricky to tin the ends without the solder also wicking up the cable which causes a stress concentration without any support or relief that can cause the copper to fatigue and break
I agree...It is better to use bare conductors, insert them, screw tight then wiggle a little with the wire to help set the conductors then tighten again.
Solder is bad since it is mostly inelastic, softer, has a thermal dilalation much different from copper/brass and tends to redox with brass over time.
However, if you have already tinned your wire, once in a while, open the connector and re-tighten the screws.
If i bought Pa speaker with only speakon connection, how could i connect to my home receiver to this. Any help would be appreciated.
You would need a speaker cable which is speakon on one end and bare wire/spade lug/banana plug on the other end, whichever fits your AV receiver.
Hello Bruno sir ...... Nice video ..... And very happy to see you again....
PermaPlug is great, but I'll stick to MK lol. Only had 1 fail on me because it had like a Ceramic shell instead of plastic, and I dropped it lol.
It may have been one of the very old Bakelite plugs - after a long time those will shatter like pottery when you drop them 😅
@@GLBProductions They actually still make new ones, haha..
An excellent video Bruno, many thanks. Having lived all my life in the UK I thought I knew it all - but no. The tip about dealing with the strain relief was especially useful.
Ah yes the all-important strain relief. Bring from the UK, you will know that there are many different brands of plug which conform to the BS1363 standard. I have seen several different designs of strain relief - the one in the video though, I believe to be the best as it can be adjusted to virtually any cable thickness.
nice videp 👍👍👍
Hullo, Bruno! In the old days, appliances used to be sold without plugs and everyone was expected to know how to wire plugs. If anything is sold with a two-pin Europlug, I automatically cut it off and put in a fused three-pin.
Good idea! The reason they can get away with that sort of thing in Singapore is usually that the appliance in question is double-insulated (plastic case) and therefore risk of the exterior becoming live is precluded. However there's nothing like having the correct plug for the correct socket!
Great as usual, If you please explain in a separate video, how we can deal with the dropping out of sound in Wireless mics (with receiver) specially when we have more than 3 wireless mic connected with the mixer in a play show. Thank you!
Sure will add it to the to-do list.
Brilliant video, again! I like your idea of soldering the conductor strands. Also, tighten, wait a minute and re-tighten! I have literally dozens and dozens in my touring rig and I’m going to re-make the lot!
Sounds like you have your work cut out for you!
Hy Boss pls can we have a private chart I want you to help me more on sound mixing
Sure, ways to get in touch are in the description of every video.
Nice video. You have taught this Brit a thing or 2! But is there a reason you don’t remove the neutral & earth to wire them up? It makes it a lot easier. But you have to reverse the order. Earth first, then neutral, then live last, or you can’t get the neutral back into it’s hole. I’ve found it’s quicker, plus you need one fewer tool (no needle-nose pliers).
Hi Nigel, glad the video was helpful :) I have tried method in the past, ie remove pins, attached wires, re-insert pins. Unfortunately I find that I can never get a good enough grip on the loose pins to get the torque I need to do the second stage of tightening, so I find it easier to do everything in the body of the plug itself.
GLB Productions Hi Bruno. Thanks for the reply. Sure, clearly it only works for initial positioning. Tightening needs to happen at a later stage, as you say in your video. You may be amused to hear that for 1st stage promotion in the Civil Service of the U.K. Government, one has to do a presentation on any subject, and the one most frequently chosen back in my day was precisely this subject: ‘How to change a plug’. Even so, I still learned from your video. All credit to you. I reckon if you released it with that title it would get a few views in the U.K.!
thanks for sharing with us .. bless you
You're welcome Tej, God Bless you too!