I like the idea dea of caulking the pan to the perimeter before the caulk joint to guide the water into the pan in case of caulking failure very smart.
Lol probably should have checked the in and out level with a laser before saying good enough and caulking over the screw heads. Can’t expect the sill to be absolutely perfect the entire way across. I get splitting the difference, but if you lose/gain an 1/8th on the top it ain’t gonna kill ya, but what will is that sub sill not being perfectly level
#1 Do not check for level of a 10' opening with a 4' level. #2 You still should have set the pan in a bed of caulk and you take that bed of caulk up the wall. #3 why are the end dams not seam sealed before the sill is i stalled. There are many projects that the glaziers are not caulking their own frames. Why take the chance?
@@ohyaohya6201mom and pop shop here, we only do residential... we are just now learning about store fronts... could you explain your 2nd point to me... the part up about taking it up the wall. Thanks.
Dude, he literally says later on we will be caulking exterior and interior completely encapsulating with caulk…. Commercial Glazer here you do not set a high-performance sill pan in a bed of caulk.
you do not set high quality sill pans in any caulk or sealant. many framing suppliers advise against doing that. when the system moves over time the sealant will tear, causing water to sit still causing many issues. look it up brother.
The subsil is the drainage for your whole system has to be done correctl.. great job brother!!!
I like the idea dea of caulking the pan to the perimeter before the caulk joint to guide the water into the pan in case of caulking failure very smart.
We put down flashing in a bed of caulk screwed down and then the extruded pan after. Probably more work but im just trynna make a living 😅
It’s called a sill flashing with storefront and a subsill for a window.
Wrong it is an extruded subsill
Lol probably should have checked the in and out level with a laser before saying good enough and caulking over the screw heads. Can’t expect the sill to be absolutely perfect the entire way across. I get splitting the difference, but if you lose/gain an 1/8th on the top it ain’t gonna kill ya, but what will is that sub sill not being perfectly level
Good video. Is that Kevin Costner talking?
Isn't drilling thru subsill defeating the purpose of the subsill, U never drill thru alcor
#1 Do not check for level of a 10' opening with a 4' level. #2 You still should have set the pan in a bed of caulk and you take that bed of caulk up the wall. #3 why are the end dams not seam sealed before the sill is i stalled. There are many projects that the glaziers are not caulking their own frames. Why take the chance?
it is a high performance pan, it does not set in a bed of caulk
Again. If you are not perimeter caulking your own frames why on gods green earth would you not bed it and dam it up the wall?
@@ohyaohya6201mom and pop shop here, we only do residential... we are just now learning about store fronts... could you explain your 2nd point to me... the part up about taking it up the wall. Thanks.
Dude, he literally says later on we will be caulking exterior and interior completely encapsulating with caulk…. Commercial Glazer here you do not set a high-performance sill pan in a bed of caulk.
you do not set high quality sill pans in any caulk or sealant. many framing suppliers advise against doing that. when the system moves over time the sealant will tear, causing water to sit still causing many issues. look it up brother.