hey! thats me on the first wave in the video, on the orange board. thanks for capturing. I was riding a 7'2 and it felt like a toothpick. I was going so fast my fins were humming. the board was so locked in I couldn't break the rail free to do a carve, just lock and load! I got washed all the way down and had to climb out on the freeway wall and hike back over a mile to the parking lot. I would say yes, biggest Rincon ever. at least for me! thank you
I lived at Rincon ( 3rd property south of the river mouth ) and I’ve seen it twice as big! That’s when I would head down to Little Rincon and surf… 🏄🏼♂️
There's no way this was the biggest ever ~ Ask David Nuuhiva ~ He was there in 1969 when at high tide it was washing over the coast highway and wrecked a motorhome parked on the ocean side edge. All the cars there had to move to the far side. Remember this was when you could still do that ~ I paddled out in a huge lull from the highway and my friends all yelled at me to change direction, to paddle for the oil piers . I barely made it out and we all paddled for the oil piers to get safe. The sets were just gigantic. It all took me by surprise. There were only three guys out when I got out there and it was a constant scratch to get further outside. It was a grey day and a guy went through the bottom of his board dropping in. Probably a hairline crack. I got 3 waves and the tide was high. Nuuhiva went out later same day as I read in the Surer Mag. months later. My waves were in the 15 foot range and the sets were much bigger. My friends on shore weren't having it. NO WAY I could paddle back out after loosing my board in the cove on my last wave ~ NO LEASHES THEN ! I was just 18. They said some sets were 30 foot then.
Yes this is a big relatively clean day, quite beautiful in fact. But, biggest day ever? not even close. I’ve personally surfed at least 6 bigger days, and the 1969 swell was by far the biggest I’ve been out on, the reef outside indicator was breaking 300 yards off the point, at least 25 foot faces, and I’ll admit one of my most memorable spectacular wipeouts ever was out there. I ended up surfing the cove and had a spectacular day. And I’m aware of another 6 days when I was unable to go out due to work or other causes, and I’m sure there were lots more, so biggest? NO!
Ist of all I'm 68 yrs old and my surfing mentor from 66 told me Rincon was best on pure north.thats a fact,with pure north it peels like a perfect point.these folks who say iys best on west's have it all wrong.i know as I've surfed Rincon on all directions and sizes. Shout out to my surfing mentor willy barkuff !!
Some of the best footage and beauty ive seen
hey! thats me on the first wave in the video, on the orange board. thanks for capturing. I was riding a 7'2 and it felt like a toothpick. I was going so fast my fins were humming. the board was so locked in I couldn't break the rail free to do a carve, just lock and load! I got washed all the way down and had to climb out on the freeway wall and hike back over a mile to the parking lot. I would say yes, biggest Rincon ever. at least for me! thank you
I lived at Rincon ( 3rd property south of the river mouth ) and I’ve seen it twice as big! That’s when I would head down to Little Rincon and surf… 🏄🏼♂️
Nice footage! Those outside sets were massive! Good to see the spot still holds up double overhead.
There's no way this was the biggest ever ~ Ask David Nuuhiva ~ He was there in 1969 when at high tide it was washing over the coast highway and wrecked a motorhome parked on the ocean side edge. All the cars there had to move to the far side. Remember this was when you could still do that ~ I paddled out in a huge lull from the highway and my friends all yelled at me to change direction, to paddle for the oil piers . I barely made it out and we all paddled for the oil piers to get safe. The sets were just gigantic. It all took me by surprise. There were only three guys out when I got out there and it was a constant scratch to get further outside. It was a grey day and a guy went through the bottom of his board dropping in. Probably a hairline crack. I got 3 waves and the tide was high. Nuuhiva went out later same day as I read in the Surer Mag. months later. My waves were in the 15 foot range and the sets were much bigger. My friends on shore weren't having it. NO WAY I could paddle back out after loosing my board in the cove on my last wave ~ NO LEASHES THEN ! I was just 18. They said some sets were 30 foot then.
Yes this is a big relatively clean day, quite beautiful in fact. But, biggest day ever? not even close. I’ve personally surfed at least 6 bigger days, and the 1969 swell was by far the biggest I’ve been out on, the reef outside indicator was breaking 300 yards off the point, at least 25 foot faces, and I’ll admit one of my most memorable spectacular wipeouts ever was out there. I ended up surfing the cove and had a spectacular day. And I’m aware of another 6 days when I was unable to go out due to work or other causes, and I’m sure there were lots more, so biggest? NO!
Ist of all I'm 68 yrs old and my surfing mentor from 66 told me Rincon was best on pure north.thats a fact,with pure north it peels like a perfect point.these folks who say iys best on west's have it all wrong.i know as I've surfed Rincon on all directions and sizes. Shout out to my surfing mentor willy barkuff !!