Just did this with all of my cables and clamps. The factory clamps were trashed and looked terrible. Now the under hood looks a lot better and cleaner. Thanks for the video. Used your links to get the correct terminal sizes and hydraulic crimper.
I had an issue with my truck a couple of years ago where the truck intermittently would not start. It would turn over but just not start up. I went to different forums and pretty much replaced everything that would cause the problem with no real fix. As a last resort I took it to the dealer. The tech later told me that in troubleshoot the issue he was looking at the voltage going to the sensors and saw that they were not getting the correct voltage. He came to the battery and found corrosion inside the sheath of the positive battery cable. He fix the issue and I haven't had a problem since.
It's funny people watch these videos to learn how to do things that's why it's called DIY and then they have to comment that you're doing something wrong and have suggestions on what you can do differently so do they watch it for DIY or do they watch it to see if you do it wrong so they can correct you LOL I can't understand the world we live in nowadays anyways keep up the good content and pay no mind to those who want to correct and tell you you're wrong thanks again thanks
Yep, well said. Typically when someone points out what I'm doing wrong, I invite them to make a video showing the "right" way. So far no one has done it.
Great video as always. But something that will save your wrist and your side cutter, just cut those cables with a cutoff wheel. Having done hundreds of ground lugs on welders, this is just a much easier way to do this. If of courses you have access to air.
In my line of work we use a nicopress for all different size wiring applications. They will never fail unless there is severe corrosion and or an accident of severe damage. I have a precision coating removal tool as well...just not that size! Aviation requirements are very specific. Is there a lock-washer under the wiring nut to the battery connector? Great instructional video. On the hunt for a 7.3 4WD or a 12 Valve Ram 4WD.
Aviation - yeah, those are some hefty requirements. There is no lock washer under the terminals. The copper to lead mating surface gives just enough "squish" to keep them tight.
Best video! I think I can do it myself! Truck has a battery drain from hell and the cable terminals are worse than yours for my 01! Thanks for your tips! You got a new fan!
Definitely doing this to my excursion when she’s out of the head shop and got her new oil pan! I’m not quite using the race clip yet but the same battery could use one 😂
In Florida's climate my battery cables kept getting corroded until weird crap would start happening or the the cables would get real hot. I ended up spending over 300 bucks and went with oversized, marine grade cables with tinned copper and haven't had a problem with corrosion since. Hell of a price to pay though..
So I've watched this over and over. This is what I've got for parts: 2X of 2AWG for both ends of battery jumper 2X 2/0 AWG for both main grounds 1X 4/0 AWG for the starter I never did catch the glow plug, but I'm guessing 4AWG? The small ground wire is done in a generic ring, so I'm not sure about it either.
WELL HECK! I did it just like this except I bought a different crimper. Long story short is my truck has never started so well! I think those copper lugs are so much more conductive and send all the amps to that starter like they are supposed to. You cannot buy a factory positive cable anymore and so THIS is indeed your only real option and come to find out WAY better than buying a new positive battery harness after market. So if anyone is reading this, the smallest connection that he had to replace is a 6 gauge lug. I wish I would have spent the $60 for the hydraulic crimper because the one I used did a crappy job, they looked like mini bolt cutters but it just did not work well.
My 7.3 is in a 2002 E350 van, and after doing a "van-life" battery & wiring for campsite power/water/lighting I've got the tools & skills, but until seeing your vid I didn't really feel confident about tackling that 21-year-old monster of a wiring harness. The second battery will still be a problem, as it's rail-mounted under the cargo-door steps and you can't get to it without lifting the body and lowering the battery box with a jack. I'll get there somehow, and once I do I'll know what to do next. Thanks!
Hammer crimpers suck and those ends suck. I have been doing it professionally for 40 year and corrected for tons of these. First, use shrink tube to prevent more acid penetration. We take the cables completely out of the vehicle especially ones like this which have surely got voltage drop all over. Blast any good ends clean. The vented batteries and connections like where there will allow acid to wick into wires. So split them open and clean using hot water and baking soda or some other basic solution, the spray cans don't really work well but can pass. Use a tape like duct or several wraps of electrical close the end you wish to cut off the frayed wire and use a cut off wheel on a angle grinder to assure a nice end which makes slipping the right size terminal end on. be sure to slip the shrink needed for the whole cable split and cover the crimp before sliding on the end. Then reseal with shrink tube after crimping an appropriate size terminal. Preferably 1/4" ringlet which will have plenty of meat to contact under the clamp strap unlike this weak ass compression bolt set up. The batteries will have been pulled when removing cables. So route the alternator etc cables now clean the battery trays if they're bad enough I'll pull them, blast and paint with ceramic low gloss. Position your clamps for best access to strap bolts before installing the battery and tighten. Use a spreader not a hammer and be sure they are all the way down. The studs are tapered so make sure they work by placing them all the way down and NO stupid felts on battery lug. Tighten using a 1/4 drive ratchet. Put the terminals you crimped on the cables under the straps and pass the bolts through the ring eye. Last use a good battery protectant either spray on or mop on. Be sure to check the charging system for over voltage boiling the batteries and causing excess vapor. No battery blankets unless you live in a cold climate. Battery operation is best near 80 degrees so think about heat shields if you live in deserts or blankets if you live in cold climate. Hope this helps
Because I'm just a shade tree wrench breaker. I need new wires also. Size and length would be awesome to know, so I could just order everything at once.
Hi great video sir. I have a 2002 f550 which had 7 months old batteries & passanger side battery went completely dead someone told me to replace the cables. As u said it costs outrageously high should i just do what u did will that solve my issue? I had some corrosion on passenger side terminals aswell.
For a reference terminal ends needed everyone: 1x 4/0 2x 2/0 2x #2 and then the little 2 wires Out of curiosity are those two little cables on the passenger side 6 ga or 8 ga? Will edit ^
Great video. Can you tell me how many sets of each of the lugs i need? I just want to order everything correctly. Its for my daughter's truck who doesnt live nearby and want to get everything shipped to her. I will do it for her when i visit. Thanks!!
I left a detailed list of Amazon links, with quantities in the video description box below the video. That should be all you'll need to get the job done. Thank you for watching!!
22:00 hour's 14 April 2024 $ 500.00 F 350 battery cables you covered nothing pertaining to the ground cables, details, straight to the point this is not a lecture class in Votech positive and Negative wiring especially on the engine block.. thank you for your time.
I bought one of those Hydraulic Crimplers, simply because you don't always have a GOOD SOLID anchor behind the hammer version, I have 3 of the hammer type, why? #1 and #2 got lost in the bottom of a tool box, so I bought another one, got pissed and bought the Hydraulic so I could get a cleaner job.
Yeah, I found myself setting the hammer crimper on the radiator support trying to hammer them closed. Gave up and went with the hydraulic one. Much easier.
I did a whole cable replacement on mine, bigger gauge and it was kinda pricey. Was kind of a pain in the ass lol. Nonetheless it is something most of these old trucks need by now. Whats your opinion on the ATS ported turbo housing for stock turbo? I have been considering adding one to my truck
Just did this with all of my cables and clamps. The factory clamps were trashed and looked terrible. Now the under hood looks a lot better and cleaner. Thanks for the video. Used your links to get the correct terminal sizes and hydraulic crimper.
I like the way you take the time to clearly explain what you are doing and why. Including tools and sizes. You video very good also of your work.
Thank you very much!
Thank you. This fixed my truck and no one else could figure out what was wrong. Running strong again!
Great to hear!
I had an issue with my truck a couple of years ago where the truck intermittently would not start. It would turn over but just not start up. I went to different forums and pretty much replaced everything that would cause the problem with no real fix. As a last resort I took it to the dealer. The tech later told me that in troubleshoot the issue he was looking at the voltage going to the sensors and saw that they were not getting the correct voltage. He came to the battery and found corrosion inside the sheath of the positive battery cable. He fix the issue and I haven't had a problem since.
Good info. Thanks!!
Thanks so much for this! My terminals are so bad, and this looks like a simple task.
It's not a bad job at all.
It's funny people watch these videos to learn how to do things that's why it's called DIY and then they have to comment that you're doing something wrong and have suggestions on what you can do differently so do they watch it for DIY or do they watch it to see if you do it wrong so they can correct you LOL I can't understand the world we live in nowadays anyways keep up the good content and pay no mind to those who want to correct and tell you you're wrong thanks again thanks
Yep, well said. Typically when someone points out what I'm doing wrong, I invite them to make a video showing the "right" way. So far no one has done it.
I wish I would have know about this type of battery cable repair years ago. Thanks for this video
Glad to help. It's worked well for us for decades on all types of machinery.
Great video as always. But something that will save your wrist and your side cutter, just cut those cables with a cutoff wheel. Having done hundreds of ground lugs on welders, this is just a much easier way to do this. If of courses you have access to air.
Lol. I learned that a few minutes into this video. Good tip!
14:35 he did.
In my line of work we use a nicopress for all different size wiring applications. They will never fail unless there is severe corrosion and or an accident of severe damage. I have a precision coating removal tool as well...just not that size! Aviation requirements are very specific. Is there a lock-washer under the wiring nut to the battery connector? Great instructional video. On the hunt for a 7.3 4WD or a 12 Valve Ram 4WD.
Aviation - yeah, those are some hefty requirements. There is no lock washer under the terminals. The copper to lead mating surface gives just enough "squish" to keep them tight.
Going to order these..still have the original cable ends from 2001 and want to prevent any future headaches!
This fix works well. We've used it on more heavy equipment than I can ever remember and it's held up great under very bad conditions.
Best video! I think I can do it myself! Truck has a battery drain from hell and the cable terminals are worse than yours for my 01! Thanks for your tips! You got a new fan!
Yeah, this is an easy job and makes a HUGE difference. Welcome aboard!
I 💯% agree with your repair. Looks solid to me. Continuity is continuity brother. Thanks for the links. I guess mine is next 🎉
Right on
Good stuff! Thanks for taking the time to make videos. 🤙🏻
Thanks for watching!
great job thats the first thing i did when i got my 2000 7.3
Thanks!
Definitely doing this to my excursion when she’s out of the head shop and got her new oil pan! I’m not quite using the race clip yet but the same battery could use one 😂
That race clip is really only necessary for drag racing applications.😂
"even before prehistoric times military was using these" 😆
....twas long long ago.
You are right. those Battery cables are expensive, I ended up having to buy them and it costs me around $300 for it
That's actually not as bad as the prices that I've seen.
In Florida's climate my battery cables kept getting corroded until weird crap would start happening or the the cables would get real hot. I ended up spending over 300 bucks and went with oversized, marine grade cables with tinned copper and haven't had a problem with corrosion since. Hell of a price to pay though..
What works works. Glad you got it sorted out.
So I've watched this over and over.
This is what I've got for parts:
2X of 2AWG for both ends of battery jumper
2X 2/0 AWG for both main grounds
1X 4/0 AWG for the starter
I never did catch the glow plug, but I'm guessing 4AWG?
The small ground wire is done in a generic ring, so I'm not sure about it either.
I think you're good.
WELL HECK! I did it just like this except I bought a different crimper. Long story short is my truck has never started so well! I think those copper lugs are so much more conductive and send all the amps to that starter like they are supposed to. You cannot buy a factory positive cable anymore and so THIS is indeed your only real option and come to find out WAY better than buying a new positive battery harness after market. So if anyone is reading this, the smallest connection that he had to replace is a 6 gauge lug. I wish I would have spent the $60 for the hydraulic crimper because the one I used did a crappy job, they looked like mini bolt cutters but it just did not work well.
I had one of those hammer crimpers for a long time, it did a crappy but passable job too. The hydraulic ones are much better no doubt.
My 7.3 is in a 2002 E350 van, and after doing a "van-life" battery & wiring for campsite power/water/lighting I've got the tools & skills, but until seeing your vid I didn't really feel confident about tackling that 21-year-old monster of a wiring harness.
The second battery will still be a problem, as it's rail-mounted under the cargo-door steps and you can't get to it without lifting the body and lowering the battery box with a jack. I'll get there somehow, and once I do I'll know what to do next. Thanks!
You got this!
Vinegar works well for removing corrosion in wires.
Good info!
Hammer crimpers suck and those ends suck. I have been doing it professionally for 40 year and corrected for tons of these. First, use shrink tube to prevent more acid penetration. We take the cables completely out of the vehicle especially ones like this which have surely got voltage drop all over. Blast any good ends clean. The vented batteries and connections like where there will allow acid to wick into wires. So split them open and clean using hot water and baking soda or some other basic solution, the spray cans don't really work well but can pass. Use a tape like duct or several wraps of electrical close the end you wish to cut off the frayed wire and use a cut off wheel on a angle grinder to assure a nice end which makes slipping the right size terminal end on. be sure to slip the shrink needed for the whole cable split and cover the crimp before sliding on the end. Then reseal with shrink tube after crimping an appropriate size terminal. Preferably 1/4" ringlet which will have plenty of meat to contact under the clamp strap unlike this weak ass compression bolt set up. The batteries will have been pulled when removing cables. So route the alternator etc cables now clean the battery trays if they're bad enough I'll pull them, blast and paint with ceramic low gloss. Position your clamps for best access to strap bolts before installing the battery and tighten. Use a spreader not a hammer and be sure they are all the way down. The studs are tapered so make sure they work by placing them all the way down and NO stupid felts on battery lug. Tighten using a 1/4 drive ratchet. Put the terminals you crimped on the cables under the straps and pass the bolts through the ring eye. Last use a good battery protectant either spray on or mop on. Be sure to check the charging system for over voltage boiling the batteries and causing excess vapor. No battery blankets unless you live in a cold climate. Battery operation is best near 80 degrees so think about heat shields if you live in deserts or blankets if you live in cold climate.
Hope this helps
This is great info. THanks!!
Great video just subscribed 👍👍
Thanks, welcome to the crazy train!!!
Because I'm just a shade tree wrench breaker. I need new wires also. Size and length would be awesome to know, so I could just order everything at once.
Hi great video sir. I have a 2002 f550 which had 7 months old batteries & passanger side battery went completely dead someone told me to replace the cables. As u said it costs outrageously high should i just do what u did will that solve my issue? I had some corrosion on passenger side terminals aswell.
Did you use the 1/0 die to crimp the 4/0 cable
Yep.
For a reference terminal ends needed everyone:
1x 4/0
2x 2/0
2x #2
and then the little 2 wires
Out of curiosity are those two little cables on the passenger side 6 ga or 8 ga? Will edit ^
Believe they're 8. Thanks for the reference.
Great video. Can you tell me how many sets of each of the lugs i need? I just want to order everything correctly. Its for my daughter's truck who doesnt live nearby and want to get everything shipped to her. I will do it for her when i visit. Thanks!!
I left a detailed list of Amazon links, with quantities in the video description box below the video. That should be all you'll need to get the job done. Thank you for watching!!
22:00 hour's 14 April 2024 $ 500.00 F 350 battery cables you covered nothing pertaining to the ground cables, details, straight to the point this is not a lecture class in Votech positive and Negative wiring especially on the engine block.. thank you for your time.
Thanks
I bought one of those Hydraulic Crimplers, simply because you don't always have a GOOD SOLID anchor behind the hammer version, I have 3 of the hammer type, why? #1 and #2 got lost in the bottom of a tool box, so I bought another one, got pissed and bought the Hydraulic so I could get a cleaner job.
Yeah, I found myself setting the hammer crimper on the radiator support trying to hammer them closed. Gave up and went with the hydraulic one. Much easier.
I did a whole cable replacement on mine, bigger gauge and it was kinda pricey. Was kind of a pain in the ass lol. Nonetheless it is something most of these old trucks need by now. Whats your opinion on the ATS ported turbo housing for stock turbo? I have been considering adding one to my truck
I haven't had any personal experience with the ATS housing, but I hear good stuff about them.
On the passenger side positive terminal what's that piece called
The big lug on the terminal?
Nice video as alway
Appreciate that
Hi . It's totally off subject, but what is your rim and tire set up on project freedom, the black Ford? thank you
Sure - 35x12.50x20 Toyo Open Country M/T tires with 20x10 Moto Metal wheels
Where did you get your air filter?
I have a video on the channel covering the filter. Amazon link is in there too.
Where are you located looking for a good machine
Sorry, I don't offer any mechanic services.
Those crimps are way too tight. The cheaper hydraulic crimper comes with metric size dies. Temco sells a crimper with awg dies.
Good info.