Painting the hull - Building Bandai's Perfect Grade 1/72 Millennium Falcon Part 4
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- Part 4 of my Bandai Perfect Grade 1/72 scale Millennium Falcon where I build up the docking rings and other bits, then paint the two halves of the hull.
Catch up with previous episodes: • Bandai Perfect Grade 1...
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Music:
U Make Me Feel by MK2
These Bandai model kits really do look the puppy's plums. Nice work dude
Thanks ☺
at this point, once you mask a panel one may use some liquid latex mask (humbrol maskol or the more common winsor & newton art mask fluid) to create paint chips and scratches. (flick it with a toothbrush to spackle) the dried fluid is rubbed away once paint dries leaving the characteristic worn paint rash of the Falcon.
Great job
I remember building the cut away Ertl falcon as a kid. Man they have come a long way with accuracy! Btw Bandai is the best model company in the world.
Excellent
Great help.. Even if you dont have the tools and paints he used.. Thanks a bunch.
It look so cool 👌👌👌👌👌
Thank you 😀
Loving this build and paint, its a gorgeous model and seeing your airbrush techniques are really informative! Cant wait for more!
Thanks!
Wau, beautiful model
with artist oil paint, titanium white is the longest drying paint so it must be something about the properties of white's makeup
Who else thinks that it would have been amazing if bandai went the extra mile and did an entire interior?
Its already a 400 dollar kit. Im afraid to think of what the price would of been if they had done that.
Would you ever consider painting the smaller bits, pipes, bars, etc., before assembly for finer detail and a contrast effect?
I will be for some parts. ☺
This is fantastic to watch. What thinning ration do you use with the Vallejo Model Air Paints?
I don't thin down Model Air paints, they're designed to go straight into the airbrush. :)
Later on if you’re planning on getting it extremely accurate, use a very fine thing brush with thinned acrylic paints for the dirt streaks.
Thanks, that's definitely on my plan. 😁
I think I should also point out the original filming miniature didn't use washes. (Well it did, but only small controlled washes)
But it did use alot of thinned flat black that splattered across the entire model.
So again, if you're going for extremely accurate, the only washes you should be doing is the 'Rust' washes (which in reality is really watered down orange/yellow and tad bit creamy acrylic)
The 5ft millennium falcon used a man with a very good hand in airbrushing for the dirt streaks. In very few areas was a paper or masking used to help with a sharp airbrush line, like Steve Dymzo's tutorial. I only suggested using a fine brush because it's on such a small scale, a brush with very little paint will replicate it almost perfectly.
There are ‘dashes’ across the model, sometimes two dashs, somtimes just one, use a 0.2 - 0.4 mm fineliner pen to do them.
Here's a link to some good reference pictures.
onedrive.live.com/?cid=2562E103EE4C3F24&id=2562E103EE4C3F24%21107
And here's an accurate paint list and close equivalents (To current knowledge until the purists can stop debating and actually tell us what it is)
But I wouldn't go changing yours. It's too much work trying to repaint the panels, and this list wouldn't matter anyway since the studio lights always gave an inconsistent tone on them (Even cooking the paints yellow over the period of 40 years)
Base colour: Spray Laquer Tamiya AS-20 Insignia White (Yours is already darn right spot on)
Vallejo 1/2 White 1/2 Silver Grey, Model Masters 1/2 Classic white 1/2 Camouflage grey
Red: Tamiya XF-07, Vallejo Flat red, Humbrol Insignia Red, Model Masters Insignia red
Light panels/concrete (Just barely off from base): Tamiya Medium grey, Model masters Light sea grey.
Some people did fine with Tamiya deck tan.
Warm dark grey: Model Masters Reefer grey (There is no equivalent sadly) but you can try colour matching, it's very simple colour.
Cool grey: Primer. (apparently, but no one knows which brand) I find tamiya light grey primer a good match. Haven't seen the competitor equivelants.
Yellow panels: Model Masters Reefer yellow (No equivalents) But I have seen people do pretty well by misting tamiya flat yellow.
**Update** Just did a little more research for the yellow. Some people have suggested adding 3 drops of Vallejo neutral grey to reefer yellow to make it a bit more pale (Resembling aerosol enamel MM Chrysler Yellow) because the colour of the reefer yellow was changed a while back. Others have suggested 1:1 of Tamiya yellow green and Tamiya Flat yellow a good mix.
I'd have thought you'd have done a bit of detail on those exposed maintenance panels, or at least a dark wash.
I tried to keep it faithful to the studio model which didn't use any washes.
I really hope for a reply as I am in the painting stages now of my build. You videos are great and very helpful but I didn’t see anything about weathering. What was used specifically as well as if there was a sealer used after weathering. Since this will be the last bit that makes all the difference I’d love to find out these things!!! 😁
I show a bit of the weathering process here: ua-cam.com/video/s_QosiFMKbA/v-deo.html I seal everything in with Vallejo Matt Clear and/or Tamiya Flat Clear (from a can).
Thanks for the tips, the good thing about Bandai models are they also come apart when mistakes are made. I'm new to airbrush painting but not to modelling. Should i be adding a percentage of thinner to the Vallejo colours?
Depends what paint you use. I use Vallejo Model Air which is pre-thinned.
Hope you use lights
Me too!
I was going to ask if you lived on a busy street, but you beat me to it! I have a toddler upstairs from me. He runs back and forth like he's on a playground.
Yep, there's your answer! 😁
Awesome guidance buddy. How much thinners would you use un the base coat?
Cheers! Depends how thick your paint is. You want a milky consistency, enough to get through the airbrush without any issues.
When painting the grey and red panels, how did you deal with masking the little square notches in the panels- did you use a knife to precisely cut out the exact shape of the panel, use masking fluid, etc.?
None of that, I just brush painted back over the notches with the base coat. :)
Are you going to use any of the kit supplied panel decals? Looking great so far!
Thanks! There's dozens of small markings I'll need to apply. But I just didn't like the panel decals because you can see the ink printing on them.
Hi there. I'm a little confused (wouldn't be the first time) about the colours you are using. I'm pretty sure I watched one of your earlier episodes where you were priming, then covering the parts in black and then using Insignia White. Now it doesn't seem that you are pre-shading in black and instead of Insignia White you are using a mixture of White Gray and Aged White. What's changed and what do you therefore recommend? (Apologies if this has been clarified already - it's 1 in the morning and I'm a bit confused about the different versions of the Parts 1 and 2 videos of the PG build which seem to be giving different advice).
They're different builds. The first one I didn't pre-shade black, the second one I did. I recommend going by the first version.
@@modelchili Great, thanks very much indeed for getting back to me so quickly. I'll go without the black shading and use the slightly 'warmer' mix of whites. Having said that, I haven't even got the actual model yet so this conversation is a bit premature but, as they say, "time spent in recce is seldom wasted"! Hope you and your family are well.
Each time you change color, from primer to base coat, do you have to clean the air brush?
Yeah I rinse out the airbrush every time I switch colours.
When switching between paint do you clean out your airbrush every time?
Oh yeah don't want any cross paint contamination!
Can you do an equipment clean or maintenance video? I am new to this hobby and like your videos more than others on UA-cam.
What color yellow was used?
Vallejo Model Air Medium Yellow