I took apart my generator carburetor and cleaned it thoroughly. It kept leaking gas, then i did what you said with a q-tip and drill using mothers polish for 10 seconds twice. The needle valve seat was black and now looks shiny brass just like the one in your video. No more leaking carburetor and once again a great running generator. I learned something new. Thank you!
@@greasemonkey5340 glad it helped, thanks for watching! Hopefully the video was easy to find? I tried to tag the right keywords and title the video properly
This video is a MUST SEE for anyone trying to fix an overflowing carburetor. Unfortunately, I only discovered this video after watching other videos that just take the carburetor off, clean it, blow out the jets, install a carb kit then reinstall. So on my Outboard Mercury 115HP with 4 WME carbs, I did that which is 8 hours of work to take apart the engine, pull the carbs, then re-install excluding the time to pull the boat from the lake and park it to work on, then drop the boat back into the lake. So after my first attempt the carb overflow leak quickly returned, so I figured I must have left some dirt in the carb, or maybe a piece of the new gasket broke off, hence pull the boat out and repeat this time being extra careful of dirt & gaskets. Then dropped the boat back into the lake and again the leak returned. Then I saw this video using a carb tester and valve grinding compound - never even knew about carb testers, INVALUABLE TOOL! So pulled the boat out again, pulled the carbs and did your valve grinding technique on the needle valve seat. Then tested the carb but alas it was showing a slow leak, so I repeated the valve seat grinding procedure. Then on retest, the carb held pressure perfectly - no leakage. Dropped the boat back into the lake, and one very happy boat owner. Can’t thank you enough for this video!
I am a novice at working on small engines, I took it up as a hobby this past year being retired. I've been getting a lot of machines on stuff for free websites. As I always have I save parts. Which brings me to Having saved a lot of needle valves, now I can try a saved one to see if it works. As always GREAT video.
I think we all have a donar tank. LOL I have tried Brasso cleaner to some success. It isn't quite abrasive enough. Great video, I am commenting as I go. Lapping compound has worked better for me than brass cleaner. I switched about a year ago. There it is at 5:31 !!!!!! Nice work
OK, I found the answer. The pin on top of the needle valve was SO firmly stuck that I thought it might have to be unscrewed or something!!!! ))))) Guess I just found the problem. Thanks again Eliminator!
This fixed my issue that has been bothering me for a couple of weeks! I even have a new (cheap) carb on order. Used Autosol and a cotton stick just as shown in the video. Thanks! 🙏
Excellent, I never thought to use lapping compound on a brass seat. Makes logically sense, often times I just put carb cleaner on q-tip and put in drill.
Another good one buddy, for your viewers that may not have access to lapping compound do you think toothpaste or possibly baking soda or powder mixed with oil might work?
Toothpaste is what I was thinking too. It is very slightly abrasive. I think it would be worth a try. I have some Mag polish in the closet. I think it's Mothers. That's always a good go-to polish for odd jobs. Even on paint and Plexi.
No, generally the weight of the float is enough to let you know you have a seal or not under 5psi, sometimes I even test them around 2.5psi and it's good enough to tell me there's a good seal and the carb won't leak. Thanks for watching!
Thanks. Great video. I have what looks like almost exactly the same carburettor and obviously you just slip the pin out that acts as a hinge, but then there's another pin (like yours) that prevents me from taking the float off. I don't want to damage anything, and I can't figure out how to proceed to remove the float and reveal the needle valve and seat. I'm going to see if I can find the answer on another vid, but if you see this and could let me know, I would really appreciate it. Cheers!
Do you think another mildly gritty compound like, say, toothpaste, would have the same effect? Just trying to think if there are other compounds that might accomplish the same thing.
Yes, I've used some stainless steel polish and it seems to work fine, like I said with the valve lap compound I'm not putting a lot of pressure, just enough to let the grit clean up the surface. I'm sure some brass polish would work fine
thank for the video,what if mine gets clogged from not using the bike for a while,,can i just spray carburator cleaner to the hose and blow it with compressor,will the needle valve be ok?thanks again.
This is a good tip with viton tip needles but older brass ones not so much. My arsenal of tools are drill bits ground flat, end mill bits, and dremel polishing bits cut at 45*. I basically go at it like cutting a new intake/exh. valve seat😆 these cheap ope carbs are not as rare and as expensive as keihins on Atv’s and bikes.
is the bore ( needle seat bore for the new neoprene gasket ( biscuit) in the carb for the needle seat , straight bore or tapered? can you measure it , and confirm?
Unfortunately UA-cam is in charge of ad placement, wherever you see a yellow mark on the timeline is when one can play, but they don't always play. Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
@@mikehrdlicka8635 either or, the lapping compound requires less pressure and gets it done faster but if you're not careful it can really bite into the soft metal.
I have used baking soda type toothpaste as valve lapping compound. Flushing with carb cleaner of course. I also use electronic cleaning swabs, they are smaller in diameter and use a felt tip instead of cotton. I have cleaned the electronic cleaning swabs and reused.
Yes anything that's gritty and polishes will work. I'm going to try toothpaste, as many have suggested it. So far, I haven't had one fail once it's been polished with the valve lap compound. But as others mentioned, you have to be careful as it's meant to be used on hardened steel and not brass.
Yea it's what I had at the time, haven't had an issue with any, which is why I mentioned not a lot of pressure. I'm now using brass polish, but it needs to be cleaned even better.
You don't drill it, you're just spinning the drill with your fingers and minimal pressure to debur the center hole in the seat. Polishing them is the best way, but sometimes they need to have the drill technique done. It's usually the only way you can solve a slow leak after replacing the needle valve
Thanks alot for this video man. I was scratching my head thinking "man, i wonder if i should apply lapping paste onto the needle and rotate it back and forth" Then I got on here and found your video LOL! This Q-tip paste tech is everything I needed to complete my bag of carb tricks!
I took apart my generator carburetor and cleaned it thoroughly. It kept leaking gas, then i did what you said with a q-tip and drill using mothers polish for 10 seconds twice. The needle valve seat was black and now looks shiny brass just like the one in your video. No more leaking carburetor and once again a great running generator. I learned something new. Thank you!
@@greasemonkey5340 glad it helped, thanks for watching! Hopefully the video was easy to find? I tried to tag the right keywords and title the video properly
This video is a MUST SEE for anyone trying to fix an overflowing carburetor. Unfortunately, I only discovered this video after watching other videos that just take the carburetor off, clean it, blow out the jets, install a carb kit then reinstall. So on my Outboard Mercury 115HP with 4 WME carbs, I did that which is 8 hours of work to take apart the engine, pull the carbs, then re-install excluding the time to pull the boat from the lake and park it to work on, then drop the boat back into the lake. So after my first attempt the carb overflow leak quickly returned, so I figured I must have left some dirt in the carb, or maybe a piece of the new gasket broke off, hence pull the boat out and repeat this time being extra careful of dirt & gaskets. Then dropped the boat back into the lake and again the leak returned. Then I saw this video using a carb tester and valve grinding compound - never even knew about carb testers, INVALUABLE TOOL! So pulled the boat out again, pulled the carbs and did your valve grinding technique on the needle valve seat. Then tested the carb but alas it was showing a slow leak, so I repeated the valve seat grinding procedure. Then on retest, the carb held pressure perfectly - no leakage. Dropped the boat back into the lake, and one very happy boat owner. Can’t thank you enough for this video!
GREAT idea mate ! As usual detailed clip with easy to follow directions, NO nonsence just pure talent !
Thanks for watching!
I am a novice at working on small engines, I took it up as a hobby this past year being retired. I've been getting a lot of machines on stuff for free websites. As I always have I save parts. Which brings me to Having saved a lot of needle valves, now I can try a saved one to see if it works. As always GREAT video.
Thumbs up for valve lapping compound. I had polished it with metal polish and was going to try rouge before I saw this simple solution. Thanks
It works good just go slow with it obviously, once you take too much out you can't go back lol good luck!
That was the solution to many of my issues on different engines. Excellent video
I have the same problem and I will try tomorrow to fix my Generac power washer carburetor
Thanks for teaching us 😊
I've heard any kind of metal polish will work, toothpaste might even work but may take longer.
I think we all have a donar tank. LOL I have tried Brasso cleaner to some success. It isn't quite abrasive enough. Great video, I am commenting as I go. Lapping compound has worked better for me than brass cleaner. I switched about a year ago. There it is at 5:31 !!!!!! Nice work
Yea I've found it to work best, thanks for watching!
Good job. Toothpaste or Brasso also works good, may take slightly longer.
Thanks for watching!
I want to thank you i had this issue with my gt5000
And now it runs perfectly!
Great video, straight to the point. No loose teeth like Tyral fixes all
Just a chipped tooth that I'm not paying to have fixed again haha thanks for watching!
I have been using Q tips and compound to do this to outboard carbs for years Ajax scouring powder also works
Thanks for the suggestion, and thanks for watching!
I like this channel...so educative, from South Africa.
Thanks for watching!
Brasso polishing compound will work.Nice video.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video with a very clear explanation
Thank you this fixed my A35 Tomos leaky boi.
OK, I found the answer. The pin on top of the needle valve was SO firmly stuck that I thought it might have to be unscrewed or something!!!! ))))) Guess I just found the problem. Thanks again Eliminator!
I have a video on that too! ua-cam.com/video/TD3egFO1ytU/v-deo.html
This fixed my issue that has been bothering me for a couple of weeks! I even have a new (cheap) carb on order. Used Autosol and a cotton stick just as shown in the video. Thanks! 🙏
Excellent, I never thought to use lapping compound on a brass seat. Makes logically sense, often times I just put carb cleaner on q-tip and put in drill.
Thanks for watching!
Very helpful video ! Thanks for doing that. 🙏
This just saved me $30. Awesome
I done my van carb now perfect ❤❤❤
Good job.. I will follow your advice.. Jaime from Bogota Colombia...
Awesome video and great filming and explanations. Huge help for my carb dude
Verry Good tip! Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
good day Interesting video. Never ever thought about that. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Another good one buddy, for your viewers that may not have access to lapping compound do you think toothpaste or possibly baking soda or powder mixed with oil might work?
Not too sure, have never tried that! Thanks for watching!
Toothpaste is what I was thinking too. It is very slightly abrasive. I think it would be worth a try. I have some Mag polish in the closet. I think it's Mothers. That's always a good go-to polish for odd jobs. Even on paint and Plexi.
This is just a new Carburetor you might need to know most might have a little seal in it!
Don't you have to apply a little pressure to the float as simulating the fuel level pushing up on the float? Good tip. Thanks!
No, generally the weight of the float is enough to let you know you have a seal or not under 5psi, sometimes I even test them around 2.5psi and it's good enough to tell me there's a good seal and the carb won't leak. Thanks for watching!
Thanks. Great video. I have what looks like almost exactly the same carburettor and obviously you just slip the pin out that acts as a hinge, but then there's another pin (like yours) that prevents me from taking the float off. I don't want to damage anything, and I can't figure out how to proceed to remove the float and reveal the needle valve and seat. I'm going to see if I can find the answer on another vid, but if you see this and could let me know, I would really appreciate it. Cheers!
Do you think another mildly gritty compound like, say, toothpaste, would have the same effect? Just trying to think if there are other compounds that might accomplish the same thing.
Yes, I've used some stainless steel polish and it seems to work fine, like I said with the valve lap compound I'm not putting a lot of pressure, just enough to let the grit clean up the surface. I'm sure some brass polish would work fine
thank for the video,what if mine gets clogged from not using the bike for a while,,can i just spray carburator cleaner to the hose and blow it with compressor,will the needle valve be ok?thanks again.
This is a good tip with viton tip needles but older brass ones not so much. My arsenal of tools are drill bits ground flat, end mill bits, and dremel polishing bits cut at 45*. I basically go at it like cutting a new intake/exh. valve seat😆 these cheap ope carbs are not as rare and as expensive as keihins on Atv’s and bikes.
Thanks for sharing!
is the bore ( needle seat bore for the new neoprene gasket ( biscuit) in the carb for the needle seat , straight bore or tapered? can you measure it , and confirm?
Great video! Thanks!
How expensive is the Stens pressure tester Mr. Eliminator ?? Would using brass polish paste work also ??? Nice video fella.
It's quite expensive, but they work well. I'm sure you can make one using some household tools.
That is so amazing helpful video bro
Thanks for watching!
Great video 👍🏻
Thanks for watching!
Great info!! Thanks man!
Thanks for watching!
Great video thanks
Thanks for watching!
Great idea, thanks! 👍👍
Thanks for watching!
Good vid keep up the good work
Thanks for watching!
Would rubbing compound work if You don't have lapping compound?
I'm not sure as I haven't tried it, basically anything that's course would work.
good info . You have a clean and organized shop . Need to cut down on the adds ..
Unfortunately UA-cam is in charge of ad placement, wherever you see a yellow mark on the timeline is when one can play, but they don't always play. Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
What would cause fuel to flow out of an overflow hose???
Leaking needle valve
Is it possible all of my gas to leak due to a float problem except for the reserve?
thanks...very informative.....thumbs up buddy !!!
I use automotive buffing compond I do have lapping compound
@@mikehrdlicka8635 either or, the lapping compound requires less pressure and gets it done faster but if you're not careful it can really bite into the soft metal.
My problem is my carburetor needle seat doesn’t have a round head to slip in carb bowl. It has nothing to attach to. Please help
*may try this...*
The best ever❤️
How about rubbing compound?
I have used baking soda type toothpaste as valve lapping compound. Flushing with carb cleaner of course. I also use electronic cleaning swabs, they are smaller in diameter and use a felt tip instead of cotton. I have cleaned the electronic cleaning swabs and reused.
Yes anything that's gritty and polishes will work. I'm going to try toothpaste, as many have suggested it. So far, I haven't had one fail once it's been polished with the valve lap compound. But as others mentioned, you have to be careful as it's meant to be used on hardened steel and not brass.
if that compound marks the value ,just think what it doing to the seat
Yea it's what I had at the time, haven't had an issue with any, which is why I mentioned not a lot of pressure. I'm now using brass polish, but it needs to be cleaned even better.
I used metal polishing compound. The liquid kind
Yes I use that now, works excellent
😊👍
Thanks for watching!
Just assemble turn upright - bowl down and blow shouldn't get leakage.
Id just use gas on it or keep it dry not gonna ruin mine drilling it with a bit cause i probably would still think it needs a fatter rubber tip needle
You don't drill it, you're just spinning the drill with your fingers and minimal pressure to debur the center hole in the seat. Polishing them is the best way, but sometimes they need to have the drill technique done. It's usually the only way you can solve a slow leak after replacing the needle valve
@@EliminatorPerformance but then the bur inside the side of the hole would need picked out i have the tools for that
For those wondering
YES
Toothpaste will work
Thanks alot for this video man.
I was scratching my head thinking "man, i wonder if i should apply lapping paste onto the needle and rotate it back and forth"
Then I got on here and found your video LOL!
This Q-tip paste tech is everything I needed to complete my bag of carb tricks!
Sorry blow in when upside down.
? for you, and I am sure that you have no f%#k^9G clue! Would tooth paste work as well? What are your thoughts?
Absolutely no idea, would probably take longer and you'd need something gritty. Thanks for watching!
Toothpaste is much less aggressive. Just sayin!!!
May take a lot longer, depends on the toothpaste lol thanks for watching!
Just tried this 🤞 on a little jap quad hope it works these little cheap quads are doing my head in 😢