Full Kicker $1500. System Kisload4 $60. Into factory HU , Kicker Key 200.4 $280. Into Kicker KS 6.5 components $250. Key 500.1 $280. Into a 10 inch L7T 2 ohm down firing preloaded sub box $330. Stinger 6.5 fast rings $25. Kicker 4gauge dual amp kit $135. = 1320. Then $180 on sound dampening coming to total of $1500. 😊
I've installed and tested them and I would like to say for clear quality sound the Polk DB+ Marine speakers for $100 pair 6.5 inch Coaxials have the some of the best spec numbers of speakers any price and perform absolutely flawlessly. You will not be disappointed with their sound quality. In fact, I was impressed (as have been customers) exceeding my expectations on the 1st install. Being Marine rated you know they are durable. And the Component version around $150 pair.
My grand total for : 2x Recoil DI1200.4 amps, 1x Recoil REA600.4 amp, Recoil RD65 Component Set (mids/tweeters), CDT Audio Unity 8.0s (midrange in A pillars), Recoil RAX65 Rose Gold Coaxials in read doors, Audio Control LC7i LOC, Expert air8 DSP, 2x Recoil Echo Pro 10PWD2 subs, JY Power Lithium Capacitor and all the cables, wires, connectors came out to about $1,470 total for the entire truck.
Rockford Fosgate makes some of the lowest distortion, cleanest sounding car audio equipment of the market, with their subs having plenty of punch (or more so) for90% of the people out there. Their eqpt. made in Korea not China. And certainly, the Morel speakers are quite good (just a little pricey). And Kickers integrated amp with DSP is definitely hard to beat for the price. Just a little underpowered in my book, but a good amp. Thumbs up - a solid system!
As always thanks for the video! And everybody, if want a DSP for your system make sure to get an amp with an integrated DSP. Stand alone DSP in car audio is an oxymoron and defeats the purpose using RCA connections. Something cheaper but a fantastic performing unit is the Clarion 360 active crossover unit. Boosting your pre amp signals from your head unit into your amps will add to sound quality (headroom) and better amp performance (running cooler).
Interesting video. I have a two thirds Kicker based system in my Mercedes C class estate at about £1400 and that includes professional installation but no sound dampening. I have the Kicker Key 200.4 , Ground Zero 100MB (4.5 inch) in the front doors with separate tweeters and a Kicker Hideaway HS10 sub under the front passenger seat. The system only really came together when I added the compact sub as the final piece. A good sub (even if it's a compact one) is essential imho even if you're not a bass head. I have pretty decent rounded sound now for just about all genres of music except maybe window rattling hiphop or metal. The DSP in the Kicker Key is pretty amazing but I should point out that sound is obviously optimised for the driver only, passengers won't get that sweet spot with the centre imaging. All in all though, I'm very happy with my new system and I'm sure this one is also excellent but I don't think you need to go as high powered or physically large as the subwoofer mentioned in this video.
Man, I’m doing my single cab truck install within a month. I wanted to get the Key 200 and 500 so, so bad but I’ve spent an astronomical amount of straight up cash these last 3 weeks. Already got KS 4x6’s for the rear , Freeair 6.5’s and ks tweets up front and Comp VT10’s for the lows. I wanted matching amps so I could consider it a full Kicker install. With Christmas coming I’m just going with the Slash 500/1 and 300/4 for amps on an Eclipse AVN62 with optical link to a matching DSP. Running the rear 4x6’s off of the head unit. Hopefully I’ll get a decent SQ.
@@HifiVega I don’t know why I’m stressing it because it’s only a work truck but I’m still hoping Rob. It’s only 4 active channels up front. And the VT’s. Nothing crazy.
I think you did good. I think for me I’m a little tight on space I like the kicker 8”-10” wedge box with passive radiator and kicker 400.1 to run it your front stage sounds good.
I did a jp95, audison apk165, Dayton mini DSP, image dynamics idq10, earthquake passive radiator in .75 cu sealed enclosure, nvx wiring kit came out to almost 1400 in my es350, no sound deadening required. Audison tweets are little bright for me but the DSP helped with that after tuning
I'm running kicker snowman pods and hertz deici components up front. Kenwood dsp and it sounds good but I've really been contemplating upgrading to those Morels.
Hardest hitting songs for your system: Extra Terra - "Blowin' Smoke" remix. 2nd : Pendulum - "Witchcraft" Rob Swire D&B remix. Honorable mention: Dirty Phonics - "Burbank Nights". Now crank that shit up! enjoy!
My only gripe, taxes. I don't recall seeing taxes included. @9%, that's another $135 putting your budget at $1640. That being the case, I would change out the brand of Sound deadening. Regardless, good video.
Front stage and panel dampening will be the same, but we have slightly different priorities (ie: I don't need modern day car integration at all, have no rear speakers what so ever) and applications (old compact pickup) I'm sure. So we begin at the deck, to which for being on a tight budget I'd go with a Pioneer AVH-221EX - cheep cheerful, and should (!) have relativity clean RCA outputs. This will be plumbed to an Alpine S2-A36F amp. The Alpine gets plumbed up in stereo to the Morel Maximo's, while the other two outputs get bridged for a single Rockford R2S-1X10 (prob slightly under powered here, but what can one do)... I might be over the $1500 budget though (but I had to add a deck).
@@HifiVegaMaybe - just realized that's wired as a 2 ohm sub..... While I'm sure the Alpine amp could handle it, it's not rated for 2 ohm loads bridged - so probably be a better idea to do a rethink. Hmm, had a look at the Rockford product page - a P3S-1x10 costs more... But it could need to be rewired for 4 ohms which would solve the issue - but for sure that would be over budget.... So instead of Rockford, I'd prob pick a loaded Kicker Solo-Baric L7T (specifically the 46TL7T104). Still be a bit under powered, but fits the bill and nets one a little more cone area for deeper bass.
I have morel maximus and melorel maximo 6.5s in my front and rear doors and custom console with vibe kevlar 6.5 and 5.25 component sets and audio legion 3.5s in the rear roof of my tahoe kenwood 600/6 dsp amp and a morel 400.4 kenwood excelon kdcx998 it has amazing sq and and have two zv5 15s on a aak7500.1 about the change it out with a crescendo encore 12k i dont think its loud but everyone does but i consider it a sql setup and i cant lie i have way over 1500 in my setup though i like bass but i also like clean clear music
Stinger off road has had a decent sale on amp kits, sound dampening, and fast rings since before halloween if you’re looking to stretch those dollars a little more.
Thanks for the content video audio commentary My simple advice Dont be a fan boy Set a budget Check online regularly for close outs, buy outs, blemishes, NOS, last yrs models Buy it when you see great deals Dont fall for fake MSRP pricing, introductory pricing, year round 15% off sale...cough cough D4S Big Jeff, Skar...
I'm trying to decide on a 12-inch loaded subwoofer package (not powered) under $200. I want something that sounds good for all kinds of music and not boomy, so probably sealed. What do you recommend? Also, I only have a 300 watt amp. Thanks.
Hey Robert. I put in the kicker key and I couldn't be happier! I mated it with Focal ISU in the front. Now comes the next thing. I am currently running a JBL Nano subwoofer. The reason is because I have a Tacoma so I have little space. It does the trick for now. It's not loud but it's pretty clean. I tied it all together with an Audio control LC2i Pro. So far so great! If I could replace one thing, what sub could I fit to really round out my budget SQ?
If on a budget I’d consider the RF loaded powered enclosures because imo they offer significant value. If you want to up the ante a bit morel offers some very nice shallow subs
For a complete powered sub box setup, I'd stick with Rockford Fosgate and get the 8 " powered 300W enclosure. It's under $300. Rockford Fosgate makes some of the lowest distortion stereo eqpt. out there. If you are looking at putting together a box I'd look at a Sevard RAP series sub. I think they are the best sub for the money at just over $100. You're getting a 90 oz. magnet in the 8 inch and great spec numbers too (even the 8 inch hits in the low 20 Hz range). And the Sevard makes a 6.5 inch sub that performs really well too. But they Might be a little too deep/big for your application, but are great subs. (That's what she said. lol) Best budget sub is the Skar IX Series, (an 8 inch is around $40) their entry level sub is probably the best entry level sub on the market right now. 5 out of 5 out of 500+ reviews. And should be able to fit your application. It's not a big sub but performs really well and doesn't need a bunch of power. If any sub is a little too deep or long, think about adding another mounting ring (double up) on the box as you want to leave some space between the bottom of the driver and the box for better performance. If you must have a shallow sub and also priced between Skar and Sevard and a really good performing sub is Harmony Rhythm series shallow subs. Around $80. It's put together really well and my favorite shallow sub due to its unique design and performance. For sub amps Stinger has come out recently with some excellent sounding and performing sub amps, and for the price the best in the market. Those are what I think are the best "budget" brands you can trust to perform as they say or better. So good luck on finding quality SQ equipment for what ya can afford, and go turn that shit up!
Nice video, nice audio system gear. But like most titles on the media are over hyped or misinformed(to get your attention). 1- It’s an upgrade NOT a SQ system. A SQ or SLP is an audio competition that you try to win. That is like us running 🏃🏾♂️ 100m against a Olympic gold medalist, we don’t qualified. 2- Your total price doesn’t include sales & shipping price. I just bought a lightweight (under a 1lb) tweeters mounting bracket costing me $13.50, but the shipping cost was $6.50 through the standard U.S Postal. 3- Most car/truck has an alternator between roughly 100 to 145 amps, using about 60-70% on the function of the vehicle. If you putting additional 70amps to the electrical system, are bordered line or hitting your limit. That could cause voltage issues, like dimming headlights, devices working optimally or battery charging problems, if you are playing your audio system close to upper 80% of power. So let be honest.🤔
I appreciate the feedback, but I’d like to respectfully disagree on a few points. 1. A sound quality system does not only include competition vehicles. In my video I am going for people who want a SQ focused system not just a heavy bass system. 2. I did not include tax because that’s an unfortunate fact of life and if you can’t afford the tax on a $1500 system you probably shouldn’t being spending that can of money on a system in the first place. As far as the shipping goes if you use the links in the description Amazon changes no shipping on orders over $35 3. In day to day listening you would draw anywhere from 30-40amps. The max amperage you should draw would be 70 amps for short periods of time and most factory electrical systems can handle that nowadays.
Awesome video! Was there supposed to be a rear fill speaker? You did suggest a 4 channel amp. Maybe a set of size appropriate coaxials? Those can be pretty inexpensive. That is what I did in my Tacoma. Focal front stage and alpine type E coaxials for rear. Great video though. I love stuff like this.
One major change in my opinion is, you should have suggested to go with a smaller 2inch midrange or if space permits a 3 inch mid range like Steg MS30 should be used in place of a tweeter which cannot play below 2000Hz in best case. any good 6.5 inch mid bass can play below 200Hz. This would help to lift the sound stage, hear clean vocals and reduce pretty shitty dips/cancellations above 200Hz.
Are you ready for an old mans opinion ? In the 90's and even now , if you didn't build your own sub box , you didnt do it right. That was the best part..lol
Not kicker? I wish jbl was still relevant. I'd have went after ported enclosure instead, but I have the 500p it's way better than most. It sounds almost custom in a smaller hatch.
Full Kicker $1500. System
Kisload4 $60. Into factory HU , Kicker Key 200.4 $280. Into Kicker KS 6.5 components $250. Key 500.1 $280. Into a 10 inch L7T 2 ohm down firing preloaded sub box $330. Stinger 6.5 fast rings $25. Kicker 4gauge dual amp kit $135. = 1320. Then $180 on sound dampening coming to total of $1500.
😊
I've installed and tested them and I would like to say for clear quality sound the Polk DB+ Marine speakers for $100 pair 6.5 inch Coaxials have the some of the best spec numbers of speakers any price and perform absolutely flawlessly. You will not be disappointed with their sound quality. In fact, I was impressed (as have been customers) exceeding my expectations on the 1st install. Being Marine rated you know they are durable. And the Component version around $150 pair.
My grand total for : 2x Recoil DI1200.4 amps, 1x Recoil REA600.4 amp, Recoil RD65 Component Set (mids/tweeters), CDT Audio Unity 8.0s (midrange in A pillars), Recoil RAX65 Rose Gold Coaxials in read doors, Audio Control LC7i LOC, Expert air8 DSP, 2x Recoil Echo Pro 10PWD2 subs, JY Power Lithium Capacitor and all the cables, wires, connectors came out to about $1,470 total for the entire truck.
That’s a pretty extensive set up for under $1500! Nice job
How is the sq on those RD65s? I have a couple of sets but haven't had time to install them yet.
@@chickenpimp5190 love them so far. I posted a complete sound demo of them a few days ago.
@@TheGodofSEO Nice! I'm going to check it out when I get a chance.
This setup could vary widely depending on the stock head unit. Aftermarket head units can make a world of difference on older vehicles.
Me I pick Polk Audio full tilt from mids and highs to amp to one of my fav SQ sub The Momo series Old school SQ setup
Rockford Fosgate makes some of the lowest distortion, cleanest sounding car audio equipment of the market, with their subs having plenty of punch (or more so) for90% of the people out there. Their eqpt. made in Korea not China. And certainly, the Morel speakers are quite good (just a little pricey). And Kickers integrated amp with DSP is definitely hard to beat for the price. Just a little underpowered in my book, but a good amp. Thumbs up - a solid system!
As always thanks for the video! And everybody, if want a DSP for your system make sure to get an amp with an integrated DSP. Stand alone DSP in car audio is an oxymoron and defeats the purpose using RCA connections. Something cheaper but a fantastic performing unit is the Clarion 360 active crossover unit. Boosting your pre amp signals from your head unit into your amps will add to sound quality (headroom) and better amp performance (running cooler).
ALWAYS Excellent content & very informative. Great Job
Appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment!
Interesting video. I have a two thirds Kicker based system in my Mercedes C class estate at about £1400 and that includes professional installation but no sound dampening. I have the Kicker Key 200.4 , Ground Zero 100MB (4.5 inch) in the front doors with separate tweeters and a Kicker Hideaway HS10 sub under the front passenger seat. The system only really came together when I added the compact sub as the final piece. A good sub (even if it's a compact one) is essential imho even if you're not a bass head. I have pretty decent rounded sound now for just about all genres of music except maybe window rattling hiphop or metal. The DSP in the Kicker Key is pretty amazing but I should point out that sound is obviously optimised for the driver only, passengers won't get that sweet spot with the centre imaging. All in all though, I'm very happy with my new system and I'm sure this one is also excellent but I don't think you need to go as high powered or physically large as the subwoofer mentioned in this video.
A 1500$ ground pounder video would be awesome!
I’ll definitely need to do that one
The fronts would be the CT Sounds Meso 3way in the doors for me.
These CAN NOT be beat in value per dollar...
Affiliate links for products mentioned in the video :
Kicker Key 200.4
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Morel Maximo Ultra 602
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Rockford Fosgate P500-12
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Kicker 4ga dual amp kit
amzn.to/49USrD9
Sound skins ss pro kit
amzn.to/47AGuAk
Sound skins slim
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Sound skins speaker kit
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Man, I’m doing my single cab truck install within a month. I wanted to get the Key 200 and 500 so, so bad but I’ve spent an astronomical amount of straight up cash these last 3 weeks. Already got KS 4x6’s for the rear , Freeair 6.5’s and ks tweets up front and Comp VT10’s for the lows. I wanted matching amps so I could consider it a full Kicker install. With Christmas coming I’m just going with the Slash 500/1 and 300/4 for amps on an Eclipse AVN62 with optical link to a matching DSP. Running the rear 4x6’s off of the head unit. Hopefully I’ll get a decent SQ.
It’s always budget friendly to run equipment you already own! That set up should sound great
@@HifiVega I don’t know why I’m stressing it because it’s only a work truck but I’m still hoping Rob. It’s only 4 active channels up front. And the VT’s. Nothing crazy.
Aw I'm in the $6 no shout out 😔 no worries Rob just giving you a hard time 😆
My bad Uncle Bobby B I’ll get that Patreon updated this weekend and make sure it’s right on the next video
You never realize everything that goes into a system till you break it down 👊🏼
For sure
Pretty solid list!
I thought so!
SQ FTW
HAPPY BIRTHDAY BROTHER BABA!
Thank You Ashy! 👊🏽
I think you did good. I think for me I’m a little tight on space I like the kicker 8”-10” wedge box with passive radiator and kicker 400.1 to run it your front stage sounds good.
I did a jp95, audison apk165, Dayton mini DSP, image dynamics idq10, earthquake passive radiator in .75 cu sealed enclosure, nvx wiring kit came out to almost 1400 in my es350, no sound deadening required. Audison tweets are little bright for me but the DSP helped with that after tuning
Solid set up
I’m going to try the kicker key in my sons car, that’s a great deal for what you get
I'm running kicker snowman pods and hertz deici components up front. Kenwood dsp and it sounds good but I've really been contemplating upgrading to those Morels.
They’re a great set. I run the snowmen myself and have been pretty happy with them
Hybrid audio technology mirus hybrid components are phenomenal 250 for the pair and they offer full price towards trade up down the road
Nice system, but id add a HU and go over a little! Also, i believe the rf subs are all ported? Dean just did a similar thing in a tacoma.
Hardest hitting songs for your system: Extra Terra - "Blowin' Smoke" remix. 2nd : Pendulum - "Witchcraft" Rob Swire D&B remix. Honorable mention: Dirty Phonics - "Burbank Nights". Now crank that shit up! enjoy!
Sound dampening for the win
My only gripe, taxes. I don't recall seeing taxes included. @9%, that's another $135 putting your budget at $1640.
That being the case, I would change out the brand of Sound deadening.
Regardless, good video.
My biggest gripe in life since I’ve been an adult has been taxes 😂 so I feel ya
@@HifiVega 🤣
Front stage and panel dampening will be the same, but we have slightly different priorities (ie: I don't need modern day car integration at all, have no rear speakers what so ever) and applications (old compact pickup) I'm sure. So we begin at the deck, to which for being on a tight budget I'd go with a Pioneer AVH-221EX - cheep cheerful, and should (!) have relativity clean RCA outputs. This will be plumbed to an Alpine S2-A36F amp. The Alpine gets plumbed up in stereo to the Morel Maximo's, while the other two outputs get bridged for a single Rockford R2S-1X10 (prob slightly under powered here, but what can one do)... I might be over the $1500 budget though (but I had to add a deck).
That would be a solid set up!
@@HifiVegaMaybe - just realized that's wired as a 2 ohm sub..... While I'm sure the Alpine amp could handle it, it's not rated for 2 ohm loads bridged - so probably be a better idea to do a rethink. Hmm, had a look at the Rockford product page - a P3S-1x10 costs more... But it could need to be rewired for 4 ohms which would solve the issue - but for sure that would be over budget.... So instead of Rockford, I'd prob pick a loaded Kicker Solo-Baric L7T (specifically the 46TL7T104). Still be a bit under powered, but fits the bill and nets one a little more cone area for deeper bass.
I have morel maximus and melorel maximo 6.5s in my front and rear doors and custom console with vibe kevlar 6.5 and 5.25 component sets and audio legion 3.5s in the rear roof of my tahoe kenwood 600/6 dsp amp and a morel 400.4 kenwood excelon kdcx998 it has amazing sq and and have two zv5 15s on a aak7500.1 about the change it out with a crescendo encore 12k i dont think its loud but everyone does but i consider it a sql setup and i cant lie i have way over 1500 in my setup though i like bass but i also like clean clear music
Stinger off road has had a decent sale on amp kits, sound dampening, and fast rings since before halloween if you’re looking to stretch those dollars a little more.
They look like decent amps
@@HifiVegathe wire kits are a great price. eBay isn’t much cheaper, but getting warranty from Stinger 👍🏼
Thanks for the content video audio commentary
My simple advice
Dont be a fan boy
Set a budget
Check online regularly for close outs, buy outs, blemishes, NOS,
last yrs models
Buy it when you see great deals
Dont fall for fake MSRP pricing,
introductory pricing, year round 15% off sale...cough cough D4S
Big Jeff, Skar...
I'm trying to decide on a 12-inch loaded subwoofer package (not powered) under $200. I want something that sounds good for all kinds of music and not boomy, so probably sealed. What do you recommend? Also, I only have a 300 watt amp. Thanks.
Hey Robert. I put in the kicker key and I couldn't be happier! I mated it with Focal ISU in the front. Now comes the next thing. I am currently running a JBL Nano subwoofer. The reason is because I have a Tacoma so I have little space. It does the trick for now. It's not loud but it's pretty clean. I tied it all together with an Audio control LC2i Pro. So far so great! If I could replace one thing, what sub could I fit to really round out my budget SQ?
If on a budget I’d consider the RF loaded powered enclosures because imo they offer significant value. If you want to up the ante a bit morel offers some very nice shallow subs
For a complete powered sub box setup, I'd stick with Rockford Fosgate and get the 8 " powered 300W enclosure. It's under $300. Rockford Fosgate makes some of the lowest distortion stereo eqpt. out there. If you are looking at putting together a box I'd look at a Sevard RAP series sub. I think they are the best sub for the money at just over $100. You're getting a 90 oz. magnet in the 8 inch and great spec numbers too (even the 8 inch hits in the low 20 Hz range). And the Sevard makes a 6.5 inch sub that performs really well too. But they Might be a little too deep/big for your application, but are great subs. (That's what she said. lol) Best budget sub is the Skar IX Series, (an 8 inch is around $40) their entry level sub is probably the best entry level sub on the market right now. 5 out of 5 out of 500+ reviews. And should be able to fit your application. It's not a big sub but performs really well and doesn't need a bunch of power. If any sub is a little too deep or long, think about adding another mounting ring (double up) on the box as you want to leave some space between the bottom of the driver and the box for better performance. If you must have a shallow sub and also priced between Skar and Sevard and a really good performing sub is Harmony Rhythm series shallow subs. Around $80. It's put together really well and my favorite shallow sub due to its unique design and performance. For sub amps Stinger has come out recently with some excellent sounding and performing sub amps, and for the price the best in the market. Those are what I think are the best "budget" brands you can trust to perform as they say or better. So good luck on finding quality SQ equipment for what ya can afford, and go turn that shit up!
Nice video, nice audio system gear. But like most titles on the media are over hyped or misinformed(to get your attention).
1- It’s an upgrade NOT a SQ system. A SQ or SLP is an audio competition that you try to win. That is like us running 🏃🏾♂️ 100m against a Olympic gold medalist, we don’t qualified.
2- Your total price doesn’t include sales & shipping price. I just bought a lightweight (under a 1lb) tweeters mounting bracket costing me $13.50, but the shipping cost was $6.50 through the standard U.S Postal.
3- Most car/truck has an alternator between roughly 100 to 145 amps, using about 60-70% on the function of the vehicle. If you putting additional 70amps to the electrical system, are bordered line or hitting your limit. That could cause voltage issues, like dimming headlights, devices working optimally or battery charging problems, if you are playing your audio system close to upper 80% of power.
So let be honest.🤔
I appreciate the feedback, but I’d like to respectfully disagree on a few points.
1. A sound quality system does not only include competition vehicles. In my video I am going for people who want a SQ focused system not just a heavy bass system.
2. I did not include tax because that’s an unfortunate fact of life and if you can’t afford the tax on a $1500 system you probably shouldn’t being spending that can of money on a system in the first place. As far as the shipping goes if you use the links in the description Amazon changes no shipping on orders over $35
3. In day to day listening you would draw anywhere from 30-40amps. The max amperage you should draw would be 70 amps for short periods of time and most factory electrical systems can handle that nowadays.
Nice
Just go one level up on the morels. You won't be disappointed.
Awesome video! Was there supposed to be a rear fill speaker? You did suggest a 4 channel amp. Maybe a set of size appropriate coaxials? Those can be pretty inexpensive. That is what I did in my Tacoma. Focal front stage and alpine type E coaxials for rear. Great video though. I love stuff like this.
This set up would be ran active as is. You could run the set up with coax, but it really shines in active mode imo.
The kicker key 200.4 has Bi-amp mode and is specifically for powering a front stage, such as a component set
I would go with a MATCH5.4 instead of the Key, this will give you full DSP, not just an auto tune.
Solid pick
What about the head unit?
That’s not an option for under $1500 in most modern vehicles so they set up is based on da Tory integration
What would you do if you wanted rear fill? Power off stock head unit to a set of coaxial???Maximos?
You could do that for sure. If you do I make fade to the front to not have the rear fill mess with your front imaging
One major change in my opinion is, you should have suggested to go with a smaller 2inch midrange or if space permits a 3 inch mid range like Steg MS30 should be used in place of a tweeter which cannot play below 2000Hz in best case. any good 6.5 inch mid bass can play below 200Hz. This would help to lift the sound stage, hear clean vocals and reduce pretty shitty dips/cancellations above 200Hz.
Are you giving up on these kinda videos? What about the install type you done before?
I’ve just run out of cars to do new installs in, but I do love doing those type of video and will do more in the future.
Head unit? What ever that is in the car?
Oh.. rca cable??
This is set up for factory integration so you’d use line level
When I was a kid, I would look at the bra section in the Sears or jc Penney catalog.
😂
Are you ready for an old mans opinion ?
In the 90's and even now , if you didn't build your own sub box , you didnt do it right. That was the best part..lol
There wasn’t a lot of good prefab options back in the day for sure. It was basically Q-Logic and Obcon
@@HifiVega you always had the reliable flee market band passes ect..lol
For me, rockford fostgate subwoofers are not SQ, they are just loud, you should have put jbl instead of rockford fosgate'
Not kicker? I wish jbl was still relevant. I'd have went after ported enclosure instead, but I have the 500p it's way better than most. It sounds almost custom in a smaller hatch.
@@wes9324 JBL sounds cleaner than kicker'
@@markfrederick5012 won't argue that, but that punch!
@@wes9324 yeah, it punch because the bass is not clean 😆
@markfrederick5012 no doubt, love the smell of burning coil in the morning
I would not pay $500 for that junk prefab RF box.
This is more like $2k after taxes and shipping fees
I didn’t include tax because that’s a fact of life unfortunately and if you use the links I provided you will get free shipping from Amazon.
What is a good budget sq amp 100x4
This kenwood is a really nice one 75x4@4 ohm and 100x4@2ohm
amzn.to/47YqsAH
My Recoil A/B REA600.4 is flawless for mids and highs. I posted a sound demo of it a few days ago.
That sub is too weak for my taste, and the kicker amp/DSP does not have enough power.
Well I wonder how much he made from kicker. 50x4. SQ I go ab There are so many better cheaper amps with a bit better power with lower thd%