R.I.P Legend .you breathed life into the dying world of bushcraft, you influenced so many myself including, I promise my grand kids will always know you throughout their lives..God bless you and your family 👪..thanks again 🙏 ❤️ 💙..Lee
One of the most interesting things about his review is how little emphasis he puts on type of steel, especially since these days the steel snobs are practically exchanging nuclear weapons on the subject. I assume his views were effected by the almost uniform use of carbon steel back in his day. You could sharpen it by hand and potential rust was controllable. And his big factor-it didn’t break easily. Maybe we should pay attention to the master, who has seen a few knives along the way.
That's so true. He puts little emphasis on the steel because its the least important in the real world. Of course knife makers wanna sell you a knife so they place emphasis on steel type. Geometry determines functionality of the heat treatment of the steel.GeometryHeat treatSteel
When I use a knife for the first time, I prefer not to know what type of steel it's made of, because I want to cut, chop and stab with the reality of the knife, not a steel name, a concept, an idea, a heat treatment etc... Just me with the tool as it is, and the stuff to cut.
I agree Cal20. Reality and truth, even in the domain of tools/knives is something so ''simple'' that we often miss it in this world of illusion. Praxis or pragmatism as you said is the beginning and the end (the question and the answer, so the core), of this subject.
Many of the steels used today did not even exist yet when this was shot. The stainless steels of the time were largely inferior to the carbon of the day as well. Watch his knife making video and you'll see him being pretty selective about where he salvages the steel. Mostly old saw blades he knows are made of suitable steel and could be worked and treated in the sub-professional environment they were made in.
@@ResilienceOnPurposenope most steels are over 25 years old you are buying into the knife companies marketing. Many times if something doesn’t sell they will rename the steel. As a matter of fact the only new steel I’m aware of is magnacut. An it’s not that it’s really new it’s stainless with a few things added. The basic truth is carbon steel still makes the best knife steel. Stainless is mostly for people that don’t use their tools. I have a whole tool box full of steel it doesn’t rust because I use them. Something when you go on vacation and come back things have a layer of rust. Then a few days of use they are good as new. In my opinion toughness and ease of sharpening are the most important things in a outdoor knife.
The Bushcraft knife I made for myself is somewhere between the Skookum and the Mors made knife. I used a piece non-stain high-carbon steel from a Japanese chef's knife with white oak cabinet would handle scales for pins I used galvanized nails and two pieces of stainless steel gas line for lanyard/ spear tying holes.
I also tie a peice of bright orange string onto the handle . It makes it easier to find if it's dropped in the snow , water or deep grass . If it came down to a choice of an axe or knife I have to chose the axe for in the bush but I always carry both .
The "Old Man" knows…!It seems that the handle of the Skokum is somewhat squarish…I have an USA model bushcraft knive with a similar handle that hurts and cause blisters after a few minutes of hard use!I have a fabulous model from PScutelary (portuguese), but I also like a "mora" type, but mine is full rat-tail and has stacked leather handle (that is awesome). Yes, no "rambos" here, no fancy gadgets, just pure blades that need care and attention and reward the owners with a weel done job.Thanks Mors, our Bushcraft Grand Daddy, thanks!
Thank-you Sir. Always fighting with a stubborn keyboard and a speller "corrector" is hard. You may not figure out how some friends from the USA were amused when I was trying to tell them how bad was the attack from the midges and the damned corrector wrote "midgets" without me noticing...! Concerning the blades, although I have some "nice ones" (Kreios+Shrappnell+NK3+NK1) from Extrema Ratio, I must confess my favourite blades are my tomahawk from PSCutelary and a simple spear point I bought from Jason Drevenak (American Bushcraft Association)... nothing fancy, but reliable and I feel very comfortable with those 2 blades. I'm really shocked with some comments... Of course GrandPa Mors is not a young lad anymore...but, if anytime I would get lost or be in trouble in the woods, I would rather have GrandPa Mors as mate or adviser then those "sofa coachers" with voices on steroids, lots of tatoos and a baseball caps... please, let those pimps have the world record points on the game of bushcraft (if there is such a thing)
Yes sir, GrandPap Mors anytime... perhaps he might not be the most extreme desert expert...but surely in a bad situation he would be the man to listen to... The other day I was communicating with Ullrica and I told her my "dream tribe" would be FarNorthBushcraft&Survival, Keith Burgess, Eugene Runkis, SurvivalRussia, Gullrica, Hiker in Estonia and Susanne Williams... so no Ray Mears or Native Survival, or PathfinderSchool or BearGrills... Of course, GrandPap Mors would be there, right? and we would gladly invite for dinner Reallybigmonkey and there are some nice folks around that know what they are doing... but no bushcraftstars, please! The all thing can be really dangerous, especially for the younger ones... last October I was in a meeting of our national bushcraft school, and there was a couple of lads that could not even light a fire...I helped them, and they were say they "saw half a dozen of nice videos..." I pity them and recomended comming to the meetings, talk with the others, learn and practice... watch a few videos is not enough... That very same night they had an emergency because their tent (with rain cover AND A TARP above...got flooded! Can you believe? My small 7x7 Tentsmith tarp worked perfectly, I never was neither cold nor wet... poor guys... they will learn...hopefully not the hard way...!
Gee...you are a man who call a spade a spade! But I can't but agree...as we say here "luxurious leaves...but rotten fruits!" Our national bushcraft school is small and modest, probably about 50 members. Well might not be the best in the world but certainly we share our knowledge and experience (or lack of it!). I often question the "philosophy" as they follow the 5 C of the Pathfinder School. It's a useful menmonic but leaves a lot behind. I prefer to use the 5 M I developed for myself... - MIND (and body) how am I? strong? cold? wounded? ill? - MAP where am I (or going to be) forest? desert? swamps? coastline? - MEANS what shall I bring or what do I have at my disposal? - METHODS how shall I use my means (and when?)... - MILESTONE what is my goal? evasion? stroll in the city park? weekend off? a week off? This menmonic I find better suited for me...
@Carson haha! 😆 A comment like that is going to offend all the Tom Brown Tracker fanboys who made their “survival knife” purchase after watching The Hunted.
I love how this guy is just simple, nothing fancy, no fancy steels etc. The knife game these days is such marketing BS. More or less a knife is a knife, excluding the very cheapest walmart crap.
Mors is the man. Of course survival knives are better than a survival knive. A 'sharpened prybar' fixed blade that you can chop, split and pry with and a razor sharp pocket knife that you can do fine carving and skinning with will give you ideal function.
What, you intend on EDC'ing two knives with you all the time? Because when an unexpected survival emergency happens, you get to survive with what you're carrying on you and if your primary kit is with your hiking/hunting pack, that knife end up being whatever knife you have in your pocket. I spent almost three days once when a gf and I got stranded in her car up in north east Washington because of a blown tire and no spare. It would have been longer I'm sure if no one knew our approximate location and when we expected to be back. All we had was my folding knife, which is a large clip point Voyager, and a John Wiseman style psk. I was able to build a shelter, keep us somewhat warm, and hydrated. We were exhausted and hungry when help finally arrived; but we made it.
Hockey sticks used to all be made out of ash wood. A wonderful hardwood for scales and a used hockey stick can be bought at a second hand store for a few bucks and make 10 handles.
I can't stand high chromium knives for the simple fact that it has no "soul", per-se. I can't appreciate anything more than looking at a carbon steel blade after it's been used on different things, including food, for so long that it features that beautiful rainbow that proves it's been around. A stain-resistant steel has none of that character and is as bland as dried out crust of bread
Mr. Kochanski, I am in the process of ordering a Skoocum knife like the one you use, but I would like to ask you, what steel is yours, I want one just like yours. Is yours the O1 steel or the A2 steel, I know I will have to practise alot with it to get the smooth cuts like your videos, but I know I can do it, so please reply. Kindest Regards, Paul
did you end up getting a skookum? I know it’s been 8 years, but to explain a tidbit about the steels in case you’re still wondering: Both will take an extremely fine edge. You won’t notice a difference there. A2 will keep its edge longer than O1, but will take longer to sharpen. A2 is also a bit tougher than O1, but both steels are exceedingly tough for a knife the size of the skookum. O1 is a “simple” tool steel, while A2 is a highly alloyed one. That difference means O1 can reliably strike sparks with flint, whereas A2 cannot.
It holds beautifully against wood, but any edge will be damaged against metal, stone, or bone, so why not go with the edge that will perform best at cutting wood?
Considering the nature of the video and the logic behind Donnelly's reply, you shot your own argument in the back with your reply to him. Nice one Pete, hahaha. By the way, the edge on a scandi grind can be reinforced very easily by breaking the fine edge with two 45 degree swipes on a well oiled black Arkansas stone and if anyone strops their scandi ground knife, that happens every time they strop it anyway.
Fingerguards often interfere with many bushcrafting grips which are important for woodcraft, skinning & butchering. If you only have one knife with you, multiple grip comfort is very important! And with good technique, sliding forward and cutting yourself is very unlikely!
I can tell you the first one is a Mora, I believe he states that the second is a Skoocum , I don't know what the white handled one is. I have used Mora's, they are wonderful knives and @ around $15 to $20 you can't beat them for value.
Looks to me like antler scales, may be white wood, pissibly walnut without any stain, it may even be improved with synthetic materials, such as micarta or G10, I'd personally go for white canvas (if it must be that color.) Otherwise for me its fluorescent orange all the way, for a small knife. Easy to lose, easy to find.
he said in an interview somewhere that it was sent to him by a knife maker named Roger Harrington, go to bison bushcraft and look under available knives. it is the one with Roger Harrington so name by it, doesn't have antler scales but otherwise is pretty similar and actually not super expensive
Say Heah Mr. K, I saved this videa..I watch it every once in a while when we plan a trip, This trip I was going to take my Himalayan Imports M-43 it's a Full Tang with Black Buffalo Horn Handle and the knife is my Bokor Magnum Series Vox Collection 2011 and the handle matches the Khukuri in many ways because of its retro design it's a beauty and made out of 440c. Stainless which I grew up on. I find it a acceptable steel if properly tempered. For my delicate work I was going to take my Vintage Myerchin Pocket Knife with the Marlin Spike a great tool to untangle paracord, but the blade is a good size modified Warrencliff with a belly that works wood very good it's very robust and is strong and very sharp, all of them I have very sharp. But when I was getting out of bed, I dropped a Bokor Vox Black Rold on my foot and I can stop the bleeding so I might have to go to the E. R. I have the leg lifted and hope I won't have to get stitched up, I did that once before grrrrrrrr, But every time zip watch this video I Thank You for introducing me to my Skookum Bush Tool which I had made in 3V Steel, It's a great carver. and one of my Fav's. But my Fav's has to be my Busse Combat Son of Badger a 4 3/4" blade made out of the INFI Steel and it too works wood very good and it's a very strong knife. Keep up teaching us.You Sir are one of the best. I try to copy you when you work wood with a knife. Thanx Mr. K.
what's your opinion on hidden tang knives? the rat tail tang, is obviously a weaker design, but the hidden tang seems to provide the aesthetics of a rat tang with the strength of a full tang. what are your thoughts?
Hidden tang is not a problem if it's made in a proper way. They have been used and abused for way longer than fulltang knives which became popular in the last 500 years. Production knives are often made to have a fast assembly. I would recommend you to find a knowledgeable knife maker if you want a hidden tang knife.
I"ve been like that for years. Pissed off lot of custom knife fan-bitches with that attitude to. One actually said that if I make my own knives, I may as well make my own clothes too. I told him I already do. People can be real cunts online.
They say that the size of the knife being carried is an indication of experience. IE: the shorter the blade, the more a person has been in the scrub. So if you see someone who carries a Mora Eldris as their survival knife and wears things like primitive style hand made leather boots, you're probably looking at a modern day Otzi, hahaha. My survival knife is made from 3/32 inch cross cut steel. The blade is 1 1/4 x 4 1/4 inches with a modified scandi grind and the full tang handle is also 4 1/4 inches. I made it full tang so I can carry the bare blade and craft a handle out in the scrub. Truth be told, a hidden tang is actually stronger than a full tang, and that came from ABS master bladesmith Jim Rhisoulas. Why are they though? because the tang is encased by the grip which reinforces it vs having slabs riveted to a full flat tang that offer little support in comparison. If the blade/tang junction is at least 1/2 the blade width, 3/4 being better, it will hold up to the same stress as a full tang. The fact that it narrows to the pommel is inconsequential since the stress zone is focused on the first 1/3 past the blade/tang junction. If hidden tangs were so weak, knives from Finland or Sweden would have become full tang hundreds of years ago.
@Arizona I agree that partial tangs can be far more durable than many think but the ones that are have very good heat treat. To go as far as saying that they are stronger than a full tang is just flat out wrong. A good full tang custom in O1 or A2 would be almost impossible to break by hand. The same can not be said about Moras. I really like Mora knives but when it comes to shear strength. They are not in the same class as a good custom.
Mr.Kochanski, Please contact me, I would like to introduce you to Mr. John Bradley Knives, John uses a 52100 steel but he Austempers his knives the special temper makes the steel a excellent sharp blade,,,Please Reply!
Mors Kochanski may know his stuff, but his constantly moving his hands and fiddling with the knifes as they fall over and roll around on the table is really distracting. I couldn't move my hands that much if I tried (and I just did try.) Also, I wish he explained a few points better. Why is a constant curve a good thing? Why is the lack of a guard a good thing? Or maybe its a bad thing; he points it out very specifically, but then drops it.
lol hes a million years old haha thats why he fidgets i would assume hahaha no guard means you can choke up on the handle giving better control for finer carving, curved blades are better for skinning game and other taskes
R.I.P Legend .you breathed life into the dying world of bushcraft, you influenced so many myself including, I promise my grand kids will always know you throughout their lives..God bless you and your family 👪..thanks again 🙏 ❤️ 💙..Lee
One of the most interesting things about his review is how little emphasis he puts on type of steel, especially since these days the steel snobs are practically exchanging nuclear weapons on the subject. I assume his views were effected by the almost uniform use of carbon steel back in his day. You could sharpen it by hand and potential rust was controllable. And his big factor-it didn’t break easily.
Maybe we should pay attention to the master, who has seen a few knives along the way.
That's so true. He puts little emphasis on the steel because its the least important in the real world. Of course knife makers wanna sell you a knife so they place emphasis on steel type. Geometry determines functionality of the heat treatment of the steel.GeometryHeat treatSteel
When I use a knife for the first time, I prefer not to know what type of steel it's made of, because I want to cut, chop and stab with the reality of the knife, not a steel name, a concept, an idea, a heat treatment etc... Just me with the tool as it is, and the stuff to cut.
I agree Cal20. Reality and truth, even in the domain of tools/knives is something so ''simple'' that we often miss it in this world of illusion. Praxis or pragmatism as you said is the beginning and the end (the question and the answer, so the core), of this subject.
Many of the steels used today did not even exist yet when this was shot. The stainless steels of the time were largely inferior to the carbon of the day as well. Watch his knife making video and you'll see him being pretty selective about where he salvages the steel. Mostly old saw blades he knows are made of suitable steel and could be worked and treated in the sub-professional environment they were made in.
@@ResilienceOnPurposenope most steels are over 25 years old you are buying into the knife companies marketing. Many times if something doesn’t sell they will rename the steel. As a matter of fact the only new steel I’m aware of is magnacut. An it’s not that it’s really new it’s stainless with a few things added.
The basic truth is carbon steel still makes the best knife steel. Stainless is mostly for people that don’t use their tools. I have a whole tool box full of steel it doesn’t rust because I use them. Something when you go on vacation and come back things have a layer of rust. Then a few days of use they are good as new.
In my opinion toughness and ease of sharpening are the most important things in a outdoor knife.
From R-L: Mora, Bison Bushcraft Knife, Skookum Bush Tool, Roycroft/ Kochanski Special
The Bushcraft knife I made for myself is somewhere between the Skookum and the Mors made knife. I used a piece non-stain high-carbon steel from a Japanese chef's knife with white oak cabinet would handle scales for pins I used galvanized nails and two pieces of stainless steel gas line for lanyard/ spear tying holes.
I also tie a peice of bright orange string onto the handle . It makes it easier to find if it's dropped in the snow , water or deep grass . If it came down to a choice of an axe or knife I have to chose the axe for in the bush but I always carry both .
Yeah id ditch the knife pretty quickly if it was one or the other. Much as i love knives.
Leave it to Canadians to make a knife with a hockey stick! :) That's awesome!
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excellent information, thank you
I have seen Mors with the Mora in a number of videos.
can i translate this for my friends? i am so tired to see many rambo knives on belts
The "Old Man" knows…!It seems that the handle of the Skokum is somewhat squarish…I have an USA model bushcraft knive with a similar handle that hurts and cause blisters after a few minutes of hard use!I have a fabulous model from PScutelary (portuguese), but I also like a "mora" type, but mine is full rat-tail and has stacked leather handle (that is awesome). Yes, no "rambos" here, no fancy gadgets, just pure blades that need care and attention and reward the owners with a weel done job.Thanks Mors, our Bushcraft Grand Daddy, thanks!
Thank-you Sir. Always fighting with a stubborn keyboard and a speller "corrector" is hard. You may not figure out how some friends from the USA were amused when I was trying to tell them how bad was the attack from the midges and the damned corrector wrote "midgets" without me noticing...!
Concerning the blades, although I have some "nice ones" (Kreios+Shrappnell+NK3+NK1) from Extrema Ratio, I must confess my favourite blades are my tomahawk from PSCutelary and a simple spear point I bought from Jason Drevenak (American Bushcraft Association)... nothing fancy, but reliable and I feel very comfortable with those 2 blades.
I'm really shocked with some comments... Of course GrandPa Mors is not a young lad anymore...but, if anytime I would get lost or be in trouble in the woods, I would rather have GrandPa Mors as mate or adviser then those "sofa coachers" with voices on steroids, lots of tatoos and a baseball caps... please, let those pimps have the world record points on the game of bushcraft (if there is such a thing)
Yes sir, GrandPap Mors anytime... perhaps he might not be the most extreme desert expert...but surely in a bad situation he would be the man to listen to... The other day I was communicating with Ullrica and I told her my "dream tribe" would be FarNorthBushcraft&Survival, Keith Burgess, Eugene Runkis, SurvivalRussia, Gullrica, Hiker in Estonia and Susanne Williams... so no Ray Mears or Native Survival, or PathfinderSchool or BearGrills... Of course, GrandPap Mors would be there, right? and we would gladly invite for dinner Reallybigmonkey and there are some nice folks around that know what they are doing... but no bushcraftstars, please!
The all thing can be really dangerous, especially for the younger ones... last October I was in a meeting of our national bushcraft school, and there was a couple of lads that could not even light a fire...I helped them, and they were say they "saw half a dozen of nice videos..." I pity them and recomended comming to the meetings, talk with the others, learn and practice... watch a few videos is not enough... That very same night they had an emergency because their tent (with rain cover AND A TARP above...got flooded! Can you believe? My small 7x7 Tentsmith tarp worked perfectly, I never was neither cold nor wet... poor guys... they will learn...hopefully not the hard way...!
Gee...you are a man who call a spade a spade! But I can't but agree...as we say here "luxurious leaves...but rotten fruits!"
Our national bushcraft school is small and modest, probably about 50 members. Well might not be the best in the world but certainly we share our knowledge and experience (or lack of it!). I often question the "philosophy" as they follow the 5 C of the Pathfinder School. It's a useful menmonic but leaves a lot behind.
I prefer to use the 5 M I developed for myself...
- MIND (and body) how am I? strong? cold? wounded? ill?
- MAP where am I (or going to be) forest? desert? swamps? coastline?
- MEANS what shall I bring or what do I have at my disposal?
- METHODS how shall I use my means (and when?)...
- MILESTONE what is my goal? evasion? stroll in the city park? weekend off? a week off?
This menmonic I find better suited for me...
GAUROCH2 only the real outdoorsman appreciate somebody als Mors ,he speaks from experience
Look up "Agder knife" on google and you will find a traditional Norwegian knife with a 6mm thick blade.
Great video, very informative as the other videos I have seen in the same channel. Please keep it up!
What!!! No 14-inch-bladed "tacticool" chopper? What are all the keyboard warriors going to think?
they've moved on to a thing called a "cloud sword" from Final Fantasy, its the best for EDC.
@Carson haha! 😆 A comment like that is going to offend all the Tom Brown Tracker fanboys who made their “survival knife” purchase after watching The Hunted.
Here is my vid request. Show how to choose and use a axe. Also a vid on the bow drill.
I love how this guy is just simple, nothing fancy, no fancy steels etc.
The knife game these days is such marketing BS. More or less a knife is a knife, excluding the very cheapest walmart crap.
I can't say enough for the magnificent of sir Mors, mind you though, I have ocd
I was taken with the Skookum also, as of this moment I have mine in hand, and its the 3V steel one.Thanx I love it.
So you were typing with one hand and a knifepoint?
Mors is the man.
Of course survival knives are better than a survival knive. A 'sharpened prybar' fixed blade that you can chop, split and pry with and a razor sharp pocket knife that you can do fine carving and skinning with will give you ideal function.
What, you intend on EDC'ing two knives with you all the time? Because when an unexpected survival emergency happens, you get to survive with what you're carrying on you and if your primary kit is with your hiking/hunting pack, that knife end up being whatever knife you have in your pocket.
I spent almost three days once when a gf and I got stranded in her car up in north east Washington because of a blown tire and no spare. It would have been longer I'm sure if no one knew our approximate location and when we expected to be back. All we had was my folding knife, which is a large clip point Voyager, and a John Wiseman style psk. I was able to build a shelter, keep us somewhat warm, and hydrated. We were exhausted and hungry when help finally arrived; but we made it.
Nice hat, sir!
Well put!!
A hockey stick knife!!! That's AWESOME!!!!!!
Hockey sticks used to all be made out of ash wood. A wonderful hardwood for scales and a used hockey stick can be bought at a second hand store for a few bucks and make 10 handles.
what are the specific knives you are showing there, by brand? aside of course from the one you made.
How did you make the fire steel holder on your sheath?
#SurvivalKnife with Carbon Blade is the best for me , Stainless Steel Blade is the second. for me :)
I can't stand high chromium knives for the simple fact that it has no "soul", per-se. I can't appreciate anything more than looking at a carbon steel blade after it's been used on different things, including food, for so long that it features that beautiful rainbow that proves it's been around. A stain-resistant steel has none of that character and is as bland as dried out crust of bread
@@angelus_solus So, if it doesn't rust it has no 'soul'? What utter nonsense!
why the continious curve?
I know that you wrote that comment 7 years ago, but it it for making feather stocks easier.
Great video Mors, such an inspiration since reading you bushcraft book. I recently made a video on knife grips.
Mr. Kochanski,
I am in the process of ordering a Skoocum knife like the one you use, but I would like to ask you, what steel is yours, I want one just like yours. Is yours the O1 steel or the A2 steel, I know I will have to practise alot with it to get the smooth cuts like your videos, but I know I can do it, so please reply.
Kindest Regards,
Paul
did you end up getting a skookum? I know it’s been 8 years, but to explain a tidbit about the steels in case you’re still wondering: Both will take an extremely fine edge. You won’t notice a difference there. A2 will keep its edge longer than O1, but will take longer to sharpen. A2 is also a bit tougher than O1, but both steels are exceedingly tough for a knife the size of the skookum. O1 is a “simple” tool steel, while A2 is a highly alloyed one. That difference means O1 can reliably strike sparks with flint, whereas A2 cannot.
The knife may not break, but the scandi grind has one of the weakest edges.
It holds beautifully against wood, but any edge will be damaged against metal, stone, or bone, so why not go with the edge that will perform best at cutting wood?
I never said not to
Considering the nature of the video and the logic behind Donnelly's reply, you shot your own argument in the back with your reply to him. Nice one Pete, hahaha. By the way, the edge on a scandi grind can be reinforced very easily by breaking the fine edge with two 45 degree swipes on a well oiled black Arkansas stone and if anyone strops their scandi ground knife, that happens every time they strop it anyway.
Fingerguards often interfere with many bushcrafting grips which are important for woodcraft, skinning & butchering. If you only have one knife with you, multiple grip comfort is very important! And with good technique, sliding forward and cutting yourself is very unlikely!
I've been using guardless knives ever since I was 16. Never cut myself once because it wasn't there. Cut myself plenty of other ways though, hahaha.
I can tell you the first one is a Mora, I believe he states that the second is a Skoocum , I don't know what the white handled one is. I have used Mora's, they are wonderful knives and @ around $15 to $20 you can't beat them for value.
Does anyone know what the white handled knife is or if anyone makes something like it?
Looks to me like antler scales, may be white wood, pissibly walnut without any stain, it may even be improved with synthetic materials, such as micarta or G10, I'd personally go for white canvas (if it must be that color.) Otherwise for me its fluorescent orange all the way, for a small knife. Easy to lose, easy to find.
he said in an interview somewhere that it was sent to him by a knife maker named Roger Harrington, go to bison bushcraft and look under available knives. it is the one with Roger Harrington so name by it, doesn't have antler scales but otherwise is pretty similar and actually not super expensive
Say Heah Mr. K, I saved this videa..I watch it every once in a while when we plan a trip, This trip I was going to take my Himalayan Imports M-43 it's a Full Tang with Black Buffalo Horn Handle and the knife is my Bokor Magnum Series Vox Collection 2011 and the handle matches the Khukuri in many ways because of its retro design it's a beauty and made out of 440c. Stainless which I grew up on. I find it a acceptable steel if properly tempered. For my delicate work I was going to take my Vintage Myerchin Pocket Knife with the Marlin Spike a great tool to untangle paracord, but the blade is a good size modified Warrencliff with a belly that works wood very good it's very robust and is strong and very sharp, all of them I have very sharp. But when I was getting out of bed, I dropped a Bokor Vox Black Rold on my foot and I can stop the bleeding so I might have to go to the E. R. I have the leg lifted and hope I won't have to get stitched up, I did that once before grrrrrrrr, But every time zip watch this video I Thank You for introducing me to my Skookum Bush Tool which I had made in 3V Steel, It's a great carver. and one of my Fav's. But my Fav's has to be my Busse Combat Son of Badger a 4 3/4" blade made out of the INFI Steel and it too works wood very good and it's a very strong knife. Keep up teaching us.You Sir are one of the best. I try to copy you when you work wood with a knife. Thanx Mr. K.
"Survival knife" wasnt even a thing until Tom Brown developed the tracker...
Nick Boronda And thus began the mass production of garbage, crappy knives like his.
@@itsawonderfulknife7031 haha! Awesome comment! 😆
Tom Brown is the ultimate plastic indian and had zip to do with creating that mess
what's your opinion on hidden tang knives? the rat tail tang, is obviously a weaker design, but the hidden tang seems to provide the aesthetics of a rat tang with the strength of a full tang. what are your thoughts?
Hidden tang is not a problem if it's made in a proper way. They have been used and abused for way longer than fulltang knives which became popular in the last 500 years. Production knives are often made to have a fast assembly. I would recommend you to find a knowledgeable knife maker if you want a hidden tang knife.
If that knife is quality the tang shouldn't matter. Moras are tougher than most full tang knives
Mors be like can’t find a knife I like I will just make one
I"ve been like that for years. Pissed off lot of custom knife fan-bitches with that attitude to. One actually said that if I make my own knives, I may as well make my own clothes too. I told him I already do. People can be real cunts online.
They say that the size of the knife being carried is an indication of experience. IE: the shorter the blade, the more a person has been in the scrub. So if you see someone who carries a Mora Eldris as their survival knife and wears things like primitive style hand made leather boots, you're probably looking at a modern day Otzi, hahaha.
My survival knife is made from 3/32 inch cross cut steel. The blade is 1 1/4 x 4 1/4 inches with a modified scandi grind and the full tang handle is also 4 1/4 inches. I made it full tang so I can carry the bare blade and craft a handle out in the scrub.
Truth be told, a hidden tang is actually stronger than a full tang, and that came from ABS master bladesmith Jim Rhisoulas. Why are they though? because the tang is encased by the grip which reinforces it vs having slabs riveted to a full flat tang that offer little support in comparison. If the blade/tang junction is at least 1/2 the blade width, 3/4 being better, it will hold up to the same stress as a full tang. The fact that it narrows to the pommel is inconsequential since the stress zone is focused on the first 1/3 past the blade/tang junction. If hidden tangs were so weak, knives from Finland or Sweden would have become full tang hundreds of years ago.
@Arizona
I agree that partial tangs can be far more durable than many think but the ones that are have very good heat treat. To go as far as saying that they are stronger than a full tang is just flat out wrong. A good full tang custom in O1 or A2 would be almost impossible to break by hand. The same can not be said about Moras. I really like Mora knives but when it comes to shear strength. They are not in the same class as a good custom.
a knife is just another everyday knife.
Mr.Kochanski,
Please contact me, I would like to introduce you to Mr. John Bradley Knives, John uses a 52100 steel but he Austempers his knives the special temper makes the steel a excellent sharp blade,,,Please Reply!
Mors Kochanski may know his stuff, but his constantly moving his hands and fiddling with the knifes as they fall over and roll around on the table is really distracting. I couldn't move my hands that much if I tried (and I just did try.)
Also, I wish he explained a few points better. Why is a constant curve a good thing? Why is the lack of a guard a good thing? Or maybe its a bad thing; he points it out very specifically, but then drops it.
lol hes a million years old haha thats why he fidgets i would assume hahaha no guard means you can choke up on the handle giving better control for finer carving, curved blades are better for skinning game and other taskes
Probably because hes not really a salesman like so many others on youtube.