I've been sewing for decades, weaving for a few years with the intent of making my own yardage, and just discovered your channel. What a treasure trove! Seriously, the fact that you share your years of knowledge is absolutely the best gift!
Since most of my audience are weavers, I don't reach a large audience. I have about 1300 subscribers, and word of mouth eventually draws more in. Spread the word. I'm glad I made things more clear.
This was one of the most informative videos I have ever seen, It answered so many of my questions that I was too ignorant to know to ask. Thank you so much
I loved the way you explained. English is not my natural Language but I found a lot of beautiful words which let me understand every great idea. I consider this … poetry to sew. Thank you very much . Of course now Im suscribed
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I just heard about your channel on the professional weavers podcast and this is the first video I watched and already I'm stunned. Thank you, thank you.
In handwoven garments that you want to use in hot weather and not fuse, can you stabilize the seam all around with stay tape? I usual use fuse on stay tape on my knits at the shoulders and such but I was wondering if it would work in keeping a garment from growing to much. I live in a warm climate and I would like to find away besides redoing a stretched garment.
I talk about stabilizing the edges in a different video, and I use fusi-knit cut on the crosswise. This won't prevent a garment from growing though. A lot depends on the fiber, sett and structure. Linen for example won't give the way other fibers do, and finer cottons can be pressed pretty flat to prevent growth.
@@daryllancaster9137 thanks. I was just trying to figure out if I can make a cotton pair of pants that would not grow if I didn’t use knit fusible. I wanted to keep the layers down to keep them cool.
Would you treat the cut edges of your fabric ( straight stitch or serge) before you interline or after? I want to make a jacket using deflected doubleweave fabric.
Watch the video for treating the cut edges. Assuming you mean underline not interline, which is adding warmth to the lining, typically I use a fusible underlining first before any stabilizing of cut edges. I did a jacket using deflected doubleweave, and because both sides were pretty cool, I ended up making the jacket reversible, so no underlining. www.daryllancaster.com/Gallery_Images1/SofteningtheEdgesFrontLG.jpg
Hi, If I weave fabric from 100% cotton will it stretch a lot? Also, I get hot very quickly so I am hesitant to line anything- what do you suggest I use if I need to?
This is a bit difficult to answer, because it depends. Cotton as a rule doesn't stretch, but the sett and structure can play into its flexibility, and most handwoven fabrics will give somewhat. Cotton can be aggressively washed, but I don't know what sett you used, what type of cotton, what structure you wove, and most importantly, what silhouette you chose. Not everything needs to be underlined, interlined, or lined. Interfacing is usually only in areas that require extra support, like collars, cuffs, pocket flaps, lapels, etc. If you don't have any of those things in your cotton garment, you wouldn't need interfacing. And unless for some reason the cotton garment was structurally unstable, or very loosely sett, there wouldn't be a need to underline it. If you wanted to put a lining into a cotton garment, a lot would depend on the silhouette, but a very fine cotton lawn could be appropriate to line say, a dress. It wouldn't slip around you like something slippery like silk would, but you would at least be comfortable. Jackets should have something slippery, but you could just do a half lining, across the upper back and sleeves, leaving the body open to breathe better. Or you could line it with a cotton batiste or lawn, and make the sleeves something more slippery.
Great video. I love what you said about the dress you made for Florida. I live in Florida. What interfacings and underlinings do you recommend for hot climates. I have found that the fusi-knit does not breathe and I end up walking around in a sauna...
I don't know of a fusible underlining that would be appropriate for warm climates. I would probably not put a fusible underlining on a garment for Florida. I would just be aware that the piece may grow. Yarns like cotton, cotton/rayon (which is regenerated cellulous) and linen, and combinations thereof, are perfect for warm weather climates. For interfacing specific areas like collars/bands/cuffs, I might mount a thin cotton batiste or silk organza directly to the back of a garment section, using a tailor baste to keep it in place. So a sew-in interfacing instead of a fusible. There is a cotton woven fusible, called Shape-Flex by Pellon, but it doesn't allow the handwoven to give the way the knits do. So I only use it where I need stability, like on the back of bound buttonhole windows.
Thanks Daryl great details-look forward to trying these out. A question-I knitted a long wool sweater coat which is quite heavy and could use some support-any reference for using one of these products in that way? Thanks so much
The Texturized weft fusible I describe was originally designed to stabilize knits and yet keep them lofty and beefy. So if you did use a fusible, that would be the one. But it is really tough to fuse a garment after the fact. And the interfacing side isn't so attractive, typically you would line a garment with a fusible underlining. This is a hard call. I assume the coat is growing? Since it is wool, maybe it could be machine fulled a bit, check out the video on washing your fabric. If you used superwash wool, nothing will happen to it if you put it in the washer and dryer.
I believe the term flatlining is synonymous with Underlining. Since handwoven fabrics tend to give and grow, I find that a traditional sew in underlining isn't ideal, instead I use a fusible underlining which I talk about in this video
I've been sewing for decades, weaving for a few years with the intent of making my own yardage, and just discovered your channel. What a treasure trove! Seriously, the fact that you share your years of knowledge is absolutely the best gift!
This tutorial is very underrated!!! why isn't it getting more views?? Great content!!! thanks for demystifying this for us!!
Since most of my audience are weavers, I don't reach a large audience. I have about 1300 subscribers, and word of mouth eventually draws more in. Spread the word. I'm glad I made things more clear.
Thanks so very much for sharing this important information!❤️❤️❤️
This was one of the most informative videos I have ever seen, It answered so many of my questions that I was too ignorant to know to ask. Thank you so much
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Stunning weaves and beautiful garments.
I loved the way you explained. English is not my natural Language but I found a lot of beautiful words which let me understand every great idea. I consider this … poetry to sew. Thank you very much .
Of course now Im suscribed
Love your jacket
that light blue/pink dress is gorgeous
Thank you!
Thank you for this very important information!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I just heard about your channel on the professional weavers podcast and this is the first video I watched and already I'm stunned. Thank you, thank you.
Welcome aboard!
Wow! What an awesome informative lesson. Well presented and extremely interesting. Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
so excited to find this. i appreciate all your sharing.
So glad!
Thank you:)
In handwoven garments that you want to use in hot weather and not fuse, can you stabilize the seam all around with stay tape? I usual use fuse on stay tape on my knits at the shoulders and such but I was wondering if it would work in keeping a garment from growing to much. I live in a warm climate and I would like to find away besides redoing a stretched garment.
I talk about stabilizing the edges in a different video, and I use fusi-knit cut on the crosswise. This won't prevent a garment from growing though. A lot depends on the fiber, sett and structure. Linen for example won't give the way other fibers do, and finer cottons can be pressed pretty flat to prevent growth.
@@daryllancaster9137 thanks. I was just trying to figure out if I can make a cotton pair of pants that would not grow if I didn’t use knit fusible. I wanted to keep the layers down to keep them cool.
Would you treat the cut edges of your fabric ( straight stitch or serge) before you interline or after? I want to make a jacket using deflected doubleweave fabric.
Watch the video for treating the cut edges. Assuming you mean underline not interline, which is adding warmth to the lining, typically I use a fusible underlining first before any stabilizing of cut edges. I did a jacket using deflected doubleweave, and because both sides were pretty cool, I ended up making the jacket reversible, so no underlining. www.daryllancaster.com/Gallery_Images1/SofteningtheEdgesFrontLG.jpg
Hi, If I weave fabric from 100% cotton will it stretch a lot? Also, I get hot very quickly so I am hesitant to line anything- what do you suggest I use if I need to?
This is a bit difficult to answer, because it depends. Cotton as a rule doesn't stretch, but the sett and structure can play into its flexibility, and most handwoven fabrics will give somewhat. Cotton can be aggressively washed, but I don't know what sett you used, what type of cotton, what structure you wove, and most importantly, what silhouette you chose. Not everything needs to be underlined, interlined, or lined. Interfacing is usually only in areas that require extra support, like collars, cuffs, pocket flaps, lapels, etc. If you don't have any of those things in your cotton garment, you wouldn't need interfacing. And unless for some reason the cotton garment was structurally unstable, or very loosely sett, there wouldn't be a need to underline it. If you wanted to put a lining into a cotton garment, a lot would depend on the silhouette, but a very fine cotton lawn could be appropriate to line say, a dress. It wouldn't slip around you like something slippery like silk would, but you would at least be comfortable. Jackets should have something slippery, but you could just do a half lining, across the upper back and sleeves, leaving the body open to breathe better. Or you could line it with a cotton batiste or lawn, and make the sleeves something more slippery.
Great video. I love what you said about the dress you made for Florida. I live in Florida. What interfacings and underlinings do you recommend for hot climates. I have found that the fusi-knit does not breathe and I end up walking around in a sauna...
I don't know of a fusible underlining that would be appropriate for warm climates. I would probably not put a fusible underlining on a garment for Florida. I would just be aware that the piece may grow. Yarns like cotton, cotton/rayon (which is regenerated cellulous) and linen, and combinations thereof, are perfect for warm weather climates. For interfacing specific areas like collars/bands/cuffs, I might mount a thin cotton batiste or silk organza directly to the back of a garment section, using a tailor baste to keep it in place. So a sew-in interfacing instead of a fusible. There is a cotton woven fusible, called Shape-Flex by Pellon, but it doesn't allow the handwoven to give the way the knits do. So I only use it where I need stability, like on the back of bound buttonhole windows.
@@TheWeaverSews Thank you.
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Thanks Daryl great details-look forward to trying these out. A question-I knitted a long wool sweater coat which is quite heavy and could use some support-any reference for using one of these products in that way? Thanks so much
The Texturized weft fusible I describe was originally designed to stabilize knits and yet keep them lofty and beefy. So if you did use a fusible, that would be the one. But it is really tough to fuse a garment after the fact. And the interfacing side isn't so attractive, typically you would line a garment with a fusible underlining. This is a hard call. I assume the coat is growing? Since it is wool, maybe it could be machine fulled a bit, check out the video on washing your fabric. If you used superwash wool, nothing will happen to it if you put it in the washer and dryer.
Have you ever done flatlining? I’m exploring historical techniques, and I think that is one that would work for many handwoven fabrics.
I believe the term flatlining is synonymous with Underlining. Since handwoven fabrics tend to give and grow, I find that a traditional sew in underlining isn't ideal, instead I use a fusible underlining which I talk about in this video
I don't like fusible