Water Heater Not Heating? Heating Element Testing
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- Опубліковано 25 січ 2017
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Water heater isn’t heating or heats poorly? This video demonstrates how to test a heating element on a water heater. The heating element is a commonly replaced part for a water heater not heating.
Other commonly replaced parts for a water heater that isn’t heating or heating poorly are:
Thermostat
Gas valve
Thermocouple
Pressure switch
For more DIY videos including part replacement and help finding your model visit the repair help section of our website:
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All of the information provided in this part testing video is applicable to the following brands: AO Smith, Bradford White, Bryant, Carrier, Coleman, Honeywell, Lennox, Maytag
RepairClinic has millions of replacement parts for appliances, lawn equipment, power tools, and heating & cooling equipment including washers, dryers, dishwashers, refrigerators, lawn mowers, snowblowers, furnaces, and air conditioners. Our customer care team is available to help by phone or live chat, seven days a week: 1-800-269-2609. We guarantee the fastest shipping possible-all in-stock parts ship the same business day. Return any part for any reason with our generous 365-day return policy.
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Thank you! Very helpful.
Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the video
Presumably If the electric is isolated at the fuse box, you don’t need to disconnect the live and neutral from the terminals?
Question I have a new copper 1700 watt 120 v. I like to keep one and a wrench on standby I Ohmed it out. Shows .08 -09.ohms Is this correct for this type of model and material as listed here? Thanks
My higher side shows a very high ohm reading and brand new low side I installed shows very low ohm.
You showed tester set on DCV instead of Ohm . Could not fool me ! 😆
Mine shows 10 ohms so does this mean that the heating element is NOT faulty or can it still be faulty?
I am looking for a video on replacing kitchen kettle (mellerware cj1000) element
Buy new kettle.
Do you have to take the element completely out of the water heater to check continuity on the bottom element
Not unless you drain the water heater first or you’re gonna have to act fast with all that water coming out
Should you just replace both elements even if only one is bad or wait until the other fails?
Just replace
Hello,
I have tested everything 3x. Everything is testing ok. The issue I am having is suddenly my water got scalding hot. When you use hot water, it overheats and trips the shut off button. What could cause that? Please help. Thank you.
An immerion heater will have a thermostat (set to 60-65°c) and if that has failed it will overheat and cut out by the overheat thermostat (set to 85-95°c). So its most likely a failed thermostat.
Can u put in the wrong size heating element in your electric hot water tank? My thermostat is set to 90 degrees but my water temp is still at 130 degrees and my t and p valve keeps randomly dripping.
T&P is unrelated but you can accidentally put elements in that are too high. 130 is a good temp, you dont want your hot coming out at 90
I have a solar water heater but I rely mostly on the electric water heater since I use a lot of hot water. Lately, I noticed the electric water heater has been heating up the water or very slowly. The heating element is receiving 120 volts on each terminal but it will not read 240 volts after I place the test probes on each terminal. Few minutes later my meter displayed 240 volts but I also noticed the water heater timer switch starts to feel extra warm when it's able to stay on but usually the timer switch would shut off often sometimes within a few minutes. I'm thinking the heating element is going bad or it may have a short. what's your answer to my problem/s?
Wow, I have the exact same problem with my solar water heater. The electric coil stops working; each terminal registers 240V, but with a probe on each terminal it registers zero. Did you ever figure out what your problem was?
If the element has a short-circuit, the protective fuse will have blown. The resistance across the terminals will register a full short-circuit (0.00 ohms) whereas if the element is good, you should see 15-25 ohms, roughly speaking.
That's what I thought, but it does not seem to be the case when dealing with water heater element.
By code isnt that supposed to be a 25 amp breaker because the 4500 watts on the water heater.
I have a 300 litres tank and have a 2.4kw element i'm getting around 220-240 volts and resistance of 20 ohms , but the tank will only ever get warm and not around 70 degrees as set on the thermostat even after being on all day without the water being used ? and it's not the thermostat turning of and there was still power to the element, is this normal ?
@@repairclinic yes element that came with the tank , it's decent just doesn't get the water much higher then 50 in the winter , (the elements on a solar radiant heat roof top system , good for summer)
but I just added in a gas booster now any way 26litres a minute at 60 degrees never had a better shower in my life
My element has continuity but doesnt heat water very well, it just make it warm. Mine is a 19 galon and has and 1500 element. is there need for a higher range element?
Magren Mendez have you tried turning up the thermostat on your water heater?
Eh..
I have no pressure in any of the faucets when only hot is on.
I assume the water will have to be drained first.
🤣
No
yes it will if your replacing the element
Many guys that wanna get to the next job, and not wait for the tank to empty, will very quickly swap the heating elements. I seen a guy do it on youtube and it drained less than 1/4 gallon on the floor before he was able to swap them.
Why would a brand new element register 0 ohms?
It should have no resistance
It don't work at all
If you have to explain what a multi meter is to the person doing it they probably shouldn't be doing this. Please dont promote absolute amatures do DIY. If you have no experience with the tools needed, call a pro.