Thank YOU! I'm refurbishing and repairing all the broken and old stuff on my '99 Chev S10 that I just purchased. I love this little truck. It has over 200k miles on it and starts up first time during the winter! I also plan to put a camper top on the bed. Appreciate your info.
Excellent diagnostic and video ! Electrical issues can be the most frustrating ! Step by step back to source ... well done. Really appreciate your time on this ... I have a 2000 GMC Sonoma, nearly identical to the S-10 ... including under body rust (Maine). Anytime all or both lights no work, first culprit is usually a ground or fuse .
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you! I had an issue where I kept blowing fuses when I put my truck in reverse. I checked wiring and changed bulbs. I finally changed the backup light switch and determined that the switch was defective. The problem was that the new backup light switch would not work. Sure enough right out of the box the switch was defective! So I bought a new switch from a different store and manufacture and it now works!
Always test new switches with the current of the bulb. Connect a backup bulb to the battery and the switch. Defective new switches can have high resistance and test 'good' with a low current continuity tester. When high current is applied through a bulb, the switch's resistance will quickly go up due to heat and reduce the voltage to near zero.
The bigger lesson to be learned is stop buying parts at Autozone & O'Reilly, unless it's just to get you home. They cost less because they are not tested accurately. Buy from a Mom & Pop or your local Napa auto store and get OEM parts. I've had to learn this the hard way
I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado my dome nor my reverse lights worked I replaced “TBC 2A” (Fuse) on the interior fuse box located on the driver side it’s a TRUCK BODY CONTROLLER also, make sure to check “TBC 2B” it’s a truck body controller as well. This fixed my dome and reverse lights problem.
My 2002 S10 was doing this aswell. Turns out it was the trailer light connection. Was just somehow screwing up the currents. Glad it was something stupid but after cleaning all the grounds and stuff out was kind of frustrating. Just wanted to share this with everyone incase you do everything he says (which is good anyway) but still have no luck
One thing never use sound to test ohms it can lead you the wrong way in troubleshooting, it would have, but you had another new one to swap. Look at the numbers see what they are. Should have took ohms readings on both and compared them
Anyone needing to know what the blue wire is at the drivers rear of the truck is for trailer wiring only . Don’t connect the light blue wire . Make sure your trailer harness has the ground wires connected on both sides of the frame ! The light blue wire will confuse you and doesn’t need connected unless you are using a trailer !
wow!!!!! got the same problem with my 99 s10 for the past year couldn't figure out why and did get a new back up switch but from advance auto and check it all with no luck so i just said F** it so will be getting another new switch to see if i get lucky
I've got a 2003 S10 LS extended cab and the ass and got hit I've got it all fixed I put my tail lights in and long as the headlights are not on my brake light works just fine but soon as I turn my run lights on and hit my brakes my driver brake light will go out and soon as I let off the brake pedal it comes back on
Start out right!!! Run a Live ground Wire Right back From the battery is best way , Vehicles in the "Rust Belt" Corrode away after a few winters. no Offense Eddie but in Winter Salty MN Its a common Occurance & sometimes the Wires in the Jackets/Colored Rubberized Covering will disintegrate also. That in Itself is a pain in The ass Gremlin to Find
1993 s-10 5 speed stick . No back ups and did sensor but didn't think to test it first . Also I didn't realize that there so many grounds to check . I'm in Arizona so its pretty dry out here but need to check anyway Thanks
No, if only one side works, more than likely you have a broken/corroded wire or bad ground. Start by replacing or testing light bulb first... Good luck!
If you have automatic transmission, then more than likely is going to be your Neutral Safety Switch, do some research and make a decision based on that, but from experience, yes this Neutral safety switch will cause this problem and many other…. Good luck!
Another bad product from Auto Zone. The BS'ers behind the counter are known for bad parts and/or selling the wrong parts. Idiots, "Oh no, that's not what you want, this is what you want."
Thank YOU! I'm refurbishing and repairing all the broken and old stuff on my '99 Chev S10 that I just purchased. I love this little truck. It has over 200k miles on it and starts up first time during the winter! I also plan to put a camper top on the bed. Appreciate your info.
Thank you for the video! No doubt it’s frustrating, but no telling how many people you helped along the way going through such a process and sharing!
I was about to put a toggle switch and have to turn on my reverse lights through a switch. Thank you again.
Excellent diagnostic and video ! Electrical issues can be the most frustrating ! Step by step back to source ... well done. Really appreciate your time on this ... I have a 2000 GMC Sonoma, nearly identical to the S-10 ... including under body rust (Maine). Anytime all or both lights no work, first culprit is usually a ground or fuse .
Glad it helped, thanks for watching!
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you! I had an issue where I kept blowing fuses when I put my truck in reverse. I checked wiring and changed bulbs. I finally changed the backup light switch and determined that the switch was defective. The problem was that the new backup light switch would not work. Sure enough right out of the box the switch was defective! So I bought a new switch from a different store and manufacture and it now works!
Glad to help
Always test new switches with the current of the bulb. Connect a backup bulb to the battery and the switch.
Defective new switches can have high resistance and test 'good' with a low current continuity tester. When high current is applied through a bulb, the switch's resistance will quickly go up due to heat and reduce the voltage to near zero.
LETS JUST ALL CALL IT WHAT IT IS… “ CHEAP CHINESE CRAP” !
Thanks for the video,as I’m having this issue with my 98 s10.
Thank you so Much from Québec , save me alot of time 😀
The bigger lesson to be learned is stop buying parts at Autozone & O'Reilly, unless it's just to get you home. They cost less because they are not tested accurately. Buy from a Mom & Pop or your local Napa auto store and get OEM parts. I've had to learn this the hard way
I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado my dome nor my reverse lights worked I replaced “TBC 2A” (Fuse) on the interior fuse box located on the driver side it’s a TRUCK BODY CONTROLLER also, make sure to check “TBC 2B” it’s a truck body controller as well. This fixed my dome and reverse lights problem.
Great video have the same problem on my truck same manual and I guess I'm going to go clean some grounds
Right on
Well done.
My 2002 S10 was doing this aswell. Turns out it was the trailer light connection. Was just somehow screwing up the currents. Glad it was something stupid but after cleaning all the grounds and stuff out was kind of frustrating. Just wanted to share this with everyone incase you do everything he says (which is good anyway) but still have no luck
🤙
One thing never use sound to test ohms it can lead you the wrong way in troubleshooting, it would have, but you had another new one to swap. Look at the numbers see what they are. Should have took ohms readings on both and compared them
Thanks for the info Eddie you're so helpful bro you're cool
Good hands on video
The guy with the missing tooth had me rolling!!😂😂😂
Uhmm?
@@FastEddieQ 5:06
His funny as hell😂😂😂
FYI all, a pinched trailer wire between the spare wheel will cause similar symptoms.
Anyone needing to know what the blue wire is at the drivers rear of the truck is for trailer wiring only . Don’t connect the light blue wire . Make sure your trailer harness has the ground wires connected on both sides of the frame ! The light blue wire will confuse you and doesn’t need connected unless you are using a trailer !
wow!!!!! got the same problem with my 99 s10 for the past year couldn't figure out why and did get a new back up switch but from advance auto and check it all with no luck so i just said F** it so will be getting another new switch to see if i get lucky
Got it fix
Hope video helps
Will be getting one in the morning thanks for the insight on this truck is a pain in my A**s
Good luck 🍀
Glad to help
Thanks a lot !!!
Thank you for your comment
Yes, it’s very similar to the one I installed, if not the same...
I've got a 2003 S10 LS extended cab and the ass and got hit I've got it all fixed I put my tail lights in and long as the headlights are not on my brake light works just fine but soon as I turn my run lights on and hit my brakes my driver brake light will go out and soon as I let off the brake pedal it comes back on
You might need a dual filament bulb. Check your bulb
Thank you!!!!
So is the b/u switch located on the transmission or under the dash inside the pickup? On my 2000 chevy s10 pickup 4.3 automatic.
Mine is manual and is located at transmission. Automatic I am not sure… thinking under dash???
Start out right!!! Run a Live ground Wire Right back From the battery is best way , Vehicles in the "Rust Belt" Corrode away after a few winters. no Offense Eddie but in Winter Salty MN Its a common Occurance & sometimes the Wires in the Jackets/Colored Rubberized Covering will disintegrate also. That in Itself is a pain in The ass Gremlin to Find
Very true
1993 s-10 5 speed stick . No back ups and did sensor but didn't think to test it first . Also I didn't realize that there so many grounds to check . I'm in Arizona so its pretty dry out here but need to check anyway Thanks
Those damn switches always go out i have been through many how many have you been through asking because they keep denying their part is crap
Absolutely... they always go bad for some reason
Would my 98 2.2 automatic have a back up switch
Would this be the same case if just one side works and not the other?
No, if only one side works, more than likely you have a broken/corroded wire or bad ground. Start by replacing or testing light bulb first... Good luck!
What color are the reverse light wires. I bought an s10 with caddy lights and I can’t find the wires that feed the reverse lights.
Rob23.... you should have green and black at the light bulb connector and yellow, brown and black at stop and turn signals
Green and black for back up lights
I have a 97 Chevy suburban will the back up switch be on the same side as yours?
parales03, yes it would be
Fast Eddie where exactly. I was under the suburban and checked all over the passenger transmission side and couldn’t find it.
parales03 , I believe on you truck, the Neutral/park Safety switch is where your reverse light is wire to, check fuses first....
Yes siiir
What about automatic trans is it the same
No it isn’t
@@FastEddieQ what's the difference?
If you have automatic transmission, then more than likely is going to be your Neutral Safety Switch, do some research and make a decision based on that, but from experience, yes this Neutral safety switch will cause this problem and many other…. Good luck!
Switch is mounted on transmission.
@@FastEddieQ thank you for your time. And may God bless your endeavors. 🙏🙏🙏
Another bad product from Auto Zone. The BS'ers behind the counter are known for bad parts and/or selling the wrong parts. Idiots, "Oh no, that's not what you want, this is what you want."
Thank you for your struggle got mine changed out and fixed the problem but mine was bad the little ball was stuck
Turn off your radio Holmes c'mon brah
Sorry about that…. And very true gets old
Automatic?
Manual
Uuuum.... wiring issue more than likely
Made in China bro😅
I can't stand your radio it makes this unwatchable Jesus christ
My apologies…