Hello i have a solex at my house for about 5 years that needs a lot of work not been sure if i could restore it but with your great videos that you show so clearly i am going to try it so glad i found you on youtube thank you so very much.
Hi there. Thanks for your comment. I‘m glad you like. Just get started, step by step and you‘ll get into it. Good luck and have fun. Greets from Switzerland
If I may give you an advice. Try to keep as much of the original parts as possible and refurbish them. Repro parts almost always need additional work to make them fit and are mostöy of bad quality.
@@JustbuildTW Hello thank you for the advice everything seems good except for cables and tyres tubes i will follow you along step by step really interesting project great to have you to learn from thanks again.
Thank you for your detailed comment . Superb, that you picked up the used measuring technics and like them. Yep, the bike is on the road again and continues to make history. All the best to u.
Genialer Film, saubere Arbeit und tolles Resultat. Schade stirbt der Verbrenner in Zukunft aus und damit auch das können vieler Mechaniker wenns um Reparaturen an Motoren geht. Einfach genial Deine Arbeit👍👍💪💪
@@BensCinema Vielen Dank für die netten Worte. Verbrennermotoren werden von der Technik her in Zukunft etwas ganz Besonderes sein. Wer das Wissen hat, sollte es bei Möglichkeit an die nächsten Generationen weitergeben.
Many thanks. This is certainly not the engine you want to buy as a good basis for a restoration. However, it shows what is possible even with a complete blockage. I was surprised, that the crankshaft was still in that of a good shape. Thanks
Great work, I'm green with envy at your workshop facilities! Small note: All paper gaskets, as well as cylinder base and head gaskets, are always installed without sealants such as Hylomar or Curil K2.
Hi there. Thanks for your comment and compliment. However, I‘m a 100% with you regarding the sealant. The habit to use it is coming probably from pure experience that comes along after many projects with different sealing situations, where the paper seal was not doing the job a 100%. Maybe due to the wrong hardness, thickness or uneven surfaces where a perfect adaption of the sealing is difficult,require too much torque or it would become to thick and therefore change the dimensions of the sealed unit in a unwanted degree. Bottom line is, if you have a proper sealant to support the paper gasket, I never saw a disadvantage despite the fact that retorquing is required. I use renzoplast that is resistant against fuels, oils and other chemical substances, never hardens out and is good up to and over 300 degrees C. Thanks for coming up with this as it is an interesting topic in general
@@JustbuildTW Hi, thank you very much for the detailed answer. I agree mostly. I have never had to support a paper seal with an additional sealant. I work on old motorcycles and it has always worked. Even on my Velosolex (built in 1954) everything fits, assuming good sealing surfaces of course. Have fun!
Hi, hope it helps, I‘m glad you like it. There is also a movie of the complete teardown. Keep as much of the original parts as possible…..even if it takes time to refurbish them. Good luck to you, greetings to 🇧🇷
Great vigilance of you😀FP1 is the queen in my workshop with all the accessories from back then, there is nothing one could not accomplish with it. The luthy LF10 is fantastic looking, precise and strong as hell built machine. Do you have good documentation about it? Thanks for your subscription and comment👍
@@JustbuildTW hi , the luthy was a rare find ! In many decades I had never seen one , having moved many 1000,s of tonnes of machine tools around the globe I grew a very special fondness for the Swiss build quality & usable design. This mill was bought new and used by a very skilled Italian man who lived in south London.I bought it from his grandson through a mutual friend . It was in a filthy condition after many years of being sat unused. Sadly I have little information on the machine , I have renewed the drive belts , changed all the oils and guessed the grades. I’m waiting for a few parts to complete the re-wire and I can make the first cuts .I have searched for an FP1 for over twenty years but keep missing them , the luthy is also very nice , I have written to the LUTHY company ( en française ) but no reply .
Not necessary in this paricular situation, as I have measured precisely and found a significant oversize situation (bearing/housing) where securing is not necessary according to the tables of international standards! This is a matter of tolerances on which you have to measure into the 1/1000. Bearing has been in the fridge, as well as the crankshaft before installation. Crankcase heated up in the oven. It‘s not the first engine I build. By the way, have a look at the video about pressing in bearings I made. How and when it‘s necessary and when not to secure. It‘s all about the particular situation- therefore you can‘t say in general- that is not reliable and therefore not ok. If you have a worn out case, it‘s different. Bottom line is, you have to know what you have to know what you get. Thanks
What an outstanding, impressive, impecable and overwhelming work of art you have done, CONGRATULATIONS , most kind of you for sharing it with us, please keep up the good work, blessings to you and your love ones, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres.
Hi Jesus Torres. Thanks for your warming words. I‘m happy my video reached you all the way to beautiful Puerto Rico 🇵🇷. It‘s a delight to see you appreciating my work. All the best to you and keep enjoying life.
Thanks for your comment. The inner bearing ring has been supported backside by a specially for the job manufactured tube to support when pressing the shaft in.It is shown in the end movie if I can recall correctly. What u here is the resonance from a poor press. Thanks
Schöne saubere Restauration, alles hervorragend ausgeführt, wie neu. 100 Punkte. Nur eine Frage: Der Kupplungsdeckel aus Nachproduktion war Scheixxe, klar, aber der Originale besteht aus Aluminium. Wäre es nicht schöner gewesen, die Löcher mit Aluminium über zu Schweißen bzw. in das große Loch ein ALU-Passstück zu stecken und zu Verschweißen? Die Naht später Beischleifen. Ich habe es damals bei meiner NSU 251 OSL mit dem Seitendeckel auch so gemacht. Danach zum Glätten des Deckels das Prozedere mit dem Kunstharz.
Hallo, danke für deinen Kommentar und das Kompliment. Gute Frage betreffend dem Kupplungsgehäuse-eine heissdiskutiertes Thema. Leider ist es kein Alu, sondern eine Art Gusseisen. Gusseisen lässt sich je nach Werkstoffzusammensetzung zwar schon schweissen, aber es bleibt schwierig wegen dem Silizium, Phosphor und Schwefel. Grundsätzlich habe ich TIG, MIG oder Hartlöten zur Verfügung. Da ich aber nicht genau wusste, was von welchem wieviel vorhanden ist, habe ich mich für einen anderen Weg entschieden. Zudem, ist die Wandstärke bei dieser Glocke dünner als dünn. Ich habe mir überlegt auf dem Abbruch eine Glocke für Testzwecke zu besorgen, um daran das beste Verfahren zu ermitteln. Mal sehen ob ich noch dazu komme😉
@@JustbuildTW Also dann hast du das Beste gemacht, was man(n) machen kann. Der Rest ist "So was von Geil restauriert" Besser geht nicht (zumal die Velosolex nie viel kostete). Heute liegen die knapp unter dem Goldpreis. Mein letztes Projekt war eine alte Zweitakt-Vespa - die wollte ich immer als Junge haben, heute bin ich 70 und habe vor zwei Jahren eine bekommen. War viel Arbeit, aber nun habe ich schon 6000 Km damit gefahren und mein letztes Motorrad (Yamaha 1100 CC) verkauft. ;-)
Yes, but stick to the original once as much as you can. If possible even get e spare engine from a junkyard. Repro parts are often of bad quality. Good luck
Cela me fait sourire : ce n'est pas un moteur de Formule 1, mais un des moteurs les plus rustiques de la production française. Vitesse maximale 30 km/h, dans un bruit très discret que je n'ai pas entendu dans cette vidéo.
The thing about the noise is true. The discreet noise however is achieved when the whole exhaust is installed. In the movie it is running without. Yesterday I had the first ride on the street and the sound was fantastic or as you say discreet 👍Thanks
@@chrisenright7003 Thanks for your comment. We discussed this already here. Basically you can weld everything but the existance of silicon, carbon, sulfur and phosphorus within the cast iron in conjunction with the fact, not knowing the exact composition makes the outcome unknown. Telling to weld without welding is easy. On top, the material there is thinner than thin…..which makes it even more challenging. Thanks
Simple? Have you seen the gear train and the injection system? Not to mention gaining access to the pistons. They were so complex they had to be removed for overhaul or repair and sent back to Napier. In locomotives they did far less track damage than steam engines, but they were far more expensive to maintain than straight engines. The "small" Deltic used a 9 cylinder engine, the full power ones used 2 18 cylinder ones. There was never a three cylinder version, the cost of the crank and gearing to drive just three cylinders would have been hopelessly uneconomic.
Thanks for your comment. Actually JB weld is available over here and it would have been a no brainer with JB. As I used to work in the past a lot with fiber glass and vacuum processing, I had everything available and ready. However, it was/is more work for sure.
I admire your problem but don’t have a solution for it😉What Solex is it? Selling? From which continent are u coming from? Greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭
Eigentlich braucht es für die Lager und das Einsetzen der Kurbelwelle keine Presse. Gehäuse erwärmen, Lager kalt, fällt das fast von selber rein. Dann das Lager leicht erwärmen und die Kurbelwelle ins Eisfach und auch die Welle fällt in das Lager. Wenn man es macht, wie hier gezeigt, hält das meistens nicht sehr lange.
Danke für deinen Kommentar. Das stimmt so nur leider nicht im Allgemeinen. Je nach Übermass reicht das Wärmen/Kühlen nicht aus. Hier gilt eben dies präzise zum messen bevor einfach gemacht wird. Der Sitz kann jedoch schon abgetragen sein, dann kommst du ohne Presse aus, obwohl du damit auch in diesem Fall nichts kaputt machst. Die Kurbelwelle bekommst du ohne Presse beim Solex nie ins Lager gefügt. Wichtig ist natürlich, den inneren Lagerring beim Einpressen von hinten zu stützen-dafür habe ich einzig eine Hülse gefertigt. Sonst ist das Lager hinüber bevor du das erste Mal um den Weihnachtsbaum fährst. Guck dir das extra Video übers Einpressen von Lagern an. Da werden die Situationen mit Pressen/Kleben, Erwärmen, Kühlen, Messen und deren Toleranzen erklärt. Das allerwichtigste beim Einpressen ist, das alles in der Achse fluchtet, sonst geht der Sitz im nu kaputt. Viel Spass beim Schrauben
Zusatz: Übrigens, das Solex Kurbelgehäuse musste damals bei Lagerschaden/Geräuschen komplett getauscht werden, inkl. Lager und Kurbelwelle da hier mit hohem Übermass des Lagers/Welle gearbeitet wurde. Das ist z.B bei einem Maxi E50 Motor anders.
Danke für die Ausführliche Antwort! Ich hab schon einige Solexmotoren überholt aber wirklich nie eine Presse gebraucht. Auch bei Simson kommt man ohne aus. Wichtig ist das Messen natürlich trotzdem! Sollte auch keine Kritik sein, kann ja jeder machen wie er meint!
Gerne. Es gibt viele Wege zum Ziel, das ist so. Ist alt schwierig pauschal zu sagen wie es gemacht wird, da jeder Motor immer auch ein Einzelstück ist, vorallem bei älteren Produktionen wo die Massgenauigkeiten noch nicht die selben sind/waren wie heute. Oder aber über die Jahre wurde schon reichlich gemurkst , was die Herangehensweise wieder leicht anders gestaltet. Interessante Diskussion aber auf jeden Fall 👍
Обычно подшипники коленвала должны быть открыты с двух сторон.Так через них проходит масло к сальникам,иначе они сгорят.Ты не знал об этом?Еще нужно было разобраться,почему не смог собрать с новой крышкой-все измерить,посчитать,где какие шайбы снять или добавить и тд.
That depends on the engine construction and oil lubrication system! Not the case here, as the oil only comes from one side. The other side is completely sealed off anyway. With the closed bearing side you improve the lubrication, as the oil doesn’t spin through. It also widely depends on whether you have the bearing running in an oil bath like on four strokes. Second, I don’t know what you mean with new cover/washers? They are exactly where they need to be and in the right amount as measured to have the things where they need to be.
And by the way, the crankcase seal on this engine doesn’t touch the crankshaft at all, there is no friction at that point, as it seals off on the other side together with the roller (outside of the crankcase), and that part is greased. Not every engine is same same. It takes a lot of time and brainstorming to first understand the engine before you even start touching the first tool. Thanks
@@JustbuildTW Если у тебя в 2Т сальник не смазывается с другой стороны маслом из другого узла,то смазка к нему попадает только со стороны картера,через подшипник.Поэтому он должен быть открытым с двух сторон. Про крышку-у тебя первая крышка не села до конца,и ты не стал разбираться в причине,просто заменил на старую,которую клеил.
@@JustbuildTW Согласен,в каждой конструкции свои нюансы.Но эти Велосолексы явно создавал наркоман после дозы)).Что двигатель,что карбюратор-это что-невероятное))
As I said, the system is closed on one side and, the seal has no touch to the turning crankshaft, so no lubrication needed there as no friction exists. The roller seals against the seal only for dirt from the roller, but not against oil-that’s the design of the engine. The oil is kept back further up in the housing after a flat seal and the shim before the bearing…..What first lid (minute?)?? I havn’t used any glue and I havn’t used anything old and everything sits where it should as I have measured the depth of each seat. I really recommend you to study the first generation of the velosolex 3800er engine througly to see the details. If you wish, send me a clear drawing of the points your questioning so we talk about the same and I can proof facts. Such details are difficult here. Thanks
Thanks for your comment. The little wire that should be there to hold the cable in place is not on the ignition cable itself but there is a sleeve over the cable around that area to make sure that wire never intrudes into the ignition cable itself. It shall be fixed to that little hook with something that doesn‘t meld. In the years back then it was truly fixed with a piece of stainless steel cable. Thanks and all the best.
Thanks for your input. Your comment is interesting as I did some research on this at an earlier stage of my project. On most of the leaflets back from the sixties , the solex cylinder seems to be black? I don‘t know whether they had painted them, or if the cast iron was coming with some color additives? Thanks
@@JustbuildTW Les cylindres ainsi que les culasses n'on jamais été peints sur toutes les séries de Solex. Les cylindres sont en fonte brut car a l'époque aucun traitements ne tenais.
La vidéo est superbe, mais il y a quelques petites erreurs de montage, aussi les vis platinés de fabrication asiatique de très mauvaise qualité d'une durée de vie très courte.
Thanks for your comment. Since I don't know the exact alloy of the cast iron, it is difficult to define the correct application of the welding process. I assume that the carbon content is too high (>4%) and the weld would not be clean and would therefore become brittle. If I had this information, TIG welding could be considered, but only if the corresponding heat process was followed. Do you know the exact material composition of this engine?
Might be the case for this project! However it‘s more likely to achieve same same results if working on more sophisticated projects as you keep the standard. That‘s how I work. One must not like it.
Absolut Wunderschön! Was für ein Spass hat das gemacht, es zu machen und jetzt teilen. Oscarverleihung 2025
Danke, schön hat es gefallen! Ein Motor wieder zum Leben zu erwecken ist eine Genugtuung.
Tom you're fantastic! Advanced work from any point of view. Thanks a lot for the video!!!
Hi, thank you for your comment, time and compliment. It’s my pleasure for sure. All the best from Switzerland 🇨🇭
Hello i have a solex at my house for about 5 years that needs a lot of work not been sure if i could restore it but with your great videos that you show so clearly i am going to try it so glad i found you on youtube thank you so very much.
Hi there. Thanks for your comment. I‘m glad you like. Just get started, step by step and you‘ll get into it. Good luck and have fun. Greets from Switzerland
If I may give you an advice. Try to keep as much of the original parts as possible and refurbish them. Repro parts almost always need additional work to make them fit and are mostöy of bad quality.
@@JustbuildTW Hello thank you for the advice everything seems good except for cables and tyres tubes i will follow you along step by step really interesting project great to have you to learn from thanks again.
This is called: reviving a legend!! Well done to you and we also learn a lot about metrology 👍👍👏👏
Thank you for your detailed comment . Superb, that you picked up the used measuring technics and like them. Yep, the bike is on the road again and continues to make history. All the best to u.
Genialer Film, saubere Arbeit und tolles Resultat. Schade stirbt der Verbrenner in Zukunft aus und damit auch das können vieler Mechaniker wenns um Reparaturen an Motoren geht.
Einfach genial Deine Arbeit👍👍💪💪
@@BensCinema Vielen Dank für die netten Worte. Verbrennermotoren werden von der Technik her in Zukunft etwas ganz Besonderes sein. Wer das Wissen hat, sollte es bei Möglichkeit an die nächsten Generationen weitergeben.
👍wunderbar, auch ich hatte in den 60er Jahren mal eine weiße Velo Solex.
Weiss war rarer und delux-schwarz eher standard. Danke für deinen Kommentar👍
Un vrai plaisir ! Quelle précision !! Un peu compliqué ce moteur, mais ça marchait super bien !!!
Many thanks. This is certainly not the engine you want to buy as a good basis for a restoration. However, it shows what is possible even with a complete blockage. I was surprised, that the crankshaft was still in that of a good shape. Thanks
I loved my first Velosolex so much, 1970, age 15...🤩👍
Great Memories, thanks for sharing. 👍
Great work, I'm green with envy at your workshop facilities! Small note: All paper gaskets, as well as cylinder base and head gaskets, are always installed without sealants such as Hylomar or Curil K2.
Hi there. Thanks for your comment and compliment. However, I‘m a 100% with you regarding the sealant. The habit to use it is coming probably from pure experience that comes along after many projects with different sealing situations, where the paper seal was not doing the job a 100%. Maybe due to the wrong hardness, thickness or uneven surfaces where a perfect adaption of the sealing is difficult,require too much torque or it would become to thick and therefore change the dimensions of the sealed unit in a unwanted degree. Bottom line is, if you have a proper sealant to support the paper gasket, I never saw a disadvantage despite the fact that retorquing is required. I use renzoplast that is resistant against fuels, oils and other chemical substances, never hardens out and is good up to and over 300 degrees C. Thanks for coming up with this as it is an interesting topic in general
@@JustbuildTW Hi, thank you very much for the detailed answer. I agree mostly. I have never had to support a paper seal with an additional sealant. I work on old motorcycles and it has always worked. Even on my Velosolex (built in 1954) everything fits, assuming good sealing surfaces of course. Have fun!
FENOMENALO RESTAURACIJA ,ZADIVLJEN SAM...CDLICNO,ODLICNO...
Many thanks for your comment and compliment. It‘s surely motivating and a joy to get these feedbacks. I‘m glad you like it 👍
Ola, tenho um motor igual. Logo vou restaurar e com certeza seu vídeo vai ser meu parâmetro . Obrigado 🇧🇷
Hi, hope it helps, I‘m glad you like it. There is also a movie of the complete teardown. Keep as much of the original parts as possible…..even if it takes time to refurbish them. Good luck to you, greetings to 🇧🇷
@@JustbuildTW thanks, hugs !
Piękna i profesjonalna praca , gratuluję i pozdrawiam
Many thanks. I’m glad you like it. All the best
I love two wheelers , then I saw the FP1….❤….subscribed .I am just rebuilding a LUTHY LF10 Swiss mill.
Great vigilance of you😀FP1 is the queen in my workshop with all the accessories from back then, there is nothing one could not accomplish with it. The luthy LF10 is fantastic looking, precise and strong as hell built machine. Do you have good documentation about it? Thanks for your subscription and comment👍
@@JustbuildTW hi , the luthy was a rare find ! In many decades I had never seen one , having moved many 1000,s of tonnes of machine tools around the globe I grew a very special fondness for the Swiss build quality & usable design.
This mill was bought new and used by a very skilled Italian man who lived in south London.I bought it from his grandson through a mutual friend .
It was in a filthy condition after many years of being sat unused.
Sadly I have little information on the machine , I have renewed the drive belts , changed all the oils and guessed the grades.
I’m waiting for a few parts to complete the re-wire and I can make the first cuts .I have searched for an FP1 for over twenty years but keep missing them , the luthy is also very nice , I have written to the LUTHY company ( en française ) but no reply .
Very neat job! Congrats!
Thank you very much
Je me suis revu quand j'avais 14ans. Belle restauration
Nice imaginations. When I started it, the smell reminded me of myself, when I was 14 working on a puch…..priceless! Thanks for commenting
Top result, well done!
Many thanks and thanks for watching.
I wish I had this tutorial 40 years ago!!
40 years too late😎
Your an absolute perfectionist 🙈🙈
Thank you for your comment. Just trying to be precise. Hope you liked it. Thanks
Superbe vidéo!!! un grand merci
Very welcome, I’m glad you like it
Wow. Very nice work sir
Thank you, I‘m glad you like it
You didn't secure the bearing at 7:00. The bearing should be heated along with the housing, and the cold crankshaft should be inserted.
Not necessary in this paricular situation, as I have measured precisely and found a significant oversize situation (bearing/housing) where securing is not necessary according to the tables of international standards! This is a matter of tolerances on which you have to measure into the 1/1000. Bearing has been in the fridge, as well as the crankshaft before installation. Crankcase heated up in the oven. It‘s not the first engine I build. By the way, have a look at the video about pressing in bearings I made. How and when it‘s necessary and when not to secure. It‘s all about the particular situation- therefore you can‘t say in general- that is not reliable and therefore not ok. If you have a worn out case, it‘s different. Bottom line is, you have to know what you have to know what you get. Thanks
What an outstanding, impressive, impecable and overwhelming work of art you have done, CONGRATULATIONS , most kind of you for sharing it with us, please keep up the good work, blessings to you and your love ones, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres.
Hi Jesus Torres. Thanks for your warming words. I‘m happy my video reached you all the way to beautiful Puerto Rico 🇵🇷. It‘s a delight to see you appreciating my work. All the best to you and keep enjoying life.
And thanks for being part of my still growing YT Channel
Did a perfect job of heating the casing, shrinking the bearing etc. Then banged the shaft through the bearing and possibly pitted the bearing races.
Thanks for your comment. The inner bearing ring has been supported backside by a specially for the job manufactured tube to support when pressing the shaft in.It is shown in the end movie if I can recall correctly. What u here is the resonance from a poor press. Thanks
Amazing job. Its hard to grow these days on youtube. but stick with it. Your quality is amazing you will definitely be a bigger channel someday.
Thank you for your comment. Your words did not miss the target. Highly appreciated. I’m glad you like it. Thanks
@@JustbuildTW just glade I found your channel its extremely good.
Schöne saubere Restauration, alles hervorragend ausgeführt, wie neu. 100 Punkte. Nur eine Frage: Der Kupplungsdeckel aus Nachproduktion war Scheixxe, klar, aber der Originale besteht aus Aluminium. Wäre es nicht schöner gewesen, die Löcher mit Aluminium über zu Schweißen bzw. in das große Loch ein ALU-Passstück zu stecken und zu Verschweißen? Die Naht später Beischleifen. Ich habe es damals bei meiner NSU 251 OSL mit dem Seitendeckel auch so gemacht. Danach zum Glätten des Deckels das Prozedere mit dem Kunstharz.
Hallo, danke für deinen Kommentar und das Kompliment. Gute Frage betreffend dem Kupplungsgehäuse-eine heissdiskutiertes Thema. Leider ist es kein Alu, sondern eine Art Gusseisen. Gusseisen lässt sich je nach Werkstoffzusammensetzung zwar schon schweissen, aber es bleibt schwierig wegen dem Silizium, Phosphor und Schwefel. Grundsätzlich habe ich TIG, MIG oder Hartlöten zur Verfügung. Da ich aber nicht genau wusste, was von welchem wieviel vorhanden ist, habe ich mich für einen anderen Weg entschieden. Zudem, ist die Wandstärke bei dieser Glocke dünner als dünn. Ich habe mir überlegt auf dem Abbruch eine Glocke für Testzwecke zu besorgen, um daran das beste Verfahren zu ermitteln. Mal sehen ob ich noch dazu komme😉
@@JustbuildTW Also dann hast du das Beste gemacht, was man(n) machen kann. Der Rest ist "So was von Geil restauriert" Besser geht nicht (zumal die Velosolex nie viel kostete). Heute liegen die knapp unter dem Goldpreis. Mein letztes Projekt war eine alte Zweitakt-Vespa - die wollte ich immer als Junge haben, heute bin ich 70 und habe vor zwei Jahren eine bekommen. War viel Arbeit, aber nun habe ich schon 6000 Km damit gefahren und mein letztes Motorrad (Yamaha 1100 CC) verkauft. ;-)
Nice & perfect work.thankyou.❤
Thank you 🙏 I‘m glad you like it
Are some engine spares available still? It looks like it
Yes, but stick to the original once as much as you can. If possible even get e spare engine from a junkyard. Repro parts are often of bad quality. Good luck
Cela me fait sourire : ce n'est pas un moteur de Formule 1, mais un des moteurs les plus rustiques de la production française. Vitesse maximale 30 km/h, dans un bruit très discret que je n'ai pas entendu dans cette vidéo.
The thing about the noise is true. The discreet noise however is achieved when the whole exhaust is installed. In the movie it is running without. Yesterday I had the first ride on the street and the sound was fantastic or as you say discreet 👍Thanks
@@JustbuildTW J'ai conduit un Vélosolex pour la première fois en avril 1967, le jour de mes 14 ans. Soyez prudent sur les routes mouillées.
What great memories, thanks for sharing👍Yep will do….
That hole needed welding, not pugging up with Ready Brek.
@@chrisenright7003 Thanks for your comment. We discussed this already here. Basically you can weld everything but the existance of silicon, carbon, sulfur and phosphorus within the cast iron in conjunction with the fact, not knowing the exact composition makes the outcome unknown. Telling to weld without welding is easy. On top, the material there is thinner than thin…..which makes it even more challenging. Thanks
It’s time to make a Deltic. Three cylinders, six pistons and three cranks. No cylinder heads no valves. Simple and powerful.
What a masterpiece of engineering, without the help of the computer era
Simple? Have you seen the gear train and the injection system? Not to mention gaining access to the pistons.
They were so complex they had to be removed for overhaul or repair and sent back to Napier.
In locomotives they did far less track damage than steam engines, but they were far more expensive to maintain than straight engines. The "small" Deltic used a 9 cylinder engine, the full power ones used 2 18 cylinder ones. There was never a three cylinder version, the cost of the crank and gearing to drive just three cylinders would have been hopelessly uneconomic.
Nice restoration! Was wondering if JB Weld would've been easier to patch the hole? Or unless it's not available in your country?
Thanks for your comment. Actually JB weld is available over here and it would have been a no brainer with JB. As I used to work in the past a lot with fiber glass and vacuum processing, I had everything available and ready. However, it was/is more work for sure.
@@JustbuildTW Probably cheaper as well! Love all the cool measuring tools!
for sure🤷♂️me too, built to last and highly precise
Precioso vídeo que perfección maravilloso excelente
Thank you very much. I‘m glad you like it.
I was given solex a few months ago, not sure what to do with it as have a fleet of Cyclemasters to work on.
I admire your problem but don’t have a solution for it😉What Solex is it? Selling? From which continent are u coming from? Greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭
Perfect job
Thanks a lot, appreciated.
Ποια ειδικότητα της μηχανολογίας θα μπορούσε να έχεις;... ΧΕΙΡΟΥΡΓΌΣ ΜΗΧΑΝΟΛΟΓΟΣ... μπράβο τέλειο..ΓΙΩΡΓΟΣ από ΕΛΛΑΔΑ
I appreciate your comments! It encourages me to continue. The name "mechanical surgeon" butters up my ego :)
Piece of art.
Thanks 🙏
Bellissimo, complimenti. Gianni
Grazie, sono felice che ti piaccia
Операция прошла успешно 😊
luckily😉
There will be shortly a shorter Video available from the tear down until the finish with less details though
Na verdade já existe eletrodo a arco elétrico, trabalhado só nescecita um pré aquecimento na área soldada muitas vezes pode até ser usinado👍
This a speedway engine?
At its best-high end
Eigentlich braucht es für die Lager und das Einsetzen der Kurbelwelle keine Presse. Gehäuse erwärmen, Lager kalt, fällt das fast von selber rein. Dann das Lager leicht erwärmen und die Kurbelwelle ins Eisfach und auch die Welle fällt in das Lager. Wenn man es macht, wie hier gezeigt, hält das meistens nicht sehr lange.
Danke für deinen Kommentar. Das stimmt so nur leider nicht im Allgemeinen. Je nach Übermass reicht das Wärmen/Kühlen nicht aus. Hier gilt eben dies präzise zum messen bevor einfach gemacht wird. Der Sitz kann jedoch schon abgetragen sein, dann kommst du ohne Presse aus, obwohl du damit auch in diesem Fall nichts kaputt machst. Die Kurbelwelle bekommst du ohne Presse beim Solex nie ins Lager gefügt. Wichtig ist natürlich, den inneren Lagerring beim Einpressen von hinten zu stützen-dafür habe ich einzig eine Hülse gefertigt. Sonst ist das Lager hinüber bevor du das erste Mal um den Weihnachtsbaum fährst. Guck dir das extra Video übers Einpressen von Lagern an. Da werden die Situationen mit Pressen/Kleben, Erwärmen, Kühlen, Messen und deren Toleranzen erklärt. Das allerwichtigste beim Einpressen ist, das alles in der Achse fluchtet, sonst geht der Sitz im nu kaputt. Viel Spass beim Schrauben
Zusatz: Übrigens, das Solex Kurbelgehäuse musste damals bei Lagerschaden/Geräuschen komplett getauscht werden, inkl. Lager und Kurbelwelle da hier mit hohem Übermass des Lagers/Welle gearbeitet wurde. Das ist z.B bei einem Maxi E50 Motor anders.
Danke für die Ausführliche Antwort! Ich hab schon einige Solexmotoren überholt aber wirklich nie eine Presse gebraucht. Auch bei Simson kommt man ohne aus. Wichtig ist das Messen natürlich trotzdem!
Sollte auch keine Kritik sein, kann ja jeder machen wie er meint!
Gerne. Es gibt viele Wege zum Ziel, das ist so. Ist alt schwierig pauschal zu sagen wie es gemacht wird, da jeder Motor immer auch ein Einzelstück ist, vorallem bei älteren Produktionen wo die Massgenauigkeiten noch nicht die selben sind/waren wie heute. Oder aber über die Jahre wurde schon reichlich gemurkst , was die Herangehensweise wieder leicht anders gestaltet. Interessante Diskussion aber auf jeden Fall 👍
well done
Thank you very much
Merci beaucoup pour c'est souvenir
Merci pour le commentaire. Je suis content que ça te plaise. À bientôt
Обычно подшипники коленвала должны быть открыты с двух сторон.Так через них проходит масло к сальникам,иначе они сгорят.Ты не знал об этом?Еще нужно было разобраться,почему не смог собрать с новой крышкой-все измерить,посчитать,где какие шайбы снять или добавить и тд.
That depends on the engine construction and oil lubrication system! Not the case here, as the oil only comes from one side. The other side is completely sealed off anyway. With the closed bearing side you improve the lubrication, as the oil doesn’t spin through. It also widely depends on whether you have the bearing running in an oil bath like on four strokes. Second, I don’t know what you mean with new cover/washers? They are exactly where they need to be and in the right amount as measured to have the things where they need to be.
And by the way, the crankcase seal on this engine doesn’t touch the crankshaft at all, there is no friction at that point, as it seals off on the other side together with the roller (outside of the crankcase), and that part is greased. Not every engine is same same. It takes a lot of time and brainstorming to first understand the engine before you even start touching the first tool. Thanks
@@JustbuildTW Если у тебя в 2Т сальник не смазывается с другой стороны маслом из другого узла,то смазка к нему попадает только со стороны картера,через подшипник.Поэтому он должен быть открытым с двух сторон.
Про крышку-у тебя первая крышка не села до конца,и ты не стал разбираться в причине,просто заменил на старую,которую клеил.
@@JustbuildTW Согласен,в каждой конструкции свои нюансы.Но эти Велосолексы явно создавал наркоман после дозы)).Что двигатель,что карбюратор-это что-невероятное))
As I said, the system is closed on one side and, the seal has no touch to the turning crankshaft, so no lubrication needed there as no friction exists. The roller seals against the seal only for dirt from the roller, but not against oil-that’s the design of the engine. The oil is kept back further up in the housing after a flat seal and the shim before the bearing…..What first lid (minute?)?? I havn’t used any glue and I havn’t used anything old and everything sits where it should as I have measured the depth of each seat. I really recommend you to study the first generation of the velosolex 3800er engine througly to see the details. If you wish, send me a clear drawing of the points your questioning so we talk about the same and I can proof facts. Such details are difficult here. Thanks
by fire up you mean start the engine??
yep 👍
Beau travail
Merci bien.
Incorrect title. It should be "engine assembly" not "build".
True
Hai fatto un lavoro da vero professionista Ma' quel pezzo di fil di ferro sul cavo della candela ha rovinato tutto😂😂😂😂😂👍👍👍👍👍🇮🇹
Thanks for your comment. The little wire that should be there to hold the cable in place is not on the ignition cable itself but there is a sleeve over the cable around that area to make sure that wire never intrudes into the ignition cable itself. It shall be fixed to that little hook with something that doesn‘t meld. In the years back then it was truly fixed with a piece of stainless steel cable. Thanks and all the best.
beau travail mais le cylindre d'un solex n'est jamais peint.
Thanks for your input. Your comment is interesting as I did some research on this at an earlier stage of my project. On most of the leaflets back from the sixties , the solex cylinder seems to be black? I don‘t know whether they had painted them, or if the cast iron was coming with some color additives? Thanks
@@JustbuildTW Les cylindres ainsi que les culasses n'on jamais été peints sur toutes les séries de Solex. Les cylindres sont en fonte brut car a l'époque aucun traitements ne tenais.
El precio esta bien pero lo veo mal rematado. Hay fallos de calidad que se ven a simple vista.
Hi there. Thanks for your comment. What finish are you referring to? Paintjob?
What for?
I guess for minute 36:00
I can’t believe he hadn’t wire locking pliers 🙈
I do have one, but I found it only a day later😉
La vidéo est superbe, mais il y a quelques petites erreurs de montage, aussi les vis platinés de fabrication asiatique de très mauvaise qualité d'une durée de vie très courte.
👍👍👍
🙏
🙏
Poderia ter recuperado na solda tig,enfim gambiarra em ultimo nível 🤦♂️🤦♂️
Thanks for your comment. Since I don't know the exact alloy of the cast iron, it is difficult to define the correct application of the welding process. I assume that the carbon content is too high (>4%) and the weld would not be clean and would therefore become brittle. If I had this information, TIG welding could be considered, but only if the corresponding heat process was followed. Do you know the exact material composition of this engine?
😊
😎
👏👏😍
merci 🙏
complicated to excessive pedantry !!!!
Might be the case for this project! However it‘s more likely to achieve same same results if working on more sophisticated projects as you keep the standard. That‘s how I work. One must not like it.
hahaha.. Funn toys
Indeed….that’s what its all about😉
Click bait video sucks
Yeah unfortunaly it is a gay engine😢
🤔
My first bike , I was twelve in Uruguay
I knew they were spread widely. I didn’t know though, that they also made it all the way to South America-that is 👍 Thanks for the info