Well I'm sad to dissapoint any of you but I drove that engine into the ground, did a 13 flat in the 1/4 mile. Not bad for an old big car with a N/A sbc . ended up blowing it up and selling everything but the car itself. Never figured out the knocking and it never got worse or better. The car now has a big block in it
Had the same exact sound about a year ago. Sounded like it was louder near the torque converter. Bought a new one just to find out i had two transmission bolts lose to the bell housing. Lesson learned
piston slap should go away when you unplug that spark plug wire, you have great oil pressure, good water temp, idle RPM is spot on too, and as good of a vacuum as you are going to get with that aggressive cam, just find that knock and take care of it, and you will have a beast of a car, great job otherwise
open up the headers and do a burn out. get them neighbors on high alert .works best after midnight .that want fix your problem but it will be fun has hell
I feel like this could possibly be a worn out timing chain gear. I know people use the ones with a composite material for the teeth to dampen the sound and they're pretty susceptible to premature wear.
Any reply as to the problem,? Asked for help, but provided no resoultion or status. Please help others when you find problems you've asked about or don't ask.
You can literally see how old this video is and that I pinned a comment AT THE TOP of all the comments explaining what I did. Your incompetence isn't my fault
Hi dealing with a ticking on my 69 nova 350. Thought lifters the exhaust but with the stethoscope It seems like it's coming from the mech fuel pump. Any thoughts?
Fuel pump could def be the problem. Has to do with return/anti float springs being weak causing a ticking every time the cam lobe cycles to engage the pump which is constant to keep fuel flowing.
Dude did you find out what's up yet ,mine does it to after new cam ,main bearings,rod bearings,and 4 barrel install,mine goes away if I remove spark wire for 1 cylinder
@@kylelee4682 It sounded like a loose fuel line bumping against the body of the car. Hope it helps. Mechanical fuel pumps are cheap and easy to replace. If in doubt, get an engine stethoscope and you can narrow it down. If you put it against a fuel line and hear the ticking noise, you have found the faulty fuel pump. Easy as that :-)
i realize this is very old and might not get seen but did you ever find out what this noise is ? i just put new cam and lifters in my 71c10 and after the break in this noise started. sounds just like yours.
Mines doing same thing same area replaced every thing but block and heads and it's still doing it replaced plugs twice ..i even replaced torque converter and fly wheel ..and still doing it...a mechanic tells me replace the engine main rod bearing but I'm not 100 % I believe him ..but I'm going to buy a engine rebuild kit new oil pan and heads so the mechanic can't tell me oh it's this part...cause I replace everything on top off motor all ready
BTW Metering rods are too weak You're either out of time, have a converter bolt loose, or main caps loose. Possible rod bearing, I'd put that in when checking main caps
Why do people always say piston slap so stupid if ur vehicle is smoking or has low comp in a certain cylinder it’s rings or valve . Only engines that really do that have forged pistons the old zz4 350 for example but once temps come up it goes away due to expansion.
@@stewoe7157 be honest didn't even watch it that long, just said what it sounded like. It could be anything, without being able to put hands on, it is all just a guess. But after watching it longer I new guess would be a clarence issue, but like I said without hands on your guess is as good as mine.
In my experience having had several rod bearing’s spin or wear from a lack of oil, the sound changes with temperature swings. Best way to tell if it is a rod bearing is to run the engine up to 2000 rpm. That is the sweet spot that makes the noise louder if it’s a rod bearing. And a main bearing has a sound of its own. It’s a lot deeper of a knock. This one is more like a cam bearing or the flex plate to torque converter bolt’s are loose.
you might be a tooth off. if it's new Long block the distributor should be straight on (connectors facing you) maybe little advance.also get a proform carb 750.
Well I'm sad to dissapoint any of you but I drove that engine into the ground, did a 13 flat in the 1/4 mile. Not bad for an old big car with a N/A sbc . ended up blowing it up and selling everything but the car itself. Never figured out the knocking and it never got worse or better. The car now has a big block in it
What caused the motor to let go??
I have this same sound and I want to preserve the motor as long as I can
I have a video on my Chanel if you would like to hear for yourself
Had the same exact sound about a year ago. Sounded like it was louder near the torque converter. Bought a new one just to find out i had two transmission bolts lose to the bell housing. Lesson learned
Which bolts were loose?
Wrong size bearings in the bottom end perhaps...
Need to adjust valves and tighten flex plate and bell housing bolts.
Have same problem, just tinking on oil pump of transmisión, replace one time and thats it, but after 4 months, noise comes again😢
Put it in Drive and hold the brake and apply a little gas. If the knock goes away its the flywheel and flywheel bolt related.
What if the it’s a small thud only in gear?
Hey so my 350 is doing that and when I hit the gas the noise goes away
@RockstarMafiaa Same here!!! Mine does it only idling and when the temperature gets up to exactly 180 degrees.
check flywheel to torque converter
8 year old video but for others, cracked flex plates can make that sort of noise, and harmonic balancer.
Looks like this noise in a 73-77 chevelle? I have the same noise in mine right now 😢
Mine is doing the same thing I have a big cam in my 383 stroker build I was told it was a wrist pin it never gets louder just annoying
Did you ever find the problem?
Bro the distributor is cockeyed.check the lid for ware.when you installed the trany somthing moved causing stress on distributor cap and rotor.
Bad risk pin on the piston or a bad bearing on the bottom end...
Is thier a part 2 to this yet??
What is that sound? My 383 does that?? Any one please!!!!!
1973 Chevelle
Broken fly wheel ... around the bolts watch take it out ..weird sound... thought it was my engine to
I tried that. I bought a whole new flywheel too.
piston slap should go away when you unplug that spark plug wire, you have great oil pressure, good water temp, idle RPM is spot on too, and as good of a vacuum as you are going to get with that aggressive cam, just find that knock and take care of it, and you will have a beast of a car, great job otherwise
open up the headers and do a burn out. get them neighbors on high alert .works best after midnight .that want fix your problem but it will be fun has hell
I feel like this could possibly be a worn out timing chain gear. I know people use the ones with a composite material for the teeth to dampen the sound and they're pretty susceptible to premature wear.
Loose torque converter to flex plate bolts will make this sound. Badly on startup.
Sounds like the bearings on the crankshaft. Just have to figure out which tierod the bearing is spinning on.
Tie rods are part of suspension
@@asderocher😂😂😂🤦🏽♂️
sounds like rod knock to me
Hey man at least you have vacuum
lifters?
Any reply as to the problem,? Asked for help, but provided no resoultion or status. Please help others when you find problems you've asked about or don't ask.
You can literally see how old this video is and that I pinned a comment AT THE TOP of all the comments explaining what I did. Your incompetence isn't my fault
Hi dealing with a ticking on my 69 nova 350. Thought lifters the exhaust but with the stethoscope It seems like it's coming from the mech fuel pump. Any thoughts?
Fuel pump could def be the problem. Has to do with return/anti float springs being weak causing a ticking every time the cam lobe cycles to engage the pump which is constant to keep fuel flowing.
Dude did you find out what's up yet ,mine does it to after new cam ,main bearings,rod bearings,and 4 barrel install,mine goes away if I remove spark wire for 1 cylinder
What's the verdict?
You ever fix the issue?
Tentioner on timing
Mine does the same shit sounds like its by the timing chain or bottom end, runs good dont hear anything while driving
Kevin i know this was two years ago but did you figure that out
you ever figure it out?? my buick does this
Mine did the same. Replaced the mechanical fuel pump. Problem solved.
Hi I'm trying to find a ticking on my 69 nova 350 I think it the mech fuel pump. What did urs sound like?
@@kylelee4682 It sounded like a loose fuel line bumping against the body of the car. Hope it helps. Mechanical fuel pumps are cheap and easy to replace. If in doubt, get an engine stethoscope and you can narrow it down. If you put it against a fuel line and hear the ticking noise, you have found the faulty fuel pump. Easy as that :-)
Yeah I tracked it to the fuel pump with the stethoscope never used one b4 so I wanted a second opinion thank you for the help 👍
Mine does the same thing not that loud but after it warms up for a minute quiets down either I'll drive it until it stops and put a built 350 in it
End up knowing what it was before I replace my engine ?
i realize this is very old and might not get seen but did you ever find out what this noise is ? i just put new cam and lifters in my 71c10 and after the break in this noise started. sounds just like yours.
Same here just built the motor doing the same thing
Mines doing same thing same area replaced every thing but block and heads and it's still doing it replaced plugs twice ..i even replaced torque converter and fly wheel ..and still doing it...a mechanic tells me replace the engine main rod bearing but I'm not 100 % I believe him ..but I'm going to buy a engine rebuild kit new oil pan and heads so the mechanic can't tell me oh it's this part...cause I replace everything on top off motor all ready
James Bailey did you ever fix your issue with the main bearing?
Sounds like a cracked flywheel? I had that happen before too! Sounds exactly like this!
Stuck lifters can sound like that too if you changed them recently that opens up the possibility.
Ever find out what it was
nme4u2nv nope. But I drag raced that thing every day hard for about 2 years before I cracked cyl. 5 lol
That interior is pretty crazy 😂
Man you should've just put a quart of lucas in the next oil change and let er fly
I did. Read my pinned comment lol
BTW
Metering rods are too weak
You're either out of time, have a converter bolt loose, or main caps loose. Possible rod bearing, I'd put that in when checking main caps
possibly too much lift on the cam causing vacuum to drop which causes timing to change and/or a vacuum leak
Possibly a Main bearing knock
Why do people always say piston slap so stupid if ur vehicle is smoking or has low comp in a certain cylinder it’s rings or valve . Only engines that really do that have forged pistons the old zz4 350 for example but once temps come up it goes away due to expansion.
I love 73 Malibu's
Spark knock !
It’s a simple rod knock folks!
Yep spun bearing
@@jamessanborn293 Oh yeah, and you just ignore the fact that he has 40 psi of oil pressure.
@@stewoe7157 be honest didn't even watch it that long, just said what it sounded like. It could be anything, without being able to put hands on, it is all just a guess. But after watching it longer I new guess would be a clarence issue, but like I said without hands on your guess is as good as mine.
In my experience having had several rod bearing’s spin or wear from a lack of oil, the sound changes with temperature swings. Best way to tell if it is a rod bearing is to run the engine up to 2000 rpm. That is the sweet spot that makes the noise louder if it’s a rod bearing. And a main bearing has a sound of its own. It’s a lot deeper of a knock. This one is more like a cam bearing or the flex plate to torque converter bolt’s are loose.
Nice lopey cam you got there
It the timing it's too advanced
you might be a tooth off. if it's new Long block the distributor should be straight on (connectors facing you) maybe little advance.also get a proform carb 750.
you got way too big of a camshaft
Bad lifter.