Andy O one is for the inlet and one for the outlet of the single tank. he said it’s older so it’s probably a single 1,000 gallon concrete tank. inlet is where pipe comes from the house and outlet is where the effluent (liquids) go out into the Distribution box then out into the leach field.
Why did they put such big concrete lids on those tanks? My tank has 12 inch lids. I'm keeping them also after installing new risers. Why not, it seals better and doesn't hurt a thing.
I just discarded my concrete lids and used the riser and the riser cover. I also placed the riser cover in and placed concrete around the otter edge of the riser, plumbers putty doesn't seem as if its gonna last and dirt and water will get in.
I got an estimate from a company to install the risers so I went online and found your video. Guess how much I'll be saving from your video? It'll be at least $500!! Thank you !!!
I asked a septic company and they quoted $1500. I think $500 is ok if they are using the aero-stream product whose material cost along is $400. But if they are using a cheap $50 riser from Amazon, then forget it.
This is an interesting concept. Would it be possible to start with a wider-diameter hole and cylindrical barrier so that the concrete tank lid no longer needs reshaping?
besides safety issues, and the one big mistake, should have picked up a cement bag and made some basic play doe with it and filled the corners correctly with a little SS 1/2" mesh and then around the entire riser to help seal out contaminates as well as keep contaminates in. the SS mesh will help it all hold together. Not to late it still can be done :)
Mine is about 30" down and its 2' across. If I leave the concrete lid in and put in a riser that's 26" diameter it would be almost impossible to lift the concrete lid out without a lot of grief. I'm for leaving the cover off and fastening down the riser cover. If the cover doesn't have a seal I'll use bees' wax or electrical putty.
It's been recommended to me that the bottom of the riser should be sealed to the top of the septic tank using hydraulic cement. Problem is the hydraulic cement the local HD sells has a 2-3 minute working time. I don't think this is enough time for me to lay down a 2' diameter bed of hydraulic cement, set the riser in it, and smooth out the inside and outside edges of the hydraulic cement, which was also recommended to me.
I thought the whole point of the riser was to do away with the concrete lids when I was running septic tank service when I found out the customer had risers I was jumping for joy if I come to this house and I saw risers and then I looked in and saw still had the pool concrete lids I'd be pissed lol 😂
I’m thinking about doing this. I don’t think I will use the concrete lid. I might keep it for awhile just to make sure no odor. Looks a little tricky getting your concrete lid through that riser, but if works ok, then that is great.
Without a water tight interface between the concrete of the septic tank and the riser you are going to have all kinds of problems with frost lifting the riser, water and silt incursion. It's good to try and save money, but it's got to be done in an effective way. And get rid of the concrete lids, closing the riser off with a proper (light) lid.
I know this is a old video but i have just seen it. I live in central Ontario and we get cold snow and lots of frozen ground. So i have been told that i need to insulate the riser lids to prevent the septic tank from Freezing? i cant say i understand that when the tank is at the same height as the cement lids ? with only a few inches of dirt keeping it from freezing. Whats your thought and where are you located? Weathr wise
That price is outrageous! Likely a scam! Suggest you inquire with a plumbing supplier on the cost for the riser parts. It was less than $100 for me. Our septic system, including my risers were recently inspected by a certified septic inspector, as is required every three years in Clallam County, Washington. It passed!
@@randallwingett thank you I am in Pierce county WA so the price shouldn’t be that much different. I searched for risers for 27 inches or more but I can only find ones in Home Depot asking for $400. It does look nice but the price is so expensive.
@@joseb1693 If you are willing to pay big bucks, you can pretty much find lots of installers. If you want to save money and don't want to break your back, you may consider hiring a contractor to just dig it up for you, and do the rest of the installation yourself. Overall, I think they charge a lot because the potential liability is high.
Depends on the geology and soil type. Our house is built on a sandy ridge left by glacial deposits called a moraine. Water quickly disappears into the soil, which is perfect for a septic drain field, but terrible for gardens. And our septic tanks and drainage rate has been inspected and tested four times in the seven years that we have lived here, and each time it has passed without having to pump it out. Although mortaring the riser to the tank opening has been suggested, it is not required and has not been an issue because there is never any standing surface water in our yard. Thank you for your comment!
Those riser kits are ridiculously expensive. My tank is 24" below the surface. As shallow as yours is I would just leave it be, bury and and unburry it as needed.
So in order to access the tank you would have to lift the concert lid which would mess up the putty that you had to put in without the riser. Things just seem a little Jerry rigged.
Ehhhh I installed a riser kit for my sump tank, my replacement septic tank had risers meant for it already. Well I purchased a square base and simply took the old square lids and chunked them. No way would I botch up my system like that. Good idea but poor implementation.
Why are you putting the riser over the concrete lid? The purpose of the riser is to make pumping out of the tank easier. The concrete lid is supposed to be discarded.
I hope you’ve had chance to fix your mistakes you have made. I’m glad you want to help others but you really should have a better handle on the project that you are trying to help others with. Thanks and be safe out there
I sometimes hate seeing criticism of youtube videos. You know, after all, he took the time to make and edit it. But yeah, if you are going to tell someone how to do it you should have half a clue. He goes to chip the concrete and is surprised. Did he explain why he can't get a larger diameter tube? He's got spotless blue jeans, gloves that are 2 sizes to big. A perfectly square hole with no dirt in the grass. Umm, I have to be nice.....
The house was built in 1978, so the tanks are approximately 43 years old. Our septic system was recently inspected, three years after I installed the risers and it passed! Septic systems must be inspected every three years in Clallam County. Thank you for your comment!
I agree he didn't do hardly anything correctly but did you guys hear him say "so what they recommended I do is just break of the edges of the lid with a hammer" that means a "professional" or the place he bought the risers told him this. Pretty sad.. However NOW THAT I THINK ABOUT IT. if he's going to be jumping on the riser lids it's a good thing the concrete lids are in there to catch him 😆
Willa Herrera, thank you for your humorous comment! Several months after installing the risers, a local professional septic system plumber told me that I do not need the concrete lids. So, I removed them, buried them in my new gravel RV pad, and we still have no unpleasant odors from the risers! Thanks for watching my video and commenting!
And this is why you get a professional to do it. You should have a base for the riser to attach to and you done need the concrete lids put back on... This is done incorrectly.
Are you a professional? I should have said in this video that you should check the local codes before proceeding. The advice we got from two licensed septic inspectors was that this (no mortar) is acceptable given the sandy soil and fast absorption of water. Worst case, dirt, sand and rain watery will gradually infiltrate and fill the septic clean-out chambers. That said, we will soon know the answer when the County’s mandatory 3-year inspection is done late 2020. Thank you for your comment!
This is funny. Let’s make risers but not make its diameter large enough to accommodate all septic tanks concrete lids. So just damage your existing tanks lid....
You are right. After a year passed with no issues, I removed the concrete lids and buried them. When our septic tanks were inspected 4 years after the first inspection when we bought our house, they found no problems. Thank you for your comment!
This approach is not a good one. The riser should be sealed to the top of the tank and the lid become unnecessary/redundant. The lids in question are oversized in comparison with most tank lids and shallowly placed and the lack of corners will allow gases to escape and dirt and extraneous water to enter. There are better DIY videos available. Likely the poster did not buy the complete kit.
Ignore these negative comments, I appreciate you taking the time and energy to make this video to share. Thank you, you guys seem like very nice people.
Silly putty that is 😀! I threw away the concrete lids (buried in my yard). Last I checked, the putty was gone, but the sandy earth had not infiltrated the septic tank. And the results of the most recent inspection, all is good! Bottom line (pun intended), every septic system is different. Thank you for watching and for your comment!
You've totally done that all wrong there's a square flange that fits down over the square hole and then that round riser snaps onto that and you use a it looks like an adhesive like you would use on a car windshield it goes around that and everything snaps into place and then there's a lid for the riser I don't know what the hell you're doing but you didn't put your flange down over your septic tank hole and seal it and tap it with a concrete bit and screw it down and then put your riser on top of that you did none of that you just put the riser right on top of the tank that's not going to work dude that's not a good way to install that I'm sorry you can buy the whole kit but that right there you're doing I've never seen it done like that that just totally defeats the purpose you're supposed to get rid of that concrete lid
Wow! Take a breath and end a sentence or two! I agree, this is not the recommended procedure. But, the soil on our property is all sand deposited during the glacial period, so rain water, or irrigation water vanishes quickly into the depths. We live in the rain shadow too. Bottom line, the solution depends on many factors that differ depending on the geography. This works for us, as confirmed by the three year mandated septic inspection. Thank you for your comment and for watching my video!
This video has a very bad case of youtuber-itis, meaning who provide videos who have no clue what they are doing. Logic and reason has completed failed this individual in every possible context. This is what I would label redundant mediocrity.
You need a transition piece called an adapter ring, that you attach to the tank then the riser attaches to.
I commend u for getting out and doing the work, people go easy on the guy he's trying.
There's no need to have two Lids. Just use the riser's sealed lid and throw the concrete Lids away.
Andy O one is for the inlet and one for the outlet of the single tank. he said it’s older so it’s probably a single 1,000 gallon concrete tank. inlet is where pipe comes from the house and outlet is where the effluent (liquids) go out into the Distribution box then out into the leach field.
@@lh98 I believe what septicguy was suggesting was to get ride of the concrete lid he chipped away at and only use the lid that cane with the riser.
Doesn't that depend on how cold your climate is?
Why did they put such big concrete lids on those tanks? My tank has 12 inch lids. I'm keeping them also after installing new risers. Why not, it seals better and doesn't hurt a thing.
I just discarded my concrete lids and used the riser and the riser cover. I also placed the riser cover in and placed concrete around the otter edge of the riser, plumbers putty doesn't seem as if its gonna last and dirt and water will get in.
Good job. Where can I get these exact risers, and what was your total cost.
I got an estimate from a company to install the risers so I went online and found your video. Guess how much I'll be saving from your video? It'll be at least $500!! Thank you !!!
I asked a septic company and they quoted $1500. I think $500 is ok if they are using the aero-stream product whose material cost along is $400. But if they are using a cheap $50 riser from Amazon, then forget it.
This is an interesting concept. Would it be possible to start with a wider-diameter hole and cylindrical barrier so that the concrete tank lid no longer needs reshaping?
Why not buy a wider riser?
If there is a good seal between the riser and the tank, there is no need to have the concrete lid once the riser lid is on
besides safety issues, and the one big mistake, should have picked up a cement bag and made some basic play doe with it and filled the corners correctly with a little SS 1/2" mesh and then around the entire riser to help seal out contaminates as well as keep contaminates in. the SS mesh will help it all hold together. Not to late it still can be done :)
Had someone install risers,ended up being to high can it be cut off to ground level
Yes, jut get down there and use a Sawzall and cut away.
I just found my concrete tank buried 5 feet under limestone. I'm definitely getting some risers
Mine is about 30" down and its 2' across. If I leave the concrete lid in and put in a riser that's 26" diameter it would be almost impossible to lift the concrete lid out without a lot of grief. I'm for leaving the cover off and fastening down the riser cover. If the cover doesn't have a seal I'll use bees' wax or electrical putty.
And that’s how you fit a square peg into a round hole.
Excellent idea to keep the concrete lids in place. Will keep down the odours and can be lifted out with a rope on inspection.
Rounding the lid could leave for space for gas to escape and build in riser and smell near the tank?
One doesn't want water going in either.
Don’t they make square shaped risers? Or round shaped covers? 😅
It's been recommended to me that the bottom of the riser should be sealed to the top of the septic tank using hydraulic cement. Problem is the hydraulic cement the local HD sells has a 2-3 minute working time. I don't think this is enough time for me to lay down a 2' diameter bed of hydraulic cement, set the riser in it, and smooth out the inside and outside edges of the hydraulic cement, which was also recommended to me.
@@mlamita i
I thought the whole point of the riser was to do away with the concrete lids when I was running septic tank service when I found out the customer had risers I was jumping for joy if I come to this house and I saw risers and then I looked in and saw still had the pool concrete lids I'd be pissed lol 😂
Yeah, after we realized there was no odor, I buried the concrete lids under 4 tons of gravel. Thanks for your comment!
I’m thinking about doing this. I don’t think I will use the concrete lid. I might keep it for awhile just to make sure no odor. Looks a little tricky getting your concrete lid through that riser, but if works ok, then that is great.
Without a water tight interface between the concrete of the septic tank and the riser you are going to have all kinds of problems with frost lifting the riser, water and silt incursion. It's good to try and save money, but it's got to be done in an effective way. And get rid of the concrete lids, closing the riser off with a proper (light) lid.
Who is the manufacturer of your risers? I can’t find that style.
He seems like such a well intentioned nice guy but by God there has to be a better way to do this!
Please pass the cold chisel on those corners.
Rube Goldberg Septic Repair...
You don't need the concrete lid, if you install the riser & cover properly.
I know this is a old video but i have just seen it. I live in central Ontario and we get cold snow and lots of frozen ground. So i have been told that i need to insulate the riser lids to prevent the septic tank from Freezing? i cant say i understand that when the tank is at the same height as the cement lids ? with only a few inches of dirt keeping it from freezing. Whats your thought and where are you located? Weathr wise
Do you own a saw ht you could put a masonry blade in?
Thanks Randall! Great video.
Thank you. I called a septic pumping company and they said they charge $1500 per riser installation. I was pretty shocked about the price.
That price is outrageous! Likely a scam! Suggest you inquire with a plumbing supplier on the cost for the riser parts. It was less than $100 for me. Our septic system, including my risers were recently inspected by a certified septic inspector, as is required every three years in Clallam County, Washington. It passed!
@@randallwingett thank you I am in Pierce county WA so the price shouldn’t be that much different. I searched for risers for 27 inches or more but I can only find ones in Home Depot asking for $400. It does look nice but the price is so expensive.
@@zehuazhou3390 im in puyallup wa have you find raisers in the area? Im also looking for 2 raisers
@@joseb1693 If you are willing to pay big bucks, you can pretty much find lots of installers. If you want to save money and don't want to break your back, you may consider hiring a contractor to just dig it up for you, and do the rest of the installation yourself. Overall, I think they charge a lot because the potential liability is high.
You need a starter ring for the riser and seal it with butyl seal tape to the tank.
Depends on the geology and soil type. Our house is built on a sandy ridge left by glacial deposits called a moraine. Water quickly disappears into the soil, which is perfect for a septic drain field, but terrible for gardens. And our septic tanks and drainage rate has been inspected and tested four times in the seven years that we have lived here, and each time it has passed without having to pump it out. Although mortaring the riser to the tank opening has been suggested, it is not required and has not been an issue because there is never any standing surface water in our yard. Thank you for your comment!
Thanks, would you be able to tell us where you got your riser and lids?
Online..
Those riser kits are ridiculously expensive. My tank is 24" below the surface. As shallow as yours is I would just leave it be, bury and and unburry it as needed.
You are right ! $400 + for some of these, ridiculous.
So in order to access the tank you would have to lift the concert lid which would mess up the putty that you had to put in without the riser. Things just seem a little Jerry rigged.
holy moly. wow just wow
I used white 5 gallon buckets,perfect look and size easy to locate and mow over
You don't need the concrete lid anymore just get rid of it use the Riser lid.
Only good if you use an adapter and seal it to the tank with tar and tap cons or epoxy.
Ehhhh I installed a riser kit for my sump tank, my replacement septic tank had risers meant for it already. Well I purchased a square base and simply took the old square lids and chunked them. No way would I botch up my system like that. Good idea but poor implementation.
Why are you putting the riser over the concrete lid? The purpose of the riser is to make pumping out of the tank easier. The concrete lid is supposed to be discarded.
I hope you’ve had chance to fix your mistakes you have made.
I’m glad you want to help others but you really should have a better handle on the project that you are trying to help others with.
Thanks and be safe out there
I sometimes hate seeing criticism of youtube videos. You know, after all, he took the time to make and edit it. But yeah, if you are going to tell someone how to do it you should have half a clue. He goes to chip the concrete and is surprised. Did he explain why he can't get a larger diameter tube? He's got spotless blue jeans, gloves that are 2 sizes to big. A perfectly square hole with no dirt in the grass. Umm, I have to be nice.....
Will there be a pond at this property?
I fell like I'm watching a primitive Pete video from the school days 😂
You should have never bought those you should have just dug the holes at like you did and built a big wishing well
They could make it a lot easier by making square risers.. just saying this is a bit much and way too expensive for what you get.
plumbers putty and concrete pieces do not go through the old pump very well.......keep it clean and this works ok...
How old was this tank?
The house was built in 1978, so the tanks are approximately 43 years old. Our septic system was recently inspected, three years after I installed the risers and it passed! Septic systems must be inspected every three years in Clallam County. Thank you for your comment!
You did not mortar in the riser like he told you, this job sucks never jump or stand on lid
Wrong. Don't need the concrete lid, use the right plastic seal with double tape between that and the concrete.
I agree he didn't do hardly anything correctly but did you guys hear him say "so what they recommended I do is just break of the edges of the lid with a hammer" that means a "professional" or the place he bought the risers told him this. Pretty sad.. However NOW THAT I THINK ABOUT IT. if he's going to be jumping on the riser lids it's a good thing the concrete lids are in there to catch him 😆
Willa Herrera, thank you for your humorous comment! Several months after installing the risers, a local professional septic system plumber told me that I do not need the concrete lids. So, I removed them, buried them in my new gravel RV pad, and we still have no unpleasant odors from the risers! Thanks for watching my video and commenting!
Don"t need the covers any more! thats the point of the man hole cover.
Now when it's time to get serviced the puddy will fall in😳😳😳😥😥😥🤔🤔🤔😔😔😔😔
And this is why you get a professional to do it. You should have a base for the riser to attach to and you done need the concrete lids put back on... This is done incorrectly.
Are you a professional? I should have said in this video that you should check the local codes before proceeding. The advice we got from two licensed septic inspectors was that this (no mortar) is acceptable given the sandy soil and fast absorption of water. Worst case, dirt, sand and rain watery will gradually infiltrate and fill the septic clean-out chambers. That said, we will soon know the answer when the County’s mandatory 3-year inspection is done late 2020. Thank you for your comment!
No, no, no! Just NO!
This is funny. Let’s make risers but not make its diameter large enough to accommodate all septic tanks concrete lids. So just damage your existing tanks lid....
ROFL, YEP as he was doing that i kept shaking my head what a brain fart.. he will certainly be getting dirt and rain in his tank now... unbelievable
That's why you use a base for the riser
This is not the right way for o install a riser
Good idea but you might be making your life more difficult keeping the concrete lids.
You are right. After a year passed with no issues, I removed the concrete lids and buried them. When our septic tanks were inspected 4 years after the first inspection when we bought our house, they found no problems. Thank you for your comment!
This guy has 46k subs so he must be doing something right?
Awesome. It's what I need to do now🙄
This approach is not a good one. The riser should be sealed to the top of the tank and the lid become unnecessary/redundant. The lids in question are oversized in comparison with most tank lids and shallowly placed and the lack of corners will allow gases to escape and dirt and extraneous water to enter. There are better DIY videos available. Likely the poster did not buy the complete kit.
This was a lot of work for no good reason. Two lids? What for? And plumbers putty... lol
Ignore these negative comments, I appreciate you taking the time and energy to make this video to share. Thank you, you guys seem like very nice people.
Uggg. Ok. Chip extra then get plastic bags press around the lid and drop concrete. Dude…. Seriously putty?
Silly putty that is 😀! I threw away the concrete lids (buried in my yard). Last I checked, the putty was gone, but the sandy earth had not infiltrated the septic tank. And the results of the most recent inspection, all is good! Bottom line (pun intended), every septic system is different. Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Should of bought a bigger pipe, jesus
LOL
You've totally done that all wrong there's a square flange that fits down over the square hole and then that round riser snaps onto that and you use a it looks like an adhesive like you would use on a car windshield it goes around that and everything snaps into place and then there's a lid for the riser I don't know what the hell you're doing but you didn't put your flange down over your septic tank hole and seal it and tap it with a concrete bit and screw it down and then put your riser on top of that you did none of that you just put the riser right on top of the tank that's not going to work dude that's not a good way to install that I'm sorry you can buy the whole kit but that right there you're doing I've never seen it done like that that just totally defeats the purpose you're supposed to get rid of that concrete lid
Wow! Take a breath and end a sentence or two! I agree, this is not the recommended procedure. But, the soil on our property is all sand deposited during the glacial period, so rain water, or irrigation water vanishes quickly into the depths. We live in the rain shadow too. Bottom line, the solution depends on many factors that differ depending on the geography. This works for us, as confirmed by the three year mandated septic inspection.
Thank you for your comment and for watching my video!
Seriously? ,🙄
No no no. Do not do this. It's not the right way to do things.
This video has a very bad case of youtuber-itis, meaning who provide videos who have no clue what they are doing. Logic and reason has completed failed this individual in every possible context. This is what I would label redundant mediocrity.