I have seen many many videos before regarding installation of this kind boost controller, this video is most clear and understandable (step by step ), really NICE, thank much.
From what I read about 3 port solenoids is you can run that number 3 vent port to your intake pipe before the turbo. It keeps the system sealed and lets your MAF read the exact amount of total airflow in the system.
Yes! Some setups need to do this that are very sensitive to unmetered air like KA-T setups with mafs. Most KA-T setups with mafs also need blow through mafs because they just weren’t intended to have that high volume of air. Thankfully you can get away with just venting to atmosphere on most cars like SRs but definitely a point that should be made. Thanks for that!
@@AimlessJP Yes and I have heard that those solenoids can be quite noisy when vented to atmosphere much like a BOV that is not re-circulated compared to one that is. Also stops any foreign material from entering back through the port, hence why you will see some race cars with an air filter on their BOV. I know there is little chance of this happining though it is just a precaution. Will be good to see when you sort your WG issue out how it operates. I didn't know that the new Greddys had a 3 port I thought that only the Blitz ID controller had one. Good to know. Great channel BTW I like how you explain your work in detail, clear and concise! Keep up the good work you seem to know your sh*t.
Does your camera have a "hold focus" function? It was a little annoying watching what you were fitting only to have the camera focus on something else, like your arm. Otherwise, great informative video! Also, a fuse tap is a good way to source power instead of splicing into wires - that poor cigarette lighter must be powering so much ;D
Thanks for the feedback! Unfortunately the hold focus never worked on the camera we are using now but we are planning to upgrade soon. The fuse tap is a great idea, definitely will help with the rats nest of taps too lol! Thanks for showing some support and watching :)
Update: You’re a life saver, this has been the struggle of my life! It turns out I didn’t setup the hold focus correctly. Thank you so much for pointing this out and leading me to look into this more!
So @7:10 The T fitting part I have to route a vacuum line to the fuel rail? On my car the fuel regulator and the fuel filter is all built into one. Which is under the car. Thats been Tee'd off and then I connected the other end that goes the the sensor. But my fuel rail has 2 nipples that has fuel lines going through them. I have stock regulator, fuel rail and I don't have a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator
hey man what’s the difference between the profec you have with the white box and says “clear white” and the profec that is in the black box the unit looks the same?
How is it working? I watched the greddy tutorial and he says its a common mistake to hook your source to manifold. I don't want to run the source to my compressor housing so I'm hoping yours is working fine 🙂
The BOV should be getting it’s source from the intake manifold not between the fpr and fuel rail so first I would probably move the BOV source to the correct location. After that you can continue on without any issues :)
Hey, so I got the BOV only sourcing from the manifold now. Controller is installed and set up. Now tuning I do not know what I am doing. I have a t25 and stock ecu. Im aiming for 12-15 psi boost. I got 11.8psi boost but I am getting boost spikes. What do you have your settings set up to? I currently have SET at 30% and GAIN at -10%. My boost curve is lower but spiking in 2nd-3rd gear
If you are hitting 11.8 psi then your “set” is probably close to what you need to it be at. I would try raising it slightly to get it to the 12-15 psi you are aiming for and then I would actually lower down your “gain” all the way down to zero. After that try doing some pulls and see what you are peaking at and see if it’s boost creeping. If it doesn’t boost creep you can raise the gain slightly and repeat until it creeps then just back it off some. Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any questions and sadly every car is slightly different so exact numbers are different from car to car and you just have to keep refining your setup :(
Both the camera woman and I were still learning how to use the camera so it definitely wasn’t the best but I think we got it down now. This was a much older video. Sorry for the lack of focus :(
I have seen many many videos before regarding installation of this kind boost controller, this video is most clear and understandable (step by step ), really NICE, thank much.
Thank you!
@@AimlessJPwhere can I get a white one to buy like yours bro
This is exactly what I needed perfect timing!
Thanks :)
From what I read about 3 port solenoids is you can run that number 3 vent port to your intake pipe before the turbo. It keeps the system sealed and lets your MAF read the exact amount of total airflow in the system.
Yes! Some setups need to do this that are very sensitive to unmetered air like KA-T setups with mafs. Most KA-T setups with mafs also need blow through mafs because they just weren’t intended to have that high volume of air. Thankfully you can get away with just venting to atmosphere on most cars like SRs but definitely a point that should be made. Thanks for that!
@@AimlessJP Yes and I have heard that those solenoids can be quite noisy when vented to atmosphere much like a BOV that is not re-circulated compared to one that is. Also stops any foreign material from entering back through the port, hence why you will see some race cars with an air filter on their BOV. I know there is little chance of this happining though it is just a precaution. Will be good to see when you sort your WG issue out how it operates. I didn't know that the new Greddys had a 3 port I thought that only the Blitz ID controller had one. Good to know. Great channel BTW I like how you explain your work in detail, clear and concise! Keep up the good work you seem to know your sh*t.
Thank you so much!! :)
Does your camera have a "hold focus" function? It was a little annoying watching what you were fitting only to have the camera focus on something else, like your arm. Otherwise, great informative video! Also, a fuse tap is a good way to source power instead of splicing into wires - that poor cigarette lighter must be powering so much ;D
Thanks for the feedback! Unfortunately the hold focus never worked on the camera we are using now but we are planning to upgrade soon. The fuse tap is a great idea, definitely will help with the rats nest of taps too lol! Thanks for showing some support and watching :)
Update: You’re a life saver, this has been the struggle of my life! It turns out I didn’t setup the hold focus correctly. Thank you so much for pointing this out and leading me to look into this more!
So @7:10 The T fitting part I have to route a vacuum line to the fuel rail? On my car the fuel regulator and the fuel filter is all built into one. Which is under the car. Thats been Tee'd off and then I connected the other end that goes the the sensor. But my fuel rail has 2 nipples that has fuel lines going through them.
I have stock regulator, fuel rail and I don't have a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator
the perfect video 🫡
Thanks!
hey man what’s the difference between the profec you have with the white box and says “clear white” and the profec that is in the black box the unit looks the same?
No difference really. Only difference is this one has a white backlight and the other one has a blue backlight
How is it working? I watched the greddy tutorial and he says its a common mistake to hook your source to manifold. I don't want to run the source to my compressor housing so I'm hoping yours is working fine 🙂
Works perfectly fine, zero issues! :)
Also I installed it exactly how the instructions from GReddy states.
@AimlessJP was the waste gate bad or did you just need to set it up properly? Thanks BTW for the video.
What’s the other controller that you have on the center of your steering wheel?
That’s a Yashio Factory water temp gauge :)
explained great, cameraman is shockingly bad
I have a BOV Tee’d between the fpr and the fuel rail. Help
The BOV should be getting it’s source from the intake manifold not between the fpr and fuel rail so first I would probably move the BOV source to the correct location. After that you can continue on without any issues :)
Hey, so I got the BOV only sourcing from the manifold now. Controller is installed and set up. Now tuning I do not know what I am doing. I have a t25 and stock ecu. Im aiming for 12-15 psi boost. I got 11.8psi boost but I am getting boost spikes. What do you have your settings set up to? I currently have SET at 30% and GAIN at -10%. My boost curve is lower but spiking in 2nd-3rd gear
If you are hitting 11.8 psi then your “set” is probably close to what you need to it be at. I would try raising it slightly to get it to the 12-15 psi you are aiming for and then I would actually lower down your “gain” all the way down to zero. After that try doing some pulls and see what you are peaking at and see if it’s boost creeping. If it doesn’t boost creep you can raise the gain slightly and repeat until it creeps then just back it off some. Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any questions and sadly every car is slightly different so exact numbers are different from car to car and you just have to keep refining your setup :(
not work ?
sell me the model 5s
🫣
@@AimlessJP how much frfr
How much do you value a kiss at?
@@AimlessJP 1 mil no cap
fire your camera guy
Both the camera woman and I were still learning how to use the camera so it definitely wasn’t the best but I think we got it down now. This was a much older video. Sorry for the lack of focus :(
@@AimlessJP i was kidding haha thanks for reply good video
🫶
bad focus is out of control.. unwatchable
I think its ur connection cuz its clear for me