I got my 240 amp alt from you guys few weeks ago....got diodes and my yinlong bank built and gonna install everything this weekend....waiting on my box to get built and then its time to aggravate my neighbors a little. Awesome products.....Autotech has definitely made a strong name for itself with customer service and quality!!
Has the 240 worked ok at idle as far as charging my buddies 290 works great at higher rpm but idle it has charging issues I ordered a 290 last week and called this morning and dropped it to the 240 to be safe
Came across this video doing some research i see the diode thank u for that my question is i have a ford that i had the regulator changed to work like this it worked over a year my question is i think the diodes stopped working and when i pulled apart the harness it had a resistor in line with the yellow wire is that needed to replace?
I just got a new Load handler alternator to replace my old original load handler and this new one has remote sense capability but old one didn't so want to use the feature. Do I just connect a signal wire from the S terminal to positive of one of the batteries?
So just to clarify, you run your sensor wire to the diode off the alt to the + side of the alt? Got that part. What about the other side of the sensor wire that runs back to the fuse box? Will your battery/alternator light be on, on the dash? Do you just tape it off or hook it up to the back side of the diode also/just splice the wire add diode then run a wire from it to the charging terminal? Thanks for everything
I have a '13 Jeep JK with a stock 160amp alt. It charges at 14.2v but I have dual agm deep cycle/starting batteries that need at least 14.4v to properly charge. What would be the right diode to get up to say 14.8-15v?
don't do it. AGM's have higher concentration acid in them, due to glass matt, they won't sulfate due to stratification like flooded batteries, so don't need to be brought up that high. All you will be doing is promoting positive grid corrosion premature failure.
@@thedavesofourlives1 Paperwork from the manufacturer that came with the batteries as well as the labeling on them, specifically says they need constant 14.4v to charge properly. They are deep cycle/starting.
@@xBLACKxOPSxSECRETSx2 the first gen tundras, sequoias, FJ cruisers, 3rd gen 4Runners have the 4.7 v8. So, I was able to make the diodes work from the sensor wire at the fuse box. It’s the white wire. I spliced into it & added diodes & was charging up to 15.7v
I got my 240 amp alt from you guys few weeks ago....got diodes and my yinlong bank built and gonna install everything this weekend....waiting on my box to get built and then its time to aggravate my neighbors a little. Awesome products.....Autotech has definitely made a strong name for itself with customer service and quality!!
Has the 240 worked ok at idle as far as charging my buddies 290 works great at higher rpm but idle it has charging issues I ordered a 290 last week and called this morning and dropped it to the 240 to be safe
First one to clearly explain how to do the diode mod thanks
Came across this video doing some research i see the diode thank u for that my question is i have a ford that i had the regulator changed to work like this it worked over a year my question is i think the diodes stopped working and when i pulled apart the harness it had a resistor in line with the yellow wire is that needed to replace?
@@thebeanner1 depends on the regulator brand. Ours don't require the resistor
@@autotechengineeringusa thanks for the response..
I just got a new Load handler alternator to replace my old original load handler and this new one has remote sense capability but old one didn't so want to use the feature. Do I just connect a signal wire from the S terminal to positive of one of the batteries?
Where was that blue wire going to Does it go to your fees box and What is the diode name to buy ?.
Blue wire to alternator positive post, diode 1n4007
You guys rock love you're products thank you for sharing yhe knowledge
So just to clarify, you run your sensor wire to the diode off the alt to the + side of the alt? Got that part. What about the other side of the sensor wire that runs back to the fuse box? Will your battery/alternator light be on, on the dash? Do you just tape it off or hook it up to the back side of the diode also/just splice the wire add diode then run a wire from it to the charging terminal? Thanks for everything
Hey did you every get the answer for this questions?
No answer on the other wire?
What are you saying? You literally just put a diode in the sensor wire, you don't remove any wires. Nothing will change but an added diode
Is it ok to put 2pcs diode on a parallel connection?
Would this shorten the life span of your guys alternators or make them run hotter ? Also what size diode?
It does not make it run hotter. Lifespan is same. Diode numbers are in4004 or in4007
Awesome thanks so much I have two of your guys alts on my trucks they are great 👍
@@autotechengineeringusa will this really work????
Is the yellow wire ground?
Ignition
Does it work with a 3 pin alternator?
It works with any pin style as long as you connect to the sens wire which it will have a S on your plug bro
I have a '13 Jeep JK with a stock 160amp alt. It charges at 14.2v but I have dual agm deep cycle/starting batteries that need at least 14.4v to properly charge. What would be the right diode to get up to say 14.8-15v?
don't do it. AGM's have higher concentration acid in them, due to glass matt, they won't sulfate due to stratification like flooded batteries, so don't need to be brought up that high. All you will be doing is promoting positive grid corrosion premature failure.
6/23 update, was able to change the charging voltage with hp tuners without needing to modify the wiring
@@thedavesofourlives1 Paperwork from the manufacturer that came with the batteries as well as the labeling on them, specifically says they need constant 14.4v to charge properly. They are deep cycle/starting.
14.4 is FAAAAR from 15v you said@@DanMcD80
So the diodes goes to the sence wire and then to a ground?????
Yeah bro. Tell me how it goes after you ground your sense wire
@@GodIsGood1991 ok thanks
@@GodIsGood1991 wow 15.9 volts
@@GodIsGood1991 😂😂😂
@@GodIsGood1991😂😂😂
Slt ça peux fonctionne sur un alternateur normal c est a dire d origine
I have the 4pin ad244 can I hook the diode wire straight to the ignition coil
Diode goes to sense if you have sense code
Will this blow my amp or lights on a factory alternator that has 14.5 volts
Would it work on a 04 chevy silverado with 3 wire plug. No wire coming out on the S side just the P L F
You need our plug harness on our website
Does it work for any high output alternator?
Wat kind diode are u using ?
I tried it but it didn't work what to do
like all diode videos always fail....we need to know the connection on both sides!!!!can you please explain both sides?!!
That's all you need is 1 diode?
What size diode is used?
Unfortunately, doesn’t work on Toyota 4.7. Tried 4-5 diodes in series. Voltage never changed.
What's a toyota 4.7? I have a 05 Camry would it not work?
I fitted a diode in the alternator fuse. IN4001. PUT A 7.5 AMP FUSE. I had a Toyota hilux. Brought voltage to 14.7 to 14.9 cold. Easy as.
@@xBLACKxOPSxSECRETSx2 the first gen tundras, sequoias, FJ cruisers, 3rd gen 4Runners have the 4.7 v8. So, I was able to make the diodes work from the sensor wire at the fuse box. It’s the white wire. I spliced into it & added diodes & was charging up to 15.7v
@@joelslaughter9056 Long term results?? Burnt out dash lights or ecm going crazy?
@@DarkLinkAD only if charging up to 16v. Truck idles like with a miss, AC doesn’t work, cruise, etc. 15.5v is the sweet spot. No issues with lithium.
Tengo un 320amp y al mento de ponerle el diodo no ase nada
Dope
What the l wire hook up to
S wire not connected at first but alternator still charging I thought it needed key on source
that would be the lamp wire you're thinking of.
Where the other wires go
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