Nice video, Cinder! Would you recommend Open or Regular Golden Acrylics? I'm currently a beginner and painting with liquitex basics, but looking to upgrade. One thing I don't love about acrylics is fast drying time on the palette and the mixes drying out before you get a chance to use them all. For that alone, I'm considering switching to Open. I'm using a wet pallet and it kinda fixes that issue, but to paint gets more and more diluted on water over time, so they tend to get a bit transparent. So, I think I wouldn't mind the Open paints being a little more transparent than normal because I already have to live with watered down paints. On the other hand, almost every serious acrylic painter seems to prefer the regular Heavy Body, so I'm stuck. Sorry about the long comment, but I'm need some advice here ! hahaha Thanks
If you're coming from the liquetex basics, the next logical step is the regular Golden Heavy Body. The difference between the two products is a "night and day" kind of difference that until you experience it, it's hard to judge how you'd respond to the open colors. Also keep in mind the possible need for a spray bottle to keep your palette moistened as you work, and the relative humidity of your painting environment. I will also suggest Golden Fluid or Liquitex Soft Body if you're going out of your way to think your paints to start with.
@@cinderblockstudios I agree. I keep bouncing back and fourth between OPEN / Fluid / Heavy Body, but i'll definitely get some colors in the Fluid for that detail! And I'll probably get some glazing color in the Fluid form as well. And in the second war front, haha, between OPEN and Heavy Body, I keep thinking that I prefer wet on wet techniques more then wet on dry... I've only had the experience with Liquitex Basics and I didn't like that feel of wet paint coming in contact with the dry canvas, it seems that i'm disturbing a finish painting or something, always creating a harsh line. Because of that, my current plan (that may change again haha) is to focus my main colors in OPEN, maybe buy only a small tube of HB White and Yellow (For the max opacity when needed) and some strategic Fluid colors to supplement all. I hope that makes sense.
They should only use about a third of the quick dry chemical they put in. It would be perfect then. I prefer water soluble oils. Holbein makes I think the fastest drying water mixable oil. You can also add a drier.
I believe you mean they should only use 1/3 the extending chemical (typo?) I've used water soluable oils myself, but I can honestly say that they're not quite the same as either acrylics or regular oils. If anything they're a VERY separate painting medium in many ways.
Hey Ben, very nice review! Please let me borrow your wisdom :D. So far my dream palette of OPEN is this: Cad. Yellow Primrose 5 oz --- Pyrrole Red 5 oz --- Ultramarine Blue 5 oz --- Phthalo Blue 2 (Green S.) 2 oz --- Yellow Oxide 5 oz --- Transparent Red Iron Oxide 2 oz --- Burnt Umber 5 oz --- Titanium White 8 oz....OBS 1: are those tube paint sizes well distributed? Do i need the 5 oz tubes for Cad Yellow and Pyrrole red? OBS 2: I'm in a middle of a debate between Yellow Oxide vs Yellow Ochre, and I find the Open Acrylics Yellow Oxide more opaque and more greenish, which is good in my view (for mixing greens and making neutrals in general, been more opaque). ....OBS 3: The reasoning behind the Tr. Red Iron Oxide is because I wanted a orange-ish earth color and the possibility for easy glazing was nice to have, but i'm not 100% sure on the TRIO yet... The other closest contestants to substitute the TRIO would be: Red Oxide, Mars Yellow, Burnt Sienna, Nickel Azo Yellow, but I'm open to suggestions. What would be your choice substitute the TRIO? Thanks a lot!!! God bless you and your YT channel 👏👏👏
Depending your how you work and you're style of painting I'd say you can totally just get 2oz tubes (and maybe just a 5oz of white) to start, then upgrade as you need to. No need to invest too early, if you don't know how much you'll need/use. Color wise, I'd personally track on another yellow besides the primrose. I've got a tube of that one myself, and while useful for mixing, isn't useful for the vibrancy you would need for skies and foliage for natural landscape work. I'd snag a Cad. Yellow Medium or Diarylide to supplement and give you a wider range of mixing. As for the Oxide vs Ochre. The colors are VERY similar and I've actually never really played with yellow oxide nearly as much as I have the ochre. I actually think that if you're getting the Umber, you don't need the ochre at all. Just replace it's spot with one of the other two yellows I mentioned and you'll be able to mix a color that looks just like either. When you mix remember to utilize your complementary colors. The complements/opposites, that mix to a brown will give you a wider range of mixing than some of the more "convenience" colors you might pick up.
Excellent review. Just what we needed to know about Golden_open paint. Your reviews are very clear and well thought out. Thanks.
Really helpful. Thanks. Seem to be good for glazing.
I love your videos friend, I also love your artwork, thanks for sharing everything you do, have a great day! Peace and God bless!
Golden Opens are amazing. Particularly for wildlife and nature art.
A very well thought out video with great presentation! This was incredibly helpful for my research into paints
Thanks for the review
for the price i think i'll pass as well. the info on the opaqueness is very helpful tks
Nice video, Cinder! Would you recommend Open or Regular Golden Acrylics? I'm currently a beginner and painting with liquitex basics, but looking to upgrade. One thing I don't love about acrylics is fast drying time on the palette and the mixes drying out before you get a chance to use them all. For that alone, I'm considering switching to Open. I'm using a wet pallet and it kinda fixes that issue, but to paint gets more and more diluted on water over time, so they tend to get a bit transparent. So, I think I wouldn't mind the Open paints being a little more transparent than normal because I already have to live with watered down paints. On the other hand, almost every serious acrylic painter seems to prefer the regular Heavy Body, so I'm stuck. Sorry about the long comment, but I'm need some advice here ! hahaha Thanks
If you're coming from the liquetex basics, the next logical step is the regular Golden Heavy Body. The difference between the two products is a "night and day" kind of difference that until you experience it, it's hard to judge how you'd respond to the open colors. Also keep in mind the possible need for a spray bottle to keep your palette moistened as you work, and the relative humidity of your painting environment.
I will also suggest Golden Fluid or Liquitex Soft Body if you're going out of your way to think your paints to start with.
@@cinderblockstudios I agree. I keep bouncing back and fourth between OPEN / Fluid / Heavy Body, but i'll definitely get some colors in the Fluid for that detail! And I'll probably get some glazing color in the Fluid form as well. And in the second war front, haha, between OPEN and Heavy Body, I keep thinking that I prefer wet on wet techniques more then wet on dry... I've only had the experience with Liquitex Basics and I didn't like that feel of wet paint coming in contact with the dry canvas, it seems that i'm disturbing a finish painting or something, always creating a harsh line. Because of that, my current plan (that may change again haha) is to focus my main colors in OPEN, maybe buy only a small tube of HB White and Yellow (For the max opacity when needed) and some strategic Fluid colors to supplement all. I hope that makes sense.
and use distilled water for paint and wet palette or you might incur mold...
They should only use about a third of the quick dry chemical they put in. It would be perfect then. I prefer water soluble oils. Holbein makes I think the fastest drying water mixable oil. You can also add a drier.
I believe you mean they should only use 1/3 the extending chemical (typo?)
I've used water soluable oils myself, but I can honestly say that they're not quite the same as either acrylics or regular oils. If anything they're a VERY separate painting medium in many ways.
Hey Ben, very nice review! Please let me borrow your wisdom :D. So far my dream palette of OPEN is this: Cad. Yellow Primrose 5 oz --- Pyrrole Red 5 oz --- Ultramarine Blue 5 oz --- Phthalo Blue 2 (Green S.) 2 oz --- Yellow Oxide 5 oz --- Transparent Red Iron Oxide 2 oz --- Burnt Umber 5 oz --- Titanium White 8 oz....OBS 1: are those tube paint sizes well distributed? Do i need the 5 oz tubes for Cad Yellow and Pyrrole red? OBS 2: I'm in a middle of a debate between Yellow Oxide vs Yellow Ochre, and I find the Open Acrylics Yellow Oxide more opaque and more greenish, which is good in my view (for mixing greens and making neutrals in general, been more opaque). ....OBS 3: The reasoning behind the Tr. Red Iron Oxide is because I wanted a orange-ish earth color and the possibility for easy glazing was nice to have, but i'm not 100% sure on the TRIO yet... The other closest contestants to substitute the TRIO would be: Red Oxide, Mars Yellow, Burnt Sienna, Nickel Azo Yellow, but I'm open to suggestions. What would be your choice substitute the TRIO? Thanks a lot!!! God bless you and your YT channel 👏👏👏
Depending your how you work and you're style of painting I'd say you can totally just get 2oz tubes (and maybe just a 5oz of white) to start, then upgrade as you need to. No need to invest too early, if you don't know how much you'll need/use.
Color wise, I'd personally track on another yellow besides the primrose. I've got a tube of that one myself, and while useful for mixing, isn't useful for the vibrancy you would need for skies and foliage for natural landscape work. I'd snag a Cad. Yellow Medium or Diarylide to supplement and give you a wider range of mixing.
As for the Oxide vs Ochre. The colors are VERY similar and I've actually never really played with yellow oxide nearly as much as I have the ochre. I actually think that if you're getting the Umber, you don't need the ochre at all. Just replace it's spot with one of the other two yellows I mentioned and you'll be able to mix a color that looks just like either.
When you mix remember to utilize your complementary colors. The complements/opposites, that mix to a brown will give you a wider range of mixing than some of the more "convenience" colors you might pick up.
@@cinderblockstudios gotcha, thanks for the tips Cinder. 👌
Opacity can be increased by mixing in up to 50% marble dust.
Watched another video where someone used a blow dryer to dry up her golden open painting.
Speed drying like that can be problematic as it can cause distortions in the paint surface and weaken the bond.
Product Review? But where is product?! Love talk? Ok. Next talk-video without me.
showed a little around the 1 minute mark...not quite sure what else you were looking for though